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Old 08-17-2016, 05:51 PM   #5161
Greenh0rn50
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Thanks for the PM Bd, was wondering what your opinion is on a 2007 yamaha t8 that will only run with the choke pulled? Clogged jet in carb is what I am leaning to, fuel is old but was treated when stored.

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Old 08-18-2016, 10:50 AM   #5162
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Thanks for the PM Bd, was wondering what your opinion is on a 2007 yamaha t8 that will only run with the choke pulled? Clogged jet in carb is what I am leaning to, fuel is old but was treated when stored.
If the motor is only running with choke out, the carb is in need of a cleaning and possibly a rebuild. It is most likely a clogged jet or overall gummed up carb. I would start by getting it cleaned and go from there. If you are going to disassemble to clean you should just do a re-build kit since the carb will already be apart.

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Old 08-22-2016, 10:48 AM   #5163
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc'

Doc,

Got a fuel issue. 89 Merc 2 stroke, 90HP. The motor isn't picking up gas from the line. It will die out and go to no power. This can be solved by continuously pumping the fuel ball. I am not very familiar with the fuel delivery system. Does each carb have its own diaphragm pump or is there one central unit I can replace. If so are the parts available at either of your stores?

Thanks,
~30#
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Old 08-22-2016, 01:45 PM   #5164
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Doc,

Got a fuel issue. 89 Merc 2 stroke, 90HP. The motor isn't picking up gas from the line. It will die out and go to no power. This can be solved by continuously pumping the fuel ball. I am not very familiar with the fuel delivery system. Does each carb have its own diaphragm pump or is there one central unit I can replace. If so are the parts available at either of your stores?

Thanks,
~30#
There is one fuel pump for that motor. That fuel pump runs about $214 and I would have to special order that pump. Have you tried replacing your primer bulb? If there is any sort of air leak in your hoses or bulb you can get some of the same symptoms as if the pump went out. I would firts try by replacing the bulb and possibly the fuel lines from tank to motor. If that doesnt help I would then move to the fuel pump. If there is anything else we can help with let me know.

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Old 08-25-2016, 07:12 PM   #5165
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Thank you boat doc, paperwork I do have states that the motor received a remanufactured ecu October 11th 2010, Jay Hanley did the work, symptoms prior to the ecu were a jumping idle 700rpm to 1200 until warm. Serial number on the motor is OT345143

The owner of the boat perished 4 years ago, boat has been in his widows garage since then and she needs to sell. There are 7 hours on the new ecu with the smart craft gauges that I do not know much about.

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Dear BD, sorry to bring this up again but was wondering if you could direct me to a link that can tell me what all the recommended updates are for this motor. Motor runs great but I am paranoid, would bringing the boat to you guys to plug the motor in and give it a good diagnostic give me any new info? You stated that all of the updates were done but am curious as to what exactly those updates are. This is the meanest sounding motor I have ever heard!

Maybe I jumped the gun but because the motor has so few hours I found out how to put it back into break in mode and figured some double oiling might be a good idea to make sure all of the oil components are doing their deed.

Edit: Are the optis sensitive to older fuel? or can I run it long enough to put some fresh treated fuel in it.

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Old 08-26-2016, 09:17 AM   #5166
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Dear BD, sorry to bring this up again but was wondering if you could direct me to a link that can tell me what all the recommended updates are for this motor. Motor runs great but I am paranoid, would bringing the boat to you guys to plug the motor in and give it a good diagnostic give me any new info? You stated that all of the updates were done but am curious as to what exactly those updates are. This is the meanest sounding motor I have ever heard!

Maybe I jumped the gun but because the motor has so few hours I found out how to put it back into break in mode and figured some double oiling might be a good idea to make sure all of the oil components are doing their deed.

Edit: Are the optis sensitive to older fuel? or can I run it long enough to put some fresh treated fuel in it.
There are no updates needed or service bulletins for this motor. You also do not need to go through the break in period as the motor had a new ECU installed not a new motor. The low hours on your gauge are not the hours on the motor but the hours on the new ECU. I would stop double oiling the motor and add fresh gas to the tank with treatment. if you have more questions please let me know.

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Old 08-30-2016, 08:40 AM   #5167
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BDoc thanks for your help over the years. You rock!!

