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Old 01-27-2010, 08:51 AM   #3001
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc' Forum

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Originally Posted by rip n lips View Post
Hey Doc, I recently replaced the tilt/trim motor in my boat. Everything had been working fine until the last time I took it out. Started noticing fluid spraying when tilting the engine up. Got it home thinking/hoping it was just one of the lines. Low n behold it was comming from between the peice where the engage/disingage knob and all the lines are and the top peice. 1st thought was gasket but upone dissambly I found there was just a metal plate there. Below the plate on the peice where the knob and the lines are there are 4 O-rings. One of the O-rings (closest to the front) is oval and is broken. 95% sure this is where my leak was occuring. Question is can I just replace this O-ring? I tried picking one up from the hardware store but being it fits in an oblong slot it will not stay in place...any ideas?
You should replace all 4 o-rings and use genuine parts to make sure they are sized correctly. If you just replace one it will probably cause the others to start leaking because they are partially collapsed

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Old 01-27-2010, 08:56 AM   #3002
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Originally Posted by One Eyed Jack View Post
Boat Doc
I have twin 135 opt max.Both motors tilted up fine for the road trip home.And now the starboard motor will not go up or dpwn.
Where should Istart looking?
Thanks Bruce
Check wire connections coming from the motor, if they are clean and intact then listen to the relays. If you hear the relays click both directions and it doesn't run then the motor is bad. If the relays don't click then it could be a relay, switch or wiring issue.
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Old 01-27-2010, 04:41 PM   #3003
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc' Forum

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Originally Posted by Boat Doc' View Post
Check wire connections coming from the motor, if they are clean and intact then listen to the relays. If you hear the relays click both directions and it doesn't run then the motor is bad. If the relays don't click then it could be a relay, switch or wiring issue.
Thanks Doc
Just pulled the motor to find broken magnet
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Old 01-29-2010, 07:51 AM   #3004
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc' Forum

Boat Doc, I have an 05 Yamaha T 9.9 that will not pee untill the thermostat opens. For the last year it would pee a little at first but now not at all untill it opens.
Pee hole is not plugged, i changed the water pump last year when it started to pee slow. This did'nt seem to help.
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Old 01-29-2010, 11:14 AM   #3005
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Default Inboard Starting Problem

Hey Boat Doc, you've helped me before but I have a chronic but intermittant problem with Ford 302 in a 21 year old Alumaweld (bought by me new from y'all). When the problem happens the ignition key is turned to start and the starter/engine just goes CLUNK! After 1,2,3 attempts the engine then turns over slightly, then more then starts, runs rough for 20 seconds or so then runs fine. This will happen 1 in 20, 2 in a row, or 1 in 10. It has never not started. This has been frustrating and scarry, depending on where you are, for about 15 years.

Things I have done: new battery, new starter, new solenoid, new ignition switch, rebuilt distributor on theory of sticky mechanical spark advance, checked for water intrusion from cracked exhaust water jacket -- internal checked good with no cracks, all battery cables have no corrosion -- got any ideas? Thanks
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Old 01-29-2010, 03:41 PM   #3006
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Boat Doc, I have an 05 Yamaha T 9.9 that will not pee untill the thermostat opens. For the last year it would pee a little at first but now not at all untill it opens.
Pee hole is not plugged, i changed the water pump last year when it started to pee slow. This did'nt seem to help.
If it peed before and not now then there has to be a bypass passage in the block or thermostat that is plugged. As long as it isn't overheating which it doesn't sound like it is you don't have to do anything
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Old 01-29-2010, 03:48 PM   #3007
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Default Re: Inboard Starting Problem

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Originally Posted by Redhawk View Post
Hey Boat Doc, you've helped me before but I have a chronic but intermittant problem with Ford 302 in a 21 year old Alumaweld (bought by me new from y'all). When the problem happens the ignition key is turned to start and the starter/engine just goes CLUNK! After 1,2,3 attempts the engine then turns over slightly, then more then starts, runs rough for 20 seconds or so then runs fine. This will happen 1 in 20, 2 in a row, or 1 in 10. It has never not started. This has been frustrating and scarry, depending on where you are, for about 15 years.

