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Old 09-21-2006, 03:23 PM   #1
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Default Ask me! Electronics, autopilots, and hydraulics expert help

By popular request, and due to the great relationship with Ifish over the years, we will now be offering a post for TR-1 Autopilot users or potential customers a place to talk about TR-1 Autopilots. Feel free to ask any questions you might have. I will attempt to answer any pre-purchase, installation, usage/technique, technical support or any other questions you may have. I will monitor the thread M-F 8-5 PT, as much as possible as long as I am in the office, and evenings and weekends when I get time or if there's hot topics. If I do plan to be out and will not be able to respond I will post that as well. If you have an immediate concern please don't hesitate to call 800-588-7655 (TR-1 Factory Support) to have your questions answered. Also, we will be offering an Ifish discount through October, call me for details.

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Old 09-21-2006, 03:36 PM   #2
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Is it possible that I could have the first question? Okay so here it goes. I have a TR-1 autopilot on my boat that was installed in early May. How often do you need to check/change the oil in the pump? And what oils do you recommend? By the way I absolutely love it!!
Thanks
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Old 09-21-2006, 03:41 PM   #3
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

You are offically the first one The maintenance is just to look at the fluid level occasionally. You should not need to add fluid. If you do have to add fluid then there is a problem somewhere. You can use the biodegradeable fluid we supply (BioSoy) or Dextron III ATF is an acceptable sub.

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Old 09-21-2006, 03:59 PM   #4
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I'm getting a new / differnt boat by next spring.
I would like to put a TR1 on it and network it to a chart plotter and maybe radar. Does this work??? what chart plotter / radar does it work with???
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Old 09-21-2006, 04:21 PM   #5
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The only thing you need to look for in getting new GPS is that it must have a NMEA 0183 communication port (any software version of NMEA). Most every unit that is not a bottom shelf brand has this capability nowdays, so you should be pretty safe in choosing.

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Old 06-25-2012, 06:53 PM   #6
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow Drag-on View Post
... You can use the biodegradeable fluid we supply (BioSoy) or Dextron III ATF is an acceptable sub.

Robert
So adding Dextron III ATF to existing Bio-Soy in the tank is acceptable and will not cause any damage to the seals?

Also, how many wires are there in the remote cable? I'd like to extend the cable about 5' so it'll reach the helm.

thanks

Last edited by Seon; 06-26-2012 at 05:58 AM.
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Old 06-26-2012, 07:48 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seon View Post
So adding Dextron III ATF to existing Bio-Soy in the tank is acceptable and will not cause any damage to the seals?

Also, how many wires are there in the remote cable? I'd like to extend the cable about 5' so it'll reach the helm.

thanks
Yes, you can use atf, but the preference is to use the environmentally safe biosoy.

The controller cord is a 4 conductor wire.
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Old 06-26-2012, 04:56 PM   #8
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Default Re: Ask me! Electronics, autopilots, and hydraulics expert help

Robert, thanks for your reply.

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Old 09-21-2006, 05:45 PM   #9
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Quote:
free to ask any questions you might have. I will attempt to answer any pre-purchase, installation, usage/technique, technical support or any other questions you may have.

Wow, I really expected this to draw interest more quickly and end up out of control! You can ask anything...
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Old 09-21-2006, 05:52 PM   #10
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Ok Number 1: why does a $2600 dollar investment only have a one year warrenty? If you only fish spring, summer, fall,Like alot of us, the warrenty time is even shorter. Just wondering.

Number Two: why does the $350 wireless system come with a key pad that is compleatly inapropriate for marine use. It will short out every time it rains. I think you should redesign it and give free replacements for all thats bought them. I know know one that has not had this problem.

#3: Now I can tell you the rest of the system is GREAT! best d***** thing I ever bought for my boat.
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Old 09-21-2006, 06:09 PM   #11
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RB,

First, I pose a question to you: What other marine electronics, in that price range, do you have that come with a longer warranty? I know Lowrance and Garmin only offer one year on all their stuff, and they do not have parts in the bilge or exposed to the elements.

We do offer an extended warranty (for 2 years) for the nominal cost of $199. We are toying with a couple of ideas in regards to warranty... we'll have to see what happens next year...

