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Ask me! Electronics, autopilots, and hydraulics expert help

537K views 2K replies 332 participants last post by  hot wire 
#1 ·
By popular request, and due to the great relationship with Ifish over the years, we will now be offering a post for TR-1 Autopilot users or potential customers a place to talk about TR-1 Autopilots. :applause: Feel free to ask any questions you might have. I will attempt to answer any pre-purchase, installation, usage/technique, technical support or any other questions you may have. I will monitor the thread M-F 8-5 PT, as much as possible as long as I am in the office, and evenings and weekends when I get time or if there's hot topics. :cheers: If I do plan to be out and will not be able to respond I will post that as well. If you have an immediate concern please don't hesitate to call 800-588-7655 (TR-1 Factory Support) to have your questions answered. Also, we will be offering an Ifish discount through October, call me for details.

Robert Voss
Director of Product Support
email: rob@nautamatic.com
Cell phone: 541-914-4964
 
#27 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

Hey Chris, I have a question first: Does it just slightly get off course to the right, or does it turn hard right
Like to see your thoughts on slight wandering to starboard.

I have the same issue. About every minute or so you have to give it a few clicks to port to correct the drift to starboard.
 
#28 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I've been very happy with my TR-1 Gold. I used GaryK's method of fixing the rattling bracket and so far so good but I expect it might loosen again. I have had zero problems with my system. The only complaint I have is that the Gladiator is too expensive to justify puting on my main. I'd love to have it though.
Give me a call, I think we can work something out.

Rob
 
#29 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I have the same issue. About every minute or so you have to give it a few clicks to port to correct the drift to starboard.
Now Gary, I know yours can't a mountng location problem unless you moved the compass or added something since I installed the pilot.

It could be a fluxgate problem or some other component failure in the compass (even something so small as one resistor). Unless you can't deal with it send it to me after you get done fishing for a while. I'll have it checked out and/or upgraded if necessary.

Chris, on the other hand, I have to believe is a location problem, especially since I sent him a new compass not long ago (not even same version) and the symptoms remain.

Rob
 
#30 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I love my TR1. I have had it on since this spring with no issues at all. If you can afford it do yourself the favor and get it. Great product and great customer service will keep this company around for many years to come.

I also thank TR1 for giving a special to ifishers. :cheers:
 
#34 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

ok, I thought of a question. Since the tension bolt on the kicker has to be loose I have to bungee the motor to one side or the other when it's in the stored position other wise it can bounce. Anyone else find this necessary?
It depends on the type of motor. Some you have to do just that. Others have a tensioner on the shaft, which you can loosen and usually still use the lock bar.

Rob
 
#35 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I have been considering an autopilot for the Cobia. Although the TR-1 Gladiator features are exactly what I would want in an autopilot, I must admit that I am hesitant. The pattern I've seen from TR-1 is that if a manufacturer's defect is discovered, it's up to the customer to pay for the upgrades to mitigate the problem. Case in point: fourteen's leaky fittings. If this was a known defect - to the point that the design was changed by the manufacturer, I can't understand why the customer should pay for the fix. OK, I guess if it's outside of the 1 year warranty, but as stated earlier, how much is a unit really used in a year? And then what happens if within that year, or shortly thereafter, another design change is made and the original parts are no longer avaiable? Then it's another boat buck to upgrade the system to accomodate the new and improved components. :shrug:

Again, the features touted about the TR-1 are highly desirable, but I have to admit that I'm nervous dropping that kind of coin when the units seem to be constantly under development.

Now a question - just out of curiosity, how much is a replacement wireless remote?

Just my :twocents:

CrF
 
#38 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I have an installation question. For mounting the gyro ball, is it true that you want the ball as low to the waterline as you can get it? I have four places I can easily mount it: under the gunwale in front of the windshield; in a floor locker in front of the windshield; under the passenger cockpit on a shelf; or under deck in an unused battery box.

All four locations should be pretty free of magnetic interference. The under deck location is fairly shallow though, and the antenna wire would hang down touching the floor of the compartment.
 
#39 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I have twin 150 verados with the smart craft guages. Also i have a 9.9 merc kicker. I would like to have the auto pilot operate either the kicker or the twins. Is that possible and what is the cost for this setup.
Our Verado autopilot can do just that. All you have to do is link the 9.9 to the Verado via a bar setup. Call for Ifish special pricing.

Rob
 
#40 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I have an installation question. For mounting the gyro ball, is it true that you want the ball as low to the waterline as you can get it? I have four places I can easily mount it: under the gunwale in front of the windshield; in a floor locker in front of the windshield; under the passenger cockpit on a shelf; or under deck in an unused battery box.

All four locations should be pretty free of magnetic interference. The under deck location is fairly shallow though, and the antenna wire would hang down touching the floor of the compartment.
It is true to say that the lower you get the ball the less reactive it will be to a rocking boat, but you can tune that out anyway, so it is not a requirement. It is, however, a requirement to be ABOVE the waterline. The "antenna" wire is actually the GPS connection wires, so there is no interference problems with touching anything. If you go up in front of the windshield be sure to look out for windshield wiper motors, speakers, fire extinguishers, a heater unit and anchor chain. Stay about 2 feet or more away from all those things.

Rob
 
#41 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I have been considering an autopilot for the Cobia. Although the TR-1 Gladiator features are exactly what I would want in an autopilot, I must admit that I am hesitant. The pattern I've seen from TR-1 is that if a manufacturer's defect is discovered, it's up to the customer to pay for the upgrades to mitigate the problem. Case in point: fourteen's leaky fittings. If this was a known defect - to the point that the design was changed by the manufacturer, I can't understand why the customer should pay for the fix. OK, I guess if it's outside of the 1 year warranty, but as stated earlier, how much is a unit really used in a year? And then what happens if within that year, or shortly thereafter, another design change is made and the original parts are no longer avaiable? Then it's another boat buck to upgrade the system to accomodate the new and improved components. :shrug:

Again, the features touted about the TR-1 are highly desirable, but I have to admit that I'm nervous dropping that kind of coin when the units seem to be constantly under development.