Things I have done: new battery, new starter, new solenoid, new ignition switch, rebuilt distributor on theory of sticky mechanical spark advance, checked for water intrusion from cracked exhaust water jacket -- internal checked good with no cracks, all battery cables have no corrosion -- got any ideas? Thanks
I would guess you have the timing extemely advanced or are getting water in the cylinders, it cranks slow till the water gets out, runs rough till the water gets off the plugs then runs fine till you shut it off. Causes could be dieseling on shut down caused by idling to fast, running hot, wrong plugs, timing incorrect etc. If it doesn't diesel remove the risers and look for signs of water intrusion either from the gasket, riser itself being corroded thru or the exhaust manifold corroded thru or cracked. You should get this addressed before you cause serious internal damage.
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Old 01-29-2010, 11:46 PM   #3008
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Default Re: Inboard Starting Problem

Boat Doc, the engine shuts down with no dieseling, doesn't run hot, no evidence of water intrusion, or corrosion in intakes or cylinders, new plugs are Autolite Platinum APP24 gapped at .040 (book calls for BRF-3 or ARF-32, ARF-32=Autolite 24) ,old plugs look the same for all cylinders, timed correctly after rebuilding distributor (6 degrees advance per book), engine runs great except for when it goes CLUNK on start. Problem has occurred intermittantly for past 15 years so not in any hurry to prevent damage.
I have scratched my head for years trying to correct this to no avail. Surely, someone out there has had a similar problem?

Other ideas?

thanks, lyle (aka Redhawk)
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Old 02-01-2010, 10:11 AM   #3009
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Default Re: Inboard Starting Problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by Redhawk View Post
Boat Doc, the engine shuts down with no dieseling, doesn't run hot, no evidence of water intrusion, or corrosion in intakes or cylinders, new plugs are Autolite Platinum APP24 gapped at .040 (book calls for BRF-3 or ARF-32, ARF-32=Autolite 24) ,old plugs look the same for all cylinders, timed correctly after rebuilding distributor (6 degrees advance per book), engine runs great except for when it goes CLUNK on start. Problem has occurred intermittantly for past 15 years so not in any hurry to prevent damage.
I have scratched my head for years trying to correct this to no avail. Surely, someone out there has had a similar problem?

Other ideas?

thanks, lyle (aka Redhawk)
When the starter is engaged two things are supposed to happen, first it throws the starter drive into the flywheel (clunk) as it activates a contact to crank the engine. Could it be normal?
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Old 02-02-2010, 01:19 PM   #3010
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Default Re: Inboard Starting Problem

I wasn't descriptive enough. When it goes "CLUNK" the motor doesn't turn over. When you activate the switch again, it will do the same thing, but on subsequent key turns it will go CLUNK then turn the engine slightly. With another key turn it will turn it slightly more, and with another key turn it will start cranking the engine which will then start, run rough for 20 seconds or so then run fine. Last monday, while fishing the N Fork, this happened 3 times out of 12 or so starts.

Thanks for your continued help, this problem has plagued me for over 10 years and I want to get it corrected before I get in trouble on a river.

lyle
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Old 02-02-2010, 03:10 PM   #3011
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Default Re: Inboard Starting Problem

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Originally Posted by Redhawk View Post
I wasn't descriptive enough. When it goes "CLUNK" the motor doesn't turn over. When you activate the switch again, it will do the same thing, but on subsequent key turns it will go CLUNK then turn the engine slightly. With another key turn it will turn it slightly more, and with another key turn it will start cranking the engine which will then start, run rough for 20 seconds or so then run fine. Last monday, while fishing the N Fork, this happened 3 times out of 12 or so starts.

Thanks for your continued help, this problem has plagued me for over 10 years and I want to get it corrected before I get in trouble on a river.

lyle
Next time it happens pull the spark plugs and see if there is water in the cylinders
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Old 02-02-2010, 06:39 PM   #3012
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc' Forum

Merc 15 Long shaft 2 stroke

I broke the shifter linkage as shown below. I broke it while trying to start the motor for a flush after running it in the bay. The throttle was being stubborn about shifting and I over-finessed it a bit.



I tried to identify the serial number and motor information from the metalic sticker on the port side on the shaft...the sticker looks like it has been through hell and back and is not legible.

3 questions:
1) Is there any other place on the motor where I can find the serial number or other identification marks?
2) Can I order the part from you (Stephens) and put it on. It just pops onto and off of the ball joints (I got it off just with little effort), or should I take it in to get the once over (rough estimate $$?)
3) Is the broken linkage typically a sign of other issues?

Thanks Doc!
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Old 02-03-2010, 01:21 AM   #3013
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc' Forum

i just bought a 2005 8hp mercury 2 stroke and i took it out for the first day and when i got home i noticed i have a black oil coming out the prop and down the skag. It is really black. I changed the lower unit oil and in doing so i had water in the lower unit oil. Since i changed it the other day i am still getting dripping oil but its solid black and not the color of new lower unit oil. I havnt ran it since i changed the lower unit oil to see if i get more water in the lower unit. What do i need to do to get that oil from dripping or is it normal for that black oil to be dripping out? any help is appreciated.thanks
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Old 02-03-2010, 10:18 AM   #3014
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc' Forum

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Merc 15 Long shaft 2 stroke

I broke the shifter linkage as shown below. I broke it while trying to start the motor for a flush after running it in the bay. The throttle was being stubborn about shifting and I over-finessed it a bit.



