Steelhead Tips and Rigs

[David Johnson]

This month I've decided to start a thread with tips and rigs for fishing winter steelhead.

For starters I thought I'd share the two ways I rig my rubber worms for steelhead. Sorry for the bad color but at least you can see how they are rigged.

http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/415wormrigs.jpg

First, for larger worms I like to thread them Canadian style for drif fishing or under a float. I first fished in Canada for steelhead ten years ago and this is how I was taught to fish them up there. Put a small bead between the hook and worm to keep from ripping the worm up.

And second, I like to run the 3" Lil Thumpers on a 1/8oz Gamakatsy jig head under a float.

[David Johnson]

When fishing bobber and jig I like to work a little soap into the feathers of my jig. This breaks up water tention and allows for the feathers to pulsate reel good in the water.

A well stocked jig box.....
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/415RobsBox.jpg

[David Johnson]

Here's a great product that has helped me keep order in the old tackle box. The Line Keeper, no more birds nests trying to get something out.

http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/415LineKeeper.jpg

Ten pound Maxima Ultra Green is my "go to" for steelhead leader material, even in clear water.

[David Johnson]

After all the talk about the "Shrimp Tail Jig" that First Cast jigs came out with I had to try some and see what all this was about.

http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/415bloodyfirstcast.jpg
This hatchery buck couldn't resist....

They work great :tongue:

One thing I really like about First Cast is the strong hooks they have. It's nice insurance for when that big one comes a knockin'.

[David Johnson]

DON'T CUT CORNERS

When drift fishing don't cut corners by trying to make a weight that's too heavy or too light work. It's like making that square peg go in the round hole.

Sure you can catch some fish on the not-so-perfect drift but your odds are better by getting it done right.

I'm as guilty as the next guy for trying to let out a little more line so my light weight will get down or casting just to the fast water because my lead is too heavy.

I've found that if I try and cover the hole with several sizes weight it pays off.

So don't get lazy and try and make it happen- MAKE IT WORK :smash:

[David Johnson]

While I'm on the subject of cutting corners.

The only thing between you and your fish is you line, leader and hook.

If your leader is nicked, change it. If your knot doesn't look quite right, re-tie it. If your jig hook gets bent, don't just bend it back, change it. If your hook isn't needle sharp, it should be.

There's someone out there named Murphy that loves to mess with fishermen so don't give him a chance to get you. If any of those things above need changeing, fix 'em because chances are, the minute you let down your guard that's when Murphy will come a knockin'.

Remember, hooks and line are cheap.

[David Johnson]

Polarized Glasses

Fishing big water most the year or at least water with color to it made me kind of forget how important polarized glasses had been in spotting fish.

I remember back to the day of beating the banks when I was a high school and college kid. I felt naked without them.

Now, with this clear water we have, I've found I need them more than ever again.

On one recent trip there were two of us with glasses and one without. The client that had them saw about 15 steelhead while guy that didn't have them only saw one fish. That's an eye opener :bigshock:

One problem with beeing able to see the fish though is that they can see you too. Sometimes that's not the greatest. Try and avoid wearing bright colors so that you don't stand out like a beacon to the fish.

When choosing polarized glasses there are a couple different colored lenses. The amber is best for low light/over cast and the smoke is best for bright sunny days.