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Old 01-05-2004, 09:11 AM   #61
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Bluetick, sounds like you have two problems, to stay at high rpm the linkage has to be sticking. Either the throttle butterflys or the spark advance linkage is hanging up. For the idle problem it sounds like the accelerator pump check valves are not functioning correctly on the side of the block. Also the synch and link adjustments should be checked to make sure they are in specs. If the check valves are the cause of the fluctuating idle you can pinch off the hoses going to them to verify.

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Old 01-05-2004, 09:56 AM   #62
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Howdy Boat Doc'! Thanks for the opportunity to ask questions. Here's mine, that I also posted under a Sportjet topic recently.

Last month my wife bought a used 20' Alumaweld Intruder for me. It's a '99, with a 175 Sportjet. It's replacing a 18' Fishrite with a 150 pump (great boat, no problems, just 2footitis). Twice now, I've trailered in "freezing weather" to the launch only to discover both the steering and throttle cables to be frozen. After an hour soaking in the water, they free up and work fine, but I can't believe this is normal. I'm assuming water is entering the cables somewhere, then not draining out. Last week the boat was stored in a heated shop for 5 days, then trailered to the launch and they were still froze up. I'm not too concerned, just annoyed. Any ideas on where to start?

Thanks again BD!!!!
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Old 01-05-2004, 03:40 PM   #63
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Snit, Both the steering and shift cable are under water where they pass thru the jet, they are supposed to be protected from water intrusion by a rubber bellows that clamps around each one at both ends. They are visible from the back of the boat. I would guess they are missing or torn.
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Old 01-05-2004, 04:15 PM   #64
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Thanks BD!!!!! I noticed they're both there (bellows), but in different place, like they're torn kinda like cv boots do. How tuff is is to get new ones and install them?
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Old 01-05-2004, 04:20 PM   #65
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GRB I ran one on my White Water kicker for years 11 to be exact and had no problums at all. If you want some more information let me know.
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Old 01-05-2004, 05:02 PM   #66
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Hey --- This Boat Doc guy is good!!!
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Old 01-06-2004, 01:56 PM   #67
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Snit, They are easy to change, just disconnect the ends of the cables and they slide off and on. Our parts guys can help you get new ones or your local dealer
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Old 01-06-2004, 02:07 PM   #68
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BD, you're the best!!! Thanks so much, I'll investigate more, but I'm sure that's my problem.
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Old 01-07-2004, 06:37 AM   #69
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First, thanks for your interest in answering our questions it is much appreciated.

175 Sport Jet questions:

Is there a device for determining fuel consumption? We'd all like to run the RPMs that give us the best return. Perhaps a vacuum guage or some other kind?

If there isn't a meter or guage what would you suggest we do to get the best fuel consumption?

What about trim tabs for lower speed plane and better fuel consumption?

If a good tune-up is the only answer then how can we tell that we have a good one?
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Old 01-07-2004, 06:54 AM   #70
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[img]graemlins/applause.gif[/img] the boat doc [img]graemlins/applause.gif[/img]
ok my turn I have an older 9.8horse merc kicker motor, the mount is broken,I have a lower unit off another motor with a good mount and want to replace just the mount the other lower unit is off posibly a smaler motor since the trim is a bit smaller,but the mount is an exact match aparently the power head has to be removed to perform this swap because the linckage runs through the mount.Is this a job that could be performed fairly easy by your avg. shade tree type mechanic.I've been advised to have a shop take care of it for me do to some seals that may need replaced when I dissasemble it any input would be greatly apreciated.
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Old 01-07-2004, 07:55 AM   #71
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Doc - When I dont foresee running the trolling motor for more than several weeks with my early 80's honda trolling motor I usually unplug the gas line and run the motor until the motor dies from lack of gas. It seems to me that I dont want gas to be getting old in the motor, is this bad thinking or am I doing wrong? What would you recommend, run the motor dry or store with fuel in the system?
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Old 01-07-2004, 11:33 AM   #72
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corky king, there is a meter that measures fuel flow, its called Flo Scan. They are relatively expensive- in excess of 200.00. Your optimum cruising speed would be as slow as possible and still maintaining a plane. Based on my experience your consumption would be roughly 6 gallons per hour at cruising speed and up to 17 at wide open throttle. Trim tabs will lower your planing speed but in increasing the drag your throttle setting would probably increase. As for the tune if it idles well and you havn't lost any top end rpm then you have a good one. The main thing would be the condition of the pump, if you don,t plane as quickly as you did in the past or you dont have the top speed you used to have then the impeller, liner and intake should be inspected for damage or excessive clearance.

