Fish Mode
06-27-2005, 12:03 AM
Well, I would like to show all of you guys how I have found to be successful in catching them buggers on the bank since I find it really sad and quite unforgiving when post after post with someone that asks for help catching shad and a lot of the responses would be 'try the search function' I have and there's a lot of stuff to shuffle around until you actually find some quality info. I'm not of a fisherman as a whole - and to be truthful I've never caught a salmon before :shrug: - but I am a great shad fisherman! :rolleyes: I have a couple of rules I go by when banking it for these buggers, so here goes...:
1 - try to keep the rig on the very bottom and bouncing off of the millions of rocks under the bottom of the river (hmmm, hopes that makes sense). However, you want the rig OFF of the rocks and into the faces of them shad, since you don't want rock-fish you have to find the right lead weight to be just right. There are many ways to adjust this; for example, you have enough weight to not reach the bottom but you can always cast much farther upriver and thus have more time for the rig to reach the sweet zone. OR, right after casting there will be slack line, most often you reel that line to have it tense and you could sense the strike but since you want the rig to reach bottom quicker allow for line to come off and just experiment until you've found the right amount of line needed to come off for the rig to reach the right depth - BUT each time you angler for these fishes, the river level, speed and location will always be different and so you have to experiment every time you go fish. Hint: The weight as I see it should be as close to the swivel it's connected to rather than not since I've seen a pattern in the strikes with this :shrug: BUT, you should always experiment with this and see how it goes for you.
2 - The leader between the swivel and the lure should be about 4 feet; too less and the shad would be closer to the weight and I've found that they are a little weight-frightened? too much and you would be more prone to flossing the shad. Hint: I have heard that shad are leader-shy not sure about this but have caught more fish on one type of brand than another.
3 - you should know the difference when you are fishing on the bottom between bouncing, snagging on someone's rig who in the past had a snag and broke off, and a bite.
First of all I would like to say that I hate getting snagged on someone else's rig which is in the bottom of river and continuing to sang others now why should I pay for someone else's mistake? That's why I've created a technique when it comes to getting out of those tight situations. I'll explain this in a little bit...
:alert:Ok, now to the detail portion of this post I have drawn a little pic of what I usually rig up for shad while banking it
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/medium/111.jpg
:alert:Now the swivel is very important since it often it least spoken of and least taken into account. This is the backbone to your rig which will often take countless amounts of fish and will have to function correctly for you to catch and land these guys successfully. Here's what I use, double use for both shad and salmon...
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/medium/112.jpg
:alert:Now, the weight that I normally use are 1/2, 3/4, or 1 ounce; all determined by the river speed. fast and I would use the 1 ounce, high water and 3/4 would do the trick, slow and low levels and I would use the 1/2, which I often use during the low-level summer months. Although, when there aren't a lot of boats adjacent to where I fish, I could use up to 2 1/2 ounces to get a challenge and to launch that baby as far as I can... :grin:.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/medium/113.jpg
^Note that the banana weight on the right I've snagged on someone's rig on the bottom and with my technique mentioned above I got back my rig along with this weight.
:alert:Now, the leader line should be around 4 feet for your rig to be productive as I have seen it, but of course experimentation could always help...Also with the theory that shad are leader-shy, try those with a lighter color than the darker ones...
:alert:Now, with the bead which I normally use a red or green one would work nicely
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/medium/114.jpg
I then attach a small green/pink grub - although not needed as I have caught lots without them they do add a sense of confidence and a nicer setup - with a small 1/16 or 1/32 ounce jig with a GOLD hook and this is basically the setup. Simple as it gets it can get much more complex. The grub, jig, and bead are all available at the fisherman's across from clackamas park, just ask them for advice whenever you have a problem and they usually have a great answer to reply back.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/medium/115.jpg
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/medium/116.jpg
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/medium/117.jpg
:alert:Now, during the rigging, you ask 'what knot should I use?' Personally I use the palomar knot with everything except the weight which isn't a clean connection and so I use the Surgeon's End Loop for that. But that's just my preferences... :shrug: Great Knot Site... (http://home.cfl.rr.com/floridafishing/knot.htm)
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/medium/118.jpg
^here shown a rig with both red and green bead, usually I don't have both colors or even two as it makes the rig look unfishy and mostly only one is used...
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/medium/119.jpg
^the entire rig, notice the knots, quick and concise so no time is wasted in fishing time as the hot periods are very quick...
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/medium/120.jpg
^another rig, except this one lure is from the same rig I snagged up with that banana weight above... :laugh:
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/96244.jpg
Quick and concise...
OK, that was long... :blush: Now, I'll explain the concept of fishing for these guys.
So, you have the rig and weight to your likings, first of all...cast :shrug: but, you have to know where you want to cast I often cast towards 12 o'clock and see if the rig hits bottom, if not slightly cast at an earier time. When you cast you have to take into account what's going to happen. The rig will tighten and your line will tense, the weight will pull your rig downstream and will fish in an arc, the fish will most likely bite while your rig is between 1 and 2:30 o'clock, after 2:30 and into 3 you should experiment when you should pull the rig in. When you pull the rig in, maybe some shad will catch an eye and bite so be aware. While the rig is swinging, personally I hold on the line with my index finger and make a slight bend on the rod so I'll be aware of any bite or snag when it happens but there are some others who reel in very slowly so the rig won't snag...
Now you ask me 'what's the diff?', well, when you're fishing often the rig might bump bump with very little articulation and no sticcado (for you piano folks), that would be bouncing off of the bottom and quickly reel in a little so you're just off the rocks. Now a slightly quick hold-up would be a snag on the rocks and you should quickly reel line up before you really snag up. A long progresive hold-up is a snag on someone's hung up rig and you could try out my technique which I'll later explain. NOW, a bite from a shad is quickly recognizable as it has a lot of sticcado and will be very quick, usually there will be two bites from the head shake and sometimes there'll be a fast hookup where you are already hooked up on the fish. Another quick action from your rod wouldn't hurt much, but remember quick and concise so you won't pull the hook out of the fish's tender mouth.
Frequently, there will be lots of fisherwo/man who will fish alongside with you and it's a lot like combat fishing, when you fish with these guys, hooking on another fisherman's line is common, the technique to that is to cast over everyone's line at 12 o'clock and be aware of your right and left partners who may cast at the same time and reel in when you reach around 3 o'clock and it's a continous cycle if done correctly. Hint: watch first and then join the group, please allow enough space for each person as hooking another person is not fun :argue: :rolleyes:
Now, whenever you do snag to rocks or a rig on the river bottom there's a technique I've created so I could get out of these tight situations. First of all, avoidance is the best way to not get a snag. But be prepared for lots of snags. Now when you are in a swing and you feel and starting rock snag you should quickly reel in the line to avoid it but sometimes it's too late and the best technique is to [reel in the slack line VERY QUICKLY and at a 1 o'clock position, at the same time pull on the line and reel], usually this works for me. When that doesn't work PLEASE, DON'T TRY and PULL BACK and FORTH the rod so there's a swwoooff sound :hoboy: :hoboy: :hoboy:, this is VERY BAD 1, this sound is amplified in the water by 10 and fish don't like that 2, this is very dangerous I hate it when people do this since the line could snap and go where? right into your face or someone right next to you...just reel in the slack line as far as you can, and walk towards away from the snag with a slight elevation in the rod so there would be a better chance of loosening the line and saving part of it. There is a better chance of safely getting your rig back when it's much farther from shore than closer.
Well, I hope my time has paid off for those who want to catch some fast fish and have a great time :yay:
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/121.jpg
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/122.jpg
^??? :eek:
1 - try to keep the rig on the very bottom and bouncing off of the millions of rocks under the bottom of the river (hmmm, hopes that makes sense). However, you want the rig OFF of the rocks and into the faces of them shad, since you don't want rock-fish you have to find the right lead weight to be just right. There are many ways to adjust this; for example, you have enough weight to not reach the bottom but you can always cast much farther upriver and thus have more time for the rig to reach the sweet zone. OR, right after casting there will be slack line, most often you reel that line to have it tense and you could sense the strike but since you want the rig to reach bottom quicker allow for line to come off and just experiment until you've found the right amount of line needed to come off for the rig to reach the right depth - BUT each time you angler for these fishes, the river level, speed and location will always be different and so you have to experiment every time you go fish. Hint: The weight as I see it should be as close to the swivel it's connected to rather than not since I've seen a pattern in the strikes with this :shrug: BUT, you should always experiment with this and see how it goes for you.
2 - The leader between the swivel and the lure should be about 4 feet; too less and the shad would be closer to the weight and I've found that they are a little weight-frightened? too much and you would be more prone to flossing the shad. Hint: I have heard that shad are leader-shy not sure about this but have caught more fish on one type of brand than another.
3 - you should know the difference when you are fishing on the bottom between bouncing, snagging on someone's rig who in the past had a snag and broke off, and a bite.
First of all I would like to say that I hate getting snagged on someone else's rig which is in the bottom of river and continuing to sang others now why should I pay for someone else's mistake? That's why I've created a technique when it comes to getting out of those tight situations. I'll explain this in a little bit...
:alert:Ok, now to the detail portion of this post I have drawn a little pic of what I usually rig up for shad while banking it
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/medium/111.jpg
:alert:Now the swivel is very important since it often it least spoken of and least taken into account. This is the backbone to your rig which will often take countless amounts of fish and will have to function correctly for you to catch and land these guys successfully. Here's what I use, double use for both shad and salmon...
