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Old 03-05-2012, 06:14 PM   #3901
Jewelldday
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Default Re: 04 intruder 3.0 mercruiser

Got stranded first time out with my intruder. Ran from meldrum to portland with 3.0 inboarded stop downtown and trolled for a hour. tried to start 3.0 turn key nothing happenes trolled to willamette park had buddy bring another battery still no start. tried key about 6 times starter started and engine started. ran back to meldrum, at dock i turned it off then tried to start it again nothing when u turn the key. same thing happened when i got home. tonight went out and the starter worked perfect. i took the starter out to replace but before i do would the heat from the engine running cause the slave solnoid or starter solnoid not to work?????? should i reppace starter and slave?

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Old 03-05-2012, 07:14 PM   #3902
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1989 Four Winns Merc OMC 3.0 4cyl purchased last year in San Diego(has been in salt), looked like good clean motor but when it sits in water the auto bilge comes on every 20 minutes or so for a few seconds. Water is clean. The lower end was rebuilt prior to purchase. What seals, hoses, etc could be leaking? No obvious leaks that are visible. Drain plug and fiberglass look good. What do you recommend looking into first? Approx. $$ is done professionally? Thanks.
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Old 03-06-2012, 06:23 AM   #3903
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc'

I just bought a new Yamaha F70 with the Digital Multifunction Tachometer.

The dealer said that an alarm will go off at 20 hours indicating the first service. I can do the service myself but cannot figure out how to reset the alarm.

Any advice would be appreciated.
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Old 03-06-2012, 06:52 AM   #3904
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Hi, Boat Doc-

I recently purchased a 2001 Fish Rite with a 175 Sportjet. When the motor is cold and I turn the ignition key, the motor turns over for about 2 seconds then stops. I then turn the key to off and repeat the process. After repeating this for about 6-8 times, the motor starts right up. The former owner used this process to cold start the motor all the time and said it "primed the engine" (?). Is it normal for the ignition key to only engage the motor for a couple of seconds, or is this a problem? When warm, it starts with the first turn of the key. Thanks for any help you can provide. It's my first post, sorry if I'm ignoring protocols.
I would guess a battery being low, loose or corroded connections and least likely the starter
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Old 03-06-2012, 06:57 AM   #3905
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Default Re: 04 intruder 3.0 mercruiser

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Originally Posted by Jewelldday View Post
Got stranded first time out with my intruder. Ran from meldrum to portland with 3.0 inboarded stop downtown and trolled for a hour. tried to start 3.0 turn key nothing happenes trolled to willamette park had buddy bring another battery still no start. tried key about 6 times starter started and engine started. ran back to meldrum, at dock i turned it off then tried to start it again nothing when u turn the key. same thing happened when i got home. tonight went out and the starter worked perfect. i took the starter out to replace but before i do would the heat from the engine running cause the slave solnoid or starter solnoid not to work?????? should i reppace starter and slave?
I would guess the solenoid, you should be able to hear it click. If you can check for voltage going to the starter and replace it or the complete starter if necessary. If you don't hear it click make sure it's in neutral
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Old 03-06-2012, 07:01 AM   #3906
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishward View Post
1989 Four Winns Merc OMC 3.0 4cyl purchased last year in San Diego(has been in salt), looked like good clean motor but when it sits in water the auto bilge comes on every 20 minutes or so for a few seconds. Water is clean. The lower end was rebuilt prior to purchase. What seals, hoses, etc could be leaking? No obvious leaks that are visible. Drain plug and fiberglass look good. What do you recommend looking into first? Approx. $$ is done professionally? Thanks.
Best thing to do is stick your head in there and see where it's dripping in from, could be as simple as a loose hose
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Old 03-06-2012, 07:21 AM   #3907
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I just bought a new Yamaha F70 with the Digital Multifunction Tachometer.

The dealer said that an alarm will go off at 20 hours indicating the first service. I can do the service myself but cannot figure out how to reset the alarm.

