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Old 02-25-2004, 06:20 PM   #121
bighugetrout
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Hi Boat Doc,
I have a '98 Merc 65 jet outboard and wondered if I need to have the impeller sharpened. I looked and noticed some nicks on the blades. Thanks.

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Old 02-25-2004, 07:14 PM   #122
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backtail
I had a similar problem with my intruder. Remove the screw in cover an the rear deck and inspect the wire's leading to the fuel gauge. Both should be tight.
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Old 02-25-2004, 11:13 PM   #123
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ET, try unscrewing each of the idle mixture screws 1/8 of a turn at a time and see if the problem goes away. If you open them 1 full turn and the problem is still there then you would need to rebuild the carbs. It won't hurt anything to do nothing other than the aggravation it causes.

Jon T, compression should be close to equal and around 100 psi. Throttle can be closed on 2 strokes. If compression is ok then recheck everything else you did especially the primer bulb in that the engine end is pointing up hill so the check valves seat. If you have access to a vacuum gauge you can do the following. Tee the vacuum gauge into fuel pump pulse hose, its the one that attaches to the back of fuel pump. Start engine at idle and pinch off fuel supply line. You should see a minimum vacuum of 2.5 inches. If you dont then either the fuel pump is bad or there isnt enough crankcase pressure to operate it. Next tee the fuel supply line and look for 2.5 inches or less. If you have more you need to find the restriction. Lastly hook up a clear hose and check for air. If you have air bubbles you need to eliminate the source. Good luck. Doc
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Old 02-25-2004, 11:29 PM   #124
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Jon T. One last thing. Do you have any problems with oil tank on engine staying full?
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Old 02-26-2004, 12:01 PM   #125
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timinthegorge, you need to choke it as soon as it starts to die. It may need to be choked 2-3 times before it warms up enough to stay running. Another thing to try is to choke while cranking and continue choking after it starts, keep choking it till it almost dies.

Todd, Assuming you have the gauge turned on- they are normally wired to the nav lites,access the sender and ground the the center post of the sender. The gauge should peg itself to full. If it doesnt there is a wiring issue between the sender and gauge. If it does Remove and adjust or replace the sender. Some of those fuel tanks are plastic and they can collapse in the center. You would probably have to lift the floor to confirm.Lastly those tanks are about 4 inches deep and 6 feet long, the boat has to be level to read right.

big huge trout,All nicks should be removed and leading edges sharpened. Also check the shimming, look for .010 to .015 clearance and adjust as necessary
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Old 02-26-2004, 02:29 PM   #126
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Thanks for the reply Boat Doc. Since I'm a new owner, I've never sharpened the impeller and don't know what the shim thingy is. What would it cost me to have it taken care of at the shop? Thanks again.
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Old 02-27-2004, 01:10 PM   #127
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Bighugetrout, would run around 60-100, it is easy to do, if you came by we could show you on parts we have here.
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Old 02-27-2004, 06:13 PM   #128
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Boat Doc I have a smoker craft ospray 17 that I bought from your store it has a 50 horse merc on it after the fall silver fishing I just tarped it up and it got real cold this winter is there any problems that I might expect when I fire it up in a week or two is there any thing I should do before I start it.I went out and pulled the plug and a lot of water came out.
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Old 03-01-2004, 12:25 PM   #129
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Justfish, There is nothing to do at this time other than charge your battery and run it. You may want to change the gear oil, change fuel filters, spark plugs, replace water pump and lube everything. Ideally you would do all the above prior to storage.
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Old 03-01-2004, 12:30 PM   #130
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Boat Doc... I have a '90 8 Horse Merc trolling motor that wont stay running. If I prime it it will start right up, but once it is started and the choke pushed in, it starts to die. I can keep it running if I am fast enough, to pull out the choke, or give more gas.

I have tried to run it at a higher idle speed, and tried to adjust the mixture. I also checked the primer ball and the fuel filter and the resevoir. All signs show I am getting fuel.

Could it be a clogged jet? and how do I fix that?
Can you make the instructions clear enough so a woman can understand them? I have to do this myself, I'm shy of money right now.
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[ 03-01-2004, 01:34 PM: Message edited by: fishchaser ]
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Old 03-01-2004, 01:28 PM   #131
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Boat Doc,

I want to replace the carb on my 2.3L OMC inboard.

