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Ask me! Electronics, autopilots, and hydraulics expert help

537K views 2K replies 332 participants last post by  hot wire 
#1 ·
By popular request, and due to the great relationship with Ifish over the years, we will now be offering a post for TR-1 Autopilot users or potential customers a place to talk about TR-1 Autopilots. :applause: Feel free to ask any questions you might have. I will attempt to answer any pre-purchase, installation, usage/technique, technical support or any other questions you may have. I will monitor the thread M-F 8-5 PT, as much as possible as long as I am in the office, and evenings and weekends when I get time or if there's hot topics. :cheers: If I do plan to be out and will not be able to respond I will post that as well. If you have an immediate concern please don't hesitate to call 800-588-7655 (TR-1 Factory Support) to have your questions answered. Also, we will be offering an Ifish discount through October, call me for details.

Robert Voss
Director of Product Support
email: rob@nautamatic.com
Cell phone: 541-914-4964
 
#2 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Is it possible that I could have the first question? Okay so here it goes. I have a TR-1 autopilot on my boat that was installed in early May. How often do you need to check/change the oil in the pump? And what oils do you recommend? By the way I absolutely love it!!
Thanks
 
#3 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

You are offically the first one :laugh: The maintenance is just to look at the fluid level occasionally. You should not need to add fluid. If you do have to add fluid then there is a problem somewhere. You can use the biodegradeable fluid we supply (BioSoy) or Dextron III ATF is an acceptable sub.

Robert
 
#1,479 · (Edited)
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

... You can use the biodegradeable fluid we supply (BioSoy) or Dextron III ATF is an acceptable sub.

Robert
So adding Dextron III ATF to existing Bio-Soy in the tank is acceptable and will not cause any damage to the seals?

Also, how many wires are there in the remote cable? I'd like to extend the cable about 5' so it'll reach the helm.

thanks
 
#5 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

The only thing you need to look for in getting new GPS is that it must have a NMEA 0183 communication port (any software version of NMEA). Most every unit that is not a bottom shelf brand has this capability nowdays, so you should be pretty safe in choosing.

Robert
 
#6 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

free to ask any questions you might have. I will attempt to answer any pre-purchase, installation, usage/technique, technical support or any other questions you may have.
Wow, I really expected this to draw interest more quickly and end up out of control! You can ask anything...
 
#7 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Ok Number 1: why does a $2600 dollar investment only have a one year warrenty? If you only fish spring, summer, fall,Like alot of us, the warrenty time is even shorter. Just wondering.

Number Two: why does the $350 wireless system come with a key pad that is compleatly inapropriate for marine use. It will short out every time it rains. I think you should redesign it and give free replacements for all thats bought them. I know know one that has not had this problem.

#3: Now I can tell you the rest of the system is GREAT! best d***** thing I ever bought for my boat.
 
#8 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

RB,

First, I pose a question to you: What other marine electronics, in that price range, do you have that come with a longer warranty? I know Lowrance and Garmin only offer one year on all their stuff, and they do not have parts in the bilge or exposed to the elements.

We do offer an extended warranty (for 2 years) for the nominal cost of $199. We are toying with a couple of ideas in regards to warranty... we'll have to see what happens next year...

You can pop apart the keyfaub and silicone the edges of it to help seal it. The FCC will not allow us, as a manufacturer, to do it because they say it may change the transmit characteristics. We looked at a couple of completely waterproof versions, and let me say that it would be more than $350! I fish over here on the coast all fall in an open boat. It rains man, real rain, a lot. I didn't have problems with mine getting too wet. It was on a retractable key chain attached to my pants, so it did spend some time undercover, but not a lot.

If you haven't seen my reply in the main forum yet, I also mentioned to give me a call and we'll work something out for you.

Rob
 
#9 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Is it normal for a little of the biosoy fluid to leak out from where the lines leave the pump. I was told that it is when I bought it four years ago. It has leaked a little each time I use the unit .
 
#10 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Just a quick note...I absolutely love my TR-1. I have had it for less than on year and am very happy with it.

I have a couple of questions:

1)I would like to take my kicker off at times. It it feasible to install quick disconnect fittings on the hydrolic lines or will this cause possible air in the line?

2) I noticed s amall amount of hydrolic fluid leaking from the unit. How do I check to see if the fluid level is correct?

