Need Help with Downrigger

[BrionLutz]

OK...I've got my downrigger set up.

I've lost two fish with it. So it's working but not working.

The fish hit, it pulls the ball and then pulls the rod down, it snaps out of the clip and...fish off. The bait is torn in half.

It's happened twice, once with a typical cut plug herring rig and once with a BC Angling prawn rig.

I've got an 8 lb ball.

The tension on the clip seems good. I've got the line all the way back in the clip which is supposed to be the most tension.

So what am I doing wrong? Should I be using an even heavier tension clip? Heavier ball?
Brion

[jcarufo]

Brion,
Make sure the rod is 'loaded' with as much tension as you can put on it without pulling the line out of the clip. Mid pad on the Offshore Mediums should be fine. Also, don't hit the fish right away. Wait for the rod to bury, then break their neck.
Jean

[Bobberologist]

Welcome to the world of down riggers. When I pull herring I generally set the clip up fairly light and don't load the rod much. This enables the fish to pull it loose and munch away, when you go for the rod, take up the slack slow and easy, don't set the hook till you feel the weight of the fish.
This is a method I have used, but I have also lost fish on the bite.

[BrionLutz]

Jcarufo and Bobberologist,

You guys are killing me <grin>. Exact opposite advice. Thanks for the suggestions though. Gotta be something I can do to make it work.

I haven't had a chance to grab the rod. I've got the tension on the rod set pretty good. I'm only down 18 feet and back 25 feet from the ball and this is with braid so not much stretch.

I don't think I'd have lost either fish with a lead so I'm a feeling snake bit with the down rigger. It's putting me in the zone but losing the fish.

Seems to be losing it at the slack point, when it pops out of the clip. So the choice would be more tension via rod and the clip or looser as Bobberologist suggests.

I did think the idea with the downrigger was that it sets the hook when the fish tries to pull it out of the clip.

0-2 is not a good percentage on the downrigger.

Brion

[EVERREADY]

I was told to give the boat a little gas when the fish strikes. I have only fished with downriggers a few times but it seemed to work. I think the idea was to take the slack out of the line?

[corrirod]

Brion,

Both Jcarufo and Bobberologist are right. Both theories work it just takes experience with your downriggers to figure out what is happening. You're going to have to lose some fish to get it figured out though.

Which type do you have? Which clips are you using? How long is the pole you are using?

Here are a few tricks you can try:

1. On your mooching rig, if you tie your own, add a very small colored bead between the first and second hook. This gives the fish something to continue striking at if he initially strips your bait.

2. If you see the bite take the line off the clip and you don't see the rod bury immediately, flip the spool on your reel and start letting out line as fast as you can. Every so often just put your thumb on the spool for just a second and see if he takes it. I can't count how many times I've hit fish this way.

3. If you're not already, use the longest possible rod you can. Specifically designed downrigger poles are 10'6" long and are stout at the base and very flexible towards the tip, allowing the rod to bend itself in half. It's that bend that will spring back and take out the slack in your line when the fish takes the bait.

4. Check the position your pole is mounted. With slow trolling, and/or trolling in slow water, I like to run my rod tips low and pointing directly back at the bait. This takes out some of the slack that's in the line much faster than if the pole is angled way up and to the side. The faster water or speed you are trolling the less effect this will have.

Unfortunately the slower you troll the harder it gets with downriggers. It just takes some time to play with them and get them figured out and then you'll never want to fish without them.

Good Luck.

[ 05-05-2003, 12:00 AM: Message edited by: corrirod ]

[Slugranch]

I've had better luck with the downrigger releases that clip a little plastic grommett into a slot in a plastic rudder that attaches to to the cable clip and then the ball hooks to the snap on the rudder. You can adjust the release pressure by putting the plastic grommet in different holes on the edge of the rudder. Before I found these rudders, I had the best luck with red rubber bands. They were very positive and would stand up to the fish hitting the bait without breaking. When the fish finally broke the rubber band, he was hooked.

[BrionLutz]

Corrirod,

I've got the Cannon DigiTroll with the boom set at about 30 inches.

I've got the 8lb ball and the clip is an "Bluewater Research" "Offshore Release" with a "2". Clip is about 1.5" with a red pad. Instructions said, further back in the pad the greater the tension.

I've been using my 8' Loomis 904C which is listed as "Heavy Mod-Fast Action 12-25 lb/1-6 oz". I've got it loaded with green Spiderwire 80lb Stealth which is similar diameter as 17lb mono and really tough and no stretch.

I crank it down pretty good. A good bend to, it really snaps up when I get the hits.

I was putting the line all the way back in the pad figuring that a lot of tension the fish hooks itself pulling it out of the clip.

When the fish hit, they were pulling enough that it was pulling the rod down even further before it came out of the clip.

This is typically all slow troll, 1mph differential with the water to give the bait and spinner some action.

Couldn't believe that didn't hook the fish.

Seems like the "slack time" from when the fish pulls it out to the when the slack in the line is tacken up is when the fish is getting off.

Thanks for the tips on eliminating the slack. I'd think that nature of downriggers, there's always that slack and if that's where they're getting off the hook, the downrigger is going to have a higher loss ratio than lead.

I wonder if putting on a even tighter clip is the answer, since there is always going to be some slack with a downrigger. Idea being to hook the fish as it's getting it off the ball

What would you guess your percentage is on the downrigger vs. lead?

I love the downrigger idea so I really want to make it work.

Thanks for the tips.

Brion

[BrionLutz]

Slugranch,

Do you know the brand name and model of the downrigger clips with the plastic grommet?

Sounds like that is something to try, make the fish hook itself on the initial hit, getting the bait out of the downrigger.

Combine that with the stuff everybody else has suggested.

I'm determined to make the downrigger work. Ability to set the depth vs. guessing with weight, troll speed, etc.

Brion

[ET]

I do a lot of downrigger fishing and ther is lots of good info here. The only thing I would add is to use a heavier downrigger ball. I use 12-15lb balls even when fishing shallower water. This keeps the downrigger line straight down and I can really put a big bend into my downrigger rod(9' fiberglass, expensive graphite rods should not be constantly loaded like this). The toughest part is finding the release clip setting to match your setup.

[Fishslayer]

I would agree with a little bit bigger ball. The offshore releases are great and are less hassel.Burying the release 80% down is good.It keeps tension to the fish until he really takes it. It sounds like you are doing everything right. Maybe just a few short strikes? I know it's never happened to me :wink: Like said before load the rod up tight, when the strike comes (nice with braied line) the rod will pop up and remove some of the lack. The key is to reel down on it until the lack is gone and set the hook. I have seen more fish lost to people slowly grabbing to rod and just reeling in. You have to remove al the slack and then drill it. Good luck!

[snit]

Here's some more info for ya. I fish summer kings in the upper Columbia, and the depths are similar to what you are describing. I use 12 pound balls, but I've always used mono. This year I'm going to change to super line (actually did at Astoria for the falls last year). Anyhow, the last 2 seasons I've put 102 kings in my boat in this fishery all on riggers and I've only "missed" 10-12 fish. I use the "stock" Scotty clip and I put the line no more than 3/4 of the way into the clip. I set the rod low to the water and really "load-it-up", and then I just troll but I always watch the tip. These kings will pop the clip, but I don't want them to. I like to see the bite, pick up the rod, reel down, feel the pull, then "go like heck"!!! I pop the clip myself, reel up the slack and hit 'em good. It really works for me, and I've started some friends doing this and they're success rate has increased dramatically. I'll even troll with the rod in my hand (al' mooching) to feel the bite. Now, these fish may not be feeding like the springers you're after, so maybe they're strikes are more viscious, but when a kings pops the 'rigger my success rates drops dramatically. It might be all of the slack in the line or maybe there's a weird/funny movement of the bait when the 'rigger pops??? And, as you know luck runs in streaks, good or bad...so just hang in there and it will change.

[BrionLutz]

Thanks for the replies everyone.

Went over to Fisherman's for an adjustable tension clip for the downrigger.

Capt. John saw me fooling around and came over. His advice matches some here in that he said a light clip release, just enough to keep the line in the clip and then let the fish pull it out easy, take off with the lure and take the slack out of the line and hook itself similar to regular troll.

He also suggested sharpening the hooks...always good advice so I'm filing away like a mad man.

From what folks are saying, I wonder if I had reeled in real quick to get the slack out on the two hits if I would have gotten the fish. When it popped out but never bent over after popping out, I figure I'd lost the fish.

At least I know the rigger and bait are getting the bites.

Brion

[Land Shark]

This is some good info, I have been having the same problems Brion. I wasn't sure if maybe I wasn't getting enough pressure to keep the line in the clip or if a fish was taking it out. If I have been missing fish I kinda feel a little better . I have had a drought for a week or so. I am going to try some of these suggestions and see if things improve. One other thing is maybe if you use a longer clip line there won't be as much slack? Think I will try thet.

[corrirod]

Brion, I think by all the replies you can see that it's just a little trial and error process. I do think you could've still hooked those fish, especially if you still had bait left on the hooks. Just keep trolling but let line out and every so often put your thumb on the spool and wait for a jerk. Probably 9 times out of 10, if I still have bait left, he'll either come right back and nail it or he actually still had it in his mouth and was just following the boat and finally turned.

Some of us Salty Dogs watched an underwater video of a salmon take on a downrigger. It was a great learning experience. It is amazing just how long they will follow a bait and how lightly they will try to take it. Normally they just swim up behind it, slowly get it in their mouth, and then sort of kink their body to turn but the force of the boat/bait moving keeps them from making a real sharp turn. Thus the reason you'll see your rod tip bouncing but the darn fish hasn't pulled it off the rigger yet. This is why some people speed up to help take the slack out and make the hookset. The reverse psychology of this method is to use lots of slack and let the fish take it off the rigger and turn with it before the slack comes out. I've done both, it just takes some refinement.

There is no better way to target fish than with downriggers but it does take some practice and tears.

[Terry H]

Brion, I've used DR's for the last 24 years.I've used them in the Willi for 20.
This year for some reason the fish are biting weird. I've had fish come off that I know would have been in the box in other years. Wish I had the answer.
I've tried the loose release--lost fish.I've tried the tight release--lost fish.
But stick with them they are thr best way to control depth and usually they set the hook for you. Can you imagine grabing the hooks , turning away and coming up tight on that 10lb ball? :shocked:
If I did that ---you could lead me anywhere you wanted.
Terry

[norms gone fishing too]

use a long limber rod that the key i have found i have the same rod you have and would never use it on a downriger 10'6 med hevey loaded up will put fish in the boat go med or med lite for steelhead

[Green Machine]

Brian-
Here's what we do in the sound up here for what it's worth. :shrug: A little deeper water though, around 100 to 120 feet. I run 11 foot poles with 15 pound test line to decrease the drag and you can really load them up. Definately 12# balls. 8# is a little light, especially if you have a lot of current like the CR or Willy. For bait (herring), I use a rudder flasher that attatches to the downrigger line and above that a 2' piece of STRONG surgical tubing at which the Scotty clip is attatched. Let out one boat lengths line and clip the line in about 2/3 of the clip. Load up your rod and troll to the speed that gives you the best roll. When a fish hits, the tubing will give, letting the fish bite and take it. Grab the rod, but wait for him before setting the hook. Once he has inhaled the bait and turns, the tension on the tubing is strong enough to trigger the release. You will hear or feel the "snap" and reel down quick until you feel the fish and bury the hooks with your hookset. Fish on!! Gives the fish more time to munch. Just one theory that works for me and I'm sure others disagree. They do this alot in Canada, where it is hands off until the snap! Funny though, with spoons it is the opposite. I use no tubing and deep in the clip and as soon as the release pops, go get him. LOL.

Green Machine

[Mako King]

Hey Brion,
In my favorite fishery, here in the Sound, I exclusively fish downriggers for Kings and Silvers all summer/fall at many types of depths. I agree with all of this good info regarding rod lenghts(9-10.5),clip tension (3/4), ball weight(10-12lb),load rod to the tilt, etc.. I've experience good hookup ratios by allowing Kings and Coho to "pop" the release but then I immediately pick up rod and reel until I feel fish fight back. This is a must because of the barbless hook rule and many times it's because the fish is running right towards the boat. If you let the fish set his own hooks after it pops, they will find Houdini-like ways to spit the hooks. Oh and one last thing that hasn't been brought up...I never use slip tie leaders (I've never lost so many fish in one weekend derby), always solid tie my own!

That's my .02! Stick with it, once you dial it in you will love downriggers!

[Mako King]

Hey Brion,
In my favorite fishery, here in the Sound, I exclusively fish downriggers for Kings and Silvers all summer/fall at many types of depths. I agree with all of this good info regarding rod lenghts(9-10.5),clip tension (3/4), ball weight(10-12lb),load rod to the tilt, etc.. I've experience good hookup ratios by allowing Kings and Coho to "pop" the release but then I immediately pick up rod and reel until I feel fish fight back. This is a must because of the barbless hook rule and many times it's because the fish is running right towards the boat. If you let the fish set his own hooks after it pops, they will find Houdini-like ways to spit the hooks. Oh and one last thing that hasn't been brought up...I never use slip tie leaders (I've never lost so many fish in one weekend derby), always solid tie my own!

That's my .02! Stick with it, once you dial it in you will love downriggers!

[BrionLutz]

Terry H

....usually they set the hook for you. Can you imagine grabing the hooks , turning away and coming up tight on that 10lb ball? <font size="2" face="verdana,arial,helvetica">That's what I figured, that they'd hook themselves getting the line out of the clip but twice they've torn the bait in half pulling it out of the clip (set deep in the clip) and no fish.

Thanks for the local knowledge...good to know I'm not on a fools errand getting the downrigger working.

I see all the other advice and common denominator seems to be:

1. 10-12 lb ball.
2. 9-10 foot heavier rod with lots of tension.
3. 80% into the clip.

I'll make those upgrades tomorrow. Anybody recommend a "perfect" downrigger rod?

The "lots of tension" would seem to preclude a light tenion on the clip or the rod tension would pull it out.

Snit's advice about pulling it out of the clip when you see the bite start is interesting...that takes some fast reactions unless, as he suggests, you hold the rod.

That seemed to be another common denomiator from Make King, Green Machine also...jump at the first sign of a bite, pop the clip yourself, get the tension out and set the hook manually, don't depend on the tension of the clip to set the hook.

Thanks to all the fellow downrigger cult members for the advice.

Brion

[Lundman]

Howdy fellow downrigger folks,

I ran across a new way that eliminates the "Do I have the Right tension setting" on my release clip?

Let your outfit (lure and such) out the 25' or so and then take a large rubberband and double it back through the itself around the line. Tighten completely down. Then take the rubberband and stick it in the release clip all the way to the max.

The rubberband act a a shock absorber for about the first 5" to 8" and with super sharp hooks you will have them when your rod pops up.

I have used this method and it DOES work but the secret is to match the rubberband size with the size of fish you are targeting. At sportsmans they have the smaller rubberbands for targeting kokanee - they work great.

This has taken the nightmare out of those release problems - Try it - you won't be disappointed.

What happens to the rubberband - it breaks off just like it's supposed too.... Bring lots of rubberbands...

[Toyn]

My two cents:
Seems like I get a LOT of missed Springers... with or without downriggers. The easiest way is to let them hook themselves(count of 3)..THEN grab the rod out of the rod holder. Fall fish are a LOT easier to hook...or is it my imagination?

[ 05-06-2003, 05:40 PM: Message edited by: Toyn ]

[Green Machine]

Brion-
I use the Shimano Convergence. At around $65, it's hard to beat. Plus the local guy gives me a life time warranty on the rods. :smile: I know Lami makes some good ones if you want to spend a little more?? Just my $.02. I use 6501 reels too. So, my outfit is fairly affordable and have really had no problems with equipment failure. LOL

Green Machine

[BrionLutz]

GM,

The Shimano sounds good to me.

Thanks.

Brion

[Tyeebuster]

Brion,

I am not an expert with downriggers, but have fished them with very good success. Hope this information helps, most of it will be consistant with the above.

If fishing Herring or anchovys I either fish them whole or plug cut. I always use Fixed Leaders and witheither a 4/0 forant and 5/0 back or a 5/0 front and a 6/0 back hook (size to match your bait). If fishing whole baits, I use a Rotary Salmon Killer or a Krippled Herring head. With this type of head your are able to get the "killer spin" with the fixed tyied leaders. I make sure that the trailing hook is placed so that the the eye of the hook is even with the back of the tail of my bait. This method just kills those "short-striking" fish.

I use a 12 pound ball and connect a "rubber snubber" (sold at Boaters World) between my ball and the downrigger cable. This helps you to save your ball in the event of a hangup. I use Scotty Power grip plus releases (part # 1173). These can be bought at Fishermans Marine.

I generally set my bait back about 12-15 from the downrigger cable. Then, after getting my gear to depth, I reel all of the slack I can with out releasing from the clip.

I use Lamiglas model XCF 106 4F fiberglass downrigger rods. They are 10'6" and a 10 to 20 line rating. They allow you to place a "healthy bend" in your rod that will help to pick up the slack when it releases.

Now for the part most will disagree with. For down rigging I use a Shimano 4000 GT Moocher Plus reel. This is a single action "knuckle buster" reel used by self respecting Canadians everywhere. They work great for down rigging. The biggest advantage is that you can loosen the drag an place them in the rod holder when running your gear to depth. Once you are at depth you re-set the drag and reel up the slack placing your rod in the "tension" mode.

Also, I use Mustad Ultra point hooks when fishing barbless in salt water. I use these hooks for two reasons. First, they will stay sharp much longer than Gama hooks in the salt and they are "beaked" which helps to hold fish once they are hooked. BTW I generally use Gamas for every thing else.

Hope this helps.

[BrionLutz]

Tyeebuster,

Thanks for the info.

I've been going out 25 feet from the ball so your idea of going back 12 feet would help a lot.

I wanted to get the bait away from the ball, figured it would scare the fish off.

Do you set the tension hard or soft on the clip?

Do you hook when it pulls the bait out of the clip or do you hook the fish after it is out?

Brion

[Tyeebuster]

The clip is set medium (about the line on the middle of the clip). I like to have it so a fish of 12 to 15 pounds will pull the line from the clip. If the fish is small they are unable to pull the line from the clip. If this happens, I reel up the slack an give the rod a shrp jerk to release the line from the clip.

I work on the theory that the fish sets the hook. When it comes out of the clip, I pick up the rod and reel in the slack as fast as possible. It is my thought that if they hit it hard enough to pull it from the clip that they have set the hook. Also, I believe that the "loading" of the rod helps to set the hook.

[Tyeebuster]

One other point. Generally the downrigger line will not scare the fish. I know some people that set their gear back only 4 or 5 feet. However, if you are fishing plugs (like the J plug) I will set it back up to 40 feet. I do this because the plug will have more action when set back farther.

Also, I "stack" gear when fishing in the Salt water. Stacking is fishing more than one rod on a downrigger. If you do this you want to have the gear spread at leaset 20 feet apart on the line. So, if one is fishing at 90' the other is at 70' or less. When stacking you want to keep your distance from the ball short to avoid tangle ups.

If the fish are shy, then increse the distance from the line.

[Rubber Robin]

Brion,

I first used downriggers when we went up to Haggards Cove on Vancouver Island. Between three of us we probably caught approx. 70 salmon.

Up there we had plenty of opportunities on how to dial in our down rigger fishing. I have used them down here in the ocean and Buoy 10 fishing with good success. Yes, you will occasionally lose fish, but that will happen with any technique. Hang in there and the fish will come!!!

Good luck. You have added another deadly technique to catching fish.

[GutZ]

WhooHoo! Tyee combine that 4000 gt with the 10 1/2 foot convergence and you have a fantastic trolling set up! I am lucky and have convinced a couple of buddies to convert. I have been using thier gear as much as possible. One has the 10 1/2 rated 12 to 25 4 to 6 ounce and the other is a 10 1/2 rated 12 - 20 1 to 4 ounce. I have caught chinook on both setups. What a blast!

