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Old 01-24-2005, 07:45 AM   #601
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc\' Forum

It's standard thread, torque to 15 ft lbs

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Old 01-24-2005, 09:27 AM   #602
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc\' Forum

Dear Boat Doc,

I own a pair of MerCruiser 250hp D-tronic diesels. Over the weekend we found a problem
that required removing a couple of hoses which dumped a considerable amount of the
anti-freeze. The Merc manual specifies that I use Merc anti-freeze. Is there an after
market anti-freeze I can use for this application that will not void my warantee?

Thanks,
Mark L. Roberts
F/V Pacific Mistress
Depoe Bay, OR
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Old 01-24-2005, 11:06 AM   #603
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc\' Forum

Cummins now takes all the diesel calls for MerCruiser. Try them at Cummins NW. 503-289-0900
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Old 01-24-2005, 11:48 AM   #604
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc\' Forum

Thanks. I called Cummins and they sent me to thier local coastal rep and he sent
me to Newport Diesel. Got what I needed. Thanks again.

~assAssin~
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Old 01-25-2005, 05:31 PM   #605
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc\' Forum

Carb Popping,

BoatDoc,

Just to give you an update on the 155hp Suzuki that was having carb. problems. After disassembling the # 2 Carb, the mechanic found a small (1/8") tube that was broken. He replaced the tube (a $4.00) part and I took the boat out today and it appears to be running fine. This repair from hell took 5 months and after replacing some other parts earlier (now I wonder if they really needed replacing. The total repair was about $2,000.00. I think in the future, I'll be taking the motor to a authorized Suzuki repair facility who has the right diagnostic equipment.
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Old 01-25-2005, 08:24 PM   #606
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc\' Forum

While trolling we have the TR-1, depth finder, and a few other things running off the batteries.

I would like to have the 2002 9.9 Merc 4-stroke kicker tied into charge the batteries while trolling.

Is this possible? If it is, what should I purchase from Tigard Steven's?

Thank you

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Old 01-26-2005, 07:16 AM   #607
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You would need a wiring kit part #856558a2 it's in stock- about 36.00. The motor already has a 6 amp system, you just need to hook it to the battery. At slowest speeds it should at least keep up with battery draw and any speed above idle would be charging above draw.
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Old 01-31-2005, 11:40 AM   #608
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc\' Forum

regarding the battery/charger for our 2002 9.9 Mercury kicker.

I've been to Steven's and the part is on the kicker. We took it for a spin yesterday and everything seems to be working just fine.

Thank you for helping us out.

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Old 01-31-2005, 08:22 PM   #609
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc\' Forum

Boat Doc, I am new to this site, but it seems to be the best site around for technical problems and questions. Last year I bought one of Boice Jet's last boats prior to knowing the problems with them. After taking ownership I noticed there were no manuals. They promised to ship them to me and then....well, you know the rest of the story. My question is: Do you know where I can get a manual for a Vortec 6000? This is a link to the engine in my boat.
http://www.kemequipment.com/vortec6000.html I tried getting a hold of KEM for a manual, but got the run around. Also, the cylindar radiator on top of the engine should be full right? The plastic overflow bottle is at the right capacity, but when I open the cylindar, It is a little low. I am assuming a good quality antifreze mixed 50-50 with water. Thanks for your time.
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Old 02-01-2005, 07:14 AM   #610
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Ok Doc,
This is my first boat, the motor is a 1978 Johnson 70hp, I had some work done to it last year and it has been running great, then last summer, I was out fishing and when I went to leave it wouldnt fire up, it just backfired and nothing. then the key wouldnt even turn it over(Like no power) So I pulled the cover off and tried to jump the solinoid and it would only fire andshortly after backfire & die. do you think this could be in the control handle ar is it something else? any help would be nice.