You can pop apart the keyfaub and silicone the edges of it to help seal it. The FCC will not allow us, as a manufacturer, to do it because they say it may change the transmit characteristics. We looked at a couple of completely waterproof versions, and let me say that it would be more than $350! I fish over here on the coast all fall in an open boat. It rains man, real rain, a lot. I didn't have problems with mine getting too wet. It was on a retractable key chain attached to my pants, so it did spend some time undercover, but not a lot.

If you haven't seen my reply in the main forum yet, I also mentioned to give me a call and we'll work something out for you.

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Old 09-21-2006, 07:57 PM   #12
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Is it normal for a little of the biosoy fluid to leak out from where the lines leave the pump. I was told that it is when I bought it four years ago. It has leaked a little each time I use the unit .
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Old 09-21-2006, 08:15 PM   #13
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Quote:
Is it normal for a little of the biosoy fluid to leak out from where the lines leave the pump. I was told that it is when I bought it four years ago. It has leaked a little each time I use the unit .
There is really no reason that you should have to deal with that. We had a plastic line with quick lock fittings a few years ago when they first came out. Those fittings had a tendancy to fail. We quit using them. We use a rubber hose with barb fittings and hose clamps. That should not leak. If you want a hose kit just give me a call tomorrow and we'll write it up. It's only $48 for everything you need.

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Old 09-21-2006, 08:01 PM   #14
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Just a quick note...I absolutely love my TR-1. I have had it for less than on year and am very happy with it.

I have a couple of questions:

1)I would like to take my kicker off at times. It it feasible to install quick disconnect fittings on the hydrolic lines or will this cause possible air in the line?

2) I noticed s amall amount of hydrolic fluid leaking from the unit. How do I check to see if the fluid level is correct?

Thanks,

Dan
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Old 09-21-2006, 08:19 PM   #15
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Quote:

1)I would like to take my kicker off at times. It it feasible to install quick disconnect fittings on the hydrolic lines or will this cause possible air in the line?

2) I noticed s amall amount of hydrolic fluid leaking from the unit. How do I check to see if the fluid level is correct?
Dan, you can absolutely use quick disconnects. We offer two different types for through hull and in-line both. They have shut off valves in them to block off the fluid when disconnected.

Your fluid level should be at about halfway up the tank (not the fill tube) or just above.

Rob
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Old 06-26-2011, 09:54 AM   #16
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I just purchaced a new tr-1 gold and I'm pre-planning where everything is going to be hard mounted. I have a 18ft I/O 2005 crestliner. I not sure where to mount the Sensor Ball. In the manual it says to mount low and to the center. Could I mount it close to the floor on the port side? Thanks Robert. I really enjoy reading your posts. You help out a ton of people.
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Old 06-26-2011, 10:51 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by the_admeral View Post
I just purchaced a new tr-1 gold and I'm pre-planning where everything is going to be hard mounted. I have a 18ft I/O 2005 crestliner. I not sure where to mount the Sensor Ball. In the manual it says to mount low and to the center. Could I mount it close to the floor on the port side? Thanks Robert. I really enjoy reading your posts. You help out a ton of people.
Yes, that is fine. It does have to be centered in boat, most of them are off to one side of the boat.
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Old 06-26-2011, 12:10 PM   #18
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Edit: I found the answer to my question.
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Old 09-22-2006, 08:06 AM   #19
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Hello,
First off let me say that I have really enjoyed my TR-1 this past year (purchased at sportsman show 2005). However, the other day I had a problem with the response of the unit. It was very slow to respond, and unable to maintain a proper heading. I check all the connection, nothing around compass ball, fluid level, no kinks in any hoses, etc. I made sure that all the settings were the factory settings.
What could you suggest for my next move?
I really appreciate this thread, very helpful.
Rob
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Old 09-22-2006, 08:55 AM   #20
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Quote:
Hello,
the other day I had a problem with the response of the unit. It was very slow to respond, and unable to maintain a proper heading. I check all the connection, nothing around compass ball, fluid level, no kinks in any hoses, etc. I made sure that all the settings were the factory settings.
What could you suggest for my next move?
Rob
It sounds like you have covered all the bases... It could be a low voltage scenario or it could be a funky bypass problem. Be sure you have a good voltage to the unit (a fully charged 12Vdc battery should be up around 13.5Vdc) and try it. If that is not it then give me a call and we can t/s further (too much to type).

