Willow Drifter
01-15-2005, 11:47 PM
I was going through some boxes of jigs the other night and I came across one of my all time favorites. A jig that has turned into my “go to” jig, a jig that I recommend, a jig that I always seem to be tying for myself and friends. This jig for me has accounted for 4 of the 5 salmon in Alaska, Steelhead, Rainbows and Arctic Char. I have the utmost confidence. I owe many thanks to the creator of this fine jig. I have never met the great originator in person but I hope to one day shake his hand while chasing steelhead one morning. This great jig was originated by Twitchs_Tackle, the Purple and Pink Worm jig. If it is not in your jig arsenal it should be. I am going to show all of you how to tie it so you have no excuse not to fish this one. The first picture in this post is one taken by Twitch with the jig that inspired him. If that pic doesn’t get you going you are on the wrong forum. :dance:
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/44013470closeup.jpg
The equipment and materials you will need are rather simple but there are a couple of “must have” items that will make life a little easier.
1. Vise – Used to hold your hook. Any vise will work. If you are looking for a beginner vise the Thompson Model A is a great way to go and can be found rather inexpensively online or at a local shop. For a basic vise the Thompson A will last a long, long time. If you have a little more money to spend look for a rotary vise. I have a Custom Dyna King Barracuda with some special features added on at the factory that I will be handing down to my grandchildren when the time comes. It holds a hook rock solid and is built to last forever. Again it is your choice.
2. Bobbin - Used to hold your thread. I like ceramic bobbins since they won’t fray or cut your thread. Ceramic bobbins are a little more expensive though. For getting started any bobbin will suffice.
3. Scissors – Used to cut your thread and materials. Scissors are something that you don’t want to skimp on. Dr. Slick scissors are a quality product and can be had for under $20.00. The new razor scissors from Dr. Slick are very sharp and have a tension devise on the blades that comes in handy. You just want to make sure you have a good sharp pair of fine tipped scissors.
4. Hackle Pliers – Hackle Pliers to hold your hackle when palmering and winding. They are also helpful with folding hackle. I find that having 2 sets (or more) is very handy.
5. Needle or Bodkin – I use these all the time. Needles or Bodkins are used to help place materials and to aid with finishing off the head. I find this to be one of those tools I use for everything and highly recommend one. You don’t need anything fancy. A pack of 2 long doll-making needles cost around $1.50.
The materials we are going to use are pretty simple.
Hook: 1/0 Owner (your choice of brand, I like the Owner hooks).
Bead: 11/32” Solid Brass Bead (Nickel plated or Polished Brass).
Thread: Kevlar or GSP (Gel Spun Polyethylene) and black thread for the head.
Tail: Trilobal Antron Chenille in Fl. Hot Pink (this material has wonderful movement in the water).
Body: Your choice of Chenille. I have Cactus Chenille, Ice Chenille, and New Age Chenille pictured. I have used all kinds.
Hackle: Purple Saddle Hackle or Schlappan.
Other Materials: You can add Pearl Flash, Flashabou, or Ice Fur to the jig for added flash. Use your imagination.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/4401MVC-071F.JPG
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/4401MVC-072F.JPG
1. Place your hook in the vise and make sure that it is secure and won’t move up or down when pressure is applied to it.
2. Next thread your bobbin. Neatly cut the end of the thread. Take the tip of the thread and insert it into the bottom of your bobbin and then suck the thread out the tip with your mouth. This is way faster and easier then using a bobbin threader and it is free.
3. Wind the thread onto the shank (the long flat part of the hook). Hold the loose end of the thread in your non-tying hand between your thumb and index finger. Wind the thread backward and then forward over itself to lock it into place. You will need to use a little pressure to make sure it doesn’t slide around. Wind the thread back until you have it good and tight (this may take 10 or so turns). Pull the tag with your non-tying hand and cut it tight against the hook. (Kevlar and GSP threads are very, very strong so don’t wind them around a finger and pull too tightly. They will cut your skin. They are also very slick so it may take a little getting used to).
4. Next thread the pin through your 11/32” solid brass bead head. Wrap the thread around the pin and the shank of the hook. You will tie the pin on about mid shank. Wind your thread back to the point of the pin and then forward to the bead. This makes sure your pin and bead are really secure. Then wind (in wide spaced wraps) back to the end of your pin at the end of the hook shank.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/4401MVC-068F.JPG
5. We will start with the tail. Take your Antron Chenille and pull about ¼” of the fibers from the thread center with your index finger and thumb. This step is very important to get make sure you have a nice tidy underbody. Make sure you have “tag” secured the whole length of the jig body, this will assure that big steelie will not rip the worm tail off. I then cut the tail to about 2 ½” long. You can tailor the length to your own personal taste. I just find this length keeps the short strikes down a bit and still offers tons of movement.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/4401MVC-075F.JPG
6. Now select and prepare your hackle. Select a nice bright saddle hackle with no broken barbs and some nice marabou on the end. Pull off all of the fluff on the hard base end of the feather as it will make it easier to wrap around your hook. Tie in the feather by the tip and secure it along the shank of the hook.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/4401MVC-077F.JPG
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/4401MVC-078F.JPG
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/4401MVC-079F.JPG
7. Now tie in your Chenille body. I have selected medium Cactus Chenille for this one. Take the end and pinch out some of the fibers just like you did in the tail. Secure the "tag" the full length of the body.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/4401MVC-082F.JPG
9. Now wind the chenille forward to the head. As you wind the chenille “comb” it back with your left hand so that you don’t wrap it over itself. This will create a fuller and more even body. Secure the chenille at the head.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/4401MVC-084F.JPG
8. Now wind your hackle forward to the head. Fold the feather barbs back with your left hand just as you did the chenille. This will allow the barbs to be full and swept back a little. This allows tons of movement in the water and I find it more appealing to the eye. Once you have wrapped the hackle all the way to the front of the jig secure the end and cut off the extra stem.
