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Old 12-04-2003, 07:59 AM   #1
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We tryed this once and I didn't respond in the correct format. So here we go again. We will try to answer all maintenance or mechanical related questions within a day or two excluding weekends and holidays.
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Old 12-04-2003, 08:30 AM   #2
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc\' Forum

But-- You can do it, right here on the main forum! The Boat Doc forum went "POOF!" and now, we are just going to do it on the main board. :smile:

I think it will be more fun that way! :smile:

Dear Boat Doc:

How come Bill won't buy me a boat?

Jen
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Old 12-04-2003, 08:33 AM   #3
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc\' Forum

Boat Doc,

I have an 89 60Hp merc. Wanted to know what you think about adding a fuel/water seperator. Worth it? Does it change the fuel line pressure enough to cause problems?

Thanks
El Kabong

[ 12-04-2003, 02:49 PM: Message edited by: El-Kabong ]
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Old 12-04-2003, 09:30 AM   #4
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc\' Forum

Boat Doc answered my question by email. Is it okay to post the original question and answer? Should I?
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Old 12-04-2003, 09:55 AM   #5
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[img]graemlins/applause.gif[/img] Welcome aboard Boat Doc' [img]graemlins/applause.gif[/img]
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Old 12-04-2003, 10:23 AM   #6
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc\' Forum

Dear Boat Doc, Why are sport-jets so hard to start? If I have'nt run mine in 3 -4 days, it seems to take forever to fire. Is there a sure fire starting sequence that will speed things up a bit? I occasionally run a bottle of the quicksilver fuel system cleaner.
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Old 03-22-2004, 08:28 PM   #7
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Today I took my Zodiac out, i have a 1999 Yamie 15hp. Its a tiller handle model. When i shifted the gear to "forward" the handle on the tiller wouldnt turn past half throttle.. So basically i had to troll all day, whioch i dont mind, but it would be nice to be able to go fast again. heh... I noticed whenever I would pull start thee engine, the rope would able to be pulled, and if i were to shift the gears in "forward" position then i wouldnt be able to pull the "pull start" rope. but now i am able to pull the rope, and cant go past half throttle.
Basically the engine still "thinks" its in nuetral.. Even when i shift the gear to "forward"
Hopefully someone can help me out here, i wanna get a springer, this spring break. I dont want to have to get it professionally fixed

Thank you, and Tight lines, Dylan
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Old 03-23-2004, 10:08 AM   #8
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Dylan, I am not that familiar with that model, however there has to be some mechanical linkage that has slipped or come loose. If you can't see it then you would probably have to take it to a dealer. Or try the discussion board and see if any body else has experienced the problem
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Old 10-02-2005, 06:48 PM   #9
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc\' Forum

Dear Boat Doc,

We had a 20' Custom Sled built with a 6 degree bottom built on it. The area where the shoe lines up on the bottom of the boat is a flat area about a foot wide, then the deadrise goes out to each side.

My question is, we are mounting a 200hp 2001 Yamaha V-max jet on it. What is the recommend mounting height with respect to the shoe and the bottom of the boat. Do you make it flush or up a little or down?? There is about a 3" tab where the bottom extends past the back of the transom.

Thanks in Advance,
Ryan Musgrove
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Old 10-08-2005, 10:58 PM   #10
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Doc,

I just got the motor back from the shop after getting the 10 hour breaking service completed. The motor has less power now, and blubblers like a rich running dirt bike.

It was running 50:1 mix in the fuel tank, and then mixed again 100:1 at the motor while breaking it in (as per Yamaha). Now it is just running straight fuel to the motor, and mixing 100:1 there. I did not get the impression that the jetting was ever touched, nor do I remember it saying to do so in the manual.

From my ATV days, if you decrease your fuel/oil ratio on a motor without rejetting, it will run rich. I lost nearly 1K RPM, and it won't get up on plane properly.

Edit: I fumbled around the manual and found that it has a listing for two different NGK spark plug types for this motor. However when I pop the cowl off the motor it has a label right on the base of the motor that says which plug to use.
NGK-B7HS-10

The two plugs in the manual are:
NGK-B7HS-10
NGK-BR7HS-10 (with resistor)

The label, the spares I picked up when I purchased the boat, and the ones that were in the motor when I purchased the boat, all say NGK-B7HS-10.