A carb shop is trying to sell me a car carb but I think marine carbs may be a bit different. I heard marine carbs have different floats.

Anything else different between a marine carb and one for a car?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-01-2004, 02:02 PM   #132
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fishchaser, sounds like the idle circuit is plugged. You can try removing the idle mixture screw and blowing air or something pressurized - carb cleaner, wd40 or? into the hole. Reinstall the jet and adjust it 2 turns out from a lightly seated position. Run it hard for a few minutes and see if it works. If it still doesnt work you need to remove carb and disassemble and clean it thoroughly. This is done by removing the fast idle linkage from the front and then unbolt the carb and take it apart. It sounds complicated but its not.

Phil Layer, You must use a marine carb. Differences are the lack of vacuum ports for auto accessorys and more importantly the marine carb vents into the throttle body instead of externally.
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Old 03-01-2004, 04:31 PM   #133
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Hi Boat Doc. I have an 01 Yamaha 250 Saltwater series with a prop. I took it in to a mechanic last fall to have the cavitation plate fixed (it was cracked from hitting a log) and they took the lower unit off and fixed it.

I was using the boat recently, running at cruising speed and the motor shut down completely and would not go into gear. I was able to restart it on the second try, but it sounded bad and wouldn't shift. Took it in to the mechanic today and he admitted he forgot to put oil back in the lower unit and it seized up. He said he'd order a new lower unit for me and fix it for free.

My question is - is it possible that it damaged the engine or any other part of the motor by running it without gear oil in it? When it started up again could it have damaged the drive shaft? I'm thinking about getting a new motor (going to a 4 stroke) but wanted to know if I have anything to worry about if I keep the old motor?

Oh - and this is a very good and reputable mechanic, he just made an honest mistake.

[ 03-02-2004, 08:21 AM: Message edited by: Killertraylor ]
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Old 03-01-2004, 04:47 PM   #134
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Dear Boat Doc,

I've got a new 2004 15hp Merc Four Stroke on a 15' Smokercraft Alaskan. I'm 2 1/2 hours into the break in. The motor starts missing and cutting out at 3/4 throttle, starts gradually and gets worse as you increase throttle. I would guess my boat speed is in the high teens to twenty when it happens. Is there any chance it's hitting the rev limiter? Someone else suggested it may be a lean miss.

As I'm in Hood River it's not easy to get it to Stevens Marine. Is there a jet adjustment I can make if it is a lean miss and how would I do that? Pulling the cover off and looking at the carb I don't see any obvious jet screws.

Thanks,
Dale
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Old 03-02-2004, 10:32 AM   #135
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killertrayler. If there was damage to the drive shaft you would probably see the splines twisted. I would expect the damage is confined to the gearcase and there shouldn't be any other problems.

Dale, I would agree that you are bumping the rev limiter. A larger pitch prop should cure the problem.
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Old 03-02-2004, 01:03 PM   #136
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Doc, my father in law recently backed in the drive with the kicker down and proceeded to rip the lower unit nearly off the head. It was a '89 or 90 Mercury 5-hp in excellent working condition, low hours. I took it to the local boat shop and was told, its worth nothing, leave it here with us if you want. Later, I heard about Outboard Salvage and some other salvage dealers and wonder: should I get my head back or was it really worthless; what would the cost for a used lower head and installation run (in round #'s of course). Thanks
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Old 03-07-2004, 07:47 PM   #137
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Doc,
I have a '96 9.9 Merc 4 stroke. As of last fall it started what seemed like overheating. The boat has a hot water box. After about 4 to 5 hrs of trolling it starts to steam and spit very little water into the basin. Does this sound like thermostat, if so where the heck is it and what is it's replacement? Any other possibilities? Thanks for your help in advance.
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Old 03-07-2004, 09:12 PM   #138
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Corkyking again:

I haven't been able to use the boat (2001 Al Intruder 175 SJ) since August. I put some Sta-Bil in it in Sept. and have fired and idled it a couple of times this winter.

I'm thinking that I should change the fuel filter before I fire it again. Yes? How often should that filter (the one bolted to the transom) be changed? Is there anything else that I should change before I operate it again??
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Old 03-08-2004, 11:30 PM   #139
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moman, Cost will very greatly depending on what is broke. normally the swivel bracket breaks, you would be looking about 300.00 installed. Used parts may be available at least half of new.

Backlash, It sounds more like the water pump. You should inspect it also. The thermostat is located on top of the block at the rear

corkyking, the fuel filters should be changed at least annually. Also the gear oil should be changed annually also. Spark plugs should be changed around 300 hours
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Old 03-09-2004, 02:57 PM   #140
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Boat Doc,
Thanks for taking your time to answer all these questions.
A two part question. I recently installed a fuel flow meter and instructions said to have 3/8 fuel line into and out from the fuel flow transducer. This I did however, all the other fuel lines are 5/16. Will this cause any back pressure or any other problems. It also suggest that the meter be installed to the ignition switch of my 115 Yamaha 4 stroke. Is this something that is easily accomplished? If so how?
Thank you again for your time.
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Old 03-09-2004, 06:58 PM   #141
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Boat Doc,

I've operated several (2) newer ('96&2000) 50 HP Merc 2-strokes both of which had a harsh vibration at about 3/4 throttle. Back off on the throttle and they smooth right out, or keep opening it up and they smooth out also. They seemed to idle and run just fine other than that vibration at 3/4 open.

Is this just a characteristic of this particular motor or does it indicate something that needs attention?

P.S.-Thanks a bunch for doing this "Boat Doc Forum". It is much appreciated.

[ 03-09-2004, 08:01 PM: Message edited by: WillFish ]
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Old 03-10-2004, 02:19 PM   #142
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Cast N' Blast, Could be one of a few minor problems. With the cover off locate the enrichener valve. If you push in on the key you will here it click. Look for fuel leaks from the hoses that go to it when activated and repair as necessary. If you don't hear it click make sure the wires are attached. If it still doesn't work check for voltage to it. most common problems in order are, split hoses, wires not hooked up, bad ignition switch and enrichener itself. Warning horn could be going bad which is why it isn't as loud or key switch could cause it also.
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Old 03-10-2004, 11:14 PM   #143
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Downlake, I would check with the manufacturer on recommended hose size. I did check with Flo Scan and they use a 1/4 pipe fitting of whatever hose size you have. Doesn't matter if its 1/4, 5/16 or 3/8. As far as power supply you can wire it to an accessory switch, you just need to remember to turn it on and off and have currect amperage fuse installed.
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Old 03-10-2004, 11:22 PM   #144
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WillFish, It is common to have a transition area where the carbs are going from low to high speed circuits. You can check the synchronization of the throttle linkage and spark advance but it will always be there to some degree. You can go a little slower or a little faster and it will go away. It doesnt hurt anything.
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Old 03-10-2004, 11:27 PM   #145
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Boatdoc, I've got a 115horse80jet tiller handle on an Alumaweld purchased in '96 or '97 from Stevens. I recently had some carb work done on it and that fixed a problem I was having when up to speed but it is real hard starting like it isn't getting primed. One other thing to note is that when the key turns to prime position it is only a faint "beep" now compared to what it used to be when it seemed to be priming right. Is there an easy fix or is there another problem you see? Thanks.
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Old 03-13-2004, 09:51 PM   #146
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Thanks for doing this. It's great.

Sorry for the long post below.

I have a 94 Bayliner 1950 Classic with a 3.0liter Mercruiser. Not the LX. I also have a 2003 8hp Yamaha 4stroke kicker. I have installed a water filter on the main fuel line from the below deck tank to the main engine. I have also installed a second fuel line off the filter to the kicker. On the line to the kicker I also installed a anti-siphon valve at the filter. The fuel line to the kicker, because of how I routed it, is about 8ft. long. Then I have the bulb, about 1ft of hose then the male fuel line connector. All that is 3/8 fuel hose. Then I have a female connector, a 5/16 fuel line then the female connector that connects to the engine. The 5/16 line is approx. 18" long.

