Bait O' Eggs
06-07-2004, 06:44 PM
Some people put new eyes on their pole, :rolleyes: others put new guides on their rod :flowered:
When that favorite rod has a problem with a guide and you want to repair it, this step by step post should help you thru the process. :cheers:
I found this rod at a garage sale and it was in need of some help as you can see. I acquired the rod for this post.
http://traskrivertackle.com/Images/guiderepair1.jpg
First you must remove the old guide without damaging the blank. The safest way to do that is to cut the thread on top of the foot of the guide, so you have the metal foot of the guide protecting the sharp blade from damaging the blank. Once you have cut the thread you should be able to peel it off, getting the end of the thread and unwrapping the rest of the thread.
http://traskrivertackle.com/Images/guiderepair2.jpg
Once you have "CAREFULLY" removed the guide from the rod and cleaned up the blank, it is time to tune the new guide. Guides come in several colors and shapes, it is best to try and find one close to the same size, color and style of other guides on the blank. :eek: First you must taper the ends of the feet so the thread will wrap up the guide. If the end of the guide foot is not tapered you will get a break in the thread were the thread leaves the blank and continues on the guide (cosmetic thing). I use a file or wet stone to taper the ends of the feet. Then you need to straighten the feet on the guide. On a single foot guide there is no straightening to do, but on a double footed guide like in the picture, it is needed. I have the guide set on a straight edge and you can see light under the feet. These feet need bent so the feet of the guide will sit flat on the blank.
http://traskrivertackle.com/Images/guiderepair3.jpg
Next is to place the guide on the rod so it is lined up with the other guides. Some tape will work to hold the guide in place while you wrap the thread. I prefer to use a fly tying bobbin for thread management. There are several other ways to manage the thread. Thread comes in several colors and sizes. Most rods are wrapped with size A nylon thread, but it may vary on the rod you are repairing. Start by wrapping the thread on the blank and wrap towards the eye of the guide. Once you get several wraps on the rod, (at least 8 or 10 minimum, nothing wrong with more) you then cut off the tail of the thread.
http://traskrivertackle.com/Images/guiderepair4.jpg
Continue wrapping up the blank and onto the foot of the guide until you have approx 10 or 12 wraps left to complete the wrap. Then you will need to place a loop into the wrap so you can pull the tail of the thread back under the final 10 or 12 wraps. Make sure you place the knot of the loop so it doesnt have to be pulled under the wraps. And try to keep the loop away from the guide foot. If the tail is pulled back next to the foot of the guide their may be no thread holding the tail in place as the tail will end up in the tunnel where the thread leaves the rod and goes up on the guide. Once the wrapping is complete, cut the thread leaving a few inches, poke the end into the loop and pull the loop out of the wraps, this should leave you with the tail coming back under the final dozen or so wraps.
http://traskrivertackle.com/Images/guiderepair5.jpg
You will want to wrap the thread with some tension. Dont wrap so hard that you are at the point of breaking the thread, and dont wrap the thread very loose. It is hard to describe the tension needed to properly hold the guide, but when you are done the guide should not be impossible to move, though the guide should be difficult to move on the blank.
After you pull the tail of the thread back under the last 10 or 12 wraps you will need to cut the tail off flush with the other wraps. The easiest way to do this is to pull on the tail back towards the direction you were wrapping to open up a gap in the thread. Then cut the thread from the bottom side of the thread with a sharp razor blade. The picture should help describe this. When the thread is cut off right tight to the gap, the gap should snap back tucking the end of the thread under the wraps. If you have a fuzzy tail left sticking out, it will show up in the finish :hoboy: Nothing wrong with redoing it if you dont get it right the first time.
http://traskrivertackle.com/Images/guiderepair6.jpg
Then repeat on the other side of the guide. It is best if you can keep the lengths of the wraps uniform so it looks right. You rarely see a dual footed guide with different length wraps on each side.
http://traskrivertackle.com/Images/guiderepair7.jpg
At this point it is time to make sure the guide didnt move on the blank. You can adjust the guide as needed to align it with the other guides.
