Stevens Marine Boat Doc'

[Turk_E_Killer]

Boat Doc,

I have an 84' honda 50cc fourstroke motor that I use on my 12' Appleby aluminium vhull. I think it is rated at 5hp, or thats what the guy told me who sold it to me.

I was trolling the other day at idle and no water was coming out of the exhaust hole where it usually does when idling. The motor began to get hot and would only pump a steady stream of water at higher rpm and not at idle. I have had this motor for about 2 years and no problems until this happened on Sunday. It was pushing air through the water cooling area and then when I would bring the rpm's out of idle it would begin to pump, with the first of the water being pretty warm and then the temp of the exhaust water would go back to normal after a few seconds. Also, the engine felt like it lost its umph. I was wondering if I should try to take the lower shaft section apart or just blow it out with air and try it. I was hoping this would just be some sort of obstruction in the intake in front of the propeller, but wanted to ask your opinion before I open up the motor or tried to fix the issue.

I am pretty mechanically savvy, just have not worked on many boat engines.

Thank you for your time!

[Boat Doc']

If it's really old look just in front of the prop for several elongated holes

[iampapajack]

Boat Doc...21' 2001 NW Jet 350GM Hami 212....Why does this happen and can it be stopped. Last weekend I put the boat in for the first time this year. Trailer was at launching depth (for driveoff) and boat unhooked. I was as close to neutral on shifter as possible and engine at high idle, about 12-1500 rpm. I went to the stern and opened the engine cover to check for any type of leak as I do after boat has sat for awhile. I felt movment and the Hami went into reverse by itself. In a split second I was off the trailer and moving rapidly in reverse. My 60 year old body moved very fast and I was able to close the engine cover, scamper to the drivers seat an gain control. Lucky I was the only boat around or for sure I would have caused some major damages...Now how does this happen and can it be corrected. This has happened once before but the boat was still on the winch that time..Thanks for your help..jack

[Whopper Stopper]

Help! I have a 99 Merc 6HP 2 stroke. It starts fine and runs smooth at the start. However, when I increase power once it gets abover 3/4 after about 30 seconds it loses power. I can throttle down to keep it from dying but then when I try to increase power it loses power at 1/2 speed. As long as I keep it at 1/4 speed or less it runs fine. If I turn it off and wait a few minutes and do it again I can go at 3/4 of better for another 30 seconds before it does it again.

The bulb is firm and if I pump it it makes no difference at all. I took it to Sportcraft last summer and after four weeks they said it checked out fine to them, compression is fine, fuel filter is fine, fuel pump is fine. They said the cause was water in my gas tank. I took it out after I emptied the gas tank and gas line and put in fresh gas 50-1 and it does the same thing. I opened the vent on the gas tank all the way.. no help. I removed the top of the motor and ran it... no help.

I'm scratching why it worked fine for Sportcraft, but when I use it it does the exact same thing it did before.

[negoc8]

Whopper Stopper I am not a Boat mech, not even close. But last summer I ran into what sounds like exactly the same thing. After new fuel filters, new fuel pump, new primer ball and a couple other stabs in the dark, I went and picked it up from the shop took it home and did some very basic testing for proper fuel flow. Turned out to be a piece of plastic caught in the fuel line between the fuel connection point on the motor and the fuel pump. Hard to figure how the heck it got in there, but I removed it and solved the problem.
Long story short, check the easy stuff first.

Or take it to Stevens :D Probably would have avoided a lot of headaches.

[Boat Doc']

Lampapajack, there is not a strong enough neutral detent to hold the bucket in neutral at high throttle settings. Idle speed in neutral probably shouldn't exceed 1000 rpm or else it will move to a gear. Note that a jet is always moving water and neutral is acquired by adjustment of the bucket to get as close to no movement as possible.

[Boat Doc']

Whopperstopper, let start with list of assumptions. That compression good, good spark, plugs not fouled, sample of fuel has been taken and there is no comtamination. Also check the fuel lines for restrictions as negoc8 suggested. Next I would take the carb apart looking carefully for debris in the float bowl or something stuck in the main jet. Next see if the exhaust reliefs are plugged, if they are the powerhead may have to come off and carbon cleaned out of the exhaust. Much easier job than it sounds. Do the carb first if everything else was ok, that's probably the issue.

[HntnFsh]

Boat Doc,
I have a 87 merc 115 horse.
A few years ago the local Merc mech.Did a complete rebuild.
From day 1 Ive had problems with it.Got most things taken care of but a couple still linger.Just got tired of running it back to the shop.

It hardly ever idles after running.If Ive been running it a bit and slow down or stop.Then put it in nuetral it will die 99% of the time.If I start it and let it idle sometimes I have to try 3 or 4 times before it will actually idle.When I start it.Warm or cold,I have to choke it and manipulate the throttle.Usually moving the lever to full throttle.Till it starts.Sometimes I think it is getting too much fuel.Others it acts like it is starving for fuel.

When I get it started and am under power it runs like a top.Through most all of the power range.

This thing is also a real dog on take off.Taking quite awhile to get up a head of steam.Its almost impossible to get a skier up its so bad.

This motor is on an old 16 foot glass boat.Seems like it should be enough power for the boat its on.

One guy told me to take off the idle solenoid? I believe that was the proper term.Its towards the top of the motor off to one side.Kinda resmbels an enrichener valve on a sport jet.

The fule pump was rebuilt and tested some time ago.And the carbs were gone through a couple times.Didnt seem to make a difference.

Another question is,how far from the waterline should the exhoust ports be.

Sorry for the long winded post.But really do appreciate the great sevice you and Stevens povides for us.

Thank You,
Rick

[Boat Doc']

First leave the enrichener alone, second have someone go thru the sync and link and adjust the idle speed. If the idle jets won't adjust within specs the bleed system may have issues-hoses improperly routed or check valves not functioning. If it's running on the bottom 2 cylinders at idle the accelerater pump check valves may be sticking. Finally when you get it running right make sure you have the correct prop, it may be overpropped.

[Flatfish]

Boat Doc-

Our 2005 Merc 200 Saltwater has an alarm go off when we hit waves/wakes. Never does it in calm water. It only does it as we actually hit the wakes. Just a few beeps. It gets more pronounced the lower the oil tank gets.

Took it to Stevens once, they bled the system. It worked okay for a month or so, and started again. Other than bleeding the thing(I assume take the cowling off, start the motor and bleed the thing from the oil tank on the engine....there is a valve stem sorta valve in there....is that it?) what can we do?

Do these thingc occasionally get an air bubble in the system that needs to be worked out, or is ther something mechanical that is causing it?

Thanks

Mark

[Boat Doc']

The system uses air pressure to force the oil from the tank in the boat to the one on the engine. Most common problems are one of the caps on the boat mounted tank being loose, a kink, loose connection or split in the pressure hose that goes from the tank to the motor and the check valve that the hose attaches to on the motor that is not functioning. Lastly and least likely is the pickup tube screen may be plugged and needs cleaned.

[Avatar James]

I have a 2000 Alumaweld Stryker with a merc 175 sportjet. Having trouble starting. It will sometimes start but immediately it shuts down. I was able to get it to start a couple of times when I had a buddy pump the throtle linkage while I turned the key. It ran fine once we got it started. I have not been able to start it since. I was told when I purchased the boat to push in the key a couple of times when starting, was thinking this may be the problem. Rebuilt the started last spring. Purchased the boat used and have not been able to find any sort of repair manual. Is that something Stevens carries?

I am so happy to find this forum, thanks for any help.:pray:

[Boat Doc']

Pumping the throttle and pushing in the key has no effect on a Sportjet. Normally the longer they sit the harder they are to start the first time of the day because the fuel pump only runs when the engine is cranking. There is numerous posts on cures if you do a search.

[Reno]

Boat Doc,

I have an issue I hope you can help me with. I have a 1975 850 Mercury that was originally a prop with a longshaft and the guy I bought it from put a pump on it. When he put on the pump it appears the shaft was too short and used an extention. The shaft is 25" and the extention adds about 4".

Now the problem. I was running down the Willy and all the sudden the boat stopped, the motor runs good but there is no thrust. So I took the pump off and the tip of the extention is rounded off. It looks like only about 1/4" of the extention was actually in the crankshaft. So what I am wondering is can I get the proper length shaft and not have to use an extention? Or do I need to find a longer extension? I think the total length I need is about 30" but I can't tell exactly.

Any information you can provide will be greatly appriciated. Thank you very much for your time.

Reno

[Boat Doc']

Either way is an option. We don't use stub shafts on jets because of potential issues with the shaft whipping. Shaft would run about 200.00. Would need to know if it uses one or two bearings. If you think the bolts are going to break on disassembly you might consider the stub shaft instead.

[Reno]

Boat Doc-

I think I would prefer the shaft to be all one piece as long as I have it apart. I have taken the impellor off and down to the water pump. Now I cannot figure out how the cover comes off from above the impellor where the berrings are. I removed the 4 bolts andI have pulled and twisted and it won't budge. Any advice? After this then I should be ready to order all the parts. Thanks again for all your help.

-Reno

[Boat Doc']

If the water pump is off including the baseand the four bolts have been removed that hold the carrier in then the shaft assy should pull out from the bottom. If it's stuck you may have to drive it out with a punch. Make sure you doin't damage it excessively. After you get it out there is a snap ring that holds the shaft in. It will require heat to get the shaft to slide out of the housing.

[Gr8waves]

BoatDoc - I put a tach and temperature guage in the boat ('06 175sj in a 19' Stryker) and, suprisingly, they worked. I have two questions for you:

What is the normal RPM range for that motor? Idle was about 1100 and WOT was 5600

What is the expected temperature range? It reached about 125 degrees after running WOT.

Thanks,

Gr8waves

[Boat Doc']

rpm range is 5000 to 5700, temp range runs approx 140-155

[Reno]

If the water pump is off including the baseand the four bolts have been removed that hold the carrier in then the shaft assy should pull out from the bottom. If it's stuck you may have to drive it out with a punch. Make sure you doin't damage it excessively. After you get it out there is a snap ring that holds the shaft in. It will require heat to get the shaft to slide out of the housing.



For the life of me I can't get this thing off. I beat on the top of the shaft until I was blue in the face and the shaft did not budge. I even heated the pump housing around the carrier cover. I am afraid of breaking something inside the carrier if I haven't already. I admitted defeat and took the pump out to you guys today but apparently it is too old for you to work on or get parts for. Bummer. Do I just need a bigger hammer? I would just put the stubby replacement shaft on and call it good but I think I need to replace the bearings and whatever else is in there after beating on it. Sorry to keep bugging you with the same problem but I am getting really frustrated with it. Thank you for your time.

-Reno

[Boat Doc']

If you want to bring it to the Tigard store and tell them I said it was ok we can deal with it for you, and yes it may need a bigger hammer

[BA Baracus]

I am from Washington and now all fuel is converting to 10% ethanol.

This has probably been covered before but how bad is this for a Mercury 175 sportjet??

Could I get an additive or buy a higher octane? Mercury recommends 87 for my motor but warns against ethanol.

Mike

[Boat Doc']

No problem, you should have a water seperating fuel filter and dump it to see if there is any water. If there is dump it after each use till it goes away then go back to your normal maintenance. Do not use any additives. The motor is certified for 10% ethanol

[Reno]

If you want to bring it to the Tigard store and tell them I said it was ok we can deal with it for you, and yes it may need a bigger hammer

You were right I needed a bigger hammer. So I finally got it all apart. The shaft only has one bearing but it is about an inch thick and use 2 rows of bearing balls. Now the question is do you need any other information to be able to tell what lenght of shaft I need? Should I call down there and ask for the "Boat Doc" to get this stuff? Thank you very much for your help you are a life saver.

Thanks again,

-Reno

[jimsbuddy]

Hey Doc, I might be on my way to you. I posted a while back about rough idle issue. Took the boat out to the lake yesterday as a first of season test run. I started rough, wouldn't idle and I had to adjust up the idle as you suggested. motoring out around the lake it was sputtering... like not running on all cylinders. Finally it died, I managed to get it started again by holding down a linkage that seemed like a butterfly on the intake side of the carb, and holding the idle linkage up a bit. we made it back to the doc, stumbling all the way. I think the gas might be sludge in one or more of the 4 carbs (Yamaha F50TLRT) causing the bad and rough idle. I pulled and installed 4 new plugs about a month ago they were not bad looking it was a "get ready for season" tuneup. Any thoughts???

[Boat Doc']

Reno, just ask for Rick

[Boat Doc']

jimsbuddy, I think the carbs need to be thoroughly cleaned. We don't service Yamaha products.

[whlmn]

I have an 1985 honda bf100L that I am replacing the water tube seals. The top water tube seal matches the one in the exploded view diagram in the parts catalog but it does not match the one I took out of the bottom of the motor case and the diagram does not show that part at all. The water tube will not seal to the upper case with the new seal. I am trying to attach a picture of the old and new seals. Any suggestions?

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2957881010103254521LJOyab

[jimsbuddy]

Yea Doc, I just did some inspection... the fuel filter was removed and drained into a clear milk jug.... lots of rust floating, and water also in the filter. Pulling the drain screws on the carbs drained #1 ok, #2 bad nothing came out had to force it out with spray can hose and some coaxing, #3/4 was ugly dirty fuel. Basically i pulled the hand pump/bulb line off the filter housing and put it in can of clean fuel, with lots of cranking to fill up the carbs and get things flowing. Finally fired up and ran bit rough, but then cleared up. I think some laps around the lake might get things back 100%. If not into the shop as planned. Thanks for you help

Sorry you don't work on Yamaha's would love to bring some business your way for all you support on the forum...

[Boat Doc']

Whimn, unfortunatly I'm not that familiar with Honda. It may be that there was a change and you're not getting the correct picture by model and serial number.

[SPRINGERMAN]

Hey Boat Doc, posting for a friend about a oil low alarm on a 97 90hp merc, he has changed the sensor and 1 other associated relay set up. Still gets the beeping alarm from the motor. Has plenty of oil, still runs well, lite smoke and water from exhaust as usual...any hints as to the problem other than injector going south....Thanks Dave

[Boat Doc']

It either thinks it's hot or low on oil. If you can hold your hand on the block and it's not hot then look at the oil sender that goes into the bottom of the tank to make sure it didn't fall out. If it still does it remove the oil tank and turn it upside down, the float may have sunk. If it still does it after thgat it would have to be the warning module. Usually it's the float which means replacing the tank.

[SPRINGERMAN]

Thanks boat doc God, I think he has replaced both the sensors, haven't tried the float upside down thing. I will relay th info to him thanks again...Dave

[Redhawk]

Hey Boat Doc -- you've been a great help before -- here goes again.
I have a 1999 Honda 8 hp that the manual says will charge a battery, so I wired into the plug on the shift handle side of the motor and attached it to my backup battery. I thought this would be better than sliced bread since only one of my batteries are charged by the main engine. The batteries are separated, not wired together in anyway. The 2d battery runs my fish finder and I put my 110V battery charger on the 2d battery to charge it at home. After wiring from 8hp kicker I thought I had really done a great deed until my fish finder died from a dead battery, dooowwh! I found a fuse inline inside the kicker and it was fine. Any ideas on how to get electrons from kicker to battery??

thanks a lot -- redhawk

[Boat Doc']

That model doesn't have a charging system, it may be available as an accessory. Would need a model number to verify.

[Redhawk]

The model number is BF8A. Thanks

[raidersteve67]

Hey Boat Doc
I am very worried that something is wrong with my motor. Yesterday I was on the lake all day as i get ready to go back to the ramp (on the other side of the lake) i start my big motor 85 yami outboard 2 stroke and it started just fine. as i get going i hear a buzzing noise from the romote consul i look back at the motoe and there is no water coming from the hole so i shut it down i smell hot, and lumber across the lake with the kicker
I know that i need to look at the impellers and pump but did i ruin the motor and how can i tell, it still starts and runs but did i do any damage

[Boat Doc']

Redhawk, I'm told we need the rest of the numbers.

[Boat Doc']

Redhawk67, if it starts and doesn't rattle it's probably fine. I would check compression to verify.

[Redhawk]

The serial number for my Honda is BZBC1401326. The manual for the BF8a says that it has a 5 amp charging system for a 12v battery, complete with a 5 amp fuse inside the cowling.

[lightning]

Hi Boat Doc,
I have a 1988 Merc 3CYL 2 stroke 90 hp prop,
It appears as tho the pinion bearing siezed. I have it torn down to removing the drive shaft but it won't come out. The pinion gear nut is off. Is there a secret tool or method to remove it or should I just box up the lower unit and take it to a pro for rebuild? The gears and other parts look good. What could I expect it to cost? There was some water in the gear lube when I drained it. Could this have been the cause? Do you know an expert in the Tri-cities you would recommend?
thanx for your expertise,:applause:
Lightning

[Boat Doc']

I'm told the output is 3 amps. at idle it may not charge at all.

[kscheffler]

I have a 2002 EFI 4S 40 HP mercury 3 cylinder. I am trying to change out the water impellar. I have a service manual and a impellar replacment kit that I purchased from Stevens. The service manual does not tell you how to disconnect the shift shaft from the lower unit. Do you have to remove the rubber boot that is covering the shift shaft where it enters the lower unit and is there some kind of nut that attaches the shift shaft to the lower unit? I thought it was strange that there was no replacement boot in the impellar package so I did not take it off. If this is where you disconnet is there a trick to reinstallling to make adjustments for the shift rod? Thanks for your help..

[Boat Doc']

Lightning, A hammer and a vise with some care should do it. That is normally caused by a lack of lube. A little water was likely not the cause so long as it was full. I would rely on word of mouth to find a pro in your area.

[Boat Doc']

kscheffler, there is a coupling near the mid section that unsrews to remove the gearcase. It's visible without removing anything, you may have to shift it into a gear to see all of it.

[kscheffler]

kscheffler, there is a coupling near the mid section that unsrews to remove the gearcase. It's visible without removing anything, you may have to shift it into a gear to see all of it.

[kscheffler]

THe manual says I need to disconnect the shift rod from the shift lever should I place it in gear first before I disconnect or do I not need to disconnect the shift rod from the shift lever on the front of the motor. Maybe I also need to remove the couling from the motor to see the coupling? Thanks for the help I need to figure this out so I can get back on the water...

[Boat Doc']

The shift rod has a nut that needs to be removed. It's located at the bottom of the swivel tube by the lower mounts.

[fishncliff]

Boat Doc,

I have a 50hp Mariner. Today while running up river at full throttle, the motor went into a high whine, and lost propullsion.
I throttled down, and back up slowly. Just above 1/4 to 1/2 power, it does it again. We were able to get to the dock at 1/4 impulse power at about 7mph. The motor worked fine otherwise except for a vibration at 1/4 power.
I was told I spun the prop hub. Upon removal of the prop, it looks like my spare, except for the surface of the hub that was next to the shaft. It has been ground down and a lot of shavings on the shaft and in the grease.
I drained the lower unit in preparation for removal. The oil was black, no shavings.
We tried to remove the lower unit, per the manual instructions, but it will not separate.
I filled the lower unit back up with lube and reinstalled all the fasteners. I haven't put it back in the water to see if the other prop does the same thing.
Any help is appreciated.

[fishbait]

Boat Doc,

Merc 1998 115 ELPTO with a pump on a 18 ft SuperVee LT SN: OG722737

Problem: Power trim/tilt does not work in the down mode.

Power tilt motor works fine from either switch in the up mode but does not work at all from either switch in down mode.

I can hear and feel the relays working in both up and down mode.

I have 12V up and 12V down from both switches at the connectors to the 2 wires leading into the power tilt motor. These in line conncetors are located inside the cowleing close to the up/down switch.

Don't know if this is significant or not:

I have the YELLOW filler plug.

With the motor in the up position:

1. I loosened the yellow filler plug thinking this would allow the motor to lower. It did not. Fluid level was at or just below the filler hole. Sticker on motor said fluid would be under pressure and it was not at this filler plug.

2. Loosened the drain hole on rt hand side of motor housing and this did release pressure allowing the motor to lower.

I have to suspect the brushes or a connector in the down circuit somewhere inside the motor itself as the up circuit works fine.

A. Is this power tilt motor servicable ?
B. Or just a total replacement item ?

Thanks in advance

Steve

[Boat Doc']

fishncliff, it will probably work fine with the spare prop. A prop shop can replace the hub for you.

[Boat Doc']

fishbait, check along the length of the trim motor harness for a wire that is broken or has come unplugged, if it goes up it should run the other way. You might also swap relays. I don't think the motor is bad.

[ReelAttitude]

Hi Boat Doc

the kid next door has submerged his 70 40hp merc at idle

I dont know much about 2 strokes, but Im trying to help him out

I drained the water from the cylinders and spun the motor over to pump out the water, cleaned out the Mag and I got the spark back.
I removed the carb jet plugs and used the squeeze ball to pump fresh fuel into the carbs and drain any water from the fuel lines pump and carbs

she still doesnt want to start unless I put fuel in the cylinders.....Im guessing I need to remove and overhaul the carbs, to get the fuel system correct

is there any other issues I need to look into while Im going in this far?

thanks Doc

[fishbait]

fishbait, check along the length of the trim motor harness for a wire that is broken or has come unplugged, if it goes up it should run the other way. You might also swap relays. I don't think the motor is bad.


Thanks BD,

I have power to the two wires, so believe the relays are fine, but will swap just because. I did inspect the wire leads and looked OK, will test for 12V at the point the wires enter the motor housing.

Is this motor servicable IE: replace brushes, etc? or just replaced as a unit?

Thanks

FB

[Boat Doc']

reelattitude, It is important to get it running asap to prevent rust build up internally. One tank of double oil would be good. Clean the carbs if necessary. Also the crankcase may have enough water in it that the plugs are getting fouled. Anything electrical will eventually need rebuilt or replaced.

[Boat Doc']

fishbait, the motor is not servicable. For a reasonably priced replacement try ARCO in Florida.

[Willie Ketchum]

Help me Boat Doc, you're my only hope!

The remote oil tank on my 1992 200 Merc got a little low and the beeper sounded. I filled the remote tank, still beeps. Bled the air from the upper tank, still beeps. Tested the float switch, it switches, manually moving it doesn't stop the beep. Opened the bleed screw on the pump, still beeps, but it pumps oil. Smokes like usual when it runs, never stops beepin.

What next?

BTW, pee tube pees, the motor doesn't run hot, new impeller.

Thanks, WK

[Boat Doc']

Does it beep with the key on and not cranking or only when running? Intermittent beep or solid horn?

[Willie Ketchum]

beep beep beep from the time ya turn the key on, never stops til key off, no change when running.

[24 on/ 48 off]

Heya boat doc...

Just noticed something on my 2006 merc 9.9. It appears to be P'ing in a place I haven't noticed it before. Click on the pic below to see the issue. Can you give me an idea?

[Boat Doc']

If the float switch shows open and closed with a meter when the float is moved up and down it would have to be the warning module.

[Willie Ketchum]

Thanks Rick!

[jimsbuddy]

Hey Doc, I might be on my way to you. I posted a while back about rough idle issue. Took the boat out to the lake yesterday as a first of season test run. I started rough, wouldn't idle and I had to adjust up the idle as you suggested. motoring out around the lake it was sputtering... like not running on all cylinders. Finally it died, I managed to get it started again by holding down a linkage that seemed like a butterfly on the intake side of the carb, and holding the idle linkage up a bit. we made it back to the doc, stumbling all the way. I think the gas might be sludge in one or more of the 4 carbs (Yamaha F50TLRT) causing the bad and rough idle. I pulled and installed 4 new plugs about a month ago they were not bad looking it was a "get ready for season" tuneup. Any thoughts???
Hey BoatDoc, I posted this up earlier, but just to give you some history. Problem still continues... Troubleshooting rough idle and smoke, I know for sure the carbs are clean and getting fuel into the engine. I pull #1 cyl wire and no change in engine speed, all other 3 will drop engine rpm significantly. I pull the carb off #1 to ensure there is fuel getting into the engine. I had an issue with water in tank / fuel filter. Jets are clean and the float/needle valve is working properly. Put back together and fire it up, same issue rough idle and #1 is not firing. If I pull the plug out of the intake runner, and spray a bit of carb clean into the engine, the rpm will raise. This tells me a couple of things. The cylinder will fire. Not enough fuel is getting into the engine. spray more fuel in and cylinder will work. With the smoke issue I have after engine is warm, and rough idle, is the head gasket blown??? I would conclude this if it were on a car this way. I think I mentioned before... out of the center bolt for the prop the exhaust comes out as well as small trail of water. My guess is that the blown head gasket is leaking water in the cylinder, fouling out the plug, but if I spray enough extra fuel into the cylinder then it is rich enough to fire the cylinder. Oh last week when I was looking at the plugs, #1 seemed wet and didnt have a fuel smell to it

wheeww

[Boat Doc']

If compression and a leak down test is ok I think you still have a carb issue. Carbs may need to come apart and carefully and thoroughly cleaned. We do not service Yamaha products.

[snohonative]

Hi Doc,

I have a 2003 175 mercury sport jet that has weak spark on the left bank and strong spark on the right bank which is allowing me to only get up to 4000rpms. The plugs are brand new. I checked all the connections and they seemed to be tight and free of corrosion. I switched the coil packs from side to side and the weak spark remained on the left bank. What step should I take next to figure out what is causing the weak spark? Any help is greatly appreciated.

[jimsbuddy]

If compression and a leak down test is ok I think you still have a carb issue. Carbs may need to come apart and carefully and thoroughly cleaned. We do not service Yamaha products. thanks much

[Boat Doc']

snohonative, try switching the stator leads and unplugging the black with yellow stripe wires with the plug wires off so it won't start. Black with yellow stripe goes to the key switch. One of those steps should point you in the right direction.

[Redhawk]

That probably explains why the battery died. I troll all day long at idle, or just above and only run it at high rpm periodically. I'll continue to battery charge it at home and hope for some help from the kicker periodically, thanks for the help.

[nioocharles]

Doc

I have a 35hp jet evenrude mid 90's. Today when using the boat it ran fine for about 4-5 minutes at cruizing speed then it slowed down and would not run past idle without crapping out, let it sit for 30 minutes or so and ran the kicker. Tried it agian same thing. Almost acted like it was running out of gas but vent was open and it had gas. Any ideas that I could check without taking it to the shop? If not who works on evinrude small jets.

Thanks for your help.

[Boat Doc']

I would check for contaminated fuel, may need to clean the tank and line and flush or clean the carbs. Staffs or Oreon City Marine should be able to help you out.

[mudde]

Hi Boat doc,
I just got a new to me boat, it has a 1999 Suzuki motor 115 HP motor witha pump. My question is when I'm running at lower rpm's it makes a sound like a lean pop? It's a two stroke motor, with fuel injection, and oil injection. First off I did not think 2 stroke could get a lean pop.

Do you have any ideas as I don't want to hurt this motor it seems like a good running motor with only 250 hours.

Thanks in advance.

Eric

[Boat Doc']

I would run some injecter cleaner thru it after changing plugs and fuel filters. If it still pops check the synch and link and all the sensors.

[Halfhooked]

Hey Boat Doc;

I have my new 20' sled that is due for its first oil change at 10 hrs. It has a marine power 350 PFI with the 3 stage pump.

The dealer says use a straight 40 wt oil in the crankcase.
I am a BIG advocate of Synthetic oils and their benefits. Mobil 1 makes a 15W-40 Full synthetic, but NOBODY makes a 40wt synthetic. Wouldnt this hndle the hig revs and viscosity issues better that a petroleum based straight grade?

What gives?

I also had a buddy that ran full syn with zero issues in a inboard jet and put some 1200 hrs on it.:shrug:

[snohonative]

Hi Doc,

I have the 2003 sport jet 175 with the weak spark on one bank. I moved the stator leads and the weak spark remained on the left side. Should I start my focus now on the switch box or regulator or neither? Thanks again for all the help.

[Boat Doc']

halfhooked, In my opinion once it's broke in synthetic should be fine, you might put another 10 hours on it before doing so.

[Boat Doc']

snohonative, try switching the switch boxes, if you still have the problem unplug the black with yellow stripe wire. If the problem goes away you have isolated it to the TKS module or the ignition harness. Those need to be disconnected individually to further isolate the problem.

[fishbait]

BD,

I had tilt motor problems on 115ELPTO. Up but no down.

Swapped the relays , a to b and b to a, and that solved the problem.

Had to be a bad connection in the relay plug/socket.

Thanks for your assistance.

Fishbait

[namu mac]

Doc, I have 25 hp merc don't know how old but it has shift in the tiller-blue decals. Last time it was used everything worked OK(2-3 years ago). Now it runs and shifts into forward fine but no reverse. Corroded cables or? Thanks

[Boat Doc']

pull in and out on the prop shaft, if it moves less than about 1/4 inch it would be a linkage or cable issue, if it's more than that it would be a lower unit issue.

[Gilligan]

I am having to replace my prop on a 98 Johnson the existing is a 15x17. I was told that I can get out of the hole faster with a different ratio on the prop can you give me any suggestions?


Thanks

[comefishy]

Boat Doc, I have a 2003 Mercury 4-stroke 9.9. It has no power and won't run in gear until it has run for several minutes on full choke, then another few minutes at half choke. Once it is fully warmed up, it runs fine. I have a friend with the same motor and he has the same issue. Is there anything that can be done to improve this situation?

[Slayer]

Boat Doc!

As Always you are a great source of info. I have a 2000 SmokerCraft Lodge that I bought about a year ago from Stevens. I noticed when I pulled up the floorboard that the floatation foam has became a big spong and its time to remove. What is the dissavantages(if any) besides not floating to not putting more foam back in? Not based upon a dealership but as a private owner perspective.

Thanks! :cheers:
Chris W

[Boat Doc']

Gilligan, the prop governs wide open throttle rpms. Assuming your prop is correct dropping down 2 inches in pitch will give you a much improved hole shot and may drop your top end slightly

[Boat Doc']

comefishy, first try adjusting the idle mixture richer (unsrew it). It may be behind a brass plug that will need to be drilled out. If that doesn't work the carb will need to be removed and thoroughly cleaned.

[Boat Doc']

Slayer, besides sinking if it got a lot of water in it there may be a potential liability if someone drowned because you modified the boat.

[Slayer]

I did'nt know if it would affect the structural integrity of the boat. As far as liablilty, not a person gets in to my boat without a PFD, no exceptions.

Thanks :cheers:

[Boat Doc']

As long as the boxes go back in and are reattached there won't be any structure issues

[Deandog]

Hey Boat Doc,
Newish Member here, I bought a used 200HP Merc from you all a couple weeks ago and have a question. I have an optimax manual that talks about "Priming" the oil injection system and also bleeding it. I did pinch the supply oil-line and pumped 10 psi air into the tank and started the motor up, but how can I confirm that it is primed and oil is flowing???

[Mr. Wilson]

Boat Doc'-Hope you can help and this is just a quick, easy fix! Just bought a used 2000 NR with Sport Jet 175 with only 170 hours on it. I've put 3 hours on it with no problems. It starts with 1st turn of the key, idles great & runs smooth.

Put gas in it the other day for the first time with no mixture (since it is oil injected), then took it out last night and it ran fine for 2 miles, shut it off to use the kicker and when I tried to start it to head for the dock, it wouldn't turn over. Thought the battery was dead, had it tested today and it's at full charge. Then thought it might be the starter, but it also tests good. Took out the spark plugs and water came out the bottom plug on both sides. When I hook up the external water source, it flows out of the bottom cylinder as fast as it goes in. There was no indication that I had a problem until it wouldn't start (no alarms sounded and it ran great).

Is this a blown head gasket or do I have a cracked block, what could it be?? I should get an alarm if it was overheating and I didn't.

Also, I know there were problems with the plastic oil injection pump gear and there may have been a recall on this part, how can I find out if there is a recall on the part on my motor?

If it is the head gasket, and I replace it, what other precautions should I follow before starting the motor?

Lastly, how can I check that my oil injection system is functioning properly?

Your advice is much appreciated!!! THANK YOU!!!

[Boat Doc']

deandog, you prime the oil pump by shifting from neutral to forward 3 times within 10 seconds with the key on engine not running. Let the pump run until it stops. This applies to optimax only. The opti has sensers that sound the horn if the system is not functioning.

[Boat Doc']

mr wilson, water can get into the lower cylinders thru the exhaust with a heavy load in the back of the boat. For water to get into the cylinders when flushing assuming it's plumbed correctly would have to be a powerhead base gasket or adapter plate gasket. If you got me the engine serial number I could tell you if it has any recalls. There is a flow test for the oil pump. However if it's smoking and using oil it should be fine. I can get the specs if you would like.

[Dadn96]

Hey Doc

I have a 2007 Alumaweld with the 3 liter sterndrive,this thing is very hard to start the first time of the day,it has the TKS system,but is still very hard to start after sitting a day or two,after starting it runs great,I have took the spark arrester off while in the driveway and it doesn't seem to be getting any fuel until after alot of cranking.
My question is can I replace the Manual fuel pump with a Electric pump with out modifying or changing the Carburetor,or is there some other fix I should be looking at.

Thanks!
Dale

[Mr. Wilson]

mr wilson, water can get into the lower cylinders thru the exhaust with a heavy load in the back of the boat. For water to get into the cylinders when flushing assuming it's plumbed correctly would have to be a powerhead base gasket or adapter plate gasket. If you got me the engine serial number I could tell you if it has any recalls. There is a flow test for the oil pump. However if it's smoking and using oil it should be fine. I can get the specs if you would like.


Yes, please check if there are recalls. 0E371792. Since there is water in the cylinders when I hook up the hose, can I turn it over to flush the water out of the cylinders without hooking it up to water? Will that cause damage to the cylinder walls? Overheating?

You say "assuming it's plumbed correctly" what does that mean? I'm hooking the hose up to the water inlet.....

[fishrepellor]

Hi Boat Doc,
I have a 2000 9.9 hp Mercury 2stroke that seems to be leaking oil from the prop. I will be bringing it in soon, but wondering what could be wrong and about how much.
Thanks

[ottaviomel]

Hi Boat Doc, I have a 84 merc 60hp. Only getting spark on #1 cylinder. Any ideas?

[Boat Doc']

dadn96, I would guess the fuel may be leaking out of the floatbowl, you could look into venturi area after shutting it down to see if there is any leakage. Or the carb is not properly adjusted.

[Boat Doc']

Mr Wilson, no recalls. And yes, no, no as long as it's not running

[Boat Doc']

fishrepelor, the oil is probably normal. If the gwear oil is full it's just unburned oil you mix with your gas

[Boat Doc']

ottoviamel, I would guess switch box first and possibly trigger

[Crayfin]

I have a 1999 225 merc.....when I am sitting at idle sometimes the alarm comes on for no reason? Getting oil...etc When I jump on it to get out of the hole, the motor just stalls out, then catches and runs fine? Any ideas? Runs perfect once it is going

[Boat Doc']

Try changing the engine mounted fuel filter, may have water or debris in it.

[Crayfin]

Will do and thanks:D

[ottaviomel]

ottoviamel, I would guess switch box first and possibly trigger
Ok I'll check them out. Thank you!

[Pandion]

Boat Doc,

I have a 94 8hp Suzuki that is seldom used as a kicker. I put new spark plugs in it the other day and wanted to test run the motor. The motor started ok but I noticed the exhaust where the coolant water also discharges was running dry. After about 2 minutes of running the water pump kicked in and started spitting a good stream of water. When it did begin to spit water the engine was hot enough to spit a burst of steam just like a steam iron but quickly cooled down.

I haven't ever noticed the steam spurt nor the delay in getting the coolant water to begin spitting water.

Is this normal or is my water pump defective?

Thanks

[Boat Doc']

Sounds like you ay have been running it in a bucket or on a hose. If so put it in rthe water and run it. It should start peeing within a few seconds, if not you should check the water pump.

[LiveBait]

Boat Doc,

I went to change the spark plugs on my boat. It is a 1990 Alumaweld with a 351 Redline engine. A deep socket will not fit over the spark plugs do to the exhaust manifold being in the way. To clarify, I am not talking about the sockets handle or using an extension. It is the socket itself that does not have enough room to go over the spark plugs. Is there a different tool or am I going to have to remove the manifold to get to the plugs? Thanks...

[Boat Doc']

Try a different socket, I think snap on will fit or remove the manifold, be careful about breaking bolts.

[LiveBait]

Hi Boat Doc,

I think you may have misunderstood my question. I would prefer not to remove the manifold if it can be avoided. I have tried 3 different sockets. None of which will slip over the spark plugs do to the manifold being too close to the spark plugs. An Ifisher mentioned NAPA may have a special socket made for this purpose. Any thoughts? Thanks...

[Boat Doc']

I have never removed a manifold to change a plug. I use snap on tools. napa may also have something that will work.

[Wreckless]

I'm rigging my new Duck boat. I'm hanging a 1986 Merc 50 on the transom....Are there torque specs for the clamps or the 3/8" SS bolts that go thru the transom?

Thanks in advance.

[Deandog]

Boat Doc- I have a 2005 200Merc Jet Tiller. The power trip switch in the tiller has 1 Green wire....and 1 Blue Wire. I assume the Green is the ground, Blue is the Positive. Can you confirm that? Or is that an aftemarket switch with somebody color-blind routing the wires? Thanks in advance.

[Boat Doc']

Wreckless, As tight as you can turn them by hand on the clamps and good and tight on the bolts or around 30lbs if you need a torque wrench

[Boat Doc']

Deandog, neither is a ground. Blue is up green is down there should also be a purple wire that is hot with the key on.

[fish-on-bend]

This question is about the ethanol fuel we must now use. The more I read the more confused I get. I have a 2006 boat with 2006 Yamaha 115 and T8. What if anything should I add to my fuel or do that I didn't do before? My tank has already been mixed, old with new ethanol mix gas.

[Boat Doc']

Don't add anything to the fuel other than what the factory recommends and make sure you have a water seperating fuel filter. Dump it out on occasion to check for water and increase or decrease that interval until you no longer see water or debris.

[jimsbuddy]

If compression and a leak down test is ok I think you still have a carb issue. Carbs may need to come apart and carefully and thoroughly cleaned. We do not service Yamaha products.
You are correct... I pulled them off yesterday and the problem moved from a #1 cyl issue to a #1,3 issue... After two tries at cleaning them at home. Im thinking there might be a jet/float issue so I took it in this morning...

[moc]

I have a 2007 20' blackhawk w/ 115 optimax and 9.9 kicker. I want to connect the two for trolling, any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

[Boat Doc']

The only way to run the troller remotely would be with a TR1, or other electric/hydraulic means. Goetz and Panther come to mind

[Grizzly II]

Hi Boat Doc.
I just took delivery on a 2000 Trophy 2052 with a Mercruiser 4.3 engine purchased from a private party. When the boat is moored, we are getting a gasoline odor in the cabin and sleeping area. Not like fumes, but the smell of gas. It seems to be coming from the starboard side somewhere but can't locate it outside and no smell on the bulkheads. There is no gas odor what so ever in the engine compartment. I cannot figure out from the very limited owners manual where the vent for the gas tank is. The gas tank filler cap is tight and the gasket is good. No smell when the boat is underway. Any thoughts would be appreciated. The previous owner states he never noticed the problem, but then he only ran the boat 80 hours in seven years.

Thanks
Rod Harder

[Boat Doc']

If there is no external vent it's probably incorporated into the fill. Most common things to check would be fill and vent hose clamps, sender gasket leaking which should be under a deck plate somewhere in the floor and lastly a leak in the tank itself.

[Grizzly II]

Thanks.

[snohonative]

Hi Boat Doc,

I have a 2005 4 stroke 8hp Mercury. The water exiting from the cooling system has a very week flow and the water seems to be getting a little warm. Is there any quick fix to testing if it is clogged and if not clogged what steps should I take from here? Thanks in advance for the help.

Snohonative

[Boat Doc']

either disconnect the hose where it attaches to the cowl and blow out the fitting or stick a paper clip in the fitting to dislodge whatever is in there.

[snohonative]

Hi Doc,

Would I need to try the same procedure even if I flush the motor through the lower unit with the ear muffs attachment? That was how I was flushing it when I noticed there was weak flow through the tell-tale. Thanks Again.

[Boat Doc']

If the fitting at the cowl is clear you may not have had a lot of water flow thru the flusher. Run it in the water and will it probably pee fine

[rags]

Boat Doc,
I have a Mercury 9.9 manual start. I noticed a few weeks ago when pulling the rope start it would catch and almost break my wrist. Today when starting it was doing the same thing but wouldn't start. I pulled several times and it seem to be hanging up while pulling. Sometimes it would pull out ok and others it would hangup. I must have pulled it 25 times and it finally caught and started. Any ideas? The motor runs great but I think the pull start is the problem.

[Boat Doc']

The cable that goes to the top of the recoil assy may be damaged, if so it will need to be replaced.

[Thunder jet]

Hi Boat Doc-

I saw this question regarding re powering a sport jet in the forum and thought maybe you could provide some input.

"I have like 800 hours on my 175SJ...... might be time to consider repowering. Is using the 200SJ FI an option for me"?

Thanks

[Boat Doc']

I think the pump would have to be replaced also because of the different exhaust- may not be cost effective.

[Wreckless]

OK everyone told me how easy it was going to be to change the water pump on my good ol' 1976 Johnson 6hp. It came apart pretty easy, the pump came off fine BUT when I start to out on the new pump things look different. They warned me at the parts place that the impeller looked different, that's OK. but there is a fibre gasket, a metal "gasket" and another small metal "cup" that the impeller was in. The original pump just has the housing and the impeller...SO, my question (s) is (are)....Is there a particular order for the gaskets? Is the metal "gasket" needed? Is the little metal cup just to hold the impeller in the box? Can I just install the pump with the fibre gasket and be fine? If I install it in the order that seems to look right (Pump, fibre gasket, metal gasket) What keep water from seeping down the drive shaft? For that matter WHAT DOES keep water from seeping down the drive shaft?

Am I just STUPID? (I know the answer to that one, but..................:crazy:)

I lost sleep over this one last night. When I finally realized I could ask here I rested easier!!! I REALLY do appreciate the fact that I can ask questions here. Stevens Marine has been good to a lot of people, I should know, 3 of the 5 outboards in my yard are from Stevens!:meme:

[Jsteel]

I have a 19 ft Alumaweld Stryker, 2002, with 90 hp OB. Looking to add a washdown pump, but having problems with space to install. I'm tryin to create space in the battery area, but have both a house and starting battery there, and space is a question. Is it possible and safe to remove flotation foam from the transom area and add the pump, then place the foam under the floor boards?

[Boat Doc']

yes, yes, no, no, nothing, nothing. The impeller seals water out of the water pump. The seals under the water pump prevent water from entering the gearcase. The order should be gasket, metal plate, impeller and the cup installed in the upper housing and slid on top of the impeller. If the gasket is cut out for the impeller then it should go on top of the plate.

[Boat Doc']

As long as the foam is going back in it will be fine.

[Wreckless]

THANK YOU!!!!

:meme::flowered:

[dragon67]

Hey guys, I have a question that you guys might be able to answer. When I go forward with my throttle it doesn't seem like it gets going until about half way. I took the top off and there is alittle like elbow piece, where the throttle has a roller that moves in it. When I move the throttle all the way forward it looks like it isn't getting to the top of this elbow, when I first move the throttle it doesn't start moving the roller in it until about half way. Do I need to adjust the throttle some how?? thx for any help:passout:I should also say that it is a 50hp merc 4stroke.

[Boat Doc']

At idle the roller should be centered on the mark that is in the arm it travels in.

[dragon67]

That is the top center mark right? In the elbow runway, not sure how to correctly describe it. But there was a top mark and I lined my roller up with it. It was kinda at the beginning of the elbow. Thx for the help, I still need to get out and test it, see if I did it right and the rpms don't go too high since it is suppose to be 5500 to 6000rpms.
At idle the roller should be centered on the mark that is in the arm it travels in.

[rags]

Hi Boat Doc,
Left my 19ft SuperVee with you guys yesterday. Want a oil change etc. on my 9.9 Mercury and the starter rope checked out. Sometimes I get a recoil when starting. Also, I have been running my 150 OptiMax for two years with no problems. Purchased it from you guys in June 06'. Great motor! I did notice the last time out my Smart guage showing a blinking bell and motor. The manual says it means there was a motor malfunction. I do get the alarm going off every now and then when I rev the motor. Thanks for your good service. I'm sure I will be hearing from you next week.
John

[tyeeterror]

Hey Boat Doc,
I just ordered a 175 hp Merc Optimax 20'' shaft (jet), and tiller from your Tigard store. I know its a little late, since I already made my order, but I wanted to know what you thought of this motor. I liked the weight to HP ratio, as I have a single axle trailer and did not want to overload it. I have been running Mercurys for years and have they have stood up to the abuse. Just looking for your opionin

[Boat Doc']

Optis have been very reliable and economical. I think you made a great choice

[Willie Ketchum]

Hey Boat Doc -

I want to install a tiller on my 1992 Merc 200 Jet. I have a tiller, and made a spacer so the tiller clears the hood latch. Now I find the throttle cable is too short by 2 inches. Do they come in different lengths? How do I order one?

Thanks, WK

[Boat Doc']

you can get a piece of 1/2 inch delrin rod and make one or get one from us that you would cut to length

[Boster]

Dear Boat Doc, Why are sport-jets so hard to start? If I have'nt run mine in 3 -4 days, it seems to take forever to fire. Is there a sure fire starting sequence that will speed things up a bit? I occasionally run a bottle of the quicksilver fuel system cleaner.
My old sportsjet was a hard starer also. The guy I sold it to called yesterday to ask if I had any Ideas what He could do to help it start faster he said he starts it in gear ??? and that seems to help. Do u have any idea that would help him??
Boster

[ripthevolcano]

Boat Doc,

Or for me Kicker Doctor. I just got a Yamaha T8 electric start. My friend sold it to me but in transport laid it on the wrong side. He didn't read the sticker I guess. Anyway I mounted it on my boat and after cleaning the oil out of the cowling, disassembling the carborator and cleaning, changing the oil fould plugs, and cleaning out the cumbustion chamber, draining and replacing the oil (before running) it will now die after warming up. It runs fine when cold starting but after it comes up to temp (5 min) it acts like it is starving for fuel. fuel line is fine and I can see that it is getting gas in the filter. I can't give it any gas (falls on its face) and it eventually dies. Any ideas?

[boutdoorhunter]

Boat Doc, were would I go for parts to a baystar 4600 hyd. steering? My steering froze up and I had to cut the stainless tube that runs thru the pivot tube. Thank you.

[Boat Doc']

Boster, if you wire the fuel pump to a momentary switch you can prime the carbs prior to cranking. There has been many posts if you do a search on how to do it

[Boat Doc']

ripthevolcano, the idle circuit in the carb is plugged and needs to be cleaned. Need to take it apart and thoroughly clean it.

[Boat Doc']

Any dealer including us could help you. Give us a call 1-800-225-7023 ask for Rick

[Steel-head]

'06 Optimax 150, ran great all day last time out until I went to pull anchor, motor sputtered and then died. fired back up easily but ran really rough. I increased idol speed it still ran rough then alarm beeped twice, slowly which I think means fuel. brought it home checked the filters by pouring contents into a clear container, no water, no debris. Plenty of gas in the tank. Any thoughts?

P.S. just how fuel efficient are these engines rated at. I have done four trips this year averaging about 20 miles or more per trip and I went to fill up and it only took 8 gallons! and I definatly have a lead right hand.

[Loneangler]

Boat Doc; I am looking for an aluminum mount for a bow mount trolling motor for my 16' Tracer. I have seen pictures of the mounts Alumaweld makes for their Talon and Stryker. Is there anything available that will fit my Tracer? Will the Alumaweld mount fit?
Thanks, Frank

[Boat Doc']

steel-head, most common things are- engine mounted oil reservoir is low and water in the filter on the engine. It's the one with the red cap.

[Boat Doc']

loneangler, we fab our own brackets to the boat, could do yours

[Loneangler]

loneangler, we fab our own brackets to the boat, could do yours
Sounds like an excellent idea...but unfortunately, I am in Reno! Too far to take the boat for a proper job. Any other ideas? I really appreciate your help.

Frank

[Steel-head]

steel-head, most common things are- engine mounted oil reservoir is low and water in the filter on the engine. It's the one with the red cap.


I checked both of those things and they looked fine, any other ideas? it is scheduled to go to you guys to look at june 19th, just trying to eliminate any simple issues.

[Boster]

We tryed this once and I didn't respond in the correct format. So here we go again. We will try to answer all maintenance or mechanical related questions within a day or two excluding weekends and holidays. I have a 225 Merc optimax and love it. If u use DFI oil and keep your batteries charged no problems with that engine. You guys put it on the bentz I now own. I keep blowing the 20 amp fuses and cannt start my engine and lose all tilt etc the rest of my toys work I change the fuse under the cowling and it runs fine for a while than all of a sudden to just dies with a blown 20 amp tiny fuse. Any suggestions???
Boster.

[Boster]

Dear Boat Doc, Why are sport-jets so hard to start? If I have'nt run mine in 3 -4 days, it seems to take forever to fire. Is there a sure fire starting sequence that will speed things up a bit? I occasionally run a bottle of the quicksilver fuel system cleaner.
Hey chummer had a hard time with my sport jet until I changed the key to work if I hold it in so fuel can get to the engine. Safety concerns in an enclosed cabin is the reason they changed the system. If you use your trolling engine for a while and try to start your SJ it loses it prime and you have to reprime and if you dont convet to something else thats what s happening you are cranking and cranking just to pull fuel up. Thats the reason for hard starting what u do to fix it is a safety concern
boster

[Boat Doc']

If you have remote controls the most common problem is the trim wires chafing inside the control handle

[Willie Ketchum]

Quote:

Hey Boat Doc -

I want to install a tiller on my 1992 Merc 200 Jet. I have a tiller, and made a spacer so the tiller clears the hood latch. Now I find the throttle cable is too short by 2 inches. Do they come in different lengths? How do I order one?

Thanks, WK

Reply:

you can get a piece of 1/2 inch delrin rod and make one or get one from us that you would cut to length

Next Problem:

OK, I was able to extend the outer cable and make a longer guide tube, but the inner cable is still too short. I called the parts guys at Stevens and he didn't know about a cut to fit inner cable. How do I get one? the overall length of the existing cable is 23-1/2", the wire part is 8", wire needs to be about 11-12". Part #?

Thanks again!

[Boat Doc']

There is not a longer wire which is why we make a longer plastic piece. You may also need to fab a anchor bracket to hold the barrel in place

[Willie Ketchum]

OK, thanks

[deadstick]

Help Boat Doc'

My 210 sportjet lost spark on the water Saturday. Could not get any spark jump between the coils and unplugged wires. Checked spark at the top plug on each side, nothing on the right side and very little on the other.

Ran great before shutting down to fish then nothing. Lost the stator a couple of years ago and that failure was weak spark on one bank, but it would still run. Could it be the stator again or is there another component I should look at?

[iampapajack]

Boat Doc.. 21' NW Jet 350 GM Hami 212....
Heavy, and I mean heavy vibration, shakes whole boat , over 2000 RPM. Dissconnect driveshaft, no more vobration. Looked through bottom intake through rear and can't see any obstruction or anything stuck to impeller. I did launch on a ramp that had some wood debris. The last time the boat was out , about a week ago there was no problem. Thought I felt some looseness in forward u-joint so I replaced them both while I had the driveshaft out. Question....could wood or something else still be lodged somewhere where I cant see it with bucket on? If so how far should I have to dismantle to be able to see all. Lastly is there something else I should be looking for? Thanks....Jack

[Boat Doc']

deadstick, check the lanyard switch, it may have been bumped.

[Boat Doc']

lampapajack, assuming the driveshaft and ujoints are assembled correctly then I would loiok for something on a impeller blade. If you can't see everything from the intake you may have to remove the impeller.

[deadstick]

deadstick, check the lanyard switch, it may have been bumped.

I will as soon as I figure out what that is. Can you point me in the right direction. It's a sportjet not an outboard.

Thanks again.

[Wilmyster]

Boat Doc,

I have a 2007 talon with a 50 horse merc 2 stroke I purchased at your place there last may. Saturaday while backing down to set my anchor i had a rude noise and sound from the motor. I discovered that the "Anode" not sure that is correct term, the little rudder above the prop had come loose and guess what it hit of course. I talked to the service dept today and they did not feel my warranty from Merc would cover this? I only have 45 hours on the motor. Is this something that needs to be checked on every trip? Should it not have LOK TITE on the threads? Service did offer me a discount on a new prop, which I will probably do. this is not a complaint, I am just asking if this should have come loose?