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/medium/112.jpg
:alert:Now, the weight that I normally use are 1/2, 3/4, or 1 ounce; all determined by the river speed. fast and I would use the 1 ounce, high water and 3/4 would do the trick, slow and low levels and I would use the 1/2, which I often use during the low-level summer months. Although, when there aren't a lot of boats adjacent to where I fish, I could use up to 2 1/2 ounces to get a challenge and to launch that baby as far as I can... :grin:.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/medium/113.jpg
^Note that the banana weight on the right I've snagged on someone's rig on the bottom and with my technique mentioned above I got back my rig along with this weight.
:alert:Now, the leader line should be around 4 feet for your rig to be productive as I have seen it, but of course experimentation could always help...Also with the theory that shad are leader-shy, try those with a lighter color than the darker ones...
:alert:Now, with the bead which I normally use a red or green one would work nicely
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/medium/114.jpg
I then attach a small green/pink grub - although not needed as I have caught lots without them they do add a sense of confidence and a nicer setup - with a small 1/16 or 1/32 ounce jig with a GOLD hook and this is basically the setup. Simple as it gets it can get much more complex. The grub, jig, and bead are all available at the fisherman's across from clackamas park, just ask them for advice whenever you have a problem and they usually have a great answer to reply back.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/medium/115.jpg
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/medium/116.jpg
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/medium/117.jpg
:alert:Now, during the rigging, you ask 'what knot should I use?' Personally I use the palomar knot with everything except the weight which isn't a clean connection and so I use the Surgeon's End Loop for that. But that's just my preferences... :shrug: Great Knot Site... (http://home.cfl.rr.com/floridafishing/knot.htm)
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/medium/118.jpg
^here shown a rig with both red and green bead, usually I don't have both colors or even two as it makes the rig look unfishy and mostly only one is used...
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/medium/119.jpg
^the entire rig, notice the knots, quick and concise so no time is wasted in fishing time as the hot periods are very quick...
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/medium/120.jpg
^another rig, except this one lure is from the same rig I snagged up with that banana weight above... :laugh:
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/96244.jpg
Quick and concise...
OK, that was long... :blush: Now, I'll explain the concept of fishing for these guys.
So, you have the rig and weight to your likings, first of all...cast :shrug: but, you have to know where you want to cast I often cast towards 12 o'clock and see if the rig hits bottom, if not slightly cast at an earier time. When you cast you have to take into account what's going to happen. The rig will tighten and your line will tense, the weight will pull your rig downstream and will fish in an arc, the fish will most likely bite while your rig is between 1 and 2:30 o'clock, after 2:30 and into 3 you should experiment when you should pull the rig in. When you pull the rig in, maybe some shad will catch an eye and bite so be aware. While the rig is swinging, personally I hold on the line with my index finger and make a slight bend on the rod so I'll be aware of any bite or snag when it happens but there are some others who reel in very slowly so the rig won't snag...
Now you ask me 'what's the diff?', well, when you're fishing often the rig might bump bump with very little articulation and no sticcado (for you piano folks), that would be bouncing off of the bottom and quickly reel in a little so you're just off the rocks. Now a slightly quick hold-up would be a snag on the rocks and you should quickly reel line up before you really snag up. A long progresive hold-up is a snag on someone's hung up rig and you could try out my technique which I'll later explain. NOW, a bite from a shad is quickly recognizable as it has a lot of sticcado and will be very quick, usually there will be two bites from the head shake and sometimes there'll be a fast hookup where you are already hooked up on the fish. Another quick action from your rod wouldn't hurt much, but remember quick and concise so you won't pull the hook out of the fish's tender mouth.
Frequently, there will be lots of fisherwo/man who will fish alongside with you and it's a lot like combat fishing, when you fish with these guys, hooking on another fisherman's line is common, the technique to that is to cast over everyone's line at 12 o'clock and be aware of your right and left partners who may cast at the same time and reel in when you reach around 3 o'clock and it's a continous cycle if done correctly. Hint: watch first and then join the group, please allow enough space for each person as hooking another person is not fun :argue: :rolleyes:
Now, whenever you do snag to rocks or a rig on the river bottom there's a technique I've created so I could get out of these tight situations. First of all, avoidance is the best way to not get a snag. But be prepared for lots of snags. Now when you are in a swing and you feel and starting rock snag you should quickly reel in the line to avoid it but sometimes it's too late and the best technique is to [reel in the slack line VERY QUICKLY and at a 1 o'clock position, at the same time pull on the line and reel], usually this works for me. When that doesn't work PLEASE, DON'T TRY and PULL BACK and FORTH the rod so there's a swwoooff sound :hoboy: :hoboy: :hoboy:, this is VERY BAD 1, this sound is amplified in the water by 10 and fish don't like that 2, this is very dangerous I hate it when people do this since the line could snap and go where? right into your face or someone right next to you...just reel in the slack line as far as you can, and walk towards away from the snag with a slight elevation in the rod so there would be a better chance of loosening the line and saving part of it. There is a better chance of safely getting your rig back when it's much farther from shore than closer.
Well, I hope my time has paid off for those who want to catch some fast fish and have a great time :yay:
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/121.jpg
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/122.jpg
^??? :eek: