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Old 12-10-2013, 02:40 PM   #1
ElkMaster78
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Default Building a meat cutting room

We are building a meat cutting room at my father in laws farm. It will be connected to the walk-in cooler. Room will be 12'x16'. I could use some ideas and pictures of how others have laid theirs out.
Thanks
Tony

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Old 12-10-2013, 07:52 PM   #2
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Mine looks a lot like a dinning room table. Some day I would like to have a dedicated butcher room. I hope you post pics when your done.
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Old 12-10-2013, 08:59 PM   #3
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Drain in floor-Either tie into sewer/septic, or drain into own holding tanks and have them drain into yard
Waterproof panels on walls
Water heater
Stainless tables, sinks yada yada
Shelving for necessary tools. There is a lot of this necessary
Keep the smokers, freezers and fridges out of the work space 12x16 aint very roomy once it is full of stuff.
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Old 12-10-2013, 09:08 PM   #4
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Default Re: Building a meat cutting room

I have a man cave that doubles for the meat cutting room. My father-in-law who is practically blind built me a cutting table that is on rollers that is 30" wide by 73" long and the important part 36" tall. The work surface must be high enough so you work with slightly down from 90 degree bent arms. If the table is to low you will get back pain. Your table height may vary due to your height.

The table has room in the middle on both sides to use a tall bar stool if one needs to sit. It also has three drawers down one end. It is nice because I can shove it against a wall when not in use, but when in use there can be a person on each side/ end. The one draw back or addition I would make is for the grinder, it needs to sit on a shelf about a foot lower. Sitting on my cutting table it is a bit tall. He laminated the top and edges, amazing job considering he can't see to read, but being a finish carpenter all his life he has skills.

My room has concrete floors. I have a sliding meat hooks outside the man cave, but would have been nice to extend them into the cutting area.
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Old 12-10-2013, 09:30 PM   #5
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Default Re: Building a meat cutting room

Along the theme of "hosing it down when done"......vinyl wall panels, center floor drain, ss rolling tables & work surfaces, and I would suggest plug outlets be wired to hang from ceiling in weatherproof boxes w/ weatherproof covers. I say this because it keeps cords off the floor & helps w/ hosing down the room w/ a pressure washer & bleach when done butchering.
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Old 12-10-2013, 09:34 PM   #6
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That sounds like a really cool room you got there Rank. Very nice gift from your Father in law.
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Old 12-11-2013, 07:40 AM   #7
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I would recommend a cutting table (I like the taller height idea) with a removable top made out of UHMW. The UHMW won't be cheap, but it is better on your blades and can be sanitized. A steel table frame that's been galvinized or made from stainless would be ideal.
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Old 12-11-2013, 07:59 AM   #8
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Rubber matts to stand on. Look behind the bar or grill at the better establishments....

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Old 12-11-2013, 08:19 AM   #9
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Default Re: Building a meat cutting room

FRP is the wall material, can be purchased at big box lumber stores. Glue right over green (water resistant) sheetrock. Must be nice to have the space and meat to need one.
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Old 12-11-2013, 08:46 AM   #10
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Default Re: Building a meat cutting room

Thanks for all the ideas. I was trying to figure out what I could put on the walls that would be water proof. I was looking at stainless sheets but that was crazy price. I will tell him about the FRP material. I hadn't thought about having the plug outlets hang from the ceiling, great idea.
Thanks again and keep the ideas flowing.
Tony
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Old 12-11-2013, 08:54 AM   #11
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Default Re: Building a meat cutting room

Quote:
Originally Posted by samntrllr View Post
FRP is the wall material, can be purchased at big box lumber stores. Glue right over green (water resistant) sheetrock. Must be nice to have the space and meat to need one.
Yep, FRP (fiberglass reinforced polymer) is the stuff for the walls and ceiling.
FRP-specific trim and fasteners are available too.

Epoxy coated floor and cove base for the deluxe version.