My problem is I cannot get the bulb to pump up, not even firm. Even after pumping on it for more then 10 minutes. Also when I run the kicker at anything more than about 1/3 throttle for more than a minute or two the kicker will almost die due to fuel starvation and it sucks the bulb flat. I can keep the engine running by throttling back and feathering the throttle until it recovers. If I keep the throttle less than 1/3 it runs great but it sucks the bulb to almost flat.

My guess is I have too long of a line. Originally I had 6 feet of 5/16 hose and the bulb line diameter was 5/16 also. I have installed a new bulb with bigger line diameter and the shorter 51/6 line mentioned above but that did not fix the problem.

Can I install and in-line electric fuel pump between the filter and the kicker? I am thinking of one for an older import type vehicle that still had carbs. This way the pressure the pump produced should be low enough. And I could put in a pressure regulator between the pump and the kicker if needed.

Or do you have another solution. I can't really shorten the fuel line length because of where I have to run the line through the engine compartment to where the kicker is. I am looking into a through hull fitting that way I might be able to remove about 2 to 3 feet of line length but I don't think that will fix it either.

Thanks for any suggestions you can give.

Again sorry for the really long post.
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Old 03-14-2004, 08:59 AM   #147
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Great info! Here's my question:

I have twin 1992 Yamaha 200's. I recently had the powerhead off of the starboard motor to have the shift rod replaced. Engine runs and shifts great. Problem is the engine is now pulling oil out of the reservoir under the cowling, not out of the main reservoir on the boat. Once the reservoir under the cowling gets low, I get the alarm. (about 20 miles of running) I've checked for kinks and can't find any.

Does this motor use a oil pump, or just vacuum? Airlock? Suggestions to get it pulling oil from the main reservoir?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-14-2004, 09:53 AM   #148
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i was given a 15hp johnson 1992 never been started ever. what should i do to break it in...change gear lube? plugs? etc.....what size boat will this motor push to plane? thanks for any help
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Old 03-14-2004, 11:27 PM   #149
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[ 03-15-2004, 01:12 AM: Message edited by: foursalt ]
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Old 03-15-2004, 12:10 AM   #150
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Boat Doc I have a 92 8hp mer. The gear lube has
water mixed in,lower seal is bad I think.
Can I replace,if I can how.
I'm sure there's seals on the top too.
I think I should replace them too.
Do you carry the parts.
If I can't do it
can I just pull off the lower unit
and bring it in to be fixed.how must $.
thank you for the help.
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Old 03-15-2004, 09:08 AM   #151
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My kicker is a 20 hp Johnson '94 and it gets water in the lube fairly quick. Same questions as four salt, what manual to use? I am fair with a wrench, just slow.
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Old 03-15-2004, 12:23 PM   #152
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Conspiracy Theory, first you need to get rid of the check valve on the filter. There is already one on the fuel tank unless it was removed. If that doesn't work you need to find a restriction that is located between the primer bulb and the fuel tank. Electric fuel pump shouln't be necessary but if you do install one regulate it to 3 psi. Be careful to use a Coast Guard approved pump.

Nalu, the oil is supplied to the engine tank by a electric pump. Double check the wiring, I would guess it was disconnected and not hooked back up.

Prawnman, I would double mix the oil for the first tank and vary your throttle settings about every ten minutes avoiding sustained full throttle for the first tank of fuel. Also check gear oil to make sure it is full. When you first start it make sure it isn't overheating.You can wait on fluid and plug changes until around 100 hrs. or annually.

Four Salt, If it is leaking out of the lower seal you need a special tool. We stock common parts. If you brought the lower in expect to pay about 100.00 to replace one or two seals. We would normally pressure test the unit and replace only the seal that is leaking instead of all of them.

Chrome Bumper, The after market manuals should give you adequate info on changing your seals. We don,t have access to parts for those motors. Try Staffs or?
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Old 03-15-2004, 01:47 PM   #153
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Boat doc:

I've got a 94 6hp yamaha kicker that I recently purchased. The guy I bought it from said that he just had a new water pump installed. I've noticed that it only puts out cold water, even if I've been trolling for over an hour. Is this a sign of a bad thermostat? Reason I noticed it was because I was thinking about running the water to a tank, but cold water wasn't exactly what I had in mind....
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Old 03-15-2004, 02:50 PM   #154
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NWRedside, The discharge water would normally be cold. To get hot water you would have to get it off the block. There should be an anode that screws into the block. Remove the zinc and drill and tap the plug.
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Old 03-15-2004, 10:51 PM   #155
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Boat Doc,
The reason I placed a anti-syphon valve at the filter on the kicker line was so when the main engine is running it would not suck the fuel out of the kicker line. From the tank to the filter they share the same main line. This was suggested by Brown's Landing when I purchased the kicker.

