Stevens Marine Boat Doc' Forum

[Rick on Rogue]

Originally Posted by Boat Doc'

That is part of a drive kit, runs about 70 bucks.

OK I have the drive kit, Do I just pull the ring/clip and install all new parts?

[arkansasbasser]

Originally Posted by Boat Doc'

All outboards rotate clockwise. Reassemble everything and verify if the engine is getting hot. If it is and the water pump is correctly assembled then there is blockage somewhere above the water pump or a bad head gasket or? Do not run it in a barrel to diagnose an overheat condition!

If there is a blockage, how to clear it?

[honker1]

[QUOTE=Boat Doc';2807874]All outboards rotate clockwise. Reassemble everything and verify if the engine is getting hot. If it is and the water pump is correctly assembled then there is blockage somewhere above the water pump or a bad head gasket or? Do not run it in a barrel to diagnose an overheat condition![/QU

Just wondering why not to run it in a tank to diagnose an overheat problem. I have a 120 gal tank that I use a lot during the off season just so I run the motors every 3 weeks to keep fuel & oil circulating. Is this a bad thing to be doing?

[Lou]

Originally Posted by Boat Doc'

I would remove the lower unit and force water or thru the water tube. If it's clear then look closely at the water pump for issues

Well I did all that. I finally hooked the water directly to the pee
tube. The water just pores out the exhaust on the prop hub.
Considering its age, I just don't know. It runs very good just not
cool!

[Boat Doc']

Originally Posted by Rick on Rogue

OK I have the drive kit, Do I just pull the ring/clip and install all new parts?

Yes that is correct

[Boat Doc']

Originally Posted by arkansasbasser

If there is a blockage, how to clear it?

Force water or air thru any available areas to try to dislodge it. If that doesn't work then you may have to start removing covers. It can be challenging to find.

[Boat Doc']

[QUOTE=honker1;2810616]

Originally Posted by Boat Doc'

All outboards rotate clockwise. Reassemble everything and verify if the engine is getting hot. If it is and the water pump is correctly assembled then there is blockage somewhere above the water pump or a bad head gasket or? Do not run it in a barrel to diagnose an overheat condition![/QU

Just wondering why not to run it in a tank to diagnose an overheat problem. I have a 120 gal tank that I use a lot during the off season just so I run the motors every 3 weeks to keep fuel & oil circulating. Is this a bad thing to be doing?

In some cases the tank can be small enough that exhaust air can get into the cooling system giving a false overheat condition. Probably not in your case

[Boat Doc']

Originally Posted by Lou

Well I did all that. I finally hooked the water directly to the pee
tube. The water just pores out the exhaust on the prop hub.
Considering its age, I just don't know. It runs very good just not
cool!

Try it without the thermostat, if it still gets hot you may have a bad side cover or gasket. This is assuming the water pump is installed correctly

[Lou]

Originally Posted by Boat Doc'

Try it without the thermostat, if it still gets hot you may have a bad side cover or gasket. This is assuming the water pump is installed correctly

Thanks, Gary didn't think it had a t-stat. But I'll look.

[honker1]

Thanks Gary for the clarification.

[MarvinHenkel]

why if you are a guide and have a alumaweld and the hall has a crack in it, is not covered in warranty?
and you bought the boat new???????

[Boat Doc']

Originally Posted by MarvinHenkel

why if you are a guide and have a alumaweld and the hall has a crack in it, is not covered in warranty?
and you bought the boat new???????

You should contact your representative at the dealer or contact the factory directly

[Boat Doc']

Time for my annual vacation, be back 12-7
Happy fishin

[siletzsal]

Have a 1989 Evinrude 50hp electric start tiller. Low hours(300). It is stuck in forward gear. Was told it is probably broken clutch dog pin. Runs perfect otherwise. Is this the problem & please walk me through replacement?

Thanks,Don

[MarvinHenkel]

Originally Posted by Boat Doc'

You should contact your representative at the dealer or contact the factory directly

I did they said they dont warranty a boat if you are a guide.......

[namu mac]

Boat Doc. Was working on my son's OLD Merc. 4.5 hp motor today. Replaced the - wire from the mag to the coil. Old one rotted. when I was routing it I moved the Ground wre from the kill switch and it fell apart. It just disintergrated. Just a pile of dust. The question is what besides age causes this to happen?