Rob
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Old 08-02-2011, 10:17 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Slow Drag-on View Post
It sounds like you have covered all the bases... It could be a low voltage scenario or it could be a funky bypass problem. Be sure you have a good voltage to the unit (a fully charged 12Vdc battery should be up around 13.5Vdc) and try it. If that is not it then give me a call and we can t/s further (too much to type).

Rob
Rob,
Again this year when my battery did not have good voltage I had a lot of problems. Every thing else work on the boat when I put my perko switch to 1/2 it worked fine. I now fully charge my batteries after each use. I was told my 225 Merc will run better with a full charged battery to keep the computer operating correctly.
Love my unit thanks for all your help,
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Old 08-08-2011, 06:30 PM   #22
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Rob, I need help with my a70d!! I was trying to perform my transducer test beforeounting it permanently, but my instructions say I should see my temp reading, my speed reading, and a generic depth reading. I'm getting depth occasionally but no speed and no temp. Could I possibly have a ba transducer or am I just and idiot?
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Old 08-09-2011, 09:52 AM   #23
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Rob, I need help with my a70d!! I was trying to perform my transducer test beforeounting it permanently, but my instructions say I should see my temp reading, my speed reading, and a generic depth reading. I'm getting depth occasionally but no speed and no temp. Could I possibly have a ba transducer or am I just and idiot?
So you bought an A70D, huh? Out of the water you should get a temp, a sort of depth maybe, and speed if you have a wheel on the ducer and are spinning it at the time. Most times, temp is already on the sonar screen, but only thing I can say is to check if the data boxes are set up to be there or not. If they are, I would suspect a bad ducer, because temp should always work in or out of the water.
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Old 09-22-2006, 10:35 AM   #24
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Any tips for dealing with rattling carrier brackets on Honda BF8 outboards? I just hate all that noise.

Here's a thread I posted in April:

THREAD

Appears that my fix lasted only four months. The rattle's gotten noisy again. I need to work on it tonite before trolling T-Bay the next three days. Thanks
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Old 09-22-2006, 10:56 AM   #25
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Quote:
Any tips for dealing with rattling carrier brackets on Honda BF8 outboards?
Use a high stregth loc-Tite (242) the all thread socket cap scres and cinch it down real tight.

Rob
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Old 09-25-2006, 11:27 AM   #26
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I have twin 150 verados with the smart craft guages. Also i have a 9.9 merc kicker. I would like to have the auto pilot operate either the kicker or the twins. Is that possible and what is the cost for this setup.
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Old 09-26-2006, 07:43 AM   #27
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Quote:
I have twin 150 verados with the smart craft guages. Also i have a 9.9 merc kicker. I would like to have the auto pilot operate either the kicker or the twins. Is that possible and what is the cost for this setup.
Our Verado autopilot can do just that. All you have to do is link the 9.9 to the Verado via a bar setup. Call for Ifish special pricing.

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Old 09-22-2006, 12:34 PM   #28
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I have had continuing problems with the autopilot wandering to the starboard side anytime I have waves or wind that pushes me in that direction. Holds port very well and works great in calm conditions. My guess is that I have some magnetic interference and would appreciate some more detailed guidance on how far the compass ball needs to be located away from ferritic sources.
Currently, the ball is located on the port forward bulkhead of a 21' boat, right in front of the passenger. It's 22" away from an air ride seat. But I suspect my problem is my VHF antenna mount, which is only 4" away. I'll move that this weekend.
After I move that and recalibrate the compass, do I need to save those settings or are they retained? I am not planning on going through the entire calibration sequence on rudder and counter rudder gains if I can help it.
One final question. Since the compass ball has been next to the antenna mount for over a month, has that had a permanent effect or will moving the source work?
Thanks
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Old 09-22-2006, 01:24 PM   #29
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Quote:
I have had continuing problems with the autopilot wandering to the starboard side anytime I have waves or wind that pushes me in that direction. Holds port very well and works great in calm conditions. My guess is that I have some magnetic interference and would appreciate some more detailed guidance on how far the compass ball needs to be located away from ferritic sources.
Currently, the ball is located on the port forward bulkhead of a 21' boat, right in front of the passenger. It's 22" away from an air ride seat. But I suspect my problem is my VHF antenna mount, which is only 4" away. I'll move that this weekend.
After I move that and recalibrate the compass, do I need to save those settings or are they retained? I am not planning on going through the entire calibration sequence on rudder and counter rudder gains if I can help it.
One final question. Since the compass ball has been next to the antenna mount for over a month, has that had a permanent effect or will moving the source work?
Thanks
Hey Chris, I have a question first: Does it just slightly get off course to the right, or does it turn hard right (say, like, 90 degrees off)? Is the same problem you had before I sent you a compass?