TonTo, if you are referring to the swivel bracket you should be able to change out your parts with just a few gaskets.

Bait o eggs. I would recommend running the fuel out of anything that would be sitting over 30 days, especially four strokes. We see a lot of carbs plugged with residue that is the result of evaporated fuel. The four strokes are more prone to this because the orifices are much smaller than 2 strokes
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Old 01-07-2004, 01:28 PM   #73
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boat doc,
I have a 93 yamaha 200 "jet drive" outboard, can I conver this to a prop drive with a new lower unit? if so, is it as simple as a new lower unit or does the linkage need to change as well?

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Old 01-07-2004, 03:48 PM   #74
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Boat Doc,

I have a 6hp Merc.(95) and I been having a little problem with it. Once the motor is warmed up and I'm cruising at full throttle, the motor will idle down so I back off and then it seems to be ok until I give it full throttle again. It doesn't seem to have a problem when I run it with the choke on but I'm guessing that's not good.

I keep the tank vent open and my fuel line has no cracks (it's new)I do notice the primer goes soft when the motor starts to idle down.

How can I fix this problem?

Thanks for reading
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Old 01-07-2004, 04:12 PM   #75
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Boat Doc.

I built and installed a hot water box for my boat, and installed a thermostat in the kicker, a 96
8 hp 2 stroke Merc., I want to drill and tap the water housing and install a valve for the flow of water to the box. My question is where do I drill the hole, I am thinking that if it is too low and I have the flow to my box too high I may starve the top cylinder from the cooling water. Is that an issue or should I just drill the hole as high as practical?

Thanks.
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Old 01-07-2004, 06:06 PM   #76
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Dear Mr Boat Doc,

How long will 2 cycle and fuel stabilizer by themselves last for on the shelf?


By The Way, thanks alot for taking the time to answer these problems. I hope we are not overwhelming you. I will not forget your help here.
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Old 01-08-2004, 02:08 PM   #77
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Goog Karma, There is 7 inches difference between a pump versus a prop. You need to be 7 inches longer. What I would recommend is the installation of 5 inch spacer kit which of course leaves 2 inches left. Take it out and run it, if it doesnt cavitate excessively on acceleration and in turns then you can leave it alone. If it does see if you can get a stainless prop, that may make it acceptable. If you still are not happy with it you would need to lower the motor 1 1/2 to 2 inches. you can do this by lowering the motor- it may be necessary to notch the transom or install a jack plate which gives you the ability to vertically raise and lower the motor. They are available in both manual and hydraulic versions.
If you have a forward helm you wouldnt need to change any linkage other than moving the shift cable to its attaching point inside cowl. If you have a tiller you would have to modify the shift linkage.

big n bright, It sounds like you have some debris floating around in your float bowl. I would recommend getting a gasket kit for the carb and cleaning it thoroughly. If you still have a problem it may be the exhaust tube is plugged with carbon. You would need to pull the powerhead to chisel it out. A sign of that being the case would be if you see large exhaust bubbles coming out of the prop when idling in gear

jetsled1, When you install a thermostat on these engines the pee hole operates only as the thermostat opens and closes. If you disconnect that hose where it attaches to the thermostat housing and route it to your hot box you won't need to drill into the block. The only problem may be at low speed you won't have enough water flow to keep tank full. If that is the case you can run it hard for a couple of minutes to fill the box with hot water.