So I guess I am asking - I don't need the anti-syphon valve on the kicker fuel line or is this just for testing?

Thanks again for doing this help thread.
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Old 03-16-2004, 08:24 AM   #156
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Conspiracy Theory,The primer bulb has check valves in it that will prevent the big motor from pulling fuel from the troller. The primer bulb must be pointing at a uphill angle as the check valves are not spring loaded. With the check valve on the water seperator you are creating more vacuum than the motor can overcome.
The only problem you may run into is the trolling motor drawing from the main engine and running out of gas. To cure that you would install a check valve between the water seperator and the main engine. The main engine can handle the extra vacuum the troller cannot. If the primer still goes flat you may still have a restriction that needs to be identified. Hope this answers your questions.
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Old 03-16-2004, 10:23 AM   #157
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Boat Doc,
I've got a 90H Evinrude that has died on me again. This is the second time in 2 years that a ring on one of the pistons has blown and damaged the cylinder wall. It's an older model and will cost me another couple grand to repair if I decide to. Should I just bag this motor and get a new one and if so is there anything I can get for the old dead one? Also is there something that I might be doing wrong or is it just life. It is a two stroke so I thought maybe I'm not doing the mixture right or something?
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Old 03-16-2004, 10:48 AM   #158
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Boat Doc

I have a 23' Heliarc sled with a 454 and an American Turbin pump. This boat is made by Ernnie Duckworth after he sold out maybe you are familar with this. Anyway, after putting accesories and on back of boat, kicker, cooler, extra battery, etc., the boat doesn't plane as quickley. It also tends to porpoise and not stay on plane as well as before. What do you suggest? trim tabs of some sort?

Thanks
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Old 03-16-2004, 02:46 PM   #159
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Fisherman87, what you are describing isn't that uncommon for any brand of older engine. What usually happens is the piston ring locating pin falls out allowing the ring to rotate and catch on a port or detonation from an engine designed to run on 80's fuel trying run on todays reformulated gasoline. Thats the reason todays outboards typically are higher displacement with lower compression ratios to have the same power. I would recommend replacement mainly because everything but the new parts you rebuild with are going to fail sooner than later.

Heliarc Runner, Best thing for you to do is go with hydraulic trim tabs, that way you can adjust boat attitude for various sea conditions and weight distribution.

Chillybones, sounds like you need to richen up the carbs a hair, try backing out the mixture screws 1/8 turn and maybe increase the idle speed a little. If you have a tach your looking for around 700 rpm in gear.

Jen, thanks for the kind words. Everything A-OK on my end. How about you, any requests?
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Old 03-16-2004, 03:30 PM   #160
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Boat Doc... My 350 chev with a 4-barrel Holley dies when I go to neutral.. everytime !!! It's a jet and so as neutral as I can get ..idle adjustment or time for a rebuild !?! thx much !!!!!!!
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Old 03-16-2004, 05:40 PM   #161
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b.d. thank you very much. i don't know how anyone else feels ,but as for me "you da man". i know how much time ansewering all the posts must take!! [img]graemlins/program.gif[/img] c.b.

[ 03-16-2004, 06:41 PM: Message edited by: chillybones ]
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Old 03-16-2004, 11:04 PM   #162
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I wanted to thank BoatDoc and Stevens Marine again and yes Jennie I think this is a great idea very worthy of placement on the front page of Ifish.

