View Full Version : Hogline etiquette
Mako King
03-15-2003, 08:38 PM
OK guys, here come the newbie questions. I’ve searched old posts and learned a lot about techniques, methods, gear, bait, river rules and precautions. I have a lot of boating experience in the Sound & Ocean and always exercise boating safety in my 21 ft Mako center console (fiberglass offshore hull like a Whaler). I have experience navigating smaller rivers in a small aluminum boat, so venturing onto the Columbia @ Cathlamet (weekdays only)is not intimidating to me. So onto my questions:
Will my danforth anchor and chain be appropriate for springers?
I know shallow anchoring is the norm, what length of anchor rope do you all use? (my 250 footer is overkill to tie up and toss over with my float)
When approaching and anchoring up to a hogline, what should / shouldn’t I do? graemlins/1zhelp.gif Ask 1st? – Any input would be good, I don’t want to ruin anyone’s experience on the water…so I'd rather you tell me now so I won't...come on, what are those peeves? (sp)
Thanks :cool:
The Fishing Geek
03-15-2003, 08:49 PM
Hogline Etiquette (http://www.ifish.net/cgi-local/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=26;t=003366#000000)
Silver Hilton
03-15-2003, 08:57 PM
My 2 cents.
First, your danforth may not be enough anchor. I'd test it out first. An excellent spot for doing that would be between the 48 and 49 (I think, memory is fuzzy on the numbers, it's just below reed island by 1 mile) markers above Camas on the oregon side. There is a big flat there with strong current that also has plenty of room to check things out without getting in trouble. Best advice is, get a 28 -30 lb rocking chair anchor, you'll be happier.
Second, if there are boats in the spot you want to hook up to. Come off plane a ways out, and circle up from downstream. It's always a good idea to wave as you approach, and I always ask if they mind company. I'd anchor anyway, and they know it, but it's polite. If it's a popular spot, everyone is used to company. If it's not a common hog line spot, it's only polite to ask if they mind company. Few people will refuse.
As you're coming up even, note the line direction that their anchor rope defines. Come up alongside them at the distance from them that you want to anchor. In most areas of the the river, this should be 1 or two boat widths or more, some areas the accepted distance is less, even gunnel to gunnel. Until you're familiar with the situation, err on the wide side.
Strike a bearing straight upstream along the anchor line of the boat that you are anchoring next to. Head up stream fairly quickly, so you don't lose your line. Drop anchor, and it's usually a good idea to throw the anchor to the side away from the boat you're anchoring next to, to increase the room. As soon as the anchor is down, apply a bit of thottle and helm so as to get the bow pointed upstream and a bit away from the boat you'll be next to. This will cause the current to push you away from them as you settle down on the rope. Settle back, keeping the rope out of the prop! and tie off so that you're even with them.
Key hog line ettiquette pint - never hit anyone hard. Gentle will be forgiven, about once.
I use 200 feet of line. I use a velcro strap to contain excess line once anchored. You should be able to use your 250 foot rope just fine, as long as you figure out how to contain the excess. A zip tie will work, as will a bunch of different fancy knots.
Hope this helps.
Mako King
03-15-2003, 09:00 PM
WOW Geek, I searched but I missed that whole thread! :hoboy: Thanks!
SH - Thats good help too ! Thanks :smile:
[ 03-15-2003, 09:04 PM: Message edited by: Mako King ]
IFISH4U
03-15-2003, 09:41 PM
Wow, right on, SILVER HILTON, you can anchor next to me anytime. your right, but how many actually do it that way, they usually anchor above you, come all the way down even with you and then realize they are close enough to wrap your Kwikfish. Then they go to pull up anchor, nearly putting a wave in your boat, then realize they anchored right on your anchor and now they just pulled your anchor up to, so you have to move again, lol right now, but not at the time, ha,ha.
BrionLutz
03-15-2003, 10:29 PM
MakoKing,
Silver Hilton said: Drop anchor, and it's usually a good idea to throw the anchor to the side away from the boat you're anchoring next to, to increase the room. <font size="2" face="verdana,arial,helvetica">Eric Linde, one of the top guides, noted in one of his talks to do it exactly as SilverHilton said but drop the anchor directly over the bow.
He said tossing it to either side will put you in a different position from the one you lined up.
Which is what SilverHilton was advising to give yourself more room but it might be better to learn to do the line up and the over the bow toss so you learn to end up exactly where you intend...which you won't do the first few times you try.
On the Danforth, it might do it. AS the guys suggest, see if it will hold. Pick low tide when the current is the strongest. I know one of the gudies uses a Danforth on his 25' boat.
First time I did it I used a modified mushroom anchor and it looked like I was on wheels going through the hogline. Finally some guys took pity on my (or feared for their lives) and said STOP tie up to us and the get yourself a real anchor tomorrow.
Now I've got a follow up question on technique. I see some guys, drop the anchor and then gun the boat in reverse into the line. I'm afraid of building up that much momentum so I let the anchor set and then lower myself into the line by letting out anchor rope.
This lets me know that I'm in the right position and, if I'm not, I can pull up and retry without disturbing the folks.
So the question is...what's with the full power reverse mode I see. Should I be trying to do that?
Brion
PS Sweet boat by the way. Makos are hot.
Nanook
03-15-2003, 11:44 PM
QUOTE
"Now I've got a follow up question on technique. I see some guys, drop the anchor and then gun the boat in reverse into the line. I'm afraid of building up that much momentum so I let the anchor set and then lower myself into the line by letting out anchor rope." END QUOTE
Exactly! graemlins/applause.gif The gun it back into the line is the most stupid and most dangerous boat trick there is.
Drop high enough to safely come to a complete stop well above the line's anchor buoys, then slowly come back into the line with your rope.
Get a good Columbia River pick (four prong rocker anchor with chain and break away). You won't be sorry you did.
Leave some room between your boats, "git outta here with those bumpers." :tongue: :tongue:
My biggest pet peave of all. Someone who drop's right behind a bunch of boats already lined up!
How in the world is someone going to get around your rope and you with a big fish on, perhaps bash your boat and theirs and worst case, put a bunch of folks in the drink and potential mortal danger.
I start foaming at the mouth when this one happens. :sick:
And yes, hang it and then drop it straight off the bow. Can you imagine your leg or arm tangled up in the rope and going over with the anchor? Don't throw the dang thing. A cinch cleat on the bow can save your butt too, so all you have to do is lay the rope in it to stop the rope from going any further.
Don't practice at Bonneville. :hoboy:
Some don't's and do's that make it better and safer fishing for everyone! :cool:
Rick
[ 03-16-2003, 12:05 AM: Message edited by: ****** ]
Silver Hilton
03-16-2003, 06:52 AM
Another tip. Don't coil your rope. Store your rope by stacking it in the bow. By this, I mean, as you pull the rope in, lay it down in the bow. It will naturally tend to try and form a set of figure eights. Let it. Lay these on top of each other, and then set your anchor on it when it's in.
Every new guy I take out tries to coil the rope. Coiled ropes tangle. The figure eights will come off neatly and hardly ever tangle.
You want to do this first at home, so that you're ready for the river.
Some guys stuff the rope into a five gallon bucket, but that's too much trouble for me.
To the other folks about dropping off the bow, that's what I do myself. I recommend going off the opposite side precisely to give a little more room for error.
I don't know why you guys don't like the power reverse. I like to power down, and then slam the throttle forward when I get too close, throwing my anchor man into the drink, so I do a practice drift out and get him. :wink:
Duckie
03-16-2003, 01:01 PM
Brion,
How much is that Big Water anchor roller? How can I get one?
STGRule
03-16-2003, 01:43 PM
Brion: 5 cable ties? Are you able to break those if you're hung? I use two so I at least have a chance. But then, I'm just the wimpy girl.
BrionLutz
03-16-2003, 02:04 PM
Duckie,
How much is that Big Water anchor roller? How can I get one? <font size="2" face="verdana,arial,helvetica">.
I think it was about $150. I had MotionMarine install it. They added the pin through the anchor, repositioned the mounting bolts and welded/filled in the original bolt holes. Tim at MM did a nice job.
Big Water Company (http://hometown.aol.com/bigwatercompany/BigWaterCompanyindex.html)
STG Rule: On the tie wraps breaking when needed, I think they are rated at 50 lbs each so that's 250lb breaking. That didn't seem like a lot.
Brion
ibeanfishin
03-16-2003, 02:07 PM
Brion, I to like the looks of that anchor roller please respond, I would like to buy one.
1pump
03-16-2003, 02:14 PM
Brion,
What are those welded "hooks" or cleats for along the gunwales? Never seen, or at least noticed, that on a boat before. :whazzup:
BrionLutz
03-16-2003, 02:52 PM
1pump,
What are those welded "hooks" or cleats for along the gunwales? Never seen, or at least noticed, that on a boat before.<font size="2" face="verdana,arial,helvetica">They allow you to reposition the boat to one side or the other without having to reanchor. If you are as shakey as I am on the hogline anchor, you need all the gimmicks you can get your hands on <grin>.
After you anchor, with the line going straight out the roller, you may find yourself too close to another boat on one side or the other or, worse, out of the fishing "hotslot".
You take the anchor rope and, instead of running it straight out the bow, you put it through one of the hooks and it changes the angle and your boat will move to port of starboard. It's called "shearing".
Brion
1pump
03-16-2003, 03:30 PM
Good idea for those that frequent the hoglines. I'll have to file that in the "possible future mods" category. :smile:
BrionLutz
03-16-2003, 07:50 PM
1pump,
Those anchor line hooks are $25 each at MotionMarine.
Brion
CATCH AND EAT
03-16-2003, 08:14 PM
All I know is that if you see Crabbait out there he is the perfect one to cross anchor. He will great you with a friendly smile and say thats okay. Then when you try to post on ifish you find you have been moderated, band and your boat has these funny dents resembling cannon ball sinkers. :wink: :cheers: Now that is the rule of the river for ya. :shocked:
Mako King
03-16-2003, 11:18 PM
Thanks for the input!
Brion- thats one nice achor set up. I 've taken your tips to heart and will purchase the appropriate anchor and remember the sheering tips. Are those cable ties between the anchor and chain? Is 10 ft chain the norm? What size anchor rope?
C&E - Thanks for the heads up :wink:
BrionLutz
03-16-2003, 11:39 PM
Mako King,
I'd try your Danforth. When I started fishing out here I could not believe that the Danforth, CQR's, Bruces etc. would not work. I mean the river is just not that unique.
After my mushroom debacle, I just gave up and got the EZMarine beast you see so I could show up the next day without getting shot.
I'm still convinced a properly sized Danforth would work.
On the chain, I said 10', I may really have about 5'...fishermen lie.
On the length and size of the rope, I purchased the whole rope and anchor puller setup at Fishermans for $150.
You do know about the anchor puller and the buoy?
That came with 300' of rope...an...ahem...accident shortened that to about 150'. I haven't needed any more than that locally but if you were to go up to Bonneville where it really rips, the guides I've fished with up there like to have 300' for the added scope.
Yes those are tie wraps on the end of the anchor. The deal there is your anchor rope attaches to the chain. The chain is held by the tie wraps. If the anchor is stuck, the ties break and you are pulling via the chain which is now at the base of the anchor vs. at the end of the shaft. That gives you a different angle and hopefully gets your anchor back.
Now you do know you are getting advice from a sophmore salmon fisherman?
Brion
BrionLutz
03-17-2003, 12:09 AM
****** and MakoKing,
Thanks for the info on the "speed anchor" method...now I don't feel so bad not doing it <grin>.
Get a good Columbia River pick (four prong rocker anchor with chain and break away). <font size="2" face="verdana,arial,helvetica">Here's my new anchor setup. That's a 32lb EZMarine anchor and it holds my boat (22', 5500 lbs) pretty good.
That's a Big Water Company anchor holder. Note the stainless pin through the anchor to secure it.
And yes, hang it and then drop it straight off the bow. <font size="2" face="verdana,arial,helvetica">This setup should allow me to lower the anchor and chain (10') down, jam cleat it and, when I get lined up, drop it.
No anchor toss.
http://www.ifish.net/uploads/10001274.jpg
Brion
Gr8waves
03-17-2003, 08:13 AM
****** - I can understand and agree with the anger at people who anchor up too close below an established line but I have a question for you: How far downstream do you, or anyone here consider safe, 100 yds? 200 yds? 500 yds?(lets assume the CR Kelley Point area, I realize the downstream distance would be greater at an area like Bonneville with much faster flows).
Nanook
03-17-2003, 06:36 PM
You are right. Let's just say it's not only 75 or a 100 yards, or even 200 yards in some ripping current at Bonneville. It has everything to do with off the anchor with fish escape routes around ropes, boats and other obstacles.
For example, Oak Tree rippin' water, anywhere really below the line inside the island side of the green marker or right up stream from the green marker is hazardous to coming down with a big fish in big current.
It's gonna happen anyway, but again, please don't motor up 75 to 100 yards behind the line, look right at everyone, act like you don't see everyone (well, at least me :laugh: ) going nuts in the line and drop it anyway. :tongue: :shocked: :tongue:
In the above case, I guess the alternative is to wait for the first fish lost in your rope or too close of a call from a boat trying to get around to find out. That ain't too pretty sometimes. :hoboy:
Besides, if there are 5 to 10 boats already in line, some of them have been sitting there a long time waiting to fish, the "first come" and "common sense protocol" rules should apply, as the bottom line, IMHO, as well.
Frenchman's, softer water, the farther down the better, but as you said, not as critical, except the obviously too close situation.
By the way, 2 sea socks are critical as well for manuevering, positioning and not swinging all over the place in the line. Don't forget them.
No absolute correct response or distances I suppose, primarily knowledge, experience, common sense and safety. I can guarantee you, someone, everyone, will help you get into the line if at all possible, rather than have you set or join another line that is way too close. Motor up to the outside of the line, find out what's going on, ask for help, etc., if needed.
See you on the river. :cool:
Rick
[ 03-17-2003, 06:56 PM: Message edited by: ****** ]
Mako King
03-17-2003, 09:28 PM
Brion,
Thanks for all the help. I think I have a clear picture of what to do and what to use. Yes, I've used the anchor and puller on a friends boat near Kalama. He has the same anchor as you and I can see the advantage of using it in deeper water for sturgeon. I thought my danforth would be ok in shallow water. I may try it in a test spot first.
******- I was wondering when someone stressed the sea socks. I thought one would be ok, guess 2 would be better. Thanks
I do want to be safe and thats why I asked. I could imagine some of the things that could happen in a tight hog line with others so close. All this info gives me a clear idea of what I need to do to be safe for all. Hope to say thanks in person someday graemlins/applause.gif
BrionLutz
03-17-2003, 09:41 PM
MakoKing,
You'll probably need the two sea anchors.
The Mako is a deep vee and you know how going slow the deep vees wander more than flat bottom boats.
Same thing will happen in the 5 knot or less current, the anchored deep vee will tend to wander.
I have a relatively deep vee for a jet, 16 degree, and I wander more than most of the other jetboats.
I sure do you envy you that Mako for cruising up and down the Columbia, a sweet ride.
Brion