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Barviewrocks
10-25-2005, 07:45 AM
For those out there with older 2 stroke Merc trolling motors, what have you found to be the most successful way to cold start it? My 15 hp runs very well when warm. Getting to warm is not perfect.

Here is what I am doing:

After the last use where I disconnect the fuel line from the motor and let the motor run till out of fuel, I store the motor upright.

When starting cold, I open the fuel tank bleeder screw, connect the fuel line, pump the bulb till hard, ensure the choke knob is turned clock wise to the stop (fast idle),pull out the choke knob and push in 5 times and leave it in the out position, squeeze the bulb again and pull the starter cord. The engine at this point usually starts up and idles well on the second pull. After about 30 seconds, the idle gets slower and I push the choke knob in. This is when the engine dies. To start it again, I have tried a few things without consistent success. But it usually starts again if I keep the choke knob in and pull the starter about 20 times.

So my question to the "Doc" or others out there is am I doing something wrong? What has worked for you with this motor. Or, is this a trait of this motor?

Barview rocker

FastActionRodTip
10-25-2005, 08:01 AM
don't run the motor out of fuel, also, I believe you can get a thermostat for that motor which will help..don't think you should be pushing the choke in and out five times either...after it starts, try pushing the choke in halfway instead of all the way for another 10-15 seconds

WaterDog
10-25-2005, 08:19 AM
Depending on the year, You DO pull and push the choke in and out. This shoots a small amount of fuel into the carb. Again depending on the model year.

A thermostat will help if you dont have one and I have never run a 2 stroke out of fuel either. :shrug:

Maybe let it warm up more than 30 secs. I know my 8hp merc would do something similar if it had not been run awhile so I'd leave the choke out until it started to sputter. Then it would be fine.

FastActionRodTip
10-25-2005, 09:08 AM
I had a 97 and never pushed/pulled the choke and it always started cold nicely...I added a thermostat though

Barviewrocks
10-25-2005, 10:24 AM
Thanks for the comments, the model year is a 1989 with probably less than 200 hours. I thought one wanted to run the fuel out after use so it would not gum up the carbs. Is this wrong?

After it starts the second time, it usually warms up properly in a few minutes then I take off and it runs perfect after that.

I will try the half way trick. Does this close a butterfly-like valve like a standard choke? Or does this merely inject fuel into the carb?

FastActionRodTip
10-25-2005, 11:50 AM
that's an older model than I have experience with....there are mixed responses to running the fuel out after each use...I was always under the impression that during the normal use season to not do this, but to do it for winterizing during the fogging process...Boat Doc would be the guy to know

EULACHON
10-25-2005, 12:12 PM
Sometimes mine is a tuff start also but once it starts it is fine.

Do you have the adjustable idle on the choke/primer??

If you do I prime mine pull knob in and out 2 or 3 times then leave out when it starts push in 1/2 way

My dad used to run the 2 stroke dry also but I never do no problems yet...

FishinMission
10-25-2005, 03:17 PM
I had a '91 on my old boat. Still running well with the latest owner, too.

Pump bulb up, pull choke out all the way(set at fastidle setting) and pull. First pull usually was enough. You may wanna check your plug gap.

Mark

Barviewrocks
10-26-2005, 08:37 PM
Thank you all for your input and comments. I will try to address in particular the spark plug gap and use of the choke half way in when it is getting warm. I will also find a repair manual to understand exactly what the choke knob is doing as compared with conventional manual chokes.

Safe boating to all.

Rocker

KingFisher85
10-26-2005, 10:07 PM
Right out of the Mercury outboards repair/owners manual from 65-89 2-40hp motors. I used to run her dry..not anymore.
"If the engine is operated with the fuel supply shut off until it stops the fuel and oil mixture inside the engine is removed, leaving bearings, pistons, rings and other parts with little protective lubricant, during long periods of storage.
Proper procedure involves: Shutting off the fuel supply at the tank, disconnecting the fuel line at the tank; operating the engine until it begins to run ROUGH; then stopping the engine, which will leave some fuel/oil mixture inside"

Boat Doc'
11-01-2005, 06:59 AM
It sounds as if the idle speed may not be increasing enough when you turn the knob. Try tightening the adjustment screw on the plastic lever to take the slack out of the metal rod that goes under the flywheel. When properly set up the idle speed should increase about 1000 rpm.

Barviewrocks
11-01-2005, 12:34 PM
Thank you "Boat Doc". And welcome back from your holiday. I will check it out. When warm, the motor idles very well. Would this still be true if the adjustment was off?

Boat Doc'
11-01-2005, 03:11 PM
yes, its against the idle stop but the trigger plate may not be moving when you turn the knob for fast idle for cold start