Boat Doc, yes it answers my questions and thanks for the help. I haven't had the opportunity to try it yet but I will soon.
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Old 03-16-2004, 11:31 PM   #163
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boat doc, i have a 85 hp force outboard , starts and runs great once its warm. however sometimes even when warm ,as i go from nutral to forward ,a chug and then dies. starts up ok , but it's like i have to try and sneak it into gear. any ideas? thanks chillybones

[ 03-16-2004, 12:32 PM: Message edited by: chillybones ]
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Old 03-16-2004, 11:32 PM   #164
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc\' Forum

By the way, I have declared the "dear boat doc" a resounding success!
Do you have any suggestions to make it better?
If you ever lose the thread, go to the front page of ifish, and click on it. I thought it worthy of front page mention. Don't you? I think it's awesome! :smile:

Thanks, Stevens!

Jen
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Old 03-17-2004, 07:27 AM   #165
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Boat Doc -- I have a '99 Merc 40 (4 stroke) The problem is when I am running 3/4 to full throttle for a few minutes and then back off to slow down, it just cuts out and stalls. It seems to happen only when I cut back fast and then it starts right back up. Any ideas? Thanks AW
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Old 03-17-2004, 09:55 AM   #166
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Boat Doc - Great to have you aboard. I have a quick question for you. I have a '99 North river sport jet & as of late the transducer for the depth finder has been acting up. During the summer I keep it moored in the Willammette & I pull it out in the winter. It began acting up when I put it back in the water to chase some sturge earlier this month and now I cant get a reading at all. It began by tripping off at high speed & then just quit reading at all. I have reached back there & flipped it up & down but no luck. When I pulled it out of the water It registered 1.1' - Go figure. All of the other functions on the fish finder work well. The type of Finder is a Lowrance.

Does it need to be replaced & if so how do I go about doing that? Could it have been damaged by the cold weather this winter? - I keep it covered but not heated. Would a small amount of alge build up or a few small barnicles send it out of whack?

Thank you for your help,

Tako
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Old 03-17-2004, 09:56 AM   #167
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Boat Doc - Great to have you aboard. I have a quick question for you. I have a '99 North river sport jet & as of late the transducer for the depth finder has been acting up. During the summer I keep it moored in the Willammette & I pull it out in the winter. It began acting up when I put it back in the water to chase some sturge earlier this month and now I cant get a reading at all. It began by tripping off at high speed & then just quit reading at all. I have reached back there & flipped it up & down but no luck. When I pulled it out of the water It registered 1.1' - Go figure. All of the other functions on the fish finder work well. The type of Finder is a Lowrance.

Does it need to be replaced & if so how do I go about doing that? Could it have been damaged by the cold weather this winter? - I keep it covered but not heated. Would a small amount of alge build up or a few small barnicles send it out of whack?

Thank you for your help,

Tako
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Old 03-19-2004, 12:19 PM   #168
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<font color="red"> Copy from the old board </font>

Posted by Boat Doc' (Member # 6426) on 03-19-2004, 09:57 AM:

Swampy, Assuming the engine is in good mechanical condition and the points- if equipted and timing are set correctly check the mixture adjustments and idle speed around 700 rpm. If it still does it then you probably need a carb overhaul

Arrah Wanna84, there is some adjustments that could be checked by a dealer such as dash pot adjustment, carb balance and idle speed. You might save several bucks by trying to decelerate slowly.

Trout Tako, I would guess the transducer but check with Lowrance at 1-800-324-1356 M-F 8 - 5 central. They are really good at trouble shooting there product
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Old 03-19-2004, 03:04 PM   #169
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Boat Doc,

I was just in a friends Rogue Marine boat and he is able to start his sport jet in forward and reverse not just nuetral like my Intruder is set up to do. Can my controls be modified to do this as well? The engine in my intruder also dies intermitantly when warm when moving from forward to reverse or just into nuetral from idle. Any Ideas?

My boat is a 2000 Alumaweld Intruder with a 175hp sport jet.

Thanks,
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Old 03-22-2004, 08:28 AM   #170
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Great White Buffaloe, There is a neutral safety switch that must be hooked up to prevent the motor from starting in gear. It is NOT recommended to bypass it. With it not hooked up it will start in any gear at any throttle setting. So far as dieing when shifted I would guess the idle speed is to slow. You should see around 1100 rpm.
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Old 03-22-2004, 12:16 PM   #171
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Hey Boat Doc, are you at the Tigard, or Millwaukie shop? I wanted to bring my boat in for some work on my kicker, and a wash down pump install. I also would like to get your name. If you want to remain anonymous, feel free to e-mail or PM me.

Thanks, John.
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Old 03-22-2004, 12:31 PM   #172
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Boat Doc,
I have Custom Weld with ATJ 312 Pump. It's a single lever with Best Reverse. Reverse thrust is poor to say the least. Heard about the Xstream bucket that is made for the ATJ309, can it be used on the 312 and is the thrust better? Is their much advantage in changing bucket? Thanks in advance for your response.
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Old 03-22-2004, 08:28 PM   #173
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Today I took my Zodiac out, i have a 1999 Yamie 15hp. Its a tiller handle model. When i shifted the gear to "forward" the handle on the tiller wouldnt turn past half throttle.. So basically i had to troll all day, whioch i dont mind, but it would be nice to be able to go fast again. heh... I noticed whenever I would pull start thee engine, the rope would able to be pulled, and if i were to shift the gears in "forward" position then i wouldnt be able to pull the "pull start" rope. but now i am able to pull the rope, and cant go past half throttle.
Basically the engine still "thinks" its in nuetral.. Even when i shift the gear to "forward"
Hopefully someone can help me out here, i wanna get a springer, this spring break. I dont want to have to get it professionally fixed

Thank you, and Tight lines, Dylan
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Old 03-23-2004, 09:26 AM   #174
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John, You can catch me at the Tigard location. Just drop me a line and ask for the boat doc. By the way, it doesnt look like your e-mail info is set up.
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Old 03-23-2004, 09:43 AM   #175
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Swim Shady, They currently make a kit for your pump that includes a dual lever shifter with cable and bucket. They run about 1200.00. They are working on a kit for your control that would run about half that. Projected availability is June or July.
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Old 03-23-2004, 10:08 AM   #176
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Dylan, I am not that familiar with that model, however there has to be some mechanical linkage that has slipped or come loose. If you can't see it then you would probably have to take it to a dealer. Or try the discussion board and see if any body else has experienced the problem
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Old 03-24-2004, 12:18 AM   #177
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Boat Doc,

I have a 93 18' Alumaweld Intruder (from Stevens) that the fuel sensor/gauge assemblies are tied into the navigation lights. I'm told this was standard...at least for this year. The fuel gauge doesn't work, although everything else on that circuit/switch seems to work okay. It acts like a dead short (pegs out bellow empty) no matter the tank level. I've replaced or cleaned any corroded connections, with no results. My guess would be that the fuel tank sensor assembly itself is bad, but am tempted to just replace both sensor and switch.

-Would you suggest replacing both switch and sensor?
-Is that a fairly commonly replaced part(s)?
-It would appear fairly simple to switch out the level sensor, but would like your opinion on that please?
-If you agree, is it best I bring in the old unit(s) to match it up? or does a phone call typically do the job on ordering the replacement sensor and switch?

thank you for helping us all!
I assure you, we appreciate it.
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Old 03-24-2004, 08:52 AM   #178
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Mr Boat Doctor.
I have a serious question about my 150 hp. Optimax.
I posted the question on the ifish community forum and again on the Salty dogs ,, I just got the link to this thread.
If you can read the Question from the other forums and give a reply it would be great. Thanks much. Chris
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Old 03-24-2004, 09:37 AM   #179
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PlugnAway, the sender is the most common component to fail, if you let us know the depth of the tank we can fix you up over the phone. The way to check it is to turn on the power to the gauge. jump between the sender wire and ground wire post on the tank. The gauge should peg itself. If it does the sender is bad or misadjusted. If it doesnt then the wiring or gauge is haywire. Make certain you do NOT apply power to the sender wire!
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Old 03-24-2004, 09:45 AM   #180
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Chris, there is a few things that could cause rpm loss and a solid horn. Make sure you fix the problem before you run it.
overheat- water pump
overspeed-prop hub or under propped
air compresser overheat- plugged water supply to compresser
low water pressure-water pump
engine oil reservoir at critical level- refill and verify supply

Hope this helps, check the above if you dont find the problem you would have to take it to a dealer, they or we have the computer to hook up for pinpoint diagnostics
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