Any advice would be appreciated.
If you don't have the manual for the gauge you would need to consult your dealer, sorry I can't help
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Old 03-06-2012, 07:52 AM   #3908
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Hey, I had my boat winterized and serviced by stevens marine in Jan. Put boat in water for moorage in late Feb and it ran alright three times out. Noticed that a battery was completly dead so I went and bought a new one. After replacing, the boat would turn over but not start. Normally when i turn the ignition to on, the boat will click/buzz for a second. This wasn't happening.

The boat is a inboard duckworth jet with a redline 351? Model year is 2001 I believe. I can't find any service manuals for the motor, and really don't want to trailer it back in (trailer is far away from boat).

I am no motor pro, but it seems like something is wrong with the fuel pump. Is there a fuse that I can check? Where would it be located? Any other ideas? Thanks

FOW
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Old 03-06-2012, 07:59 AM   #3909
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Default Re: SJ 175 Starter Problem?

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Originally Posted by Boat Doc' View Post
I would guess a battery being low, loose or corroded connections and least likely the starter
Thanks for the quick response, Boat Doc, I'll check it out.
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Old 03-08-2012, 07:22 AM   #3910
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc'

Boat Doc-

I have a 94 Merc 40hp 4cyl. Can I drain/clean the carbs and bowls without removing them? I dont see a drain plug for the bowls and I cant tell if I would be able to get the bottom one out without pulling the carbs.

Thanks
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Old 03-08-2012, 09:44 AM   #3911
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Boat Doc-

I have a 94 Merc 40hp 4cyl. Can I drain/clean the carbs and bowls without removing them? I dont see a drain plug for the bowls and I cant tell if I would be able to get the bottom one out without pulling the carbs.

Thanks
They need to come off.
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Old 03-08-2012, 09:51 AM   #3912
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They need to come off.

Thanks! That's what I thought.
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Old 03-08-2012, 01:17 PM   #3913
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Boat Doc, I have a 2003 Merc 225 EFI 2 stroke. First trip of the season today, Motors fired right up and ran fine all day. On the way back to the dock, started getting 4 warning chirps every 2 minutes, no gauge warning lights came on. Everything seemed to be running fine. I recall a friend telling about a problem with his identical motor chirping if his emergency oil reservoir dropped even a little. My main reservoir is at 1/2 full and I did note that my emergency reservoir was down approx. 1". I topped it off at home, and see no indications of an oil leak of any kind in the motor compartment, motor has about 500 hours on it. Do you suspect the alarm was from the small amount of oil missing from that reservoir?
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Old 03-09-2012, 09:52 AM   #3914
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc'

Hi-
Another ? on my 1994 40hp 4cyl. I have the carbs off and am cleaning and putting a new gasket kit on them. (There was water in the bowls)

I didnt mark the 2 lines that came off this:



I think this is the "enrichment valve"?
Does the tube that comes out of the bottom of the bowl of the top carb, go into the top or the bottom nipple of the "enrichment valve"?

Thanks-
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Old 03-09-2012, 12:17 PM   #3915
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Originally Posted by chummer View Post
Boat Doc, I have a 2003 Merc 225 EFI 2 stroke. First trip of the season today, Motors fired right up and ran fine all day. On the way back to the dock, started getting 4 warning chirps every 2 minutes, no gauge warning lights came on. Everything seemed to be running fine. I recall a friend telling about a problem with his identical motor chirping if his emergency oil reservoir dropped even a little. My main reservoir is at 1/2 full and I did note that my emergency reservoir was down approx. 1". I topped it off at home, and see no indications of an oil leak of any kind in the motor compartment, motor has about 500 hours on it. Do you suspect the alarm was from the small amount of oil missing from that reservoir?
It's sensing water in the engine mounted fuel filter. You can either dump it out or replace it
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Old 03-09-2012, 12:18 PM   #3916
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tail Out Swingin View Post
Hi-
Another ? on my 1994 40hp 4cyl. I have the carbs off and am cleaning and putting a new gasket kit on them. (There was water in the bowls)

I didnt mark the 2 lines that came off this:



I think this is the "enrichment valve"?
Does the tube that comes out of the bottom of the bowl of the top carb, go into the top or the bottom nipple of the "enrichment valve"?