[Boat Doc']

[QUOTE=siletzsal;2821858]Have a 1989 Evinrude 50hp electric start tiller. Low hours(300). It is stuck in forward gear. Was told it is probably broken clutch dog pin. Runs perfect otherwise. Is this the problem & please walk me through replacement?

Thanks,Don[/QUOTE

Check the linkage going to the lower unit to make sure it is moving. If it is you will need to take it apart and see what it needs. I would suggest you get a m,anual for techical assistance

[Boat Doc']

Originally Posted by namu mac

Boat Doc. Was working on my son's OLD Merc. 4.5 hp motor today. Replaced the - wire from the mag to the coil. Old one rotted. when I was routing it I moved the Ground wre from the kill switch and it fell apart. It just disintergrated. Just a pile of dust. The question is what besides age causes this to happen?

Old age is what causes the wiring to fall apart

[Smj]

Originally Posted by Boat Doc'

Old age is what causes the wiring to fall apart

Me too!

Welcome back Doc, hope you're vacation was a good one!

Smj

[shawn b]

hi i have a 1996 merc 25hp long shaft tiller handel as we were under power the motor died.. got home pulled the plugs thier was no spark

any info would help thanks

[Boat Doc']

Originally Posted by shawn b

hi i have a 1996 merc 25hp long shaft tiller handel as we were under power the motor died.. got home pulled the plugs thier was no spark

any info would help thanks

Make sure lanyard switch is in run position. If it is locate wires coming from stop switch and disconnect them. If motor starts you will not be able to shut it off without plugging them back in! If you still don't have spark you would either need a manual or take it to a dealer for diagnosis.

[Audball]

Posted on the main forum, but thought I'd ask the experts:
I just bought a new Yamaha T8 with electric start. My boat has two batteries (starter and acessories) with a battery selector. What I'm wondering is do I run the motor's wiring directly to my "accessories" battery or do hook them up so that the battery selector can "disconnect" the trolling motor from the battery?
I figure I should just run directly to the battery, but I want to get it right the first time! Thanks for any help/advice...

[Boat Doc']

Originally Posted by Audball

Posted on the main forum, but thought I'd ask the experts:
I just bought a new Yamaha T8 with electric start. My boat has two batteries (starter and acessories) with a battery selector. What I'm wondering is do I run the motor's wiring directly to my "accessories" battery or do hook them up so that the battery selector can "disconnect" the trolling motor from the battery?
I figure I should just run directly to the battery, but I want to get it right the first time! Thanks for any help/advice...

I would have motors run off a battery and accesories off the other.

[honker1]

Welcome back DOC...Hope you had a relaxing vacation.

[namu mac]

Originally Posted by Boat Doc'

Old age is what causes the wiring to fall apart

Can't wait for that to happen to "my" wiring.

[Robalo Bill]

Overheating on a 1994 mercury 150 OG005704 sn.
This past season I have replaced both thermostats, compltely cleaned and flushed the cooling sysytm. Rebuilt the waterpump at least 3 times, new housing, impeller, thrust washer etc. Pulled the Post side head, cylinders are clean no scoring (thought it might be th oil pump or water port clog). Pulled the exhaust manifold replaced all new gaskets. Replaced poppit valve and 2 voltage regulators, that I cooked 2nd water trial. So I get extremly strong stream of water coming from the pee tube. However opeerating temperature is about 160f at idle, when under way, shoots to 230+ within 2-3 minutes. If I throttle down and idle temperature reurns to 160f within 5 minutes. But even at idle water is very hot to the touch, never dropping below 160f even though I have 143degree thermostats. I'm at a loss do not know what to replace next. By the way I did replace both cooked regulators.

Thanks Much
Bill

[Tiny]

I had this posted on boat and motor tech and it was suggested I post this question over here.

I have an early 2000s 9.9 merc. When I bough it the motor had been stored on it's side so I had to burn off a lot of oil before it would run decent. It isn't quite there yet. After probably 20 hours of use it will now start reliably and run well at medium high RPM but at high RPMs it sputters. It also is slow to accelerate(turn the handle fast and the acceleration happens over the next 5 seconds). this is after it is warm. Sometimes when the handle is turned fast it almost kills it. Once it is run for a long while(it seems tool long to me) it will run fairly well but not great at low RPM as long as i don't down throttle it too quickly.