Drain to sewer or septic not rain drain or yard.
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Old 12-11-2013, 09:05 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by samntrllr View Post
FRP is the wall material, can be purchased at big box lumber stores. Glue right over green (water resistant) sheetrock. Must be nice to have the space and meat to need one.
Do NOT use FRP over sheetrock. Use cheap 1/2" plywood, not OSB. Plywood will give you something for the rivets to get a hold of. If you go with FRP, do it right and buy the plastic rivets, dividers, and corners (all plastic). Before you start, stack all the sheets across some 2x4's spanning saw horses. Lay out a grid with a chalk line and drill all your holes at one time with a 1/4" bit. Now you have all your holes evenly spaced, lined up and looking like a profesional did the job. No adhesive is needed. Place a sheet in place and drill through the holes that you have already made, right into the plywood covered walls. The plywood backing is plenty for the rivets to hold onto, so you don't need to worry about trying to hit studds. Poke a rivets in the holes and tap them in with a hammer. Simple stuff that will out last you, and still look great. If you ever want to take it down when you move, all you do is drill out the rivets and it comes right off---no mess, no fuss. Simply buy new rivets and install it in your new cutting room. White is also recommended over the tan color. It just gives you more light.

One other thought is lighting. I would highly recommend that if you use flurecent bulbs, that you either buy the plastic/safety coated bulbs or buy fixtures with plastic covers. One broken bulb over the top of a table full of meat, will pretty much ruin your day---and all the meat. I know what your thinking---when was the last time I broke a bulb---believe me these things have a way of happening at the worst possible time. Usually when you are swinging around a carcass on a rail.
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Old 12-11-2013, 09:17 AM   #13
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Default Re: Building a meat cutting room

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Originally Posted by ajfishfinder View Post
Do NOT use FRP over sheetrock. Use cheap 1/2" plywood, not pressed wood. Plywood will give you something for the rivets to get a hold of. If you go with FRP, do it right and buy the plastic rivets, dividers, and corners (all plastic). Before you start, stack all the sheets across some 2x4's spanning saw horses. Lay out a grid with a chalk line and drill all your holes at one time with a 1/4" bit. Now you have all your holes evenly spaced, lined up and looking like a profesional did the job. No adhesive is needed. Place a sheet in place and drill through the holes that you have made into the plywood. Poke a rivet in the hole and tap it in with a hammer. Simple stuff that will out last you, and still look great. White is also recommended over the tan color. It just gives you more light.

One other thought is lighting. I would highly recommend that if you use flurecent bulbs, that you either buy the plastic/safety coated bulbs or buy fixtures with plastic covers. One broken bulb over the top of a table full of meat, will pretty much ruin your day---and all the meat. I know what your thinking---when was the last time I broke a bulb---believe me these things have a way of happening at the worst possible time. Usually when you are swinging around a carcass on a rail.
FRP is installed over sheetrock in every food prep or sanitary area that I've worked in. And that would be many.
You want to limit/avoid your use of rivets because for every rivet there is a penetration through the system.

No problem installing FRP over plywood as long as fire-ratings (if any) are satisfied.
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Old 12-11-2013, 09:40 AM   #14
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Do NOT use FRP over sheetrock. Use cheap 1/2" plywood, not OSB. Plywood will give you something for the rivets to get a hold of.
Green sheetrock isn't your typical sheetrock. It is essentially fiber reinforced concrete I think. It is typically used for bathrooms and such where you want it waterproof. It has plenty of grip for ANYTHING you want to mount to it. Install the FRP over any kind of wood and you are asking for long term trouble with rot if there is any leak at all. The green rock will prevent that.
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Old 12-11-2013, 10:36 AM   #15
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Yeah FRP panels... that's what I was talking about.

I like UHMW surfaces as well, but only as cutting surfaces, cutting boards if you will.
They clean up easily and I just put mine in the dishwasher.

I do have to wonder is a couple 6ft plastic folding tables would serve just as well as expensive SS tables. At least as Phase 1 to the project.

Room should also have a big SS commercial kitchen sink on one wall.
Access to clean hot & cold water for cleaning meat, tools, bowls, grinders, etc is a must.

On the outlets......
Here's an image of outlets that pull down. I'm assuming they are on cord retractors that are above the ceiling. Although not necessary, it would be nice to have adjustable cord lengths.
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Example of retractable suspended power outlets

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Old 12-11-2013, 11:20 AM   #16
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Default Re: Building a meat cutting room

Reading all this makes me want to go out and build me a meat butchering room. Lots of great ideas.
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Old 12-11-2013, 11:24 AM   #17
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GFCI on those outlets.

Rapid start fluorescent lights are nice for unheated areas.


