Stevens Marine Boat Doc' Forum [Archive]

Boat Doc'

12-05-2003, 03:03 PM

Okay here goes. I'm going to answer these this way for now.By the way neither Stevens Marine or i-fish are responsible for loss or damage as a result of opinions offfered on this forum.
To Jen- Darn my crystal ball just broke. Iwould have to refer you to Bill.
To El-Kabong-The addition of a good quality water seperating fuel filter should be used on any application using multiple fuel tanks or built in tanks. It would be recommended only one filter be used besides whatever the manufacturer supplied with engine. And no you shouldn't experience any restrictions on a system in good operating order.
Regarding hard starting Sport Jets, after sitting they lose there prime. Since these are in effect inboard engines they cannot have a primer in the engine compartment. The newer models have an electric fuel pump that primes the engine only while engine is cranking to assist in cold starting. Older engines require the engines mechanical pump to pull the fuel to engine which can take a while. You could add an electric fuel pump to system that must be Coast Guard approved and limited to 3 psi output.
Oxygenated fuel shouldn't effect the starting of engines. I would guess there is some other problem like the choke not closing fully. Todays engines are desighned to run on those fuels. Engines prior to approx.1986 may experience problems with rubber components.
So far as scheduling service please call the store and the service counter guys can help you.
On the 18 Evinrude, we can't service them for you. However if you have two mixture adjustments you set them as follows. Low speed which is the top one, screw it in to a lightly seated position and back out 1.5 turns. High speed which is the bottom one is 3/4 turn out from lightly seated position. Run it in gear under load, adjust high speed in until it starts to die then back out until it runs smooth. Slow down to idle and adjust low speed in until it slows down or starts to cough and back off until it smooths out. That's all there is to it.
Lastly back to Sportjet- none of them have a choke that is controlled by the key switch. Pushing in the key switch does nothing. They do have an enrichener valve that is controlled by a temperature sender in engine head and the engines computer.

Hope this answers everyones questions for now Doc'

Bait O' Eggs

12-05-2003, 03:17 PM

Boat Doc - Glad you are up and posting on ifish.

I have never owned an inboard/outboard boat, only outboards. How hard is it to change out an outdrive on a inboard/outboard boat? Are special tools required? They look like you could just unbolt it and bolt a new one on, but I cant see what is inside until I actually try to take one apart?

Usually I have no problem with taking anything apart, figuring it out, putting it back together, tossing the extra parts :rolleyes: and proceeding.

Is it impossible without getting special tools or can a reasonably mechanical person figure it out?

[ 12-05-2003, 03:18 PM: Message edited by: Bait O' Eggs ]

Lured In

12-05-2003, 03:26 PM

Boat Doc...you may have just solved one of the greatest mysteries surrounding the SportJets.

What a great start and thank you! graemlins/applause.gif :grin:

WaterDog

12-05-2003, 04:16 PM

No mystery about the sportjet choke, READ your manual. :rolleyes: :wink:

Back to the question, so why is the sportjet so darn cold blooded? :whazzup: Is there a fix?

Tilla

12-05-2003, 04:51 PM

Doc,
I hear that outboards with jets should be started in gear. Is this true and why?

Flatfish

12-05-2003, 05:03 PM

Doc,

every time I make a whiskey sour, it comes out too sour. What should I do?

J/k.

Hopefully our very busy doctor will be able to post some answers here, so I can learn for free. graemlins/program.gif graemlins/stupid.gif graemlins/dork.gif

Mark and the crooked eyed dog.

[ 12-05-2003, 05:05 PM: Message edited by: Flatfish ]

fortywinks

12-05-2003, 08:23 PM

Roy - maybe you should toss those leftover parts into a coffee can and leave it in the boat, along with some string, zip-ties, old broom handles, and duct tape. You never know when they might come in handy :shrug:

Gun Rod Bow

12-05-2003, 08:49 PM

Flatfish,

I will answer this one since I have some experience...leave out the sour, ice cubes will melt :wink: Simplicity baby!

Boat Doc,

1. On a 1992 200 hp Merc Jet (From Stevens) would you recomend removal of shoe, sharpening impellar, re-shimming, at home with some basic mechanical skills? How often?

2. I have heard that the Auto Blend thingies for kickers are not recomended. I love my 2 stroke 8 hp Merc kicker, I hate (strong word I know) the extra tank. Any suggestions for Auto blends for kickers?

THX

timinthegorge

12-06-2003, 06:05 PM

Welcome Boat Doc..... I bought my '03 Stryker from Steven's in Tigard and I've had good service, and great reliability..... I couldn't be happier!

Good luck with your Ifish experience..... Tim :rolleyes:

Plum Crazy

12-06-2003, 07:22 PM

TTT Love this stuff keep it up DOC- Waiting for the reply on Outboard Pumps. I alway thought Neutral is the place to be since your only moving a plate changing the direction of the jet's output,Forward and Reverse right :whazzup:
Fire :cheers:

fishoman

12-06-2003, 08:02 PM

graemlins/applause.gif Boat Doc: This is way cool, thank You.I have an 88 merc 8hp ss that gets fuel to the carb, but thats as far as it goes. It will start with starting fluid. Does this carb have a float, if so how hard is it to repair.Could the injector be plugged.

Beancounter

12-07-2003, 07:30 PM

Hi Boat Doc, welcome.

My 2000 5hp Honda starts right up, runs great for about 10-15 minutes and then dies. I tilt it up, losen the little gas drain on the fuel line, a little gas runs out. Then it starts right up again, runs 15-20 minutes and stops.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

chummer

12-08-2003, 10:43 AM

Going back to the sport-jet quandry, would installing a squeeze bulb primer in the fuel line help speed the starting process??

fishing is life

12-08-2003, 01:02 PM

Thanks for the help Boat Doc. I would like to see what you say about chummers question. I just would prefer to save the starter for the future.

salmonman

12-08-2003, 04:39 PM

Boat Doc,
I have a Bayliner model 1950. My question has to do with winterizing. Is it sufficient protection against a cracked block to just disconnect the block and manifold drain hoses and let the water drain out? I'm assuming it is, but just wanted to check that I did not have to run antifreeze through the engine when storing for the winter.

Boat Doc'

12-09-2003, 08:29 AM

To Bait o Eggs, Yes outdrives are easily removed with basic tools. If replacing one you must use same model and gear ratio.
Tilla, All jet drives are always in gear, they use a diverter to redirect water flow to accomplish neutral and reverse. On outboards there is no true neutral as shift adjustments are made when all the way in forward gear. Some inboard jets do have an adjustment to provide for a true neutral.When starting your outboard jet I would recommend starting it on the trailer, tyed securely at the dock or with the boat pointed in direction to avid collision if the boat should lurch forward or backward when started.
Flatfish, what works for me is more whiskey and a bottle of aspirin for the morning.
gunrodbow,all outboard jets should periodically be checked for proper shimming and have the impeller sharpened. We set the clearance around .010 measured at three points. The symptoms of this needing to be done would be slower than normal acceleration and oor a lack of top end. There is no real time frame-It would depend on how it is being used. Regarding automatic oilers, I have seen numerous engine failures from oilers. It seems as they age they can start to mix oil at ratios greater than 50:1 and at times no oil at all. As a result we do not recommend the use of them. The old Auto blends seemed to work well, but the Accu-mix is the one that had problems. Only other recommendation at this time is a 4-stroke.
fishoman and beancounter, sounds like you both have carbureator and or stuck float or needle problems. They need to be carefully disasembled and thoroughly cleaned.
chummer, primer bulb is one answer BUT it does not meet Coast Guard regulations, you will create a fire and explosion hazard. The previous recommendation of Coast Guard approved electric fuel pump still applies.
salmonman, you don't say if you have fresh water cooling. If you don't you must drain both sides of block, both manifolds, oil cooler and remove large hose where it attachs to water pump.

FishinMission

12-09-2003, 01:43 PM

Boat Doc... I got a 2001 200 Merc that Stevens installed..tiller setup. The alarm horn is not working. Where is it? And how do I check it out??

Mark

fishing is life

12-10-2003, 12:22 AM

Boat Doc, if possible can you quote an estimate on what a fuel pump for the sportjet like the one you described would cost?

Boat Doc'

12-10-2003, 01:10 PM

To all of you regarding hard starting sport jets. Let me start out by saying that neither Stevens Marine or i-fish are responsible for any loss or damage as a result of opinions offered in this forum. You can wire the stock fuel primer pump to a momentary switch. You would need #10 wire long enough to go were ever you decide to mount a switch. Also a waterproof momentary switch. The circuit needs to be protected by a 3 amp fuse. Disconnect the primer from its existing power supply on the starter motor side of starter solenoid and wire the switch with 3 amp fuse werever you like to control it. Before starting the engine I would run the pump for about 5-10 seconds or until you hear the pump bog down. Keep in mind this a modification of the product. If you are not comfortable doing this DON'T. Get somebody who is. If your motor is not equipped with a primer an electric fuel pump runs about 250.00. Holley makes a Coast Guard approved one.
To Fishin mission. Your 200 has a horn that is located next to key switch inside the tiller. to test the horn locate the temperature sender on the stbd. cylinder head. Follow the brown wire with blue stripe to the terminal block it attaches to on stbd. side of motor. With the key on motor not running jump between brown-blue stripe wire and ground. The horn should sound. If it does system is functioning normally, if it doesn't you need to get it checked out. There again if you are not comfortable doing this DON'T.

Tagster

12-10-2003, 01:36 PM

Wow!

Boat Doc, thank you for your eforts with this...

I really appreciate your time.

graemlins/applause.gif

I am impressed.

Tag

WaterDog

12-10-2003, 01:46 PM

Finally!!! An answer I can work with. And no, Stevens and ifish is not responsible for any damage incurred.

Realize that anyone that chooses to do this mod my void their warranty! Proceed at your own risk. :smile:

Guess I got a weekend project now. :grin:

Thanks boat doc.

FishinMission

12-10-2003, 02:07 PM

Thanx, BoatDoc...I'm certainly comfortable doing that..especially after R&R ing a crank (successfully..I might ad) from a prior 200 Merc.

I hate elecrtical stuff tho. :shrug: :wink:

Mark

[ 12-10-2003, 02:07 PM: Message edited by: FishinMission ]

fishing is life

12-10-2003, 04:49 PM

Boat Doc thanks for your informative suggestions. You get my business when i am ready.

By the way all, they have a better price on zincs with aluminum tabs for welding on the boat than West Marine. 16 bucks. West marine sells the zincs with steel tabs. graemlins/stupid.gif

FishinMission

12-13-2003, 10:49 AM

Boat Doc...

Looked up there inside the tiller ..next to the ig. switch...and all I have is the trim switch, ign. swith, and kill switch. I guess I shoulda mentioned that this is an older tiller setup from about '94 or'95. I'm thinkin' the horn is somewhere on the motor...as I sure don't see it in the tiller switch area.
Care to comment??
Mark

Seefood Man

12-13-2003, 11:15 AM

Welcome Boat Doc :cheers:
My question is which is the most reliable a 225 Optimax or a 225 4stroke. Also if you were to buy one, with your hard earned money, which would pick for a 25 ft, 10 degree running a tiller and pump? Thanks in advance Doc
Seefood Man

Pickles

12-13-2003, 02:46 PM

ttt

Fishplay

12-14-2003, 03:48 PM

Another option on the sportjet fuel issue would be to extend your fuel supply line outside of the engine compartment; install the primer bulb and then route line back into compartment.

This is a very easy modification and the bulb can be mounted out of sight and harms way just beneath the gunnel.

No Warranty Void With This Method

Boat Doc'

12-15-2003, 09:27 AM

Regarding the tiller horn, if you ground the sender with the key on if it has a horn you will hear it.If it doesn't you can add one.

225 4-stroke or 225 Optimax? Both have been very reliable. Both would have about the same fuel economy,four stroke weighs a little more, four stroke is probably a little quieter. Four stroke doesn't require external oil reservoir. Opti has a less costly tiller and weighs less. Its like Ford Or Chevy.

FishinMission

12-15-2003, 10:49 AM

Doc...I'ma thinkin' the horn doensn't work..as I've grounded it as you mentioned and nothing happens. I heard it when the motor first ran, but it quit after the first run (Yeah..I know..I shoulda took it back).