I tried to identify the serial number and motor information from the metalic sticker on the port side on the shaft...the sticker looks like it has been through hell and back and is not legible.

3 questions:
1) Is there any other place on the motor where I can find the serial number or other identification marks?
2) Can I order the part from you (Stephens) and put it on. It just pops onto and off of the ball joints (I got it off just with little effort), or should I take it in to get the once over (rough estimate $$?)
3) Is the broken linkage typically a sign of other issues?

Thanks Doc!
Don't need the ser #. There is two bushings under the carb that are supported by the block casting. Those bushing have either swelled up or have salt deposits on the making them stiff and causing the link rod to break. The bushings need to be removed and cleaned or sanded as necessary so they move free. For us to fix it would be around 150.00
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Old 02-03-2010, 10:20 AM   #3015
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i just bought a 2005 8hp mercury 2 stroke and i took it out for the first day and when i got home i noticed i have a black oil coming out the prop and down the skag. It is really black. I changed the lower unit oil and in doing so i had water in the lower unit oil. Since i changed it the other day i am still getting dripping oil but its solid black and not the color of new lower unit oil. I havnt ran it since i changed the lower unit oil to see if i get more water in the lower unit. What do i need to do to get that oil from dripping or is it normal for that black oil to be dripping out? any help is appreciated.thanks
brandon kind
You are seeing unburn't oil that builds up in the mid section then runs out the prop when shut off. Extended trolling and cold water also contribute to the issue. This is normal. You can eliminate most of it by running it hard for about 10 minutes before you shut it down
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Old 02-03-2010, 11:30 PM   #3016
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thanks alot.
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Old 02-04-2010, 02:19 PM   #3017
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc' Forum

Hello Boat Doc. I have a 1995 40HP Force 2 stroke. (made by Mercury Marine). I have compression problems. I have 75% compression on the lower cylinder and I'm good on the top cylinder. I also have fluid forming on the pistons. Is this a head gaskets issue or something else. How much would it cost to fix it?
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Old 02-04-2010, 04:15 PM   #3018
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Hello Boat Doc. I have a 1995 40HP Force 2 stroke. (made by Mercury Marine). I have compression problems. I have 75% compression on the lower cylinder and I'm good on the top cylinder. I also have fluid forming on the pistons. Is this a head gaskets issue or something else. How much would it cost to fix it?
iIf the compression varies by more than 15% I would pull the head and see what is damaged
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Old 02-09-2010, 03:40 PM   #3019
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc' Forum

Boat Doc
I have a 2004 Sportjet 175 in a 19' intruder. This is my first jet. Everything is runnig good (no buzzers or bells).
My questions - How can I tell if the oil is being injected at the correct rate? I marked the oil level in the remote tank but it doesnt seem to be drawing down much.

How many gallons of gas should I be going thru for a full oil tank?

Thanks
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Old 02-10-2010, 11:30 AM   #3020
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Boat Doc
I have a 2004 Sportjet 175 in a 19' intruder. This is my first jet. Everything is runnig good (no buzzers or bells).
My questions - How can I tell if the oil is being injected at the correct rate? I marked the oil level in the remote tank but it doesnt seem to be drawing down much.

How many gallons of gas should I be going thru for a full oil tank?

Thanks
kingfishn
Should see about 144-250 gallons fuel per 3 gallons of oil depending on throttle settings. You could also do a flow test. Hook up a fuel supply mixed at 50-1. Remove the output hose and cap the fitting. Run it at 1500 rpm. you should see 6.8cc plus or minus 10% in 3 minutes
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Old 02-12-2010, 07:22 AM   #3021
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc' Forum

How much of a job is it to change out a timing belt on a Yamaha T-8 ?

Thanks
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Old 02-12-2010, 09:43 AM   #3022
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How much of a job is it to change out a timing belt on a Yamaha T-8 ?

