Stevens Marine Boat Doc'

[Green Machine]

Try setting the idle mixture richer. You access it by drilling out the brass plug on the side.


When you say drilling it out, do you mean really drilling it?? I see a brass plug on the side right next to the throttle adjustment. It looks like it has a very small hole in the center of it. How much should I drill this out?? I assume not very much. What happens if I drill the hole too big?? Thanks again.

Green Machine

[Wilmyster]

Boat Doc,

I have a new 50 horse 2 stroke recently purchased there at Stevens Marine. I recently hit some debries at Riffe lake in Wa. I noticed that a cast iron collar about half way down the motor shaft is snapped. It appears to be near the shift linkage? Not sure thats what that metal rod is. It has a ground wire attached to the outside part of it. It is held in place by 4 bolts, resembles a horse collar. Does it hurt to run the motor with this broken? I have scheduled service on it, however cannot get it in to you guys until July 30th :pray: Perhaps I could stop by and show someone in service on a motor in the store? Thanks.

Wil:cheers:

[Boat Doc']

When you say drilling it out, do you mean really drilling it?? I see a brass plug on the side right next to the throttle adjustment. It looks like it has a very small hole in the center of it. How much should I drill this out?? I assume not very much. What happens if I drill the hole too big?? Thanks again.

Green Machine

There is an adjustment screw behind that plug. Drill it out enough that you can pry it out to access the mixture screw. You do not need to reinstall it. Make sure you go no further than the brass plug.

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc,

I have a new 50 horse 2 stroke recently purchased there at Stevens Marine. I recently hit some debries at Riffe lake in Wa. I noticed that a cast iron collar about half way down the motor shaft is snapped. It appears to be near the shift linkage? Not sure thats what that metal rod is. It has a ground wire attached to the outside part of it. It is held in place by 4 bolts, resembles a horse collar. Does it hurt to run the motor with this broken? I have scheduled service on it, however cannot get it in to you guys until July 30th :pray: Perhaps I could stop by and show someone in service on a motor in the store? Thanks.

Wil:cheers:

Come on by, if nothing else we could look at a picture, might be a motor mount cover?

[Dinikin]

Boat Doc.
Few more problems with my Mercury 75 HP- 1986.
All of a sudden, motor lost power and cannot get up to speed.
Only limping at about 5mph. I don't have a working tach, but seems that it cannot get full RPMs out of it.
I found bad sparkplug, and replaced them all.
Also. When in forward GEAR, I can turn the prop with little effort and it makes clicking/crackling sound. When in Neutral, and I turn the prop, it makes just clicking noise. When I compared to other Boats, they spinn smooth.
Could you please tell, few checks I can make, or what might be the issue.

Thanks.

[Boat Doc']

Check spark and compression. The prop should lock in one direction and ratchet the other in forward gear. Some clicking in neutral is normal, means the cable is slightly out of adjustment.

[Wilmyster]

Come on by, if nothing else we could look at a picture, might be a motor mount cover?

Okay, thanks, it did seem to run with no issue, since its new I just want to make sure:meme:

[skunked_again]

Boat Doc,

On my 1976 85 horse Johnson, last couple of days it has been surging almost like it is not getting a constant stream of fuel. I was told it could be a bad spark plug as well as maybe a clogged fuel filter. What is your take on this? It is a 2 stroke.

Thanks in advance,

Skunked

[Boat Doc']

I would agree, besides checking the filters it would be a good idea to take a fuel sample and look for water or debris. If you find any you should flush the carbs, lines and drain the tank.

[weekender]

Boat Doc -

I've got a yamaha 9.9 4 stoke kicker. I'm getting water in my crankcase oil. I pulled the head hoping to find a quick fix, but the gasket was good. My next though is the powerhead base gasket. If I pull the powerhead and find that gasket is not bad, where else should I look?

[Dinikin]

After changing inline fuel filter, I got it running back to normal.
I could not see that old fuel filter was bad, since fuel was steadily flowing out of fuel filter outlet of when disconnected.
What I have noticed that fuel line primer bulb got firmer instead of being mushy when primed. Might have been an air leak or something else I did while checking the obvious.
Thanks Boat Doc.


Check spark and compression. The prop should lock in one direction and ratchet the other in forward gear. Some clicking in neutral is normal, means the cable is slightly out of adjustment.

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc -

I've got a yamaha 9.9 4 stoke kicker. I'm getting water in my crankcase oil. I pulled the head hoping to find a quick fix, but the gasket was good. My next though is the powerhead base gasket. If I pull the powerhead and find that gasket is not bad, where else should I look?

A couple of tablespoons could be considered normal especially if trolling alot. Common sources are thermostat, engine not getting to temp because hot box is left on to much, powerhead gasket or less likely head gasket.

[skunked_again]

You stated that the fuel line primer bulb go firmer instead of being mushy. Are you talking about the primer bulb on the fuel line going from the tank to the motor? I have been having surging problems with my engine and also noticed that when I prime the bulb. Is it suppose to be mushing when primed? And how did you fix this?
Thanks for your time,
Skunked


After changing inline fuel filter, I got it running back to normal.
I could not see that old fuel filter was bad, since fuel was steadily flowing out of fuel filter outlet of when disconnected.
What I have noticed that fuel line primer bulb got firmer instead of being mushy when primed. Might have been an air leak or something else I did while checking the obvious.
Thanks Boat Doc.

[Dinikin]

In my case, the only thing that I replaced was a white inline fuel filter that is below the cowling, it got the arrow and plastic. Cost about 7-10 bucks.

Are you talking about the primer bulb on the fuel line going from the tank to the motor---- Yes, I tried changing to diffirent fuel tanks but it was the same.
Is it suppose to be mushing when primed---- As soon as I start pumping on it, probably after about 3-5 squizes it becomes firm (no jokes here).

I hope it helps.
What year and model of the motor do you have?


You stated that the fuel line primer bulb go firmer instead of being mushy. ? I have been having surging problems with my engine and also noticed that when I prime the bulb. ? And how did you fix this?
Thanks for your time,
Skunked

[treebutcher]

Boat Doc,

I have a 2000 19' Jetcraft (true custom jetcraft one of the last made)
It has a 175 SJ on it ,,there is no hobbs meter on it but i would say that this motor has way less than 200 hours on it. in fact more like 125 to 150 hours ( I use the kicker 99% of the time) i have always been religious about not throttling the boat up until I can feel warm water coming out of the engine thus telling me the engine is warm..
On Friday the 13th after following the above proecdures I gave her some go juice and with no warning ***..Now i have a rod hanging out one side of the block and another hole in the other side of the block..
1. What does Merc have to say about this?
2. is it possible to replace the sj with a four stroke powerhead and stuff it in the same hole the sj was in?
3. do i just have an offshore bracket built and hang a 4 on it.....if I do that then I am probably into that repair for pert near the price of the boat I'm guessing.( 15 bills i guess)
4. do i take the hit and trade the boat in as is?

ALL OPINIONS ARE WELCOME......

THANX ALL IN ADVANCE

TREEBUTCHER

[trouttroller]

2002 Mercury 25 hp 2 stroke help

Dear doc.
My motor, that doesn't have a whole lot of hours, is having a problem. It starts fine and runs fine when underway. When you slow to idol it's fine but when you give it gas to go again it dies. This is after the engine is plenty warm. Runs great other than that. If I play with the choke it will finally get going.This has gotten worse as time goes on. I checked the plugs and they looked fine. I was thinking maybe water in the fuel filter? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Alan

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc,

I have a 2000 19' Jetcraft (true custom jetcraft one of the last made)
It has a 175 SJ on it ,,there is no hobbs meter on it but i would say that this motor has way less than 200 hours on it. in fact more like 125 to 150 hours ( I use the kicker 99% of the time) i have always been religious about not throttling the boat up until I can feel warm water coming out of the engine thus telling me the engine is warm..
On Friday the 13th after following the above proecdures I gave her some go juice and with no warning ***..Now i have a rod hanging out one side of the block and another hole in the other side of the block..
1. What does Merc have to say about this?
2. is it possible to replace the sj with a four stroke powerhead and stuff it in the same hole the sj was in?
3. do i just have an offshore bracket built and hang a 4 on it.....if I do that then I am probably into that repair for pert near the price of the boat I'm guessing.( 15 bills i guess)
4. do i take the hit and trade the boat in as is?

ALL OPINIONS ARE WELCOME......

THANX ALL IN ADVANCE

TREEBUTCHER

Something caused a piston to stick which had the rod come out. Possible causes being heat, no oil, contaminated oil, broken ring etc. It would be most cost effective to repair it with what was in it. If you no longer do any shallow water fishing you could trade it for what your current needs are, you still have to pay to fix the old one. The costs could be deferred to the finacing of a different package. Give someone here a call if we can help.

[Boat Doc']

2002 Mercury 25 hp 2 stroke help

Dear doc.
My motor, that doesn't have a whole lot of hours, is having a problem. It starts fine and runs fine when underway. When you slow to idol it's fine but when you give it gas to go again it dies. This is after the engine is plenty warm. Runs great other than that. If I play with the choke it will finally get going.This has gotten worse as time goes on. I checked the plugs and they looked fine. I was thinking maybe water in the fuel filter? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Alan

Try richening the idle jet. If it still does it you will need to disassemble the carb and clean it thoroughly.

[trouttroller]

Thanks so much doc. I will try that. Alan

[goodkarma]

Boat Doc,
I have a 96' merc 175 that runs great. On my last outing we were starting and stopping a lot, I probably started the motor a dozen times in 2 hours. When we were coming in, I noticed the volt meter showing in excess of 16 volts, might even be 18 volts (can't recall).
Today I ran the motor just at idle in the slip and at idle it charges right around 13-14 volts but at slightly higher RMP's it's back up over 16 volts again. I have a dual battery set-up so I switched to battery 2 and the same charging took place, but when I switch to "all" batteries, the system went to charging normal, around 13-14 volts.
The batterys are new and I haven't seen this problem before, any ideas what is causing this?

[MattPark]

Boat Doc, I've got a 94 Merc 150 2 stroke. The starter gear is not engaging all the time, but a whack on the starter pops it right up (when hit right next to the "do not strike with hard object" warning:D)

Is there something in the starter that can be cleaned up or repaired, or is it time for replacement?

[Boat Doc']

Try lubing the drive gear shaft. It sounds like it's sticking. Also check the battery connnections and battery. If it still has issues you may need to install new brushes.

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc,
I have a 96' merc 175 that runs great. On my last outing we were starting and stopping a lot, I probably started the motor a dozen times in 2 hours. When we were coming in, I noticed the volt meter showing in excess of 16 volts, might even be 18 volts (can't recall).
Today I ran the motor just at idle in the slip and at idle it charges right around 13-14 volts but at slightly higher RMP's it's back up over 16 volts again. I have a dual battery set-up so I switched to battery 2 and the same charging took place, but when I switch to "all" batteries, the system went to charging normal, around 13-14 volts.
The batterys are new and I haven't seen this problem before, any ideas what is causing this?