If the horn is shot, it obviously won't work...so my next move is to find it and replace it...but I'll be danged if I can find that sucker!!

Where else would/could it be??

Mark

Boat Doc'

12-26-2003, 10:10 AM

Fishinmission, on the tillers we use the horn is inside the tiller. If you feel along the bottom under the key switch it should stick down about 1/4 inch, its about an inch in diameter.

FishinMission

12-27-2003, 06:50 AM

O.K..It isn't there. Guess I'm missing one.

Care to enlighten me on installing one??

Mark

Mako King

12-27-2003, 09:09 AM

Hey Boat Doc,

I have a 1998 Merc 200hp on my 21" Mako. Last summer I lost the "plastic" gear that drives my oil injection pump, forcing me to run a premix fuel. I really want to go back to injection but my mechanic up here scared me with the cost and the likely hood of it happening again. Isn't there a way to permenently replace a "plastic" gear with a better designed one? How much should I expect to pay for this kind of repair?

Thanks for any input you may have!! - oh yeah, also any other upgrades that should be done when the gear is being replaced?

Boat Doc'

12-29-2003, 01:55 PM

FishinMission,Its easy to install, two wires and tie wrap it somewhere you can hear it over the noise of the engine if it should sound.

Mako King,cost of the oil gear replacement would be close to 700.00. What used to cause them to fail was the seal on the oil pump backing out and preloading the shaft that contacts the plastic gear causing it to strip. Later model pumps have the seal staked in so it will not come out. I would recommend replacing the pump and gear. After the repair you should continue with mixed fuel for a tank. Monitor oil level on tank in boat to make sure it is using oil.

FishinMission

12-29-2003, 02:16 PM

Doc...Which two wires?? I don't wanna cut the wrong ones...it might blow up!!

Just kidding....but I'd still like to know which two wires to connect it to.

Thanx in advance.

Mark

Salmon Stalker

12-29-2003, 03:13 PM

Just what I needed....A boat Doctor. I have a Chev 250 w/ a merc outdrive. This summer I put in a new motor and took it out only about 5 days after the engine was replaced. I also replaced the water pump impeller in the outdrive so I had the outdrive off and in two pieces.
When I went to winterize the boat, I was going to drain the oil in the outdrive and replace. I found that there was water in the oil and then also noticed that the outdrive won't turn. It won't turn w/ the steering wheel or by pushing on the outdrive. It feels locked in place.
I drained the water from the block about a month before this, but am worried that the water in the outdrive oil froze and screwed up the outdrive or something. Can you help me with this?

SR1 5

12-29-2003, 04:49 PM

Boat Doc, My 8hp four stroke Evinrude kicker needs a new water pump impeller. I picked up a new impeller today. Can you give me any tips on the procedure to change this?

boatfisher

12-30-2003, 10:40 AM

Boat Doc,

I have a 2002 Mercury 9.9 Bigfoot that probably has 100 hours on it. It always starts right up and runs smooth...Except for three times when it started running rough then died. Each time it has happened the motor has been trolling for at least an hour. After it dies it's hard to start, but once started and revved for a minute, it's fine again. Should I be concerned?

Thanks!

Boatfisher

Boat Doc'

12-30-2003, 03:20 PM

FishinMission, one wire is purple and the other is brown with a blue stripe-DO NOT CUT ANYTHING.these wires should be loose by the ignition switch, or locate the terminal block on starboard side of block, you will see those same wires and you can just add to them.

SalmonStalker,The best way to determine where the water came from is to pressure test the lower unit. You need 5-10 psi then listen or look for leaks. The most common areas are water pump seals, shift shaft seals and prop shaft seals. You could remove the outdrive and split the cases take it to a dealer and they could tell you what was leaking fairly inexpensively. As for your steering the most common place they stick is the support tube where the cable attaches to the transom plate. Have somebody try to turn the wheel with light pressure while you look in the back to see what is trying to move. It is probably the cable and not the outdrive. If it is below freezing it could just need to be thawed.It would be doubtful if any damage has occured from water in the outdrive.

Cutthroat, Remove cowl and look for the shift shaft that comes up from the gearcase at lower front of powerhead. Remove clip and clevis from shaft then remove the six bolts that hold the gearcase on. The water pump housing sits on top of the gearcase. When installing new impeller lightly coat the housing with grease and turn shaft clockwise while pushing down. On reassembly of gearcase it may be necessary to rotate flywheel to realighn splines.

Boatfisher, If this is a kicker application it sounds as if you are drawing fuel from the main engine instead of the fuel tank. A check valve in the fuel line going to the main engine would cure it. Could also be a fuel filter if you have not changed it. If you are running from a seperate tank I would check the vent to make sure it is open, if you still have problems try a different tank and hose to isolate engine from fuel supply. Could be engine fuel pump or fuel line primer bulb after above checks.

Premo

12-30-2003, 03:34 PM

I just bought a new 200 merc/jet tiller 2 stroke and it's a dog starting in the morning. Runs and starts great after the first start in the morning. What is the best starting procedure on this motor. Thanks

Ian

Boat Doc'

12-31-2003, 07:39 AM

Green Pirate, Squeeze the primer bulb till its hard. Turn key on and push in for a count of 10 before cranking. While still holding key in crank engine till it starts. It will be necessary to continue to push in occassionally as engine warms up. If started properly these engines will start in 2-3 revolutions.

Bait O' Eggs

12-31-2003, 08:18 AM

Boat Doc, I have a 94 yamaha 115 outboard, with the 703 controls to a front steering station. After I pump the bulb hard I push the key in while cranking to choke. I dont have a problem starting but should I also hold the key in for 10 seconds before cranking?? Is that just a Merc thing you are describing? What is accomplished while holding the key in and not cranking?

Sounds like you are warming up the glow plugs on a diesel :rolleyes: graemlins/dork.gif :shrug:

Boat Doc'

01-02-2004, 08:50 AM

BaitOEggs,Some Merc models have a gravity fed enrichener system- when you push in the key it takes fuel from the top carb and lets it flow into the intake manifold. On your Yamaha the engine has to be cranking to allow the fuel to flow. So choking prior to cranking has no effect.

Boat Doc'

01-02-2004, 08:53 AM

freespool

01-02-2004, 10:22 AM

BoatDoc,I've got a 93 Yammi 225,should I avoid using oxygenated fuel? At present I'm going with Chevron primium as my fuel.

[ 01-02-2004, 12:36 PM: Message edited by: freespool ]

Airborne

01-02-2004, 10:36 AM

Boat Doc,
I have a 97'40hp Mariner force with the Merc lower it seems to run fine but I dont think the previous owner ever really had it tuned up, and the water seems to spray and sputter out of the water exit holes is this normal or does it need a new impeller for the pump? It never seems to run hot or over heat. As for the tune is it just the standard replace the oil in the lower unit, plugs and ??? thanks for the service...

[ 01-02-2004, 10:37 AM: Message edited by: Airborne ]

Boat Doc'

01-02-2004, 05:17 PM

Freespool, If you can avoid oxygenated fuel do so,in most areas it is all that is available.Using premium is good insurance against marginal quality fuels, however all of todays outboards are engineered to run on 87 octane or better unless otherwise stated in the owners manual. This would apply to engines manufactured after around 1988.

Airborne, Your engine is equipted with a warning horn that will sound if it should overheat, the holes at the back of the engine are back pressure releif holes to aid in idling at low speed. It would be common to see little or no water coming out of them. It would be advisable to replace water pump every couple years, as for the tune what you listed plus fuel filter would be standard items. If you are experiencing rough running characteristics then you would possibly need to do more.

Boat Doc'

01-05-2004, 09:11 AM

Bluetick, sounds like you have two problems, to stay at high rpm the linkage has to be sticking. Either the throttle butterflys or the spark advance linkage is hanging up. For the idle problem it sounds like the accelerator pump check valves are not functioning correctly on the side of the block. Also the synch and link adjustments should be checked to make sure they are in specs. If the check valves are the cause of the fluctuating idle you can pinch off the hoses going to them to verify.

snit

01-05-2004, 09:56 AM

Howdy Boat Doc'! Thanks for the opportunity to ask questions. Here's mine, that I also posted under a Sportjet topic recently.

Last month my wife bought a used 20' Alumaweld Intruder for me. It's a '99, with a 175 Sportjet. It's replacing a 18' Fishrite with a 150 pump (great boat, no problems, just 2footitis). Twice now, I've trailered in "freezing weather" to the launch only to discover both the steering and throttle cables to be frozen. After an hour soaking in the water, they free up and work fine, but I can't believe this is normal. I'm assuming water is entering the cables somewhere, then not draining out. Last week the boat was stored in a heated shop for 5 days, then trailered to the launch and they were still froze up. I'm not too concerned, just annoyed. Any ideas on where to start?

Thanks again BD!!!!

Boat Doc'

01-05-2004, 03:40 PM

Snit, Both the steering and shift cable are under water where they pass thru the jet, they are supposed to be protected from water intrusion by a rubber bellows that clamps around each one at both ends. They are visible from the back of the boat. I would guess they are missing or torn.

snit

01-05-2004, 04:15 PM

Thanks BD!!!!! I noticed they're both there (bellows), but in different place, like they're torn kinda like cv boots do. How tuff is is to get new ones and install them?

Sturgeon Tom

01-05-2004, 04:20 PM

GRB I ran one on my White Water kicker for years 11 to be exact and had no problums at all. If you want some more information let me know.
Tom

Thumper

01-05-2004, 05:02 PM

Hey --- This Boat Doc guy is good!!! :cheers:

Boat Doc'

01-06-2004, 01:56 PM

Snit, They are easy to change, just disconnect the ends of the cables and they slide off and on. Our parts guys can help you get new ones or your local dealer

snit

01-06-2004, 02:07 PM

BD, you're the best!!! Thanks so much, I'll investigate more, but I'm sure that's my problem.

corkyking

01-07-2004, 06:37 AM

First, thanks for your interest in answering our questions it is much appreciated.

175 Sport Jet questions:

Is there a device for determining fuel consumption? We'd all like to run the RPMs that give us the best return. Perhaps a vacuum guage or some other kind?

If there isn't a meter or guage what would you suggest we do to get the best fuel consumption?

What about trim tabs for lower speed plane and better fuel consumption?

If a good tune-up is the only answer then how can we tell that we have a good one?

TonTo

01-07-2004, 06:54 AM

graemlins/applause.gif the boat doc graemlins/applause.gif
ok my turn I have an older 9.8horse merc kicker motor, the mount is broken,I have a lower unit off another motor with a good mount and want to replace just the mount the other lower unit is off posibly a smaler motor since the trim is a bit smaller,but the mount is an exact match aparently the power head has to be removed to perform this swap because the linckage runs through the mount.Is this a job that could be performed fairly easy by your avg. shade tree type mechanic.I've been advised to have a shop take care of it for me do to some seals that may need replaced when I dissasemble it any input would be greatly apreciated.

Bait O' Eggs

01-07-2004, 07:55 AM

Doc - When I dont foresee running the trolling motor for more than several weeks with my early 80's honda trolling motor I usually unplug the gas line and run the motor until the motor dies from lack of gas. It seems to me that I dont want gas to be getting old in the motor, is this bad thinking or am I doing wrong? What would you recommend, run the motor dry or store with fuel in the system?

Boat Doc'

01-07-2004, 11:33 AM

corky king, there is a meter that measures fuel flow, its called Flo Scan. They are relatively expensive- in excess of 200.00. Your optimum cruising speed would be as slow as possible and still maintaining a plane. Based on my experience your consumption would be roughly 6 gallons per hour at cruising speed and up to 17 at wide open throttle. Trim tabs will lower your planing speed but in increasing the drag your throttle setting would probably increase. As for the tune if it idles well and you havn't lost any top end rpm then you have a good one. The main thing would be the condition of the pump, if you don,t plane as quickly as you did in the past or you dont have the top speed you used to have then the impeller, liner and intake should be inspected for damage or excessive clearance.

TonTo, if you are referring to the swivel bracket you should be able to change out your parts with just a few gaskets.