Regarding releases, I use the Offshore and reriggem to about 18" or so. Cabella's sells the stacker for the same price as a single? Strange. I just cut 'em apart and you have two releases.

Good Luck Brion!

[Knucklebuster]

Tyee buster is right. I use my Shimano Moochers all day everyday. Hence the name. Great on downriggers. Wouldn't leave home without 'em.

[BrionLutz]

Tyeebuster,

I went with the Lamiglas XCF 106 4F. On the reel, I went with a Penn 975 with the power handle. I'm on a Buy American kick. Penn and Lamiglas both claim Made in USA.

Got the 12lb ball.

I'm going to load the reel up with the SpiderWire Stealth Moss Green 80lb which is a 17 lb mono profile.

Next stop...the fish box &lt;grin&gt;.

Brion

[night stocker]

Brion,my thoughts were you really didn't do anything wrong with the fish.that's the way it goes sometimes.been following this thread for a couple days to see what the experts say.i have had some success for springers with the DR but am far from an expert.i always set the depth out and make sure i can pop it from the release.i have used a medium graphite 8 1/2(not expensive).the first one i caught it didn't come out of the release.watched that fish munch on the herring for 10 seconds or so and couldn't take it anymore so i layed into it.it was a 12lb. fish.the little guy just didn't have the power to trip the rigger.the second fish was way different as my rod bounced a couple times and shot out of there like a speeding bullet!as soon as it came out of the release i set the hook.27lb spring.the third bite,same thing.bounce,bounce,out of there.unfortunatly,i was shaking the dew off my lilystalk and was a few feet away from the rod.by the time i grabbed the rod and set it,TOO LATE.what a power bite.reeled in bare hooks.so i went to FMS and bought a Penn power stick.i think it is 9 ft fiberglass DR rod.so i am using this penn loaded up and i start to get a bite.i watch this thing chew on that herring, seemed like 15 seconds or so untill i just manually popped the little guy.14lb.the thing with that FG rod that i didn't like was it was so soft and that last fish was not hooked very good.very easily could of lost that fish as the hooks came out as soon as i got it in the net.anybody who knows me knows that i am not a weak hook setter.oh,i use the 8 lb ball too and hooked all those fish on different days btw.when i am trolling downriver from Willamete Pk i might have a lot of line out behind the rigger ball.maybe a hundred feet or so.some places you cant do that but were you can i do.i don't use the rigger too much anymore as it is a little mechanical and i think i catch WAY more fish with a lead weight.i can check bait a lot easier and such.hope this helps you.NS

[BrionLutz]

Night Stocker,

...my thoughts were you really didn't do anything wrong with the fish. <font size="2" face="verdana,arial,helvetica">You are being too easy &lt;grin&gt;. With lead, I think I would have had those fish. Of course, with lead I might not have been in the zone.

Therein lies the dilemma. It's probably going to be more important with the Fall Chinook who tend to run deeper on the thermoclines.

When I mark them, I want to know my lure is where the fish are.

The deeper you go, the harder it is for me to have confidence in the depth of the lead while the downrigger lets me put it on the fish.

I've got a crew for this weekend and next week so I can put lead and the rigger out and see what works.

Brion

[ET]

This thread may never end! Brion - About the line... I have mixed feelings about spiderwire for downriggers. The downside is that in my experience, the spiderwire doesn't hold in the clip as consistently as mono. The spiderwire fibers tend to fray(maybe not fray) or flatten in the clip and release prematurely. I love the small diameter, strength and feel of spiderwire, but haven't been happy using it in my Scotty pinch-type clips. Maybe it is better with a different clip?

What do you other guys think?

[Spoiled Daddy]

OK Being relatively new to DR'ers, I have another question. Do your lines "sing" with increased pressure?

I have a set of Scotty's and when I get over about 80 feet of line out, they start singing. It's nothing that I can sing along with at all and my wife hates the noise. :whazzup: I still catch fish when they are "singing", but is it because of too much tension or not enough, or...? Depending on where and what I am fishing for, I use either 8 lb or 12 lb balls for the riggers.

Thanks in advance. SD

[BrionLutz]

SD,

Mine definitely sing...I also found out the fishing line is singing.

That's worried me as much as the ball scaring off the fish.

I can get the fishing line "singing" down but increasing or decreasing the tension just a bit or shifting the rod in the rod holder.

Brion

[Knucklebuster]

This "singing" you're refering to is not all that uncommon. I use mine as far down as 200+ feet and sometimes mine sing all day. I believe it is the way the wire is displacing water and creating vibes up the wire to the rigger. I see no problems behind it. I still catch the nookie while singing. :blush:

[Jerry Dove]

Brion. Where are you fishing that you need a down rigger? Put that thing in a rod holder,with a fish flash a little lead and a pluged bait, when it starts to go off, feed a little line and then set the hook, (LIKE A MAN), Just kidding. I only use downriggers in real deep water. I know, we disagree again. Come on down to Tillamook and I will show you how to catch some real fish. I fished Portland three days last week. Came home with 5 fish, and was told more than once to (GO HOME FLAT LANDER). Ain't it fun. JD

[BrionLutz]

Tyeebuster,

Actually I was already a confessed downrigger user &lt;grin&gt;. We used them for Bluefish, Bonito, Stripers, Weakfish on the East Coast. The ocean water gets warm and the fish go down so you have to get down to the cool water thermocline, typically about 40 feet.

We used divers, weights etc. but I never liked all that stuff between me and the fish.

I love the idea of the flasher on the wire, not connected to the fishing line. Great setup!

I was getting line twist with the regular braid but I don't get it with the Spiderwire which I switched to this year.

Brion

[BrionLutz]

Jerry,

Where are you fishing that you need a down rigger? <font size="2" face="verdana,arial,helvetica">Ranier to Multnomah Channel up to Oregon City and as far up as Bonneville are my regular cruising grounds.

Downrigger or not to downrigger is more of a vanilla/chocolate issue. You don't "need" it but it has it's advantages.

1. No guessing on depth which can vary with boat speed, line drag, current (which can change with depth), weight etc.

2. Nothing between you and the fish, no divers, weights, etc.

I've been having an OK Springer Season and lots more to go, until the end of May should be good on the Willamette and Sandy. I've actually done OK on the downrigger with two hits on two slow days but I lost them which is the source of this thread...how to set up the downrigger correctly so I don't lose them.

Come on down to Tillamook and I will show you how to catch some real fish. <font size="2" face="verdana,arial,helvetica">Hmm...would they look anything like the pic below? I love fishing Tillamook and do that in October/November. I'll see you down there.

http://www.olyc.com/images/xNov342lbb.jpg

Brion

[Tyeebuster]

Brion,
Sounds like your well on your way to becoming a downrigging convert. I am a big fan of using baided line. However, I use mono on my down riggers for 2 reasons. The Shimano 4000 holds about 500 miles of line and I have had some twisting probles with braid. I use a chain swivel between my mainline and a ballbearing swivel in the middle of my leader. Yet I still tend to get some line twisting.

Also, one other tip is, if you are fishing herring or spoons. I sometimes hook a "dummy" flasher to the ball and clip my line above the flasher with the herring trailing 4 to 7 feet behind the flasher. With this method you get the attraction of the flasher, but you don't have to fight it with a fish on. Good Luck, Tyee

[Lundman]

What NO comment about the rubberband in the downrigger release!!! I thought someone would at least shoot me down.

Here they are - made by Cannon:
Elasti-Clip Line Release
Light tension (4 lb.): Part no. 2250121
500 pack light bands only: Part no. 2276739
Heavy tension (10 lb.): Part no. 2250008
200 pack heavy bands only: Part no. 2276001

Why don't you smart boys & girls give them a try -
I had to before I was a believer.

You can lead a horse to water.... :whazzup:

Take the Release Tension out of the equation.

An $6.00 investment....

[BrionLutz]

Lundman,

Are you using the light or heavy rubberbands?

Just to refresh my understanding, you use the Elasti-Clip (heavy or light) and the fish hooks itself pulling it out of the ball or do you need to grab the rod, break it out manually?

Brion