The proximity to the VHF antenna is a problem. I do not think that it should cause a lasting effect once it's moved. It does retain the settings, so there is presumably no tuning needed (unless you drastically change the vertical mounting height) but you will need to re-calibrate it to let it get used to it's new home

Rob
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Old 09-22-2006, 01:29 PM   #30
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I've been very happy with my TR-1 Gold. I used GaryK's method of fixing the rattling bracket and so far so good but I expect it might loosen again. I have had zero problems with my system. The only complaint I have is that the Gladiator is too expensive to justify puting on my main. I'd love to have it though.
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Old 09-22-2006, 02:35 PM   #31
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Quote:
I've been very happy with my TR-1 Gold. I used GaryK's method of fixing the rattling bracket and so far so good but I expect it might loosen again. I have had zero problems with my system. The only complaint I have is that the Gladiator is too expensive to justify puting on my main. I'd love to have it though.
Give me a call, I think we can work something out.

Rob
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Old 09-22-2006, 02:31 PM   #32
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Rob,
It will gradually get off course to starboard, faster the bigger the swell/wind/wave, especially when quartering into it. The heading deviation keeps growing with time and needs constant correction. However, it also seems to reach a point where it will turn hard right or just seem to lose its mind and either not react or overreact. Erratic.
Since you sent me the new ball, there was quite an improvement. Before, regardless of conditions, it would wander continuously to starboard and would not work at all unless I sat there and kept holding the left arrow button. Now, it seems to work under moderate/calm conditions but won't handle ocean trolling at all or strong winds.
I also assume that the mass of the metal object is directly proportional to the effect on the compass, correct? I had this installed for me and then later tuned, and the location of the ball was not questioned relative to the seat or VHF antenna, so it took me a while to question this.
Thanks again for the help.
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Old 09-22-2006, 02:31 PM   #33
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Quote:
Hey Chris, I have a question first: Does it just slightly get off course to the right, or does it turn hard right
Like to see your thoughts on slight wandering to starboard.

I have the same issue. About every minute or so you have to give it a few clicks to port to correct the drift to starboard.
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Old 09-22-2006, 02:40 PM   #34
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Quote:

I have the same issue. About every minute or so you have to give it a few clicks to port to correct the drift to starboard.
Now Gary, I know yours can't a mountng location problem unless you moved the compass or added something since I installed the pilot.

It could be a fluxgate problem or some other component failure in the compass (even something so small as one resistor). Unless you can't deal with it send it to me after you get done fishing for a while. I'll have it checked out and/or upgraded if necessary.

Chris, on the other hand, I have to believe is a location problem, especially since I sent him a new compass not long ago (not even same version) and the symptoms remain.

Rob
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Old 09-22-2006, 03:52 PM   #35
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I love my TR1. I have had it on since this spring with no issues at all. If you can afford it do yourself the favor and get it. Great product and great customer service will keep this company around for many years to come.

I also thank TR1 for giving a special to ifishers.
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Old 09-22-2006, 09:25 PM   #36
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

ok, I thought of a question. Since the tension bolt on the kicker has to be loose I have to bungee the motor to one side or the other when it's in the stored position other wise it can bounce. Anyone else find this necessary?
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Old 09-23-2006, 02:18 PM   #37
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Quote:
ok, I thought of a question. Since the tension bolt on the kicker has to be loose I have to bungee the motor to one side or the other when it's in the stored position other wise it can bounce. Anyone else find this necessary?
It depends on the type of motor. Some you have to do just that. Others have a tensioner on the shaft, which you can loosen and usually still use the lock bar.