I've got a leaky fuel rail issue on 200hp 2002 efi merc. Had injectors cleaned, but apparently one still has issue. I can see leakage around it. Before I replace another $300 injector (2 already), can there be a problem with the ECM sending inappropriate signals? I've got a chronic overrich smoky condition on startups everytime (cloud of smoke), with leaky fuel I can see at the bottom of air intake when I look down through throttle air intake. Help please!!
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Old 09-01-2016, 08:01 AM   #5168
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BDoc thanks for your help over the years. You rock!!

I've got a leaky fuel rail issue on 200hp 2002 efi merc. Had injectors cleaned, but apparently one still has issue. I can see leakage around it. Before I replace another $300 injector (2 already), can there be a problem with the ECM sending inappropriate signals? I've got a chronic overrich smoky condition on startups everytime (cloud of smoke), with leaky fuel I can see at the bottom of air intake when I look down through throttle air intake. Help please!!
First I would check the wiring on your injectors. If there wiring is frayed at any point it can leave an injector open. If all of your wiring is ok, I would suggest taking the injectors to Automotive Products 503- 234-5241 and have Surgae re-build them. He does great work at a good price. The ECM would not send any false signals. Hope this helps.
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Old 09-01-2016, 09:08 AM   #5169
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Thanks Doc.....I had a wire that rubbed off coating but resealed. Could a short cause the injector to be fully open the whole time? Thanks for Surgs contact info too!
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Old 09-01-2016, 09:15 AM   #5170
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Thanks Doc.....I had a wire that rubbed off coating but resealed. Could a short cause the injector to be fully open the whole time? Thanks for Surgs contact info too!
Yes, a short can cause the injector to stay open the entire time. Having exposed wire won't allow the circuit to close. It should work fine now that you have sealed it up. If it is still leaking call Automotive Products and have them repaired.
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Old 09-08-2016, 03:28 PM   #5171
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I have a 1993 tracker 40hp 2 stroke made by Johnson with 152psi compression in both cylinders. I have no spark. I found one spark plug lead bad with a break in the wire. I replaced the leads and checked for spark and still don't have any.
I checked safety kill switch I followed the manual for all the specs charge coil is not grounded and output is 390v spec is anything over 230 is good ,resistance test spec is 850+/- 100 ohms I have 840 ohms. Sensor coil to ground test while cranking is not grounded so checks good sensor output spec is 0.5v I have 2v on lead A and 4v on lead B, checked grounded condition and no lead is grounded.
Now for the sensor coil resistance it calls for 15+/- 2 ohms I have 26.8 ohms on A-B and C-B. I know that is out of spec but my voltage output is good.
Did the power pack test and had 195v at one primary lead with the 10 ohm 10 watt resistor in place and no voltage reading on the other lead. I have a motor cycle repair back ground so I am not sure on the primary results. It says if one primary lead has no output replace power pack. Should both leads that go into the single coil have 175v plus ? Also while on the water when it was acting up it didn't seem to be charging. What are your thoughts?
Thank you in advance.
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Old 09-08-2016, 03:39 PM   #5172
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i have a 1993 tracker 40hp 2 stroke made by johnson with 152psi compression in both cylinders. I have no spark. I found one spark plug lead bad with a break in the wire. I replaced the leads and checked for spark and still don't have any.
I checked safety kill switch i followed the manual for all the specs charge coil is not grounded and output is 390v spec is anything over 230 is good ,resistance test spec is 850+/- 100 ohms i have 840 ohms. Sensor coil to ground test while cranking is not grounded so checks good sensor output spec is 0.5v i have 2v on lead a and 4v on lead b, checked grounded condition and no lead is grounded.
Now for the sensor coil resistance it calls for 15+/- 2 ohms i have 26.8 ohms on a-b and c-b. I know that is out of spec but my voltage output is good.
Did the power pack test and had 195v at one primary lead with the 10 ohm 10 watt resistor in place and no voltage reading on the other lead. I have a motor cycle repair back ground so i am not sure on the primary results. It says if one primary lead has no output replace power pack. Should both leads that go into the single coil have 175v plus ? Also while on the water when it was acting up it didn't seem to be charging. What are your thoughts?
Thank you in advance.
pm sent
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Old 09-11-2016, 06:47 PM   #5173
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Hello! I have a a 2003 Yamaha T8 Extra long shaft.