fishing is life, To my knowledge there is no expiration on additives and two cycle oil. If sitting for long periods I would shake them before using. They say that treated fuel can go bad in 6 months.
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Old 01-24-2004, 07:30 PM   #78
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Boat Doc

I have a 2001 Mercury 9.9 with electric start. Sometimes when I go to start the engine it acts like there is no power at all getting to the starter. It did this to me today and I tried shifting in and out of gear to get it going to no avail. After I got the boat home it worked just fine. Any help would be appreciated.
TV
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Old 01-24-2004, 10:05 PM   #79
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Boat Doc:

I have a '92 Merc 40 with power tilt. One tilt switch is on the throttle handle, the other is on the side of the motor below the cowl. The switch on the motor is extremely sensitive. The lightest touch will trigger it, and sometimes it will raise and lower the motor all by itself.

As postor boy for the School for the Mechanically Declined, I am wondering whether this is a user-replaceable part? Do you have any idea what a replacement switch might run?

Thanks for all the tips you have provided.
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Old 01-26-2004, 01:43 PM   #80
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Taylors viewpoint, the first thing to check would be the battery connections. The components of the system are the battery and connections,starter switch, relay, neutral safety switch and the starter itself. Checking for power or bypassing each of these components will lead you to the problem. The most common problem is loose connections.

Old coot, The switch on the motor needs to be replaced. It is easily changed by unplugging a couple of color coded wires and remo9ving a retainer clip. Cost is about 60.00- or just disconnect it.
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Old 01-29-2004, 10:45 AM   #81
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hey boat doc
I am having troubles with a merc classic fifty from 1987 (4 cylinder) Starts ok but the second it goes into gear it just putters out, no power at all. I have had the carbs rebuilt 2 times , the fuel pump once, removed it from the main fuel tank to a remote, have good spark on all four and good compression. It has been run with the autoblend for its life and seems to get too much oil (I am removing it) and smokes alot...could I have an exhaust blockage? once in a while it will perk up and run like mad, only to go limp again on a restart. The mechanic working on it now wants to replace both carbs, but how bad can they be? he says fuel back flows out an air vent into the throat at throttle up and floods it out...could this be caused by exhaust blockage causing overpressure to the crankcase fuel pump? is there a way to check without removing the power head other then the bubble test?
thanks for any advice

[ 01-29-2004, 10:58 AM: Message edited by: BrownTrout ]
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Old 01-29-2004, 01:08 PM   #82
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Brown Trout, I have seen those motors plug with carbon. You can check by removing the lower unit and looking up inside with a flashlight. Another possible problem may be reed valves. With it in the water idling look for fuel spraying from the carbs towards the front. If that is okay you can unplug the fuelline and see if the motor runs good as it runs out of gas. If it does it would point to fuel pump diaphragm or carbs. Make sure you check for exhaust blockage and reeds first.
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Old 01-29-2004, 01:24 PM   #83
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Boat Doc,

Thanks for doing this forum.

I have a 1932 Johnson 4 hp Model A 50 that ran when I last hung it in the garage twenty years ago. Is there anything I should do to clean the old gas completely out of the system (or other maintenance task) before I put in fresh gas mixture and try to fire it up again?

I may have to press this motor back into service since my father-in-law wants his 1952 Evinrude back.

TC
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Old 01-29-2004, 01:32 PM   #84
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Hey Boat Doc, I have a Merc 8hp and my problem is when I'm in gear at backtrolling speed the motor seem like it loads up, idles down then puffs out a cloud of smoke and returns to normal trolling speed. When I bought the motor new in '01, I was told it was set for warm water temps of the Willy, and I might encounter what is called "lean popping".