My standard fluorescents are so annoyingly lacking on these cold days.
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Old 12-11-2013, 04:01 PM   #18
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I agree with DirectDrive. Used consistently in food service/kitchen commercial installations. Could never recommend drilling so many holes in
a water resistant wall. If it was preferable I would have seen it.
As far as plugs, why not use exterior covers with spring loaded caps just like you use outside. Like stated, make sure you get a good seal at point of contact with floor.
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Old 12-11-2013, 04:26 PM   #19
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Thanks for all the help. I will keep this thread going as we build the room.
Tony
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Old 12-11-2013, 05:11 PM   #20
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Default Re: Building a meat cutting room

I don't have one but would like to build a hanging/cutting room at some point and always envisioned a concrete floor with a drain and cinder block walls. This would keep the inside cool and it could be hosed down as much as you like.

Just my 2 cents
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Old 12-11-2013, 05:21 PM   #21
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IF YOU BUILD IT, MEAT WILL COME.... My luck/skill the last 2 years, it would be a waste of time.
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Old 12-11-2013, 06:15 PM   #22
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There is red guard you can roll on with a roller as a waterproof membrane. I think I would do tile floor with drain in the middle and 4' of tile on the wall for easy hosing off. Plus tile stays cool.
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Old 12-11-2013, 06:21 PM   #23
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see re-runs of Dexter
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Old 12-11-2013, 06:33 PM   #24
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Make your tables tall & sturdy!

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Old 12-12-2013, 09:45 PM   #25
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[IMG]http://img.tapatalk.com/d/
Did someone say FRP, this one has frp over plywood with 12" of cement bd on bottom. Still
Have some work to do
But almost done.


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Old 12-12-2013, 09:46 PM   #26
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Old 12-13-2013, 06:42 AM   #27
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Default Re: Building a meat cutting room

I like this design.. Floor sloped to the middle, with large drain in the middle.

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Old 12-13-2013, 08:42 AM   #28
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just off our walk in cooler in the meat cutting area we also have an area dedicated to the processing and wrapping. A grinder, cuber and wrapping paper dispenser as well as a vacuum sealer.
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Old 12-13-2013, 08:58 AM   #29
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I like this design.. Floor sloped to the middle, with large drain in the middle.

Zurn, ACO and Polycast are probably the most common trench drain mfrs.
They can be ordered to slope to center or slope to one end.

Cut plywood temp covers that fit snugly for protection during the pour.
Doing this ensures easy R&R of the grating later.

Using the grates or loose fitting covers during the pour will ensure a nightmare dealing with the grates after concrete pressure does its job.
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Old 12-13-2013, 11:38 AM   #30
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Some great suggestions here. How about this, CMU block up to 48" and framed walls above that with FRP lapped over transition. Epoxy paint on CMU and on floor, you could hose that off all you wanted to. CMU is actually not that spendy. Keep your plugs in the framed walls, bombproof.
Insulate it big time and install a large capacity ductless mini-split system and you have a cooler to hang your meat until you need to cut it up.

Design help available for a burger donation.....
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Old 12-13-2013, 11:48 AM   #31
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Some great suggestions here. How about this, CMU block up to 48" and framed walls above that with FRP lapped over transition. Epoxy paint on CMU and on floor, you could hose that off all you wanted to. CMU is actually not that spendy. Keep your plugs in the framed walls, bombproof.
Insulate it big time and install a large capacity ductless mini-split system and you have a cooler to hang your meat until you need to cut it up.

Design help available for a burger donation.....
This is a very good solution ^^^

Free value engineering !



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Old 12-13-2013, 02:26 PM   #32
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As I understand it, HDPE is cheaper than UHMW and has a nice "pebble" texture on it (you can get it that way anyways). It's what cutting boards are typically made from. If you want to buy in bulk or have some sizes pre-cut, talk to Applied Plastics.

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Old 12-13-2013, 02:36 PM   #33
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As I understand it, HDPE is cheaper than UHMW and has a nice "pebble" texture on it (you can get it that way anyways). It's what cutting boards are typically made from. If you want to buy in bulk or have some sizes pre-cut, talk to Applied Plastics.

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What? Sorry, maybe I came in late on this. HDPE? UHMW? Applied Plastics?
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Old 12-13-2013, 02:40 PM   #34
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What? Sorry, maybe I came in late on this. HDPE? UHMW? Applied Plastics?
For cutting boards.
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Old 12-13-2013, 05:22 PM   #35
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I'd check with board member UMHW, he'll give you the straight scoop on plastic cutting boards.
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Old 12-14-2013, 08:06 AM   #36
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Love all the ideas.
Thanks
Tony
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Old 03-03-2014, 06:03 PM   #37
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well any one else doing this? getting ready to do "phase 1" myself!

where are u guys getting the FRB here in oregon?

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