Next you will need to protect the thread. There are several products on the market to do this. Flex Coat is a popular product for this. In the picture are the items needed. This is a larger bottle of Flex Coat than most will needed. :rolleyes:
http://traskrivertackle.com/Images/guiderepair8.jpg
It is very important to mix the parts in exactly equal ratios so the material cures. The syringes work well for getting the material in equal parts. Some kits are available that the material comes in side by side cylinders that automatically dispense equal ratios, the smallest size I know of will do roughly 4 rods. Anglers Workshop in Woodland has a very large selection of materials and colors of thread. Once you have carefully mixed the materials being careful to not get bubbles in the mix then you need to apply it to the rod. It is best to trasfer the material to a second container so you dont get the poorly mixed material stuck to the sides of the container on your brush. I like to pour the finish on some aluminum foil. The material will spread out and be very thin on the foil. A deep slow breath on the material will pop most of the bubbles. Something to do with the CO2 in your breath reacting with the bubbles. :shrug: Then using the brush you will want to work the finish into the tunnels created when the thread leaves the blank and goes up over the foot of the guide. It is best to fill all 4 of these tunnels completely with finish. It is difficult to get them filled, but make an attempt at it with the brush by working the finish into the tunnels. Then you will want to coat the thread and lapping down onto the blank at the ends of the thread to keep moisture from getting to the thread. Try to keep the ends of the finish even all the way around the blank. I usually go from 1/16 to an 1/8 of an inch onto the blank beyond the thread. Once the finish is on the rod, you may have acquired some bubbles in the finish as you applied it. An alcohol torch is a clean burning flame that works very well at removing these bubbles. A cigarette lighter will work but you may end up with some soot in the finish as butane is not a clean burning fuel. A little bit of heat from the flame will make the bubble rise to the surface and pop. Dont touch the flame to the finish, just warming the finish for a few seconds will pop the bubbles.
The finish will take several hours to cure (assuming you are using Flex Coat high build). If you just leave the blank to sit you will get a drip on one side of the rod. You can either rig up a slow rotating motor to turn the rod for several hours, (think BBQ motor) or you can turn it by hand. A rod stand consisting of essentially a pair of forked sticks, or something as simple as a cardboard box flipped upside down with a couple notches cut in the ends to keep the rod from rolling to the gound will be handy. Depending on temperature and humidity it will take 2 to 5 or 6 or 7 ...??? hours for the finish to cure to the point it wont drip. Usually I can get away with about 4 hours of rotation. After the first couple hours the finish will become partially cured and the rod may only need a partial turn ever 10 or 15 minutes to prevent from acquiring a drip.
Depending on finish used it will take a couple days for the finish to fully cure. Dont be testing the finish on the rod with your finger or you may end up with a finger print in the finish (where is that "I am with stupid icon" when you need it). You can test the finish in the mixing cup if you have a need to touch it. :wink:
Give the rod a couple days to cure and the rod should be ready to fish.
If you dont like how it turned out, do it all again. :flowered:
When that favorite rod has a problem with a guide and you want to repair it, this step by step post should help you thru the process. :cheers:
I found this rod at a garage sale and it was in need of some help as you can see. I acquired the rod for this post.
http://traskrivertackle.com/Images/guiderepair1.jpg
First you must remove the old guide without damaging the blank. The safest way to do that is to cut the thread on top of the foot of the guide, so you have the metal foot of the guide protecting the sharp blade from damaging the blank. Once you have cut the thread you should be able to peel it off, getting the end of the thread and unwrapping the rest of the thread.
http://traskrivertackle.com/Images/guiderepair2.jpg
Once you have "CAREFULLY" removed the guide from the rod and cleaned up the blank, it is time to tune the new guide. Guides come in several colors and shapes, it is best to try and find one close to the same size, color and style of other guides on the blank. :eek: First you must taper the ends of the feet so the thread will wrap up the guide. If the end of the guide foot is not tapered you will get a break in the thread were the thread leaves the blank and continues on the guide (cosmetic thing). I use a file or wet stone to taper the ends of the feet. Then you need to straighten the feet on the guide. On a single foot guide there is no straightening to do, but on a double footed guide like in the picture, it is needed. I have the guide set on a straight edge and you can see light under the feet. These feet need bent so the feet of the guide will sit flat on the blank.
http://traskrivertackle.com/Images/guiderepair3.jpg
Next is to place the guide on the rod so it is lined up with the other guides. Some tape will work to hold the guide in place while you wrap the thread. I prefer to use a fly tying bobbin for thread management. There are several other ways to manage the thread. Thread comes in several colors and sizes. Most rods are wrapped with size A nylon thread, but it may vary on the rod you are repairing. Start by wrapping the thread on the blank and wrap towards the eye of the guide. Once you get several wraps on the rod, (at least 8 or 10 minimum, nothing wrong with more) you then cut off the tail of the thread.