9. Now tie off the collar and add some more thread wraps to create a nice even head. Use about 5 half-hitches to secure the head and then cut off the tip of the thread. With Kevlar and GSP you want to make sure that you have plenty of tension on the thread before cutting it.
10. For finishing off the head I like to use a half-hitch. I found a good explanation of this technique in the FFF booklet Introduction to Fly Tying (by Al Beatty & Bob Lay)
a. THE HALF-HITCH: The half hitch is one of two methods used to finish the fly. It is really nothing more than an over-hand loop that is placed over the eye of the hook and around the hook shank. When the excess thread is pulled out of the loop, it tightens around the hook shank and keeps the thread from unwrapping. Three or four of these applied to the hook is one way of tying off the fly.
It is applied like this:
· With the thread attached to the hook, hold the bobbin in your left hand with about four inches of thread between the hook and your bobbin.
· Hold the forefinger and the middle finger of your right hand apart about an inch and, with the back of your hand facing you, lay them across the thread.
· Rotate the fingers toward you 180 degrees forming a loop with the thread wrapped around the fingers.
· The thread from the bobbin crosses over the thread from the hook forming an X between your fingers.
· Slip this loop over the eye of the hook and gradually remove the slack from the thread. As the thread is tightened remove your finger and allow the thread to secure around the hook shank. (I like to do this about 5-7 times to really secure the head).
11. Now take your bodkin or needle and add some head cement of your choice and coat the thread. Also add some cement to the end of the worm tail. This will keep the fibers of the chenille from coming apart.
You are now done.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/4401MVC-088F.JPG
This last picture is of my finished jig (bottom) next to the last one of Twitchs’ jigs (top) I have left. I have retire this one as it has accounted for several memorable fish and I would just hate to lose it.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/4401MVC-089F.JPG
You can tie this jig in different sizes and colors. You are limited only by your imagination. :yay:
When selecting materials you can visit your local fly shop or visit Mark Anderson’s great site firstcastjigs.com.
I hope you all have enjoyed this post.
Thank you Twitch for your ideas, motivation, and talent. I hope to meet you one day. :bowdown:
WD
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/44013470closeup.jpg
The equipment and materials you will need are rather simple but there are a couple of “must have” items that will make life a little easier.
1. Vise – Used to hold your hook. Any vise will work. If you are looking for a beginner vise the Thompson Model A is a great way to go and can be found rather inexpensively online or at a local shop. For a basic vise the Thompson A will last a long, long time. If you have a little more money to spend look for a rotary vise. I have a Custom Dyna King Barracuda with some special features added on at the factory that I will be handing down to my grandchildren when the time comes. It holds a hook rock solid and is built to last forever. Again it is your choice.
2. Bobbin - Used to hold your thread. I like ceramic bobbins since they won’t fray or cut your thread. Ceramic bobbins are a little more expensive though. For getting started any bobbin will suffice.
3. Scissors – Used to cut your thread and materials. Scissors are something that you don’t want to skimp on. Dr. Slick scissors are a quality product and can be had for under $20.00. The new razor scissors from Dr. Slick are very sharp and have a tension devise on the blades that comes in handy. You just want to make sure you have a good sharp pair of fine tipped scissors.
4. Hackle Pliers – Hackle Pliers to hold your hackle when palmering and winding. They are also helpful with folding hackle. I find that having 2 sets (or more) is very handy.
5. Needle or Bodkin – I use these all the time. Needles or Bodkins are used to help place materials and to aid with finishing off the head. I find this to be one of those tools I use for everything and highly recommend one. You don’t need anything fancy. A pack of 2 long doll-making needles cost around $1.50.
The materials we are going to use are pretty simple.
Hook: 1/0 Owner (your choice of brand, I like the Owner hooks).
Bead: 11/32” Solid Brass Bead (Nickel plated or Polished Brass).
Thread: Kevlar or GSP (Gel Spun Polyethylene) and black thread for the head.
Tail: Trilobal Antron Chenille in Fl. Hot Pink (this material has wonderful movement in the water).
Body: Your choice of Chenille. I have Cactus Chenille, Ice Chenille, and New Age Chenille pictured. I have used all kinds.
Hackle: Purple Saddle Hackle or Schlappan.