Would you happen to know how to get the Extension off the lower end so I can access the impeller?

Thanks!
Dave
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Old 09-12-2016, 09:33 AM   #5174
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Hello! I have a a 2003 Yamaha T8 Extra long shaft.

Would you happen to know how to get the Extension off the lower end so I can access the impeller?

Thanks!
Dave
I am not overly familiar with the Yamaha's but have provided a link to a parts diagram that will show all parts for your motor. Click on the correct motor then select "Lower Drive Casing 1 or 2". It will show a schematic of all the working parts so that you get all the bolts.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Ya...003/parts.html
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Old 09-12-2016, 11:43 AM   #5175
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I am not overly familiar with the Yamaha's but have provided a link to a parts diagram that will show all parts for your motor. Click on the correct motor then select "Lower Drive Casing 1 or 2". It will show a schematic of all the working parts so that you get all the bolts.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Ya...003/parts.html

Thank You! It must be corrosion holding it together! I'll gently hit it harder!

Dave
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Old 09-18-2016, 03:23 PM   #5176
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Wondering if anyone knows what is a standard gauge of wire to use to rewire dash on an old tracker boat for gauges and switches? It looks like it is 14 or 16 gauge but not sure and getting ready to order some marine grade wire.
Thank you in advance.
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Old 09-19-2016, 09:14 PM   #5177
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I own a 2009 Merc Opti 150. I store the boat in the garage and out of the elements. When stored, the motor is trimmed most of the way down. Pushed the button to raise the motor. The power trim motor started but there was a delay in the raising action of the motor. Gave it a little help with my hand and worked fine the rest of the day. Haven't had it out again.

A month ago I had the same concern and took it to Stevens where it checked out fine. Fluid levels were good, ect.

Any suggestions or thoughts? Obviously don't want to have to deal with this at the ramp when taking the boat out of the water.

Thanks
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Old 09-20-2016, 08:48 AM   #5178
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Wondering if anyone knows what is a standard gauge of wire to use to rewire dash on an old tracker boat for gauges and switches? It looks like it is 14 or 16 gauge but not sure and getting ready to order some marine grade wire.
Thank you in advance.
I would suggest using 14g wire.

-Boat Doc'
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Old 09-20-2016, 09:01 AM   #5179
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I own a 2009 Merc Opti 150. I store the boat in the garage and out of the elements. When stored, the motor is trimmed most of the way down. Pushed the button to raise the motor. The power trim motor started but there was a delay in the raising action of the motor. Gave it a little help with my hand and worked fine the rest of the day. Haven't had it out again.

A month ago I had the same concern and took it to Stevens where it checked out fine. Fluid levels were good, ect.

Any suggestions or thoughts? Obviously don't want to have to deal with this at the ramp when taking the boat out of the water.

Thanks
Are you keeping your batteries charged / maintained when the boat is stored? It may be caused by a slightly low battery, or it could be one of your trim solenoids starting to go out. Electrical items can be temperamental and can unfortunately fail at anytime without warning. If you continue to have the problem, I would suggest bringing the boat back into us and we can re-evaluate the problem.

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Old 09-22-2016, 11:10 PM   #5180
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Thank you.
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Old 11-29-2016, 03:12 PM   #5181
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Doc,

I took apart the seawater pump on my Intruder (impeller failed) and there was no wear plate on the back cover. The parts manual says there's supposed to be one. Is this normal?
BTW, it's the belt-driven seawater pump, not the one in the lower unit.

Thanks!
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Old 11-30-2016, 02:50 PM   #5182
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Doc,

I took apart the seawater pump on my Intruder (impeller failed) and there was no wear plate on the back cover. The parts manual says there's supposed to be one. Is this normal?
BTW, it's the belt-driven seawater pump, not the one in the lower unit.

Thanks!
I would need to know what motor is in the boat along with the serial number of the motor. There were a number of motors put in that model of boat. Feel free to PM me the info.