Thanks
Should be easy, remove the covers and flywheel and put in a new one
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Old 02-12-2010, 04:27 PM   #3023
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Boat Doc.....I purchased a Mercury Service Manual to get my '09 Mercury 4-stroke 8hp ready for fishing this year. Drained the motor oil which was easy to follow in the manual, but when I was reinstalling the plug, it didn't say to use a new seal washer, neither did it tell me the torque on the plug. Seemed strange that the Mercury Service Manual wouldn't have a torque setting for this plug. Could please tell me what the experts set the torque on this plug at.
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Old 02-13-2010, 11:03 AM   #3024
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Boat Doc.....I purchased a Mercury Service Manual to get my '09 Mercury 4-stroke 8hp ready for fishing this year. Drained the motor oil which was easy to follow in the manual, but when I was reinstalling the plug, it didn't say to use a new seal washer, neither did it tell me the torque on the plug. Seemed strange that the Mercury Service Manual wouldn't have a torque setting for this plug. Could please tell me what the experts set the torque on this plug at.
They tell you to lube the gasket and torque the plug to 17.7 ft lbs
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Old 02-13-2010, 12:53 PM   #3025
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They tell you to lube the gasket and torque the plug to 17.7 ft lbs
Thanks...Got it registered in my service manual
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Old 02-13-2010, 07:24 PM   #3026
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Hey Boat Doc,
What range should the compression be within for the following 2 outboards:

#1) 2000 merc
75 hp
4 stroke
MDL ELPT)
#2) 2005 merc
8 hp
4 stroke
MDL F8ML?

Thanks!
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Old 02-16-2010, 10:26 AM   #3027
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Hey Boat Doc,
What range should the compression be within for the following 2 outboards:

#1) 2000 merc
75 hp
4 stroke
MDL ELPT)
#2) 2005 merc
8 hp
4 stroke
MDL F8ML?

Thanks!
180-200 and around 100 on the troller. Masin thing is they are equal. You should also do a leak down test if the numbers are low or vary by 15% or more
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Old 02-16-2010, 11:25 AM   #3028
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc' Forum

Looking for advice - I acquired my uncles 2006 Custom Weld Viper II last summer and I love the boat. It had a whopping 24 hours on it when i got it and he took it in every year for maintenance. It has the 350 engine and the American Turbine 312 with SDR. The only complaint I have is slow speed operation - i can't seem to keep it in straight line. It does not pull to one direction or the other, it just does not want to stay straight.

Any helpful hints. One mechanic suggested adding a rudder to the bottom of the jet but American and Custom weld frown on the idea for obvious shallow water concerns.
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Old 02-16-2010, 06:51 PM   #3029
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Need to find out if the flywheel crankshaft nut is left hand or right hand thread on a Yamaha T-8 .
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Old 02-16-2010, 09:32 PM   #3030
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc' Forum

I've got a sweet little 16' x 7' Piranha sled that I use almost exclusively down in tidewater, repowered last year with a 2009 40hp Mercury four stroke prop drive from Stevens Marine.

I was looking for info/opinions on picking up a jet pump, so I could have the option of running upriver as well. So questions are:

As the hull weighs around #750, would the 40hp be too small to work effectively with a pump? right now, with a power prop, it's on plane very quickly and at 60% throttle is running close to 30 mph.

How hard is swapping back and forth between a prop drive and jet pump?

What could I expect to pay for a pump?
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Old 02-16-2010, 10:14 PM   #3031
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180-200 and around 100 on the troller. Masin thing is they are equal. You should also do a leak down test if the numbers are low or vary by 15% or more
So if the compression numbers are 200 & 170 or 180 & 153, there could be a problem?

What is a leak down test?
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Old 02-17-2010, 02:37 PM   #3032
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Looking for advice - I acquired my uncles 2006 Custom Weld Viper II last summer and I love the boat. It had a whopping 24 hours on it when i got it and he took it in every year for maintenance. It has the 350 engine and the American Turbine 312 with SDR. The only complaint I have is slow speed operation - i can't seem to keep it in straight line. It does not pull to one direction or the other, it just does not want to stay straight.

Any helpful hints. One mechanic suggested adding a rudder to the bottom of the jet but American and Custom weld frown on the idea for obvious shallow water concerns.
Its been my experience there is nothing you can do, lots of boats do it
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Old 02-17-2010, 02:38 PM   #3033
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Need to find out if the flywheel crankshaft nut is left hand or right hand thread on a Yamaha T-8 .
Rt hand
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Old 02-17-2010, 02:43 PM   #3034
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Originally Posted by surfnfish View Post
I've got a sweet little 16' x 7' Piranha sled that I use almost exclusively down in tidewater, repowered last year with a 2009 40hp Mercury four stroke prop drive from Stevens Marine.

I was looking for info/opinions on picking up a jet pump, so I could have the option of running upriver as well. So questions are:

As the hull weighs around #750, would the 40hp be too small to work effectively with a pump? right now, with a power prop, it's on plane very quickly and at 60% throttle is running close to 30 mph.

How hard is swapping back and forth between a prop drive and jet pump?