I would check all battery connections for tightness and corrosion. Don't forget to check the switch connections and the switch itself for excessive resistance. It's possible but unlikely the regulaters are bad.

[Geoff Pace]

My Dad has a 2004 40h 2strk merc. that he ran uground & suck some sand or weeds in (it's a prop),Is there a way we can unplug it with out bringing it in to stevens?
Geoff

[Dinikin]

Boat Doc.
I am planning on cleaning carbs. on my 86 Merc. 75 hp 4 cyl.
What are the gaskets that might get teared up when carbs removed/assembled?
Would you happen to have any p.n. for it.
Any tips of what to look for, and how deep to dig in?

Thanks.

[Boat Doc']

You should just need a gasket set 1395-6200. Remove the float and needle, idle mixture screw and make sure all passages are clear.

[Rusty]

Problem with brakes on my Rogue Trailer.

I have a 2002 Rogue Trailer with "surge" brakes. They have never really worked well since I bought the boats, motors, and trailer. (Everything works GREAT except brakes.) The problem is that when stopping quickly, or applying the brakes suddenly, they seem to "lock up" and start a "chattering" noise. This is followed by almost uncontrollable "bucking" of the boat and it transfers to the rig. The only cure is to stop braking, not always possible, and let the shaking settle down.

I know little about surge brakes and am wondering if you could offer some suggestion on the best solution (I have ALWAYS used Stevens Marine in Tigard and would like to have them fix the brakes if possible. However, I am not opposed to taking it elsewhere if that what it takes.

Rusty

[Boat Doc']

Please let me know the serial number of the trailer and your contact info. You can e-mail or pm me.

[iampapajack]

Boat Dr, Re: hamilton 212 on 21' NW Jet...The info manual from Hamilton sez I should use "high pressure marine grease" made by Shell to lube bearing via zerk fitting. I just read this. I have been using a blue general purpose marine grease...
1) Am I in trouble ?
2) Is this shell grease necessary ?
3) If so where can I get some (or Equivelent)
4) How often should I be lubing zerk ?
5) I use this same grease on U-joints on driveshaft, how often should I give the U-joints a shot?

Thanks for any info...Jack

[Boat Doc']

Here is my opinions, Wheel bearing grease is fine, lube the jet every 20 hours, lube the u-joints every 100 hrs or annually. No your not in trouble, the grease police will not be knocking on your door.

[iampapajack]

I feel better allready Doc..Jack

[grsteelies]

Doc'

I recently purchased a 1993 4 stroke 9.9 Yama Kicker and it started on the 2nd or third pull until TODAY. My green light comes on when i pull to start, but no fire. After 30 minutes at the ramp pulling the rope, one random pull and it fired right up and trolled great all day. I shut it off and restarted it three or four time during the trip. Now tonight, 200 pulls and NADA! I pulled the plugs and they were a little dirty, but they are new last week, so I just wiped them clean. Please tell me where to start.

much appreciation

rick

[Boat Doc']

I would try the lanyard switch or stop switch. Disconnect them and see if it starts. Be careful, when they are disconnected you cannot shut it off!

[Slayer]

Boat Doc,

Thanks!

[AlanA]

Boat Doc,

I have a late model 1997 Johson 175 Ocean Pro and while out this weekend the "no oil" lite and alarm sounded. We had been out for tuna in the morning and returning towards shore for some Coho when the alarm went off. After trolling for Coho it restarted and I was about almost to the trailer and it went off again. Is there somethings I should be look at and is there someway to check the oil pump? Or does this mean I should replace the oil pump?

Thanks in advance,

Alan A.

[Boat Doc']

There is output checks and senser checks. Get a manual and follow the instructions. Do not run it without checking it out further or mixing the fuel.

[AlanA]

There is output checks and senser checks. Get a manual and follow the instructions. Do not run it without checking it out further or mixing the fuel.


Thank You, Will look in the manual.
AlanA

[PRINCEMASTER]

I have a 1995 Evenrude 150 that has not been serviced since it was bought...other than new plugs...filter you know the routine. I would like to know where to take this to get checked over and possibly see what I can do to squeeze some more horses out of it. Or is it just cheaper to go 4 cycle? Thnx in advance.:idea:

[Boat Doc']

The people in your area for service don't seem to have a very good reputation, I would ask other people with the same product where they go. As far as getting more out of what you have I would recommend against it. It will detract from the reliability and life of the engine.

[adventuren1]

I have a very squeaky steering wheel (not hydraulic) in my 93 hewes river runner. How do i lube the gear box and shaft in the dash?

[Boat Doc']

If it is rubbing on the plastic bezel move it or lube it. You can remove the cable and lube the moving parts. The helm itself is not servicable however you can take it apart and lube it.

[rags]

I have a 150 Opti-max with a pump I purchased at Stevens. I've always flushed my motors by backing into a fresh water source. Now I live on the coast and it would be more conveinent to flush in my driveway. My question is where do I flush the pump/150 at and how. Also have a merc 9.9 to flush.

[Boat Doc']

You can get a attachment for each of them that will allow you to run them. The opti has screw by the grease fitting that you remove and screw in an adatper. The troller has a attachment that goes over the water intake. We can send them to you if you want. Call 1-800-225-7023 and ask for parts.

[MattPark]

Boat Doc, I've got a 1994 Alumawed Formula Vee 19 with an outboard, and I can't find any information on how big the fuel tank is. I've even pulled up the floor to look for markings on the tank, and I don't see any. Do you have any way to find out?

[Boat Doc']

I believe its 45 gals.

[Chrome Bumper]

If you can get a tape measure on it there are 231 cubic inches in a gallon.

[airjunki]

Boat Doc, I have a 1991 155 HP Merc 4 cyl. that starts and runs like a champ but I pulled the spark plugs for the first time today and was surprised to see two of the plugs were oily one more so than the other but still more oily than I was expecting for as well as the engine runs. Could I have a stuck ring or two? I ran Sea Foam through the last two tanks just for Sh**s & grins to be kind to the fuel system and that's all I have done to it since I got it other than today when I performed some PM work. Seems like a real clean / low hour motor. It starts right up and doesn't shake around. I ran it for quite a while last week and it even sits and behaves for quite some time at an idle while a guy fishes without loading up real bad :shrug: What do ya think? Ron. :cheers:

[Boat Doc']

If it runs good and smooth don't worry about it, that engine doesn't run on the bottom 2 cylinders at idle which may explain it. In general oil residue on a two stroke is not unusual.

[baumer]

Boat doc,

I am posting this for a friend. He has a 85 Mecr 200hp black max. The problem is the motor will start and run for hours with no problems, after about two hours running the motor will just stop. You can squeez the bulb to get it running and it will die again. The bulb is not collapsed and will squirt fuel into the motor. After about an hour of cooling off the motor will start and run fine for two more hours and the cycle starts all over again.

I know the last time he mixed gas/oil he in advertantly mixed twice the oil he should of. We have thined the mixture to what it is supposed to be and the problem still persists. Friends have mentioned the fuel pump diaphragm, my question would be if the diaphragm is bad it should not run for two hours. Could it be a vent issue with the fuel tank? Is this a vapor lock issue? Any help is appreciated

Thanks

[airjunki]

If it runs good and smooth don't worry about it, that engine doesn't run on the bottom 2 cylinders at idle which may explain it. In general oil residue on a two stroke is not unusual.

Thanks Doc! So maybe if I was to cut the engine off at high rpm it may show a dry plug? :pray:

[Boat Doc']

I would start with the fuel pump, if it was a vent issue the primer would be physically flat. It may not hurt to replace the primer bulb and make sure it points uphill so the check valves function.

[Boat Doc']

If a carburated 2 stroke shows a dry plug then it is about to blow up. They should always be slightly wet.

[Bird Dog]

Nice of you to give us some help, Doc.

I have a '95 Merc 8hp troller, and this past week it started to overheat. I noticed it wasn't pumping any water out, so we shut it down and monkeyed with it for a while. At the dock a few people advised to put in a new impeller. I did that, as well as remove completely the broken thermostat. It pumps now, but not at idle. Still overheats. It's pushing lots of water through the side holes above the lower unit, so is it possible to have an obstruction in the section between the lower unit and the head? Should I replace the entire impeller housing? Should I run with or without the t-stat (I've been advised both ways)?

Thanks
Bird Dog

[Boat Doc']

Make sure the pee hole isn't plugged, Then make sure the water pump is assembled correctly and the grommets for the water tube are intact and not folded over. If everything looks ok remove the side water jacket and look for a broken gasket or a hole in the divider plate that will allow exhaust into the cooling system. The motor will run better with a thermostat in place, also note that on some models it only pees when the thermostat opens. However it should pee all the time with it removed.

[ReelAttitude]

Boat Doc:


Doc I have a 1976 OMC outdrive, powered by a ford V8

it just started to slip when I aggressively hit the throttle, if I back off the prop begins to push the boat again....if I slowly increase the throttle, the boat runs fine....

this has all the classic symptoms of a spun prop hub, I just replaced the prop, & its still doing it . I realize the new prop could be spun out of the box, but before I buy another prop, I wanted to know is there any other known issues in an OMC outdrive that could exibit the same symptoms,

thanks

[baumer]

Boat Doc,

I have a 1998 9.9hp 4 stroke merc kicker. The kicker has always been reliable and never let me down until this weekend. I let my buddy use it on his boat and his main outboard is not adjusted to the right height, it was too low resulting in saltwater being sprayed onto my kicker while underway.

Now the kicker will not start. I have checked to make sure it is getting fuel, which it is. I even sprayed a little ether in the carb and it still did not fire up. I removed the top spark plug and held the electrode on one of the bolts to the motor and the spark was there but it is very week. I have never checked the spark before this so I have no reference to go on. I also checked both the on/off switch and the kill switch and both are functioning properly showing continuity while off or depressed.

Do you have any idea's? What else should I check before starting to throw a coil or switch/relay box at it? Any help would be appreciated.

[Boat Doc']

If it's electric shift it may have the wrong viscosity oil in the outdrive. Other than the prop you are looking at shaft splines or gear hubs. You could try putting it in gear with the engine not running and see if you can see or hear something slipping. I would look at incorrect oil or prop hub.

[Boat Doc']

I would check for water in the carb, If it's ok then you will need a manual to measure voltage or check resistance of ignition components. Try changing the plugs first.

[Ken Drifter]

Doc,
Do you guys service Hondas ?

[iangler]

Boat Doc,

Do you guys service Boat Trailers?
I need to re-carpet the bunks, touch up paint on fenders, and re-wire brakes and would rather have a professional do it for me.

[ReelAttitude]

thanks Doc

I did infact just complete an oil change, when I swaped the new prop

cheers :cheers:

[Boat Doc']

Sorry we don't service Honda.

[Boat Doc']

We can do work on trailers however we are limited on paint issues.

[iangler]

Boat Doc,

Another quick question. Can you guys do paint related things for boats? (gelcoat) Like hull cleaning? If not any place you can recommend that Stevens Marine has connections with?

[Wilmyster]

Boat Doc,

I have a new boat and trailer recently purchased from your fine establishment :clap: My question is I already have a burned out trailer tail light, the sealed unit type. One, can I open it and replace, two does my warranty cover this? Boat only has 17 hours on it so trailer has not been towed a lot, thanks:yay:

[RGE]

Boat Doc,

I’ve have a 2000 70 HP Johnson – 2 stroke oil injected outboard that is have starting issues after sitting for a couple weeks. This is my method when starting it for the first time of the day. I pump the primer ball until its hard then turn the key while pushing the key in until it fires. Usually it will fire fairly quckly but dies soon after. This goes on for several attempts until it stays running long enough for me to lift the idle advance lever. Then it smokes very heavily for 5-10 minutes, clears itself out and runs great the rest of the day. I have run sea foam through a tank of gas and it hasn’t helped at all. If I store the motor in the tilted position, there will be a couple tablespoons worth of oil collecting in the motor housing. I kept the motor in the down position the last time between trips and that didn’t help. I’m assuming a carb cleaning is in order but though I would see if you had any other thoughts or advice on trouble shooting. Thanks in advance for any advice you may have.

RGE

[Boat Doc']

For fibreglass work use Pacific Powerboats at 33rd and Marine Drive.

[Boat Doc']

Warranty will cover the lights for 1 year from purchase date. If its sealed the assy needs replaced.

[Boat Doc']

Try raising the fast idle lever before cranking and holding the key in for 3-4 seconds in the run position before cranking and continue to hold it in while cranking. The fact that it runs well after being started would normally indicate improper cold start procedure and that the carbs are functioning normally. The fuel/oil that puddles when tilted is normal

[Starfish]

Doc, I have a 2003 Merc 225 EFI. My local mechanic advised me that it was imperative to run only Champion plugs in the engine and that I could not run equivalent rated NGK plug. Of course the local parts store has NGK's and not Champion so it's easier for me to get the NGK's. Is it true that I can't run the different brand? Thanks!

[Boat Doc']

NGK is fine and is my personal preference. Make sure it is the correct match.

[GreshamFisher]

Doc, quick question. I have an Alumaweld with a 350 inboard motor with a hamilton jet pump. Today while out on the columbia we were beaching and we sucked up a bunch of weeds. The engine got pretty hot (warning light came on), we were able to get it to cool down and motor over to a place where we cleared the grate. After clearing it, everything ran as normal. I was motoring back to the take out at full throttle (just testing things), which is about 4000 rpms, when all of a sudden the motor went down to 3200 rpms and wouldn't go past that. Is it possible that if there's something still in the grate or impeller it would cause that, or did I screw something up in the engine? Or is there possibly something else I should look for?

Thanks!

Kurt

[steelheader1]

Doc,
I need info for the Fuel pump mod for my sport jet. I can't find it anywhere on Ifish???
Thanks in advance!

[Boat Doc']

Check compression and plugs, if ok then look for fuel filter being plugged. If this is EFI verify fuel pressure. This is a good place to start.

[Boat Doc']

On the sport jet mods look at past posts in this forum, it would save me a lot of one finger pecking.

[steelheader1]

Found it, ThANKS!

[s20055]

Boat Doc,

I have a 2000 North River with a 175 hp Mercury Sportjet. A friend of mine just had the oil injection pump go out on his (same motor), costing him a whopping $6,000 for the repair. After doing some internet research, I've found some info that there was a recall from Mercury for this issue. Apparently, the gear is plastic and doesn't hold up over time. Do you have any info on the recall and is it too late to retrofit mine (under the recall)?

[Boat Doc']

There was a recall in 2000 that involved replacing the coupler behind the oil pump. The gear was not replaced. If your serial number falls between OE249035 and OE369299 then they may still cover the replacement. If you get me your serial number I could check it out. By the way the gear is still plastic, any failures are attributed to overheat, lack of lube, contaminated oil or the bushing swelling.

[s20055]

There was a recall in 2000 that involved replacing the coupler behind the oil pump. The gear was not replaced. If your serial number falls between OE249035 and OE369299 then they may still cover the replacement. If you get me your serial number I could check it out. By the way the gear is still plastic, any failures are attributed to overheat, lack of lube, contaminated oil or the bushing swelling.

Serial number is OE376152. So, it appears that mine falls outside of the recall.

[nunyet]

Boat Doc

I have a 19 foot free drifter with a 115 opti on it. The fuel gauge on the tank and the smart craft system do not seem to be close as far as accurate readings ... so what percentage of err can I expect with the smart craft system? I love the boat and the combination ,but like to run with the least amount of weight in the boat posable .I ran from the mouth of the deschutes to mack canyon and back yesterday{ close to 50 miles} and the smart craft gauge said I only burned 10 gallons but the tank was down what looked like more. The tank was not full when I started so just filling it will tell me nothing. Lite load and was only running about 41 hundred most the time. I will fill it next time before starting but hate to run around with almost 40 gallons just to day fish. I have a flow scan system in another boat and it seems to have almost no err.

Thanks Nunyet

[jimsbuddy]

http://www.ifish.net/board/images/icons/icon1.gif smoky 95 yamaha 50hp 4stroke
I've noticed lately the boat motor is smoking a bit. Typically I know the exhaust from the motor comes out thru the prop... well lately its comming out thru the port hole below the rear of the cowl. Symptioms, smokes most of the time, smokes always at idle or putting, wont idle, stalls at idel. Without a cooling system resivour ( as in a cars radiator). No noticeable oil consumption. Oil looks fine no chocolate milk from water in oil. Im not sure how to check the coolant for hydrocarbons. Some checks Im going to perform tonigh... compression test, inspection of spark plugs, look for dead cyclinders due to water leak into cyclinder... Im thinking I have a bloan head gasket... anyone else????

thx

[Boat Doc']

The consumption you mention seems about right, of course the best way to confirm is to start with a full tank and refill. You can compensate for the difference by resetting the capacity. The smartcraft system relies on injector pulse to determine flow instead of a paddle wheel, therefore it won't be totally accurate.

[Boat Doc']

Assuming compression and leakdown are good I would thoroughly clean the carbs. This time of year with the cooler mornings you will see a lot of steam coming from the four strokes because of their higher engine temps.

[jimsbuddy]

Assuming compression and leakdown are good I would thoroughly clean the carbs. This time of year with the cooler mornings you will see a lot of steam coming from the four strokes because of their higher engine temps.
yup yup... Docs got it right on... #1 carb is not delivering fuel to the chamber... when he tore downthe carbs he said there was lots of gunk in the carb.... well I did let it sit last year all winter. my bad$300 lesson... plugs fouled also...

[MattPark]

I've got a 97 4 stroke Mercury 9.9. It does NOT like to start when cold. I've adjusted the idle all around, and nothing makes it any better. It runs perfect once it fires off, but that can take 10 or 15 pulls on occasion.

[HammondSeaRanger]

Boat Doc,

have a 1978 85hp evinrude. I recently had the carbs completly rebuilt and all the fuel lines (internal and external) replaced. I have begun fouling plugs to the point that I have to eithier install new plugs before each trip or pull the plugs on the water and sand them clean due to extreme fouling.

I have tried the best two stroke oil on the market, I put the oil in the tank before i put fuel in so there is a good mix. I am running 50:1 oil ratio. I am gaping at the manufacture suggeted spacing.

the plugs are fouled with oil (need to wipe it off) and carbon (sand paper).


any ideas?


Matt

[td2pts]

Boat Doc:
I have a 2001 8HP Honda four-stroke kicker. I had to take it in to have a bracket fabricated and in doing so layed the kicker on its side in the back of my pick-up. It was there overnight and when I unloaded and placed it upright on the stand at the machine shop there was oil leaking out from underneath the cowling down the side of the motor. I am almost certain that I laid it on the correct side? The motor was being wheeled away like a loved one being wheeled into surgery. Do I need to call the guy and have someone look at it asap or what? Have been worried about it all day. It has been VERY well cared for over the years and I don't want any damage done. Some advice please.

Thanks
TD

[Boat Doc']

Sounds like the enrichener circuit might be plugged or the needle may be sticking, I would thoroughly clean the carb paying close attn to the enrichener circuit.

[Boat Doc']

If the carbs aren't flooding and the fuel pump isn't leaking into the crankcase I would suspect weak spark. Look for it to jump a 1/4 inch gap and be blue in color. If it isn't then check out the ignition, don't overlook the ignition switch or lanyard switch if equipted with one. If spark is good look for water in the cylinders from a water jacket or head. Least likely would be upper or lower crank seals or reed valves. More least likely would be crankshaft seal rings, however if it has been apart or has lots of hours it may be a possibillity. Good luck.

[Boat Doc']

The motor should lay on the handle side. It needs to have oil added to the correct level and run it. If it won't start change or clean the plugs. There will be no permanent damage.

[98ramtough]

Boat Doc,

I sent you a PM, just curious if you got it?

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc,

I sent you a PM, just curious if you got it?

Yes, looking into it.

[kayakfisher]

I have a Merc 125 2 stroke ... maybe about 8 years or 10 years old.. but gets light use...

Starts and runs well... BUT when putting it in neutral after running for a while ie putting it into idle often stalls... ie when coming back to a doc for example ... it often kills and is hard to start.

By trial and error I have discovered that the priming bulb does NOT fell full, and if I give it a couple of squeezes it then starts and runs fine again...even when it idle and neutral until I go out and run it hard for a while... kind of acts starved for fuel to my perspective, and the two squeezes always work. I would like to fix this issue since it is a very irritating situation for me... and of course could be a safety issue under some circumstances.

1. Any suggestions as the cause so it is done properly the first time?

I have wondered if there could be fuel pump problem (doubt that since it runs well at all other conditions), a problem with gas flow in the line at low rpm perhaps do to either a leak in the line, or a vacum build up problem (I don't know much about how tank vacum is dealt with on a boat as the fuel is withdrawn. or (your guess here?) , or simply a low idle condition (which I doubt).... this is not a new problem and was still present after the last annual service however... and I suspect the idle was properly set to spects. I also don't think this problem would have necessarily been evident in a shop tune up situation... as the description would suggest. :)

Cars I can trouble shoot, but I do not have much knowledge of the nuances of these boat motors...


2. The only things I have had to repair so far: put in a new master swich (which for some reason has been a problem in these motors?) and one other electrical component ... ie when I got the boat back after the new masterswitch it only ran on two cylinders.. and a second new component, which I cannot name corrected the problem... (done out of town where the boat malfunctioned.. not your repair. This is clearly a fuel problem in my opinion...

thanks...

M.

[jimsbuddy]

yup yup... Docs got it right on... #1 carb is not delivering fuel to the chamber... when he tore down the carbs he said there was lots of gunk in the carb.... well I did let it sit last year all winter. my bad$300 lesson... plugs fouled also...
Saga continues after 2 trips to the bay... Even after they decarboned the pistons, overhauled the carbs-sync them also, and installed new plugs, it still smokes.... seems a little less than before if any. This only happens when its warmed up... is there still unburnt fuel in the exhaust system causing the smoke, or might there be another issue? Would a blown head gasket cause smoky situation like on a car??? I think on a car its the ethyleenglycol that casues the smoke vs strait river water in a boat.

[Boat Doc']

When you squeeze the bulb you are creating a rich condition in the float bowl and masking a lean condition. I think if you richen the idle mixture the problem will go away.

[Boat Doc']

Is it smoke or steam? If it runs good and it's steam it's normal. Only other sources of smoke would be rich running, consuming oil or head gasket all of which would cause a poor running condition.

[Leader shy]

Doc,
I've got a 2003 5hp Honda . We were out yesteday and the motor would die and act like it was flooded. we would have to wait a few minutes before it would start again.This was only at idle . Any thoughts? Also would a two blade prop slow my trolling speed down ? Thanks ...Mike

[chummer]

Doc,
In regard to my post concerning my starving kicker motor (99 15Hp Mercury) I took your advice and insured that the primer bulb was pointed uphill, It was pointed downhill a bit. A couple of guys have suggested to replace the fuel pump. I want to insure that my starving issue does not come up again, so i would like to replace it. Should I replace the whole thing, or just the diaphragm inside? Thanks for your help.

[jimsbuddy]

Is it smoke or steam? If it runs good and it's steam it's normal. Only other sources of smoke would be rich running, consuming oil or head gasket all of which would cause a poor running condition.
I was thinking smoke, only because once it starts, it dosent stop until the motor is shut off and cooled.... I will look further into it...

thx
jim

[Boat Doc']

5 horse honda, a prop of less pitch will slow you down, as for dieing that is normally related to plugged or restricted idle circuit or the engine idling to slow. It could be flooding, if so you would see or smell fuel. Either way a thorough carb cleaning seems to be in order.

[Boat Doc']

15 merc, I would just replace the diaphragm kit.

[Duckboy23]

Doc,
Quick question. I just bought a 2007 115hp Opti Tiller and would like to get a tach for it during break in and for determining proper pitch on the prop. What brand and type do you recomend? Thanks.

[Boat Doc']

I would recommend a mercury system monitor which displays hours, rpm, gallons per hour, voltage etc by scrolling thru a menu.

[chummer]

Boat Doc, My 15 Hp Kicker continues to tease me. So far i have replaced all of the fuel lines and primer bulb, I replaced the fuel pump diaphragm (The large rectangular one) and also the quick coupler at the transom. The motor ran fine for approx. 1 hr. and then started the fuel starvation thing again. It runs perfectly when it does run, so it does not seem to me to be a motor issue, i just have to stay near to re-prime the bulb at the first sign of it starting to crap out. Am I missing something? Is there more then 1 diaphragm in the fuel pump? The main fuel/water seperator filter was new this spring and the main motor, a 225 optimax runs perfect.:help:

[Boat Doc']

Try running it off a seperate fuel source to isolate it to the motor or boat

[Boat Doc']

I will be gone on vacation today (Sun) thru 11-1. Happy Fishin

[steelheader1]

I have a 175 sportjet.
I am having problems with my depth finder some times when accellorating it restarts or freezes all wiring is OK. Should I give BUZ8H resistor plugs a try?

[dixiefisher]

Boat Doc'
My hunting partner recently bought a boat with a 2003 50 hp merc 4-stroke....I noticed the other day while flushing it at the ramp...that there was no stream coming out the tell tale. After reading the service manual I have a couple of questions.
1. The water flow diagram showed water coming out of the exhaust, as well as the tell tale. Should there be a stream out of the tt at all times, or is it triggered at high temps?

( after digging in we found that the hose that attaches from the fuel pump to the telltale fitting was crimped - this happened the last time he flushed the motor - the boot holding the fitting starts turning with the force from the hose being screwed on. Pinched the water flow to zero.)

2. I only see ( what I think is the TT fitting ) at the point where you attached the hose for flushing. Can we still attach the ear muffs to the pick ups, and should we see the stream from this fitting?

(After attaching the ear muffs, both water flows could be seen from the telltale and the exhaust).


Thanks once again!!

Paul

[Soulakala]

After reading through all the posts I found very few thanks for Stevens Marine advice. So for all you that forgot let me say THANK YOU FOR ALL THE TIME AND HELP YOU OFFER - ONE HECK OF GOOD THING YOU DO.
:applause::applause::applause::applause:

[BillH]

Another option on the sportjet fuel issue would be to extend your fuel supply line outside of the engine compartment; install the primer bulb and then route line back into compartment.

This is a very easy modification and the bulb can be mounted out of sight and harms way just beneath the gunnel.

No Warranty Void With This Method
I installed a primer bulb in the fuel line in the engine compartment on my '99 175 sportjet on the advice of a friend who had the same complaint. It does indeed speed up the process of starting although lifting the cover in the morning is a slightly obnoxious extra step to have to take.

[Redneck]

I installed a primer bulb in the fuel line in the engine compartment on my '99 175 sportjet on the advice of a friend who had the same complaint. It does indeed speed up the process of starting although lifting the cover in the morning is a slightly obnoxious extra step to have to take.

i tried the primer bulb for a while and it worked. i had a compartment on either side of the engine compartment so i ran the fuel line into the oil reservior compartment, installed the primer bulb, then ran the fuel line back into the engine compartment. i asked in a post if this was considered coast guard legal and was told "NO" by a person who knows the CG regulations. this person said the primer bulb can't be located in any "compartment" and therefore must be out in the open. all marine fuel lines must pass a 2 minute burn test. primer bulbs don't pass this test.

after considering what would happen if the CG caught me with the primer bulb or if there was ever a fire on the boat and insurance was involved or the risk of harming family and friends I removed the primer bulb all together and went a different route.

what i wound up doing was wiring in a relay that would allow me to run the fuel pump prior to cranking using the key switch's "push to choke" feature and would run the fuel pump during cranking (without using the "push to choke"). this is a little different than the previous method and requires a little more wiring and electronics knowledge but i think it might work a little better. it's been working really good for me so far and usually starts on the first or second try.

one other thing i think helps is treating the fuel with stabil every tank. i've noticed easier starting with treated fuel.

for me the risks of using the primer bulb were too much.

redneck

[Boat Doc']

I have a 175 sportjet.
I am having problems with my depth finder some times when accellorating it restarts or freezes all wiring is OK. Should I give BUZ8H resistor plugs a try?

Make sure it's not over charging and that depth sounder wires aren't next to other wiring then try the plugs

[Fisherman]

I have a question about a Rougue trailer My wheel fell off driving home the other day I was told the rouge no longer uses those hubs so I would have to special order them I would like some advice on where to go to get this fixed

[Boat Doc']

Hubs are fairly standard, give us a call with specifics or try Auto Wheel or Six Robles.

[pearl]

Boat Doc,

Need you to step on the blue side for a minute.

2005 150hp 4 stroke Yamaha. Tiller

While at Buoy 10 this past August after coming off the water I hit my power tilt switch and everything went dead. Ignition, gages and trim. Upon inspection it had blown one of the 20 amp fuses.
Yami mechanic diagnosed a bad relay switch which was replaced.

Forward to this past weekend. Ran boat all day. While putting on the trailer I was powering on and went to lift the motor via the switch in the tiller and the fuse blew again. Quickly tried to replace and blew two more. Had to lift engine by hand.

Back to service today. Mechanic puts in new fuse and and placed on computer and all works great. They lifted the motor over 20 times, ran on the water and used power trim and works like a champ.
How can you diagnose something that isn't broken but my confidence level of fishing out of town isn't real high at this point.

Any suggestions of what else to look for? Short in switch while giving gas ( Remember fuse blew while powering boat on trailer ) bad switch in handle or on motor cowling?

I lifted it 10 more times tonight and it works as it should?

Suggestions?

Thanks.

[Boat Doc']

Sounds like the fuse blows when the switch is activated up. If that is true then the up wire, probably blue should be traced to find where it is touching ground, engine cowl, cylinder block, throttle linkage etc and the wire repaired and relocated. So far the effect has been repaired but not the cause.

[rags]

Boat doc,
I have a Mercury 9.9. It seems it takes longer to warm up in the morning than usual. If I take off before I let it run a long time it stalls when I put it in gear. Runs a little rougher than usual. Do I just need a tune up? If so what can I do myself as I live in Tillamook and don't know of a mechanic in this area. I used to take my boat to Stevens in Tigard.

[Boat Doc']

I would richen up the idle mixture. You may have to remove a plug on the carb to access the mixture screw. If that doesn't help then the carb may have to be disassembled and cleaned.

[sschwab]

Any idea of a glass shop to replace a slightly curved tempered glass wing window on a boat that's too old for the manufacturer to carry parts or even a full windshield replacement?

[Boat Doc']

Try Western Metals 503-256-0401

[rags]

Boat doc,
I have a year old OptiMax 150 with a pump I purchased at Stevens in Tigard. I noticed recently when I am getting my boat on plane it really runs ruff around 3000rpms. When I give it the gas and get it on plane it runs fine at around 4000rpms. I haven't had it in for service yet. I purchased it new in July of last year. Been very happy with motor but noticed this the last few trips. Any ideas.

[Boat Doc']

Try changing the plugs. The motors are calibrated to run with a prop. When a jet is installed the load on the motor is different. If the plugs don't help there may be nothing you can do other than avoiding the rpm range it runs rough. It doesn't hurt anything to run that way.

[rags]

Boat doc,
I stopped by Stevens in Tigard yesterday and they told me it could be bad gasoline. I purchased a new water/fuel seperator and will try it. I will pour out the gas in the old one and see if there is any water. The first part of this tank of gas there was no problems. I am down to about a half of tank and started noticing the rough running. If this doesn't correct the problem I will just bring it in. Stevens told me the plugs for the OptiMax is about $20 each.

[High_Fives]

Boat Doc..

I will try this here to see what you think.. thanks

Yesterday I bought my very first boat. As part of the process, we took it to the water and ran the 40 HP EFI 4-stroke. It started very easily. My wife commented on the tell-tail stream (her first time on a small boat). Anyway .. after it idled for the warm up .. (about 2-3 minutes) There was steam shooting out of the back of the engine .. slightly off to the left as I was facing it from in the boat. When I asked the seller about this he said they all do it.. his fathers does and he has the same boat and motor. Being a former auto mechanic, I am out of my element with marine motors. We got it up to speed and went for a short run.. then idled it in neutral to talk for a while. As it idled .. it shot a steady stream of steam out of the same place.

I took the sellers word for it being normal, as he seems like a nice honest person, however I wrestled with it for the 400 miles home.

I looked at the engine and it loks nice and clean under the cover. Has oil so clear you can hardly see it on the dipstick.

Can this steam be from sitting, and will go away in a bit.. or am I looking at a gasket issue, or worse. I didn't think the motor had time to over heat in the first few minutes before I saw the first steam.

What do you think.. should I take it to a mechanic and have it checked out? If I do, should I get in touch with the seller and ask for some help with this? He said it was normal, and also said the motor had no issues.

I know it's buyer beware, and my bad for not insisting the the steam issue was delt with, but as I said, the seller seemed very honest.

Thanks Again

[Boat Doc']

If it is peeing a steady stream at all times and there is no alarms sounding then it is normal. If it is not peeing a steady stream or there is steam coming out of the pee hole instead of water then the water pump should be checked.

[High_Fives]

If it is peeing a steady stream at all times and there is no alarms sounding then it is normal. If it is not peeing a steady stream or there is steam coming out of the pee hole instead of water then the water pump should be checked.

Thanks Doc,

To tell you the truth I was so excited I totally forgot my common sense. As I said.. my wife was at the back of the boat and saw it peeing.. but it started steaming shortly after.. when we stopped a while later.. I looked for pee and only saw steam. If it's water pump, how expensive of a mistake did I make.. and do you think I should talk to the seller who said "they all do that"?

[Boat Doc']

If it was to hot the alarm would sound. To answer your question I would guess around 200.00 for a dealer to do it. It will steam thru the exhaust releif and that is normal. If it is blowing steam instead of water out of the pee hole then you have a problem.

[tippet]

Boat Doc,

Whats your opinion on the merits of keeping or dismantling fuel injection on an 1989 Evinrude V6 225 VRO?

Thanks for your thoughts.

[Boat Doc']

My personal opinion would be to replace it or disconnect it and mix the fuel. If you disconnect it make that anyone who may put fuel in the boat knows it is disconnected.

[EelRiver]

howdy boat doc ,,been looking for a tiller for my 92 merc classic 40 for months cant seem to find one anywhere,internet ebay marine dealers ,any ideas where i could find one..thanks

[Boat Doc']

We can get you one, however they run about 630.00 bucks. There should be lots of used ones around. Look for any 4 cylinder 40,45 or 50 horsepower handle.

[EelRiver]

We can get you one, however they run about 630.00 bucks. There should be lots of used ones around. Look for any 4 cylinder 40,45 or 50 horsepower handle.
thank you very much for the info i will look

[EelRiver]

thank you very much for the info i will look
Hi boat doc would this tiller work for my mer classic 40 4 cyl the part #816366a22 thanks again

[Boat Doc']

No, thats for a 3 cyl.

[EelRiver]

No, thats for a 3 cyl.
Thanks for the reply..im still looking

[EelRiver]

No, thats for a 3 cyl.
Would a part#78551a29 92 merc 40 4 cyl

[Boat Doc']

That is for a 50 hp 1989 1/2 and older with 2 peice steering arm and two trim cylinders. I think it would work with the possibility of some modification of shift or throttle. If you could hold it up to the engine to eyeball it would be ideal. Before you buy make sure you can return it if you can't make it work!

[rbert7]

Boat Doc,

I have an Alumaweld drift boat. One of the steel seat supports is firmly corroded into the slot in one of the aluminum seat rails. I have removed the rail from the drift boat seat base and soaked it with wd-40 and beat on it a few times with no success. Any Idea on how I can separate the two?

[Boat Doc']

heat, bigger hammer and be careful. After that you may have to replace it.

[rbert7]

heat, bigger hammer and be careful. After that you may have to replace it.

Thanks. I am on my way to warm up the torch and get a bigger hammer. If that fails I will into Tigard to buy parts.

[stream2.5]

i tried the primer bulb for a while and it worked. i had a compartment on either side of the engine compartment so i ran the fuel line into the oil reservior compartment, installed the primer bulb, then ran the fuel line back into the engine compartment. i asked in a post if this was considered coast guard legal and was told "NO" by a person who knows the CG regulations. this person said the primer bulb can't be located in any "compartment" and therefore must be out in the open. all marine fuel lines must pass a 2 minute burn test. primer bulbs don't pass this test.

after considering what would happen if the CG caught me with the primer bulb or if there was ever a fire on the boat and insurance was involved or the risk of harming family and friends I removed the primer bulb all together and went a different route.

what i wound up doing was wiring in a relay that would allow me to run the fuel pump prior to cranking using the key switch's "push to choke" feature and would run the fuel pump during cranking (without using the "push to choke"). this is a little different than the previous method and requires a little more wiring and electronics knowledge but i think it might work a little better. it's been working really good for me so far and usually starts on the first or second try.

one other thing i think helps is treating the fuel with stabil every tank. i've noticed easier starting with treated fuel.

for me the risks of using the primer bulb were too much.

redneck



I remove the diaphram pump and install a Carter 74070 vane style electric pump that is USCG approved directly to the carbs on the 175 or the high pressure pump on the 210/240..

[rbert7]

Thanks. I am on my way to warm up the torch and get a bigger hammer. If that fails I will into Tigard to buy parts.


The heat and bigger hammer worked!! Thanks for the advice.

[stream2.5]

The heat and bigger hammer worked!! Thanks for the advice.

take som emory cloth and clean up the 2 surfaces and apply some light lube such as petrolium jelly or wax to avoid future gauling and sticking of the slides..

[stream2.5]

Hey boat doc, is there any place that has a breakdown or could you provide a parts number by size list of available carb jets for the WMH series Pumper carbs used on a 1991 7 pedal reed 2.5L 200 hp.. so far ive only found default stock jetting available, and am looking at a swap to ethanol based fuels and will need about 30% more fuel into the engine...

[HOOKUP]

Boat Doc,
I took my boat out today in freezing weather. I took the boat off the trailer, beached it and parked my truck. When I came back my steering was froze. I ran the motor for a good 20 min and my steering continued to be frozen. I put the boat back on the trailer and was never able to get it unfrozen. The baffles are free of ice and I think the problem is further up the cable. Any ideas?

[Boat Doc']

Replyed to your PM

[Seahunt]

I have a 4 stroke 140 Suzuki on my boat, it has 900 hours, it's a 2003. I use it in saltwater 95% of the time. What is the most hours I should expect to resasonably get before this motor is not reliable for offshore?

[stream2.5]

thats a loaded question..... some engines if well cared for run for 3000+ hrs... others die in under 500 due to lack of care... if well maintained it will begin to lose HP and performance due to being worn out before any reliability problems are taken care of, I would hope that in 900 hrs that the valve lash has been adjusted atleast 3 times and that the oil has been changed 9 times, and that the engine has had a thourough tuneup and performance related service atleast 4 times.... if this hasnt occured I suggest you get the maintaince cought up or it may begin to be unreliable, if you are good about service it will last 2500+ hrs easy.. there are many "little things" that wont end your trip that are signs of engine reliability issues... fouling plugs, missing, hesitation, ect that slowly get worse if not remodied... my FV has its original 1989 merc... over 3100 hrs, and i will take her offshore any day its smooth enough with out a wory one..

[Seahunt]

It runs great I've done or had done everthing except adjust the valves. Since 100 hours it hasn't been to the dealer. I change the fluids,plugs,filters and impeller. I didn't know the valves needed adjusted on a regular basis on these new 4 strokes.

[stream2.5]

yep, becausethere is no hydralic lifters like in a car, so as the parts wear over time the tolerances change, and things within the vavle train need to be reset to proper gap and tollerance, most valve adjustments are dealer only doable due to the process as the entire cam and or valve assembly needs to be shimmed up or down to regap the cams to the valves..

[Seahunt]

Thanks for the description the boat is heading for the shop before it hits the water again. I appreciate your time in explaining the valve adjustment situation.

[BA Baracus]

I have a 2004 motion marine fishing machine with a 175 merc sportjet.

It has been a great motor.....until yesterday..... I took it to the river and it didn't pee right away and smoked more than normal. It took some revs of the engine to get the engine peeing but it still smoked and when I went to go full throttle it stalled. It acted like it overheated but I didn't get an overheat alarm. It wouldn't start for a while.......I ran up river with the kicker and fished for an hour or so before I tried to start the motor. This time it started and again smoked more than normal but seemed to pee normal. I ran it full throttle up river and it stalled in a bad spot....no overheat alarm just a stall. Luckily my buddy was able to throw the anchor. I let it sit for a while finally got it to start and ran down river through some rapids.

It seems to smoke more than normal and takes some priming (rev engine) to get the coolant to pee. Is this a clogged fuel filter?? Failing water pump??? I get no over heat alarm. Suggestions??

Mike

[Rubber Robin]

Boatdoc,

I've got a 20' Duckworth jet sled. Inboard Ford 351 engine.

Today I used my boat for some Willamette sturgeon fishing. Put in at Willamette Park and ran upriver for about 10 minutes. Anchor fished and at the end of the day I ran downriver for another 10 minutes to take out.

Since it was cold tonight I went out to open the manifold petcocks to drain any water in case of freezing. No water drained out and I realized that I hadn't closed them up from the last time. I never had any overheat alarm go off.

Was this enough to cause any motor damage? I know this is not a good habit to get into.:hoboy:

[Boat Doc']

The water may have froze in the hoses causing the problem. Running the engine may have generated enough heat in the engine compartment to thaw it out. The engine dieing is a seperate issue, look at the fuel filters. The excess smoke could be steam? from operating in cold water. If you are not seeing excessive oil consumption I wouldn't be concerned. The water pump is the jet pump, so as long as you have thrust it is working.

[Boat Doc']

Your inboard jet has more than enough water volume to compensate for the petcocks being open. Other than a lot of water in the bilge there would be no overheat issues.

[stream2.5]

the fact that it was smokey and it stalled several times and wouldnt turn and start right away would want me to go through and do a compression check and if it was ruunning lean it may have caused internal damage to the engine..... you should see aprox 120-130 PSI consistantly across all 6.. more is better under 100 you have BIG problems...... any time a merc V6 goes lean you run the serious risk of loosing cylinder number 5 to detonation failure... as it seems to be the first hole to go lean and the last one to get the correct ammount of fuel....

also there should be vertually zero Pee from a sportjet at idle due to the poppet valve being closed it pees once the poppet valve opens up... just like an outboard... ESPECIALLY in cold water...... if your truly conserned about your waterflow through your block install a water pressure gauge on the top of the block where the poppet dump crosses over back to the top of the block.. 1-2 PSI at idle, over 15 at WOT are the minimums..

[fishkisser]

:hoboy:the fact that it was smokey and it stalled several times and wouldnt turn and start right away would want me to go through and do a compression check and if it was ruunning lean it may have caused internal damage to the engine..... you should see aprox 120-130 PSI consistantly across all 6.. more is better under 100 you have BIG problems...... any time a merc V6 goes lean you run the serious risk of loosing cylinder number 5 to detonation failure... as it seems to be the first hole to go lean and the last one to get the correct ammount of fuel....

also there should be vertually zero Pee from a sportjet at idle due to the poppet valve being closed it pees once the poppet valve opens up... just like an outboard... ESPECIALLY in cold water...... if your truly conserned about your waterflow through your block install a water pressure gauge on the top of the block where the poppet dump crosses over back to the top of the block.. 1-2 PSI at idle, over 15 at WOT are the minimums..

Who are you dude the new boat doc ...:hoboy:

[Seahunt]

yep, becausethere is no hydralic lifters like in a car, so as the parts wear over time the tolerances change, and things within the vavle train need to be reset to proper gap and tollerance, most valve adjustments are dealer only doable due to the process as the entire cam and or valve assembly needs to be shimmed up or down to regap the cams to the valves..
I just called the Suzuki dealer to make an appt. to have my valves adjusted on DF140. He asked me if they were making noises, I told him no it runs perfect. He said Suzuki recently updated dealers to say 1000 hour check up on new style lifter adjustment. He said in dealer training they said don't ever expect to do this adjustment. Probably saved myself $400+ and $150 in diesel to pull the boat home. The shim bucket style should only need adjustment if something else went wrong.

[BA Baracus]

Thanks Boat Doc,

I changed the water/fuel filter and there was visible water in the bottom. I also flushed the cooling system with a hose (just in case) and topped off the drive housing lubricant. Now everything runs great. I believe it was just the filter.

Thanks again

Mike K
:dancingman::cheers:

[bronc]

i have a 175 sortjet aluaweld intruder, an i keep it moored it seems like when i run the bilge pump theres alot of water pumped out where would all that water be coming from , how is it getting in the bilge when it set in moorage . it never gets to where it runs over the floor boards.

[Boat Doc']

The most common areas of leakage are the fittings where the cables go to the pump under the front of the engine, leaking gaskets where the pump mounts to the hull, cracks around the intake area and leaky hoses on the block. If nothing else make sure you have a good quality high capacity automatic bilge pump.

[bronc]

The most common areas of leakage are the fittings where the cables go to the pump under the front of the engine, leaking gaskets where the pump mounts to the hull, cracks around the intake area and leaky hoses on the block. If nothing else make sure you have a good quality high capacity automatic bilge pump. THANKS boat doc.

[foxer]

Boat Doc. I am looking at a new open sled that will most likely have Mercury power. Will a 60hp 4 stroke have the same length tiller handle as say an 115 Optimax? I have checked all over the internet and cant find this info...Thx

[Boat Doc']

Measuring from the transom the opti is about 7 inches longer.

[3-db]

Boat Doc -
I trust you are aware that all gasoline in Oregon and, by the end of the year, Washington will have 10% ethanol in it. I hope you let your readers know that they should look at Coast Guard Boating Safety Circular 85, pages 6-10, to understand the scope of this problem. see: http://www.uscgboating.org/recalls/pdfs/BSC85_1.pdf Older boats with fiberglass fuel tanks should not put E10 in them. They are now useless. There should be lots of new engine problems, especially with older 2 cycle engines. I urge boat owners to contact their legislators and ask them to change the law to exempt marinas , or at least to exempt premium unleaded gasoline, as the only three other states with mandatory E10 laws have done.

[fishy2k]

Hi there Boat Doc, I'm wanting to know, what the degree of bottom was on a 1983 Alumaweld V-Sled. This boat is a open model with a console, and it is 17' long. Curious if that is even a length made in that year.

Thank You, Fishy

[Boat Doc']

Best guess would be 10 degree. They did make 17,19,21 back then.

[alanmikkelsen]

Boat Doc, I have a 1995 Mercury 115/80 pump. Last year I replaced the rev limiter module. Last weekend, running up river on a 20 mile run, it would slowly lose RPM, until over a period of a couple miles, the boat was barely on plane. The motor sounded like it had a miss on one or more cylinders. I'd shut it down and make a couple drifts on the kicker, then start the main up and run another 5 miles, before it would start again. Happened about three times. I had drained the fuel filter canister the day before, and it didn't have any water in it. Running downriver at the end of the day, there was no problem. The motor never sounded like an over-rev problem, like a cavitation in whitewater, but I don't have a tachometer, either. Pretty puzzling. Any ideas? (This was what it was doing last year before a dealer diagnosed it as the rev limiter and put a new module on)

Thanks for any insight.

[Boat Doc']

If it's mechanically sound I would disconnect the rev limiter and see if the problem goes away. Also check all the ignition components and make sure the wiring connections are tight. If it doesn't replace the plugs, check for water in the fuel and intermittent spark. If it turns out the rev limiter is causing the problem I would suggest installing a tach so you don'tover rev it and leaving it disconnected.

[alanmikkelsen]

If it's mechanically sound I would disconnect the rev limiter and see if the problem goes away. Also check all the ignition components and make sure the wiring connections are tight. If it doesn't replace the plugs, check for water in the fuel and intermittent spark. If it turns out the rev limiter is causing the problem I would suggest installing a tach so you don'tover rev it and leaving it disconnected.

I went through all the grounds and checked them for tightness/corrosion. I haven't checked the plugs for a little while, will do that. Water in the fuel isn't a problem, but what would cause intermittent spark (other than a bad plug)? I'll probably put in a tach, just to better monitor things. Thanks, Doc.

[Boat Doc']

Switch box is the most common prolem of intermittent spark. One other long shot on that motor is a internally leaking water jacket cover. Would probably show up as small water droplets on the spark plug.

[ReelAttitude]

Hi Boat Doc' (http://www.ifish.net/board/member.php?u=3795)

curiosity question, lower unit oil for electric shift OMC outdrives

a guy told me that in a pinch tranny fluid could be temporairilly used as lower unit gear lubricant, as the viscosity is the same as that lower unit oil for the "electric shift OMC outdrives"?

thanks

[Boat Doc']

I think it's way to thin, I would go to Joes or elsewhere and get the oil recommended for electric shift. I think it's around 60 weight.

[DTSportsman]

Boat Doc,

What are you opinions on the Smokercraft Sportsman 18ft boats? What rivers would you take them on with a 90/65 pump. For the money would you recommend a new one, or look for a 10-15 yr old Alumaweld, Jetcraft, North River etc....

Thanks
Daryn

[Boat Doc']

The Sportsman sled is a great boat for the money. As long as you are familiar with the rivers you are running it will provide you with many years of enjoyment. Its drawback is relatively light gauge materials. If you hit something or are running in heavy rapids those characteristics would be less severe on the other boats you mentioned. I would run the Sportsman on every river but the Deschutes or Rogue or any other high volume river. If we can help you in your decision please give us a call.

[rum runner]

Hi Boat Doc,

I have a question about kicker motors for an inboard jet boat. Boat is 18ft and on the trailer is approx 4,000 lbs. Recommendations for horsepower on newer 4 stroke kicker? Also, how do I determine the length of motor that I need (where do I measure on the boat). Right now it as a cheapo bolt on kicker mount that everyone discourages so I will probably change that out. Also, when I bought the boat a few years ago the previous owner used and sold with the boat a 15 hp Johnson 2 stroke kicker that pushes it around well but I have enough of smoke and noise and want to switch out to a 4 stroke.

Thanks for you input.

[Boat Doc']

9.9 would be what I would recommend, relatively light weight with enough power to assist in emergency. You could get a bolt on fixed aluminum bracket. Measure from where the motor would rest on the bracket to the bottom of the boat. A long shaft Merc measures at 23 inches.

[DTSportsman]

The Sportsman sled is a great boat for the money. As long as you are familiar with the rivers you are running it will provide you with many years of enjoyment. Its drawback is relatively light gauge materials. If you hit something or are running in heavy rapids those characteristics would be less severe on the other boats you mentioned. I would run the Sportsman on every river but the Deschutes or Rogue or any other high volume river. If we can help you in your decision please give us a call.

I'm thinking mainly using it on the Willamette, and the Columbia, is it doable for Buoy 10?

[Boat Doc']

Buoy 10 if the water is relatively flat, Flat bottom boat is going to be a rough ride. Willamette and Columbia would be ok

[Jacks or Better]

Doc, reading an article I cut out of the Oregonian a few weeks ago and saved. Fuel additives are mentioned because of the ethanol. Are the fuel additives in an auto stores okay for 4stroke Mercs? What specifically am I looking for - STP, Heet, carb cleaner? Or do I need to come in to a local boat place. I have always used a stabilizer over the winter. Stryker w/ 9.9 4st. and 60 4st. from Tigard Stevens. I don't know engines but can change oil, gear lube, change plugs, basic stuff. Thanks ahead.

[Boat Doc']

Use a stabilizer for storage, stay away from anything that removes water and use a high detergent additive every fourth tank or so. The Mercury branded product is called Quick kleen.

[GearUp]

Hi Boat Doc.

I have a 115 Yamaha with pump. About 3 years ago I had the water pump replaced. I don't put that many hours on the motor yearly, maybe 10. Ever since the water pump was replaced, the motor has a "loose shaking part" kind of noise that you can clearly hear at idle and up to about 2000 RPMs. Higher than that, the sound goes away and the motor purrs. I have rebuilt my carbs a couple of times on this motor and would install a new water pump myself the next time. The same place I had do the water pump botched my carb rebuild so I am wondering if they did a quality job on the water pump. Anyway, the sound is hard to pinpoint but could be coming from the water pump area. Any advice?

Thanks,
chuck

[Boat Doc']

I would make sure the pump impeller is tight and that the impeller is not rubbing on the liner. If Yamaha uses a stainless water pump housing the driveshaft may be rubbing on it until there is enough thrust to seat the tapered bearings in the pump. Same goes with the impeller. If the driveshaft is rubbing you can take a grinder and make the hole bigger. Doing nothing may fix itself over time.

[chongo469]

Boat Doc............I have 1988 johnson 90HP LS with a jet unit....The powerhead is bad and I am looking at putting a rebuilt powerhead on it.........My question is how difficult of a process is it to R&R a powerhead on one of these motors.....On a scale of 1-10 ....10 being the most difficult......I know a little bit about wrenching, and have the utmost desire to get this sled on the water............any help would be appreciated
http://www.ifish.net/board/images/statusicon/user_online.gif http://www.ifish.net/board/images/buttons/report.gif (http://www.ifish.net/board/report.php?p=1872541) http://www.ifish.net/board/images/misc/progress.gif..........

[Boat Doc']

Probably a 5 or 6. Make sure you get a manual, put the powerheads side by side and take 1 step at a time. Remove complete assemblys instead of individual parts when possible. A dial indicater to locate top dead center and a timing lite should be all you need. Don't forget the manual.

[knot_tyer]

Hey!

I have a 92 200 merc v6. How much of a chore is it to rebuild the carb's?
Also: I am considering moving my batteries forward. Where I want to mount them it is going to take like 22' of cable. Currently have 1ga. Do I need to go to 1/0 for that distance? Thanks for all your input!

[Boat Doc']

Carbs are pretty easy, just time consuming. Make sure all the passages are clear and check the float levels. Definitely go to the heavier gauge cable.

[knot_tyer]

Carbs are pretty easy, just time consuming. Make sure all the passages are clear and check the float levels. Definitely go to the heavier gauge cable.

Thanks!!!!

[FishN]

I have a '94 150hp Merc ouboard pump. I can hear the starter spining but it's not engaging. Any ideas on where to start trouble shooting.

Thanks

[Pete]

Boat Doc' - There was a guy on TeeVee talking about problems with gasahol separation resulting in water in the fuel. Aside from that handsome gentleman's suggestion to pay close attention to the water separating fuel filter, are there other steps one can take to ensure the fuel reaching the motor is water-free? Additives? Buying gas in Washington?

[Mark Smith]

Boat Doc,

I just drained the lower unit in my 1995 115 Merc out board prop and the oil is quite grey. How concerned do I need to be.

Thanks,
Mark

[Boat Doc']

fishn, the starter drive may just be stuck and need lube. If you carefully apply pressure to the side of the starter drive and crank the engine it will force the gear up into the flywheel. If it cranks at a normal speed after that apply some light grease to the shaft. If it spins slow check the battery and connections and lastly an issue with the starter itself.

[Boat Doc']

Pete, for those people who use their boats frequently the ocassional filter drain or replacement will be fine. If you see more than a couple tablespoons of water you should increase the frequency until the water volume decreases. Do not use any additives other than a good fuel cleaner like Mercurys Quick kleen. For people who store their boats for longer periods they should run them for about 30 minutes then follow the above advice on filter inspection/changes.

[Boat Doc']

Mark, fill it with fresh oil and check it again after its next use. If it is burn't smelling or has metal chunks in it it will require immediate inspection.

[C-Run]

Boat Doc,
Took out the brand new boat yesterday for the first time. It's powered by a 90 hps Suzuki. Is it normal for it grind for a second when shifting forward and reverse. You can feel it grind a little when you put the controls in gear. Never had a Suzuki before and I can't remember any of my older boats doing this. I'm wondering if I need to take it in to the service Dept.
Thank you for any advice on this issue.

[Boat Doc']

If the throw is equal from neutral to forward and neutral to reverse then it would be normal. If not it should be readjusted. Shifting should be with a crisp motion, don't baby it.

[fishrepellor]

Hi Boat Doc,
I have a 2000 9 hp Merc 2-stroke kicker. last time out, it continously dies when at or near full throttle for more than 30 seconds. 50-60% power is ok. it starts fine.
easy fix or should I bring it in.
thanks

[kidkodger]

Hey Doc,

Is it possible to convert a 2002 15hp 4stroke merc long shaft to a XL(25")?

[Boat Doc']

Fishrepellor, sounds like it may have a worn fuel pump or the exhaust may be plugging up, up to you depending on your skills.

[Boat Doc']

Kidkodger, there is a kit to extend it 5 inches. Runs 320.00 plus install. Easy to do yourself.

[ReelClass]

Hi Boat Doc,

I'm new to this board so please forgive me if this question has already been asked. I have a 6 yr old 22ft NR aluminum boat with a few scratches and chips in the paint primarily along the gunnel. there are also a couple small spots on the exterior with bubbling paint, presumably due to underlying oxidation. Can a motivated boat owner satisfactorily do touch up painting to an aluminum boat at home? If so what products and process would you recommend to clean/prepare, prime and repaint those surfaces.

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!

[RatherBFishn]

Boat Doc,

My 02 Yamaha 9.9 kicker starts "ticking" or "clacking" after it warms up for about 5 minutes. I have heard the valves can do this if they are not set right. They have not ever been adjusted since new. Also, it smoked for a couple minutes when started after not being run since Oct 07. Do you think the noise is from the valves and if so, how do you adjust them? Is the blue smoke a problem or normal? Thanks, RBF

[Boat Doc']

Reelclass, Anything you try to do at home will look mismatched and uneven. Chances are at 6 years old the paint has faded and would be difficult to match. For it to be perfect you would probably have to do the whole side. Options are to do nothing, after all it is a fishing boat and some dings and scratches are proof it's being used. A relatively inexpensive fix would be vinyl. I think greenbutskunk is in the business. Good luck

[Boat Doc']

ratherbfishn, valve adjustment involves removing the rear cover and adjusting the rockers to the correct clearance. There should be a decal on the cover that gives you the specs. The blue smoke is not normal, it may be the oil is over full. I would recommend changing the oil with the correct viscosity as recommended in the owners manual and adjusting the valves. If it still makes noise check the oil pressure. You may end up taking it to a tech for evaluation.

[Dinikin]

Boat Doc,
I got 96 ELPTO 90HP oil injected.
what is the easiest and sure way to tell if the system is working.
What sensors will tell if there is a malfunction.
Ran my boat out today and not that much visible smoke were coming out. Got me worried..
Thanks.

[salmontroller]

Okay here goes. I'm going to answer these this way for now.By the way neither Stevens Marine or i-fish are responsible for loss or damage as a result of opinions offfered on this forum.
To Jen- Darn my crystal ball just broke. Iwould have to refer you to Bill.
To El-Kabong-The addition of a good quality water seperating fuel filter should be used on any application using multiple fuel tanks or built in tanks. It would be recommended only one filter be used besides whatever the manufacturer supplied with engine. And no you shouldn't experience any restrictions on a system in good operating order.
Regarding hard starting Sport Jets, after sitting they lose there prime. Since these are in effect inboard engines they cannot have a primer in the engine compartment. The newer models have an electric fuel pump that primes the engine only while engine is cranking to assist in cold starting. Older engines require the engines mechanical pump to pull the fuel to engine which can take a while. You could add an electric fuel pump to system that must be Coast Guard approved and limited to 3 psi output.
Oxygenated fuel shouldn't effect the starting of engines. I would guess there is some other problem like the choke not closing fully. Todays engines are desighned to run on those fuels. Engines prior to approx.1986 may experience problems with rubber components.
So far as scheduling service please call the store and the service counter guys can help you.
On the 18 Evinrude, we can't service them for you. However if you have two mixture adjustments you set them as follows. Low speed which is the top one, screw it in to a lightly seated position and back out 1.5 turns. High speed which is the bottom one is 3/4 turn out from lightly seated position. Run it in gear under load, adjust high speed in until it starts to die then back out until it runs smooth. Slow down to idle and adjust low speed in until it slows down or starts to cough and back off until it smooths out. That's all there is to it.
Lastly back to Sportjet- none of them have a choke that is controlled by the key switch. Pushing in the key switch does nothing. They do have an enrichener valve that is controlled by a temperature sender in engine head and the engines computer.

Hope this answers everyones questions for now Doc'

[salmontroller]

Doc: I have a '07 50 HP Merc fromStevens...hve a builtin fuel tank in my smokercraft...did the engine come with the additional separator or must i hve that added???

[Bonk]

Boat Doc i have a 1987 smokercraft alaskan with a 1987 evinrude 15hp i am thinking of upgrading to a 2002 merc 25hp will it mount on the back of my boat without much effort or will i have to get holes drilled and the others patched up. The merc is a short shaft. Thanks for your time

[Boat Doc']

Diniken, there is no sensors that monitor oil flow. There is a sensor that monitors the oil level in the tank. Other than the oil level dropping in the reservoir the only way to know it's getting oil is to hook up a premixed fuel supply, disconnect the oil output line from the oil pump and verify oil is coming out of it. These systems have been very reliable. The only time I have seen a failure has been caused by extreme overheat or water in the oil.

[Boat Doc']

Salmontroller, Look under the motor well for the fuel filter, looks like a oil filter. If you didn't request one it probably needs to be added.

[Boat Doc']

Bonk, The holes probably won't line up, you can plug the old ones with wood dowel and sealer.

[fishy2k]

Hi Boat Doc, what can be done to make the outside of a older aluminum boat look newer. What would the cost be for a professional cleaning. Thanks, Don

[Magnet]

Boat Doc, I was refered to you by a user of another message board. He says you saved him tons of money on a motor problem he was having. Below is a post I have placed on another message board.


"
94 Mercury 115 4cyl, 2stroke Non-Mixtype, The motor also has a Outboard Jet pump on it.

I bought the boat used, It was previously used in saltwater But was kept very well. I ran the boat several times and it seemed okay. Then one day while running at full throttle the motor began to loose RPMs until and idle and died. So as I was stranded floating my to who knows where I got it started again. come to find out it would run just fine if pumping the prime bulb. So i ripped back to the boat launch occasionally pumping the prime bulb.

That weekend I rebuilt the fuel pump, Took it out the next weekend. Seemed okay, Next weekend the stalling problem came back. So, I replaced the Prime bulb, someone told me occasionally the 1 way valve can stick and cause problems. So I bought and installed a new prime bulb. When Pumping the bulb the bulb I could hear a whooshing sound coming from my fuel tank. So I tore into the inboard tank and examined the pickup tube, it was fine no holes and free of obstructions. so I put the whole thing back together and took the boat out. Same problem, cutting out on top end.

The next weekend I replaced the Fuel lines from the inboard tank and the fuel disconnect pieces on both the motor and the fuel line. I also Removed the water fuel separator and checked the fuel filter inside the cowl. Took the boat out again, same problem continues to cut out.

Okay, so im left thinking...... When I bought the boat the seller claimed the motor had good even compression across all 4, within 5 pounds of top and bottom. The fuel pump is vacuum from what I could tell when rebuilding it. some have suggested that possibly the motor is low on compression and not running the vacuum pump efficiently.

Advice at this point would be greatly appreciated

Otherwise I have a Hillbilly HairBrain Scheme! I was thinking of throwing an electric fuel pump in the boat to supplement the lack of fuel. Is this a good way to burn out my engine?
"

[jimsbuddy]

Hello Doc, I need to tap into your Yamaha knowledge. I have a 95 50hp outboard prop. F50TLRT. I have intermittent water pump issues... I started it up yesterday just to make sure the boat is ready for upcoming season. Tub under the prob full of water, motor starts and no water out the Pee hole. Pull the line off the head and nothing but steam comes out. I pulled the bottom unit and the impeller looks good, still full length fins, and pressed firmly up against the tin can in side the water pump housing. Key is in the shaft to rotate the pump. The plastic grommet out of the top of the housing for the pipe to slide into to feed the motor seems little loose, 0.5mm difference than new white grommet. Any ideas???

I have a new water pump kit in hand, and ordered a new housing just because.

[Boat Doc']

fishy2k, options would be, scotch brite pad, leaves a dull sanded look, polish, cover with vinyl or paint. Polish would run around 400.00 to have someone do it depending on condition and length.

[Boat Doc']

Magnet, If this is oil injected make sure the fuel pump kit has the holes in the diaphram for the oil to mix. The whoosing sound is coming from the anti siphon valve which is located at the fuel tank where the fuel line attaches. If it is sticking it will cause a fuel restriction. The other thing to look at would be to make sure the reverse cup is down tight when in forward gear. If it's loose the water can force it up as the boat comes on plane and choke off the exhaust. Finally the rev limiter could be bad causing it to cut out. It is easily disconnected by unplugging the black wires with yellow stripes at the base of the switch box on the starboard side. If you still have problems after all this we need to determine if it's an ignition miss or fuel starvation. If squeezing the bulb helps then look at fuel system. If not then I would probably look at the stator next.