Wil k

[warlo527]

1999 Sportjet 175. The motor runs perfect except for idle. It wants to die and I have to put her in forward and keep the rpm's up around 1500 rpm. Spark is good, compression is 125 on all 6. I have had my carbs synched last year. Run quickleen occasionally. It idles forever on the hose in the driveway. I tried to bump up the idle as per your suggestions on a previous post, but it still wants to die. It did help tho. Somebody told me to check my bleeder lines, but have no idea what those are and how to do it. There is no hesitations or bogs otherwise. It does kinda surge when first start as I pull away from the dock...1500 rpm-2000 rpm when first cold..i accelerate real slow to warm her up good. Any suggestions. There is no oily gas coming from the carb throats area.

[Boat Doc']

deadstick, lanyard switch if you have one is a partially covered toggle that says off and run. If you don't have one then you will need to look at other ignition components

[Boat Doc']

wilmyster, we should let mercury determine whether it's covered by warranty. If you can get me the serial number and parts that are required I can submit a claim

[Boat Doc']

warlo, I would remove the airbox and at the rpm it tries to die slowly put your hand over the carbs. If it starts to run better then the carbs need to be gone thru.

[Wilmyster]

wilmyster, we should let mercury determine whether it's covered by warranty. If you can get me the serial number and parts that are required I can submit a claim

Ok sounds fair, the serial number on the prop is 73134A40P12, the little rudder was not damaged. If you need the serial number to the motor, let me know. I will probably stop by today or tomorrow and purchse a new prop, and wait for the decision. Regardless I need a prop. Many Thanks, Wil K 503-475-2758:applause:

[deadstick]

deadstick, lanyard switch if you have one is a partially covered toggle that says off and run. If you don't have one then you will need to look at other ignition components

OK. I have no lanyard switch. My manual says check continuity of blk/yel wire from harness (unplugged) and ground with the key switch on. Results where a reading of infinity with the key switch on and 0 ohms in the off position. That has me a little confused but I think it is backwards of what it is suppose to be. Am I correct on this meaniing the Key switch is the problem?

Thanks for all your help.

[Boat Doc']

If the engine runs good with the black yellow wire disconnected then the problem is the switch or harness. There should be little to no continuity between that wire and ground

[dbuechler]

Was out friday fishing and the boat ran fine, then sunday it ran lousey. I had an EXHAUST LEAK on the right head. I have a RED LINE 351 Ford 1990. The owner before me did or some who worked on it did a bad job. They did not get 1 on the mounting bolts in properly. I did carefully ran a thread chaser thru the threads and saved the hole, and the bolt is tight in the hoe. But I need to find some EXHAUST GASKETS for it to put it back togather. Can you help?

[Boat Doc']

should be able to go to the auto parts store and get some header gaskets for that engine

[Boster]

I have a 225 Merc optimax and love it. If u use DFI oil and keep your batteries charged no problems with that engine. You guys put it on the bentz I now own. I keep blowing the 20 amp fuses and cannt start my engine and lose all tilt etc the rest of my toys work I change the fuse under the cowling and it runs fine for a while than all of a sudden to just dies with a blown 20 amp tiny fuse. Any suggestions???
Boster.
boat doc found the problem When I turned the steering wheel in a certain way it caused the engine to die. The wires leading from the engine to shifting box had a short it in.Hard to find problem
Thanks,
Boster

[stormed350]

Dear Boat Doc, I have a 1970 Mark twain with a 250 ci engine (inline six) and a four barrel carb. It runs great on the hose but when I take it out on the lake it runs pretty good at first launch (idle is a little rough) and then when I get it on plane it runs good for a couple of minutes and then the engine dies. It starts to lose power at first and then just dies completely. After that it's hard to start and then the idle is way too high (1500 rpm). After it starts again you put it in gear and it dies. The next day on the hose it runs great again in neutral, put it in gear and it runs too. I have emptied out the gas tank and put in fresh gas and changed the fuel filter. Compression is good (150 to 160 on all six), checked by a boat mechanic. There is a slight bit of blow-by out of the oil cap. I can't see any water in the oil but there is kind of a fuel smell in the oil. The mechanic did say the carb is sticky and may need to be rebuilt. Can you give me any clue as to what is causing this. Thanks a bunch.

[Boat Doc']

Sounds to me like you have a possible bad fuel pump and probably need to have the carb rebuilt. The fuel pump will allow fuel in the crankcase if it goes bad.

[uboatcdr]

Can I add octain boost to my tank gas? not gal's of it... just what is recomended., You can run it in a car just fine. I have a new yamaha f250 f/s and a 147 gal tank, is there any reason why you can't run it in an outboard. The owners manual does not address this, only that they recommend 89 octain.

Thanks
Pete

[Boat Doc']

Only issue I can think of would be if it contains alcohol and if it does if you would significantly increase the percentage beyond the 10% it is rated to run on.

[seaworthy]

boat doc



how do you adjust my shift cable on a suzuki df140? it grinds sometimes when i put it reverse dealer told my my cable got stetched any advice?

[Boat Doc']

You want the throw from neutral to forward and neutral to reverse to be the same. You would adjust the cable end at the engine to get it right. If the cable is stiff it may need to be replaced. If it's adjusted correctly you should shift it with a crisp motion to limit the grinding noise.

[seaworthy]

thanks i will give it a try tonight

[Premo]

Boat doc,

I have a 2004 200 mercury 2 stroke. My problem is that the internal oil reservoir is not filling up off of the main oil tank. I am having to fill the small reservoir every trip and it usually only takes a few hours before the buzzer sounds again. I am thinking it's a leak in the hose or tank? Any suggestions?

[Boat Doc']

Check the following- remove the pickup cap from the tank in the boat and see if there is gelled oil blocking it. If so clean and drain the tank. Next make sure both caps are tight, inspect both hoses for kinks or cuts and finally if it still doesn't pressurize remove the fitting that the hose that attaches to the block is attached to and see if the check valve is compromised. If so it will need to be replaced. Also check that the hoses are hooked up correct, air to air and oil to oil.This assumes the engine has good compression and runs good otherwise.

[1pump]

Yo, Boat Doc-

I have an '87 Merc 25M with the WMC carb, and either the carb butterfly or throttle shaft seized up. It happened at the ramp, so being in a hurry I knocked the butterfly loose so the throttle would work, but I bent the butterfly in the process, with predictable results (it won't idle).
I just wondered if you've heard of a carb butterfly or a throttle shaft seizing up like that, and does it mean that the carb bore or throttle shaft bore is shot. I couldn't see a ridge in the carb, and once I got it loose it seemed to work OK (except for the bent butterfly). It sat for 6 months before this happened.

Thanks

[Boat Doc']

It's not uncommon, I haven't seen one yet that with some heat, patience and wd40 that wouldn' free up. Of course you need to see if you can straighten the butterfly- may have to replace the carb if you can't

[Williedrifter]

Boat Doc,

I have a low hour 99 Yamaha fuel injected 2 stroke 40 horse outboard. With all the talk about the grade of todays fuel I am curious about seperaters. I live on the coast and run the motor at least monthly usually much more with a portable 7.5 gallon tank/ and stabil. Do you think i need to install a fuel water seperater for this setup? I hear different things.

Thanks

[Boat Doc']

If you dump the tank before refilling you would be ok. I would recommend one just in case you got some water in the tank. It would prevent it from getting to the motor.

[Cold Snack]

Boat Doc:
Have a 70hp Suzuki 4 stroke, ten years old. Has always run flawlessly until this year. Took it out for the first time this year a few weeks ago. It sputtered at all rpms, except idle, for 15 minutes. Then it ran awesome the rest of the day. Thought I had to blow something through it. Took it out again last weekend and it did the same freakin thing. The gas tank was filled last fall and had Stabil put in it. When serviced last year, the fuel filters were fine. Any ideas why this problem would come and go like that? Thanks in advance for your help! :bowdown:

[ET]

Boat Doc,

1985 70hp 2-stroke Yamaha.... today I head out for the first trip in quite a while. The tach works at first, then starts fluttering, then stops working at all. The motor starts and runs fine.

I check my battery voltage and sure enough I'm not charging the battery either.

From experience with an old 70hp Johnson I think.....rectifier.... I buy a new one, install it and no change.

Where should I look next?

[Boat Doc']

Coldsnack, check the filters again, check wiring connections, and battery connections. From there you need to try to isolate whether it's ignition or fuel. Might be time to take it to a dealer.

[Boat Doc']

ET, if the charging system functions now I would look at replacing the tach, If it doesn't look at wiring to and from the rectifier or the stator.

[ET]

Sorry, I guess I wasn't clear. The motor is running fine, but the charging system is not working, nor is the tach. It seems my rectifier is fine.

Here is my question. Using a multimeter, how can I test to see if my stator is working? I see two green wires coming from the stator to the rectifier. With the engine running can I disconnect those and test the stator output? What should I find?



ET, if the charging system functions now I would look at replacing the tach, If it doesn't look at wiring to and from the rectifier or the stator.

[Boat Doc']

with the wires disconnected your going to see ac voltage that will rise with rpms. or check continuity, no opens or shorted to ground

[mykai2]

Boat Doc~ I have fuel flow problem. Under load both engines will start to
surge. I've changed filters, cleaned tank, changed check valves, pulled and inspected pickup screen. I isolated 1 engine on to a seperate fuel system and it still is doing it. When I pump the bulbs the engines will run fine for about 5 mins. I think now that it is the fuel pumps but both going at roughly the same time???? :passout:They are 115f/s Suzk. o.b. '02 with 1000 hours. What do you think???

[ET]

with the wires disconnected your going to see ac voltage that will rise with rpms. or check continuity, no opens or shorted to ground


Thank you! I just went out and checked things again. Fired it up and the tach kind of worked, just doesn't seem to match engine speed....

So I disconnected the green wires from the stator and at 1200 rpms or so I was getting 3-4 volts AC, when I rev'd motor to 2500 rpms(est) I would get 5-6 volts AC. Curious, I reconnected the green wires back to the rectifier and then disconnected the red wire from it. Reading the DC voltage from the rectifier I was getting 3.5 volts DC.... Shouldn't that be in the 13-14 volt range?

So, to me it appears that I have a stator that is going bad. Do they go out like this? It seems it just isn't sending the voltage out like it should.

Could I replace just the Charge Coil ($80) or do I have to change the whole stator assembly ($275)? I'm going to pull the flywheel and see what is going on in there.

Thank you so much for holding my hand.

[Boat Doc']

I agree with the voltage. I don't have any parts info for yamaha. The stator you would change would be the one the green wires go to. Don't overlook the flywheel magnets. make sure they aren't loose or missing.