Bait o eggs. I would recommend running the fuel out of anything that would be sitting over 30 days, especially four strokes. We see a lot of carbs plugged with residue that is the result of evaporated fuel. The four strokes are more prone to this because the orifices are much smaller than 2 strokes

goodkarma

01-07-2004, 01:28 PM

boat doc,
I have a 93 yamaha 200 "jet drive" outboard, can I conver this to a prop drive with a new lower unit? if so, is it as simple as a new lower unit or does the linkage need to change as well?

-goodkarma

big n bright

01-07-2004, 03:48 PM

Boat Doc,

I have a 6hp Merc.(95) and I been having a little problem with it. Once the motor is warmed up and I'm cruising at full throttle, the motor will idle down so I back off and then it seems to be ok until I give it full throttle again. It doesn't seem to have a problem when I run it with the choke on but I'm guessing that's not good.

I keep the tank vent open and my fuel line has no cracks (it's new)I do notice the primer goes soft when the motor starts to idle down.

How can I fix this problem?

Thanks for reading

jetsled1

01-07-2004, 04:12 PM

Boat Doc.

I built and installed a hot water box for my boat, and installed a thermostat in the kicker, a 96
8 hp 2 stroke Merc., I want to drill and tap the water housing and install a valve for the flow of water to the box. My question is where do I drill the hole, I am thinking that if it is too low and I have the flow to my box too high I may starve the top cylinder from the cooling water. Is that an issue or should I just drill the hole as high as practical?

Thanks.
this is a great service you are doing

fishing is life

01-07-2004, 06:06 PM

Dear Mr Boat Doc,

How long will 2 cycle and fuel stabilizer by themselves last for on the shelf?

By The Way, thanks alot for taking the time to answer these problems. I hope we are not overwhelming you. I will not forget your help here. :cheers:

Boat Doc'

01-08-2004, 02:08 PM

Goog Karma, There is 7 inches difference between a pump versus a prop. You need to be 7 inches longer. What I would recommend is the installation of 5 inch spacer kit which of course leaves 2 inches left. Take it out and run it, if it doesnt cavitate excessively on acceleration and in turns then you can leave it alone. If it does see if you can get a stainless prop, that may make it acceptable. If you still are not happy with it you would need to lower the motor 1 1/2 to 2 inches. you can do this by lowering the motor- it may be necessary to notch the transom or install a jack plate which gives you the ability to vertically raise and lower the motor. They are available in both manual and hydraulic versions.
If you have a forward helm you wouldnt need to change any linkage other than moving the shift cable to its attaching point inside cowl. If you have a tiller you would have to modify the shift linkage.

big n bright, It sounds like you have some debris floating around in your float bowl. I would recommend getting a gasket kit for the carb and cleaning it thoroughly. If you still have a problem it may be the exhaust tube is plugged with carbon. You would need to pull the powerhead to chisel it out. A sign of that being the case would be if you see large exhaust bubbles coming out of the prop when idling in gear

jetsled1, When you install a thermostat on these engines the pee hole operates only as the thermostat opens and closes. If you disconnect that hose where it attaches to the thermostat housing and route it to your hot box you won't need to drill into the block. The only problem may be at low speed you won't have enough water flow to keep tank full. If that is the case you can run it hard for a couple of minutes to fill the box with hot water.

fishing is life, To my knowledge there is no expiration on additives and two cycle oil. If sitting for long periods I would shake them before using. They say that treated fuel can go bad in 6 months.

Taylor's viewpoint

01-24-2004, 07:30 PM

Boat Doc

I have a 2001 Mercury 9.9 with electric start. Sometimes when I go to start the engine it acts like there is no power at all getting to the starter. It did this to me today and I tried shifting in and out of gear to get it going to no avail. After I got the boat home it worked just fine. Any help would be appreciated.
TV

Old Coot

01-24-2004, 10:05 PM

Boat Doc:

I have a '92 Merc 40 with power tilt. One tilt switch is on the throttle handle, the other is on the side of the motor below the cowl. The switch on the motor is extremely sensitive. The lightest touch will trigger it, and sometimes it will raise and lower the motor all by itself.

As postor boy for the School for the Mechanically Declined, I am wondering whether this is a user-replaceable part? Do you have any idea what a replacement switch might run?

Thanks for all the tips you have provided.

Boat Doc'

01-26-2004, 01:43 PM

Taylors viewpoint, the first thing to check would be the battery connections. The components of the system are the battery and connections,starter switch, relay, neutral safety switch and the starter itself. Checking for power or bypassing each of these components will lead you to the problem. The most common problem is loose connections.

Old coot, The switch on the motor needs to be replaced. It is easily changed by unplugging a couple of color coded wires and remo9ving a retainer clip. Cost is about 60.00- or just disconnect it.

Grain of Salt

01-29-2004, 10:45 AM

hey boat doc
I am having troubles with a merc classic fifty from 1987 (4 cylinder) Starts ok but the second it goes into gear it just putters out, no power at all. I have had the carbs rebuilt 2 times , the fuel pump once, removed it from the main fuel tank to a remote, have good spark on all four and good compression. It has been run with the autoblend for its life and seems to get too much oil (I am removing it) and smokes alot...could I have an exhaust blockage? once in a while it will perk up and run like mad, only to go limp again on a restart. The mechanic working on it now wants to replace both carbs, but how bad can they be? he says fuel back flows out an air vent into the throat at throttle up and floods it out...could this be caused by exhaust blockage causing overpressure to the crankcase fuel pump? is there a way to check without removing the power head other then the bubble test?
thanks for any advice

[ 01-29-2004, 10:58 AM: Message edited by: BrownTrout ]

Boat Doc'

01-29-2004, 01:08 PM

Brown Trout, I have seen those motors plug with carbon. You can check by removing the lower unit and looking up inside with a flashlight. Another possible problem may be reed valves. With it in the water idling look for fuel spraying from the carbs towards the front. If that is okay you can unplug the fuelline and see if the motor runs good as it runs out of gas. If it does it would point to fuel pump diaphragm or carbs. Make sure you check for exhaust blockage and reeds first.

TillamookChinook

01-29-2004, 01:24 PM

Boat Doc,

Thanks for doing this forum.

I have a 1932 Johnson 4 hp Model A 50 that ran when I last hung it in the garage twenty years ago. Is there anything I should do to clean the old gas completely out of the system (or other maintenance task) before I put in fresh gas mixture and try to fire it up again?

I may have to press this motor back into service since my father-in-law wants his 1952 Evinrude back.

TC

Reel Premier

01-29-2004, 01:32 PM

Hey Boat Doc, I have a Merc 8hp and my problem is when I'm in gear at backtrolling speed the motor seem like it loads up, idles down then puffs out a cloud of smoke and returns to normal trolling speed. When I bought the motor new in '01, I was told it was set for warm water temps of the Willy, and I might encounter what is called "lean popping".

That statement confuses me because it would seem to me that the motor is running rich and need to be leaned out, not richend up. I have tried leaning out the screw little increments at a time, with some improvemnt, but don't want to go to far and make to lean. Any help on this would be much obliged.

chummer

01-30-2004, 11:52 AM

Boat Doc, thanks for taking the time to answer ALL of our questions, especially on those pesky sport-jet starting situations. Another thread has been started concerning 2 stroke oils. Are all TC-W3 outboard oils equal? Merc. vs yama. vs havoline vs wal-mart? They're all TC-W3 grade, But price per quart verys greatly, so what's the difference?

M.Russ1

01-30-2004, 01:04 PM

Boat Doc, I have a 97 6hp merc 2 stroke. When I use it at high rpm it sounds like the prop might be loose or or have a bad gear. I took it to a local shop and the put it in there tank and it wouldn't do it. So it sound like it is skipping a gear or something so what would cause this? It is a long shaft and it is on a 20 inch transom.

timinthegorge

01-30-2004, 02:01 PM

Boat Doc.....

I have no questions, but I LOVE this thread, and thanks so much for your participation!

I love my Alumaweld, and guess who I bought her from??

Steven's Rocks! Thanks, Tim graemlins/applause.gif

DownTime

01-30-2004, 02:12 PM

Boat Doc,
What is your opinion on aftermarket 2-cycle oil as long as it is TC-W3 NMMA rated.Do the manufacturers brands warrant the extra cost in your opinion?

Thanks,
JB

Boat Doc'

01-30-2004, 02:54 PM

Tillamook Chinook,That thing belongs in a museum! However I would attempt to start it up. If it runs good use it. If it has varnish in the tank or carb you would have to physically remove it. The points may need to be cleaned.

drifterboy, What you are describing is fairly common and can be cured by drilling out and tapping the backdraft jet on the upper port side of the carb to a 10/32 thread. Install a .048 jet in the hole and it should be fine.

Chummer and downtime, All TCW-3 oils meet or exceed there rating. The more expensive oils I am told simply have more additives for added protection. Using off brand oils will not effect your warranty, as long as they meet the TCW-3 rating.

M.Russ1, It sounds as if it is cavitating, look to see that the ventilation plate is even with or below the bottom of the boat. If you do have a gear problem it should show up in the condition of the lower unit oil. Also push in and out on the prop if it moves more than 1/2 inch or so then you have a problem with gears.

timinthe gorge, thanks for the support!

1 Smart Fish

01-30-2004, 03:14 PM

Boat Doc,

I'm having a problem with the boat. Is has a 5.0L mercruiser/ alpha 1. It was running fine 3 weeks ago but now when I try to get on a plane it sputters and back fires and will plane eventually ( spelling)... :shrug: I'm thinking it could be timing but not sure. It runs smooth in neutral and it is having trouble shifting from neutral to reverse or forward (It dies) Oh ya it is a 1988. If you could help me out it would be great.

Thanks

1sf

Boat Doc'

01-30-2004, 04:12 PM

1 Smart Fish, sounds like your accelerator pump quit working.Withe engine not runnig remove the flame arrester, hold the choke plate open. Have someone slowly move the throttle lever forward, you should see a steady stream of fuel squirting from the venturi cluster into the throttle body. If you do not you need to rebuild the carb. If you do then look at other areas such as timing. I think its the carb.

1 Smart Fish

01-30-2004, 05:30 PM

Thanks Doc

TillamookChinook

02-02-2004, 01:36 PM

Thanks Doc!!

TC

Pickles

02-15-2004, 02:36 PM

Boat Doc:

I have a question about doing the electric fuel pump mod on the 175 hp sportjet. What I am wondering is if I do this mod, isn't the oil only injected into the fuel when the engine is turning over? What I am saying is that if by prepriming the carburation on the motor, am I putting unmixed fuel into the carburators by prepriming? If so would this cause pre mature engine wear? If you could give me an answer on this I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks Fish-addict

[ 02-15-2004, 02:38 PM: Message edited by: fish-addict ]

Green Machine

02-15-2004, 07:00 PM

Great column!!!

I have a 99 Thunderjet with a Kodiak three stage pump. The previous owner had run it in sandy bottom rivers.......and I assumed this was the problem when I bought it. It is very slugish out of the hole, but goes fine on plane. (Motor revs just fine!!) I am assuming sharpen the impellors and maybe new thrust bearing?? What would something like this cost and/or can I take the impellors out and have them sharpened and re-install myself??? I am pretty mechanically inclined, but there is piece of mind to have someone do it right. What else would you replace?

Thank you
Green Machine

Pickles

02-16-2004, 01:26 PM

ttt

bullhunter29

02-16-2004, 03:22 PM

boat doc this is my problem i rebuilt my carb on my 3.0 it is a mercarb after the rebuild it starts fine runs fine when i take off it sputers and some times it will backfire then it will go i set everything to the speks that the manual said to do it says to set my timing a 1 degree before top and at 700 rpm i changed it to 8 degrees but it still is having a problem but not as bad would it be ok to advace the timing more and i am getting black smoke when i starts. the back of my boat is turning black if you can help it would be great thanks BULLHUNTER

Boat Doc'

02-16-2004, 03:59 PM

fish-Addict, Yes you are correct,they rely on residual oil in float bowl and oil that puddles in crankcase after shutdown for lubrication. No different than any other Merc engine that is oil injected and has a primer bulb. The fuel starts to get mixed as soon as the engine starts to rotate. The folks at Mercury confirmed this for me. As far as damage to engine- only if you take a freshly primed engine and immediately run it hard. Ideal warm up period would be a minimim of appproximately 1 minute.