That statement confuses me because it would seem to me that the motor is running rich and need to be leaned out, not richend up. I have tried leaning out the screw little increments at a time, with some improvemnt, but don't want to go to far and make to lean. Any help on this would be much obliged.
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Old 01-30-2004, 11:52 AM   #85
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Boat Doc, thanks for taking the time to answer ALL of our questions, especially on those pesky sport-jet starting situations. Another thread has been started concerning 2 stroke oils. Are all TC-W3 outboard oils equal? Merc. vs yama. vs havoline vs wal-mart? They're all TC-W3 grade, But price per quart verys greatly, so what's the difference?
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Old 01-30-2004, 01:04 PM   #86
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Boat Doc, I have a 97 6hp merc 2 stroke. When I use it at high rpm it sounds like the prop might be loose or or have a bad gear. I took it to a local shop and the put it in there tank and it wouldn't do it. So it sound like it is skipping a gear or something so what would cause this? It is a long shaft and it is on a 20 inch transom.
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Old 01-30-2004, 02:01 PM   #87
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Boat Doc.....

I have no questions, but I LOVE this thread, and thanks so much for your participation!

I love my Alumaweld, and guess who I bought her from??

Steven's Rocks! Thanks, Tim [img]graemlins/applause.gif[/img]
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Old 01-30-2004, 02:12 PM   #88
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Boat Doc,
What is your opinion on aftermarket 2-cycle oil as long as it is TC-W3 NMMA rated.Do the manufacturers brands warrant the extra cost in your opinion?

Thanks,
JB
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Old 01-30-2004, 02:54 PM   #89
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Tillamook Chinook,That thing belongs in a museum! However I would attempt to start it up. If it runs good use it. If it has varnish in the tank or carb you would have to physically remove it. The points may need to be cleaned.

drifterboy, What you are describing is fairly common and can be cured by drilling out and tapping the backdraft jet on the upper port side of the carb to a 10/32 thread. Install a .048 jet in the hole and it should be fine.

Chummer and downtime, All TCW-3 oils meet or exceed there rating. The more expensive oils I am told simply have more additives for added protection. Using off brand oils will not effect your warranty, as long as they meet the TCW-3 rating.

M.Russ1, It sounds as if it is cavitating, look to see that the ventilation plate is even with or below the bottom of the boat. If you do have a gear problem it should show up in the condition of the lower unit oil. Also push in and out on the prop if it moves more than 1/2 inch or so then you have a problem with gears.

timinthe gorge, thanks for the support!
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Old 01-30-2004, 03:14 PM   #90
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Boat Doc,

I'm having a problem with the boat. Is has a 5.0L mercruiser/ alpha 1. It was running fine 3 weeks ago but now when I try to get on a plane it sputters and back fires and will plane eventually ( spelling)... I'm thinking it could be timing but not sure. It runs smooth in neutral and it is having trouble shifting from neutral to reverse or forward (It dies) Oh ya it is a 1988. If you could help me out it would be great.

Thanks

1sf
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Old 01-30-2004, 04:12 PM   #91
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1 Smart Fish, sounds like your accelerator pump quit working.Withe engine not runnig remove the flame arrester, hold the choke plate open. Have someone slowly move the throttle lever forward, you should see a steady stream of fuel squirting from the venturi cluster into the throttle body. If you do not you need to rebuild the carb. If you do then look at other areas such as timing. I think its the carb.
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Old 01-30-2004, 05:30 PM   #92
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Thanks Doc
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Old 02-02-2004, 01:36 PM   #93
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Thanks Doc!!

TC
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Old 02-15-2004, 02:36 PM   #94
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Boat Doc:

I have a question about doing the electric fuel pump mod on the 175 hp sportjet. What I am wondering is if I do this mod, isn't the oil only injected into the fuel when the engine is turning over? What I am saying is that if by prepriming the carburation on the motor, am I putting unmixed fuel into the carburators by prepriming? If so would this cause pre mature engine wear? If you could give me an answer on this I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks Fish-addict

[ 02-15-2004, 02:38 PM: Message edited by: fish-addict ]
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Old 02-15-2004, 07:00 PM   #95
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Great column!!!

