winterizing 5.7 volvo penta

[salmonfever]

I am acquiring a volvo penta 5.7 i/o powered boat( freshwater cooled) It was originally winterized , but we recently test drove it. The seller is not re-winterizing it-and instead keeping heat in the engine compartment. Is there anything I need to do to stop freeze damage outside of draining the exhaust manifolds? ( I assume there is a drain plag onthe bottom of the exhaust mainiflds)

[Gundog]

There should be a drain for the block probably on both sides. I would check with a Volvo dealer and buy the service manual for it. What kind of boat is it?
Mike

[salmonfever]

it is a 25' Maxweld single hull Cuddy

[Grain of Salt]

I have the 5.0 volvo duoprop with fwc...I always drain the manifolds,(rubber cup comes off the stern end of the manifold on both sides), then drain the fwc by removing the brass plug (also has a zinc pencil attached, replace if corroded), loosen the screws on the raw water pump and crack it open enough to allow it to drain, I also have a power steering cooler that I drain...to be real safe the proper way to winterize is to run 50/50 enviro antifreeze into the raw water pick-up, this insures all raw water is protected...check the antifreeze in the block to be sure it is rated to spec as well...get a manual, it shows all the things you will need to address

[Rescue3]

I would check with a Volvo dealer and buy the service manual for it.



This is a good idea for all of us, though Volvo makes it hard. Most shop manuals are in the $50 range. Volvo publishes the manual as sections at about $20-30 each. I've got:

1. Intake, exhaust, and cooling systems
2. Fuel and lubrication systems
3. Engine body
4. Sterndrive

...and I think there's another 4-5 manuals I could have bought.

Still, it's worth it. Instead of trying to figure out how to get at that danged nut, the shop manual will take you through the correct steps so that you may not have to remove it after all!

[Grain of Salt]

Yes the shop manuals are spendy, but I also have a clymers or some other name that is an aftermarket...not as in-depth but more then adequate for a normal boater....anytime I cant fall asleep I just grap the EFI shop manual....yikes

[Tyeebuster]

Salmonfever,

Congrats on your new boat!! Sounds alot like my boat. I also have a Volvo 5.7 DP with a closed Cooling System. The Operators Manual that come with my boat says the following:

1. Make sure the closed loop has proper antifreeze protection.

2. Drain Manifolds by removing the plug at the back of the manifold.

3. Drain the heat exchanger (he picture in the manual has it oriented verticle and mine is horizontal).

4. Drain the raw water pump at the front of the engine.

PM me with your email address and I will try to scan the 2 pages in my manual and email them to you.....TB

[Tyeebuster]

Sorry, I miss read your original post.... For Raw water cooling it says to do the following:

1. With engine off, locate and drain petcocks located on both sides of the engine block (the picture shows it in the bottom middle of the block)

2. Remove drain plug at rear of the exhaust manifolds

3. Note the orientation o fthe raw water pump hoses. Loosen the hose clamps and remove hoses from raw water pump. Crank engine 1-2 revs to clear water from pump. Reinstall and hoses to original position and secure clamps.

CAUTION! Failure to connect the raw water pump hoses in the correct orientation may damage raw water pump impeller.

Hope this helps....TB

[Reelentless]

Dont forget to pull the prop(s) and grease the shaft. I've read where people had to chisel their props off because they neglected to do this.