[Steele4]

Boat Doc,
My "Doral splash" with a 97 sportjet 120xr runs fine for 60 min. or so then will start to stutter and cut out at WOT(36mph). If you back off of the throtle a little ( 5-8 mph slower) the engine runs fine, but if you accelarate the engins starts stuttering again. After sitting for an hour or so it will run at WOT for several minutes then start cutting out at WOT again. If I park it over night, the boat runs great at WOT for another hour or so and the symptoms start again. It seems to start cutting out at at WOT sooner if I do alot of spins and really load the engine repeatedly. It is never hard to start and idles and runs at all speeds except WOt afterthe problem starts. There is not a fuel restriction from the tank to the pump. I installed a primer bulb and a clear inline filter and the bulb is firm when the problem occurs. I sucked a reed into the block last season and replaced the pistons and block, installed a new fuel pump, new fuel lines, new flywheele,new reed block, cleaned and installed carb kits, disabled the vr oil pump, premix the gas at 40:1 and the problem is still happening. do you think the engine is overheating or could the "Stator?" be heating up and causing problems at WOT. I am pulling my hair out! please help.
Sincerely,
STEELE 4

[mykai2]

Boat Doc,
My "Doral splash" with a 97 sportjet 120xr runs fine for 60 min. or so then will start to stutter and cut out at WOT(36mph). If you back off of the throtle a little ( 5-8 mph slower) the engine runs fine, but if you accelarate the engins starts stuttering again. After sitting for an hour or so it will run at WOT for several minutes then start cutting out at WOT again. If I park it over night, the boat runs great at WOT for another hour or so and the symptoms start again. It seems to start cutting out at at WOT sooner if I do alot of spins and really load the engine repeatedly. It is never hard to start and idles and runs at all speeds except WOt afterthe problem starts. There is not a fuel restriction from the tank to the pump. I installed a primer bulb and a clear inline filter and the bulb is firm when the problem occurs. I sucked a reed into the block last season and replaced the pistons and block, installed a new fuel pump, new fuel lines, new flywheele,new reed block, cleaned and installed carb kits, disabled the vr oil pump, premix the gas at 40:1 and the problem is still happening. do you think the engine is overheating or could the "Stator?" be heating up and causing problems at WOT. I am pulling my hair out! please help.
Sincerely,
STEELE 4
Did you see my post earlier??? Are sure we don't have the same boat??
I hope Boat Doc can help us both

Mykia2

[Steele4]

Did you see my post earlier??? Are sure we don't have the same boat??
I hope Boat Doc can help us both

Mykia2

I hope so too, chasing problems with parts is expensive.

[mykai2]

I hope so too, chasing problems with parts is expensive.:yeahthat:

[Boat Doc']

I think you guys share the same symtoms but have different problems. On the suzuki if squeezing the bulb cures the problem I would lean towards the fuel pump. 1000 hrs they could certainly be worn. You could check the pressure and see if it's dropping off for confirmation. The sportjet sounds like it either has something floating in a carb bowl or more likely the stator is heating up and failing. Try checking resistance or output before and while it's missing and you should see it dropping below specs. Could also be a coil but I would still lean towards the stator.

[stevo]

Boat Doc', my T-8 (sorry not a merc!:)) started running real rough after it hit 100 hours. Some of the guys recommended cleaning the carb. Specifically what should I clean and is it OK to remove the flaot bowl?
Thanks

[Boat Doc']

Remove the float bowl and idle mixture jet and blow aerosol carb cleaner thru all the passages. If something appears plugged you may need a small wire to clear it out

[fishmaineac]

Help Boat Doc! I added a 1999 Mariner 9.9 4 stroke kicker to my 2005 1800 Lund Fisherman w/Merc 150XR6. The kicker is a manual start with a 6 amp charge system. Since adding the kicker my fishfinder gets full of interference as rpms on kicker motor increase. I have moved wires to try to isolate but no luck. If I unhook the kicker from the electrical system I get no interference. I am not sure I have my electrical system hooked up correctly-all I did was take the red wire off the voltage regulator and spliced a wire to it to run to my battery. I added a ground wire to the other grounds and ran it to my battery. Should I have purchased a kind of wiring kit? Please help.

[Steele4]

Boat Doc,
Can running my sportjet 120xr with a stator that heats and fails at wot damage my new block and pistons? I want to diagnose my problem on the lake but I don't want to damage the engine. Boat runs fine for 45 min to an hour before the symptoms show up and then runs like a top at all throtle positions except WOT (where engine starts missing).
Thanks,
Steele4

[Boat Doc']

fishmaniac, besides the other suggestions you may need an rf filter. Radio Shack probably has them

[Boat Doc']

steele4, as long as the timing isn't advancing it wouldn't hurt it. if the stator tests ok then you may be looking at a coil failure. make sure you check all the grounds paying close attn to ignition and voltage regulater

[Red Opossum]

My old sportsjet was a hard starer also. The guy I sold it to called yesterday to ask if I had any Ideas what He could do to help it start faster he said he starts it in gear ??? and that seems to help. Do u have any idea that would help him??
Boster

[ET]

I agree with the voltage. I don't have any parts info for yamaha. The stator you would change would be the one the green wires go to. Don't overlook the flywheel magnets. make sure they aren't loose or missing.

Received my part today and SUCCESS!:meme::meme: Thank You!! The boat is now ready for the 4th of July in Neah Bay.

[Boat Doc']

redopossum, priming the carbs by supplying power to the electrc fuel pump helps

[Scottxr175]

We tryed this once and I didn't respond in the correct format. So here we go again. We will try to answer all maintenance or mechanical related questions within a day or two excluding weekends and holidays.
Help Please Doc,
. I have a 1997 Merc. sportjet 175 which has no spark, either side. I was out of town with it when it first died. Local mech. said bad stator. He did not have one so when I returned home I ordered one from CDI. Installed it, no spark. I went through troubleshooting with CDI tech support to the point they said the ECU was bad. New ECU, still no spark. I have done the ohms tests as well as the DVA tests on the stator and trigger, they are good. I disconnected the voltage regulator, nothing, then unplugged the harness and manually turned over the engine via the selenoid to eliminate the nautral safety, kill switch lanyard and ignition switch, still not spark. I disconnected the black/yellow wire to the switch boxes, still no spark. I guess the only thing left are the switch boxes but I have a hard time believing they are both bad and failed at the same time. In additon to advice on the above can the switch boxes be tested? Thanks greatly for any help.

[Boat Doc']

Scott, check your pm

[mykai2]

Boat Doc~ I have fuel flow problem. Under load both engines will start to
surge. I've changed filters, cleaned tank, changed check valves, pulled and inspected pickup screen. I isolated 1 engine on to a seperate fuel system and it still is doing it. When I pump the bulbs the engines will run fine for about 5 mins. I think now that it is the fuel pumps but both going at roughly the same time???? :passout:They are 115f/s Suzk. o.b. '02 with 1000 hours. What do you think???

[quote=Boat Doc';2063239]I think you guys share the same symtoms but have different problems. On the suzuki if squeezing the bulb cures the problem I would lean towards the fuel pump. 1000 hrs they could certainly be worn. You could check the pressure and see if it's dropping off for confirmation.

Dear Boat Doc~ I went ahead and replaced one of the low pressure fuel pumps with a new one. Would of done both but somehow my parts were sent Boston instead of Olympia. When I tested it the old started doing it again right away but eventually the engine with new pump did it to. Could it be on the hi-pressure side? If it is I don't understand how both would go out at the same time. Do you have any suggestions? I'm at a lost

[Boat Doc']

[quote=Boat Doc';2063239]I think you guys share the same symtoms but have different problems. On the suzuki if squeezing the bulb cures the problem I would lean towards the fuel pump. 1000 hrs they could certainly be worn. You could check the pressure and see if it's dropping off for confirmation.

Dear Boat Doc~ I went ahead and replaced one of the low pressure fuel pumps with a new one. Would of done both but somehow my parts were sent Boston instead of Olympia. When I tested it the old started doing it again right away but eventually the engine with new pump did it to. Could it be on the hi-pressure side? If it is I don't understand how both would go out at the same time. Do you have any suggestions? I'm at a lost
your going to need to monitor the pressure to isolate the problem

[nioocharles]

1992 Evinrude Jet 35 hp, It will run for 10 minutes or so then throttle down to idle and when giving it more throttle it sputters and shakes, it is pumping out water from cooling, wait a few minutes and it is ok again for 10 minutes. It is a hard starter too.

Had the power head gasket replaced due to exhust leak and the mech thought that it solved the problem, thought the exhust was building up in cowling and starving the unit for air, but that did not solve problem.

Any sujestions aprreciated. Happy fouth

[rivermaster]

Help Boat Doc:

I have a 115 merc(pump) that has not been run for over a year. I am in the process of cleaning up the boat and what steps do i need to do for the motor. It ran fine the last time a ran in but has not been run in over a year. can i start it up just like normal or do i need to do anything special.

thanks for the help

[Clyde]

I have an very old ('86) 15 hp Mercury 2 stroke with electric start and it's becoming very diffecult to start. Takes about 10-15 times with the choke open for the engine to catch and stay idling. Choke closed and it won't start at all of course! And this is during the summer! Last winter it always started right up on the first or second try. What should I be looking for? Thanks in advance!

[Boat Doc']

nioocharles if it has good spark and compression make sure the reverse cup is all the way down in forward, try running it with the cover off to see if it's exhaust related. From there you may have sometning floating around in a carb or ignition component that may be getting warm and failing. Also try squeezing the primer bulb to see if it picks up

[Boat Doc']

rivermaster, start it up and run it for 15 min to 1/2 hour and dump out the fuel filter to see if there is any bad stuff in it. Then either use it or get rid of the bad stuff and run it.

[Boat Doc']

Clyde make sure the choke plunger moves freely and that the knob advances the throttle when you turn it. The linkage may need adjusting. It may be necessary to pull the knob in and out 2-3 times to have it start easily.

[smalldog]

I need to change the four rubber motor mounts on my old 50 horse merc.
I found a site that makes them out of solid aluminum for the v-6's...
They are really $ from Merc for the stock ones...what would be the thought of solid mounts on a little 50 HP?

[Clyde]

Great...I'll give that a try! Thanks! If no improvement I'll be bringing it in to you guys to mess with.

[Boat Doc']

smalldog, issues may be excessive vibration that could possibly effect idle if it shakes to bad. Vibration may transfer to the hull to where you may be able to feel it.

[Klamanite]

I have a 1999 Alumaweld Intruder with a 175hp Sportjet in it. I managed to get some debris (unsure of what exactly) in the cooling water intake at the impeller. I lost water flow out of the pee hole but didn't know it until the overtemp alarm went off. I shut it down immediately and the motor seems to be o.k. What can I do to access and clear the holes short of a teardown of the lower end of the drive assembly?

Thanks in advance :D

[ahub]

Boat Doc, I have an 06 90 hp Merc 2 stroke that has somehow gotten water in the oil reservoir. Unfortunately, I found this out after running it pretty hard and it quitting. Would just run out of power on plane and then die when I let off throttle. Restarted, but was not happy. Let it sit for awhile and tried again, same results. This is when I thought maybe plugged fuel filter and upon removing engine shroud found 2-3 inches of water in oil reservoir with oil on top. It ran for 4-5 minutes on water instead of oil. Should I drain water and try it or just consider it toast? It idled, but sounded more rattly than normal.
Thank you for your time and wisdom.