What could I expect to pay for a pump?
I would guess it would work good with no more than 2 people. Price would be close to 2K plus install. Keep in mind the engine has to go up 7 inches for the jet. Swapping back and forth isn't that hard, most difficult part would be changing the height
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Old 02-20-2010, 03:26 PM   #3035
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boat doc, i just bought an old johnson 9 horse kicker off cr. it starts runs smooth but won't shift into gear. did i buy a lemon? help!!!
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Old 02-20-2010, 03:59 PM   #3036
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Boat Doc, I have a fuel injected Chevy 350 and a T9 4cycle kicker running off the same 70 gallon gas tank in my Customweld jet. Both engines about 9 years old. I want to add some fuel cleaner, like STP Complete Fuel system to the gas to help clean carb and injectors. Do you see any problem with that? Is there a different fuel cleaner you'd recommend? I'd need a lot of it to get the mix right for a full tank, but could approximate based on roughly how much gas remains in the tank, though I don't really trust the needle gage. Would it be an issue if I got the mix wrong by 10 or 20%??
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Old 02-20-2010, 05:30 PM   #3037
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Hey BD, I purchased a '77 boat that has been sitting for about 5-7 years. It has a 85el77s Johnson. After lubing the cylinders and replaceing the plugs with OEM it pretty much fired right off. Ran a can of Johnson "Tune Up" through it as well per instructions. It basically starts and runs ok, but had an occasional stutter at higher rpm's. Then when I took er out the other day, running just under top rpm for about two minutes, it seemed to drop 2 or three holes. Just barlely keeped running. Left the throttle where it was to nurse back to dock and it occasionally would cut back in for a sec. After about 5 minutes heading back it jumped back to normal. Sucking air (still have the original fuel plugs and squeeze ball) or electrical? Where would I start?
Appreciate any help. ( I do have mechanical background, just not in boat motors
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Old 02-22-2010, 12:10 PM   #3038
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When ordering new spark plug wires for a 75hp merc 4 stroke (year 2000).

What numbers do I need to know to get the correct replacement spark plug wires and plugs?

Are there any other item's that should be changed at the same time as the wires and plugs? (Like you might change a distributor cap in a car....etc...

Thank you so much for you knowledge.
MGF
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Old 02-22-2010, 01:30 PM   #3039
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boat doc, i just bought an old johnson 9 horse kicker off cr. it starts runs smooth but won't shift into gear. did i buy a lemon? help!!!
Pull the prop and see if it has a shear pin. If not then look at the linkage and see if it moves with the lever.
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Old 02-22-2010, 01:32 PM   #3040
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Boat Doc, I have a fuel injected Chevy 350 and a T9 4cycle kicker running off the same 70 gallon gas tank in my Customweld jet. Both engines about 9 years old. I want to add some fuel cleaner, like STP Complete Fuel system to the gas to help clean carb and injectors. Do you see any problem with that? Is there a different fuel cleaner you'd recommend? I'd need a lot of it to get the mix right for a full tank, but could approximate based on roughly how much gas remains in the tank, though I don't really trust the needle gage. Would it be an issue if I got the mix wrong by 10 or 20%??
Use anything that doesn't contain alcohol. Even if you double up on it it won't hurt anything
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Old 02-22-2010, 01:38 PM   #3041
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Hey BD, I purchased a '77 boat that has been sitting for about 5-7 years. It has a 85el77s Johnson. After lubing the cylinders and replaceing the plugs with OEM it pretty much fired right off. Ran a can of Johnson "Tune Up" through it as well per instructions. It basically starts and runs ok, but had an occasional stutter at higher rpm's. Then when I took er out the other day, running just under top rpm for about two minutes, it seemed to drop 2 or three holes. Just barlely keeped running. Left the throttle where it was to nurse back to dock and it occasionally would cut back in for a sec. After about 5 minutes heading back it jumped back to normal. Sucking air (still have the original fuel plugs and squeeze ball) or electrical? Where would I start?
Appreciate any help. ( I do have mechanical background, just not in boat motors
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Check compression and spark. Sounds like you are dropping spark to one or more cylinders. If it checks out ok take a fuel sample. This should get you pointed in the right direction
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Old 02-22-2010, 01:39 PM   #3042
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When ordering new spark plug wires for a 75hp merc 4 stroke (year 2000).

What numbers do I need to know to get the correct replacement spark plug wires and plugs?

Are there any other item's that should be changed at the same time as the wires and plugs? (Like you might change a distributor cap in a car....etc...

Thank you so much for you knowledge.
MGF
Need the engine serial number. Other items would be fuel filter, gear oil and engine oil changes. Plug wires normally don't go bad
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Old 02-24-2010, 09:39 PM   #3043
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Boat Doc, I have 2 questions.

1. Do you have a size and pitch prop recommendation for a 92 alumaweld super v pro with a 200 merc and a bay kit extension? I am getting a lot of cavitation with the standard aluminum 3 blade prop. I figured that a lot of these boats have the same problem since the disance from the top of the transom to the bottom of the boat would be the same on all of the 92 super v pros manufactured.

2. I feel like I don't have the power I need when the pump is on the super v. With 4 people and some gear I can barely get on plane on the Deschutes. the motor has been checked and compression is fine. I think the impellor might be worn down and there is too much gap between the impellor and the sleeve. Should I get it blueprinted or get a new impellor? What is the cost and performance difference between new impellor and blueprinting.
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Old 02-24-2010, 10:01 PM   #3044
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Boat Doc....how critical is a poppet valve on a 150 Merc OG005704? Do these things need service or replacing? I understand they kick in after 1500rpm but it doesn't look like it assists in cooling, looks like a water dump for exhaust muffling. Still working on my overheating issue and found the thermostats in horrible condition. Even though the engine gets a fresh water flush, there are limitations to how effective this has been without saltaway. I'll be pulling hoses and backflushing the whole engine to pushout any debris leftover from 15 years of use. I'll do this after I drop the lower unit....interested in what comes out. I pulled the port cylinder head and the pistons look pristeen, no scaring. Compression is 100lbs on all cylinders, I know it should be higher but I think it's the cheap gauge I'm using. I'll try another gauge and see if it improves. I do not see a reason to pull the starboard head. So I guess my question is change the poppet valve or not an issue.

Thanks Much
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Old 02-25-2010, 03:23 PM   #3045
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Boat Doc, I have 2 questions.

1. Do you have a size and pitch prop recommendation for a 92 alumaweld super v pro with a 200 merc and a bay kit extension? I am getting a lot of cavitation with the standard aluminum 3 blade prop. I figured that a lot of these boats have the same problem since the disance from the top of the transom to the bottom of the boat would be the same on all of the 92 super v pros manufactured.

2. I feel like I don't have the power I need when the pump is on the super v. With 4 people and some gear I can barely get on plane on the Deschutes. the motor has been checked and compression is fine. I think the impellor might be worn down and there is too much gap between the impellor and the sleeve. Should I get it blueprinted or get a new impellor? What is the cost and performance difference between new impellor and blueprinting.
I would recommend a stainless Mirage in 19 pitch. On the pump blueprinting and sharpening and shimming are most important. Also upgrading to the power pump will be a big change in performance if you don't already have it
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Old 02-25-2010, 03:25 PM   #3046
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Boat Doc....how critical is a poppet valve on a 150 Merc OG005704? Do these things need service or replacing? I understand they kick in after 1500rpm but it doesn't look like it assists in cooling, looks like a water dump for exhaust muffling. Still working on my overheating issue and found the thermostats in horrible condition. Even though the engine gets a fresh water flush, there are limitations to how effective this has been without saltaway. I'll be pulling hoses and backflushing the whole engine to pushout any debris leftover from 15 years of use. I'll do this after I drop the lower unit....interested in what comes out. I pulled the port cylinder head and the pistons look pristeen, no scaring. Compression is 100lbs on all cylinders, I know it should be higher but I think it's the cheap gauge I'm using. I'll try another gauge and see if it improves. I do not see a reason to pull the starboard head. So I guess my question is change the poppet valve or not an issue.

Thanks Much
Bill
If the poppet valve moves freely and the diaphragm isn't torn there is no reason to change it
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Old 02-25-2010, 05:42 PM   #3047
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I just received a 1968 Johnson FD-22E outboard motor from an estate. It's been in the basement of my Grandfather-in-Law's house for the past 30 or so years and looks like it's been used maybe 3 times. I need to know if this is a 2-stroke or 4 stroke motor and if it's a 2-stroke, what the appropriate fuel to oil mix ratio is. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

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Old 02-26-2010, 01:31 AM   #3048
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Hey doc
I am bought a 16' sled with at 1980 3cyl 90hp merc jet outboard. The compression is good. But the boat has been sitting for 3+ years without being winterized. I plan on emptying the fuel tank cleaning it, replacing fuel lines, cleaning the carb(s) and installing a water/fuel separator filter. What else should I check before taking it out on the water to test? Any preventive maintenance I should do now? Any other things I should consider?

Last edited by Sunnygx; 03-01-2010 at 07:34 AM.
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Old 02-28-2010, 11:54 AM   #3049
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Boat Doc',
I have a 2009 9.9 4 stroke Merc Big Foot (manual). It's got about 10 hours on it. The first 10 hours seemed fine. But now, it seems starved for gas. It starts easily, but hunts while the choke is on and never gets up to full song. If I press the primer bulb after it first starts, it revs up and runs smoothly for 3 seconds. If I give it any throttle, it dies completely. I've checked the fuel lines and they are all full and free with no kinks. The fuel is plumbed to the main fuel filter. Maybe I've answered my own question ... next step, replace the main fuel filter/separator and reseat the fuel line? Thoughts?

Also, the linkage from the carb to the choke plunger keeps falling apart. How do I fix that to keep them from coming apart?
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Old 03-01-2010, 08:39 AM   #3050
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Originally Posted by tobmaniac View Post
I just received a 1968 Johnson FD-22E outboard motor from an estate. It's been in the basement of my Grandfather-in-Law's house for the past 30 or so years and looks like it's been used maybe 3 times. I need to know if this is a 2-stroke or 4 stroke motor and if it's a 2-stroke, what the appropriate fuel to oil mix ratio is. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Tobmaniac
Its a 2 stroke mixed at 50-1
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Old 03-01-2010, 08:42 AM   #3051
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Hey doc
I am bought a 16' sled with at 1980 3cyl 90hp merc jet outboard. The compression is good. But the boat has been sitting for 3+ years without being winterized. I plan on emptying the fuel tank cleaning it, replacing fuel lines, cleaning the carb(s) and installing a water/fuel separator filter. What else should I check before taking it out on the water to test? Any preventive maintenance I should do now? Any other things I should consider?
Only other thing would be to pull the hose off the bottom of the oil reservoir and make sure there is no water in it.
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Old 03-01-2010, 08:45 AM   #3052
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Boat Doc',
I have a 2009 9.9 4 stroke Merc Big Foot (manual). It's got about 10 hours on it. The first 10 hours seemed fine. But now, it seems starved for gas. It starts easily, but hunts while the choke is on and never gets up to full song. If I press the primer bulb after it first starts, it revs up and runs smoothly for 3 seconds. If I give it any throttle, it dies completely. I've checked the fuel lines and they are all full and free with no kinks. The fuel is plumbed to the main fuel filter. Maybe I've answered my own question ... next step, replace the main fuel filter/separator and reseat the fuel line? Thoughts?

Also, the linkage from the carb to the choke plunger keeps falling apart. How do I fix that to keep them from coming apart?
The air mixture screw needs adjusted or if that doesn't work the carb needs to be taken apart and cleaned. May need to replace a part on the linkage. If you bring it by we can get it done quickly
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Old 03-02-2010, 08:40 PM   #3053
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Electrical help,
I was working on the power toggle switche for the nav / anchor lights and had them working but I forgot to pull the fuse before disconnecting one of the other switch wires and caused a spark between one of the wires and the boat hull/frame. I no longer have power upfront at the switches. I checked the fuses located above the switchs and they are still good...? Would there happen to be another inline fuse somewhere between the battery and the switch panel that I'm not seeing?

2000 Alumaweld Intruder (16ft) with 75hp 4-stroke mercury outboard.
There are Steven's Marine Stickers on the trailer, boat and motor.

Where should I check?

Thanks, Mark
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Old 03-02-2010, 09:23 PM   #3054
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I have a 17' smokercraft osprey and just sold my 06 50hp merc that was on her. I found an 06 115 four stroke used in my price range but it is a 25" shaft while my transom is for a 20" shaft. I have been told that the transom can be built up or I could get a jack plate. Thoughts????

Next question...Newer motor higher hours and warranty or older motor lower hours no warranty...Is there a lesser of two evils....

I know just buy new it as only about 2.5k-3k more...that would be fine with me if I did not sleep next to the most frugal person anyone has ever met in their life.
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Old 03-03-2010, 08:49 AM   #3055
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Electrical help,
I was working on the power toggle switche for the nav / anchor lights and had them working but I forgot to pull the fuse before disconnecting one of the other switch wires and caused a spark between one of the wires and the boat hull/frame. I no longer have power upfront at the switches. I checked the fuses located above the switchs and they are still good...? Would there happen to be another inline fuse somewhere between the battery and the switch panel that I'm not seeing?

2000 Alumaweld Intruder (16ft) with 75hp 4-stroke mercury outboard.
There are Steven's Marine Stickers on the trailer, boat and motor.

Where should I check?

Thanks, Mark
Start with fuses at the battery, if they are ok look at connections at the battery and also instrument harness plug in for corrosion
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:16 AM   #3056
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I have a 17' smokercraft osprey and just sold my 06 50hp merc that was on her. I found an 06 115 four stroke used in my price range but it is a 25" shaft while my transom is for a 20" shaft. I have been told that the transom can be built up or I could get a jack plate. Thoughts????

Next question...Newer motor higher hours and warranty or older motor lower hours no warranty...Is there a lesser of two evils....