The plugs in there now are the NGK-BR7HS-10 (with resistor)
type. Would this cause the motor to lose power, and act like it running rich?

Thanks in advance,

INSAYN
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Old 04-16-2004, 08:51 PM   #11
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc\' Forum

Hi boat doc.I have a 86 8hp. merc runs great at sea level but when I go to the high mt. lakes it runs ruff and dies at low rpms, hard to troll.What to do?
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Old 04-18-2004, 04:33 PM   #12
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc\' Forum

I have a 1989? yami 4 hp that has a bad water pump impeller. how easy is it to replace? Are there any special tools needed, how much does it cost, and where is it located. do you suggest that i take it in, or is it a simple fix. any help would be greatly appreciated
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Old 04-20-2004, 04:52 PM   #13
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TTT
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Old 04-22-2004, 08:51 AM   #14
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Bobberboy, water pump is easy to change, just unbolt the lower unit and it sits on top. We don't service them. I would guess you would pay a dealer around 125.00, Make sure you get a quote before you drop it off somewhere.
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Old 04-22-2004, 08:46 AM   #15
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Sorry for the delay on these posts. Just got back from service training on Mercurys new Verado outboard. Supercharged 200 thru 275 4 stroke! Way cool stuff.


Grayghost, you will need to readjust your idle mixture screw to get it to idle at higher altitudes. Screw it in till it smooths out and it should be fine. If the top end power loss is unacceptable you can try a smaller pitch prop.
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Old 04-22-2004, 09:17 AM   #16
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Hi Boat Doc'

Per your suggestion, I got the diaphram kit for my 200 Black Max and replaced the old one.

I think I even re-assembled everything right. :shocked:

But after doing do, I took the boat out and had the same problem, That is, the ball goes flat. Fuel is not getting delivered properly. As long as I use a "manual fuel pump override" (i.e. someone pumps the ball), it runs fine.

The fuel pump is not leaking.

I was noticing that there is a fuel filter after the fuel pump and befor the carb. Is it possible that is is the culprit? And if so, is it a standard replacement item, or do I need to take the old one in to get a new one?

Thoughts?

Thanks!
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Old 09-17-2009, 11:41 AM   #17
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc\' Forum

Quote:
Originally Posted by El-Kabong View Post
Boat Doc,

I have an 89 60Hp merc. Wanted to know what you think about adding a fuel/water seperator. Worth it? Does it change the fuel line pressure enough to cause problems?

Thanks
El Kabong

[ 12-04-2003, 02:49 PM: Message edited by: El-Kabong ]
Boat Doc,

I also have a mid 80's 8hp merc. what was the answer to this ? and what size merv filter should I use?
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Old 09-17-2009, 12:47 PM   #18
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Quote:
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Boat Doc,

I also have a mid 80's 8hp merc. what was the answer to this ? and what size merv filter should I use?
Fuel water seperaters should be used on any application that doesn't already have one in the engine compartment- yours does not. Mercury only offers one size
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Old 12-09-2007, 08:56 PM   #19
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howdy boat doc ,,been looking for a tiller for my 92 merc classic 40 for months cant seem to find one anywhere,internet ebay marine dealers ,any ideas where i could find one..thanks
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Old 12-10-2007, 07:42 AM   #20
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We can get you one, however they run about 630.00 bucks. There should be lots of used ones around. Look for any 4 cylinder 40,45 or 50 horsepower handle.
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Old 12-10-2007, 10:06 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boat Doc' View Post
We can get you one, however they run about 630.00 bucks. There should be lots of used ones around. Look for any 4 cylinder 40,45 or 50 horsepower handle.
thank you very much for the info i will look
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Old 12-13-2007, 01:11 PM   #22
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thank you very much for the info i will look
Hi boat doc would this tiller work for my mer classic 40 4 cyl the part #816366a22 thanks again
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Old 03-22-2004, 12:31 PM   #23
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Boat Doc,
I have Custom Weld with ATJ 312 Pump. It's a single lever with Best Reverse. Reverse thrust is poor to say the least. Heard about the Xstream bucket that is made for the ATJ309, can it be used on the 312 and is the thrust better? Is their much advantage in changing bucket? Thanks in advance for your response.
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Old 03-23-2004, 09:43 AM   #24
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Swim Shady, They currently make a kit for your pump that includes a dual lever shifter with cable and bucket. They run about 1200.00. They are working on a kit for your control that would run about half that. Projected availability is June or July.
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Old 03-24-2004, 12:18 AM   #25
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Boat Doc,

I have a 93 18' Alumaweld Intruder (from Stevens) that the fuel sensor/gauge assemblies are tied into the navigation lights. I'm told this was standard...at least for this year. The fuel gauge doesn't work, although everything else on that circuit/switch seems to work okay. It acts like a dead short (pegs out bellow empty) no matter the tank level. I've replaced or cleaned any corroded connections, with no results. My guess would be that the fuel tank sensor assembly itself is bad, but am tempted to just replace both sensor and switch.