Thanks,

Dan
 
#11 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Is it normal for a little of the biosoy fluid to leak out from where the lines leave the pump. I was told that it is when I bought it four years ago. It has leaked a little each time I use the unit .
There is really no reason that you should have to deal with that. We had a plastic line with quick lock fittings a few years ago when they first came out. Those fittings had a tendancy to fail. We quit using them. We use a rubber hose with barb fittings and hose clamps. That should not leak. If you want a hose kit just give me a call tomorrow and we'll write it up. It's only $48 for everything you need.

Rob
 
#13 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

1)I would like to take my kicker off at times. It it feasible to install quick disconnect fittings on the hydrolic lines or will this cause possible air in the line?

2) I noticed s amall amount of hydrolic fluid leaking from the unit. How do I check to see if the fluid level is correct?
Dan, you can absolutely use quick disconnects. We offer two different types for through hull and in-line both. They have shut off valves in them to block off the fluid when disconnected.

Your fluid level should be at about halfway up the tank (not the fill tube) or just above.

Rob
 
#14 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Is it possible to move my TR1 Gold between two boats? I think I woudl just buy a second compas ball and maybe a second outboard ram assembly. Have others done this?
It is possible with quick disconnects for the hydraulics. You'd need to have the throttle and bracket kit for both motors, and, yes, the compass ball to make it even near worth doing it, but it could be done. Depending on the setup of the boat you could do it in about 1/2 - 1 hour. Maybe less once you got it down if you weren't running wires. Sounds like more work than I am into though :grin:

Rob
 
#15 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

One of the buttons on my wired remote started sticking last trip out. Can I replace just the sticky switch or will i need to purchase the circuit PCB. I would rather not have to cut all the wire tye's and restring everything.

Part two of my question is I have a 2001 honda 15 hp 4 stroke. The biggest issue is I keep breaking hose clamps that hold the bracket to the motor. And yes it is properly adjusted, and installed. I fish in very windy conditions and the hose clamps just dont hold up. I now have a industrial clamp on their and it will hold up for a few trips. I would like something more permanent. Their nothing like being out in the middle of a body of water with 3 footers and having to lay over the back of my boat and repair it. Hoping that Nothing gets dropped to the bottom of the ocean.

Other than the last problem I love my TR-1 gold. One of the earlier posters asked about interfacing it with a gps chart plotter. I have my integrated with am raymarine c-80 using sea talk and it works great. I just tell the unit to go to a way point hit the appropriate buttons and off it goes.
 
#16 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

One of the buttons on my wired remote started sticking last trip out. Can I replace just the sticky switch or will i need to purchase the circuit PCB. I would rather not have to cut all the wire tye's and restring everything.

Part two of my question is I have a 2001 honda 15 hp 4 stroke. The biggest issue is I keep breaking hose clamps that hold the bracket to the motor.
You will have to send the handheld in to get work like that done, sorry.

On the bracket, I have used a U-bolt before, instead of a hose clamp. Just has to be the right size. You could also asjust your motor stops so that the motor hits the stops before the cylinder jams up against the bracket.

Rob
 
#17 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Hello,
First off let me say that I have really enjoyed my TR-1 this past year (purchased at sportsman show 2005). However, the other day I had a problem with the response of the unit. It was very slow to respond, and unable to maintain a proper heading. I check all the connection, nothing around compass ball, fluid level, no kinks in any hoses, etc. I made sure that all the settings were the factory settings.
What could you suggest for my next move?
I really appreciate this thread, very helpful.
Rob
 
#18 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Hello,
the other day I had a problem with the response of the unit. It was very slow to respond, and unable to maintain a proper heading. I check all the connection, nothing around compass ball, fluid level, no kinks in any hoses, etc. I made sure that all the settings were the factory settings.
What could you suggest for my next move?
Rob
It sounds like you have covered all the bases... It could be a low voltage scenario or it could be a funky bypass problem. Be sure you have a good voltage to the unit (a fully charged 12Vdc battery should be up around 13.5Vdc) and try it. If that is not it then give me a call and we can t/s further (too much to type).

Rob
 
#1,179 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

It sounds like you have covered all the bases... It could be a low voltage scenario or it could be a funky bypass problem. Be sure you have a good voltage to the unit (a fully charged 12Vdc battery should be up around 13.5Vdc) and try it. If that is not it then give me a call and we can t/s further (too much to type).