Thanks-
Goes into the top
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Old 03-10-2012, 04:31 PM   #3917
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Boat Doc,

I have a 9.8 merc. serial number 6403782. First off what year is this motor? Second, when I shift into foward it will not go until i goose the throttle a few times. It goes into reverse and neutral just fine and stays in forward once it pops in. But it won't just snap into foward. I've had the lower unit off to replace the pump and seals and bearings and when I assembled the lower unit it slipped into place easliy. The shift cam moves the pin to the neutral and reverse position, but what keeps the foward gear engaged? I traded for the motor as a project in a box. I noticed the plastic reverse lock block that the shifter rod splines into doesn't move smoothly but it does work. The guy i got the motor from said he forgot to raise the motor and then took off with his big motor and after that it wouldn't shift right. I've done that myself with my 15hp with no ill effects so I don't think that would cause a problem. thanks for any help you can provide.

Karl
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Old 03-12-2012, 09:37 AM   #3918
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Boat Doc,

I have a 9.8 merc. serial number 6403782. First off what year is this motor? Second, when I shift into foward it will not go until i goose the throttle a few times. It goes into reverse and neutral just fine and stays in forward once it pops in. But it won't just snap into foward. I've had the lower unit off to replace the pump and seals and bearings and when I assembled the lower unit it slipped into place easliy. The shift cam moves the pin to the neutral and reverse position, but what keeps the foward gear engaged? I traded for the motor as a project in a box. I noticed the plastic reverse lock block that the shifter rod splines into doesn't move smoothly but it does work. The guy i got the motor from said he forgot to raise the motor and then took off with his big motor and after that it wouldn't shift right. I've done that myself with my 15hp with no ill effects so I don't think that would cause a problem. thanks for any help you can provide.

Karl
1983, if the reverse lock is hanging up that could be the problem.There is a detent on the shift lever that holds it into gear. If it stays in gear once it engages it almost has to be the reverse lock mechanism
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Old 03-13-2012, 06:42 AM   #3919
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2012 Tracker Super Guide V16SC

Can you give me an idea on what I need to do to properly anchor my boat. I have the Minn Kota bolted over the bow. I've bought the 32# breakaway anchor and retrieval system that's used on the Columbia by most boats. I'm a new boat owner and I don't have a clue as to the best remedy.
t
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Old 03-13-2012, 06:45 PM   #3920
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc'

My motor: 1978 Evinrude 15 hp. I have spark at only one plug. I replaced the ignition coil for that plug but no help. Swapped plug still didn't work What could be the cause?

Thanks,
Don
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Old 03-14-2012, 08:40 AM   #3921
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My motor: 1978 Evinrude 15 hp. I have spark at only one plug. I replaced the ignition coil for that plug but no help. Swapped plug still didn't work What could be the cause?

Thanks,
Don
Most commonly the power pack
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Old 03-15-2012, 05:29 AM   #3922
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2012 Tracker Super Guide V16SC

Can you give me an idea on what I need to do to properly anchor my boat. I have the Minn Kota bolted over the bow. I've bought the 32# breakaway anchor and retrieval system that's used on the Columbia by most boats. I'm a new boat owner and I don't have a clue as to the best remedy.
t
* Went down and got the information from the shop, big thank you for all the help........ boat should be in shortly for the minn kota move and anchor roller on the bow.
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Old 03-15-2012, 07:30 PM   #3923
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dear boat doc purchased 1996 9.9 merc it has the fast ideal soleonoid on top of carb changed out the first one local shop sent me a new one why does it still take 10-15 pulls to get it started once started runs perfect for hours on end kill it wait 1hr starts on 4-5 pull thanks
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Old 03-16-2012, 10:37 AM   #3924
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dear boat doc purchased 1996 9.9 merc it has the fast ideal soleonoid on top of carb changed out the first one local shop sent me a new one why does it still take 10-15 pulls to get it started once started runs perfect for hours on end kill it wait 1hr starts on 4-5 pull thanks
Try setting the idle air mixture richer and make sure the idle speed is set to specs. This should help with both cold and warm starts
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Old 03-16-2012, 10:43 AM   #3925
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Figured it out, thanks...
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Last edited by Fishwater; 03-16-2012 at 12:59 PM.
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Old 03-16-2012, 06:30 PM   #3926
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where can i getthe specs on this
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Old 03-19-2012, 04:48 AM   #3927
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Hi Boat Doc,
I have a 86 or maybe 87 Merc 115 hp straight six.SErial #A127xxx. I want to change the water pump.Does everything for that come in a kit? Could you get me part#s and prices so I will be prepared when I get ready to do it.

Also notices a little gear oil.Dripping down by the prop.So I probably need a seal for that too.

Thank you HntnFsh
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Old 03-19-2012, 08:13 AM   #3928
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Hi Boat Doc,
I have a 86 or maybe 87 Merc 115 hp straight six.SErial #A127xxx. I want to change the water pump.Does everything for that come in a kit? Could you get me part#s and prices so I will be prepared when I get ready to do it.

Also notices a little gear oil.Dripping down by the prop.So I probably need a seal for that too.

Thank you HntnFsh
Impeller and gasket kit 46-96148A8 approx 50.00
seal kit 26-55682A1 approx 100.00 or pressure test it and replace only the ones that are leaking
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Old 03-19-2012, 06:56 PM   #3929
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Boat Doc,

I have a '95 Mercury 200hp outboard. Getting ready for springer fishing and noticed something that I thought you could help with. I entered my serial number on the Mercury website to view manual images, but think I may need to order one to get all my answers.

Should there be something connected to, or properly plugging this fitting?



Thanks in advance
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Old 03-20-2012, 07:36 AM   #3930
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Boat Doc,

I have a '95 Mercury 200hp outboard. Getting ready for springer fishing and noticed something that I thought you could help with. I entered my serial number on the Mercury website to view manual images, but think I may need to order one to get all my answers.

Should there be something connected to, or properly plugging this fitting?



Thanks in advance
Nothing attaches to it. It's a check valve to relieve vacuum, if it should ever leak oil replace it
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Old 03-20-2012, 08:05 AM   #3931
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Thank you, Boat Doc.

Another question, electrical this time.

Again, motor is a '95 200hp. Motor has leads connecting to battery positive and negative. I have never tested the boats electric charge.

Is this a factory wire?

Everything I have heard and read about electricity and boats, is nothing grounded to the hull. It might not even be a grounding wire, but it seems as though it is.




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Old 03-20-2012, 01:12 PM   #3932
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Thank you, Boat Doc.

Another question, electrical this time.

Again, motor is a '95 200hp. Motor has leads connecting to battery positive and negative. I have never tested the boats electric charge.

Is this a factory wire?

Everything I have heard and read about electricity and boats, is nothing grounded to the hull. It might not even be a grounding wire, but it seems as though it is.




It should be disconnected. However if you think about it as soon as you bolt the motor on it is the same as adding a ground wire.
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Old 03-21-2012, 04:42 PM   #3933
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Thank you,
When I get caught up and get a chance to tackle this I will call your parts dept.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Boat Doc' View Post
Impeller and gasket kit 46-96148A8 approx 50.00
seal kit 26-55682A1 approx 100.00 or pressure test it and replace only the ones that are leaking
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Old 03-21-2012, 10:03 PM   #3934
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Hey Boat Doc' thanks for making yourself available to ifishers, we appreciate your help.

My question: I was advised by a boat repair place to replace my water pump in my Honda 1999 8 hp kicker. The cost seemed "a bit" high. I have replaced a water pump in a Sears 5 horse motor before, could you head me in the right direction to get this job started? Is there a website to download information? Is it a technical job that a "hey you" mechanic might not want to start the job?

thanks for your advice in advance
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Old 03-25-2012, 09:37 PM   #3935
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Boat Doc

We have an 83 Honda 8hp kicker. Last year we trolled for springers and noticed the oil was milky white and smelled like fuel. Got it serviced and thought it was fixed but the same thing is now happening.

Was trolling the other day and saw the same milky white oil coming out of the what appears to be some sort of exhaust port on the tiller handle side just below the housing cover. Troubleshooted it and determined there are two hoses feeding the port. One from the carb and the other from what appears to be some sort of vacuum hose. Took both hoses off and it was not coming from the carb, but from this other thing. The hose goes to a black casing just below where the pull cord handle is and there are other hoses coming off of this and appear to be going down into the housing just above the dipstick opening, which have this oil mix in them when I checked. Maybe some sort of vacuum line. Im thinking it is sucking up the oil/fuel mixture as it froths and fills the engine compartment and expelling it out of the exhaust port.

I changed the oil today and noticed the oil mix was near the top of the dipstick opening.

I did an online search and saw that one problem could be that we only use the motor for idling while trolling and these motors may not be built for that, and is causing fuel not to burn off and empty directly into the oil because we do not run past an idle?

Another I-fisher said it is the thermostat stuck open. But I dont understand how that would be causing the oil to froth up and smell like fuel?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Nick
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:02 AM   #3936
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Hey Boat Doc' thanks for making yourself available to ifishers, we appreciate your help.

My question: I was advised by a boat repair place to replace my water pump in my Honda 1999 8 hp kicker. The cost seemed "a bit" high. I have replaced a water pump in a Sears 5 horse motor before, could you head me in the right direction to get this job started? Is there a website to download information? Is it a technical job that a "hey you" mechanic might not want to start the job?

thanks for your advice in advance
All you need to do is remove the gearcase. The water pump is on the top of the gearcase, should be a easy fix
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:12 AM   #3937
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Boat Doc

We have an 83 Honda 8hp kicker. Last year we trolled for springers and noticed the oil was milky white and smelled like fuel. Got it serviced and thought it was fixed but the same thing is now happening.

Was trolling the other day and saw the same milky white oil coming out of the what appears to be some sort of exhaust port on the tiller handle side just below the housing cover. Troubleshooted it and determined there are two hoses feeding the port. One from the carb and the other from what appears to be some sort of vacuum hose. Took both hoses off and it was not coming from the carb, but from this other thing. The hose goes to a black casing just below where the pull cord handle is and there are other hoses coming off of this and appear to be going down into the housing just above the dipstick opening, which have this oil mix in them when I checked. Maybe some sort of vacuum line. Im thinking it is sucking up the oil/fuel mixture as it froths and fills the engine compartment and expelling it out of the exhaust port.

I changed the oil today and noticed the oil mix was near the top of the dipstick opening.

I did an online search and saw that one problem could be that we only use the motor for idling while trolling and these motors may not be built for that, and is causing fuel not to burn off and empty directly into the oil because we do not run past an idle?

Another I-fisher said it is the thermostat stuck open. But I dont understand how that would be causing the oil to froth up and smell like fuel?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Nick
Chances are it's running cold from the thermostat being stuck open. I would recommend replacing the thermostat and a oil change. Keep and eye on the oil level and drain it off as necessary so it's not overfull. If the oil level increases substantially in an hour or so there is a water leak somewhere that needs to be fixed. Most common cause is powerhead base gasket
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Old 03-26-2012, 10:20 AM   #3938
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Hey Doc, My boat is actually in your shop for a repair right now. I was wondering if I could add a light on the dash that would light up when the engine alarm is going off. With the sport jet the motor is so load I am afraid that I may not hear the alarm going off till its too late.
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Old 03-27-2012, 10:23 AM   #3939
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Chances are it's running cold from the thermostat being stuck open. I would recommend replacing the thermostat and a oil change. Keep and eye on the oil level and drain it off as necessary so it's not overfull. If the oil level increases substantially in an hour or so there is a water leak somewhere that needs to be fixed. Most common cause is powerhead base gasket

Thanks a bunch. I will replace the thermostat. I changed the oil and took it out yesterday and had the same problem so it needs to be done sooner than later. Which sucks, because springer season is upon us. It looks like there are a few seals I will need to replace on the carb and the exhaust manifold when I do this. Do you guys sell them online?
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Old 03-27-2012, 01:23 PM   #3940
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Thanks a bunch. I will replace the thermostat. I changed the oil and took it out yesterday and had the same problem so it needs to be done sooner than later. Which sucks, because springer season is upon us. It looks like there are a few seals I will need to replace on the carb and the exhaust manifold when I do this. Do you guys sell them online?
We don't have anything for Honda
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Old 03-27-2012, 01:25 PM   #3941
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Hey Doc, My boat is actually in your shop for a repair right now. I was wondering if I could add a light on the dash that would light up when the engine alarm is going off. With the sport jet the motor is so load I am afraid that I may not hear the alarm going off till its too late.
Shouldn't be a problem, call the shop and let them know
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Old 03-29-2012, 12:20 PM   #3942
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Default Mounting Yamaha T9.9 .....Need Advice

Boat Doc,
I am in the process of mounting a new Yamaha T9.9 kicker on the transom of my Alumaweld 16' Sea Skiff.
In addition to the 2 clamp screws, I would like to through-bolt the motor's bracket to the transom utilizing the holes (upper), and slots (lower) available on the mounting bracket.
The hardware provided with the outboard for this purpose are 5/16" diameter and, according to charts I have, the proper torque for 18-8 stainless steel bolts of this size is 132 inch pounds (11 foot pounds)
Seems like pretty light torque value. Of course, these 5/16 bolts are pretty small. What do you think?
Also, I have been paying attention to other installations and see that many folks are not using the lower mounting slots but just putting 2 bolts through the upper portion of the mounting bracket. The lower holes are at or below the waterline so that may be a concern. Another issue in that lower location is the fact that many boats (my Alumaweld included) only have un-reinforced single wall hull plating at the lower location of the transom whereas the upper bolts can be situated to go through the heavy, double wall, structure at the top edge of the transom. Of course, if I do drill the hull for the lower locations, I plan to use a piece of thick UHMW as a backing board inside the hull and also apply some Boatlife sealer to the bolts since the holes would be close to, or below, the waterline.
Really just looking for words of advice from the pro.
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Old 03-29-2012, 01:36 PM   #3943
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Boat Doc,
I am in the process of mounting a new Yamaha T9.9 kicker on the transom of my Alumaweld 16' Sea Skiff.
In addition to the 2 clamp screws, I would like to through-bolt the motor's bracket to the transom utilizing the holes (upper), and slots (lower) available on the mounting bracket.
The hardware provided with the outboard for this purpose are 5/16" diameter and, according to charts I have, the proper torque for 18-8 stainless steel bolts of this size is 132 inch pounds (11 foot pounds)
Seems like pretty light torque value. Of course, these 5/16 bolts are pretty small. What do you think?
Also, I have been paying attention to other installations and see that many folks are not using the lower mounting slots but just putting 2 bolts through the upper portion of the mounting bracket. The lower holes are at or below the waterline so that may be a concern. Another issue in that lower location is the fact that many boats (my Alumaweld included) only have un-reinforced single wall hull plating at the lower location of the transom whereas the upper bolts can be situated to go through the heavy, double wall, structure at the top edge of the transom. Of course, if I do drill the hull for the lower locations, I plan to use a piece of thick UHMW as a backing board inside the hull and also apply some Boatlife sealer to the bolts since the holes would be close to, or below, the waterline.
Really just looking for words of advice from the pro.
Use the torque specs recommended. I would use the upper holes only for the support and call it good. Won't hurt anything to use the other two if you want
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Old 03-29-2012, 07:01 PM   #3944
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc'

Hi Doc,

Got the water pump kit for my 1987 merc 115 hp straight 6.Installed it.Now I havent been able to get the lower unit back on.Now messing around with it.I think I need to get the lower unit back in neutral before putting it back together.Can you tell me how to do that.I found some info.But not sure its exactly right.And dont want to break anything.

Once I get it back to neutral should I be able to have my main shifter in neutral.Line up the water tube,and upper and lower shift shaft,as I slide the lower unit in.And have it go together.I read I may need to rotate the flywheel a bit too.

Sure would appreciate any other tip you may have to help me get this back together.

Thank you,
HntnFsh
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Old 03-30-2012, 10:53 AM   #3945
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Hi Doc,

Got the water pump kit for my 1987 merc 115 hp straight 6.Installed it.Now I havent been able to get the lower unit back on.Now messing around with it.I think I need to get the lower unit back in neutral before putting it back together.Can you tell me how to do that.I found some info.But not sure its exactly right.And dont want to break anything.

Once I get it back to neutral should I be able to have my main shifter in neutral.Line up the water tube,and upper and lower shift shaft,as I slide the lower unit in.And have it go together.I read I may need to rotate the flywheel a bit too.

Sure would appreciate any other tip you may have to help me get this back together.

Thank you,
HntnFsh
The way you are talking about will work fine, rotate the shift shaft counter clockwise till you feel resistance then turn it further till you feel it settle into a detent. At this point the prop will spin freely, then continue with the installation
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Old 03-31-2012, 06:52 AM   #3946
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc'

Thanks a bunch Doc. Got the unit back together last night and am ready for a test run as soon as we get a break in the deluge coming down.

I really appreciate all the help you have given out here for all of us.

Rick
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Old 04-02-2012, 08:04 AM   #3947
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Boat Doc,
I have 95 150HP 2L that I took the lower unit off to change the water pump Impeller.

Put it into forward gear took it apart, then I noticed that the lower unit is in neutral... Now I am stuck with mismatched unit and my throttle.

Finally I was able to get it into neutral and the control box in neutral plug it.
If I put my gear in forward I can turn the prob both way obviously with pressure since it's in the Motor but yes It is acting as if it was in forward and reverse gear at the same time.

Any advise is greatly appreciated.
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Old 04-02-2012, 01:01 PM   #3948
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Boat Doc,
I have 95 150HP 2L that I took the lower unit off to change the water pump Impeller.

Put it into forward gear took it apart, then I noticed that the lower unit is in neutral... Now I am stuck with mismatched unit and my throttle.

Finally I was able to get it into neutral and the control box in neutral plug it.
If I put my gear in forward I can turn the prob both way obviously with pressure since it's in the Motor but yes It is acting as if it was in forward and reverse gear at the same time.

Any advise is greatly appreciated.
I don't understand, does the prop turn freely both directions regardless of shift lever position?
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Old 04-03-2012, 06:50 AM   #3949
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I don't understand, does the prop turn freely both directions regardless of shift lever position?
Boat Doc, thank you for your response. I resolved this issue (not sure how)

If I shift to forward I was able to turn the prop (not freely since the drive shaft is in the powerhead) but I was able to turn it both directions.

I decided to run it and shift forward and reverse and N ...all is well still making me nervous though.

Thanks for all your help and advise,
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Old 04-08-2012, 08:36 AM   #3950
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Boat Doc

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Nick

Nick, I just got my 8hp Honda back from shop with same problem as you describe milky oil ($366.00). I was told the thermostat was stuck open and condensation caused the milky oil -- I had changed it 1 month prior.They put in "hotter" spark plugs. I will be checking for "milky oil" more often. I have had this engine for 8-9 years and have not had the milky oil before. Mine is a few years older but the coolant water from the engine always has been cold and still is after fixing the "stuck open" thermostat. I have also had the "oil event" 2 times and was told the engine runs cold, incomplete combustion puts fuel in the oil and it overfills. I don't fill the crankcase completely when I change the oil (annually) it is always full to over-full when I check it.. Things that make you go -- huh?
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Old 04-08-2012, 08:39 AM   #3951
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All you need to do is remove the gearcase. The water pump is on the top of the gearcase, should be a easy fix
Thanks, I'll do this after springer season. I was quoted $450 (not at Stevens) to have it done, seems a bit high?
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Old 04-08-2012, 09:47 AM   #3952
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc'

After being winterized, and having an oil change, a good buddy of mine pulled the dipstick on his boat and I was amazed. The oil looked like it was about a 3,000-5,000 mile car oil, dirty and black.

Would this be normal? Or did the dealership forget or omit the oil change. Engine is a big v8 on am offshore boat.
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Old 04-09-2012, 08:05 AM   #3953
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After being winterized, and having an oil change, a good buddy of mine pulled the dipstick on his boat and I was amazed. The oil looked like it was about a 3,000-5,000 mile car oil, dirty and black.

Would this be normal? Or did the dealership forget or omit the oil change. Engine is a big v8 on am offshore boat.
Either it wasn't done or they didn't get it all out when it was changed
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Old 04-09-2012, 08:38 AM   #3954
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc'

Hey Boat Doc, I have a 1996 Yamaha 60HP (2 stoke)

It wasn't peeing very good at idle, so I did a water pump rebuild.