I have a 99 Thunderjet with a Kodiak three stage pump. The previous owner had run it in sandy bottom rivers.......and I assumed this was the problem when I bought it. It is very slugish out of the hole, but goes fine on plane. (Motor revs just fine!!) I am assuming sharpen the impellors and maybe new thrust bearing?? What would something like this cost and/or can I take the impellors out and have them sharpened and re-install myself??? I am pretty mechanically inclined, but there is piece of mind to have someone do it right. What else would you replace?

Thank you
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Old 02-16-2004, 01:26 PM   #96
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ttt
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Old 02-16-2004, 03:22 PM   #97
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boat doc this is my problem i rebuilt my carb on my 3.0 it is a mercarb after the rebuild it starts fine runs fine when i take off it sputers and some times it will backfire then it will go i set everything to the speks that the manual said to do it says to set my timing a 1 degree before top and at 700 rpm i changed it to 8 degrees but it still is having a problem but not as bad would it be ok to advace the timing more and i am getting black smoke when i starts. the back of my boat is turning black if you can help it would be great thanks BULLHUNTER
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Old 02-16-2004, 03:59 PM   #98
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fish-Addict, Yes you are correct,they rely on residual oil in float bowl and oil that puddles in crankcase after shutdown for lubrication. No different than any other Merc engine that is oil injected and has a primer bulb. The fuel starts to get mixed as soon as the engine starts to rotate. The folks at Mercury confirmed this for me. As far as damage to engine- only if you take a freshly primed engine and immediately run it hard. Ideal warm up period would be a minimim of appproximately 1 minute.

Green Machine, I would remove the rear pump housing and measure the clearance of the impellers as you remove them. Make sure you mark them and also make sure they are facing the correct way. New they are set up with about .030 overall clearance. .015 per side. They are considered worn when they exceed .030 per side. They can be remachined and the liners are replacable. These repairs can be done without removing the driveshaft. If you wanted to replace the bearing the driveshaft has to be removed, which on most boats also means an engine pull. If memory serves me right the impellers run about 200.00 each to be remachined. You need to tell them what size you want them. I dont have the info on where tosend them at this time. Let me know if you need it and I can track it down for you. The only other thing to look at would be the cutlass bearings and also the fins on the stator housings.
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Old 02-16-2004, 04:15 PM   #99
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Boat Doc,
I have a 87' Sea Ray with a 350 ci and a mercruiser out drive. Yhe engine sat fo about 7 or 8 years withou running because of a dry rotted hull. (nothing wrong with motor)The engine will over heat at an idle. If I rev the boat up to 1500 rpm it will cool right down. I have put a new pump in the out drive, a new pump on the motor, and a new t/stat. What else do I need to check. I do not know what else I should replace.


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Old 02-16-2004, 04:34 PM   #100
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bull-hunter29, It sounds like your choke is set to tight and possibly the float level is to high and or the possibilty that you missed something when it was cleaned.If you can get me the engine serial number I can check the specs for you. You may also have to go back inside and carefully clean all passages with a peice of wire.

Bigdog, The water supply hose from the bell housing to the transom plate may be damaged. It is located on the port side of outdrive, you can see it with the drive tilted up. with it running on a hose look for water leaking in the area of the hose or for it to be kinked. If that is ok I would also recheck the water pump- make sure that the rubber grommet that seals the water tube is in place. Also look carefully at the plastic housings- if they are melted they should be replaced.
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Old 02-16-2004, 05:33 PM   #101
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boat doc thanks for the info i talked to a few people today and they said that i need to time it with a shunt so iam going to pick one up in the morning and give it a try thanks
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Old 02-16-2004, 06:35 PM   #102
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Mr Boat doc. I have a 17" Willie drifter. Mounted my 8 horse Honda classic.
Trolls herring WAY too fast @ idle.
What would be the best solution?
Not really a mechanical question I know, but do you have advice on the proper trolling plate for this motor?
Not really a wind sock or bucket fan.
Thanks
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Old 02-17-2004, 02:11 PM   #103
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b-run, Happy troller makes a trolling plate that will fit your motor, the small one seems to provide adequate coverage. They run about 120.00.
There is others available, you might check with other people and see what they are using. Aso that motor should idle about 625 rpm in gear. You might check that if you are able.

fish hog1, If you have a valve by the tank close it for a minute or two then open it again. If you have hot water then you just need to regulate the flow thru the valve. If it is still cool then remove the thermostat and clean out debris or replace it. As faras the drain it seems as though it is clogged or kinked.
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Old 02-18-2004, 12:41 AM   #104
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boat doc, I have a 98 merc 9.9 4 stroke rigged to a factory hot pot in my 98 super vee. I did an oil change last week and now my water aint so hot. Also the pot is not draining properly out the stern and sometimes overflows in the boat. HELP! the fishhog.
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Old 02-23-2004, 09:01 AM   #105
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Doc
I have a 94 yamaha 115 outboard. Never had a problem with the motor in the past and have owned since new. I took the boat out right after our big freeze a month or so ago and after running it about 10 miles the motor dies. I find the problem to be an inline 30 amp fuse under the cowling between the battery and the motor. The fuse was not blown but rather the glass was cracked and the fuse just pulled apart. :whazzup: I thought maybe their was some moisture next to the fuse and the week of freezing weather cracked the glass

I have had the boat out a couple times with no problems.

Yesterday the same fuse blew on the river after running a couple miles. Any idea what might cause the fuse to blow. Fluke deal, or a short or ??? I didnt know I had a fuse there until it pulled apart the first time.

Stuck a new fuse in and it ran fine again.
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Old 02-23-2004, 10:11 AM   #106
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Bait o eggs, normally the problem you are seeing is caused by dirty or loose battery connections. I would remove and clean battery connections and tighten them with pliers. Also check engine battery cable connections the same way. Also remove fuse and inspect fuse holder for corrosion or melting and clean or replace as necessary.
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Old 02-23-2004, 10:13 AM   #107
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Thanks Doc, I just put a new battery in a few months ago, maybe I didnt get the cables tight, :whazzup: I will check that end.

Thanks
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Old 02-23-2004, 01:35 PM   #108
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Pete, As long as no alarms are sounding I would run it until the break-in period is up. Break-in is 120 minutes above 3000 rpm. Clock doesnt run below that.It sounds like you have a fouled plug but you might as well get off break-in to deal with it as it may do it again.
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Old 02-23-2004, 03:12 PM   #109
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First of all, THANKS for all the helpful information.
My Question is: I have an 86 Yamaha 150 pump....and the other day someone asked my when the last time I had the impeller "shimmed". I know it's been 6 or 8 years....is it time? It runs great and seems to have plenty of power, maybe a little loss out of the hole, but not a problem...Is this a "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" or do I need to have it done?...or can I do it?

Thanks, Dennis
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Old 02-23-2004, 08:10 PM   #110
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THis is great. My question is when I idle my outboard for a long period of time like ten minutes it will start to run out of fuel. I can speeze the bulb and it will be ok for another ten minutes. I changed the fuel pump, fuel filter and checked the pick up in the tank. It is a 95 150hp Merc. It runs great at any other time and starts great to. Some one said the the compression could be low and this could cause the fuel pump not to work as good at idle. The compression was good.
Thanks for the info.
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Old 02-24-2004, 12:53 AM   #111
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Hi Doc; got to run up my new 225 opti max for the second day yesterday and there is a pretty good miss at the 3000 to 3500 rpm range, but it is really pronounced right 3200. The motor has about 6 hours on it and was told to get at least 10 on it before I bring it in. I just don't want the heads running hot on me. BTW I'm running Texaco 89 octaine. What your opinion. Thanks Pete
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Old 02-24-2004, 09:35 AM   #112
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Dennis, If it ain't broke don't fix it is good advice, however a little preventative maintenance can prevent a sudden loss of thrust that may leave you aways from the boat ramp. Visually inspect the liner- the sleeve that the impeller rides in for pits. They can act like a anode and corrode away. Replace it if necessary. The symptoms of the impeller needing to be shimmed or sharpened would be slower planing time and an increase in rpm on acceleration and top end. We set them up for .010 to .015 clearance and sharpen the leading edge of the impeller from top to bottom - so it pulls water up instead of pushing it down. This is stuff you can easily do yourself. Note; the impeller may be stuck to the shaft, if so you would have to apply heat to remove it.