Rob
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Old 09-24-2006, 04:56 PM   #38
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I have been considering an autopilot for the Cobia. Although the TR-1 Gladiator features are exactly what I would want in an autopilot, I must admit that I am hesitant. The pattern I've seen from TR-1 is that if a manufacturer's defect is discovered, it's up to the customer to pay for the upgrades to mitigate the problem. Case in point: fourteen's leaky fittings. If this was a known defect - to the point that the design was changed by the manufacturer, I can't understand why the customer should pay for the fix. OK, I guess if it's outside of the 1 year warranty, but as stated earlier, how much is a unit really used in a year? And then what happens if within that year, or shortly thereafter, another design change is made and the original parts are no longer avaiable? Then it's another boat buck to upgrade the system to accomodate the new and improved components.

Again, the features touted about the TR-1 are highly desirable, but I have to admit that I'm nervous dropping that kind of coin when the units seem to be constantly under development.

Now a question - just out of curiosity, how much is a replacement wireless remote?

Just my

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Old 09-25-2006, 10:36 AM   #39
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I'll get back to this as soon as I can. So far it appears my Monday is going to be just that, a Monday in the traditional sense of the word.
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Old 09-25-2006, 06:30 PM   #40
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I have an installation question. For mounting the gyro ball, is it true that you want the ball as low to the waterline as you can get it? I have four places I can easily mount it: under the gunwale in front of the windshield; in a floor locker in front of the windshield; under the passenger cockpit on a shelf; or under deck in an unused battery box.

All four locations should be pretty free of magnetic interference. The under deck location is fairly shallow though, and the antenna wire would hang down touching the floor of the compartment.
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Old 09-26-2006, 08:28 AM   #41
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Quote:
I have been considering an autopilot for the Cobia. Although the TR-1 Gladiator features are exactly what I would want in an autopilot, I must admit that I am hesitant. The pattern I've seen from TR-1 is that if a manufacturer's defect is discovered, it's up to the customer to pay for the upgrades to mitigate the problem. Case in point: fourteen's leaky fittings. If this was a known defect - to the point that the design was changed by the manufacturer, I can't understand why the customer should pay for the fix. OK, I guess if it's outside of the 1 year warranty, but as stated earlier, how much is a unit really used in a year? And then what happens if within that year, or shortly thereafter, another design change is made and the original parts are no longer avaiable? Then it's another boat buck to upgrade the system to accomodate the new and improved components.

Again, the features touted about the TR-1 are highly desirable, but I have to admit that I'm nervous dropping that kind of coin when the units seem to be constantly under development.

Now a question - just out of curiosity, how much is a replacement wireless remote?

Just my

CrF
CrF,

The upgrade that you refer to (hoses/fittings) is a change that was made four (4) years ago. We sent out a lot of kits free back then. There has not been any other significant change besides the cylinder going all metal. That also was over four (4) years ago, and we warranteed a lot of cylinders outside of the customer warranty. This a pattern of taking care of customers with the problems at the time. If we were notified that a customer had problems, then it was taken care of, and for a quite a while after we sold the kits at cost to customers who were out of warranty. But sooner or later you have to draw the line. This is better service than you would receive on your $40K truck, especially if you were not still in warranty.

The only design change that was made that has had any impact on whether parts were available or not was the trasition from the TR-1/2000 to the Gold model autopilot. And as of now, six (6) full years later we still have parts available. It is true to say that I do not always have a part available, but we have a trade in program and I have typically managed to keep everyone up and running. This is far better service than you get out your computer at home even only a year or two later.

We did have a kid in here for about a year that said things that were not true (about ability to fix things) just to try to sell another pilot. We found that he did not fit in with our company values and commitments. That used car salesman is no longer with our company.