Other Materials: You can add Pearl Flash, Flashabou, or Ice Fur to the jig for added flash. Use your imagination.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/4401MVC-071F.JPG
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/4401MVC-072F.JPG
1. Place your hook in the vise and make sure that it is secure and won’t move up or down when pressure is applied to it.
2. Next thread your bobbin. Neatly cut the end of the thread. Take the tip of the thread and insert it into the bottom of your bobbin and then suck the thread out the tip with your mouth. This is way faster and easier then using a bobbin threader and it is free.
3. Wind the thread onto the shank (the long flat part of the hook). Hold the loose end of the thread in your non-tying hand between your thumb and index finger. Wind the thread backward and then forward over itself to lock it into place. You will need to use a little pressure to make sure it doesn’t slide around. Wind the thread back until you have it good and tight (this may take 10 or so turns). Pull the tag with your non-tying hand and cut it tight against the hook. (Kevlar and GSP threads are very, very strong so don’t wind them around a finger and pull too tightly. They will cut your skin. They are also very slick so it may take a little getting used to).
4. Next thread the pin through your 11/32” solid brass bead head. Wrap the thread around the pin and the shank of the hook. You will tie the pin on about mid shank. Wind your thread back to the point of the pin and then forward to the bead. This makes sure your pin and bead are really secure. Then wind (in wide spaced wraps) back to the end of your pin at the end of the hook shank.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/4401MVC-068F.JPG
5. We will start with the tail. Take your Antron Chenille and pull about ¼” of the fibers from the thread center with your index finger and thumb. This step is very important to get make sure you have a nice tidy underbody. Make sure you have “tag” secured the whole length of the jig body, this will assure that big steelie will not rip the worm tail off. I then cut the tail to about 2 ½” long. You can tailor the length to your own personal taste. I just find this length keeps the short strikes down a bit and still offers tons of movement.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/4401MVC-075F.JPG
6. Now select and prepare your hackle. Select a nice bright saddle hackle with no broken barbs and some nice marabou on the end. Pull off all of the fluff on the hard base end of the feather as it will make it easier to wrap around your hook. Tie in the feather by the tip and secure it along the shank of the hook.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/4401MVC-077F.JPG
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/4401MVC-078F.JPG
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/4401MVC-079F.JPG
7. Now tie in your Chenille body. I have selected medium Cactus Chenille for this one. Take the end and pinch out some of the fibers just like you did in the tail. Secure the "tag" the full length of the body.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/4401MVC-082F.JPG
9. Now wind the chenille forward to the head. As you wind the chenille “comb” it back with your left hand so that you don’t wrap it over itself. This will create a fuller and more even body. Secure the chenille at the head.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/4401MVC-084F.JPG
8. Now wind your hackle forward to the head. Fold the feather barbs back with your left hand just as you did the chenille. This will allow the barbs to be full and swept back a little. This allows tons of movement in the water and I find it more appealing to the eye. Once you have wrapped the hackle all the way to the front of the jig secure the end and cut off the extra stem.
9. Now tie off the collar and add some more thread wraps to create a nice even head. Use about 5 half-hitches to secure the head and then cut off the tip of the thread. With Kevlar and GSP you want to make sure that you have plenty of tension on the thread before cutting it.
10. For finishing off the head I like to use a half-hitch. I found a good explanation of this technique in the FFF booklet Introduction to Fly Tying (by Al Beatty & Bob Lay)
a. THE HALF-HITCH: The half hitch is one of two methods used to finish the fly. It is really nothing more than an over-hand loop that is placed over the eye of the hook and around the hook shank. When the excess thread is pulled out of the loop, it tightens around the hook shank and keeps the thread from unwrapping. Three or four of these applied to the hook is one way of tying off the fly.
It is applied like this:
· With the thread attached to the hook, hold the bobbin in your left hand with about four inches of thread between the hook and your bobbin.
· Hold the forefinger and the middle finger of your right hand apart about an inch and, with the back of your hand facing you, lay them across the thread.
· Rotate the fingers toward you 180 degrees forming a loop with the thread wrapped around the fingers.
· The thread from the bobbin crosses over the thread from the hook forming an X between your fingers.
· Slip this loop over the eye of the hook and gradually remove the slack from the thread. As the thread is tightened remove your finger and allow the thread to secure around the hook shank. (I like to do this about 5-7 times to really secure the head).
11. Now take your bodkin or needle and add some head cement of your choice and coat the thread. Also add some cement to the end of the worm tail. This will keep the fibers of the chenille from coming apart.
You are now done.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/4401MVC-088F.JPG
This last picture is of my finished jig (bottom) next to the last one of Twitchs’ jigs (top) I have left. I have retire this one as it has accounted for several memorable fish and I would just hate to lose it.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/505/4401MVC-089F.JPG
You can tie this jig in different sizes and colors. You are limited only by your imagination. :yay:
When selecting materials you can visit your local fly shop or visit Mark Anderson’s great site firstcastjigs.com.
I hope you all have enjoyed this post.
Thank you Twitch for your ideas, motivation, and talent. I hope to meet you one day. :bowdown:
WD