-Would you suggest replacing both switch and sensor?
-Is that a fairly commonly replaced part(s)?
-It would appear fairly simple to switch out the level sensor, but would like your opinion on that please?
-If you agree, is it best I bring in the old unit(s) to match it up? or does a phone call typically do the job on ordering the replacement sensor and switch?

thank you for helping us all!
I assure you, we appreciate it.
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Old 03-24-2004, 09:37 AM   #26
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PlugnAway, the sender is the most common component to fail, if you let us know the depth of the tank we can fix you up over the phone. The way to check it is to turn on the power to the gauge. jump between the sender wire and ground wire post on the tank. The gauge should peg itself. If it does the sender is bad or misadjusted. If it doesnt then the wiring or gauge is haywire. Make certain you do NOT apply power to the sender wire!
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Old 03-24-2004, 03:52 PM   #27
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Boat Doc, Thank you VERY much! :smile:
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Old 03-24-2004, 08:52 AM   #28
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Default Re: Stevens Marine Boat Doc\' Forum

Mr Boat Doctor.
I have a serious question about my 150 hp. Optimax.
I posted the question on the ifish community forum and again on the Salty dogs ,, I just got the link to this thread.
If you can read the Question from the other forums and give a reply it would be great. Thanks much. Chris
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Old 03-24-2004, 09:45 AM   #29
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Chris, there is a few things that could cause rpm loss and a solid horn. Make sure you fix the problem before you run it.
overheat- water pump
overspeed-prop hub or under propped
air compresser overheat- plugged water supply to compresser
low water pressure-water pump
engine oil reservoir at critical level- refill and verify supply

Hope this helps, check the above if you dont find the problem you would have to take it to a dealer, they or we have the computer to hook up for pinpoint diagnostics
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Old 03-24-2004, 11:04 AM   #30
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Thanks so much. At least I have a solid list of things to look at . I will take it to the dealer and have the guys there check it. I will mention the exact items you list and go from there.
I did continue to run it after this happened . I hope I didnt hurt it ? The alarm was off and seemed to run great. :whazzup: id. p.
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Old 04-07-2004, 12:01 PM   #31
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Thanks Boat Doc and Stevens Marine! This is outstanding!

I have a 1968 Merc 650 and Im interested in some trolling. Can I put a trolling plate on without damaging the motor? Ive heard that idling larger 2-strokes for extended periods is bad. Thanks in advance. Cheers - Spine
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Old 04-07-2004, 12:32 PM   #32
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Boat Doc,

I still havent been able to fix my outboard. Could you let me know what kind of prices i would be looking at if i brought my engine in to have it fixed by one of your guys. As you probably remember, i have not able to rev any higher than idle in the forward gear. Any college student discount would be gladly accepted. Just kiddin, I just want to get out on the water!... And get some springer blood onto the deck of my Zodiac.
Tight Lines, Dylan
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Old 04-07-2004, 02:34 PM   #33
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Spine, It should be fine, the most extended idling might do is cause a carbon build up but if you run it at higher speeds back to the dock it should be ok.
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Old 03-26-2010, 11:50 AM   #34
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Boat Doc, I'm in the market for new 15-20 hp motor for my 14' Gregor. My motor service person says go two stroke. Just wondered what your opinion is. Also I think I'm going with electric start. What make and model do you suggest?
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Old 03-26-2010, 12:38 PM   #35
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Also Boat Doc' in your educated opinion what would be the upper limits on horsepower that I could get away with on a motor for my 18 foot Jetcraft. I now have a 90 Yamaha, I want more power and go to a Merc. Thank you, W D Clark
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Old 03-27-2010, 02:32 PM   #36
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Boat Doc,

I have a 2003 Honda 9.9, 4 stroke outborad. The motor starts right up and runs fine, then quits. Shift back in to neutral and it starts right back up. Troll along for a while, and it quits. Shift back in to neutral, hit the starter it fires right up. It does not sputter prior to quiting. It will go for 20 minutes and quit. Or it might go for an hour and then quit. Other than that, the motor runs just fine. New fuel filter. Plugs look good. What should I be looking for in the way of a fix?

Thanks,

Orion
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Old 03-29-2010, 09:51 AM   #37
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Also Boat Doc' in your educated opinion what would be the upper limits on horsepower that I could get away with on a motor for my 18 foot Jetcraft. I now have a 90 Yamaha, I want more power and go to a Merc. Thank you, W D Clark
I would look at the highest power based on what the boat is rated for. Ideally 150/105 jet Optimax if its rated for it.
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Old 03-29-2010, 09:48 AM   #38
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Boat Doc, I'm in the market for new 15-20 hp motor for my 14' Gregor. My motor service person says go two stroke. Just wondered what your opinion is. Also I think I'm going with electric start. What make and model do you suggest?
If youre looking at new you have no choice but 4 stroke. You would have to go back about 6-8 years used to find a 2 stroke. Make sure you look at weight as part of your consideraion of 4 strokes. The 20-25 can get heavy for your application
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Old 04-09-2004, 10:02 AM   #39
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Dear Boat Doc'

I got 2 questions only, nothing is broken on the wood.
I got 6 HP Evinrude, and 48 HP Evinrude 2stroke. ~96, 93.

1. Is there a fuel additive to help clean carbs, kinda like fuel injector cleaners to the car gas tank.?
2 Is there any or big demage to start, or crank those engines outside the water for a few seconds.

Tnaks.
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Old 04-09-2004, 10:39 AM   #40
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Boat doc, thanks for the reply, won't run the motor dry any more. You recommend opening it up for inspection, but it still spits water like it always has, a steady, strong, cold stream and runs like a top. Did I get lucky, or could the H2O pump still be damaged and need inspection?
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Old 04-09-2004, 01:22 PM   #41
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Stevo, If it was run dry it for a minute it has to have some kind of damage, it may not be a problem know but at some point it will. You may want to check it now so it doesn't let you down when you need it.
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Old 04-13-2004, 12:40 PM   #42
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Boat Doc,
I have a 175 SJ in my 2000 NR and I was wondering if there is a way to improve the charging capabilities of this motor. I've noticed that the injected models of this motor have an alternator. is this a possible retrofit?
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Old 04-13-2004, 01:04 PM   #43
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Jetman, there is no higher output charging systems available, the injected models use a different cylinder block. You have a 15 amp system which should be adequate for most applications. You might check it to make sure it is functioning.
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Old 04-09-2004, 01:10 PM   #44
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Dinikin, You can get fuel additives that will help remove varnish, but if there is other contamination the only way to remove it is by disassembly. As far running it without water, it is not recommended because you have a rubber impeller inside of a metal housing. It will get hot and melt the rubber if run long enough. Everybody including myself does it for a few seconds but it is not recommended.
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Old 04-13-2004, 10:02 AM   #45
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Dear Boat Doc'

Last weekend after driving my 200 Black Max Jet (96) for quite awhile, it suddenly and spontaneously lost all power and died, like it was fuel starved.

It started right back up, but as soon as throttle was applied it died again.

My first thought was the water separator, so I putted to a marina, got a new one, and filled boat the gas tank and oil.

Again, it started fine and idled fine, but once power was applied after about 30 seconds the same thing happened.

Later in the day I noticed that the fuel ball was soft. So as an experiment I had Fishing Is Life continually squeeze the ball while applied power.

Sure enough, it ran fine under this method.

So, from that, am I concluding correctly that this is likely to be a fuel pump gone bad?

And presuming that is correct, how big an effort is required to replace the fuel pump? I know getting it in and out of the shop in a timely fashion this time of year is a challenge, so I would be willing to do it on my own if it isn't too technical.

In that vein, is there a shop manual or even better an on-line Merc manual I can/should be looking at?

It would sure beat expecting my buddies to become human manual fuel pumps!


Thanks,

Hogmaster
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Old 04-13-2004, 12:57 PM   #46
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Hogmaster, They make a diaphragm kit for your fuel pump that is easy to install and comes with directions and pictures. When you take it off also look at the pulse line coming from the block and make sure it is not broken or cracked.
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Old 04-13-2004, 02:03 PM   #47
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Thanks Boat Doc'!

Are you meaning that I may need (only) the diaphram kit as opposed to the whole fuel pump assembly?
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Old 04-13-2004, 02:26 PM   #48
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Hogmaster, if you have a carburated motor the fuel pump is easily rebuildable. You do not need to replace it as an assembly unless the casting is broke. The kit runs about $12.00.
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Old 04-13-2004, 04:08 PM   #49
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Kuellll!!!!!!!!!!!!!



You ARE the man!!!!

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Old 04-24-2004, 09:58 AM   #50
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Boat Doc, judyfish99 here, doing a favor for a friend...he has a 1987 15hp johnson long shaft. Uses 100:1 gas mixture. Higer rpms it will pee out water (his words, not mine) and at low idle, there is no sign of water being ejected. Is there a fix he can do? Thanks so much, judyfish99
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Old 04-24-2004, 09:04 PM   #51
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Boat Doc - Thanks for answering someones post awhile back about starting large hp two stroke Mercs. I bought mine used two years ago and it was always hard starting. You said hold the key in for a count of 10. Bamb, every time now it fires with one turn of the key. Thanks again!!!
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Old 04-24-2004, 09:16 PM   #52
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Boat doc, I have a mid 90's two stroke 15hp merc kicker. It starts and runs fine, but occasionally it will suddenly lose power (as in instantly, as if it had lost a cylinder). I know the plugs are good. When it does this, I have to give it more throttle to keep it running and it won't idle. It will suddenly start running good again after awhile, just like somebody flipped a switch. TIA... Joe
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Old 04-26-2004, 09:19 AM   #53
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Joe, problems that are intermittent are difficult to diagnose. The most common component that we see is the switch box. It is mounted on port side exhaust cover. If you buy it from Stevens and it turns out not to be the problem I would authorize a refund.
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Old 04-26-2004, 10:52 AM   #54
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I'll give that a whirl. Thanks Doc
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Old 04-26-2004, 09:50 AM   #55
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Dear Boat Doc,

I was anchored Saturday, and when it was time to go, the motor wouldn't start. It would turn over, but not fire. I took it home, and get no spark from the spark plugs at all. It is a 1995 Suzuki 100 Hp Jet, dt140? motor. I think I may have lost the CDI powerpack, but before spending 750 bucks on a new one, is there anything else to check?

Thanks,
Aaron
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Old 04-26-2004, 02:03 PM   #56
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Aaron, it would sure be unusual for a module to fail but it could happen. Before you order one up check the lanyard switch if it has one and make sure it didnt get turned off. Also look at the wiring where it goes thru any bulkheads and the engine cowl to make sure nothing is pinched. After that I would recommend having it diagnosed by a technician so you dont get stuck with an expensive part that may not be bad.
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Old 04-26-2004, 10:26 AM   #57
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I tee'd off the main fuel line to run a kicker, after running the main the primer bulb for the kicker was colasped and would not fill with fuel? i was told to run a three way off the filter/seperator. isn't there an easier way... i would like to be able to run both motors at the same time. main motor is a 300 hp 351 and the kicker is a yamaha 9.9 four stroke. will the fuel pump put to much pressure at the kicker carb?
thanks
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Old 04-26-2004, 02:14 PM   #58
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Sam, make sure the primer bulb is hanging vertically so the check valves will function. As for the plumbing you should have the main line from the tank going to the water seperator with a check valve at the tank fitting. Have the troller plumbed to the seperater with no check valve. The main engine should also plumb to the seperater with a check valve. This will prevent the troller from drawing fuel from the main engine and then run out of fuel. If the bulb still collapses then check the check valve on the tank for restrictions or the bulb itself.
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Old 04-26-2004, 06:04 PM   #59
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Boat Doc:

Thanks for your support. My question is I just bought a sled w/a 200\140, and I'm wondering if water is suposed to come out the 'p' hole in a steady stream or does this moter have a thermestate, seems to dribble out till i'm on the throtle. (the moter is a merc).

thank-you in advance.

Dave:
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Old 04-27-2004, 01:29 PM   #60
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Dave, some models don,t pee water well at low rpm. If no alarms are sounding then it is ok. You might try sticking a peice of wire in tell tale hole while it is running as they can get restricted by debris.
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