Now it is peeing a little bit better, but it is still not where I think it should be.

What else can I check? I already checked the tube that leads outside the cowling, it is clear.

Thanks.
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Old 04-09-2012, 10:08 AM   #3955
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc'

boat doc, I previously had a post concerning my 94 2stoke 50hp merc tiller, it has no steering tensioner, I have the serial# 0G268935 is there a tensioner available for this? Thanks
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Old 04-10-2012, 08:31 AM   #3956
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Hey Boat Doc, I have a 1996 Yamaha 60HP (2 stoke)

It wasn't peeing very good at idle, so I did a water pump rebuild.

Now it is peeing a little bit better, but it is still not where I think it should be.

What else can I check? I already checked the tube that leads outside the cowling, it is clear.

Thanks.
If no alarms are sounding then it's fine. It may be there is a blockage further upstream from the outlet tube that is restricting water flow from the indicater tube. May want to do nothing
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Old 04-10-2012, 08:54 AM   #3957
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boat doc, I previously had a post concerning my 94 2stoke 50hp merc tiller, it has no steering tensioner, I have the serial# 0G268935 is there a tensioner available for this? Thanks
It's no longer available from Mercury, you could try Island Marine Salvage 503-366-0823
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Old 04-10-2012, 11:29 AM   #3958
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Thanks a bunch. I will replace the thermostat. I changed the oil and took it out yesterday and had the same problem so it needs to be done sooner than later. Which sucks, because springer season is upon us. It looks like there are a few seals I will need to replace on the carb and the exhaust manifold when I do this. Do you guys sell them online?

Just wanted to say thanks a bunch. I ordered the thermostat and gasket. Replaced it yesterday. The old one was definately stuck open. We have not taken it on the water yet, but I am confident this was the problem. Thanks again.

One other issue we are having just recently. We have a 04 TJ Luxor. The steering is the "stay where you steer it type" and is connected to a 115 Zuki OB. We were trolling the other day and the steering wheel had momentarily locked up on us half a dozen times. Has never done that before. Not sure where to start looking
Any suggestions, or experience on this type of steering as to why?

Thanks
Nick

Last edited by 4thluvafishin; 04-10-2012 at 11:51 AM. Reason: Bad Spelling
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Old 04-10-2012, 01:58 PM   #3959
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Just wanted to say thanks a bunch. I ordered the thermostat and gasket. Replaced it yesterday. The old one was definately stuck open. We have not taken it on the water yet, but I am confident this was the problem. Thanks again.

One other issue we are having just recently. We have a 04 TJ Luxor. The steering is the "stay where you steer it type" and is connected to a 115 Zuki OB. We were trolling the other day and the steering wheel had momentarily locked up on us half a dozen times. Has never done that before. Not sure where to start looking
Any suggestions, or experience on this type of steering as to why?

Thanks
Nick
The steering is probably no feed back, it has clutches in the helm that release when you apply pressure to the wheel. I would pull the cable from the engine and lube and clean it as necessary. If it still locks up you may need a helm or cable
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Old 04-10-2012, 09:01 PM   #3960
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc'

Boat Doc,

I have a 2000 4hp 4 stroke Mercury. It had been sitting for a while and did not want to start up. I cleaned the spark plug and took the carb apart to clean.

Carb was very dirty. Cleaned it really well, put it back together and reinstalled.

Motor fired up with the choke pulled half way out. Ran for 20 seconds, I pushed the choke in and it ran fine for about 45 more seconds. During this time, the throttle would change the idle speed like it should. Motor died.

Would not restart unless the choke was pulled all the way out. Then it would only run for 15-20 seconds and die. With the choke out, it would restart in 2 or 3 pulls and do the same thing. With the choke in it will not start. It restarted 10 to 15 times with the choke all the way out, but died after 15-30 seconds every time. While it was running in for these short times, the throttle did not seem to effect the idle speed in any way.

What should I be checking? I thought about cleaning the carb again? I did not replace the gasket when I cleaned it. Should I be looking for a carb kit? Something other than the carb?

Any advice is appreciated!

Thanks

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