Green Machine, I would remove the rear pump housing and measure the clearance of the impellers as you remove them. Make sure you mark them and also make sure they are facing the correct way. New they are set up with about .030 overall clearance. .015 per side. They are considered worn when they exceed .030 per side. They can be remachined and the liners are replacable. These repairs can be done without removing the driveshaft. If you wanted to replace the bearing the driveshaft has to be removed, which on most boats also means an engine pull. If memory serves me right the impellers run about 200.00 each to be remachined. You need to tell them what size you want them. I dont have the info on where tosend them at this time. Let me know if you need it and I can track it down for you. The only other thing to look at would be the cutlass bearings and also the fins on the stator housings.

Big Dog

02-16-2004, 04:15 PM

Boat Doc,
I have a 87' Sea Ray with a 350 ci and a mercruiser out drive. Yhe engine sat fo about 7 or 8 years withou running because of a dry rotted hull. (nothing wrong with motor)The engine will over heat at an idle. If I rev the boat up to 1500 rpm it will cool right down. I have put a new pump in the out drive, a new pump on the motor, and a new t/stat. What else do I need to check. I do not know what else I should replace.

Big Dog

Boat Doc'

02-16-2004, 04:34 PM

bull-hunter29, It sounds like your choke is set to tight and possibly the float level is to high and or the possibilty that you missed something when it was cleaned.If you can get me the engine serial number I can check the specs for you. You may also have to go back inside and carefully clean all passages with a peice of wire.

Bigdog, The water supply hose from the bell housing to the transom plate may be damaged. It is located on the port side of outdrive, you can see it with the drive tilted up. with it running on a hose look for water leaking in the area of the hose or for it to be kinked. If that is ok I would also recheck the water pump- make sure that the rubber grommet that seals the water tube is in place. Also look carefully at the plastic housings- if they are melted they should be replaced.

bullhunter29

02-16-2004, 05:33 PM

boat doc thanks for the info i talked to a few people today and they said that i need to time it with a shunt so iam going to pick one up in the morning and give it a try thanks

B-run

02-16-2004, 06:35 PM

Mr Boat doc. I have a 17" Willie drifter. Mounted my 8 horse Honda classic.
Trolls herring WAY too fast @ idle.
What would be the best solution?
Not really a mechanical question I know, but do you have advice on the proper trolling plate for this motor?
Not really a wind sock or bucket fan.
Thanks

Boat Doc'

02-17-2004, 02:11 PM

b-run, Happy troller makes a trolling plate that will fit your motor, the small one seems to provide adequate coverage. They run about 120.00.
There is others available, you might check with other people and see what they are using. Aso that motor should idle about 625 rpm in gear. You might check that if you are able.

fish hog1, If you have a valve by the tank close it for a minute or two then open it again. If you have hot water then you just need to regulate the flow thru the valve. If it is still cool then remove the thermostat and clean out debris or replace it. As faras the drain it seems as though it is clogged or kinked.

fishhog1

02-18-2004, 12:41 AM

boat doc, I have a 98 merc 9.9 4 stroke rigged to a factory hot pot in my 98 super vee. I did an oil change last week and now my water aint so hot. Also the pot is not draining properly out the stern and sometimes overflows in the boat. HELP! the fishhog.

Bait O' Eggs

02-23-2004, 09:01 AM

Doc
I have a 94 yamaha 115 outboard. Never had a problem with the motor in the past and have owned since new. I took the boat out right after our big freeze a month or so ago and after running it about 10 miles the motor dies. I find the problem to be an inline 30 amp fuse under the cowling between the battery and the motor. The fuse was not blown but rather the glass was cracked and the fuse just pulled apart. :whazzup: I thought maybe their was some moisture next to the fuse and the week of freezing weather cracked the glass :shrug:

I have had the boat out a couple times with no problems.

Yesterday the same fuse blew on the river after running a couple miles. :shrug: Any idea what might cause the fuse to blow. Fluke deal, or a short or ??? I didnt know I had a fuse there until it pulled apart the first time.

Stuck a new fuse in and it ran fine again. :shrug:

Boat Doc'

02-23-2004, 10:11 AM

Bait o eggs, normally the problem you are seeing is caused by dirty or loose battery connections. I would remove and clean battery connections and tighten them with pliers. Also check engine battery cable connections the same way. Also remove fuse and inspect fuse holder for corrosion or melting and clean or replace as necessary.

Bait O' Eggs

02-23-2004, 10:13 AM

Thanks Doc, I just put a new battery in a few months ago, maybe I didnt get the cables tight, :whazzup: I will check that end.

Thanks

Boat Doc'

02-23-2004, 01:35 PM

Pete, As long as no alarms are sounding I would run it until the break-in period is up. Break-in is 120 minutes above 3000 rpm. Clock doesnt run below that.It sounds like you have a fouled plug but you might as well get off break-in to deal with it as it may do it again.

Wreckless

02-23-2004, 03:12 PM

First of all, THANKS for all the helpful information.
My Question is: I have an 86 Yamaha 150 pump....and the other day someone asked my when the last time I had the impeller "shimmed". I know it's been 6 or 8 years....is it time? It runs great and seems to have plenty of power, maybe a little loss out of the hole, but not a problem...Is this a "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" or do I need to have it done?...or can I do it?

Thanks, Dennis

Rippenlips

02-23-2004, 08:10 PM

THis is great. My question is when I idle my outboard for a long period of time like ten minutes it will start to run out of fuel. I can speeze the bulb and it will be ok for another ten minutes. I changed the fuel pump, fuel filter and checked the pick up in the tank. It is a 95 150hp Merc. It runs great at any other time and starts great to. Some one said the the compression could be low and this could cause the fuel pump not to work as good at idle. The compression was good.
Thanks for the info.
Jon T

Seefood Man

02-24-2004, 12:53 AM

Hi Doc; got to run up my new 225 opti max for the second day yesterday and there is a pretty good miss at the 3000 to 3500 rpm range, but it is really pronounced right 3200. The motor has about 6 hours on it and was told to get at least 10 on it before I bring it in. I just don't want the heads running hot on me. BTW I'm running Texaco 89 octaine. What your opinion. Thanks Pete

Boat Doc'

02-24-2004, 09:35 AM

Dennis, If it ain't broke don't fix it is good advice, however a little preventative maintenance can prevent a sudden loss of thrust that may leave you aways from the boat ramp. Visually inspect the liner- the sleeve that the impeller rides in for pits. They can act like a anode and corrode away. Replace it if necessary. The symptoms of the impeller needing to be shimmed or sharpened would be slower planing time and an increase in rpm on acceleration and top end. We set them up for .010 to .015 clearance and sharpen the leading edge of the impeller from top to bottom - so it pulls water up instead of pushing it down. This is stuff you can easily do yourself. Note; the impeller may be stuck to the shaft, if so you would have to apply heat to remove it.

Jon t. It sounds like you covered everythig but the primer bulb. It has check valves inside to prevent the fuel from runnig out of the line at low speed. I would replace it and make sure that it is pointing upward, not laying flat or pointing downhill.

02-24-2004, 10:08 AM

Boat Doc,

Thanks for all the help. I have a 1984 70hp 2-stroke Yamaha. Good compression and runs like a champ but I notice at idle it sometimes "backfires". I don't know if "backfire" is the right choice of description but something between a backfire and a miss. The engine usually continues running like nothing happened but occasionally when at low idle, the "backfire" causes the engine to quit. The motor always easily restarts. Other than this, the engine runs flawlessly. Any ideas on cause of something like this? Is it safe to continue ignoring it? I've changed spark plugs a couple of times(they have always looked nice and clean) so I doubt that is it. Thanks for your advice.

Rippenlips

02-24-2004, 08:08 PM

Boat Doc, I did replace the bulb. That was the first thing. I forgot, its been a couple years that I have been dealing with this. What about the line going to the tank in the front of the boat? 20' sled,when it happens I can hear the engine start to run funny and I just have to squeeze the bulb and it is good again. They said that it had good compression. If it was low would it cause this problem? I can check it myself. Just need the specs. Hot or cold? throttle open or closed? Thanks for the tips.

Jon T

Rippenlips

02-25-2004, 01:41 PM

Boat Doc, when I first got the boat the top of the resevoir on the engine was cracked and I replaced it and have had no other issues. I wouldn't know if it was not full unless I ran with out the top on the engine. I hope it has been staying full. When I replaced the resevoir I tried to see if the low oil buzzer was working but I didn't know the system. When I checked the screen in the tank the rubber line was a little loose going into the tank. I haven't ran the boat since I tightened it. Thanks Again.

Jon T

Boat Doc'

02-25-2004, 02:18 PM

Jon T. It was just a thought, the oil tank uses crankcase pressure to pressurize the onboard tank which forces oil to the tank on the engine. The horn should sound when it gets about 1/3 empty if it is functioning.

Boatdog

02-25-2004, 02:37 PM

BoatDoc - great service you provide here. :cheers:
I own a '98 17' Stryker, 75 hp Merc outboard prop, purchased it from your fine establishment, and one question I have not been able to find the answer on is.........How many gallons of fuel does the tank hold? The tank is under the deck. I can't find this info in my manuals, paperwork, or on your website.
Thanks!

Boat Doc'

02-25-2004, 03:58 PM

Boatdog, my book says 18 gallon

timinthegorge

02-25-2004, 04:36 PM

Boat Doc.... I don't have a Big problem, but it's irritating! I have an '03 90hp Merc 2stroke O/I for my big motor, and on cold mornings, she'll start and die several times before she runs properly. And then she'll run all day without a problem..... I always push in the key for 10 seconds, before turning the switch, after making sure the bulb is hard.

Any advice BD?

blacktail519

02-25-2004, 05:06 PM

Hey there Boat doc,
I have a simple question here>>>> I have a 2002 Intruder, and my gas guage is not working??? It always reads full!! Is there a fuse or something causing this problem?? Thanks in advance,, Todd

bighugetrout

02-25-2004, 07:20 PM

Hi Boat Doc,
I have a '98 Merc 65 jet outboard and wondered if I need to have the impeller sharpened. I looked and noticed some nicks on the blades. Thanks.

Costalot

02-25-2004, 08:14 PM

backtail
I had a similar problem with my intruder. Remove the screw in cover an the rear deck and inspect the wire's leading to the fuel gauge. Both should be tight.

Boat Doc'

02-26-2004, 12:13 AM

ET, try unscrewing each of the idle mixture screws 1/8 of a turn at a time and see if the problem goes away. If you open them 1 full turn and the problem is still there then you would need to rebuild the carbs. It won't hurt anything to do nothing other than the aggravation it causes.

Jon T, compression should be close to equal and around 100 psi. Throttle can be closed on 2 strokes. If compression is ok then recheck everything else you did especially the primer bulb in that the engine end is pointing up hill so the check valves seat. If you have access to a vacuum gauge you can do the following. Tee the vacuum gauge into fuel pump pulse hose, its the one that attaches to the back of fuel pump. Start engine at idle and pinch off fuel supply line. You should see a minimum vacuum of 2.5 inches. If you dont then either the fuel pump is bad or there isnt enough crankcase pressure to operate it. Next tee the fuel supply line and look for 2.5 inches or less. If you have more you need to find the restriction. Lastly hook up a clear hose and check for air. If you have air bubbles you need to eliminate the source. Good luck. Doc

Boat Doc'

02-26-2004, 12:29 AM

Jon T. One last thing. Do you have any problems with oil tank on engine staying full?

Boat Doc'

02-26-2004, 01:01 PM

timinthegorge, you need to choke it as soon as it starts to die. It may need to be choked 2-3 times before it warms up enough to stay running. Another thing to try is to choke while cranking and continue choking after it starts, keep choking it till it almost dies.

Todd, Assuming you have the gauge turned on- they are normally wired to the nav lites,access the sender and ground the the center post of the sender. The gauge should peg itself to full. If it doesnt there is a wiring issue between the sender and gauge. If it does Remove and adjust or replace the sender. Some of those fuel tanks are plastic and they can collapse in the center. You would probably have to lift the floor to confirm.Lastly those tanks are about 4 inches deep and 6 feet long, the boat has to be level to read right.

big huge trout,All nicks should be removed and leading edges sharpened. Also check the shimming, look for .010 to .015 clearance and adjust as necessary

bighugetrout

02-26-2004, 03:29 PM

Thanks for the reply Boat Doc. Since I'm a new owner, I've never sharpened the impeller and don't know what the shim thingy is. What would it cost me to have it taken care of at the shop? Thanks again.

Boat Doc'

02-27-2004, 02:10 PM

Bighugetrout, would run around 60-100, it is easy to do, if you came by we could show you on parts we have here.

Just Fish

02-27-2004, 07:13 PM

Boat Doc I have a smoker craft ospray 17 that I bought from your store it has a 50 horse merc on it after the fall silver fishing I just tarped it up and it got real cold this winter is there any problems that I might expect when I fire it up in a week or two is there any thing I should do before I start it.I went out and pulled the plug and a lot of water came out.

Boat Doc'

03-01-2004, 01:25 PM

Justfish, There is nothing to do at this time other than charge your battery and run it. You may want to change the gear oil, change fuel filters, spark plugs, replace water pump and lube everything. Ideally you would do all the above prior to storage.

fishchaser

03-01-2004, 01:30 PM

Boat Doc... I have a '90 8 Horse Merc trolling motor that wont stay running. If I prime it it will start right up, but once it is started and the choke pushed in, it starts to die. I can keep it running if I am fast enough, to pull out the choke, or give more gas.

I have tried to run it at a higher idle speed, and tried to adjust the mixture. I also checked the primer ball and the fuel filter and the resevoir. All signs show I am getting fuel.

Could it be a clogged jet? and how do I fix that?
Can you make the instructions clear enough so a woman can understand them? I have to do this myself, I'm shy of money right now.
Fishchaser

[ 03-01-2004, 01:34 PM: Message edited by: fishchaser ]

Phil Layer

03-01-2004, 02:28 PM

Boat Doc,

I want to replace the carb on my 2.3L OMC inboard.

A carb shop is trying to sell me a car carb but I think marine carbs may be a bit different. I heard marine carbs have different floats.

Anything else different between a marine carb and one for a car?

Thanks in advance.

Boat Doc'

03-01-2004, 03:02 PM

fishchaser, sounds like the idle circuit is plugged. You can try removing the idle mixture screw and blowing air or something pressurized - carb cleaner, wd40 or? into the hole. Reinstall the jet and adjust it 2 turns out from a lightly seated position. Run it hard for a few minutes and see if it works. If it still doesnt work you need to remove carb and disassemble and clean it thoroughly. This is done by removing the fast idle linkage from the front and then unbolt the carb and take it apart. It sounds complicated but its not.

Phil Layer, You must use a marine carb. Differences are the lack of vacuum ports for auto accessorys and more importantly the marine carb vents into the throttle body instead of externally.

Killertraylor

03-01-2004, 05:31 PM

Hi Boat Doc. I have an 01 Yamaha 250 Saltwater series with a prop. I took it in to a mechanic last fall to have the cavitation plate fixed (it was cracked from hitting a log) and they took the lower unit off and fixed it.

I was using the boat recently, running at cruising speed and the motor shut down completely and would not go into gear. I was able to restart it on the second try, but it sounded bad and wouldn't shift. Took it in to the mechanic today and he admitted he forgot to put oil back in the lower unit and it seized up. He said he'd order a new lower unit for me and fix it for free.

My question is - is it possible that it damaged the engine or any other part of the motor by running it without gear oil in it? When it started up again could it have damaged the drive shaft? I'm thinking about getting a new motor (going to a 4 stroke) but wanted to know if I have anything to worry about if I keep the old motor?

Oh - and this is a very good and reputable mechanic, he just made an honest mistake.

[ 03-02-2004, 08:21 AM: Message edited by: Killertraylor ]

Cosmic Lazy Susan

03-01-2004, 05:47 PM

Dear Boat Doc,

I've got a new 2004 15hp Merc Four Stroke on a 15' Smokercraft Alaskan. I'm 2 1/2 hours into the break in. The motor starts missing and cutting out at 3/4 throttle, starts gradually and gets worse as you increase throttle. I would guess my boat speed is in the high teens to twenty when it happens. Is there any chance it's hitting the rev limiter? Someone else suggested it may be a lean miss.

As I'm in Hood River it's not easy to get it to Stevens Marine. Is there a jet adjustment I can make if it is a lean miss and how would I do that? Pulling the cover off and looking at the carb I don't see any obvious jet screws.

Thanks,
Dale

Boat Doc'

03-02-2004, 11:32 AM

killertrayler. If there was damage to the drive shaft you would probably see the splines twisted. I would expect the damage is confined to the gearcase and there shouldn't be any other problems.

Dale, I would agree that you are bumping the rev limiter. A larger pitch prop should cure the problem.

moman

03-02-2004, 02:03 PM

Doc, my father in law recently backed in the drive with the kicker down and proceeded to rip the lower unit nearly off the head. It was a '89 or 90 Mercury 5-hp in excellent working condition, low hours. I took it to the local boat shop and was told, its worth nothing, leave it here with us if you want. Later, I heard about Outboard Salvage and some other salvage dealers and wonder: should I get my head back or was it really worthless; what would the cost for a used lower head and installation run (in round #'s of course). Thanks

backlash

03-07-2004, 08:47 PM

Doc,
I have a '96 9.9 Merc 4 stroke. As of last fall it started what seemed like overheating. The boat has a hot water box. After about 4 to 5 hrs of trolling it starts to steam and spit very little water into the basin. Does this sound like thermostat, if so where the heck is it and what is it's replacement? Any other possibilities? Thanks for your help in advance.

corkyking

03-07-2004, 10:12 PM

Corkyking again:

I haven't been able to use the boat (2001 Al Intruder 175 SJ) since August. I put some Sta-Bil in it in Sept. and have fired and idled it a couple of times this winter.

I'm thinking that I should change the fuel filter before I fire it again. Yes? How often should that filter (the one bolted to the transom) be changed? Is there anything else that I should change before I operate it again??

Boat Doc'

03-09-2004, 12:30 AM

moman, Cost will very greatly depending on what is broke. normally the swivel bracket breaks, you would be looking about 300.00 installed. Used parts may be available at least half of new.

Backlash, It sounds more like the water pump. You should inspect it also. The thermostat is located on top of the block at the rear

corkyking, the fuel filters should be changed at least annually. Also the gear oil should be changed annually also. Spark plugs should be changed around 300 hours

Downlake

03-09-2004, 03:57 PM

Boat Doc,
Thanks for taking your time to answer all these questions.
A two part question. I recently installed a fuel flow meter and instructions said to have 3/8 fuel line into and out from the fuel flow transducer. This I did however, all the other fuel lines are 5/16. Will this cause any back pressure or any other problems. It also suggest that the meter be installed to the ignition switch of my 115 Yamaha 4 stroke. Is this something that is easily accomplished? If so how?
Thank you again for your time.
Downlake

WillFish

03-09-2004, 07:58 PM

Boat Doc,

I've operated several (2) newer ('96&2000) 50 HP Merc 2-strokes both of which had a harsh vibration at about 3/4 throttle. Back off on the throttle and they smooth right out, or keep opening it up and they smooth out also. They seemed to idle and run just fine other than that vibration at 3/4 open.

Is this just a characteristic of this particular motor or does it indicate something that needs attention?

P.S.-Thanks a bunch for doing this "Boat Doc Forum". It is much appreciated.

[ 03-09-2004, 08:01 PM: Message edited by: WillFish ]

Boat Doc'

03-10-2004, 03:19 PM

Cast N' Blast, Could be one of a few minor problems. With the cover off locate the enrichener valve. If you push in on the key you will here it click. Look for fuel leaks from the hoses that go to it when activated and repair as necessary. If you don't hear it click make sure the wires are attached. If it still doesn't work check for voltage to it. most common problems in order are, split hoses, wires not hooked up, bad ignition switch and enrichener itself. Warning horn could be going bad which is why it isn't as loud or key switch could cause it also.

Boat Doc'

03-11-2004, 12:14 AM

Downlake, I would check with the manufacturer on recommended hose size. I did check with Flo Scan and they use a 1/4 pipe fitting of whatever hose size you have. Doesn't matter if its 1/4, 5/16 or 3/8. As far as power supply you can wire it to an accessory switch, you just need to remember to turn it on and off and have currect amperage fuse installed.

Boat Doc'

03-11-2004, 12:22 AM

WillFish, It is common to have a transition area where the carbs are going from low to high speed circuits. You can check the synchronization of the throttle linkage and spark advance but it will always be there to some degree. You can go a little slower or a little faster and it will go away. It doesnt hurt anything.

Cast'n'Blast

03-11-2004, 12:27 AM

Boatdoc, I've got a 115horse80jet tiller handle on an Alumaweld purchased in '96 or '97 from Stevens. I recently had some carb work done on it and that fixed a problem I was having when up to speed but it is real hard starting like it isn't getting primed. One other thing to note is that when the key turns to prime position it is only a faint "beep" now compared to what it used to be when it seemed to be priming right. Is there an easy fix or is there another problem you see? Thanks.

Conspiracy Theory

03-13-2004, 10:51 PM

Thanks for doing this. It's great.

Sorry for the long post below.

I have a 94 Bayliner 1950 Classic with a 3.0liter Mercruiser. Not the LX. I also have a 2003 8hp Yamaha 4stroke kicker. I have installed a water filter on the main fuel line from the below deck tank to the main engine. I have also installed a second fuel line off the filter to the kicker. On the line to the kicker I also installed a anti-siphon valve at the filter. The fuel line to the kicker, because of how I routed it, is about 8ft. long. Then I have the bulb, about 1ft of hose then the male fuel line connector. All that is 3/8 fuel hose. Then I have a female connector, a 5/16 fuel line then the female connector that connects to the engine. The 5/16 line is approx. 18" long.

My problem is I cannot get the bulb to pump up, not even firm. Even after pumping on it for more then 10 minutes. Also when I run the kicker at anything more than about 1/3 throttle for more than a minute or two the kicker will almost die due to fuel starvation and it sucks the bulb flat. I can keep the engine running by throttling back and feathering the throttle until it recovers. If I keep the throttle less than 1/3 it runs great but it sucks the bulb to almost flat.

My guess is I have too long of a line. Originally I had 6 feet of 5/16 hose and the bulb line diameter was 5/16 also. I have installed a new bulb with bigger line diameter and the shorter 51/6 line mentioned above but that did not fix the problem.

Can I install and in-line electric fuel pump between the filter and the kicker? I am thinking of one for an older import type vehicle that still had carbs. This way the pressure the pump produced should be low enough. And I could put in a pressure regulator between the pump and the kicker if needed.

Or do you have another solution. I can't really shorten the fuel line length because of where I have to run the line through the engine compartment to where the kicker is. I am looking into a through hull fitting that way I might be able to remove about 2 to 3 feet of line length but I don't think that will fix it either.

Thanks for any suggestions you can give.

Again sorry for the really long post.

Nalu

03-14-2004, 09:59 AM

Great info! Here's my question:

I have twin 1992 Yamaha 200's. I recently had the powerhead off of the starboard motor to have the shift rod replaced. Engine runs and shifts great. Problem is the engine is now pulling oil out of the reservoir under the cowling, not out of the main reservoir on the boat. Once the reservoir under the cowling gets low, I get the alarm. (about 20 miles of running) I've checked for kinks and can't find any.

Does this motor use a oil pump, or just vacuum? Airlock? Suggestions to get it pulling oil from the main reservoir?

Thanks in advance.

prawnman

03-14-2004, 10:53 AM

i was given a 15hp johnson 1992 never been started ever. what should i do to break it in...change gear lube? plugs? etc.....what size boat will this motor push to plane? thanks for any help

foursalt

03-15-2004, 12:27 AM

[ 03-15-2004, 01:12 AM: Message edited by: foursalt ]

foursalt

03-15-2004, 01:10 AM

Boat Doc I have a 92 8hp mer. The gear lube has
water mixed in,lower seal is bad I think.
Can I replace,if I can how.
I'm sure there's seals on the top too.
I think I should replace them too.
Do you carry the parts.
If I can't do it
can I just pull off the lower unit
and bring it in to be fixed.how must $.
thank you for the help. :sick: :shrug:

Chrome Bumper

03-15-2004, 10:08 AM

My kicker is a 20 hp Johnson '94 and it gets water in the lube fairly quick. Same questions as four salt, what manual to use? I am fair with a wrench, just slow.

Boat Doc'

03-15-2004, 01:23 PM

Conspiracy Theory, first you need to get rid of the check valve on the filter. There is already one on the fuel tank unless it was removed. If that doesn't work you need to find a restriction that is located between the primer bulb and the fuel tank. Electric fuel pump shouln't be necessary but if you do install one regulate it to 3 psi. Be careful to use a Coast Guard approved pump.

Nalu, the oil is supplied to the engine tank by a electric pump. Double check the wiring, I would guess it was disconnected and not hooked back up.

Prawnman, I would double mix the oil for the first tank and vary your throttle settings about every ten minutes avoiding sustained full throttle for the first tank of fuel. Also check gear oil to make sure it is full. When you first start it make sure it isn't overheating.You can wait on fluid and plug changes until around 100 hrs. or annually.

Four Salt, If it is leaking out of the lower seal you need a special tool. We stock common parts. If you brought the lower in expect to pay about 100.00 to replace one or two seals. We would normally pressure test the unit and replace only the seal that is leaking instead of all of them.

Chrome Bumper, The after market manuals should give you adequate info on changing your seals. We don,t have access to parts for those motors. Try Staffs or?

NWRedside

03-15-2004, 02:47 PM

Boat doc:

I've got a 94 6hp yamaha kicker that I recently purchased. The guy I bought it from said that he just had a new water pump installed. I've noticed that it only puts out cold water, even if I've been trolling for over an hour. Is this a sign of a bad thermostat? Reason I noticed it was because I was thinking about running the water to a tank, but cold water wasn't exactly what I had in mind....
thanks

Boat Doc'

03-15-2004, 03:50 PM

NWRedside, The discharge water would normally be cold. To get hot water you would have to get it off the block. There should be an anode that screws into the block. Remove the zinc and drill and tap the plug.

Conspiracy Theory

03-15-2004, 11:51 PM

Boat Doc,
The reason I placed a anti-syphon valve at the filter on the kicker line was so when the main engine is running it would not suck the fuel out of the kicker line. From the tank to the filter they share the same main line. This was suggested by Brown's Landing when I purchased the kicker.

So I guess I am asking - I don't need the anti-syphon valve on the kicker fuel line or is this just for testing?

Thanks again for doing this help thread.

Boat Doc'

03-16-2004, 09:24 AM

Conspiracy Theory,The primer bulb has check valves in it that will prevent the big motor from pulling fuel from the troller. The primer bulb must be pointing at a uphill angle as the check valves are not spring loaded. With the check valve on the water seperator you are creating more vacuum than the motor can overcome.
The only problem you may run into is the trolling motor drawing from the main engine and running out of gas. To cure that you would install a check valve between the water seperator and the main engine. The main engine can handle the extra vacuum the troller cannot. If the primer still goes flat you may still have a restriction that needs to be identified. Hope this answers your questions.

Fisherman87

03-16-2004, 11:23 AM

Boat Doc,
I've got a 90H Evinrude that has died on me again. This is the second time in 2 years that a ring on one of the pistons has blown and damaged the cylinder wall. It's an older model and will cost me another couple grand to repair if I decide to. Should I just bag this motor and get a new one and if so is there anything I can get for the old dead one? Also is there something that I might be doing wrong or is it just life. It is a two stroke so I thought maybe I'm not doing the mixture right or something?

Heliarc Runner

03-16-2004, 11:48 AM

Boat Doc

I have a 23' Heliarc sled with a 454 and an American Turbin pump. This boat is made by Ernnie Duckworth after he sold out maybe you are familar with this. Anyway, after putting accesories and on back of boat, kicker, cooler, extra battery, etc., the boat doesn't plane as quickley. It also tends to porpoise and not stay on plane as well as before. What do you suggest? trim tabs of some sort?

Thanks

Boat Doc'

03-16-2004, 03:46 PM

Fisherman87, what you are describing isn't that uncommon for any brand of older engine. What usually happens is the piston ring locating pin falls out allowing the ring to rotate and catch on a port or detonation from an engine designed to run on 80's fuel trying run on todays reformulated gasoline. Thats the reason todays outboards typically are higher displacement with lower compression ratios to have the same power. I would recommend replacement mainly because everything but the new parts you rebuild with are going to fail sooner than later.

Heliarc Runner, Best thing for you to do is go with hydraulic trim tabs, that way you can adjust boat attitude for various sea conditions and weight distribution.

Chillybones, sounds like you need to richen up the carbs a hair, try backing out the mixture screws 1/8 turn and maybe increase the idle speed a little. If you have a tach your looking for around 700 rpm in gear.

Jen, thanks for the kind words. Everything A-OK on my end. How about you, any requests?

swampy

03-16-2004, 04:30 PM

Boat Doc... My 350 chev with a 4-barrel Holley dies when I go to neutral.. everytime !!! It's a jet and so as neutral as I can get ..idle adjustment or time for a rebuild !?! thx much !!!!!!!

chillybones

03-16-2004, 06:40 PM

b.d. thank you very much. i don't know how anyone else feels ,but as for me "you da man". i know how much time ansewering all the posts must take!! graemlins/program.gif c.b. :cheers:

[ 03-16-2004, 06:41 PM: Message edited by: chillybones ]

Conspiracy Theory

03-17-2004, 12:04 AM

I wanted to thank BoatDoc and Stevens Marine again and yes Jennie I think this is a great idea very worthy of placement on the front page of Ifish.

Boat Doc, yes it answers my questions and thanks for the help. I haven't had the opportunity to try it yet but I will soon.

chillybones

03-17-2004, 12:31 AM

boat doc, i have a 85 hp force outboard , starts and runs great once its warm. however sometimes even when warm ,as i go from nutral to forward ,a chug and then dies. starts up ok , but it's like i have to try and sneak it into gear. any ideas? thanks chillybones :bowdown:

[ 03-16-2004, 12:32 PM: Message edited by: chillybones ]

Jennie@ifish

03-17-2004, 12:32 AM

By the way, I have declared the "dear boat doc" a resounding success!
Do you have any suggestions to make it better?
If you ever lose the thread, go to the front page of ifish, and click on it. I thought it worthy of front page mention. Don't you? I think it's awesome! :smile:

Thanks, Stevens!

Jen

ArrahWanna84

03-17-2004, 08:27 AM

Boat Doc -- I have a '99 Merc 40 (4 stroke) The problem is when I am running 3/4 to full throttle for a few minutes and then back off to slow down, it just cuts out and stalls. It seems to happen only when I cut back fast and then it starts right back up. Any ideas? Thanks AW

Trout Tako

03-17-2004, 10:55 AM

Boat Doc - Great to have you aboard. I have a quick question for you. I have a '99 North river sport jet & as of late the transducer for the depth finder has been acting up. During the summer I keep it moored in the Willammette & I pull it out in the winter. It began acting up when I put it back in the water to chase some sturge earlier this month and now I cant get a reading at all. It began by tripping off at high speed & then just quit reading at all. I have reached back there & flipped it up & down but no luck. When I pulled it out of the water It registered 1.1' - Go figure. All of the other functions on the fish finder work well. The type of Finder is a Lowrance.

Does it need to be replaced & if so how do I go about doing that? Could it have been damaged by the cold weather this winter? - I keep it covered but not heated. Would a small amount of alge build up or a few small barnicles send it out of whack?

Thank you for your help,

Tako

Trout Tako

03-17-2004, 10:56 AM

STGRule

03-19-2004, 01:19 PM

<font color="red"> Copy from the old board </font>

Posted by Boat Doc' (Member # 6426) on 03-19-2004, 09:57 AM:

Swampy, Assuming the engine is in good mechanical condition and the points- if equipted and timing are set correctly check the mixture adjustments and idle speed around 700 rpm. If it still does it then you probably need a carb overhaul

Arrah Wanna84, there is some adjustments that could be checked by a dealer such as dash pot adjustment, carb balance and idle speed. You might save several bucks by trying to decelerate slowly.

Trout Tako, I would guess the transducer but check with Lowrance at 1-800-324-1356 M-F 8 - 5 central. They are really good at trouble shooting there product

GWB

03-19-2004, 04:04 PM

Boat Doc,

I was just in a friends Rogue Marine boat and he is able to start his sport jet in forward and reverse not just nuetral like my Intruder is set up to do. Can my controls be modified to do this as well? The engine in my intruder also dies intermitantly when warm when moving from forward to reverse or just into nuetral from idle. Any Ideas?

My boat is a 2000 Alumaweld Intruder with a 175hp sport jet.

Thanks,
GWB

Boat Doc'

03-22-2004, 09:28 AM

Great White Buffaloe, There is a neutral safety switch that must be hooked up to prevent the motor from starting in gear. It is NOT recommended to bypass it. With it not hooked up it will start in any gear at any throttle setting. So far as dieing when shifted I would guess the idle speed is to slow. You should see around 1100 rpm.

Reel Premier

03-22-2004, 01:16 PM

Hey Boat Doc, are you at the Tigard, or Millwaukie shop? I wanted to bring my boat in for some work on my kicker, and a wash down pump install. I also would like to get your name. If you want to remain anonymous, feel free to e-mail or PM me.

Thanks, John. :cool:

Swim Shady

03-22-2004, 01:31 PM

Boat Doc,
I have Custom Weld with ATJ 312 Pump. It's a single lever with Best Reverse. Reverse thrust is poor to say the least. Heard about the Xstream bucket that is made for the ATJ309, can it be used on the 312 and is the thrust better? Is their much advantage in changing bucket? Thanks in advance for your response.

Zodiac-Fisherman

03-22-2004, 09:28 PM

Today I took my Zodiac out, i have a 1999 Yamie 15hp. Its a tiller handle model. When i shifted the gear to "forward" the handle on the tiller wouldnt turn past half throttle.. So basically i had to troll all day, whioch i dont mind, but it would be nice to be able to go fast again. heh... I noticed whenever I would pull start thee engine, the rope would able to be pulled, and if i were to shift the gears in "forward" position then i wouldnt be able to pull the "pull start" rope. but now i am able to pull the rope, and cant go past half throttle.
Basically the engine still "thinks" its in nuetral.. Even when i shift the gear to "forward"
Hopefully someone can help me out here, i wanna get a springer, this spring break. I dont want to have to get it professionally fixed

Thank you, and Tight lines, Dylan

Boat Doc'

03-23-2004, 10:26 AM

John, You can catch me at the Tigard location. Just drop me a line and ask for the boat doc. By the way, it doesnt look like your e-mail info is set up.

Boat Doc'

03-23-2004, 10:43 AM

Swim Shady, They currently make a kit for your pump that includes a dual lever shifter with cable and bucket. They run about 1200.00. They are working on a kit for your control that would run about half that. Projected availability is June or July.

Boat Doc'

03-23-2004, 11:08 AM

Dylan, I am not that familiar with that model, however there has to be some mechanical linkage that has slipped or come loose. If you can't see it then you would probably have to take it to a dealer. Or try the discussion board and see if any body else has experienced the problem

PlugnAway

03-24-2004, 01:18 AM

Boat Doc,

I have a 93 18' Alumaweld Intruder (from Stevens) that the fuel sensor/gauge assemblies are tied into the navigation lights. I'm told this was standard...at least for this year. The fuel gauge doesn't work, although everything else on that circuit/switch seems to work okay. It acts like a dead short (pegs out bellow empty) no matter the tank level. I've replaced or cleaned any corroded connections, with no results. My guess would be that the fuel tank sensor assembly itself is bad, but am tempted to just replace both sensor and switch.

-Would you suggest replacing both switch and sensor?
-Is that a fairly commonly replaced part(s)?
-It would appear fairly simple to switch out the level sensor, but would like your opinion on that please?
-If you agree, is it best I bring in the old unit(s) to match it up? or does a phone call typically do the job on ordering the replacement sensor and switch?

thank you for helping us all!
I assure you, we appreciate it. :applause:

id. painter

03-24-2004, 09:52 AM

Mr Boat Doctor.
I have a serious question about my 150 hp. Optimax.
I posted the question on the ifish community forum and again on the Salty dogs ,, I just got the link to this thread.
If you can read the Question from the other forums and give a reply it would be great. Thanks much. Chris

Boat Doc'

03-24-2004, 10:37 AM

PlugnAway, the sender is the most common component to fail, if you let us know the depth of the tank we can fix you up over the phone. The way to check it is to turn on the power to the gauge. jump between the sender wire and ground wire post on the tank. The gauge should peg itself. If it does the sender is bad or misadjusted. If it doesnt then the wiring or gauge is haywire. Make certain you do NOT apply power to the sender wire!

Boat Doc'

03-24-2004, 10:45 AM

Chris, there is a few things that could cause rpm loss and a solid horn. Make sure you fix the problem before you run it.
overheat- water pump
overspeed-prop hub or under propped
air compresser overheat- plugged water supply to compresser
low water pressure-water pump
engine oil reservoir at critical level- refill and verify supply

Hope this helps, check the above if you dont find the problem you would have to take it to a dealer, they or we have the computer to hook up for pinpoint diagnostics

id. painter

03-24-2004, 12:04 PM

Thanks so much. At least I have a solid list of things to look at . I will take it to the dealer and have the guys there check it. I will mention the exact items you list and go from there.
I did continue to run it after this happened . I hope I didnt hurt it ? The alarm was off and seemed to run great. :whazzup: id. p.

Trout Tako

03-24-2004, 12:32 PM

Thanks for the Tip Boat Doc - Sturge are tough to chace when you can't find the holes!

CHOSENBOY

03-24-2004, 01:04 PM

Hey boat doc' does stevens have manuels for Hamilton Jets. My 23.5" alumaweld has begun to leak from the pump. The transom seal seams to be okay, but the inner seal/gasket leaks. This should be cake to fix...the other question is can I get a gasket from you. I doubt the gasket is bad so another question is...are there certain silicone's to use. Thanks for taking to time to answer all of our questions. Matthew Sallee :smile:

PlugnAway

03-24-2004, 04:52 PM

Boat Doc, Thank you VERY much! :smile:

Boat Doc'

03-25-2004, 09:40 AM

Matt, we don't stock manuals but can get them in a day, they run about 35 bucks. Call our guys in parts with a pump model and they can get you one.

fish Addict80

03-27-2004, 05:17 PM

Hi, Boat Doc. I have a 1975 50hp Mercury and it runs well but is a hard starter most of the time. Some times it starts really easy after it is warm and sometimes it will die when at idle and then be very difficult to start again. I changed the spark plugs a while back and that helped for a little while. Last time I had a hard time starting it I took out the plugs to look at them and they seem to get alot of gunk built up on them. They look like they were coated with tar. I usually clean them with a rag and a piece of steel wool but they always end up coated again. I always use good 2-cycle oil in the correct mix. I was wondering if maybe the carb mixture is too rich or should I cut down on the amount of 2-cycle oil in the gas. I think I read that some place. Anyway I thought the fouled plugs might be the reason(or byproduct)for the hard starting and dieing in idle. All help is appreciated.

Thanks,

Luke

Boat Doc'

03-29-2004, 09:49 AM

Luke, Assuming the compression is good and you have good spark try adjusting the carbs- screw the needle in till it starts to die then back it till it runs smooth then open another 1/8 turn. If it bogs on acceleration you need to open it up till it quits. If it is still to rich look for leaking fuel pump diaphram,leaking needle and seat and less common plugged exhaust tube or bad reeds. I would not recommend reducing the oil from 50:1.

Seefood Man

04-03-2004, 09:31 AM

Boat Doc'

04-05-2004, 03:42 PM

SeeFood Man; I'm most concerned with the apparent lack of hours. 16 is'nt near enough. I have no choice but to prescribe at least 3 days a week on the water. Just let everybody concerned know I said it was ok.

Doc'

spinifera

04-07-2004, 01:01 PM

Thanks Boat Doc and Stevens Marine! This is outstanding! :applause:

I have a 1968 Merc 650 and I’m interested in some trolling. Can I put a trolling plate on without damaging the motor? I’ve heard that idling larger 2-strokes for extended periods is bad. Thanks in advance. Cheers - Spine

Zodiac-Fisherman

04-07-2004, 01:32 PM

Boat Doc,

I still havent been able to fix my outboard. Could you let me know what kind of prices i would be looking at if i brought my engine in to have it fixed by one of your guys. As you probably remember, i have not able to rev any higher than idle in the forward gear. Any college student discount would be gladly accepted. Just kiddin, I just want to get out on the water!... And get some springer blood onto the deck of my Zodiac.
Tight Lines, Dylan

Boat Doc'

04-07-2004, 03:34 PM

Spine, It should be fine, the most extended idling might do is cause a carbon build up but if you run it at higher speeds back to the dock it should be ok.

Boat Doc'

04-07-2004, 03:38 PM

Dylan, sorry but we do not service Yamaha. Which is why I wasn't able to tell you exactly what to do. Try Northriver,Browns or Pacific Boatland.

spinifera

04-08-2004, 01:06 PM

Fantastic! Thanks Boat Doc!

stevo

04-08-2004, 01:41 PM

Boat Doc', thank you for taking the time to do this.
My question: I have a 4hp merc 2 stroke, the little one with the built-in tank. Over the winter I would start the motor and let it run a minute or so instead of winterizing it. a friend told me that this practice will destroy the water pump. True or false?
Thanks

PeterMac

04-08-2004, 03:05 PM

Hope you can help me here doc....

I have an ooooooooolllllllllddddddd merc i/o (1966). Last night, with the help of Pilar (thank you very much John), we performed some annual routine maintenance including removal of the outdrive and greasing u-joints, inspecting bearings, etc. We had trouble finding the zerk fitting to lube the gimble bearing on this 1966 relic. Do you know where it is? :help:

Thanks!!

PeterMac

Boat Doc'

04-08-2004, 04:18 PM

Stevo, running the motor dry for more than a few seconds will damage the pump. If you ran it for a minute it should be toast. You should definitely take it apart and inspect it.

Boat Doc'

04-08-2004, 04:21 PM

PeterMac, On that old of model there is no zerc, they use a permalube bearing.

35WLN

04-08-2004, 08:37 PM

Dear Boat Doc,

I have a 1999 135 optimax that had the entire powerhead replaced in 2003 after 120 hours of use. Since I have gotten it back she is very difficult to start if she has been sitting for more than two hours. In the morning I probably on average have to turn it over 6 times after pumping the ball till full. Later in the day 3 times. My other problem is with getting the starter grounded. I have cleaned all the connections (positive and negative) and bought a new battery and charged it, yet the problem persists. I removed the starter and checked it with jumper box and it works everytime. I would greatly appreciate any help. I just hope it is something I can do because I am still trying to recover from replacing the motor. Thank you Adam

bobber_boy

04-09-2004, 07:20 AM

boatdoc,
I know someone who has a 2003 23' northriver commander and wants to know if there is a part to hook onto the engine,(496PFI), to flush it out with a garden hose.

Boat Doc'

04-09-2004, 10:09 AM

Adam, Assuming the linkage is set up correctly and the fuel and air pressure is correct it sounds like you have battery and or starter issues. That engine requires a 1000 mca battery coulpled with the correct size battery cables depending on cable length. If it cranks to slow it either won't start or be difficult to start. Another thing is to make sure you have the correct spark plugs and they are not fouled.

Boat Doc'

04-09-2004, 10:16 AM

bobber boy 1, They don't come from the factory with a flush port but you could add one. Without seeing it I wouldn't be able to tell you where to put it. Be careful, if done incorrectly you could cause damage. You might check with the dealer on where to put it.

Dinikin

04-09-2004, 11:02 AM

Dear Boat Doc'

I got 2 questions only, nothing is broken :smash: on the wood.
I got 6 HP Evinrude, and 48 HP Evinrude 2stroke. ~96, 93.

1. Is there a fuel additive to help clean carbs, kinda like fuel injector cleaners to the car gas tank.?
2 Is there any or big demage to start, or crank those engines outside the water for a few seconds.

Tnaks.

stevo

04-09-2004, 11:39 AM

Boat doc, thanks for the reply, won't run the motor dry any more. You recommend opening it up for inspection, but it still spits water like it always has, a steady, strong, cold stream and runs like a top. Did I get lucky, or could the H2O pump still be damaged and need inspection?
Thank you

Boat Doc'

04-09-2004, 02:10 PM

Dinikin, You can get fuel additives that will help remove varnish, but if there is other contamination the only way to remove it is by disassembly. As far running it without water, it is not recommended because you have a rubber impeller inside of a metal housing. It will get hot and melt the rubber if run long enough. Everybody including myself does it for a few seconds but it is not recommended.

Boat Doc'

04-09-2004, 02:22 PM

Stevo, If it was run dry it for a minute it has to have some kind of damage, it may not be a problem know but at some point it will. You may want to check it now so it doesn't let you down when you need it.

Hogmaster

04-13-2004, 11:02 AM

Dear Boat Doc'

Last weekend after driving my 200 Black Max Jet (96) for quite awhile, it suddenly and spontaneously lost all power and died, like it was fuel starved.

It started right back up, but as soon as throttle was applied it died again.

My first thought was the water separator, so I putted to a marina, got a new one, and filled boat the gas tank and oil.

Again, it started fine and idled fine, but once power was applied after about 30 seconds the same thing happened.

Later in the day I noticed that the fuel ball was soft. So as an experiment I had Fishing Is Life continually squeeze the ball while applied power.

Sure enough, it ran fine under this method.

So, from that, am I concluding correctly that this is likely to be a fuel pump gone bad?

And presuming that is correct, how big an effort is required to replace the fuel pump? I know getting it in and out of the shop in a timely fashion this time of year is a challenge, so I would be willing to do it on my own if it isn't too technical.

In that vein, is there a shop manual or even better an on-line Merc manual I can/should be looking at?

It would sure beat expecting my buddies to become human manual fuel pumps!

Thanks,

Hogmaster

Jetman

04-13-2004, 01:40 PM

Boat Doc,
I have a 175 SJ in my 2000 NR and I was wondering if there is a way to improve the charging capabilities of this motor. I've noticed that the injected models of this motor have an alternator. is this a possible retrofit?

Boat Doc'

04-13-2004, 01:57 PM

Hogmaster, They make a diaphragm kit for your fuel pump that is easy to install and comes with directions and pictures. When you take it off also look at the pulse line coming from the block and make sure it is not broken or cracked.

Boat Doc'

04-13-2004, 02:04 PM

Jetman, there is no higher output charging systems available, the injected models use a different cylinder block. You have a 15 amp system which should be adequate for most applications. You might check it to make sure it is functioning.

Ride Red

04-13-2004, 02:38 PM

Boat Doc,

I'm trying to get an idea how much oil a Mercury 135 Optimax will use. I know it will be less than a carburated motor, but that oil is expensive.

Thanks,

Steve

northriver1

04-13-2004, 02:58 PM

Mr. Boat Doc - You are the MAN

Hogmaster

04-13-2004, 03:03 PM

Thanks Boat Doc'!

Are you meaning that I may need (only) the diaphram kit as opposed to the whole fuel pump assembly?

Boat Doc'

04-13-2004, 03:21 PM

Steve, oil ratio runs from 400:1 at idle to 50:1 at wot. You should see a 35 to 50% decrease in oil consumption compared to carb or EFI motor.

Boat Doc'

04-13-2004, 03:26 PM

Hogmaster, if you have a carburated motor the fuel pump is easily rebuildable. You do not need to replace it as an assembly unless the casting is broke. The kit runs about $12.00.

Hogmaster

04-13-2004, 05:08 PM

Kuellll!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:yay: :yay: :yay:

You ARE the man!!!!

:cheers:

stevo

04-14-2004, 09:37 AM

Thanks Boat Doc', will take it apart and check out the impeller.

Grayghost

04-16-2004, 09:51 PM

Hi boat doc.I have a 86 8hp. merc runs great at sea level but when I go to the high mt. lakes it runs ruff and dies at low rpms, hard to troll.What to do?

bobber_boy

04-18-2004, 05:33 PM

I have a 1989? yami 4 hp that has a bad water pump impeller. how easy is it to replace? Are there any special tools needed, how much does it cost, and where is it located. do you suggest that i take it in, or is it a simple fix. any help would be greatly appreciated

bobber_boy

04-20-2004, 05:52 PM

TTT

Boat Doc'

04-22-2004, 09:46 AM

Sorry for the delay on these posts. Just got back from service training on Mercurys new Verado outboard. Supercharged 200 thru 275 4 stroke! Way cool stuff.

Grayghost, you will need to readjust your idle mixture screw to get it to idle at higher altitudes. Screw it in till it smooths out and it should be fine. If the top end power loss is unacceptable you can try a smaller pitch prop.

Boat Doc'

04-22-2004, 09:51 AM

Bobberboy, water pump is easy to change, just unbolt the lower unit and it sits on top. We don't service them. I would guess you would pay a dealer around 125.00, Make sure you get a quote before you drop it off somewhere.

Hogmaster

04-22-2004, 10:17 AM

Hi Boat Doc'

Per your suggestion, I got the diaphram kit for my 200 Black Max and replaced the old one.

I think I even re-assembled everything right. :shocked:

But after doing do, I took the boat out and had the same problem, :shrug: That is, the ball goes flat. Fuel is not getting delivered properly. As long as I use a "manual fuel pump override" (i.e. someone pumps the ball), it runs fine.

The fuel pump is not leaking.

I was noticing that there is a fuel filter after the fuel pump and befor the carb. Is it possible that is is the culprit? And if so, is it a standard replacement item, or do I need to take the old one in to get a new one?

Thoughts?

Thanks!

Boat Doc'

04-22-2004, 03:05 PM

Hogmaster,yes it could be the fuel filter, could also be the primer bulb. Easiest thing to do is hook it up to another fuel source to isolate the problem to the motor or the boat. Make sure you check for loose or kinked hoses and fittings.

Hogmaster

04-23-2004, 08:58 AM

Ahhhh, good suggestion boat doc!

My buddy was questioning why, if it were the fuel filter, would the ball allow us to pump full, then go empty? He theorized that something is preventing fuel from getting to the pump/filter/carbs because of something preventing fuel flowing. That it would seem more likely the problem would be before, not after the ball, since the ball goes flat. But the ball itself could indeed be an issue I suppose.

There is not typically a filter somewhere just off the tank and BEFORE the ball is there? That was the only other thing we could think of.

Yes, I know I need to check the hoses closely for kinkage too.

I'll see if I can fill a 5 gallon can and run it direct to isolate the filter versus ball/upstream source of the problem. Didn't realize balls could go bad, other than maybe rot or something.

Thanks again for the tips!

:cheers:

Boat Doc'

04-23-2004, 01:35 PM

Hogmaster, If the bulb is empty of fuel the problem would have to be from the fuel pump forward. If the bulb is physically flat the problem would be from the bulb forward. There is check valves in the bulb that could fail, also the pickup tube in tank could be cracked or broke. If there wasa blockage the bulb would be physically flat. If the bulb is empty of fuel you are looking for loose or broken fittings. This assumes the fuel pump is operating.

judyfish99

04-24-2004, 10:58 AM

Boat Doc, judyfish99 here, doing a favor for a friend...he has a 1987 15hp johnson long shaft. Uses 100:1 gas mixture. Higer rpms it will pee out water :bigshock:(his words, not mine) and at low idle, there is no sign of water being ejected. Is there a fix he can do? Thanks so much, :hearton:judyfish99

Highball

04-24-2004, 10:04 PM

Boat Doc - Thanks for answering someones post awhile back about starting large hp two stroke Mercs. I bought mine used two years ago and it was always hard starting. You said hold the key in for a count of 10. Bamb, every time now it fires with one turn of the key. Thanks again!!!

Salmonator

04-24-2004, 10:16 PM

Boat doc, I have a mid 90's two stroke 15hp merc kicker. It starts and runs fine, but occasionally it will suddenly lose power (as in instantly, as if it had lost a cylinder). I know the plugs are good. When it does this, I have to give it more throttle to keep it running and it won't idle. It will suddenly start running good again after awhile, just like somebody flipped a switch. TIA... Joe

Boat Doc'

04-26-2004, 10:19 AM

Joe, problems that are intermittent are difficult to diagnose. The most common component that we see is the switch box. It is mounted on port side exhaust cover. If you buy it from Stevens and it turns out not to be the problem I would authorize a refund.

outdoor.spec.ops

04-26-2004, 10:50 AM

Dear Boat Doc,

I was anchored Saturday, and when it was time to go, the motor wouldn't start. It would turn over, but not fire. I took it home, and get no spark from the spark plugs at all. It is a 1995 Suzuki 100 Hp Jet, dt140? motor. I think I may have lost the CDI powerpack, but before spending 750 bucks on a new one, is there anything else to check?

Thanks,
Aaron

NAUTI-NOTIONS

04-26-2004, 11:26 AM

I tee'd off the main fuel line to run a kicker, after running the main the primer bulb for the kicker was colasped and would not fill with fuel? i was told to run a three way off the filter/seperator. isn't there an easier way... i would like to be able to run both motors at the same time. main motor is a 300 hp 351 and the kicker is a yamaha 9.9 four stroke. will the fuel pump put to much pressure at the kicker carb?
thanks
Sam

Salmonator

04-26-2004, 11:52 AM

I'll give that a whirl. Thanks Doc

Boat Doc'

04-26-2004, 03:03 PM

Aaron, it would sure be unusual for a module to fail but it could happen. Before you order one up check the lanyard switch if it has one and make sure it didnt get turned off. Also look at the wiring where it goes thru any bulkheads and the engine cowl to make sure nothing is pinched. After that I would recommend having it diagnosed by a technician so you dont get stuck with an expensive part that may not be bad.

Boat Doc'

04-26-2004, 03:14 PM

Sam, make sure the primer bulb is hanging vertically so the check valves will function. As for the plumbing you should have the main line from the tank going to the water seperator with a check valve at the tank fitting. Have the troller plumbed to the seperater with no check valve. The main engine should also plumb to the seperater with a check valve. This will prevent the troller from drawing fuel from the main engine and then run out of fuel. If the bulb still collapses then check the check valve on the tank for restrictions or the bulb itself.

FISHNAKED

04-26-2004, 07:04 PM

Boat Doc:

Thanks for your support. My question is I just bought a sled w/a 200\140, and I'm wondering if water is suposed to come out the 'p' hole in a steady stream or does this moter have a thermestate, seems to dribble out till i'm on the throtle. (the moter is a merc).

thank-you in advance.

Dave:

Redhawk

04-26-2004, 09:20 PM

I have an 8hp 2000 Honda. I have had two events where oil has "puked" out of the engine and all over the water. One was after getting line tangled in prop with engine running. The other was after running upstream at Bonneville with the engine tilted up but forgot to turn it off. When we dropped it back into the water (it was not tilted entirely out of the water so it still had cooling water) oil gushed out of the engine top and all over the water. I had recently changed the oil and had put in 27 floz as required by Honda. I rechanged the oil and put only 24 floz in. Maybe too full? But where is the engine oil coming out of?? :shrug: Thanks for the help -- redhawk

Streetwalker

04-27-2004, 07:51 AM

Boat Doc,
I installed the charging harness kit on a 2002 Merc 9.9 4 stroke. After install, I started the motor & put a meter on the battery connections before hooking them up to verify that I was getting current. The meter showed around 6-8 volts & anywhere from 5.5 - 6 amps output.
I am having a TR-1 gold installed & want to compensate for the draw that it will pull plus electronics I am running. Is the voltage / amperage output correct & can I expect this to keep the 1 battery that this is routed to ( 2 batt system ) charged adequately ??

NAUTI-NOTIONS

04-27-2004, 09:41 AM

after closer inspection i discovered i have a check valve or anti-sipon [potty mouth] at the outlet of the main tank. it appears that the bulb for the trolling motor does not have enough pull to access the fuel thru the fitting. so with that said I plan on removing and inspecting that fitting tonight. If need be do I replace it with a check valve or anti-sipon [potty mouth]?
Thaanks
Sam

SalmonSeason

04-27-2004, 12:22 PM

For Boat Doc or anyone out there who knows....

My new sled (21' Super Vee) with Guide Transom...was purchased last summer from Stevens from Eric in Tigard... I purchased and currently have a 200 Merc with a prop...I also purchased the pump and want to change it out...

I am told that I need a jack plate??? If so why then didn't I have a jack plate when I first bought it?? I'll get with Eric on that later...

I would like to change the pump,,mmmmm,,,like yesterday :wink:
I would do it myself but have no instructions and not sure if I need to purchase more parts I called Tigard and Milwaukie who says "can't work on anything for 2-3 weeks" well there's not much sense in changing to the pump when I only need it for the month of May and possibly June

Anyone have instructions or advice??

Wood N' Fish

04-27-2004, 01:01 PM

Boat Doc'---I have a 2000 50hp Merc four-stroke with 250 hrs on her. Lately the overheat alarm has been coming on a a idle. I suppose it may be time to replace the water pump impeller. Look's like plenty of water is still being squirted out though. Where's the impeller located, and can a fairly non-challenged mechanic get at it? Thanks!

Boat Doc'

04-27-2004, 02:29 PM

Dave, some models don,t pee water well at low rpm. If no alarms are sounding then it is ok. You might try sticking a peice of wire in tell tale hole while it is running as they can get restricted by debris.

Boat Doc'

04-27-2004, 02:41 PM

Redhawk. The engine could be making oil by one or more of the following conditions. Running cold and having unburned fuel go past the rings into the crankcase, cure is to replace stuck thermostat. Leaking gasket causing water to enter crankcase. cure is to identify and replace bad gasket. Overfilling at oil change. You need to monitor oil level before and after usage to see if oil level is rising. If it has fuel in it it will smell like gas and be a normal color. If it has water in it it will be milkey in color. Oil would come from crankcase breather which attaches to air inlet.

Boat Doc'

04-27-2004, 02:48 PM

Streetwalker, A properly tuned TR-1 will draw about 1.5 amps, all of your electronics are about the amount so you should be fine. A properly tuned TR-1 moved every few seconds, not constantly

Boat Doc'

04-27-2004, 02:58 PM

Sam, the check valve on the tank is a Coast Guard requirement. If the main fuel line should leak and fall into the bilge it prevents the fuel tank from siphoning into the bilge. The engine should be able to pull fuel past it easily. If the bulb is going flat the problem is between the bulb and the tank pickup. Bulb could be to soft, debris could be in check valve or pickup tube or a kinked hose. Some people do remove the check valves but it is not recommended.

Boat Doc'

04-27-2004, 03:11 PM

SalmonSeason, there is a few ways to run both units. In terms of cost they are as follows. 5 inch spacer kit on engine with prop that gets removed when pump is installed. This MAY require unbolting motor and lowering it 2 bolt holes. Same as above with jack plate only you move the jack plate to raise or lower motor. Custom fabrication of driveshaft and spacer assy. that doesn't require any engine height change. We could do the conversion in Tigard next week. When you call let the guys know I said it was ok. If you are only converting it once ayear you would probably want to have us do it. We could show you but 8 months later you may forget.

Boat Doc'

04-27-2004, 03:24 PM

Wood N Fish, I agree the water pump needs replaced. Remove the mounting bolts and disconnect the shift shaft coupler and it sits on top. You should be able to do it no problem

MintBrite

04-28-2004, 08:44 AM

Boat Doc- I have a 76 mercuiser 165 in a 21 ft fiberform. Heavy boat and loaded with people ice food and all for a day on the river in the sun. I'm running up river against current at about 3400 rpm. The boats load is heavy but I know I'm not overloaded when the outdrive acts like it had hit something? Ive had it kick-up before hitting things but this was different, when I started back on a plane it now acts like the hub is slipping. I power down and make my way to the beach ever so carefully. I give it a "goose" a couple of times and convinced myself that its a slipping hub. Had this happen several times in 25yrs. Heres the thing 3 yrs. ago I put on the newer plastic hub that are suppose to break away when they fail. I didn't see any apparent damage when I replaced it. Is there something in the outdrive itself that could be slipping? No grinding or unhappy noises could be heard and we made it back without a hitch at 2600 rpm.
sorry about the long story just wanted to stress the load and current condition at the time.
thanks-Del

Boat Doc'

04-28-2004, 10:19 AM

Del, Its either the prop hub, gears or the engine coupler. With the engine not running put the control in forward gear. Make sure the key is off! and have someone turn the prop counter clockwise. Look at the driveshaft where it goes into the engine and see if it turns. If the shaft turns and the engine does not then the coupler is bad. Suggested repair would be coupler and mounts. If the prop turns and the shaft doesnt then its either gears or prop hub.