Suggestions?

[Boat Doc']

Originally Posted by Robalo Bill

Overheating on a 1994 mercury 150 OG005704 sn.
This past season I have replaced both thermostats, compltely cleaned and flushed the cooling sysytm. Rebuilt the waterpump at least 3 times, new housing, impeller, thrust washer etc. Pulled the Post side head, cylinders are clean no scoring (thought it might be th oil pump or water port clog). Pulled the exhaust manifold replaced all new gaskets. Replaced poppit valve and 2 voltage regulators, that I cooked 2nd water trial. So I get extremly strong stream of water coming from the pee tube. However opeerating temperature is about 160f at idle, when under way, shoots to 230+ within 2-3 minutes. If I throttle down and idle temperature reurns to 160f within 5 minutes. But even at idle water is very hot to the touch, never dropping below 160f even though I have 143degree thermostats. I'm at a loss do not know what to replace next. By the way I did replace both cooked regulators.

Thanks Much
Bill

The most commonly overlooked part is the water pump base gasket. If it's broke it can cause what you describe

[Boat Doc']

Originally Posted by Tiny

I had this posted on boat and motor tech and it was suggested I post this question over here.

I have an early 2000s 9.9 merc. When I bough it the motor had been stored on it's side so I had to burn off a lot of oil before it would run decent. It isn't quite there yet. After probably 20 hours of use it will now start reliably and run well at medium high RPM but at high RPMs it sputters. It also is slow to accelerate(turn the handle fast and the acceleration happens over the next 5 seconds). this is after it is warm. Sometimes when the handle is turned fast it almost kills it. Once it is run for a long while(it seems tool long to me) it will run fairly well but not great at low RPM as long as i don't down throttle it too quickly.

Suggestions?

2 things, possibly hitting the rev limiter at high speed? If you slow it down a little it should stop. Also thoroughly disassemble and clean the carb. It may fix both problems

[DTSportsman]

I have an '84 25Hp Merc that just decided to start running really rough, and then die, like it is starving for fuel. After pulling the cover off I noticed a small hole in the fuel line between the filter and the carb. The hole was at the filter, so I cut the bad piece off and re attached it with a zip tie, (just like it on all of the lines). That didn't fix the problem, did I not get the zip tie tight enough and air is still passing by? Carb issue?

What do you think?
Daryn

[Boat Doc']

Originally Posted by DTSportsman

I have an '84 25Hp Merc that just decided to start running really rough, and then die, like it is starving for fuel. After pulling the cover off I noticed a small hole in the fuel line between the filter and the carb. The hole was at the filter, so I cut the bad piece off and re attached it with a zip tie, (just like it on all of the lines). That didn't fix the problem, did I not get the zip tie tight enough and air is still passing by? Carb issue?

What do you think?
Daryn

Check spark and compression, look at the plugs. If everything ok then I would rebuild the carb.

[Loneangler]

I have a Smokercraft Tracer with riveted hull on a bunk trailer. The bunks are about ready to be replaced and I would rather use sliks on the new bunk boards than carpeting. Can I do this with the riveted hull? The sliks manufacturer indicates that the hull will not damage or chip the sliks I am considering. The bunks fit the hull between the riveted seams so the rivets will not be directly on the sliks. Thanks for your insight.

[Boat Doc']

Originally Posted by Loneangler

I have a Smokercraft Tracer with riveted hull on a bunk trailer. The bunks are about ready to be replaced and I would rather use sliks on the new bunk boards than carpeting. Can I do this with the riveted hull? The sliks manufacturer indicates that the hull will not damage or chip the sliks I am considering. The bunks fit the hull between the riveted seams so the rivets will not be directly on the sliks. Thanks for your insight.

Plastic would be fine, rollers are not recommended

[Tiny]

That worked like a charm on all problems including the high RPM issue.

Thanks

Originally Posted by Boat Doc'

2 things, possibly hitting the rev limiter at high speed? If you slow it down a little it should stop. Also thoroughly disassemble and clean the carb. It may fix both problems

[the_admeral]

Hi Doc
I was wondering, I have a "06" Merc, 9.9 XL bigfoot. I was wanting to make the shaft as short as possible. How much would this approximately cost if stevens shorted the shaft for me? Parts and labor??? Thank you very much?

[Boat Doc']

Originally Posted by the_admeral

Hi Doc
I was wondering, I have a "06" Merc, 9.9 XL bigfoot. I was wanting to make the shaft as short as possible. How much would this approximately cost if stevens shorted the shaft for me? Parts and labor??? Thank you very much?

Approx 600.00. Keep in mind the driveshaft, shift shaft and water tube get replaced. This will make it a 20 inch motor

[Maddie'sDaddy]

Hey Doc

Seeing as how I bought the boat from you folks, What do you folks recommend to clean the lifetime floors in the Smokercraft boats, Mostly leaf stains.

Thanks for any helpful tips



MD

[Boat Doc']

Originally Posted by Maddie'sDaddy

Hey Doc

Seeing as how I bought the boat from you folks, What do you folks recommend to clean the lifetime floors in the Smokercraft boats, Mostly leaf stains.

Thanks for any helpful tips



MD

We use an industrial stuff called wildcat. It cleans about anything. If you come by we can fix you up with some

[benchm]

I have a 96 175 efi merc ( that I bought from you guys ) I found a prop that the guy said came off a mercruser out drive will that fit my motor??
Thanks in advance TED

[Boat Doc']

Originally Posted by benchm

I have a 96 175 efi merc ( that I bought from you guys ) I found a prop that the guy said came off a mercruser out drive will that fit my motor??
Thanks in advance TED

It will fit, if it rubs after you tighten it down you will need to get the correct hardware

[Eliminator]

I have an 18' Alumaweld Super Vee Light with a 115 Mercury Pump with tiller handle. Recently I have been experiencing some problems getting up on a plane. There doesn't seem to be a power loss problem. I changed the spark plugs because the gap was about three times larger than it should have been. The boat isn't overloaded either. Yesterday I couldn't get on a plane until my buddy went up to the bow. The motor is wasn't trimmed too much. I trimmed it up and shot a "rooster tail" about 50'. The motor is fine at low speeds. I don't seem to get much of a "hole shot" and it isn't popping up on a plane like it used to.

Is this an impeller issue? There are no rocks, seaweed, or anything in the pump housing. My shoe is damaged. I broke a chunk off about 9 years ago on the Clackamas (about a month after I bought the boat from Stevens...DOH!)

Please help.

[Boat Doc']

Originally Posted by Eliminator

I have an 18' Alumaweld Super Vee Light with a 115 Mercury Pump with tiller handle. Recently I have been experiencing some problems getting up on a plane. There doesn't seem to be a power loss problem. I changed the spark plugs because the gap was about three times larger than it should have been. The boat isn't overloaded either. Yesterday I couldn't get on a plane until my buddy went up to the bow. The motor is wasn't trimmed too much. I trimmed it up and shot a "rooster tail" about 50'. The motor is fine at low speeds. I don't seem to get much of a "hole shot" and it isn't popping up on a plane like it used to.

Is this an impeller issue? There are no rocks, seaweed, or anything in the pump housing. My shoe is damaged. I broke a chunk off about 9 years ago on the Clackamas (about a month after I bought the boat from Stevens...DOH!)

Please help.

Remove the intake and inspect the liner for bad pits or grooves. Replace if necessary. Look at the leading edge of the impeller blades and sharpen as needed if they are damaged. Set the clearance to about .015. Make sure when the shift lever is in forward that the reverse cup is all the way down tight; if not adjust the cable as necessary. Also make sure there is no rocks in the intake or outlet. If all that is ok then you should check spark and compression.

[Eliminator]

Thanks Boat Doc' !

I removed the liner, sharpened the impeller edges, and shimmed it down one spacer. The liner is grooved, but not too bad. The cup is adjusted fine. I found one rock above the impeller. Hopefully all that will take care of the issue.

Doing all that tinkering inspired me to do a lot of preventative maintenance on my boat, motors, and trailer.

So...

I need to replace the impeller on my water pump on my 6 horse kicker. It is a Mercury 6ml. I have the replacement kit already. When I remove the three bolts the lower unit drops down, but I can't remove it. It is still attached somewhere (or something??) I have done this before on another motor. What am I doing wrong? It doesn't seem to help if it is in forward, neutral, or reverse.

Thanks for all of your help!!

[Boat Doc']

Originally Posted by Eliminator

Thanks Boat Doc' !

I removed the liner, sharpened the impeller edges, and shimmed it down one spacer. The liner is grooved, but not too bad. The cup is adjusted fine. I found one rock above the impeller. Hopefully all that will take care of the issue.

Doing all that tinkering inspired me to do a lot of preventative maintenance on my boat, motors, and trailer.

So...

I need to replace the impeller on my water pump on my 6 horse kicker. It is a Mercury 6ml. I have the replacement kit already. When I remove the three bolts the lower unit drops down, but I can't remove it. It is still attached somewhere (or something??) I have done this before on another motor. What am I doing wrong? It doesn't seem to help if it is in forward, neutral, or reverse.

Thanks for all of your help!!

Take off the cowl and look next to the carb on the port side. There is a clip that needs to be removed to release the shift shaft. Also look at the shift shaft where it goes by the reverse lock hooks and remove that clamp. It will now slide off

[iwanttofish]

I have the replacement switch for my 96 mercury 115 that I got from the tigard store. Quicksilver Part Number 87 18286A43 Switch harness

I though that I had a sheet or instructions on removing the throttle handle and replacing the switch but I can not find it.

I dont want to tear it apart and not be able to get it back together.

I did install a remote switch on the rear of the boat so I am using that now to tilt the motor.

Help

[Boat Doc']

Originally Posted by iwanttofish

I have the replacement switch for my 96 mercury 115 that I got from the tigard store. Quicksilver Part Number 87 18286A43 Switch harness

I though that I had a sheet or instructions on removing the throttle handle and replacing the switch but I can not find it.

I dont want to tear it apart and not be able to get it back together.

I did install a remote switch on the rear of the boat so I am using that now to tilt the motor.

Help

Tiller handle trim switch is accessed by removing the cover on the bottom of the housing

[iwanttofish]

Originally Posted by Boat Doc'

Tiller handle trim switch is accessed by removing the cover on the bottom of the housing

Thanks I almost got it back together, it is a forward mount throttle control. I have one extra metal spacer that I do not know where it came from it fell out when I was getting the switch in. I will try to figure it out in the AM.

Thanks for your info.

Mike

[iwanttofish]

Thanks Boat Doc I got it back together and appears to work good. I will test it in a few days.

[Danno]

Outboard Motors and Dual Batteries

I have read some literature that says to isolate two outboards on separate batteries with a switch to combine when necessary. The reason has to do with dualing alternators and problems that could arise. Does this apply to a main motor and kicker as well. I think the common practice with a kicker is that both outboards are connected to one battery and the electronics to the other with a switch between.

- When does one isolate the engine batteries and when is it okay to combine the outboards on one battery?

[Boat Doc']

Originally Posted by Danno

Outboard Motors and Dual Batteries

I have read some literature that says to isolate two outboards on separate batteries with a switch to combine when necessary. The reason has to do with dualing alternators and problems that could arise. Does this apply to a main motor and kicker as well. I think the common practice with a kicker is that both outboards are connected to one battery and the electronics to the other with a switch between.

- When does one isolate the engine batteries and when is it okay to combine the outboards on one battery?

My opinion is one battery for each main engine, accessories off there own battery or have them run off a main engine battery, kickers can be run off a main engine battery battery as they do not run at the same time. You would use a isolater instead of a multi battery switch so you don't have to manually select which batteries you want to charge or run off of.

[Danno]

Thanks BD! Here's a follow up question...

Even though the kicker isn't run at the same time most of the time, I know I had run both at the same time on occassion. Mostly to make sure I had control by one engine until the other was warmed up enough to be dependable. What kind of problems could that create? I didn't have any problems that I knew of.

Second question: Is an isolator different from an automatic charging relay? Can you point me to a product?

[Boat Doc']

Originally Posted by Danno

Thanks BD! Here's a follow up question...

Even though the kicker isn't run at the same time most of the time, I know I had run both at the same time on occassion. Mostly to make sure I had control by one engine until the other was warmed up enough to be dependable. What kind of problems could that create? I didn't have any problems that I knew of.

Second question: Is an isolator different from an automatic charging relay? Can you point me to a product?

Kicker doesn't have enough output to cause an issue, charging relay and isolater are the same. Make sure you get one for marine use so it doesn't rust out. Some brands are Guest, Professional Mariner and Newmar. Also need to make sure you match them to the type of charging system, for example alternater vs stator for outboard use

[top_pin_or]

Hey Boat Doc: I am a new owner of a 2000 Alumaweld Styker. I have owned this boat since last August had it all checked out by the shop at stevens before i bought it. I have had no problems with it but i was looking through the motor and tech forum on here and see some people have had problems with hydrolok. Im not really sure of what the cause of this condition is or if there is anyway to keep this from happening to me. If you have any input it would be greatly appreciated.

[Space Gunner]

My 2007 Merc. 9.9 was diagnosed with a problem called Making Oil and cost me time and money last Oct. Can you please tell me how this happens and how to prevent it. I checked the oil before each use and it didn't look like it should be a problem.
Thanks,
Randy

[Chromitis]

Sir,

Could you give any info on the "low pressure warning indicator" of a 2005 Yamaha 4-stroke T9.9 EXH2D. Is the light to remain off or on during normal operation. The manual states, "The oil pressure lamp is on when the engine is running and oil pressure is normal. If oil pressure drops too low, the lamp goes off. As an additional alert of the low oil pressure condition, the engine runs roughly and will not exceed about 2000 rpm."

The light on mine is always off, yet the motor runs like a top and does not exhibit the poor running or rpm limit. To add further confusion, the Yamaha tech I talked to said the light should always be "off".

Thanks for any info you can give on this.

[Boat Doc']

Originally Posted by top_pin_or

Hey Boat Doc: I am a new owner of a 2000 Alumaweld Styker. I have owned this boat since last August had it all checked out by the shop at stevens before i bought it. I have had no problems with it but i was looking through the motor and tech forum on here and see some people have had problems with hydrolok. Im not really sure of what the cause of this condition is or if there is anyway to keep this from happening to me. If you have any input it would be greatly appreciated.

Depends on the motor, sport jet is to much weight in the back of the boat with swells engine not running, inboard is dieselng when shut off

[Boat Doc']

Originally Posted by Space Gunner

My 2007 Merc. 9.9 was diagnosed with a problem called Making Oil and cost me time and money last Oct. Can you please tell me how this happens and how to prevent it. I checked the oil before each use and it didn't look like it should be a problem.
Thanks,
Randy

normally running rich, running cold or a gasket failure

[Boat Doc']

Originally Posted by Chromitis

Sir,

Could you give any info on the "low pressure warning indicator" of a 2005 Yamaha 4-stroke T9.9 EXH2D. Is the light to remain off or on during normal operation. The manual states, "The oil pressure lamp is on when the engine is running and oil pressure is normal. If oil pressure drops too low, the lamp goes off. As an additional alert of the low oil pressure condition, the engine runs roughly and will not exceed about 2000 rpm."

The light on mine is always off, yet the motor runs like a top and does not exhibit the poor running or rpm limit. To add further confusion, the Yamaha tech I talked to said the light should always be "off".

Thanks for any info you can give on this.

Not a Yamaha expert but I would guess you have the manual for the wrong engine, light off runs good no problems.

[rip n lips]

Hey Doc, I recently replaced the tilt/trim motor in my boat. Everything had been working fine until the last time I took it out. Started noticing fluid spraying when tilting the engine up. Got it home thinking/hoping it was just one of the lines. Low n behold it was comming from between the peice where the engage/disingage knob and all the lines are and the top peice. 1st thought was gasket but upone dissambly I found there was just a metal plate there. Below the plate on the peice where the knob and the lines are there are 4 O-rings. One of the O-rings (closest to the front) is oval and is broken. 95% sure this is where my leak was occuring. Question is can I just replace this O-ring? I tried picking one up from the hardware store but being it fits in an oblong slot it will not stay in place...any ideas?

[One Eyed Jack]

Boat Doc
I have twin 135 opt max.Both motors tilted up fine for the road trip home.And now the starboard motor will not go up or dpwn.
Where should Istart looking?
Thanks Bruce