[Boat Doc']

Jimsbuddy, before you take anything apart try running it with an ear muff flusher. You may not have it deep enough to prime or it may be getting exhaust into the cooling system.

[jimsbuddy]

Jimsbuddy, before you take anything apart try running it with an ear muff flusher. You may not have it deep enough to prime or it may be getting exhaust into the cooling system.
Thanks Doc, your medicine is too late, or I'm just too jumpy... I pulled the lower end apart, but I will reassemble today and see what happens.... I didn't think about the priming of the pump... If memory the other times I haven't seen the water pumping is always at home and never on the water...

[jimsbuddy]

Jimsbuddy, before you take anything apart try running it with an ear muff flusher. You may not have it deep enough to prime or it may be getting exhaust into the cooling system.
Ok Doc,Your on the money, put the lower back on and sure enough.. pumps nice and hard out the pee hole....

Next question: While we get some smoke out of a motor on cold mornings due to condensation, how much is too much??? I had the choke on and it was warming up, all good. As the engine warmed up, like 30sec to 1 minute, I noticed quite a smoke stream out the exhaust hole, as well as good flow of water out the exhaust hole... good amount is about a cup in 1-2 minutes... is that normal??? Sounds to me like I have a blown head gasket. Any way to test for this??? I know with cars, you can check the plugs for the whitest plug because the antifreeze will clean up the plug. On a boat thats a different story I'm sure because there is not antifreeze, only lake water. Oh and the engine wont idle real smooth without the choke on (idle up ) so that also leads me in that direction...

thx for your medicine

[alanmikkelsen]

Boat Doc,

I have an 8 hp Merc kicker on an 18' Alumaweld Intruder, open tiller sled, 115/80 Merc main. Upwards of 30 gal of fuel, sometimes a bit more. I always have two people with gear, often three, and sometimes four people on board, to give you an idea of the weight issue.

I use this boat in fairly heavy current, side drifting with the kicker. Once in a while, instead of cranking up the main to re-run a hole, I'll slide over into quieter water and motor back up with the kicker, so top speed is important, along with the ability to make small drift corrections at low rpm.

I'm looking for a new prop for the kicker and am wondering about pitch. I'm looking at a Solas four blade, 7 or 9 pitch, or a factory three blade, 7 or 9 pitch. The four blade is 9.25 diameter and the factory is 9" diameter.

I bought this boat a couple years ago from Stevens.

What would you recommend for this application? Thanks.

[Boat Doc']

Jimsbuddy- What you are describing is probably normal, check compression, if it's ok then adjust the carbs to smooth out the idle.

[Boat Doc']

Alan, go with the smallest pitch available, 4 blades will give you more thrust if the pitch is equal.

[jimsbuddy]

Jimsbuddy- What you are describing is probably normal, check compression, if it's ok then adjust the carbs to smooth out the idle.

Ok, thanks much...

[Gr8waves]

Boat Doc,

I have a 2006 175 SJ. Will running synthetic oil have any impact on the engine? Does it flow properly through the resevoirs and injectors? Are there any brands you would recommend?

Thanks,

Gr8waves

[steelyone]

Boat Doc,
I'm having a problem with my 9.9 bigfoot. It shares its fuel source with the main motor (inboard). When trolling the bigfoot seems to run out of gas. To keep it running I have to quickly pump the ball. I have had it in the shop a couple of times and each time the tech tells me that he was unable to reproduce the problem.
Any ideas?

Thanks,
Steely

[Gr8waves]

Boat Doc,
I'm having a problem with my 9.9 bigfoot. It shares its fuel source with the main motor (inboard). When trolling the bigfoot seems to run out of gas. To keep it running I have to quickly pump the ball. I have had it in the shop a couple of times and each time the tech tells me that he was unable to reproduce the problem.
Any ideas?

Thanks,
Steely

My 9.9 Bigfoot does the same thing, same fuel setup.

John

[Boat Doc']

gr8waves, so long as the synthetic oil meets TCW111 standards it will work fine.

[Boat Doc']

On inboard applications with trollers it may be necessary to install a check valve on the line that feeds the main engine. Otherwise the troller will pull fuel from the path of least resistance- in this case the main engine till it sucks air and runs out of fuel. The main engine will then have to draw thru 2 check valves so make sure they are in good condition.

[steelyone]

Hey, Boat Doc
I'm looking at 1985 Alumaweld sled with a 115 horse merc outboard (same vintage) with a pump. I have have little or no need for a pump and will want to convert the lower unit to a prop.
Is this possible? Any Idea what such a converson would cost?

Thanks for any and all input.
Steely

[jaxflyfish]

Boat Doc,

I have a 1992 Custom Weld sled that I bought last year. I am attempting to do some maintenance on it and I have a few questions.

1. I can't find a sand trap on the boat. I am planning on installing one. However, should i open up the oil cooler and the heat exchanger and clean them out? The gaskets on the ends of those components don't look like they have ever been opened so it makes me a bit nervous.

2. How often should I lube the xerks fittings on the Berkeley jet? And what type of lube should I use?

Thanks in advance for your assistance.

[Boat Doc']

steelyone, Try to find something used. You have a 2:1 gear ratio assuming it's a inline 6. Probably looking in the 3-600 range. You will also need to lower the motor 7 inches without a spacer kit or around 2 inches with one. It may be difficult to find a used one. If you had to buy everything new you might spend 3-4K subject to availability.

[Boat Doc']

jaxflyfish, It would hurt to flush them out, however if you are not running warmer than usual it's not necessary. Grease it with wheel bearing grease every 20 hrs.

[steelyone]

steelyone, Try to find something used. You have a 2:1 gear ratio assuming it's a inline 6. Probably looking in the 3-600 range. You will also need to lower the motor 7 inches without a spacer kit or around 2 inches with one. It may be difficult to find a used one. If you had to buy everything new you might spend 3-4K subject to availability.

[steelyone]

Boat Doc,
will I need to raise the engine or lower the engine 7 inches? It would seem that prop lower unit would be longer than the pump. Or am I confused.

Steely

[rrboy]

TO the one and only Guru of motors..i just put a 2005 mercury 40 jet on my boat and it has oil injection, my kicker is a 2 stoke also, I have a built in fuel tank, can I run both my kicker and jet off the mixed gas in my built in tank and not use the oil injector? or should i keep the oil injector tank filled and will the motor automatically sense if it needs more oil or will it not take oil from the tank if its already mixed? I am trying to avoid having to have 2 fuel cells.

[Boat Doc']

Steelyone, the engine needs to go down 7 inches so the ventilation plate(the horizontal plate above the prop) is even with or slightly above the bottom of the boat.

[Boat Doc']

rrboy, you will need 2 tanks or disable the oil injection and mix your gas or get a 4 stroke.

[raidersteve67]

help please boat doc
i have what is a merc 15 hp i think it is a 2002 . oh and it is a two stroke
it has a electric start the problem is this, it takes forever to start and when it does it runs great but smokes there is this knob that says "pull to prime" and has arrows facing left saying "slow" and to the right says "fast" and "to start" any ideas i bought it used and i dont have a manual do you know the steps for starting

[Boat Doc']

Turn the knob to the right and pull it in and out twice then leave it out. Push it in after it runs for a few seconds the turn it all the way to the left after it warms up. If it still starts hard it may not be set up correctly.

[fishy2k]

Hi Boat Doc, is it possible to take out a dent, on and a aluminum boat? I know of a boat for sale and in the picture, there is a dent on the side. The seller said be bumped into a dock, and the dent is about the size of a baseball. Cost?

Thanks,
Fishy

[Boat Doc']

Maybe, You would need to pound it out from the inside which may damage the inside paint. In some cases the aluminum will stretch which would require bondo/paint to have it look perfect. You will be able to get most or all of it out by pounding. Depends on your level of acceptance as to how far you go.

[Small Fry]

Doc, I have a 1990 200 horse black Mac. Last fall it started running hot. I had the water pump replaced. Yesterday I took it out for the first time since the pump was replaced. When I first took off ( about 3000 RPM) the temp went high again. The alarm sounded in control box. I slowed down to about 1800 RPM for about 1 min. Temp went back down. The next time I took off it was fine. This happened several time throughout the day. Even when the temp stay low the alarm is sounding. This seems to be intermittent. Does this motor has a thermostat?

I checked the oil mixer and everything seems to be ok there. HELP ME PLEASE.

[Boat Doc']

There is thermostats that operate below 1800 rpm. Above that they are bypassed. If you are overheating above 1800 rpm and are confident there is no issues with the water pump then lokk at the poppet valve located on the lower stb side of the powerhead, it may be stuck. If it is a overheat problem a solid horn will sound, if you are getting a intermittant horn then check the oil reservoir under the cowl- it needs to be totally full. If its full then remove the oil pump and inspect the drive gear on the crankshaft for damage and repair as necessary. The key to what needs to be done depends on the horn being intermittent=oil or solid=overheat.

[Small Fry]

The horn is intermittent. I checked the oil reservoir it was full. Now where do I find the oil pump? One thing I did notice was a damaged wire on top on the oil reservoir cap. Could that be a problem?

[Roperguy]

Boat Doc,
I picked up a '93 Yam 15 (15MSHR), and it runs, but it's rough and there is no water spitting out of a tattletail. also no manual so I don't really know what to check on. Is there supposed to be water peeing or is it routed thru the exhaust, and what should I start with on carb adjustments? Thanks for any help.
Maury

[Boat Doc']

Smallfry, if the wire is broke thatr could be the problem, the oil pump attaches to the block. The oil line from the tank attaches to it and the pump is fastened by two screws. Remove the pump and drive gear then inside the hole at the plastic gear. If it is damaged it will need to be replaced which involves splitting the crankcase.

[Boat Doc']

Roperguy, If it has a pee hole it should pee. The pee hole is just a indicater, it can be plugged and the engine will still cool. If it's not hot and you can't unplug it it's no big deal. Start with the idle mixture at 1 1/2 turns and adjust from there. If the engine is mechanically sound you may end up rebuilding the carb.

[Maddie'sDaddy]

Boat doc


I just aquired an older I think 66 Mercury 6 hp motor and was wondering before i try and run it, I cannot seem to find anywhere that this motor would pick up water and pee it out for cooling purposes, any help before starting as I dont want to dry start and possibly hurt this motor. Do motors this small have impellers?

Thanks for any help.




Shaun MD

[Boat Doc']

Look above the prop, under the cav plate. There should be a screen.

[Maddie'sDaddy]

Thank you, I dont see a screen but there is a small hole there next to the bolt, possible intake for the water? I will make sure it is submersed before starting and see what happens.



Thanks again







MD