TR-1 RPM Antenna Question

[BigO]

While trouble shooting my sonar noise problem, I found the TR-1 gold RPM Sensor was pinched and my be broken inside. I checked code # 36 and only get 500 rpm at all speeds.
My question is: Can the sensor wire be cut and soldered at the break? If not, can the sensor/antenna wire be replaced without replacing the entire Deck Mount switch/tach cable? Is there something special about the antenna tip?

[autopilot70]

Originally Posted by BigO

While trouble shooting my sonar noise problem, I found the TR-1 gold RPM Sensor was pinched and my be broken inside. I checked code # 36 and only get 500 rpm at all speeds.
My question is: Can the sensor wire be cut and soldered at the break? If not, can the sensor/antenna wire be replaced without replacing the entire Deck Mount switch/tach cable? Is there something special about the antenna tip?

You must replace the whole deckmount harness, it can't be repaired is what Garmin told me.

[QwikSticks]

I used two red heat shrink butt connectors to put mine together when i accidentally cut it. works fine

[BigO]

Great! I'll give it a try. When I called Garmin, they said it wasn't possible to splice the wire. I'm glad I waited.
Thanks

[jet2go]

When you splice it, make sure you do a good job with the shrink tube/sealant. My slice eventually failed because salt water got in there and rotted the wire away. Once that happened I didn't have enough clean wire left to do another repair and ended up getting a new switch, etc.

[Slow Drag-on]

Originally Posted by BigO

While trouble shooting my sonar noise problem, I found the TR-1 gold RPM Sensor was pinched and my be broken inside. I checked code # 36 and only get 500 rpm at all speeds.
My question is: Can the sensor wire be cut and soldered at the break? If not, can the sensor/antenna wire be replaced without replacing the entire Deck Mount switch/tach cable? Is there something special about the antenna tip?

Of course it can be spliced - but not with crimp connectors - please. The only thing special about the tip is how the conductor is exposed and layered with heat shrink for corrosion and voltage protection.

[BigO]

Before reading Slow Drag On post, I spliced the tach wire. I had some very small butt connectors (about 24 ga.). It was very difficult getting a clean cut through the inner insulation without cutting the small conductor wire. Then worked the ground wiring back over the connecter and heat shrink. Tested....no help.
Called Garmin and ordered a new deck mount/tach cable.

If I was not to use a butt connector, how would you splice the cable?
Would you solder the wires?
Thanks

[Slow Drag-on]

Originally Posted by BigO

Before reading Slow Drag On post, I spliced the tach wire. I had some very small butt connectors (about 24 ga.). It was very difficult getting a clean cut through the inner insulation without cutting the small conductor wire. Then worked the ground wiring back over the connecter and heat shrink. Tested....no help.
Called Garmin and ordered a new deck mount/tach cable.

If I was not to use a butt connector, how would you splice the cable?
Would you solder the wires?
Thanks

Yes, for that soldering is the only way to go. My personal primary reason for not wanting to use butt splices is corrosion. If not sealed up, that little tiny wire and shield will get eaten up by corrosion very quickly, and once it starts, it just races down the wire.

I should also say that with the broken wire shield, two things can happen:
1) the rpm signal is being radiated from the break. This can cause RF interference with other electronics.
2) it is a place that other RF can be picked up and brought into the autopilot, confusing the rpm reading.

[BigO]

New deck mount cable arrived. Installed and now have the tach working properly again. Thanks everyone.

[Starfish]

Did you happen to check your fishfinder to see if you're still getting interference from the TR1 now that the antenna is replaced?