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Old 02-01-2005, 08:11 AM   #611
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there is a manual, we will have it wed - cost you what it cost me, nothing. contact the tigard parts department wed afternoon and they can ship it to you or hold it for pickup. The coolant level is ok at 1 inch or so bewlow the neck, it will expand when hot.
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Old 02-01-2005, 08:29 AM   #612
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so far as the key not functioning it sounds like the fuse may have blown or bad or loose battery cables or connections. the running issue sounds like it is either out of gas, comtaminated gas or if it backfires without running possibly a sheared flywheel key.
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Old 02-01-2005, 04:05 PM   #613
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Quote:
there is a manual, we will have it wed - cost you what it cost me, nothing. contact the tigard parts department wed afternoon and they can ship it to you or hold it for pickup. The coolant level is ok at 1 inch or so bewlow the neck, it will expand when hot.
Sorry Doc, I should have been more clear. I live in Sacramento CA. I am not too familiar with that area up there. Do you have the phone # or the full business name for Tigard? I am happy to pay shipping and for the manual. Wow, thanks so much.
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Old 02-01-2005, 06:51 PM   #614
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc\' Forum

Boat Doc'
You never cease to amaze me.I hope everybody on here appreciates your service like they should.We are extremely lucky to have your skills and knowledge on this board.My hat is off to you and Stevens Marine.
Thank you very much.
Rick
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Old 02-02-2005, 08:01 AM   #615
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number is 1-800-225-7023 ask for parts
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Old 02-02-2005, 08:02 AM   #616
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Thanks for the support, so far it's still fun
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Old 02-02-2005, 04:59 PM   #617
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Hey Boat Doc? Anyone say thank you lately?

Almost a year ago I asked you about my 70 hp Yamaha that was "sneezing" at idle. You suggested backing the idle mixture screw out 1/8 of a turn at a time and see if that helped. I just decided to give it a try. 1/8 turn was better, and 1/8 more did the trick. No more sneezing!

THANK YOU! It was so easy, I feel stupid now. Wish I would have done it last year!. Great service you give here!
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Old 02-07-2005, 07:38 AM   #618
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Default Honda Engine Trouble

Boat Doc, last weekend I was running a little over 20mph and suddenly lost propulsion. This is a 1999 Honda BF130 4-stroke, 178 hours, on a Hewes 20 SeaRunner by the way. The motor sounded fine and revved a little because presumably it wasn't pushing the prop. Trim was all the way down. The lever on the engine appears to "engage" when I throw the thottle forward, the linkage is firm and all appears to be in order there. Gears on the prop spindle look fine as did the gears on the prop which, on the Honda stock prop, are brass. I did find 10 yards of 20-lb. PowerPro wrapped about the clutch washer (I think that's what its called) that sits under the prop. But, it appears out of the way and while it shouldn't have been there, it's hard to imagine that was the problem. I was able to turn the prop with the engine in gear, but only back and forth 1/2-inch measured at the outside diameter of the prop. I replaced the prop with my new spare. And I'm going for a test drive. Its been suggested I have a spun prop, but from what I understand, that's the loss of the gearing on the inside of the prop, no? Any thoughts. Thanks
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Old 02-07-2005, 07:50 AM   #619
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Default Re: Honda Engine Trouble

the prop has a inner rubber hub that has probably failed. if it works ok with your spare you can take the prop to your local prop shop for a new hub
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Old 02-09-2005, 07:02 PM   #620
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Default Re: Merc 9.9 4 stroke

Boat Doc.

I have a 1995 Merc 9.9 4 stroke, using it on my 10' duckboat, It has been running then sputters and slows to idle,sputtering then a few seconds later it takes off again.
Lately it will run 20-60 second (full throttle) sputters 5-6 seconds then will take off again. Repeats this cycle . The plugs are golden \brown, primer bulb is full when this happens, inline fuel filter is full as well. (gas is fresh) any ideas?
Thanks
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Old 02-10-2005, 09:24 AM   #621
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Default Re: Merc 9.9 4 stroke

Heres' another THANK YOU to the boat doc'!!!! I really enjoy reading the forum, and your knowledge never ceases to amaze me!!! Keep up to GREAT work!!!!
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Old 02-10-2005, 01:58 PM   #622
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Hello Doc,

I have a little 8hp merc two stroke motor. I replaced the water pump awhile back and it seemms to pump fine. It starts nice and runs like a top. I notice it has two pin holes (exhaust?)near top of shaft, I am assuming one for each cylinder. One hole only has some oily fluid occaisionally exiting out, again even tho runs like a top. Should I be concerned? Looks almost like lower unit lube or I thought water leaking into a cylinder?

Thanks for any advice!
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Old 02-11-2005, 07:54 AM   #623
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc\' Forum

Boat Doc,
Thanks for the info on the auto blends. I have wondered about that.
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Old 02-12-2005, 10:56 PM   #624
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Boat Doc,
I am looking at buying a 175 SJ or the dreaded Optimax 200...would you buy an Optimax? I hear a lot of negative things about them and Siglers wont sell one unless you sign a waiver! What would the Boat doc do?
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Old 02-14-2005, 07:44 AM   #625
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Boat Doc.
I have a 03' Merc 9.9 four stroke. Could you possibly tell me the best location to drill & tap a hole to get hot water for my new wash basin?
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Old 02-14-2005, 08:00 AM   #626
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Boat Doc',
Help me!!!
There are 4 tacks on the Tolley and they appear to be reading at twice the RPM. The tacks have a 4,6 and 8 cylinder setting on the back and they are all on 8 cylinder. Twin Ford 351's with distributors.
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Old 02-14-2005, 08:20 AM   #627
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Default Re: Merc 9.9 4 stroke

if the fuel filter is ok then i would disassemble and THOROUGHLY clean the carb
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Old 02-14-2005, 08:23 AM   #628
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nothing to worry about, they are exhaust releif holes to assist in low speed running. With a thousand hours or more they may get plugged up and require pulling the powerhead to clean the carbon out. Any oily residue is normal.
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Old 02-14-2005, 09:05 AM   #629
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What the Optimax can do for you is give you much better fuel economy, much less oil consumption and the ability to monitor most engine functions including gallons per hour, gallons used per trip and gallons to empty and provide self diagnostics if there is a problem. The product has come a long way since it first came out in 98 or 99, computers have been remapped and changed to a different style, and other more subtle improvements through out the fuel and air management system. The only problems we currently see is occassional plug fouling, normally caused by low engine temperature. Caused by silt or sand in the thermostats which is caused by accelerating in to shallow water. I would definitely buy one with the optional tachometer and fuel link gauge to monitor engine functions. I am not familiar with anybody requiring a waiver on any new product. If it was me I would buy from a dealer who stands behind the products that they sell and have knowledgable support staff to ensure that I have a good experience before, during and most importantly after the purchase.
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Old 02-14-2005, 09:10 AM   #630
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Remove the anode retainer and anode on the side of the block and tap the retainer to 1/8th pipe. Discard the anode its main function is in high salinity/warm water applications. You will need a valve to control water flow so the engine doesn't run cold.
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Old 02-14-2005, 09:21 AM   #631
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I would start with a few basics, confirm they are wired correctly and that all connections are clean and tight- especially grounds. Hook up a known good tach to verify your suspicions. If they are off disconnect one station and the other to see if it changes. Also try rotating the switch on the back to see if you can match the readings with the known good tach. My first suspicion is loose or corroded wiring. You might also try temporarily wiring direct to the engine and see if they read correctly.
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Old 02-14-2005, 10:45 AM   #632
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc\' Forum

Boat Doc,

Do you guys work on Hondas?

I have 1998 Honda 8HP kicker and noticed oil leaking out of it while trolling. I found that the oil in my engine oil (oil in the crankcase) had been contaminated with water, to the extent that it was a light brownish, milky color. I am hoping it is just a seal or gasket, but would like to take it to Stevens.

Thanks.
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Old 02-14-2005, 11:12 AM   #633
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Sorry no Hondas
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Old 02-14-2005, 06:23 PM   #634
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Boat Doc

Got a question about water pumps.....Just did the pump on my 105 Mariner Jet and it went just like the manual said it should except for 2 things....

