Bearing Races - Extraction and Install

[WaterDog]

Is there a tool to remove the bearing races besides a hammer and screw driver?

What is the easiest way to install new races? Hammer and screw driver again? It's a mighty tight fit.

[Gundog]

I would use a punch to drive the old one out and the old race and a block of wood to drive the new one in if you don't have a press. Do not hit the race directly with a hammer or a small piece of the hammer or race may hit you like a bullet shot from a gun. I have pieces of key stock that I use for driving out things like races. You can buy it at the hardware store key stock comes in different sizes and it is soft so when you hit it it won't shatter. there is usually a couple of groves on each side of the bearing race seat where you can work back and forth hitting one side at a time.
Mike

[fishineer]

When I did my bearings, I went to the auto store and bought a kit "Bearing Race and Seal Driver" and basically consists of a bunch of concentric aluminum cylinder sections. The idea is you pick the right size and place over the race or seal and when you hammer it, it distributes the force evenly. I used them for the races and the seals and also for re-installing the bearing buddy. Worked very nice. For removal of races, I think I used a screw driver and hammer.

[seadog]

Go ahead and drive the old race out and then freeze the new one before trying too install it, freezing the race will cause it to shrink enough that it will/should drop right in.

[jimh]

There is a tool made for it that you can rent at auto parts stores. The last time I took one out, the tool didn't work so well. So, I broke out my Dremel with a cut off blade. It didn't take long to cut through the race. :dance: Next time, I might go straight to the Dremel.

[larryb]

what i do is weld a bead all the way around the inside of the race let it cool they usually fall out then freeze the new one it should slip right in

[STGRule]

We use a drift and hammer out, a wood block and rubber hammer in.

[1pump]

Lisle/Carquest/Napa have the race drivers that Fishineer describes and they're not expensive enough to rent. I've had mine for 20 years and dozens of races, and it's not even close to worn out. And you can flip the cone around on the handle and use the flat side to drive seals as well.
The danger of using the old race to drive the new one in is that most times the old race gets stuck on top of the new one in the hub (unless it's a shallow hub). I used to be a machinist and that was one of my most common Saturday jobs- removing stuck races for weekend mechanics.
Punches, blocks of wood, etc are fine in a pinch, but I could go on all day about the damage you can do for lack of a $25 tool.
$40K for a boat, $35K for a tow rig, $250 for a rod, $300 for a Gore-Tex parka, $2.20/gal for gas, etc etc. Buy the tool.
Sorry, I'm not trying to pigeonhole you, but I used to spend 60 hours a week trying to help do-it-yourselfers help themselves. I had a bad flashback. Now I need a Valium. :sleep:

[WaterDog]

1pump, I agree with you. I picked up a seal puller yesterday but have not been able to find the race driver. I've got 3 trailers and the old man has 2 so buying the right tools is worth it.

[jet]

Rich,

Lets not forget all the I-Fisher trailers that you are going to do as well.

Rich is the right tool for the right job kind of guy.

This post reminds me that I should tear into the bearings and do the visual inspection. Rich do you know the proper procedure for adjusting the brakes once you get it all back together?Just in case here it is for the rest.

1.Jack the triler up,(make sure the trailer is supported by an alternate form of support as well.

2.On the back of the drum houseing there are 2 holes under the axle just right and left of center, remove the rubber plug if the plugs are still there.

3.Jack the wheel high enough so that the wheel spins freely , you are going to get under the trailer now, shine a flashlight into the hole and look for the adjusting wheel one hole has it and one does not, it will be the opposit on the other side.

4.Use a brake adjusting spoon ( the right tool for the job, a screw driver does not work well, and they are cheap) and spin the adjusting wheel until the wheel does not move, by the force of one of your hands while under the trailer.

5.When moving the adjusting wheel you will feel clicks, back the wheel off 8-10 clicks. (If you spin it 20 clicks you are going the wrong way) I like 8 so the the brakes come on a little sooner. Some trailers work best at 10 clicks.

6.Now repeate the process on each wheel making sure that all wheels are the same number of clicks, if not one wheel will come on sooner and the trailer will jerk to one side and create a unsafe braking condition.

Note; when you have your brakes apart make sure you disassemble the brake adjusting components and apply some marine grease in the threads as they will rust from saltwater and river use, you will not be able to adjust the brakes when assembled, (I know this from experience)

I hope this helps

Jet~~

[WaterDog]

Scott,

Good procedure list on brake adjustment. I got one of those as brake adjusting tools as well. I don’t think I’ll doing this work on a full time basis, tools or not. I got the boat sitting on jack stands in the driveway as I type. Waiting for parts to come in the mail for a liqua-lube conversion.

One thing to keep in mind is that with the drum brakes you cannot see the condition of the rear seal without taking the drum off. I had one completely pooched rear seal. Thought it was ok when I popped off the buddy bearing since no water came out (unlike one side where a lot of water came out) and there was lots of grease. Pulled the drum and what a mess. Grease all over the brakes.

Half of the bearings were in pretty good shape and the other half were pretty much toast. Couple of the outer bearings were pitted real bad and even had some rust due to water. I always do a “feel” check on the bearings once I get somewhere. None of them where feeling excessively warm or hot. It was interesting to tear it all apart and look at the condition the bearings were in. Each wheel was different.

I highly recommend anyone who owns a boat to do this maintenance yourself. It’s not real hard and if you have to do a roadside repair you’ll already know how to do it.

[WaterDog]

:whazzup:

[jet]

One other brake/ bearing note;

I always check the hubs after a trip to see how hot they are, this is a quick check to see if ther are any potential problems with bearing failure.

Last weekend I went to Scapoose, I did my normal walk to the back of the boat and checked the hub for excessive heat, none. The local Sheriff was ther looking and spoke up and said that he was impressed and has only seen this once this year out of hundreds of boats. The Sheriff, who is a boater said if more folks check for excessive heat there would be fewer trailers along the highway.

By the way brakes can create heat as well so check the hubs not the rims.

Jet~~~

[Keta]

Removal, Hammer and brass punch.
Replacement, NEVER use a hammer (:jester:) (in the "real world" you will eventual have to use a hammer to do this but in a shop or at home a press or "C" clamp is the way to go, you need to support the race over it's entire outside diameter when pressing it in. A press with the proper mandrill is best. A socket that is the same diameter as the race will work for a mandrill if you don't have one. You can tap the race in using the socket too, if you have to, but use a brass punch to protect the socket and your eyes.

Tip, if you are at home put the race in the freezer for a few hours and it will go in MUCH easier.

[jet]

Great freezer tip, make it smaller.

Jet~~~

[fortywinks]

"Old Man" to Son - You do understand that you are now a part of that tool. But I will be happy to help and lend moral support when we do mine. :grin:

[WaterDog]

As long as moral support includes beer. :grin:

[Keta]

Forty,

I can help you get rid of that nasty beer and point out how WD is messing up :grin:

http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/1305beer.jpg

[Codfish]

If you have a welder the best way to remove bearing races is to weld a bead around the inside of the race, let cool, race falls out. This is especially great for races you can't get behind to drive out.

CF

[Keta]

1" of weld is enough to do this.