I have to admit that I do not agree with your POV. This company strives for excellence in customer support and satisfaction. We have a 24/7 tech line (that has pulled me out of bed at very wee hours more than a few times). As I stated before we covered updates on out of warranty pilots, and I oftentimes have to explain to the powers that be why I covered a repair that was out of warranty (because it was the right thing to do in that situation).

As one can see by the other thread in the main forum, not everyone always ends up happy. Some people you can never make happy no matter how hard you try. But I promise you that we make every effort to see every situation through to a mutaully beneficial end result.

I hope that I have helped you gain understanding of our morals and practices. If you would like to talk with me more about this please feel free to call me anytime.

And by the way, if you decide to throw your wirelss overboard it would cost you $85 to replace one of the controllers, but don't worry, we gave you two to start

Rob
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Old 09-26-2006, 11:16 AM   #42
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

My TR-1 gold is on a 17ft Customweld. In choppy conditions, the outboard almost continually swivels back and fourth, keeping the boat heading on course. Is it normal and OK for the outboard to continually swing during moderately choppy weather?
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Old 09-27-2006, 12:55 PM   #43
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Default Re: TR-1 Installation Tips

Here is the first installment of the TR-1 Installation and Usage Tips/Techniques!

INSTALL:
Using a thread locker on all bolts/screws used during installation will help assure that things never accidentally come apart due to vibration (such as a Loc-Tite medium strength (222) or high strength (242), or equivalent)

When choosing a location for the deckmount switch do not place it in a vertical position with the switch exposed to the elements. This is what we call a “bird feeder” that will collect water. This will also cause the assembly to retain any dirt particles or salt, which will cause the switch to stick and eventually fail. Mount it horizontal and/or in a fairly dry location if possible (I know, I know ).

Don’t worry about whether or not the hoses are installed to steer in the correct direction; you can reverse them electronically, if necessary, after the installation is complete.

The only recommended alternative for the BioSoy Hydraulic Fluid is Dextron III ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid). For use as an emergency substitute, it is not preferable to use 100% ATF in the hydraulic system. We use the BioSoy because it's environmental friendly.

A non-conductive grease applied to the throttle circuit board will extend its life expectancy (such as Dow Corning 4 Electrical Insulating Compound, or equivalent).

How to enter setup codes:
This is actually much easier than it sounds... All you do is press setup and let it go, then click the button that has the number you want lit on it until the light is light. I.E. to enter code 1 you would just: click setup once, click the 1,2,3 button once. You will see the number 1 light come on, the code is entered! Now you can adjust it with the up or down arrow buttons. See your table of setup codes for descriptions and settings ranges.

VERY basic tuning:
The factory defaults (code 2 = 22 / code 3 = 37) for will run most any jetboat style hull under 23’ or open sled under 26’ and most fiberglass boats under 20’. If you fish in faster water you may want to “run it hot” at 24/34.
With most fiberglass boats over 20’ you will want to start at 30/30. Go up on code 2 until the boat tracks straight, then go down on code 3 the same number of clicks.
If the pilot runs great in calm water, but is hyper-reactive in any type of rougher water or when a boat wake goes by, use the SEA STATE FILTER. Enter code 1 and click the down arrow until it lights up to dampen the reaction to the rocking of the boat.

That's all for now, be on the lookout for the next installment

Rob
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Old 09-30-2006, 07:23 AM   #44
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I bought a used older unit. It was for a Honda and I want to put it on a '04 Merc 9.9 BF. I guess I need a speed control and the bracket for the cylinder. I hope the parts are available!
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Old 09-30-2006, 07:25 AM   #45
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Quote:
I bought a used older unit. It was for a Honda and I want to put it on a '04 Merc 9.9 BF. I guess I need a speed control and the bracket for the cylinder. I hope the parts are available!
Does older unit mean older than a Gold model, or an old Gold model?
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Old 09-30-2006, 08:01 AM   #46
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

It has a separate power and hyd. unit with a separate switch unit for forward and reverse. Not sure on model. I would like to do the physical install and then pay you to configure it for me. If the parts are readily available maybe we can co-ordinate w/ fourteen on his work?
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Old 09-30-2006, 08:12 AM   #47
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Quote:
It has a separate power and hyd. unit with a separate switch unit for forward and reverse. Not sure on model. I would like to do the physical install and then pay you to configure it for me. If the parts are readily available maybe we can co-ordinate w/ fourteen on his work?
That means it is previous generation to the Gold model. We can definitely get you what you need for the steering. I might have a throttle for that Merc (not many of those). I guess you know I had to cancel my trip to Portland. It will be at least a couple weeks before I get back up there (I already have to work instead of fish!). Give me a call and we can send you out the parts you need so you do not have to wait for me and then I would be happy to meet up with you the next time I go up, or you come down.

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Old 09-30-2006, 08:44 AM   #48
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Thanks Rob, you are awesome!
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Old 04-28-2007, 11:03 PM   #49
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I am still thinking about getting a tr 1 and have another question. You say I need to stay 2 feet away from Phosphorous metals. Does this include small screws? I have diamond plate aluminum on my floor that was installed with stainless screws. I do not see a way to stay 2 feet away from them.
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Old 04-29-2007, 11:28 AM   #50
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Quote:
Originally Posted by warnerww View Post
I am still thinking about getting a tr 1 and have another question. You say I need to stay 2 feet away from Phosphorous metals. Does this include small screws? I have diamond plate aluminum on my floor that was installed with stainless screws. I do not see a way to stay 2 feet away from them.
Small, unchanging, ferrous disturbances, such as screws (like the 3 stainless screws used to mount the bracket), will not cause a problem. The autopilot will calibrate for those small variations during the compass cal. Where you will experience problems would be with bigger disturbances, or one that is not constant (say a big stainless wrench that was there when you calibrated, then gets taken away, or vice versa).

Rob
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Old 04-29-2007, 07:52 PM   #51
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow Drag-on View Post
Small, unchanging, ferrous disturbances, such as screws (like the 3 stainless screws used to mount the bracket), will not cause a problem. The autopilot will calibrate for those small variations during the compass cal. Where you will experience problems would be with bigger disturbances, or one that is not constant (say a big stainless wrench that was there when you calibrated, then gets taken away, or vice versa).

Rob
Thanks I am starting to get excited. Fish by myself and actually be able to fish not drive the boat.
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Old 07-21-2007, 10:34 AM   #52
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I have an older TR-1. I need to put fluid in it. It says "waring use only TR-1 autopilot hydraulic fluid (dow corning 200-50cs." The stores I shop at don't carry it. Where would I find this type of fluid or is there something else I can use?
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Old 07-24-2007, 02:01 PM   #53
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Porter, since you haven't gotten a reply....it might be easier just to purchase a bottle from TR1 - the shipping is probably cheaper than the gasoline you'll use driving around trying to find bio-soy hydraulic fluid.
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Old 07-25-2007, 08:53 AM   #54
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I am very sorry guys. I have been out traveling for two weeks and did not receive any emails that I had private messages or that this thread had new postings.

FYI - the new email address is robert.voss@garmin.com and the best contact for Gold product support is Eric Hunter at the 800 number or eric.hunter@garmin.com.
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Old 07-25-2007, 09:06 AM   #55
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Quote:
Originally Posted by porter View Post
I have an older TR-1. I need to put fluid in it. It says "waring use only TR-1 autopilot hydraulic fluid (dow corning 200-50cs." The stores I shop at don't carry it. Where would I find this type of fluid or is there something else I can use?
There is absolutely no subsititue for silicone fluid, and it is not recommended to mix it with anything due to the anti-corrosive additives in the fluid. The best thing to do would be to call a dealer and mail order it. Please call us if you need assistance in locating the best option to get you up fastest.

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Old 07-25-2007, 09:38 PM   #56
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I have the TR-1 Gold on my boat, and according to the dealer, the TR-1 was wired to my Raymarine C-80? After reading the manual, it states that the TR-1 may not work with all GPS systems. Is this true with the C80?

If I am using the GPS to track, can I use the zig-zag funtion while I am trolling to the GPS waypoint?

If I am using the GPS to troll to the waypoint, if I set the function code for 9, will it start the search function when I reach the waypoint?

Thank you. I just haven't had the opportunity to take my boat out to try it out since it's been rather windy lately, and I still need to calibrate true north, calibrate the compass, and all of the set-up stuff. I'm just getting prepared for what I am too expect when I do get out on the boat and actually try out the TR-1.
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Old 07-26-2007, 08:06 AM   #57
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Quote:
Originally Posted by Noa View Post
I have the TR-1 Gold on my boat, and according to the dealer, the TR-1 was wired to my Raymarine C-80? After reading the manual, it states that the TR-1 may not work with all GPS systems. Is this true with the C80?

If I am using the GPS to track, can I use the zig-zag funtion while I am trolling to the GPS waypoint?

If I am using the GPS to troll to the waypoint, if I set the function code for 9, will it start the search function when I reach the waypoint?

Thank you. I just haven't had the opportunity to take my boat out to try it out since it's been rather windy lately, and I still need to calibrate true north, calibrate the compass, and all of the set-up stuff. I'm just getting prepared for what I am too expect when I do get out on the boat and actually try out the TR-1.
The pilot will track to a waypoint with a C80 interfaced. It will not track a route since the C80 unit stops trasmitting data during recalculation to next waypoint in a route, and the pilot will drop out of GPS mode upon the loss of signal.

No, you cannot use zig-zag while in GPS mode. Just point the boat on the heading you want to troll and use zig-zag instead of gps.

The setting of the button to function 9 does not automatically engage the pattern upon reaching the waypoint. You must be in GPS mode, tracking to the waypoint, and then click the button to begin the pattern. With a C80 you must stay a little off the waypoint, if it thinks it has arrived at the waypoint it will stop transmitting data and the pilot will drop out of GPS mode.

If you need assistance with the setup just call the 800-588-7655 number and ask for Gold tech support.

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Old 07-31-2007, 01:47 PM   #58
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Two part problem!
I am new to this forum and hopefully you can help me out.

I have an older TR-1 2000 on a Yamaha 9.9 four stroke and this weekend it would not hold a straight course. It would contunually stray starboard and I would have to constantly push the left button on the wired remote pendant to keep it straight. (A real pain when fighting a fish!)
Does this mean the hydraulic system needs to be bled?
I noticed leaking fluid where the polished shaft comes out of the cylinder. The screws in the bleed holes on the cylinder appear to be ok without any leaks. If this is my problem, can the cylinder seals be repaired? Can the cylinder be replaced?

Thanks in advance for any help! Peak salmon fishing is almost here on Lake Michigan and I would love to get this fixed!
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Old 08-21-2007, 06:59 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slow Drag-on View Post
By popular request, and due to the great relationship with Ifish over the years, we will now be offering a post for TR-1 Autopilot users or potential customers a place to talk about TR-1 Autopilots. Feel free to ask any questions you might have. I will attempt to answer any pre-purchase, installation, usage/technique, technical support or any other questions you may have. I will monitor the thread M-F 8-5 PT, as much as possible as long as I am in the office, and evenings and weekends when I get time or if there's hot topics. If I do plan to be out and will not be able to respond I will post that as well. If you have an immediate concern please don't hesitate to call 800-588-7655 (TR-1 Factory Support) to have your questions answered. Also, we will be offering an Ifish discount through October, call me for details.

Robert Voss
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email: rob@nautamatic.com
Cell phone: 541-914-4964

Do you know what your customer satisfaction % is? I am considiring getting a Gladiator system Autopilot on my future boat and comparing to a Robertson/ Simrad system for main propulsion. I hear that the units are the best but.. honestly after reading all of the posts and the issues people have, I am a little confounded! Can you help?
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Old 08-21-2007, 09:22 PM   #60
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Default Re: TR-1 Autopilots

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Originally Posted by eholthouse View Post
Do you know what your customer satisfaction % is? I am considiring getting a Gladiator system Autopilot on my future boat and comparing to a Robertson/ Simrad system for main propulsion. I hear that the units are the best but.. honestly after reading all of the posts and the issues people have, I am a little confounded! Can you help?
Id on't know that we have ever tracked or been rated along these lines. To get a good sense just go into the main forum and post a question in regards to this, you will get plenty of responses. You could also go to www.thehulltruth.com and do the same thing, which is a great Gladiator site.

Rob
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