[Boat Doc']

klamanite, you will have to take it part way apart to access whatever is blocking the water intake

[Boat Doc']

ahub Can't hurt anything to drain off the water and flush the water out of the oil lines and pump. Also remove the float bowl drains and flush carbs with clean fuel. I would then run it with the fuel mixed 50-1 and see how it works.

[Pursuit]

Boat doc,
Here are some postings that I have been put up to the coast gaurd guy Dan on the salty dogs form. Have you ever heard of any flame control for a sportjet?

1st Post
Here is a copy of an email that was sent in May right after the Bounty on the Bay fishing tournament. This encounter happened the day before the tournament at the dock in Garibaldi. I went to the Coast Guard website and sent the email from there to a couple of different email addresses and never got any response. To say the least I was very unhappy with the way I was treated and then to find out that none of what the 2 young men were trying to tell me about my boat was true. I guess that what would be nice is if the Coast Guard could let the general public know what rules that we are supposed to follow that would be great. As was said in my email.
I don’t know what we as boaters would do with out the Coast Guard you all provide a great service to the country and us as individuals; I am very happy and relieved to have you all on the water with us. I am just a little frustrated. Thank you :applause:

This was sent to:
'uscgboating@heuristics.net'
To Whom It May Concern:
I was boarded at the dock in Garibaldi Oregon this last weekend and my boat was inspected. I have a 20 ft. boat with a 175hp inboard 4 stroke Sport Jet motor from Mercury. I would like to know what regulations that I am bound by? I was given a ticket for not having the inland Navigation rules on board which I found out later that they are only required on boats over 12 meters. Also I was sited for not having a Backfire Flame Control on my engine. I was told by the gentlemen that were inspecting my boat that the items that were missing from my boat were available at any marina. This was not true I went to all of the marinas in town and they new nothing about these items that I was required to have before I could operate my boat again. Fortunately the officer of the day came to my residence and looked at my boat and told me that the Nav Rules were not required and that the engine was ok. I also talked to Mercury Marine the manufacturer of the motor in my boat and they said that there was no Backfire Flame Control on my model engine.

The thing that concerns me here is I did not know that there were additional rules that I needed to be concerned with. Why am I not being educated? I have followed all the State rules that have required me to take Boaters education and get a boater’s education card. I keep all of my safety equipment up to par, I keep my boat serviced, and pick up trash out on the water and at the dock.

Could you give an idea what more that I need to do so that I won’t be held up at the dock for 45 minutes in 95 degree heat over something I knew nothing about and then as it turned out didn’t even need?

I don’t know what we as boaters would do with out the Coast Guard you all provide a great service to the country and us as individuals; I am very happy and relieved to have you all on the water with us. I am just a little frustrated. Thank you

Phillip Roberts
503-708-2729
__________________

2nd Post
Dan,
Thank you for your reply. I do see a problem with my boat complying with one of the requirements. The Backfire flame control on carbureted engines in enclosed spaces. My boat is factory built with a Sport jet from Mercury, it is an inboard carbureted 2 cycle engine. The engine is standing up with the carbs out the side of the block. There is no flame control devise on these installations from the factory and they are not built or available from Mercury Marine. So this may be part of the confusion. Who do we talk to about this?
Phil


Quote:
Originally Posted by USCGBoating http://www.ifish.net/board/images/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://www.ifish.net/board/showthread.php?p=2082389#post2082389)
Philip,

First off I want to apologize for any inconvenience. Yes, the two individuals were wrong and I am glad to see that he OOD made the effort to correct the problem. You can bet that the two individuals who conducted the boarding were “educated” once the discrepancy was discovered during the review.

As far as the E mail address you sent your letter two I am at a loss. I have never seen that mail address before. Don’t know where it goes but for the future any E mail address that goes to a Coast Guard member always will end in @uscg.mil. Please PM me a link to the web site you used and I will look into it.

As far as what is required:

* State numbering, 3 inch block letters on the forward half of the vessel.

* Certificate of numbers, original and current, on board, no photo copies.

* A CG approved lifejacket for everyone on board that must fit the intended wearer.

* One Type IV throwable PFD.

* Sound producing device.

* Backfire flame control on carbureted engines in enclosed engine spaces.

* Engine compartment ventilation for enclosed gas engines and storage areas, if built after July 31, 1980 must have a blower and label next to the ignition.

* Nav Lights, operating from sunset to sunrise or during restricted visibility.

* Visual distress signals:
One day non pyro and one noight non pyro or,
Three day pyro and one night non pyro or,
Three day night combination pyro

*Boater education card (state law)

Here is a link to the Federal requirements handbook and the Oregon State Marine Board Regulations.

http://www.uscgboating.org/safety/fedreqs/landing.htm (http://www.uscgboating.org/safety/fedreqs/landing.htm)

http://arcweb.sos.state.or.us/rules/OARS_200/OAR_250/250_tofc.html (http://arcweb.sos.state.or.us/rules/OARS_200/OAR_250/250_tofc.html)



Dan

[dlm]

Help Doc,

We have quite a discussion going on anther thread about the proper position of the outboard when trailering. I was told by a dealer to have it completely lowered if your boat sits high enough off the ground to permit that. If not, have it as low as possible.

Others say that the proper way is to trailer with your outboard all the way up. This "looks" balanced to me but I was told it was very hard on the transom.

What say you?

ps; we are all talking aluminum boats here.

[angler_andy]

Hi Doc.

I'm a mechanic by trade but new to outboards. Need to replace the impeller on my 30 hp Tohatsu model # M30A3. Any advice or parts break downs?

Thanks in advance.

Andy

[Boat Doc']

pursuit, i confirmed with mercury that the air box on sportjets has passed coast guard certification as long as it is unmodified.

[Boat Doc']

dim, my opinion is that you leave it all the down if you have clearance. If it must be tilted then a support from the trailer to the engine should be used. On heavy gauge aluminum boats Alumaweld, Willie, Northriver etc that have reinforcement where the troller attaches no support may be necessary. Example with the motor tilted up and you grab the skeg and try to move it up and down if the transom flexes it should be supported. Understand this is a opinion and I am not speaking for the manufacturers

[Boat Doc']

angler andy, water pump would be located on top of the lower unit. Should be a easy straight forward job. I don't have any books on them, you should be able to get a manual from joes or fishermans

[Pursuit]

pursuit, i confirmed with mercury that the air box on sportjets has passed coast guard certification as long as it is unmodified.


Thanks Boat Doc,
I think it was a misunderstanding by the young fellas that inspected my boat. :D

[Leaky pipes]

Boat Doc I have a 2005 Mercury Pro kicker the oil light has come on and stays on w/ key off and battery selector off ,the light goes off while running changed oil aprox 6 hrs ago.No problems w/RPMS & runs well checked oil level .Any suggestions?
Thanks,

[Boat Doc']

If the light stays on then something has to be powering it, are you sure you're not seeing a reflection? The light is normally powered by the ignition system and should go out after about 10 seconds

[Leaky pipes]

If the light stays on then something has to be powering it, are you sure you're not seeing a reflection? The light is normally powered by the ignition system and should go out after about 10 seconds
No it is not reflection I can see it at night and the difference when the engine is running, I realize it has to be powered by something but this started in the garage between trips.I'am thinking it is a idiot light /wiring problem and not oil pressure.
Thanks for your help

[ahub]

Boat Doc, thanks for your prompt response to my post of 7-9-08 regarding water in oil. This is a follow up. I drained all suspect oil, gas, water , etc. from carbs, fuel lines and filter, and oiler. Ran it for 5 minutes or so on the trailer in the water. Sounds like a rod knocking, but ran fine. Decided to go for a ride. Runs out well, probably like normal. Can't hear knocking under way but it's a jet and loud on plane. I've reviewed the service manual and am comfortable replacing bearings, if needed. Will they look burned, flat spot, missing? Can I inspect enough by removing reed cage? I'm contemplating trading this boat off and I'd like to make this right or I'd be inclined to run it to death. What do you think? Thanks again.

[Premo]

Will a lower unit and shifter off of a 2005 150L merc carb fit a 2004 200L merc jet carb? And will I need a bay kit when doing the swap? Looking to save a few bucks on fuel and I need a lower unit. Thanks again.

[Boat Doc']

Yes they are the same. If you are removing a jet you will need a bay kit and possibly lower the motor or run a stainless prop.

[dryflynut]

Hello, I have a 2000 Mercury 115 ELPTO outboard which is stuck in the up position. When I hit the trim down button nothing happens. The trim UP works just fine, and now the motor now being in the full upright position (horizontal to the boat), due to me trying to figure out what’s wrong.

When I hit the trim down button I can hear the Relay click, which I thought was the issue - bad relay. I just got back from purchasing a new relay and installing it and still nothing. I even tried using the trim down relay but still nothing.

It worked yesterday while out on the water, and when I got home and went to tilt the motor down.. nada….

Any suggestions?

Also is there a way to manually tilt the motor back down? I’m a little weary of playing with stuff (trying to figure it out on my own) while the motor is up in fear that it will come crashing down on my arm\hands.


Thanks in advance…

[Boat Doc']

Check connections, especially grounds. If it goes up it should go down. You could try switching the relays and see if it works, if not look closely at the green wire and look for breaks. There is a manual release located on the stbd lower side clamp bracket. It's a plastic screw recessed into the clamp bracket. Unscrew it 2-3 turns and it will blead down.

[Mr. Wilson]

Boat doc,
I was running low on fuel the other day and added 5 gallons from a gas can into my tank. Within minutes my water fuel seperator was full of water and I was dead in the water. What is the best procedure to remove the water from my tank?????

[Boat Doc']

You can siphon it using the existing fuel line. Remove the check valve fitting on the tank and run the hose thru the drain plug and into a suitable container. After putting in fresh gas check the filter frequently and remove any residual water. You will need a hose barb to take the place of the check valve.

[ahub]

Are you stumped or is advice on this a liability?

[Boat Doc']

Ahub, sorry didn't see it. If you pull the reed blocks off you won't see much of the bearings. But you could see if the crank or rods are rusty. If they are then you may want to tear it apart and replace the bearings. You may find that the crank or rod bearing surfaces are pitted. If so then they would need to be remachined or replaced. So in my opinion light rust or no rust-run it. Rust all over take it apart or run it till it dies.

[ahub]

thank you

[fishbait]

Boat Doc,

Few months ago you help me resolve a trim up but no trim down on Merc 115 jet. I just passed forward your advice to someone having same inssues, and now he has successfully trouble shot.

You rock and we appreciate what you do for us

Just a FYI to say THANKS