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#1 |
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Steelhead
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Springfield
Posts: 332
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I want to buy an 8' pontoon boat to run on the rivers, but know nothing about the manufacturers and quality. What brand do you like and why. Thanks for the help.....
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#2 |
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Steelhead
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Lyons
Posts: 307
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WATER READY!!!
Local, ifish sponser, great service, will work with you for what your needs are. Demo's so you could try it out. I've had no issues with mine, but am confident Bruce would stand behind his work. Check'em out on the flyfishing forum. |
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#3 |
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Fry
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 16
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First, if you are buying one for river drifting, I would go with a 10ft boat or better. I think the Outcast boats are the best for the price....a ten footer will run about $600.00....
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#4 |
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Guest
Posts: n/a
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Outcast and Bucks Bags, both top notch. Love to run class 4 water in my 9' Bucks Bag even with a few days of gear stowed on the back. Bronco X now has 2 separate air chambers for added safety. They are build by guys who defected from Aire rafts and use the same concept: bladder inside a tough outter toon.
have fun, be safe, and don't forget the PFD!! DD |
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#5 |
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Steelhead
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 110
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I have a Bucks boat and take it everywhere. This is the last boat you will buy
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#6 |
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Tuna!
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: West Linn
Posts: 1,216
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Your going to get many different answers and you'll get even more info if you just do a search on "pontoon" as it's been discussed before too.
You can spend as little as $300 on a 10 footer and be perfectly happy. You can also spend as much as $2,000+ on the same size and yes it's a better boat. It's up to you.
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GS/WLW Team Omba-Bomba
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#7 |
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Steelhead
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Kelso, WA
Posts: 144
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I would definately get longer pontoons.
At least 9'. You will be very glad that you did!
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#8 |
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Coho
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 95
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I'm thrilled with my Bad Cats (I have two)...super solid, great in big water and easy to row. They're overbuilt and the frames are lifetime stout.
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#9 |
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Steelhead
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Kalama Washington
Posts: 453
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I will throw a second vote for the Bad Cat,I have a 12' and love it.
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#10 |
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Ifish Nate
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Beaverton, OR USA
Posts: 3,163
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Dont forget that over 10' and you will have to get a $5 permit for it
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#11 |
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Cutthroat
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 32
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I would definately go with a 9 or 10 foot for the rivers. I have a 10 ft creek company and I love it.
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#12 |
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Steelhead
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 101
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Go with a 9' Bucks bag, been loving mine for years.
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#13 |
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Coho
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Bend
Posts: 89
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You get what you pay for. I've had a buck's bag for about 10 years and recently had the chance to row a skookum guide......WOW. Bill builds them with no shortcuts. The 10' guide model will carry around 800 pounds fully loaded, rated class V, and is made out of the heaviest material available that I'm aware of. It it's worth it to check them out.
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#14 |
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Tuna!
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: washougal wa. u.s.a.
Posts: 1,175
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Like been stated before it all depends on what you want to do, If you just want to drift small mellow rivers just going from hole to hole and getting out to fish then a small inexpensive unit will do just fine, But if you want something that fishes more like a db something you can stand up on backtroll and handle white water then you need to step up to at least a 9fter in the higher end range like a tuffcat, badcat, or a skookum.
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Happiness is putting new felt soles on my waders when summer steelhead fishing. Go play outside! |
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#15 |
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Tuna!
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Colton
Posts: 1,708
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Like my Bucks !!
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#16 |
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Steelhead
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Damascus
Posts: 234
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Take a look at this..
http://www.bigskyinflatables.com/ I have one of these and they are the best I've seen. Comes with a pack and you can stand up in them to fish without it floating away. It is also very stable. We took them down the Gold river on Vancouver Island. Looking back that was NOT very smart but they kept us upright and the guy who had a pontoon boat flipped over. Not trying to say all pontoon boats are going to do the same but it feels good to have the boat all the way around you for stability. The price is a little high but I think its worth it.
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JUST LIVING THE DREAM!!!! TEAM PAPAS... Last edited by Capt. MoMo's; 07-23-2009 at 08:26 PM. |
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#17 |
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Fish for brains
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: The Couve
Posts: 386
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Bucks, Outcast, ODC Creek Co, Dave Scadden (both the old company, and the new one)... all decent boats, but none compare to Water Ready, Bad Cat, or FishCraft. Whole different class of boats IMHO.
Of course, I'm a fat guy, so larger pontoons are good for me. Jacks plastic welding makes some rockin good tubes too. One thing I always hated was the crappy pontoon bags... Moving to a welded up tube was a huge improvement. That all said, I sold my 14ft FishCraft a couple years ago and moved up to a drift boat. So maybe there is new stuff out there.
__________________
Fisherman (n) A Jerk at one end of a line, waiting for a Jerk at the other. Spill Baby Spill! |
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#18 |
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Cutthroat
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Tacoma WA
Posts: 35
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I researched pontoon boats for over a year before I took the dive. Firstly let me explain a little bit about the difference between a pontoon boat and a cataraft. Pontoon boats typically have the same diameter pontoons regardless of length of pontoon, whereas a cataraft usually has a larger diameter pontoon in regards to it's length. Now if you just plan on using it in lakes and some very mild river current, a pontoon boat is plenty good. I ended up buying a Skookum Steelheader guide model and I must say I couldnt be happier. It has 10' X 19" pontoons and has a load rating of 1000 lbs. I carry an 80 qt cooler, net, 2 rods and all my tackle and am completely comfortable in it. It also has a platform in which to stand on to rest your feet on as opposed to the footpegs found on most pontoon boats. My particular model will easily do class IV and V rapids which I dont recommend for folks that arent familiar with whitewater, but bottom line is, the frame and pontoons will handle it. Depending on what you want and where you wish to fish will determine your best choice. Good luck with your selection
Last edited by Heckler; 07-22-2009 at 08:33 PM. |
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#19 |
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Tuna!
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,584
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Ive had two bucks 8 footers. Im 210 put a 30# trolling motor and a small 12v on the back for lake fishing. just leave the oars in the water for steering. They have several options for motor mounts including one between your legs.
That said. Look at the denier rating. its a combination material. heavier is better, but heavier is harder to drag around or carry. big frames same thing. If I was a flyfisherman most of the time, Id recommend 10 footer so you can stand up. I stand on my eight but Im crazy. Inside bladders are either made of PVC or polyurethane. Poly is more durable. PVC will crack and doesnt like to be FOLDED. Only two things will really rupture the bag. REBAR and the right snag. I would not get worried about the skins unless your gonna run the class five water. Plan on fishing from shore. Its not a drift boat. One man cant do it all. Last edited by Lead Bouncer; 07-22-2009 at 11:40 PM. |
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#20 |
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Steelhead
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 453
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Bucks Bronco, best I have ever seen.
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#21 |
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Fry
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 16
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Another vote for Bucks. We've had 3 (8'--11') for ~10 years and have never had any issues.
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#22 |
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Steelhead
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 109
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I have a Scadden Skykomish Sunrise ST.
it is great. the 30Oz PCV shell is tough as nails and the boat is pretty stable, even loaded down with beer/gear |
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#23 |
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Ifish Nate
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Salem, OR
Posts: 2,263
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Check out WaterReady.
Bruce makes the finest top notch quality boats. You will be happy with them for sure.
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#24 | |
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Steelhead
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Redmond, Oregon
Posts: 235
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Quote:
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#25 |
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Cutthroat
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Klamath Falls
Posts: 31
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Well here's my two cents, keep in mind these are my opinions, you mileage may vary.
I raft way more then I fish, and have been doing so for a long time. I'll be the first to admit I don't know much about these smaller fishing inflatables, but I do know a lot about professional quality rafts and catarafts. I've now read a couple of posts above from people suggesting you could use these little fishing cats running class 4 and 5 rivers, I'm sorry, but I have to vehemently disagree with anyone suggesting to do so. To make such claims is akin to running a barrel over Niagara falls, any fool can do it, but your chances of surviving are not so good. I've rowed enough class 4 and 5 water to know these boats are NOT suitable for heavy water and anyone attempting to do so is putting themselves in more danger then they obviously know. Here's a few examples of why: The tubes are too short and will not provide enough longitudinal support to keep the boat from either flipping over the front or back if the boat has to punch a big hole or wave. God help you if you ever got surfed in a really big hole in one of these boats. The tubes are too small in diameter to keep the boat floating high enough in heavily aerated water to keep the boat maneuverable, or maybe worse, the oarsman from getting swept off from a big lateral wave, or sucked out by big holes. The frames are too narrow. What happens if the boat happens to come off a big drop, which are very common on class 4 and 5 rapids, sideways? Almost a guaranteed flip. Big water boats are wider for a reason, stability.The frames are also too small in diameter, and more importantly not designed to stand up to the constant torque and twisting a boat is put through when running big, rough water. Same goes for the little toothpick size oars that come with these boats. Just for comparison's sake, my NRS frames are made out of 1-3/8" inner dimension 1-5/8 outer dimension anodised aluminum pipe, the stuff is bomber. The Sawyer composite oars I use for big water are almost 2-1/4" dia. To some extent class 4, and for sure class 5 water, require a very large commitment from the boater attempting to run rapids like these. He/she needs to fully understand they may swim at any time after entering them. IMO, to even think about putting your life, and possibly your passengers life, in danger while rowing a craft that was never really designed for big water is ridiculous to the extreme, and my advise to people doing so is to put the money they saved buying one of these little boats into a good PFD, cause your gonna need it sooner rather then later. So...I know there are some pretty strict rules about promoting certain brands on this board if they don't advertise here. So I wont give my opinion on what type of inflatables I own, and think are best, on the open board (although I think I have in the past), but will do so if requested in a PM or e-mail. Mike Last edited by Wood Elf; 08-04-2009 at 09:10 PM. |
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#26 |
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Coho
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Bend
Posts: 89
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I very much agree with what you're saying Mike but I will tell you that some of these small pontoons/catarafts handle incredibly well. You can skirt most danger because the footprint is small and they manuever SO much better than any raft. I've guided for many years and worked as a scout for various river organizations and I can tell you that I've personally taken a 10' toon through 4+ water many times and never felt nervous. If the boater is skilled enough the boat can handle it. To each their own but I'm thinking that most people who are looking at this type of toon will never put it to these kinds of tests
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#27 |
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Ifish Nate
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: CR Troutdale
Posts: 3,201
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I heard Bucks Bags closed, is this true? They were always my favorite.
__________________
Team Northriver Shimano Lamiglas Pro NW Guides and Anglers Association |
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#28 | |
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Cutthroat
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Klamath Falls
Posts: 31
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Quote:
I suppose the point I am trying to make is, I'm sure these boats are great for fishing/floating more docile waters, probably up to class 3 stuff, but if you really want to run bigger water, do yourself and the siwftwater rescue crews in your area a favor, step up to professional quality and size of boats/gear. Mike Last edited by Wood Elf; 08-05-2009 at 02:29 PM. |
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#29 | |
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Chromer
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: NW Oregon
Posts: 513
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Quote:
Dan |
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#30 |
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Steelhead
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Springfield, OR
Posts: 331
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I have an 8' Water Skeeter. It works great for fishing lakes and hauling a little tackle. If I get into ANY river white water it splashes me in the butt. Kinda refreshing in the summer, but always a shock. I don't use it in the winter, its just not big enuf. I think you get the hint. Go Big!
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#31 | |
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Steelhead
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Springfield, OR
Posts: 331
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Quote:
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#32 |
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Ifish Nate
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Tigard
Posts: 2,805
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My money is on water ready
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#33 |
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Fry
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1
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As for tube length. I respectfully disagree. This is based on almost 20 years of whitewater kayaking. When I started, our boats were 14' long. It was a radical movement of change when even 12' boats appeared. We swore everyone would die. Then 10' boats hit the scene and even the way we used them changed. Fast forward. My last but was 6'2 and not even the smallest by far for the mainstream purchasers. More moves are done with my boat in only a week than we accomplished in 5 years in the big boats. All this on the same water? Heck no. Bigger water.
The point is, just because there is change, don't count it out. I personally run Class IV with a 9' long, 14" dia. pair of tubes. Granted, I will be buying longer and wider tubes for spring. Not because it can't be done safely, but rather because I'm older and fatter! I will be on Class V with 11', 16" dia tubes and don't feel I'm harming anyone. However, I have the experience also. FWIW, I like Scadden's tubes. Would buy again from them without question. Have rowed cheaper toons and this is what I really like. John Legg home waters of Fayetteville WV btw. we have big damn water in WV. Search the New or Gauley Rivers Last edited by john legg; 10-11-2009 at 10:02 PM. Reason: addition |
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