- Boat Doc'
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Old 12-12-2016, 06:53 PM   #5183
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James, You have a choke? :whazzup: Mine is an 01 and the manual specifically states, "turn key starting, choke is automatic". Pushing in the key does nothing. [img]graemlins/1zhelp.gif[/img]
WaterDog, I have a 97 175 SportJet. I too have a key-push choke. I have to continue to push the key in while turning. Even in cold weather it usually fires after about 10 seconds.
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Old 01-10-2017, 09:21 AM   #5184
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I am looking at re-powering a 22' Aluminum landing craft with either a Merc 150 four stroke or the Merc Verado 175 or 200. The Verados are 1.7l displacement and the 150 is a 3.0l. I have seen a lot of the 150s around here in AK but not many of the small Verados. The 150 is a good $4-5k less. Will I see the difference if I go Verado? I am inclined to go with the 150. I do a lot with my landing craft from hauling big loads to running around fishing and hunting. It currently has an old Honda BF90 on it and it planes out all kinds of loads but it isn't really fast (24kts all out and I often run it at 5200 rpms getting 21 kts).

At what RPMs is the Verado making good use of the supercharger? And is it really good on fuel below that?

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Old 01-13-2017, 10:07 AM   #5185
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in alaska it isnt easy to get things worked on in season so buy whatever you can get from a place that will service you. all motors run about the same there isnt any magic in a certain brand. yamaha has the best resale if that matters to you.
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Old 01-30-2017, 12:50 PM   #5186
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I recently picked up a good boat with a bad motor. The motor is a 60HP Evinrude built in 1992. The top cylinder has 0 compression.

My question is what type of special tools, if any, will I need to tear it down? I've been inside a number of Mercury outboards, but never an Evinrude.
Thanks
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Old 02-14-2017, 05:48 AM   #5187
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my old 8hp Mercury 2 stroke kicker is getting tough to shift out of neutral and into gear (forward or reverse) and back to neutral. Tiller is now starting to slip & click..

I have already opened it up and manually actuacted the linkage (which was stiff, is better now but it still seems rough). disconnecting the linkage from the tiller shows very smooth & clean movement from the tiller..

is there some place in the linkage that i should be greasing up? or how can i get this shifting smoother?

thanks for the help
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Old 02-15-2017, 09:09 AM   #5188
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I recently picked up a good boat with a bad motor. The motor is a 60HP Evinrude built in 1992. The top cylinder has 0 compression.

My question is what type of special tools, if any, will I need to tear it down? I've been inside a number of Mercury outboards, but never an Evinrude.
Thanks
I am unsure if there are any special tools needed to tear down the motor. I specialize in Mercury Motors and with the Mercury's all you need is a metric tool set. You could try calling Portland Marine Electronics (503- 922-3259) as they are the Evinrude dealer in the area and may have some more information.

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Old 02-15-2017, 09:51 AM   #5189
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my old 8hp Mercury 2 stroke kicker is getting tough to shift out of neutral and into gear (forward or reverse) and back to neutral. Tiller is now starting to slip & click..

I have already opened it up and manually actuacted the linkage (which was stiff, is better now but it still seems rough). disconnecting the linkage from the tiller shows very smooth & clean movement from the tiller..

is there some place in the linkage that i should be greasing up? or how can i get this shifting smoother?

thanks for the help

You could be having a problem with the gear in your linkage or it could also be your throttle / shift cable going out. I would recommend having the motor looked at by a Mercury tech for further diagnosis.

-Boat Doc'
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Old 02-16-2017, 07:48 PM   #5190
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I have a 2015 20hp Merc manual start. Is there a way I can charge my battery when running?


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Old 02-17-2017, 08:45 AM   #5191
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I have a 2015 20hp Merc manual start. Is there a way I can charge my battery when running?


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Unfortunately on the manual start motors there is no way to charge up your battery. That option is only available on the electric start motors and Mercury does not make a electric start conversion kit for the 20 hp motors. If you are looking to get your motor to charge your batteries, I would suggest upgrading to an electric start model. Hope this helps.

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Old 02-18-2017, 02:35 PM   #5192
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Tohatsu offers a kit. Would that work?


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Old 02-18-2017, 02:41 PM   #5193
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Tohatsu offers a kit. Would that work?


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No the Tohatsu kit will not work on a Mercury.