Now a question - just out of curiosity, how much is a replacement wireless remote?

Just my :twocents:

CrF
CrF,

The upgrade that you refer to (hoses/fittings) is a change that was made four (4) years ago. We sent out a lot of kits free back then. There has not been any other significant change besides the cylinder going all metal. That also was over four (4) years ago, and we warranteed a lot of cylinders outside of the customer warranty. This a pattern of taking care of customers with the problems at the time. If we were notified that a customer had problems, then it was taken care of, and for a quite a while after we sold the kits at cost to customers who were out of warranty. But sooner or later you have to draw the line. This is better service than you would receive on your $40K truck, especially if you were not still in warranty.

The only design change that was made that has had any impact on whether parts were available or not was the trasition from the TR-1/2000 to the Gold model autopilot. And as of now, six (6) full years later we still have parts available. It is true to say that I do not always have a part available, but we have a trade in program and I have typically managed to keep everyone up and running. This is far better service than you get out your computer at home even only a year or two later.

We did have a kid in here for about a year that said things that were not true (about ability to fix things) just to try to sell another pilot. We found that he did not fit in with our company values and commitments. That used car salesman is no longer with our company.

I have to admit that I do not agree with your POV. This company strives for excellence in customer support and satisfaction. We have a 24/7 tech line (that has pulled me out of bed at very wee hours more than a few times). As I stated before we covered updates on out of warranty pilots, and I oftentimes have to explain to the powers that be why I covered a repair that was out of warranty (because it was the right thing to do in that situation).

As one can see by the other thread in the main forum, not everyone always ends up happy. Some people you can never make happy no matter how hard you try. But I promise you that we make every effort to see every situation through to a mutaully beneficial end result.

I hope that I have helped you gain understanding of our morals and practices. If you would like to talk with me more about this please feel free to call me anytime.

And by the way, if you decide to throw your wirelss overboard :wave: it would cost you $85 to replace one of the controllers, but don't worry, we gave you two to start :wink:

Rob
800-588-7655 office
541-914-4964 cell
 
#43 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

My TR-1 gold is on a 17ft Customweld. In choppy conditions, the outboard almost continually swivels back and fourth, keeping the boat heading on course. Is it normal and OK for the outboard to continually swing during moderately choppy weather?
Actually, yes, the outboard should move fairly often. The motor swinging back and forth in choppy water is the reaction of the pilot to the rocking of the boat (see above post on compass mounting). All you have to do is go to Code 1 (the Sea State Filter) and turn down the sensitivity.

Here's the steps:
click the setup button and let it go
click the 1,2,3 button once (#1 should light up)
click the down arrow until it lights up
click the setup button again and let it go

This will dampen the reaction for the rest of the time the pilot is turned on.

Rob
 
#44 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I really like my Tr-1 for all trolling applications.

I would like to run it in reverse while on anchor with limited current before the swing and the flow begins. How do I run it in reverse and keep everything straight?

Jet~~~
 
#45 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I really like my Tr-1 for all trolling applications.

I would like to run it in reverse while on anchor with limited current before the swing and the flow begins. How do I run it in reverse and keep everything straight?

Jet~~~
I do this often and it works great.

From the manual:

<font color="blue">
Reverse: The Autopilot will attempt to perform any of it’s steering functions when the boat is backing in reverse gear.

To engage the system in reverse;
1) Start from Standby
2) Press and hold the GPS (Rev) button
3) Press and release the Auto/STBY
4) Release the GPS (Rev) button. The reverse LED will stay lit until you go to Standby mode.
</font>
 
#194 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I do this often and it works great.

From the manual:

<font color="blue">
Reverse: The Autopilot will attempt to perform any of it’s steering functions when the boat is backing in reverse gear.

To engage the system in reverse;
1) Start from Standby
2) Press and hold the GPS (Rev) button
3) Press and release the Auto/STBY
4) Release the GPS (Rev) button. The reverse LED will stay lit until you go to Standby mode.
</font>
When you perform these 4 steps do you need to set a way point or do something else. When I go sturgeon fishing this would be great.
I have the same question when drifting in fast currents. I would love to be in reverse to slow my drift down. Just not sure what I need to do. Do I face my boat down river then just put the thing in reverse?
 
#46 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

That'd be another great addition to laminated 'cheat sheet' cards.

Or, just put up the tips on the Nautimatic site as formatted .pdfs (index card size w/ BIG print) and let the users download & do the laminating.
 
#48 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

I really like my Tr-1 for all trolling applications.

I would like to run it in reverse while on anchor with limited current before the swing and the flow begins. How do I run it in reverse and keep everything straight?

Jet~~~
Assuming this is a Gold pilot all you have to do is:

from standby mode
press and hold the GPS track button (also REV)
continue to hold GPS while putting into auto mode

you will see the AUTO and REV LEDs come on. In reverse mode turn around and face your stern and the arrow keys will swing the stern the direction you press.

Remember: do not put the pilot in reverse with the motor in a forward gear or vice versa, it will put the boat into a circle.

Rob
 
#49 ·
Re: TR-1 Autopilots

put up the tips on the Nautimatic site as formatted .pdfs (index card size w/ BIG print) and let the users download & do the laminating.
Gary, that is a great idea :clap: I cannot believe they are not there, but I have asked Debbie to post them so you can do just that.

Rob
 
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