I know just buy new it as only about 2.5k-3k more...that would be fine with me if I did not sleep next to the most frugal person anyone has ever met in their life.
I would be concerned about the weight, especially if you have a kicker. Adding a jack plate will set the engine back which will make the weight issue worse. Building up the transom is a option but would not look right. I would suggest holding out for a motor of the correct shaft length. Four strokes in general are very reliable, if the hours are relatively low I wouldn't be afraid of older and no warranty. If possible stay with EFI, less fuel related issues.
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Old 03-03-2010, 12:17 PM   #3057
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I would be concerned about the weight, especially if you have a kicker. Adding a jack plate will set the engine back which will make the weight issue worse. Building up the transom is a option but would not look right. I would suggest holding out for a motor of the correct shaft length. Four strokes in general are very reliable, if the hours are relatively low I wouldn't be afraid of older and no warranty. If possible stay with EFI, less fuel related issues.
At how many hours would you walk away from a 03 yamaha 115 EFI obviously w/ no warranty?
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Old 03-03-2010, 01:46 PM   #3058
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At how many hours would you walk away from a 03 yamaha 115 EFI obviously w/ no warranty?
Approx 500. Would base my decision more on how it looks under the cowl. If its beat up and has lots of corrosion I wouldn't touch it regardless of hours
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Old 03-03-2010, 08:50 PM   #3059
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Originally Posted by marthagofish
Electrical help,
I was working on the power toggle switche for the nav / anchor lights and had them working but I forgot to pull the fuse before disconnecting one of the other switch wires and caused a spark between one of the wires and the boat hull/frame. I no longer have power upfront at the switches. I checked the fuses located above the switchs and they are still good...? Would there happen to be another inline fuse somewhere between the battery and the switch panel that I'm not seeing?
2000 Alumaweld Intruder (16ft) with 75hp 4-stroke mercury outboard.
There are Steven's Marine Stickers on the trailer, boat and motor.
Where should I check?
Thanks, Mark


Quote:
Originally Posted by Boat Doc' View Post
Start with fuses at the battery, if they are ok look at connections at the battery and also instrument harness plug in for corrosion
New Question:

Hey Boat Doc,
I found out that the in line fuse that goes from the switch panel back to the battery is corroded pretty bad and is no longer usable. I am not able to remove the fuse and can not see what amp or size fuse it used to be. Itís feeding juice to the helm switch / fuse panel which has the following fuses and switches: 10 amp (Bildge), 10 amp (Lights), 5 or 6 amp (?), 10 amp & 20 amp.

What amp / size fuse should be used in line from the battery?
Where would I find one with the round end connector that attaches over the threaded battery post? Thanks, Mark
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Old 03-04-2010, 12:17 PM   #3060
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Dear Boat Doc,
Boat: 2004 NR Trapper 21 foot
Motor: 350 Marine V8 EFI
Pump: H212

Problem: Fuel Pump noisy and engine stalls after 30s to 1m on trailer post fuel filter replacement. Pump running longer than normal and noisy enough to be hear over the engine. Also can hear what sounds like a sucking sound when key is turned off after motor has been started. (sounds like it is coming from within the fuel system)

Event Sequence History:
1) Replaced fuel filter and o-ring. 10um paper filter inside grey canister attached to engine. greased o-ring lightly to prevent future sticking. Cleaned any and all particulate out of the canister.
NOTE: also replaced oil, oil filter, and coolant.
NOTE: Engine has run perfectly for years and ran perfectly just a few weeks ago.
2) Forgot to prime filter to 2/3 with fuel as noted in manual.
3) Turned on key 3x activating fuel pump for about 30 seconds total and heard it not pressurize normally. (did not attempt to start engine)
4) Realized I forgot to pime the filter.
5) Removed fuel filter canister. Found about 2 ounces of fuel in bottom otherwise dry canister and filter.
6) Filled filter canister nearly full with fuel.
7) Backed boat (on trailer) down to river.
8) Turned key on until pump stopped, off 10sec, on until pump stopped, off 10sec (several times)
NOTE: fuel pump noisier than normal
9) Started engine with fresh water cooling system cap off to ensure I kept it full as coolant level dropped.
10) engine began to stutter and stalled after about 30sec - 1min. Heard sucking sound (suspected in fuel system) as soon as engine stopped.
11) Restarted engine several times (10+) hoping to blow air out of fuel system and get the fuel pump to prime normally. Each time the engine idled only 30-60 secs, stuttered and stalled. Each time heard sucking sound (suspected in fuel system) as soon as engine stopped.
NOTE: The fuel pump (attached to the fuel filter canister) became increasingly noisy with each attempt to start the engine.
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