Surge Drum Brakes - Maintenance

[WaterDog]

I'm going to be redoing the bearings on the trailer this week. Figured I may as well do the brakes as well since I'll have it apart. First trailer with brakes and I'm clueless. What do I need to know? Is it a matter of replacing the pads and then adjusting them?

Anyone have a link on the web that explains this in detail?

Any other words of wisdom?

[Bait O' Eggs]

Any other words of wisdom?



Whatda ya want to hear :grin: :grin: :grin:

make sure you dont have any parts left over when your done :wink:

:wave:

[Hanapa'a Time]

WD,

Depending on the condition of the pads and assembly(rust) you might not have to change the pads. Check for the usual glazing and leaking bearing or wheel seal which could lead to pad contamination. My understanding is that the pads are "special" and EZ Loader wants a hefty price for them :eek: I didn't bother looking elsewhere, maybe someone else has other sources. I was planning on getting one more year out of mine. I was doing the yearly bearing maint. in January, and discovered I had a leaking brake cylinder. I found that it is easier and cheaper to replace the whole assembly (backing plate w/ cylinder and pads) than to just do the individual components. Instead of going through EZ Loader, I talked to the dealer that I bought my boat from and bought a complete set for less than half the price EZ Loader wanted for one side. The only difference is the backing plates are powder coated, not galvanized. I figured for the price and as often as I do bearing/break maint(yearly). they will be okay, just keep an eye on them. I got almost three years and 12k+ miles out of the original brake assemblies with quite a bit of salt use.

I looked into disk brakes also, but for well over $500 to do them didn't seem worth it. We have to change the actuator/coupler as well as the hubs.

Sorry for the long post and no web link, hope this helps :cheers:

[1pump]

Most trailers use regular automotive brake components. The trick is to find a parts store with good counter people. And by that I mean stay away from Schucks, AutoZone and a few others I could mention. I used to work for a well-known chain and they had a line of brake parts for rv and boat trailers. If I got stumped I'd send people to Curtis Trailers or Potter Webster.

[Jet Drifter]

Servicing your rear drum brakes (http://www.pepboys.com/learning_center/car_care/articles/svc_rear.html)

Adjusting your RV Trailer Brakes (http://www.rvrepairmanual.com/adjustingrvtrailerbrakes.html)

Servicing RV Bearings (http://www.rvrepairmanual.com/servicing-rv-bearings.html)
And replace the Boat Trailer grease axle inner "oil seals" with the double rubber ridge inside surrounded with a spring band, (a double seal).
Removing the old inner "oil seal" without damaging the inner bearing is critical. I used two broad bladed flat screwdrivers. With the hub lying on table looking into the inside of the hub/drum, first lay one screwdriver flat against the inside of the inside wheel bearing. Then use the second blade screwdriver on edge to pry up the old "oil seal".

:cheers:

[WaterDog]

I got a pretty good NAPA near by and am hoping they have what I need. I get my oil and fuel filters from them for the boat. :shrug:

Another question, Once I remove the drum, will the brakes expand outward? I got it jacked up and the outer bearings out but when I pull on the drum I can feel the brakes sort of "holding on". I'm guessing they wont expand so I can't get the drum back on. :shrug:

This is kinda of a live as I go report I guess. Never done this stuff before. :whazzup:

Oh, and I'd encourage everyone to pull the cap off the hub. I had quite a bit of water in there. Lots of grease but a lot water too. :depressed:

[Gundog]

A old trick for removing the grease seals is to take the nut off of hub pull hub just enough to remove outer bearing, push hub back on put washer on put nut on and pull hub off real fast. Be careful not to damage bearing race inner seal and bearing will be right there and if need be you could reuse the seal emergency only always replace seals when repacking bearings.
Mike