Jon t. It sounds like you covered everythig but the primer bulb. It has check valves inside to prevent the fuel from runnig out of the line at low speed. I would replace it and make sure that it is pointing upward, not laying flat or pointing downhill.
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Old 02-24-2004, 10:08 AM   #113
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Boat Doc,

Thanks for all the help. I have a 1984 70hp 2-stroke Yamaha. Good compression and runs like a champ but I notice at idle it sometimes "backfires". I don't know if "backfire" is the right choice of description but something between a backfire and a miss. The engine usually continues running like nothing happened but occasionally when at low idle, the "backfire" causes the engine to quit. The motor always easily restarts. Other than this, the engine runs flawlessly. Any ideas on cause of something like this? Is it safe to continue ignoring it? I've changed spark plugs a couple of times(they have always looked nice and clean) so I doubt that is it. Thanks for your advice.
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Old 02-24-2004, 08:08 PM   #114
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Boat Doc, I did replace the bulb. That was the first thing. I forgot, its been a couple years that I have been dealing with this. What about the line going to the tank in the front of the boat? 20' sled,when it happens I can hear the engine start to run funny and I just have to squeeze the bulb and it is good again. They said that it had good compression. If it was low would it cause this problem? I can check it myself. Just need the specs. Hot or cold? throttle open or closed? Thanks for the tips.

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Old 02-25-2004, 01:41 PM   #115
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Boat Doc, when I first got the boat the top of the resevoir on the engine was cracked and I replaced it and have had no other issues. I wouldn't know if it was not full unless I ran with out the top on the engine. I hope it has been staying full. When I replaced the resevoir I tried to see if the low oil buzzer was working but I didn't know the system. When I checked the screen in the tank the rubber line was a little loose going into the tank. I haven't ran the boat since I tightened it. Thanks Again.

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Old 02-25-2004, 02:18 PM   #116
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Jon T. It was just a thought, the oil tank uses crankcase pressure to pressurize the onboard tank which forces oil to the tank on the engine. The horn should sound when it gets about 1/3 empty if it is functioning.
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Old 02-25-2004, 02:37 PM   #117
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BoatDoc - great service you provide here.
I own a '98 17' Stryker, 75 hp Merc outboard prop, purchased it from your fine establishment, and one question I have not been able to find the answer on is.........How many gallons of fuel does the tank hold? The tank is under the deck. I can't find this info in my manuals, paperwork, or on your website.
Thanks!
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Old 02-25-2004, 03:58 PM   #118
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Boatdog, my book says 18 gallon
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Old 02-25-2004, 04:36 PM   #119
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Boat Doc.... I don't have a Big problem, but it's irritating! I have an '03 90hp Merc 2stroke O/I for my big motor, and on cold mornings, she'll start and die several times before she runs properly. And then she'll run all day without a problem..... I always push in the key for 10 seconds, before turning the switch, after making sure the bulb is hard.

Any advice BD?
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Old 02-25-2004, 05:06 PM   #120
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Hey there Boat doc,
I have a simple question here>>>> I have a 2002 Intruder, and my gas guage is not working??? It always reads full!! Is there a fuse or something causing this problem?? Thanks in advance,, Todd
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