Rob
Rob,
Again this year when my battery did not have good voltage I had a lot of problems. Every thing else work on the boat when I put my perko switch to 1/2 it worked fine. I now fully charge my batteries after each use. I was told my 225 Merc will run better with a full charged battery to keep the computer operating correctly.
Love my unit thanks for all your help,
Boster
 
#19 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Any tips for dealing with rattling carrier brackets on Honda BF8 outboards? I just hate all that noise.

Here's a thread I posted in April:

THREAD

Appears that my fix lasted only four months. The rattle's gotten noisy again. I need to work on it tonite before trolling T-Bay the next three days. Thanks :wave:
 
#21 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Hi, Thanks for the quick response. How much am I looking at to get the handheld fixed. Flat rate or is it by the hour.

As far as adjusting the stops that has allready been tried. I picked up a couple of ubolts last week and plan on trying to install one before I go out next time.



[/quote] You will have to send the handheld in to get work like that done, sorry.

On the bracket, I have used a U-bolt before, instead of a hose clamp. Just has to be the right size. You could also asjust your motor stops so that the motor hits the stops before the cylinder jams up against the bracket.

Rob

[/quote]
 
#22 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

How much am I looking at to get the handheld fixed. Flat rate or is it by the hour.
It is usually between $40-80 to have most any handheld repair done. It is by the hour (usually only 1/2 to 1 hour), but the parts themselves are so cheap they are basically free.
 
#23 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I have had continuing problems with the autopilot wandering to the starboard side anytime I have waves or wind that pushes me in that direction. Holds port very well and works great in calm conditions. My guess is that I have some magnetic interference and would appreciate some more detailed guidance on how far the compass ball needs to be located away from ferritic sources.
Currently, the ball is located on the port forward bulkhead of a 21' boat, right in front of the passenger. It's 22" away from an air ride seat. But I suspect my problem is my VHF antenna mount, which is only 4" away. I'll move that this weekend.
After I move that and recalibrate the compass, do I need to save those settings or are they retained? I am not planning on going through the entire calibration sequence on rudder and counter rudder gains if I can help it.
One final question. Since the compass ball has been next to the antenna mount for over a month, has that had a permanent effect or will moving the source work?
Thanks
 
#24 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I have had continuing problems with the autopilot wandering to the starboard side anytime I have waves or wind that pushes me in that direction. Holds port very well and works great in calm conditions. My guess is that I have some magnetic interference and would appreciate some more detailed guidance on how far the compass ball needs to be located away from ferritic sources.
Currently, the ball is located on the port forward bulkhead of a 21' boat, right in front of the passenger. It's 22" away from an air ride seat. But I suspect my problem is my VHF antenna mount, which is only 4" away. I'll move that this weekend.
After I move that and recalibrate the compass, do I need to save those settings or are they retained? I am not planning on going through the entire calibration sequence on rudder and counter rudder gains if I can help it.
One final question. Since the compass ball has been next to the antenna mount for over a month, has that had a permanent effect or will moving the source work?
Thanks
Hey Chris, I have a question first: Does it just slightly get off course to the right, or does it turn hard right (say, like, 90 degrees off)? Is the same problem you had before I sent you a compass?

The proximity to the VHF antenna is a problem. I do not think that it should cause a lasting effect once it's moved. It does retain the settings, so there is presumably no tuning needed (unless you drastically change the vertical mounting height) but you will need to re-calibrate it to let it get used to it's new home :wink:

Rob
 
#25 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I've been very happy with my TR-1 Gold. I used GaryK's method of fixing the rattling bracket and so far so good but I expect it might loosen again. I have had zero problems with my system. The only complaint I have is that the Gladiator is too expensive to justify puting on my main. I'd love to have it though.
 
#26 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Rob,
It will gradually get off course to starboard, faster the bigger the swell/wind/wave, especially when quartering into it. The heading deviation keeps growing with time and needs constant correction. However, it also seems to reach a point where it will turn hard right or just seem to lose its mind and either not react or overreact. Erratic.
Since you sent me the new ball, there was quite an improvement. Before, regardless of conditions, it would wander continuously to starboard and would not work at all unless I sat there and kept holding the left arrow button. Now, it seems to work under moderate/calm conditions but won't handle ocean trolling at all or strong winds.
I also assume that the mass of the metal object is directly proportional to the effect on the compass, correct? I had this installed for me and then later tuned, and the location of the ball was not questioned relative to the seat or VHF antenna, so it took me a while to question this.
Thanks again for the help.
 
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