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Old 02-20-2017, 06:09 AM   #5194
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I have a 2011/2012 don't remember... 9.9 pro kicker Merc
It starts right up and runs at high rpms no problem with the choke on. I can idle it down and turn the choke off but it won't go to a complete idle, when I do it just dies. Any ideas?
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Old 02-20-2017, 08:04 AM   #5195
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc'

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Originally Posted by Airborne55334 View Post
I have a 2011/2012 don't remember... 9.9 pro kicker Merc
It starts right up and runs at high rpms no problem with the choke on. I can idle it down and turn the choke off but it won't go to a complete idle, when I do it just dies. Any ideas?
Sorry to hear you are having issues with your 9.9. Sounds to me like your carb needs to be cleaned and possibly re-built. This is typically the issue when the motor will only run with the choke pulled. Parts for your carb run $145 and to have us do a cleaning on it will run ya around $130 in labor. Hope this helps and please contact us if you would like to bring the motor in.

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Old 02-22-2017, 06:55 AM   #5196
namu mac
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc'

In reference to the above 20 hp Merc: There appears to be a stator wound under the flywheel with 2 leads, one yellow and the other white. These unused wires are on the intake side and look to come from the stator. What are these leads for?
Thanks
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Old 02-22-2017, 10:10 AM   #5197
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In reference to the above 20 hp Merc: There appears to be a stator wound under the flywheel with 2 leads, one yellow and the other white. These unused wires are on the intake side and look to come from the stator. What are these leads for?
Thanks
Those leads are used for the electric start models for either electric tiller or remote controls.

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Old 02-22-2017, 05:32 PM   #5198
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc'

Hello,

I have a '97 175 Merc SportJet. I have notices a small trickle of water coming from the back side of the engine (stern side) dripping into the bilge. The engine is so close to the transom I can't see where the water is coming from. I believe that the water may be coming from the exhaust cover gasket (down low on the engine)....but I'm not sure. Looks like the only 2 ways to really inspect this is to either pull the power head, or try to remove the exhaust cover and see if the gasket is toast. Problem with these 2 options is that I can't run the motor to see the leak in real time, or see if a new gasket will fix the drip until I reassemble the engine. There is also a water hose coming off the exhaust cover...but again...very difficult to clearly see, let alone replace it. The boat is a Boston Whaler Rage. There is only a few inches between the exhaust cover and the transom, so sticking your head back there is not an option. Any tips to verify where this leak may be coming from?
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Old 02-23-2017, 09:16 AM   #5199
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc'

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Hello,

I have a '97 175 Merc SportJet. I have notices a small trickle of water coming from the back side of the engine (stern side) dripping into the bilge. The engine is so close to the transom I can't see where the water is coming from. I believe that the water may be coming from the exhaust cover gasket (down low on the engine)....but I'm not sure. Looks like the only 2 ways to really inspect this is to either pull the power head, or try to remove the exhaust cover and see if the gasket is toast. Problem with these 2 options is that I can't run the motor to see the leak in real time, or see if a new gasket will fix the drip until I reassemble the engine. There is also a water hose coming off the exhaust cover...but again...very difficult to clearly see, let alone replace it. The boat is a Boston Whaler Rage. There is only a few inches between the exhaust cover and the transom, so sticking your head back there is not an option. Any tips to verify where this leak may be coming from?
I have attached a diagram of the Manifold assembly and adapter plate assembly. Number 21 is the cover gasket. There is also the flushing hose assembly that you spoke of. It could either be the gasket or a fitting on the flushing hose that is leaking. Really the only way to see if one is bad, is to remove and replace to see if it cures the problem, since there isn't enough clearance to see the back side of the motor. If you would like you could schedule a time to bring it in to our shop and we can try and diagnose where the water is coming from. Hope this helps.

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Old 02-23-2017, 10:08 AM   #5200
namu mac
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc'

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Originally Posted by Boat Doc' View Post
Those leads are used for the electric start models for either electric tiller or remote controls.

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Is it possible to convert manual to electric start?
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Old 02-23-2017, 10:20 AM   #5201
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Is it possible to convert manual to electric start?
I have done some further research on converting and I was able to find a kit that Mercury offers that should work on your motor. The kit runs $788 and with labor to install you would be around $1,1000.00 said and done. If you would like to order let me know as Mercury only has 1 of the kits in stock out of their east coast warehouse.

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