1) In the manual it says there should be a water pump tube seal It looks to be between the white plastic pipe (about 3" long) and the pump housing. The kit (mercury kit) does not look like it has a seal unless it is already in the pump body. The kit did come with a real small o ring that does not look like anything I took off and there did not look like there was a seal on the old pump.

2) there does not look like there is a seal between the white plastic tube and the steel tube that goes up into the engine (steel tube heads up to the engine)

Does the white plastic tube just float or should there be seals on one or the other or both ends??

Just want to make sure it is done before I bolt the jet back on the engine.

Thanks
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Old 02-15-2005, 07:22 AM   #635
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The plastic tube is just a guide to assist in installation of the pump, there has to be a seal in the upper housing to seal the water tube. It is normally already installed, you can see or feel it by looking down into the housing. There will be extra components of the kit that don't fit every application, in this case it's ok to have extra parts.
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Old 02-15-2005, 07:33 AM   #636
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OK can you define what you mean by the white tube is a guide??? An yes there is a seal in the pump housing. The white tube was on the engine when I removed the jet pump so It will be part of the reassembly correct?? So the white tube goes in the pump and the steel tube (up to the powerhead)


OK my guess is the steel tube in the engine will slide down the "guide tube" and the steel tube will press on the seal in the pump. So the white tube is a guide to get the steel tube in the hole.



Thanks much

Paul
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Old 02-15-2005, 10:24 AM   #637
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the copper tube is installed first into the powerhead the white guide tube rests on top of the pump housing and serves as a visual guide for the copper tube as you push the jet up into place
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Old 02-15-2005, 10:55 AM   #638
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Sorry thought it was steel tube.

Thanks for the clear up

Best

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Old 02-15-2005, 09:58 PM   #639
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Boat Doc,

First let me thank you for the info on where to get a manual for my Vortec 6000. The guy I talked to in parts was very helpful and kind. Thanks. Now I may have bigger problems though. I have done 3 oil and filter changes on my Boice Jet since I bought it. It now has about 37 hours on the engine. The problem I have is, since I didn't have a manual to go by until now, I have been using the dip stick in the engine to go off of when adding the oil. It has been taking 6 Quarts to register, 7 Quarts to register in the safe zone, and 7.5 Quarts to register full on the dip stick. I asumed that these engines just had a larger oil pan than a car, being as though my F-250 takes 12 Quarts. Anyways, I just read in the manual that the engine oil capacity for this engine is 5.5 Quarts with standard filter, 6.5 with remote, and 5 Quarts with no filter.

It also says: <NOTE> Add one quart with filter change. Oil capacity may have to be adjusted for engine installation angle. Run engine with oil level within the safe zone.

Running the engine with 7-7.5 qts of oil has not caused any leaks, and the engine seems to be OK. My question is, how many qts should I be using after an oil change. Should I go by the dip stick or not? I hope I have not done any damage. With Boice out of business, I really feel lost once in a while. And this would be one of those times. I hope you can help..........Thanks again for your time....VEG :whazzup:
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Old 02-15-2005, 10:26 PM   #640
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Hello Doc,

Thanks for your advice last week on my 8 hp. I also have a 1985 evinrude 15 hp motor which runs well but it seems real sloppy/loose up top like the motor mounts may need fix? I was told if they get bad enough that the main motor can actually break loose and fall into the water? I could not find directions as how to fix in manual? Is this a pretty easy fix or would it be better to take into shop? Do you guys work on these? Thanks again I really enjoy this board.
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Old 02-16-2005, 03:40 AM   #641
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Boat Doc, I have a mid eighties honda 9.9. When I tighthen the tension nut on the side to lock the motor in one position it still moves from side to side about 3 inches. It seems like there is some bearing/bushing in the main shaft that is worn. Do you have any thoughts?
Thanks, Mrduckman
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Old 02-16-2005, 08:22 AM   #642
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The oil level should be read with the boat at the attitude it would rest at. Read it on the dip stick. You may have dual filters or the engine could be at an extreme angle. If it was overfilled you would see fluctuating oil pressure and or hear noisey lifters. If you do experience the above I would contact the engine maranizer-I beleive yours is Kodiak, on who to take it to in your area.
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Old 02-16-2005, 08:26 AM   #643
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc\' Forum

It could fall off ina high thrust use. We do not service them. It is fairly involved to change them. Powerhead,midsection both have to come off and you could almost count on running into corrossion issues. If you take it somewhere make sure you get a firm estimate, it may be more cost effective to replace it.
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Old 02-16-2005, 08:28 AM   #644
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I agree with the worn bushing, if you gotta have it work the powerhead and midsection may need to be removed to fix it.
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Old 02-21-2005, 05:32 PM   #645
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Hi Boat Doc,
Lookin for some advice.98 Predator w/175 sport jet.
I was changing the oil in the drive housing and stator assy.The drive housing went great.Ran into what I think may be a problem with the stator assy.When I loosened the drain fill plug,it spit some oil at me,with enough force to spit the screw a foot or 2 and the oil hit me in the leg a couple feet away.The oil looks like it might have just a very small amount of moisture.The boat hasnt been run in several weeks.So the pressure in the housing really surprised me.Does this sound like a bad seal to you?If so should I replace the seal,and bearing?That is I'm assuming there is a bearing in the stator housing.Never had 1 apart though.Looks like it takes about a 2" socket to get to the seal.Is this something I can do?I'm pretty mechanically inclined.Replaced several bearing and engine seals.Or would I be better off having a service center check it out and do the work for me.Also an estimate on price for parts and also labor if I cant do it.Sorry to be so long winded.But i really do appreciate your help.
Thanks,
Rick
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Old 02-22-2005, 06:59 AM   #646
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I wouldn't worry, the pressure indicates the seals are intact. The pressure is caused by the air expanding since the reservoir isn't totally full of oil.
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Old 02-22-2005, 04:36 PM   #647
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Thanks Boat Doc.I really appreciate the help.Had the unit in the car today to run down to your shop.You saved me a few bucks.Thanks again.
Rick
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Old 02-22-2005, 09:44 PM   #648
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Boat Doc, last question I hope, I'm nearly done with my new old boat. Excuse my lack of proper terms, I hope you can figure it out. I have a 1999 Honda BF130 and my steering is too tight and jerky. The cable terminates in a control mechanism at the front of the engine and there are two lube fittings. I've filled both until grease is everywhere (outside). But, when the stainless "steering rod" comes out of the control, it's dry as a bone. I attempted to remove the 1 and 1/2-inch bolts on either end to hand pack but they appear to be spring-loaded. Having taken apart a throttle control years ago with disasterous consequence, I backed off. Any thoughts or is this one for the shop? I thought about heating it up with a torch to break free any old grease but that might not be a good idea. Thanks much.
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Old 02-23-2005, 07:08 AM   #649
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The zirc fittings on the front are for the pivot tube. To grease the cable you need to remove it from the engine. It may also be necessary to clean the old grease from inside the tilt tube. In some cases this involves removing the engine. You might be able to get by with pulling it out as far as you can and grease the heck out of it and work it back and forth.
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Old 02-23-2005, 06:32 PM   #650
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Ok 1 more ? for me too please.Is the impellor on the sport jet shimable?It doesnt look like it to me.But I dont have it off.I was going to take it off to sharpen and clean up the rough edges.
Thanks again,
Rick
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Old 02-23-2005, 08:12 PM   #651
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Boat Doc, I have a 1996 Evinrude 9.9 Four Stroke kicker that I want to plumb for a hot box sink in my sled. I understand the tell tale stream isnt hot since its source is not coming through the water jacket on this motor, so that is out... My Evinrude dealer's mechanic hasnt plumbed a hot box before and told me to call the factory tech desk, the Evinrude factory service desk was clueless about this,never heard of a hot water box off a four stroke kicker (cheeseheads...) and said not to alter the motor in any way, but another local mechanic at three rivers marine (Woodinville,WA) advised to tap into the exposed coolant hose line on the right side of the motor. My Evinrude mechanic thinks this will adversely affect exhaust temps and increase noise since this line is supposedly cooling the exhaust down through the hub. Any ideas where to tap into my 9.9 Evinrude to supply my washbasin so I can get a fresh shave on the water ? It would be so easy to tap into the exposed coolant line, if it was safe to do so... Thanks.
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Old 02-24-2005, 09:33 AM   #652
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no the impeller and/or liner would be replaced if necessary.maxclearance would be .025 overall
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Old 02-24-2005, 09:37 AM   #653
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I would go with the Three Rivers suggestion. If you put a valve in line to control water flow so you're not taking all the water you should be fine.
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Old 02-24-2005, 09:57 PM   #654
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Hey Boat Doc,
I'm not sure what everything is called so hopefully I descibe it right you'll be able to tell me what it is. Is the starter the thing with the little gear on top, that rises about an inch or 2 when you turn it over to connect with the teethed wheel(flywheel) ? Anyway, somehow I left the boat key in the ignition and somehow the drivers seat was turned just enough to push the key in. The wife called me at work a few nights later and said the boat was making a beeping sound. Ever since it wont fire up! I charged the battery. I did notice when I turn it over that the little gear on top of the starter(i think) just spins and doesn't raise to meet the flywheel( i think). Why wont the gear raise but the thing spins? Does it sound like maybe I burned it out and need a new one? Thanks in advance!!!!!!
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Old 02-25-2005, 07:53 AM   #655
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The drive gear on the starter is either stuck or more likely isn't spinning fast enough to engage the flywheel. Make sure to check all battery connections-make sure they are clean and tight.Also make sure the battery is fully charged. Turn the gear on the starter to make sure it travels up the shaft and isn't stuck. Most common problems in order would be connections or cables,battery or starter.
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Old 02-25-2005, 11:37 AM   #656
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Thanks Boat Doc.
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Old 02-25-2005, 09:43 PM   #657
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I have a 1987 Ford 351 with a Holley carb. It has about 550 hours on it. A couple months ago it developed a miss (after replacing the fuel/water separator) at around 2000rpm. I had the carb rebuilt thinking it was a fuel problem. After carb rebuild, still had the miss. I then put new spark plugs in, new plug wires, new fuel pump, rebuilt altenator, new battery and changed distributor to electronic ignition. After all of this I fixed the miss. After running it for about an hour I backed off the throttle and it would only idle at 1400 rpm. I had the carb taken apart again and was told the secondary's were closing completely. Even with the idle screw backed off all the way it now idles at about 1000 rpm. I have retarded the timing and it still idles at 1000 rpm. At this point I don't think it is the carb. I am at a loss. Any ideas?
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Old 02-25-2005, 09:57 PM   #658
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Hey Doc,

I was browsing thru Merc's website tonite looking for more info on the 200 Verado, and lo and behold, there's now 3 more models!! Specifically the 135, 150 and 175 4 cylinders.
I was facing a major dilemma because of the previous gap in the Merc product line between 115 and 200 4-strokes. Now my prayers might be answered- but I need to know a few things:

1. The press release says they will be introduced as 2006 models, and will be produced accordingly. What is that supposed to mean, and when can I get one? :whazzup:

2. I need more info on the standard instrumentation and the self-diagnostic capabilities. Where can I get that?

3. I've been working with your sales guy for the last 2 weeks trying to put a deal together. Is he holding out on me, or doesn't he know about the new models?
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Old 02-26-2005, 07:30 AM   #659
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Boat Doc
I have a 8 horse merc kicker. Took it out on the first trip of the year and the rope is frozen. And yes I made sure that it was in neutral. Is this a simple fix or could there be bad news ahead. Thanks for your time.
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Old 02-28-2005, 09:20 AM   #660
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It takes air and fuel to run, I would guess vacuum leak. This is assuming throttle plates are all the way closed.
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