http://traskrivertackle.com/Images/guiderepair4.jpg
Continue wrapping up the blank and onto the foot of the guide until you have approx 10 or 12 wraps left to complete the wrap. Then you will need to place a loop into the wrap so you can pull the tail of the thread back under the final 10 or 12 wraps. Make sure you place the knot of the loop so it doesnt have to be pulled under the wraps. And try to keep the loop away from the guide foot. If the tail is pulled back next to the foot of the guide their may be no thread holding the tail in place as the tail will end up in the tunnel where the thread leaves the rod and goes up on the guide. Once the wrapping is complete, cut the thread leaving a few inches, poke the end into the loop and pull the loop out of the wraps, this should leave you with the tail coming back under the final dozen or so wraps.
http://traskrivertackle.com/Images/guiderepair5.jpg
You will want to wrap the thread with some tension. Dont wrap so hard that you are at the point of breaking the thread, and dont wrap the thread very loose. It is hard to describe the tension needed to properly hold the guide, but when you are done the guide should not be impossible to move, though the guide should be difficult to move on the blank.
After you pull the tail of the thread back under the last 10 or 12 wraps you will need to cut the tail off flush with the other wraps. The easiest way to do this is to pull on the tail back towards the direction you were wrapping to open up a gap in the thread. Then cut the thread from the bottom side of the thread with a sharp razor blade. The picture should help describe this. When the thread is cut off right tight to the gap, the gap should snap back tucking the end of the thread under the wraps. If you have a fuzzy tail left sticking out, it will show up in the finish :hoboy: Nothing wrong with redoing it if you dont get it right the first time.
http://traskrivertackle.com/Images/guiderepair6.jpg
Then repeat on the other side of the guide. It is best if you can keep the lengths of the wraps uniform so it looks right. You rarely see a dual footed guide with different length wraps on each side.
http://traskrivertackle.com/Images/guiderepair7.jpg
At this point it is time to make sure the guide didnt move on the blank. You can adjust the guide as needed to align it with the other guides.
Next you will need to protect the thread. There are several products on the market to do this. Flex Coat is a popular product for this. In the picture are the items needed. This is a larger bottle of Flex Coat than most will needed. :rolleyes:
http://traskrivertackle.com/Images/guiderepair8.jpg
It is very important to mix the parts in exactly equal ratios so the material cures. The syringes work well for getting the material in equal parts. Some kits are available that the material comes in side by side cylinders that automatically dispense equal ratios, the smallest size I know of will do roughly 4 rods. Anglers Workshop in Woodland has a very large selection of materials and colors of thread. Once you have carefully mixed the materials being careful to not get bubbles in the mix then you need to apply it to the rod. It is best to trasfer the material to a second container so you dont get the poorly mixed material stuck to the sides of the container on your brush. I like to pour the finish on some aluminum foil. The material will spread out and be very thin on the foil. A deep slow breath on the material will pop most of the bubbles. Something to do with the CO2 in your breath reacting with the bubbles. :shrug: Then using the brush you will want to work the finish into the tunnels created when the thread leaves the blank and goes up over the foot of the guide. It is best to fill all 4 of these tunnels completely with finish. It is difficult to get them filled, but make an attempt at it with the brush by working the finish into the tunnels. Then you will want to coat the thread and lapping down onto the blank at the ends of the thread to keep moisture from getting to the thread. Try to keep the ends of the finish even all the way around the blank. I usually go from 1/16 to an 1/8 of an inch onto the blank beyond the thread. Once the finish is on the rod, you may have acquired some bubbles in the finish as you applied it. An alcohol torch is a clean burning flame that works very well at removing these bubbles. A cigarette lighter will work but you may end up with some soot in the finish as butane is not a clean burning fuel. A little bit of heat from the flame will make the bubble rise to the surface and pop. Dont touch the flame to the finish, just warming the finish for a few seconds will pop the bubbles.
The finish will take several hours to cure (assuming you are using Flex Coat high build). If you just leave the blank to sit you will get a drip on one side of the rod. You can either rig up a slow rotating motor to turn the rod for several hours, (think BBQ motor) or you can turn it by hand. A rod stand consisting of essentially a pair of forked sticks, or something as simple as a cardboard box flipped upside down with a couple notches cut in the ends to keep the rod from rolling to the gound will be handy. Depending on temperature and humidity it will take 2 to 5 or 6 or 7 ...??? hours for the finish to cure to the point it wont drip. Usually I can get away with about 4 hours of rotation. After the first couple hours the finish will become partially cured and the rod may only need a partial turn ever 10 or 15 minutes to prevent from acquiring a drip.
Depending on finish used it will take a couple days for the finish to fully cure. Dont be testing the finish on the rod with your finger or you may end up with a finger print in the finish (where is that "I am with stupid icon" when you need it). You can test the finish in the mixing cup if you have a need to touch it. :wink:
Give the rod a couple days to cure and the rod should be ready to fish.
If you dont like how it turned out, do it all again. :flowered: