Stevens Marine Boat Doc'

[Boat Doc']

I would suggest you contact one of our sales managers. They are both very knowledgable and will give you the straight scoop without the B.S. Eric Pederson at our Tigard location, 1-800-225-7023 or Chris Burgi at our Milwaukie location, 1-800-576-7371. In my opinion I would opt for a different boat. The Alaskan is to small and narrow for what you like to do. We have a good selection of new and used boats with more coming in daily to select from. I'm sure we can find you something.

[foxer]

Boat Doc, my Suzuki specs 80w90 for the gearbox. I would like to switch to a high perf synthetic gear oil but I only find 75w90. Would there be an issue running the 75w90?

[Boat Doc']

Professionally, stick with what the manufacterer recommends. Personally it would be my opinion the weight you're considering will work just fine.

[WhiteWaterFisher]

Hey Boat Doctor
I have a 100 hp Merc with a pump ( 1988 I think). I'd like to get the impeller out. We have the shoe off and the bottom nut off with 4 spacers/washers, but can't get the impeller out. Should we heat the impeller and pry it out or do they make a special puller for those. It's been in the salt and has not been apart for maybe 6 or 7 years.
Is there a plastic sleeve that gets melted out?

Thanks for any help.

[Rogue Fisher67]

More problems Doc,
I haven't had anymore water in the cylinders and have been careful when launching. I've been out twice now and both times the motor (175 sportjet) sputters and dies after running normally. I noticed that the oil tank on the motor appears to be about half full of water. I pulled the cap off the remote tank and on the suction end drops of water dripped onto my hand. I have no idea where to start with this one. Thanks Doc.

[Boat Doc']

Two pry bars will get it off and it will require heat. Be carefull you don't bend the blades when you pry on it. You can get it hot enough to melt the plastic bushing, be careful of the fumes when the plastic melts.

[Boat Doc']

The water is coming from the tank in the boat. You need to thoroughly drain the tank in the boat and the oil line going to the tank on the engine. Also drain the water out of the engine reservoir. With every thing hooked back up and full of oil loosen the bleed screw on the oil pump and drain any water. Next I would mix the gas 50:1 and start it up. Loosen the cap on the engine reservoir and allow the tank to fill. Only thing left is hope no internal engine damage occured. If it doesn't rattle it may be ok. Go back to not mixing fuel after running a couple hours or just run that tank out. The water either came from contaminated oil supply or thru the pressure line when you had the water in the cylinders. You may want to document everything that has happened as you may have an insurance claim if something bad happens.

[Slayer]

I have attached a couple of pics of what I think is a water fuel seperator. It was originally plummed with 2 lines coming off of it, 1 for the main and one for the kicker. Well now I only need 1 line as my second line is a 2 stroke so i need different fuel line source. The weird thing about it is it has one fitting on one side and 2 fitting on the oher side. the one side with the two fittings has an in and out lines and the single side is an out line.
So a few questions?
1 - Is this a fuel/water seperator and if so how often should I change the filter?
2 - Can I plug one of the fittings and if so does it make a diiference in which "out" I plug?

http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/pump1a.JPG
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/pump2a.JPG

Thanks!
Chris
aka Slayer

[Boat Doc']

It is a water seperater. You should change it at least annually. more if you are experiencing water in the fuel or starvation issues. It doesn't matter which out fitting you plug.

[Slayer]

As always, Thanks! you're a great asset to this board and to Stevens Marina.

[Jennie@ifish]

Name: Jason Boyd

Hello Jen
I just took my boat out yesterday morning for the firs time
since September. My trim and tilt work fine ,but my starter
won't engage. I bought a new battery, but that didn't do it. I
put on new connectors from my cables and that didn't work
either. It's been garaged the whole time. It's a 2003 mercury 90
hp.. I guess I'm just dumbfounded on what could be the problem,
because it worked fine when I put her up for the winter and now
it don't.
If someone could tell me if they've had a problem like this
or know someone who has,could you tell me how they or you
remedied it. It would greatly be appreciated. Or also if there
is a web-site I could go to that could help me with this problem
would be great.

Thank you very much,

Jason Boyd

[Reel Knotty]

Hi Doc,

Have a 97 Merc 115 offshore with a starter problem. When trying to start the motor the starter will spin, but not engage the flywheel. I am assuming a selenoid (sp?) problem here? Any tips/tricks to make it work?

Thank you in advance.

[Boat Doc']

Make sure its in neutral, battery cables hooked up correctly and tight. Check the fuse on the engine near the starter solenoid. If everything checks ok you may have a bad solenoid/relay.

[Boat Doc']

If you carefully put a screwdriver under the starter drive and have someone turn the key you will force the drive into the flywheel. Spray some lube on the shaft and it should work fine.

[ripthevolcano]

Doc, a while back you suggested I dissasemble the carburator on my '93?'95? Mercury 2 stroke kicker because it would only idle w/ the choke out. You were right on and it runs great now. Found a bit of debris in the choke channel. Thank You! My only question is what is the proper method for adjusting the air/fuel mixture screw on the top of the carburator? I runs fine where I thought it was but I am sure it is not precise...

[Reel Knotty]

This didn't do the trick. I can easily move it up and down by hand (twists...assuming centrifical force moves the thing up to the flywheel). No rust, has lube. Added extra WD to make sure. What next???

[Boat Doc']

With the engine in the water, warmed up in forward gear at idle screw the mixture in until it starts to die, unscrew it until it runs smooth then unscrew it another 1/4 turn.

[Boat Doc']

Sorry for the delay, been out of town. Check the battery for full charge, battery connections being tight, battery cables for corrosion. If they all look ok then you will need to remove the starter and clean and possibly replace brushes.

[earthmuffin]

Morning Boat Doc,

I've got an Evinrude 28 SPL, Mod# E28ESLETD, Ser# G 03238209 That I use on my Smokercraft Alaskan and it doesn't seem to be charging.
Last fall I would just charge the battery after every trip and other than the inconvenience, everything seemed to work OK.
I decided to see if I could fix it for this year and when I started researching, found out that some of these motors didn't come equipped with a charging system.

Is there a quick and dirty way just by looking at the motor to tell if it has a charging pack installed?

Thanks in advance!

[Boat Doc']

According to my info it does, look for a rectifier with wires that attach to the terminal block, It's round about 1 1/2 inches in diameter with 3-4 wires coming out of it. Probably a red, couple yellows.

[earthmuffin]

Great, I found it on the right side of my motor.

Last time I checked it I tested it similiar to how you would test a car. Battery voltage with the motor off is approx 12.5 volts and it should go up to 13+ with the engine running.
Is this correct?????

Is there a better way to test it?

If it isn't charging, is the rectifier usually the problem?

[Boat Doc']

Answers are yes, yes, with an ohm meter between the yellow wires and ground. Continuity one way, reverse meter leads, no continuity the other way. And finally yes the rectifier is normally the problem.

[fishy2k]

Good Morning Doc, can a 1998 17' Alumaweld Stryker open be fitted with a Mercury 90 jet. It currently has a 1998 Mercury 60 with a prop. Can any 60 or 90 be coverted to a prop, and what would that cost be. What transom height would be needed. Thanks, Fishy

[Reel Knotty]

Ooops, my bad. When cleaning the battery contacts and cables (needed some dielectric), I must not have tightened the motor ground tight enough and it worked loose. Took another set of eyes to see it (since I *had* done the cleaning I figured that was checked. Lesson learned, check *again*).

[Boat Doc']

Yes it can, transom height would be 27 inches, 7 inches higher than it is now. They make a riser that can accommodate the application. If you are buying a new motor keep the lower unit so you can use it when needed. To purchase a lower unit will run 500 to 4000 depending on condition and where you get it.

[Petrel]

Boat Doc, I'm in the process of moving my batteries forward and I need about a 14' length of cable. What size cable do I need?

[Rogue Fisher67]

Boat Doc,
All of your help you have given me has worked great, however I keep discovering more problems. My 175 sportjet has had water in the cylinders, water in the remote oil tank, and now I have little pieces of magnet flying out from around the flywheel!!!! I'm getting VERY frustrated with this thing! Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

[Dr Strangelove]

Boat Doc,

I successfully pulled off the lower unit of my 2002 Honda 15hp to replace the impellor. As suspected, it had no veins left. I removed visible rubber chunks from the baseplate, some stuck in upper pump's housing, but should I worry that some pieces could have made it up into the upper unit? Is there a way to tell other than to install the new pump and reassemble for function?

--> Followup - put back together and everything's running fine, shifting fine, peeing fine. Nevermine.

Thanks, Doc Strangelove

[nsyhunter]

Boat Doc,

I have a Suzuki 115 4 stroke that has been sitting since October. Motor has been wrapped to protect from freezing temps (live in Salem). I forgot to put any fuel stabilizer in...should I put some in anyway before hitting the water for a test run?

Second question, looking for a 4 stroke kicker, the boat is a 20' Crestliner so I think a 9 hp should be plenty. How do you if you need a long or short shaft?

Thanks

[baddawg]

I have an 8hp 2003 honda kicker. When running after chaging the oil yesterday I noticed a little bit of water dribbleing near the back of the engine on the right hand side as you look from the front. There is a little corrosion so it looks like it has been doing this a while. The water comes from a gray housing that looks like it may have nylon treads in it. Any idea why this would leak water?
here is a link to some pics of the problem area:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/snohomishbaddawg/album?.dir=8134scd&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/ph//my_photos

Thanks for the help!

[backlash442]

BD, can you take a Merc 4.3L and convert it to a MPI or EFI? If so, what do you think it would cost?

Where would I find the gear ratio for the O/D? It's an Alpha One. Thanks.

[alanmikkelsen]

Hi Boat Doc,

Is there a 4 blade prop available for a 98 merc 8 hp? Thanks.

[Boat Doc']

Number 4 will work ok.

[Boat Doc']

Rust can build up causing the magnets to unbond, flywheel should be replaced before you damage other components

[Boat Doc']

Anything you do now is to late to change anything, however I would top it off and run it. Measure from the bottom of the boat to where the motor rests and get a troller to match that dimension. Different motors measure differently, so don't assume if it measures 25 inches that you need an XL motor.

[Boat Doc']

From what i'm told that is where you would screw in a flusher, If it's leaking then something is not seating. Either plug it or repair it.

[Boat Doc']

At this time I have not found a reliable, relatively inexpensive unit. Prices I have got run about 4K.

[Boat Doc']

They show a 9 3/4X6 pitch available.

[Waterfish]

Boat Doc,

I want to change the anode that is located on the bottom of my power trim unit (1991 Evinrude 70 hp), but I can’t figure out how to get it off. I removed the two bolts that hold the anode on, and although it will wiggle; it won’t drop down and come off. I tried forcing it by grabbing it with needle-nose pliers, but it still won’t come off. It feels like the ends of the anode are recessed into the power trim housing. :shrug:

http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/IMGP0649.JPG

Another question about anodes: how do you tell when its time to replace them? This flash photo makes the anode look bright, but actually it is chalky. It has a few small pits but it is still close to the original size. Can I just wire brush the anode, or once it turns chalky should I replace it? :idea:

[Boat Doc']

I would guess you are correct that it's recessed into the housing, don'tchange it if it doesn't need it. You can clean it with a stainless brush. All you need to do is remove the oxidation to restore its effectiveness.

[snit]

Doc,

I have a few of questions. I have 20' 2004 Intruder, std transom outboard, 82" bottom.

1. I want to install a second bilge pump with an auto switch. Is there an issue with screwing into the boxed girders to mount the pump? Is there anything like foam in the boxed girders?

2. When I wash down the deck the water and fish parts only drain at the sides where the deck meets the sides of the boat. Are there obstructions under the deck that will allow the fish parts to hang up on before they get to the bilge? Is there a good flush mount drain that can be added to the deck to make a quicker more direct path to the bilge?

3. I see the newer models have a 60 gallon fuel tank, the 2004 came with a 38 gallon tank. Is upgrading to the 60 gallon tank possibility without breaking the bank?


Boat Doc, wondering if you answered question 2 and 3? Ive got a 20', 2004 Intruder with the Alumadrive and the floor doesn't drain very well either. Wondering where and what type of drains to install. Also, a price on the larger fuel cell too. Thanks, snit

[backlash442]

Boat Doc, was wondering if that 4k was directed at my question in regards to swapping out to an EFI or MPI? Thanks.

[Boat Doc']

You won't have any issues screwing into the box girders. Some have foam some don't. You can also glue it down with silicone. You can trim the rear panels to allow better flow the center bilge area- pull the vinyl away, cut it and reglue. If you provide extra drainage on the sides it may get hung up and not make it to the bilge. You can add a 60 gallon tank, you will need to add another inspection cover to access the sender. Tank cost is 750.00.

[Boat Doc']

Yes the 4K is EFI cost. There is no kit, it's peiced together. There is other kits but they require programming on the water, which I don't think is very good. I would wait and someone should be developing a good bolt on system in the future.

[SMACKDOWN]

Boat Doc,

I have a 175 sportjet that has developed really stiff steering. I disconnected the steering cable and it seems like most of the stiffness is coming from the nozzle itself. Is there some kind of lube I should be using or do I need to replace the bushings? Also is there any way to lube the steering cable?

[Boat Doc']

Remove the nozzle and either clean or replace the bushings and lube with grease. There is no good way to lube the cable. You can grease the aft end and thats about it. If the cable is stiff it will need to be replaced.

[fishy2k]

I would like some specs for a 1998 Alumaweld Stryker open. I would like to know the bottom degree and bottom width and side height. Also, what would the side and bottom thickness's be. Thank You, Fishy

[Rusty]

Dear Boat Doc, :angel:

I have Sea Sport Hydraulic Steering on my 4 year old Alumaweld Formula Vee and today I notice that the steering wheel must be "cranked" almost 1 1/2 revolutions before I get any response, in either direction. :shrug:

What's up? Low hydraulic fluid..faulty cable..or ??? :bowdown:

I know exactly where to get it fixed, I just do not know what's wrong.

Puzzled in Portland! :confused:

Rusty

[Boat Doc']

It needs to be bled,filled.

[SEAWEED PETE]

Hey Boat Doc.
My Lowrance depth finder ( x135 ) temp sensor is off by about 20 degrees. What can I do to fix it ?

[Boat Doc']

Try setting it back to original settings or factory default. It's in the menu screen. This will erase any screen options you have set.

[Loneangler]

Boat Doc; I have a 2003 Smokercraft Tracer with a 40 hp 4 stroke Mercury fuel injected outboard. The throttle control has always given me fits since it was new. At idle, it trolls about 1.6-1.8 mph, depending upon conditions. I can increase the trolling speed to about 2.0-2.2 mph with the throttle but then the throttle seems to have a large "hump" that you have to get over. If I get over the "hump" the trolling speed is now about 3.0-3.1 mph-too fast. I have been just trying to tap the throttle when it gets to the "hump" and sometimes can get it set on my preferred speed of 2.5-2.7 mph but it is becoming frustrating to deal with it constantly. Is there something I can do to alleviate the "hump" and make the throttle smooth at the lower end? Thank you.

[Boat Doc']

Depends, it may be the cable is stiff and you can't move it a little without it jumping to far. If that is the case the cable would need to be replaced. It may also be that the way the throttle cam is cut it makes for difficult fine tuning with out going to far. Nothing you can do about that.

[ET]

Here's one for you Doc,

I just took my boat out for the first time in several months. The 70hp Yamaha misfired above 5,000 rpm. It ran fine at lower rpms. The 8hp Yamaha kicker ran fine off the same fuel.

Yes the fuel is old and needs to be replaced. I have a water filter on the fuel line.

My maintenance plan is to 1) change the spark plugs 2) drain the carbs 3) get new fuel 4) change the water & fuel filter

Any other ideas?

[Maddie'sDaddy]

Boat Doc

I have a Force 70 hp By mercury and i need to get the lower unit off, after removing the 5 bolts that are the main bolts holding it on ,the unit releases from upper part but there is a rod , i think the shifting rod still keeping it from coming all the way off, Any clues on how to release that rod without knowing the exact year of motor, i need to get it off to drill out a broken steering trim tab bolt.


Thanks for any help.



MD

[Boat Doc']

I think you're on the right track. Also check your battery connections. Is it over revving?

[Boat Doc']

The shift shaft is splined and should slide right off. Be careful you don't pull the shift shaft out of the gearcase. You might try some heat on the coupling if you can get to it.

[ET]

I think you're on the right track. Also check your battery connections. Is it over revving?

Thanks, I'll check the battery connections too. Hadn't thought of that. Why would battery connections cause problems at high rpms?

WOT with my prop is 5500rpm. This misfire is a new development. I purposely have my boat a little underpropped to give me good shot out of the hole when I have a couple guys my size on board. I'm happy to give up a little top end.

[Boat Doc']

If it's a battery powered ignition it could cause voltage spikes.

[Gr8waves]

Boat Doc,

I see so much conflicting information about electrical systems and whether or not they should be grounded to the hull. I have a Stryker Sportjet that came from Stevens with the following configuration:

+ large diameter cable from battery to motor
+ medium diameter cable from motor to dash fuse block
- large diameter cable from battery to motor
- medium diameter cable from motor to dash fuse block

Wipers, Bilge, Blower, Nav Lights, Horn and 12 power source use the fuse block for power and grounding.

Fish Finder is wired directly to the + and - terminals on the battery.

I added an additional automatic bilge wired directly to the + and - terminals on the battery.

I assume this is the way it should be, and have always avoided grounding anything directly to the hull. If I take a voltmeter and place the + lead to the + battery terminal and the - lead to the hull, what kind of a reading should I get?

Thanks,

Gr8waves

[bullshooter]

Boat Doc,
I have a North River Sea Hawk with a F150 Yami outboard. I noticed the other day that is has a primer ball and it is located inside the boat. I was under the impression that it had to be mounted on the outside of the transom. Is this ok?

[Boat Doc']

You would see battery voltage because the battery ground is going thru the block and pump to the hull. If you are experiencing any corrosion issues it may be necessary to add anodes as necessary.

[timinthegorge]

Hey Boat Doc,

I've got an '03 19' Stryker. Recently the gas guage began reading full, and I know it needs at least another 15 gallons for the tank to be full.

If I need a new sensor, what does it cost to replace, and how difficult is it to do? I live 2.5 hours from Steven's.... Thanks for your help, Tim

[Boat Doc']

Primer bulbs must be mounted outside.

[Maddie'sDaddy]

Boat Doc

Every trip out my motor has heavy oil residue coming from the area circled, its seems that it should be from the exaust hole which is right down from that area. If you cant see it well enough it is at the base of the cowling bottom where it meets the axle housing. Is this normal or is there a problem with a gasket in there or something, it also seems to be leaving a mild streak in the water while running. Help





MD

[nsyhunter]

Dear Boat Doc
I have a 2002 Suzuki 115 hp 4 stroke on a Crestliner Superhawk. I have noticed the voltmeter is showing a charge of 14 1/2 volts and my fish finder has a pop up screen saying high voltage warning. Assuming this is a motor issue of some kind??
Thank You

[Boat Doc']

Try running it with cover off and look for any leaks around the powerhead base, crankcase center line, fuel pump or lines etc. You should see a residue from where it's been leaking. It may be that the fuel is running out of the carbs when the engiune is tilted and it runs out when you lower it down. If thats the case you can run it out of gas before trailering.

[Boat Doc']

Probably not, check for loose battery connections and the battery condition. 14.5 volts is within specs. An easy solution may be to provide a draw, lites, stereo etc.

[td2pts]

Doc:
My buddy has a two battery system with a switch (1,2, both, off). He hooked up one of the batteries and left them plugged in to a trickle charger. He thought he could leave it and it would not overcharge. When he turned the switch to 1, the battery began spewing sulfur or something out the top. Any ideas. I ask because I have the same set-up and am afraid now to try to charge my batteries.

thanks
TD

[Boat Doc']

Something is very wrong with the setup, you should be able to do what you want with no problems.

[Maddie'sDaddy]

No signs of leakage with cowling off and running motor but it does sound clunky in the area of the head internally, and i noticed last time out that my fuel consumption seems to be excessive.
Should i do a compression check? Also pulled the plugs out after running and center piston seemed to have alot more smoke coming from it than the other two. As you can tell im no genious when it comes to 2 stroke motors. Thanks for your help.



MD

[Boat Doc']

Compression would be next step along with checking rod drop. It may also be a reed valve which would spit back thru the carb when idling. However none of the above items explains the oil residue which is probably the base gasket or exhaust cover leaking.

[Maddie'sDaddy]

Well i have done compression test and it showed about 120-121 lbs
all three cylinders, As far as the other two checks you mentioned i will have to get a manual ,so i can do some of this stuff without taking up your time with many questions, I did notice the oil residue seemed to have moved a little and is now coming out from the front part of the lower power head where it meets the down shaft housing, gonna have to take a closer look, its got me bugging.

Thanks again MD

[raidersteve67]

I have 1998 15hp merc 2 stroke i just got with the boat i bought > it runs great but it does leak oil from the exhaust ports is this normal I noticed it when i got home

[FISHON67]

Hello Doc,

I have a '05 Mercury 115hp 4 stroke and '06 Mercury 9.9 Bigfoot 4 stroke, do you have a suggestion for an oil that can be run in both motors? Is there any problem with buying oil filters for the 115 at the auto parts store?

I did a search and was little overwhelmed at the number of different suggestions.
:shrug:

Thank you!

[Duckboy23]

Boat Doc,

I've got an older mid 90's 9.9hp Merc two stroke. The problem is when I turn the throttle into forward it dies. Idle is fine. I was thinking dirty carb's or a faulty fuel line but wanted to check. Thanks.

[duckboy]

Duckboy23
I had the same deal with my little merc kicker.

I ran a pint of sea foam (from napa) through the carb and let her sit...

Saved it.


here is the thread....So I decided to roll up my sleeves today.

I have this little Merc 2 stroke motor, I'd guess it is a 1977 model in the 7.5 hp variety.
I've tried to sell it for a really long time. But no one wants her.
She will not run at all unless she is at W.O.T and in idle,and she dies immediately when a load is placed on her (fwd or reverse)

In her heyday, she was hung on my first duckboat, and she served me well on many occasions.
In fact, she got me back to shore on several occasions when my Big motor had given up the ghost in entirety.

Against the outgoing tide while on a flooding Gray's river.
In black sheets of rain and driving winds, salt spray in my face and Ice cold, soaked wool mittens.
A set of crossbreed dogs on the bow and 1/2 dozen ducks in the old anchor box (milk crate).
Over many seasons of being plugged with the silt of the last few miles of the columbia river, on one occasion with Dr Dunaway, she was so badly plugged with Baker bay Silt, that her cooling system only hissed out steam instead of a steady stream of water.
Her exhaust and carb fouled beyond all recognition, I endeavored to feed her a high performance diet, and see if a miracle could be encouraged.

She has busted Hangers and only one screwdown clamp left to hold her onto the transom. but today, I was able to force feed her some magic elixir of a petroleum product called Seafoam.
here is a blow by blow...


#1. this is why we need to get away from 2 stroke motors, the water in the can was crystal clear an hour earlier. (I will only be using the kicker if my new Big motor is belly up) http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/815/motor13du.jpg
I got a couple of Sawhoreses and hung my motor in a can of water, then i took off the cowling .
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/4976/motor27xy.jpg
I took the little grill off of the Carb, and blasted the motor several times with carb cleaner, let it set, and fired it up...
It died, and died, and died...
Finally I got it to run and i stayed on the throttle despite her constant desire to die. She stalled and quit several times, but we kept at it until She was hot, maybe 5 minutes at 1/2 throttle.
Then I got out the seafoam and while she was at 1/2 to 3/4 W.O.T. I slowly poured in the seafoam (down a long tube and into the open carb) she tried to die, so I slowed the delivery of the seafoam and she came back... then I gave her another few oz and flooded her with it... I let her sit for 5 minutes, and then fired her up again... What a blast of smoke!!!
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/6360/motor39fn.jpg
I then repeated the process about 5 more times, ultimately I ran an entire pint of Seafoam through the engine, and it seems to have worked... now she is running and once again a little Ripper!
http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/7198/motor51sd.jpg
A thick cloud rolled throughout the neighborhood.
http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/7662/motor68lc.jpg
She is alive!
http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/411/motor76ew.jpg
Here she is running clean.... at least cleaner

I have raised the dead.
http://imageshack.us/img/imageshack.png

[Boat Doc']

Yes it's normal, just unburned fuel/oil.

[Boat Doc']

Any 10-30 oil that meets the FC-W certification will work. If the auto parts store has a direct replacement it will work fine. Do not try matching a filter by thread size and sealing area.

[Boat Doc']

I would try adjusting the idle mixture screw richer first, if it doesn't respond then clean out the carb, the Seafoam will remove carbon but will not remove debris from a carb.

[FISHON67]

Any 10-30 oil that meets the FC-W certification will work. If the auto parts store has a direct replacement it will work fine. Do not try matching a filter by thread size and sealing area.

Does the same apply to 100% synthetic with the FC-W certification?

Thank you for the clear and precise information. You've always been a big help.

:cheers:

[fish_on]

Primer bulbs must be mounted outside.

I think every SeaHawk out there has the primer bulbs under the battery box. Are you saying they are all wrong, is this something we should all take up with NR as a safety issue?

[Boat Doc']

Yes it does

[ET]

Here's one for you Doc,

I just took my boat out for the first time in several months. The 70hp Yamaha misfired above 5,000 rpm. It ran fine at lower rpms. The 8hp Yamaha kicker ran fine off the same fuel.

Yes the fuel is old and needs to be replaced. I have a water filter on the fuel line.

My maintenance plan is to 1) change the spark plugs 2) drain the carbs 3) get new fuel 4) change the water & fuel filter

Any other ideas?

GOOD TO GO!!:smash: Did the above and she runs like a champ again. Thanks Doc.

[Boat Doc']

Here is a clarification, primer bulbs can be mounted anywhere along the length of the fuel line inside or outside. Sorry for the mixup.

[HntnFsh]

Here is a clarification, primer bulbs can be mounted anywhere along the length of the fuel line inside or outside. Sorry for the mixup.

Just curious if this is something new.I was always told they had to be out in the open.

Thanks,
HntnFsh

[Boat Doc']

I thought they had to be outside of the boat but wasn't able to find any supporting documents

[fish_on]

I asked USCG on the Salty board about it and here is the reply.


There are no regulations on the location of a primer bulb on outboards. Sometimes people place a bulb in the fuel system on inboard applications to act as a anti-siphon valve but this is unnecessary as they are already built into the system by regulation.

Dan

[Boat Doc']

Thanks, people I talked to assumed they had to be outside, including myself, We all know what assume means!

[HntnFsh]

I guess my next question would be , Is this for all motors?or only outboards.Is it different for inboards?

[Boat Doc']

outboards only, inboards don't use primer bulbs. Any other specific questions can be answered at uscg.com and search for fuel systems.

[HntnFsh]

Thanks Doc.

I'll check out the link.

The reason I asked about the inboards was because I know of people wanting to put primer bulbs on their sport jets instead of the momentary switch.

[Fshklr]

Boat Doc....

I recently purchased a older model Evinrude 40 Workhorse, manual start(68-87, still trying to find age?), with tiller still attached, along with steering controls and center console.

I have 2 questions...

1st After starting the beautiful motor before purchase(you could eat whip cream of the factory paint and cowling inside and out), it fired right up but no water stream emitting from rear port...owner had impeller replaced last oct, and quickly dropped lower unit to see if tubes possibly mis aligned....

nope...right where it should be, and you can blow thru the rubber hose inside cowling and hear it with your ear to the void once lower unit is removed.... re installed lower unit, and hooked up shift linkage, but when running/idling it does have the tinyest amount of air comming from tube in cowling but no water stream. It looks simplistic, and have yet to get a manual.

Does this model have a water pump??? Can I do it myself??

2nd Can someone like myself...mid level average do it yourselfer, make that motor tiller driven and controlled with minimal headaches again???

Motor is white cowling, greenish olive factory paint.

The tiller handle has a black throttle twist control, but what about engaging for forward and reverse..again is this something a slightly above average greese monkey can do.

and lastly...(throwing out a 3rd question)
Can this motor be made an electric start???

Thanks

[Boat Doc']

most of those models don't have a water flow indicater, you should verify it's not overheating. Next if you have the parts you should be able to convert it easily. If you have the shift lever it probably goes into the side of the cowl or it's already there and the control is attached to it. The brackets should all be there for electric start but finding parts may be a challenge. Also make sure there is a ring gear on the flywheel. If you have a model number we can tell you the year.

[Fshklr]

most of those models don't have a water flow indicater, you should verify it's not overheating. Next if you have the parts you should be able to convert it easily. If you have the shift lever it probably goes into the side of the cowl or it's already there and the control is attached to it. The brackets should all be there for electric start but finding parts may be a challenge. Also make sure there is a ring gear on the flywheel. If you have a model number we can tell you the year.

Here's a fe pics of what I'm working with...

Cowling
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/cowling.jpg

Motor, which appears to be without ring gear, so manual start it stays
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/motor11.jpg
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/motor21.jpg

Here is the impeller the guy said he just replaced.....
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/impeller.jpg

Here is the one currently installed...
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/impeller1.jpg

Here is the impeller housing which is damaged on the intake underside edge???
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/impeller_housing.jpg

Now to find an impeller and new housing.

[Fshklr]

Boat Doc

This is an 83 commercial unit 40hp workhorse.

it looks as if the motor was started dry????? or are the fins on the impeller facing the wrong way,

what is the direction of the fins when the new one is installed???

This is currently what is on the motor from the pics above.

The case impeller case got hot enough to slip the inner bushing/race about 3/16th's of an inch.


http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/impeller1.jpg

[Linejerk]

Boat Doc
I have a Fiber form with a I/O 302 Ford I was running down the river, my first time out this year and all was running well then all of the sudden the engine just died like some one had shut off the key I want to start it back up but when I turned the key nothing happened the dash lights came on but the starter did not turn over I was able to run a hot wire from the hot side of the coil to the hot side of the solenoid and then jump the solenoid with a screw driver it did turn over just fine like that so it is not the starter but at first it did not start because I had the key in the off position but ones I turn the key to the on position it started right up, I changed out the solenoid when I got home thinking that it was the problem but this did not fix it. Any other ideas???:shrug:

[Boat Doc']

The engine rotates clockwise, it does have a telltale, easy to see why it didn't work, yes it was run dry. Either clean up or replace the housing and impeller and you should be good to go.

[Boat Doc']

May be the engine harness plugin. I would check ignition switch output voltage from the coil forward and see where you get it back. then either bypass the bad portion or run another wire. Same thing for the solenoid. Before messing with the solenoid wiring check the neutral safety switch in the control.

[Kokeaddict]

hey boat doc
i have a honda 130 and a yamaha ht8 and 2 of the last 3 springs i have had the water pumps go out on both engines--could this be from not winterizing and leaving the boat outside all winter!--i was under the impression that outboards if used throughout the winter didn't need to be winterized! any help

[Boat Doc']

Water pumps drain themselves, If the blades are burn't its been run dry, If they are ripped off and the blades aren't burn't they may have been frozen to the housing when trying to start. It's a good idea to replace them annually any way.

[Danno]

Boat Doc, After having troubles starting my Honda 90 on one battery the other day, I switched to a second battery. Once started, I went to switch the Perko switch back to battery one and accidently went to the OFF position. I've read that this is not a good thing. I immediatley switched back to battery one (say, after 5 to 10 seconds) but the engine died. In order to get fishing, I pull started my kicker and went to our anchor spot (not a far drive).

I let the kicker idle for a while to charge the #1 battery and latter that evening, the 90 started just fine and took us back to the dock. Could I have damaged the alternator or something on the 90 while not on a battery?

Thanks,
-Dan

[Boat Doc']

Possibly the charging system, Check the battery voltage when running to confirm it is above battery voltage and doesn't exceed approx 14.7 volts. If you don't have a volt meter your fishfinder may have a voltage screen.

[duckboy]

Boat Doc,

I picked up my Merc 2005 60 hp 4 stk from you guys to push the duckbomber.
I have seen some blurbs about upgrade kits for certain motors to beef up their horsepower.

Am I fully optomized with the 60 hp head, or is there a kit to beef it up to a 7o plus?

[BalouSC]

Boat Doc;
I have an Aluminum boat with a 2000 Mercruiser 350 Mag MPI/Bravo I with 420 hours on it. I have run the boat for about a season with no problems. While using the boat a couple of weeks ago it seemed real sluggish and would miss under power. Sometimes when I would throttle it back down it would just die. At idle it would seem to run perfect. Under power it seemed way under powered. I pulled the fuel filter/water separator off and it was full of junk and what I am sure was water. The fuel in it was orange. I replaced it with a new filter. The boat seemed to run great on the next trip. About a week later it started up with the same symptoms. I pulled the filter off and it was clean. I checked for water and there wasn't any in it. I called the dealer and they told me to change out the plugs, cap and rotor. The plugs were all black and one broke when I removed it from the hole. None of them had damage on the ignition end (as if a piston was hitting it). The cap had little mounds of green crap on each one of the connections on the inside. The rotor had some rust/acid looking stuff on the top of it. I replace all of these. The plug wires seemed to be in decent condition with no evidence of corrosion. I started the boat up and ran it for a while. After it warmed up it began surging. It got worse and worse until it died. When it died it backfired through the intake a little. I rechecked the fuel filter but all seemed well. I would like to check the gap between the igniton sensor and the sensor wheel connected to the rotor. What is that gap supposed to be? After removing the ignition sensor and inspecting it closely, I believe that the area in between the two plastic posts is corroded away. This is the area that the sensor wheel passes through. Are both these surfaces critical? Since it backfired, I am convinced it must be ignition related and have ruled out fuel. Is my assumption appropriate? Do these motors have a history of going through distributors? What about the coil, or even (gulp) timing chain/belt? I am at a loss here. I am thinking that I will go ahead and change out the plug wires. What would you recommend? Thanks for the help, Balou.

[alanmikkelsen]

Boat Doc,

My son-in-law has a new Optimax 250 sport jet. It keeps fouling the bottom right hand plug as you are looking at it from the back. He had a mechanic tell him this motor is known for this, but that sounds pretty sketchy to me. The motor only has 13-15 hours and fouls the plug within 1-2 hours of running. I can't believe that an engine that is this sophisticated does this on a regular basis.
Any ideas? Thanks.

[Boat Doc']

There is no kits that I am aware of to boost power. You should keep it stock to keep it reliable and avoid voiding the warranty.

[Boat Doc']

It's not normal, possible causes- low operating temp, air or fuel pressure not correct, sticky injector, bad reed valve. If the local tech is out of ideas have the dealer contact tech service for assistance.

[cptdarel]

Hey Boat Doc
I have a 1985 Merc 50 hp Electric start, 4 cyl. installed my electrionics and at idle volts reads 13.6 v, then on cruse it climbs to 16.8v 16.9.
went home and checked it at the battery, w. digi volt meter, and same thing. what is wrong? thanks Darrell

[Boat Doc']

I would replace thew sensor and rotor wheel, the black ones have known issues like you are experiencing. They tell you to push the sensor outward until the gasket is slightly compressed and tighten it down.

[Lilcorky]

Boat Doc I replaced a water pump on my 1991 4 hp Evinrude the other day. I noticed there was no rubber seal on the pump housing around the drive shaft. It is a long saft motor and when I backed in to test on the boat got in it in a little deeper than normal. When I ran the motor there was air bubbles comming out between the the top of the shaft extension where it meets the housing coming off the motor. What causes this air ? The shaft turning? No seal around the drive shaft? Is it a problem.

[Boat Doc']

Exhaust flows thru that area and it is normal. You can clean the mating surfaces and make it make it better.

[wilsonriverfisher]

sir boat doc,

My cowling latch broke its moves freely and stuck in the lock position! Its a 25 hp 2000 4 stroke merc? What should i do?

[BalouSC]

Thanks Boat Doc! I will let you know how it works out!:cheers:

I would replace thew sensor and rotor wheel, the black ones have known issues like you are experiencing. They tell you to push the sensor outward until the gasket is slightly compressed and tighten it down.

[toomanydenny]

:bowdown: First a huge thank you! for taking the time to answer questions and offering your professional opinion. I'm hoping you can help me. I have a 2-stroke merc. 6hp kicker. Always ran superb and would idle troll all day with no problems. Gas got fouled with water. Took to shop and they rebuilt carb. Carb plugged again first trip out after running a full tank of gas through it. Shop took apart and cleaned. Made sure hose and tank were clean. Motor seemed to run fine at first but after a tank of fuel it started to run rough and wouldnt idle right. Tried the Seafoam and it cleared right up. Amazing product! Now I have noticed the bottom cylyinder is constantle fouling the plug. Top plug will be black but dry, while bottom plug is wet and full of carbon. Also seems to be going through more fuel. I tried cutting back a little on oil added to tank, didnt seem to help. After several hours of trolling it starts to act up. If I clean plug and carb with seafoam it seems to improve for a while and then same thing happens again. I think there must be something wrong with lower cylinder. I look forward to your reply as Im not sure what my next move should be.... :help:

[Green Machine]

Boat Doc,

I have a 2001 Trophy with a 4.3 Liter Mercruiser. After I run for more than 10 minutes, or when she's good and warm, I can't shut her off. I turn the key to off and the motor will "diesel". I know this is hard on the motor, so I have to turn the key back to on, let her run a little bit, then try again. It usually works after a couple of tries. What causes "dieseling"? It only does this when the motor is good and warm. I am taking the boat in for a tune-up next week, but would like have a rough idea so they don't hose me!! Thanks for your help.

Green Machine

[Boat Doc']

Check compression first, if ok and has good spark and carb is clean I would remove the reed block and make sure the reeds are ok and the o-ring that seals it. Next I would remove the powerhead and inspect the exhaust tube to see if it is plugged. Visually inspect the lower crank seal to make sure it's not broken, finally remove the exhaust cover and replace the gaskets and inspect the divider plae for holes or breakage. But first check the simple stuff! The above checks are listed in order of ease and commonallity.

[Boat Doc']

Dieseling is caused by excessive heat in the combustion chamber. On a carburated motor you can shut off spark but you can't shut off the flow of fuel from the float bowl. Things to check are correct timing, spark plugs, engine temp to hot, Fuel idle mixture and idle speed as low as possible. It is necessary to let the engine idle for 1 minute before shutting off to minimize the problem. If all of the above are in specs it should be ok.

[toomanydenny]

:) A quick thank you Boat Doc. I know I speak for all who use this site by saying... :bowdown: :clap: :bowdown: sir...

[BalouSC]

Originally Posted by Boat Doc' http://www.ifish.net/board/images/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://www.ifish.net/board/showthread.php?p=1488261#post1488261)
I would replace thew sensor and rotor wheel, the black ones have known issues like you are experiencing. They tell you to push the sensor outward until the gasket is slightly compressed and tighten it down.



Ok Doc;
I tried the sensor and I still have the same problem as listed in my post above. One more symptom to add. When I start it and let it run for a little while in the driveway, it runs fine for a while and after it seems to warm up it begins to surge and eventually dies. I noticed that the idle will get a little rough, then I give it a little throttle and then let it go back down to idol and it begins to surge until it will die. I am thinking of changing the coil and plug wires. If you remember, I have changed the plugs, cap, rotor, star wheel and ignition sensor. What do you think? Am I on the right track with the coil? I was also thinking about maybe the MAP sensor or maybe the TPS? I am 99% sure that my fuel is good. What do you think? Once again, I really appreciate your help!! Balou

[Scott B]

Not sure if I got the right spot to post a question or not. If I did here it is.

I have a 97 Force 75 Hp that I bought from Stevens Marine new. I want to replace the water pump, the thermostat, and decarb the motor. Can you give me some advise as to which products to use and who to contact about the water pump and the thermostat. The engine serial # is 0E252860.

Thanks for all your help

Scott

[adventuren1]

I have a 6 gallon portable gas tank that does not have a vent to open or close. When it gets hot the tank expands and looks like it could explode. If I leave it hooked to the motor it leaks fuel on the ground. I have left the cap loose but if I forget to tighten it before a trip..more spilled fuel. Is there a good solution to this bloated tank? I have a 3 gallon tank with a screw type vent on the cap. Is there a replacement cap for the 6 gl?

Thanks, Howard

[adventuren1]

One more question. I have been chasing wires in the used boat I just got. I have a large wire from the main battery neg. running forward to the trolling motor battery. What would that be for? the trolling motor will be hooked directly to the front battery. There is no positve from the back of the boat hooked to the front batt.
Thanks again, Howard

[k9jeff]

Doc-
I have a 1986 merc 115 inline six with a jet pump. Recently I had a stainless inpeller installed, new water pump, plugs, cd's, and a compression check shows 130 on all six holes.

I took it out today for the first time since the work was done and it popped out of the hole and hit plane fast and ran great for the first 150 yards then the power cut by at least 40%. I shut it down and used the kicker. A few hours later I started it and did the same thing again.

I recently replaced the floor in the boat and did the fuel lines while I was there. I also put in a new fuel filter (spin on located on the rear bulkhead) and bulb (its on correct). The engine runs great a idle, and starts with a click of the key, but there is a power loss after a short time on plane.

I am thinking fuel realted, any ideas???

Thanks in advance

[Boat Doc']

You need to get a manual and check the various components that can affect your symptoms, you are on the right track. Start with fuel pressure and go from there.

[bighugetrout]

Boat Doc',

I just purchased a sled with a 95' Mercury 115/80 jet. The boat has not run for the last two years. Yesterday I took her to the gas pump and filled her remaining half tank with new premium gas.

On the water, the main motor seemed sluggish and took a few runs to get her running top rpms. The motor hacked, like trying to clear your throat, before running well. I ran her for about 20 minutes with no problems but after stopping and idling a bit, the motor ran about 60%.

I plan on replacing the fuel/water separator, install new plugs and replace fuel filter. Any other suggestions to my symptoms? Thank you.

[alanmikkelsen]

Boat Doc,
I have a 1995 Mercury 115/80 jet. The alarm is sounding for quite awhile when cold starting, and comes on at a low idle. It seems to be oiling ok, but I can't be sure. Any ideas (I'm planning on taking it into my local dealer.) Thanks for any suggestions.

[fishgetter]

Boat Doc,

I posted this on the main board but thought I would ask your opinion?

I have twice had my outboard alarm come on after running at mid throttle for 10 min or so, separate trips. I immediatly shut the motor off and looked for problems, none found and the alarm went off the next time I truned the key on, aprox 1 min later. I do not know what this alarm is or what it means. The oil levels are good and the motor is putting out water. Any ideas. I have a 1991 Mariner 175 which is new to me, I had it serviced in Jan and they gave it a clean bill of health? Will this alarm only sound once,,,,,,can I assume if the alarm goes off that the problem is gone????Any input would be appreciated.

[Boat Doc']

The cavitation plate should be even with the bottom. However gains in performance can be seen by raising it higher with the drawback being ventilation on acceleration and in turns. If the motor is all the way down a different prop can eliminate your problem and give you added performance.

[Boat Doc']

Contact any of our parts people and they can assist you.

[Boat Doc']

The tank has to be vented for it to function correctly, if you can't find a replacement cap the you should replace the tank assy.

[Boat Doc']

I would guess at one time the batteries were tied together, course they are not now.

[Boat Doc']

Check the reverse cup, when in forward it should be tight against the housing, if it's not the water will hit it and try to push into reverse causing a power loss. If it's a fuel issue you should be able to squeeze the primer and have it work. It may also be dropping spark on one or more cylinders, you can verify that with a timing lite. Check the shift adjustment first.

[Boat Doc']

I think you're on the right track, you could also remove the drain screws on the carbs and flush fresh fuel thru them, take a fuel sample and make sure it's clean. If you still have problems check for spark.

[Boat Doc']

The alarm on this motor is telling you it's hot or the oil is low in the reservoir or a faulty sensor or module. Good Luck

[Boat Doc']

Constant alarm is overheat, intermittant alarm is oil related- either the engine reservoir is low or the drive isn't turning. If the alarm doesn't sound then the problem has gone away. The most common thing is the engine mounted reservoir isn't full to the top.

[bighugetrout]

Boat Doc', Thanks for the reply. After taking the front plastic intake cover off, I noticed some 2 stroke oil pooled up on the bottom carb intake. Could this be the possible problem for my lack of top end? I realized that filling up the 2 stroke oil reservoir and tilting the motor all the way forward produced the pool of oil inside the cowling.

[fishgetter]

Boat Doc,

I took your advise and am in process of replacing the water pump on the 175 Mariner that had the overheat alarm issue. The impeller and housing looks ok but I will replace. Are there any tell tale signs to look for? The fins seem to be peranently shaped/curved. No Chunks Missing, no excessive wear. If anything I migh guess it could spin on the liner ring at higher Rpms?

I ran the boat in the drive way for a few min today with the water hose adapter. The watter coming out of the tell tale was hotter than I expected, could barely stand it on my hand, is this normal. I aslo seemed to see a spit if you will when up to 3K RPM's.

Wha are your thoughts on the thermostats, may this be an issue? How hard are they to get to, I have not recieved my repair book yet.

Thanks for your help it is very very nice and you are a true friend!

fishgetter

[Brent & Kim]

I am exchanging my Powerhead for a 1984 evinrude 2 cyl. 60 hp. I have the wiring, carbs, and starter off. Where is the powerhead mounted and how do I relaease it to pull it off? Is there somewhere I can get an exploded view of the motor and bolts so when I put this back together, I only have to do it once. Also is there anything that has a torque spec on it that I will have to address?

[Boat Doc']

Maybe, remove the drain plug on that carb and see if it is oil or gas and flush fuel thru it incase its oil.

[Boat Doc']

If the blades have enough of a set they could cause a high speed overheat, replace the impeller and gaskets. Also look at the stainless liner in the upper housing, if it is grooved or the locating tab is broken replace the housing. Looks like it may have been a while since it was serviced, you may consider getting a complete kit. The thermostats would cause a low speed overheat, they are located at the top of each head. If the poppet valve is sticking it could cause a overheat above 1800 rpm. However do the water pump first.

[Boat Doc']

You need to get a manual, it will have all the info you need.

[fishgetter]

Thanks,

Boat Doc, The manual is first on my list, and the parts second. Thanks again.

[fishgetter]

Boat Doc,

Thanks for the info, I installed the new water pump and it works!!! Not to bad to do either.

I notice no difference as far as a stream. I find it hard to watch the tell tale with the thermostats, the first couple of minutes always scares me but it does pump it out eventually.

I measured the water temp and it was about 136, sounds normal. I got no alarms but I have only had it happen twice when on the water for a couple of min. I will run it on Saturday and let you know if I see anything but good results.

Thanks Again!!!! The book is a lifesaver!!!!!

fishgetter

[Steele4]

Boaty Doc,

I have a 97 doral splash sportjet 120xr. Fuel starvation problem. A vacume in the fuel system is forming somewhere in the fuel uptake, between the tank and the oil injection system. There is not a vacume in the tank and there is no anti-siphon valve installed. Vacume forms after running at full throtle for between 10 and 30 min., engine surges and then quits. If I release the vacume It will run again. Hooking up another fuel tank fixes the problem. Removed uptake tube and screen was clean of debris. Could uptake clog while running until vacume forms, then when vacume released debris falls back to bottom of tank leaving screen completely clean? What do you think?

[Steele4]

I know there is no vacume in tank bc running without fuel cap doesn't fix the problem or release the vacume in the line.

[Boat Doc']

I would replace the fuel line from the tank to the engine, they can delaminate, if that doesn't work then look for debris in tank plugging the intake.

[Steele4]

Thanks for the input, I will replace the fuel line and see if the symptoms persist.

[Steele4]

Doc,
I replaced the fuel line and thought the problem was fixed. Filled tank with gas and boat ran fine for over an hour. next day filled boat again and ran for another hour or so burned 1/2 tank of gas and started doing doughnuts and sharp turns and engine started cutting out. restarted engine and ran at wot for about 30 seconds and cutout again. primer bulb I installed in the line was not flat and pumping bulb while the symptoms occured didn't keep the engine running. I swiched to a portable fuel tank and the engine ran fine. I have put water remover and seafoam in the fuel tank a few weeks ago. If there was water in the tank, could there be a layer of bad gas in the tank that I am stirring up and thats what is killing the engine? I don't understand.I removed fuel uptake and it was completely free of debris.
Thanks,
Steele

[Boat Doc']

It could be the pick up tube is cracked or loose causing it to have a problem when the fuel level is low enough to uncover it. Any contaminated fuel would settle to the bottom of the tank. So that is probably not the problem. The problem would seem toi be between the fuel connecter and the tank, you need to isolate it.

[Slayer]

Boat Doc!

I would like to do the general routine maintenance on my motors. I would like to make sure that both motor are in good running shape before summer. So . . . let me know if I have missed anything in my list.

Thank you,
SLAYER aka Chris W

I have a 99 Merc ML 4 stroke 40 HP and plan to do the following, (motor is about 100 hours)

- spark plugs (3?), oil, oil filter, lower unit gear oil and the water fuel sperator

I also have a 93 merc ML 2 stroke 8 HP, recently I am having problems with (difficulty starting, running, and specifically iddling at low speeds) this motor after accidently running the tank dry, not a single issue with until this incident.

- spark plugs (2) and lower unit gear oil. Threre looks like there either is some type of gas filter in there too but do not know if that can be replaced?

I also plan on hitting all of the zerks I can find.

Any other things I missed? Any other general information you can provide would be great.

And more last question, is there a different prop that I can use on my 40 HP that would increase power overall but especailly in take off power?

Thanks!

[Steele4]

Boat Doc,
The pickup tube doesn't appear to be cracked or leaking, and the priming bulb continues to hold fuel when the engine is cutting out.

[Boat Doc']

Looks like you got everything but water pumps, on the 8 you may have to rebuild the carb.

[Slayer]

is that some type of filter on the inside of the 8HP that I can replace? Any info on the prop for the 40HP?

[Boat Doc']

Well, you changed fuel supply and hose, so the problem has to be related to one or all of those components. Or it was coincidental that it ran well and you have an intermittant ignition problem. You might try running it longer on the remote tank to confirm.

[Boat Doc']

The 8 filter is easily removed and cleaned, be careful you don't loose the o-ring on the top when you unscrew the canister. You can use a smaller prop on the 40 to give a better hole shot, be careful you don't over rev. Having a tach would be ideal.

[Rock Phish]

Hey, boat doc. I was wondering if you could help me out. I have a 1965 Evinrude and I'm trying to figure out how to attach the cables to the motor to make them work. It has a place for a cable clip on each side of the motor, one for throttle and one for gear shifting. On the left side, there's a post about 2 inches tall with a ball end about 6 inches from the clip..and this lever gives it gas. The right side has the place for a clip and then behind about 6 inches is the gear shifter. I need fittings that make the cables attach properly to shift and trottle. also, I have 1 control lever and was told that it would control the trottle and the shifting when hooked up right. The cable ends now just have a nut and bushings on the ends. Any suggestions are appreciated even if it's to another boat mechanic or parts store.

Sincerely, :bowdown:

rockphish

[knot_tyer]

Doc!
I have a '91 200 merc with a pump, you boys put a 60 horse tilla on it many yrs ago. I am wanting to take the pump off and put a prop unit on. How will the reverse cable hook up or am I dead in the water? Thanx!!!

[Small Fry]

Doc I have 94 Rouge trailer. I want to replace the wheel bearings. How can I get part numbers with out having to pull the wheels off.

[Boat Doc']

That was originally designed for dual lever controls, The single lever may not have enough throw. The motor needs to be adapted to whatever style of cables you decide to use or have. 2 places to help you would be Harvey Marine in Aloha or Oregon City Marine. They both probably have lots of old parts laying around and should be able to help.

[12pulls]

Doc,

I have a 2003 Super Vee '17. Is it a problem to remove the two floatation boxes that are on the floor. I have a 2 stroke ML40, not the heaviest of motors. Also, should I mix water with Ouzo or drink it on the rocks?

[knot_tyer]

That was originally designed for dual lever controls, The single lever may not have enough throw. The motor needs to be adapted to whatever style of cables you decide to use or have. 2 places to help you would be Harvey Marine in Aloha or Oregon City Marine. They both probably have lots of old parts laying around and should be able to help.
Thanks! I contacted Oregon city marine. They think they can help!

[Boat Doc']

Sorry for the delay, been out of town. You need to fab a rod to go from the shift lever to the linkage on the motor. Should be pretty easy to do.

[Boat Doc']

The best way is to remove the bearings, they change axle manufactures occassionally.

[Boat Doc']

The flotation boxes are there to provide level flotation. The manufacturer and dealers are required to install them and they should not be removed. However it's your boat and you can do anything you want to it. If you do remove them it will not float level when submerged and will probably sink.

[bigwiz]

hey doc my 16 ft blue fin has a 1986 40hp johnson and the trouble iam haveing is it will over heat in low rpms but when the alarm sounds all u have to do is speed up and it will turn it self off so what do i need to do to correct the problem thanx

[Boat Doc']

I would replace the water pump impeller.

[Steele4]

Boat Doc,
My Sportjet 120 bogs at WOT. If You cover one side of the air intake with your hand while running at wot, the engine rpms increase. If you back off of wot a tiny bit the engine runs ok. Intermittently the problem gets worse and you have to cover air intake to get on plane. I think the engine is running lean and I no longer think it is a fuel restriction in the line or tank. I was going to replace the fuel pump, spark plugs, and have the carbs cleaned and rebuilt. What do you think? COuld this be timing or electrical?WIll running lean destroy the engine? Should I replace fuel pump? Mechanic says by the time he rebuilds old pump it would cost about the same to buy a new one, bc it takes alot of time.
P.S. I have run 3 tanks of gas with seafoam through the engine.
Thanks for your input.

[Boat Doc']

Running lean can burn a piston, You should remove and clean the carbs, and rebuild or replace the fuel pump. By covering the air intake you are confirming it is a fuel problem.

[Streetwalker]

Boat Doc
I have twin Yami 115 4 strokes. 90 hrs on them. One of them is making oil, about 8 oz or so in 4 hrs of run time. Done this since day one. The other one holds oil level just fine. Seems to happen more in spring when we have colder water. Before I go the route of taking it in, do you think it it could be a thermostat & how hard is that to change. Also have a hot hands on a t8 that has stopped working what would be the course of action on that.

[oregonoutdoors]

Hey boat Doc,

I am replacing the wood/upholstery on my 79 reinell with a Volvo penta 4cyl. I am having trouble getting the shifter body separated from the wood in order to install the new wood. I got the handle and wood screws out, but the plate on the outside is stuck. There was a retainer clip and I removed that. Does part of this screw off? I am afraid to torque it too hard. I took pictures to help explain my babbling self.
Thanks in advance- Ian

http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/boat_0024.jpg


http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/boat_0014.jpg


http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/boat_0033.jpg

[Boat Doc']

Normally making oil is caused by running cold- stuck thermostat, or it thinks it's running could- bad sensor. Other remote possibility is leaking powerhead or adapter plate gasket or the rings haven't seated or not firing on a cylinder.

[Boat Doc']

If I remember correctly the plate unsrews, try it carefully, memory isn't what it used to be.

[Get Bit]

Boat Doc,

I recently purchased a new 40 Hp 2 stroke Merc. The motor ran great the first few times I had her out until this weekend. It started blowing the 20amp fuse inside the cowling that allows the tilt/trim and starter to work. Its blown the fuse twice now and I can't for the life of me figure out whats going on. The only thing thats changed has been the installation of a Lowrance fish finder. I routed the power for that through the power that comes to the panel that holds both the bilge pump and light circuits. Could it be the depth finder thats blowing the fuse? I'm totally at a loss here??? :shrug: :shrug: :shrug:

Get Bit

[Boat Doc']

Wouldn't be the fish finder, sometimes the trim wires can get pinched in the control. If it's under warranty take it to the dealer for repair.

[Pickles]

Boat doc, here is my question, I have a 1997 8hp merc 2 stroke kicker. When I first start the motor up in the morning the kicker runs fine, but after several hours of trolling I lose spark on my lower cylinder and therefore get a rough running condition as well as a popping/backfiring and no power (dead hole)! The reason I know I am loosing spark on the cylinder was because my TR 1 pickup coil goes around that particular plug wire, and when the cylinder dropped out so did my Autopilot. When I got home I checked the plugs and sure enough that plug was wet (not firing)! Though once the motor cools down, I get spark out of both coils! Would you think this could be a coil dropping out when it gets hot or possibly the control box or stator?:help:

[Boat Doc']

9 times out of 10 it is the switchbox. Other remote possibilities are the trigger and coil.

[iampapajack]

Boat Dr. 2001 NW Jet 350 Chev Hami 212 120 Hrs. ...I am second owner, first owner had boat built with Carb. (Redline Holly equipted) I want to switch to fuel injection. What can of worms am I opening? Are there places that have entire changeovers (like a car wrecking yard) I have read up on some of the retrofits and they seem to have a lot of performance issues, and that's what I'm trying to get away from...Suggestions please...Jack....BTW I own a auto repair shop so the nuts and bolts part of the swap isn't a problem

[Boat Doc']

Nobody at this time makes a reliable turn key kit. In your case the block probably doesn't have a boss for the crank sensor. I would recommend waiting until something aftermarket comes out, or until it makes sense to replace the engine with a EFI model.

[MattPark]

Boat Doc, I've got a 97, 4 stroke 9.9 Mercury kicker. It was on the boat I just bought, I don't have a whole lot of history on it.

It always fires on the first pull, and runs great. I can troll at low speeds all day long, and water spits out with plenty of pressure, even at idle. Yesterday I pulled my anchor with it just for fun, and I noticed it stopped spitting water at high RPM. When I dropped the speed back down, water started pumping again. The prop does not cavitate at high speeds, and the pickup is well below the bottom of the boat hull.

If it were a water pump issue, I would think the pressure would be low at low speeds, and pick up as RPM does. It's the exact opposite. I'm going to throw a water pump in it, but I'm not optomistic on that being the cure. Any ideas?

[Boat Doc']

Could it be sucking air into the water intake?

[MattPark]

That's the thing, I suppose it could be, but the propeller doesn't cavitate at all, and the pickup is well below the hull of the boat and a fair distance back (not that it goes that fast anyways). It's definitely not sucking air all the time, or even most of the time, water just flat stops coming out like the pickup is out of water. I would think a little bit of water getting to the pump would at least sputter out of the hole.

It sure sounds like the pickup is getting air, I just don't see how it could be. I don't even have to be going that fast for water flow to slow down or stop, half throttle or a bit more is plenty to make me worry about how much cooling water the engine is getting.

[Boat Doc']

I would replace the water pump first.

[whtelk]

Hello Doc
We are having a problem with a 1969 7.5 hp Merc. For some reason it is eating the fins off of the impeller in the water pump all most immeadeatly. We replaced the pump with a new one and it did it again. Worked fine at home before we went fishing and water was pumping. We took the side cover off of the motor and blew it out and we can get air through the holes. Hope you can understand what I am talking about. Thank you.

[whtelk]

We may have found the problem that I asked in the first question. My Bro in law had made a new shaft that goes in the water pump. Thinking it might be a little too big and is rubbing on the houseing of the water pump and is causeing friction. This would explain why it got hot enough to destroy the fins on the impeller. Going to machine the shaft diameter or drill out the pump housing a little and try it again.

[sharkcatcher2]

Hey Doc,
Do you by any chance know of any good boat mechanics in the astoria area? I have a 1989 bluewater, 4cyl. 180hp motor with a problem I have thrown over $600 at in longview. They can not fix the problem. It starts to bog down after 7-8 miles each time and eventually dies. It runs great up to that point. I am hoping to find someone a little closer to clatskanie to save on the cost of fuel just getting the boat to a good mechanic. Any ideas?

[Boat Doc']

I don't, you might put this on the board, I'm sure someone out there knows somebody. As far as fixing it you might try running it with the motor box open, they offer a water cooled fuel line that prevents vapor lock. If it works ok then see if you can get one. Also try running it with a fuel pressure gauge.

[Boat Doc']

I would recommend taking it to someone on the water. I would try Ryans Marine Service in Portland. 503-282-8807. He is on the water and does good work.

[Klamanite]

I have a 1999 Alumaweld intruder that has some slop in the steering gear assembly under the dash. Can the individual gears (2) be replaced or do I need to buy the whole assembly?

[Boat Doc']

You need to buy the complete assembly

[Klamanite]

Thanks.

[rum runner]

Boat Doc,

I have an 1990 American Turbine Pump on an 18 ft aluminum (heavy boat- over 3,000 lbs), Ford 302 approx 216 H.P. It is very sluggish getting out of the hole. Engine seems fine, RPM in normal range, no major structural problems on hull...... I think I am having issues with the impeller. The person I purchased the boat from said he never did any work/shimming of the impeller. He was more into motor performance and maintenance.

This past weekend we had more weight than normal in the boat and could not get up on plane (Equivalent of 4 adults and a dog or 2) I assume this is pushing the envelope of weight limits but have to wonder about impeller issues. How often should one be changed? how much work for a somewhat competent non-marine person to do themselves? Type of impeller (Stainless vs standard)? Also, I have looked online and read about the Inducer systems that store water to help out of the hole.... ever use them?

I know I have asked a bunch of questions in this post so thanks in advance.

[Boat Doc']

I would guess there is excessive clearance between the impeller and wear ring. You should take it apart and check it out. It is normally an aluminum impeller. They need to be changed when you notice a loss of performance, primarily caused from running in sand, silt or rocks. If it isn't corroded together you could do it easily yourself. I would stick with the aluminum set up due to cost. I am not familiar with the inducer system.

[rum runner]

I would guess there is excessive clearance between the impeller and wear ring. You should take it apart and check it out. It is normally an aluminum impeller. They need to be changed when you notice a loss of performance, primarily caused from running in sand, silt or rocks. If it isn't corroded together you could do it easily yourself. I would stick with the aluminum set up due to cost. I am not familiar with the inducer system.


Thanks, I will take it apart this weekend and see what it looks like.

[baitslinger]

Hello Doc,

Well I hit a deadhead last nite while going about 15 mph, the motor is a 1985 evinrude 15 hp longshaft. Now I can only get it to get up to a very sow troll, as I increase the rpm after that it the drive train just slips. Top end of motor seems just fine but something must have failed in lower unit? I don't think this motor has a shear pin? Any advice appreciated? I woud like to try to fix it mysef, or any idea on repair costs?

Thanks, you are always great help!

[Boat Doc']

The rubber hub in the prop is probably slipping. Either get another prop or have a new hub put in the existing prop.

[baitslinger]

Thanks Doc,

I just took the prop off and it seems to confirm your diagnosis! Tons of worn melted rubber. I am heading to your place tomorrow (Oregon City where I purchased this motor BTW) if parts are available and with any luck will be back in business on the kids shad trips!

Thank You Again Oh Wise One!

[dock rat]

Boat Doc, I have a 1974 6hp Johnson and it has developed a problem. It will not go into gear when the motor is running. The shift lever moves freely but doesn't engage. When not running it seems to go into gear normally. Therefore, to troll I have to start the motor while in gear. Any thoughts? Thanks!

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc, I have a 1974 6hp Johnson and it has developed a problem. It will not go into gear when the motor is running. The shift lever moves freely but doesn't engage. When not running it seems to go into gear normally. Therefore, to troll I have to start the motor while in gear. Any thoughts? Thanks!

If the lever moves but doesn't engage something is loose, broke, worn etc. To have it work when started in gear is really weird. Could the prop be slipping?

[dock rat]

Thanks Doc, I will probably tear into it a little more to see why it is not engaging. The prop does not appear to be slipping.

[team doyle]

hey boat doc, here's a trolling motor question for you.
i've got a new tracker 175. it has a motorguide pro46 trolling motor
on the front, an onboard charger and a megatron trolling batttery.
it's a 12volt system.

the problem is that i burn up the juice in just a few hours.
is there a way to get more out of this motor.
new battery? upgrades????

thanks so much,
joe

[Boat Doc']

hey boat doc, here's a trolling motor question for you.
i've got a new tracker 175. it has a motorguide pro46 trolling motor
on the front, an onboard charger and a megatron trolling batttery.
it's a 12volt system.

the problem is that i burn up the juice in just a few hours.
is there a way to get more out of this motor.
new battery? upgrades????

thanks so much,
joe

I would guess your running it at higher speeds, the solution is more batterys or bigger battery.

[team doyle]

hey boat doc, thanks for your quick reply.
more batteries or bigger battery makes sense.
yeah, i do have it running at high speeds as i try to hold in river current.

would that still be a 12v system, or would i have to move to 24 volt?
any recommendations for the most hearty battery on the market?
what would you do if it was your rig?
joe

[Boat Doc']

hey boat doc, thanks for your quick reply.
more batteries or bigger battery makes sense.
yeah, i do have it running at high speeds as i try to hold in river current.

would that still be a 12v system, or would i have to move to 24 volt?
any recommendations for the most hearty battery on the market?
what would you do if it was your rig?
joe

It could still be 12. I would buy a good name brand, deep cycle lead acid battery. If using more than one, make sure they are the same. You could go to 24 volt which would give you more thrust at lower speeds. I would first install 2 group 27 batterys and try what you have. Upgrade if necessary fill your needs.

[doryfisherman]

maybe you can help, i bought a 1992 trophy 20fter full cabin with alaska bulk head with 4 guys on boat it only does about 8 miles an hour at 4500 rpms the prop is a 15/16 4 blade what prop do you recamend for this boat ,it has 3.0 alpha one out drive . thanks doryfisherman@aol.com

[HntnFsh]

Boat Doc.

I have a 1998 175 xr2 sj #OE 341495

I started it for the first time in several months today.Noticed a lot of oil coming from around the filler cap on the engine mounted resevoir.So I shut it down.

Would you happen to have a cap assy?and if so How much$ ?

I dont know if it broke because it was on tight and is old.Or is it possible there was too much pressure in the Resevoir?The oil comming out seemed diluted.Possibly with gas.Is that possible? If so what should I be looking for.

I'll look at the oil closer tomorrow to make sure if it was diluted or not.

Any help would really be appreciated.

Thank You,
Hntnfsh

[Boat Doc']

maybe you can help, i bought a 1992 trophy 20fter full cabin with alaska bulk head with 4 guys on boat it only does about 8 miles an hour at 4500 rpms the prop is a 15/16 4 blade what prop do you recamend for this boat ,it has 3.0 alpha one out drive . thanks doryfisherman@aol.com

I would try a 3 blade 15 pitch or a 4 blade 17 or 18. Also make sure the weight is distributed properly. If you have trim tabs you can use them to bring the bow down to assist in planing. You are marginal on power on a boat that size.

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc.

I have a 1998 175 xr2 sj #OE 341495

I started it for the first time in several months today.Noticed a lot of oil coming from around the filler cap on the engine mounted resevoir.So I shut it down.

Would you happen to have a cap assy?and if so How much$ ?

I dont know if it broke because it was on tight and is old.Or is it possible there was too much pressure in the Resevoir?The oil comming out seemed diluted.Possibly with gas.Is that possible? If so what should I be looking for.

I'll look at the oil closer tomorrow to make sure if it was diluted or not.

Any help would really be appreciated.

Thank You,
Hntnfsh

Don't have one in stock at this time, they run about 54.00. You might try our other store. Part #36-43300A9. If it is diluted with fuel replace the tee fitting where the fuel line attaches to the oil system.

[fishcat]

Boat Doc,

what are the diffrences between mercury 90 hp elpto's and optimax besides the optimax being more expensive?
thanks

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc,

what are the diffrences between mercury 90 hp elpto's and optimax besides the optimax being more expensive?
thanks

The cheaper one is carburaeted, the Opti is direct injected and meets or exceeds current emissions standards. Direct injected motors are about 30% more efficient in both fuel and oil consumption. Trade off is that they are also heavier.

[fishcat]

The cheaper one is carburaeted, the Opti is direct injected and meets or exceeds current emissions standards. Direct injected motors are about 30% more efficient in both fuel and oil consumption. Trade off is that they are also heavier.

thanks for the info
another question- i am buying a 2006 90 optimax , is the original warranty transferrable and he he has an add'l 2 year. does mercury offer 2 years extended or would it likely be from dealer where he purchased the boat

[Boat Doc']

thanks for the info
another question- i am buying a 2006 90 optimax , is the original warranty transferrable and he he has an add'l 2 year. does mercury offer 2 years extended or would it likely be from dealer where he purchased the boat

Merc warranties are transferable for a fee. You should find out whose warranty it is to confirm.

[CB-1]

Doc help
What battery size do I need for my 2002 Honda 130 hp. I bought a battery with 500 cold crank amps. Is this enough?
Thanks
Chris

[Boat Doc']

Doc help
What battery size do I need for my 2002 Honda 130 hp. I bought a battery with 500 cold crank amps. Is this enough?
Thanks
Chris

500 is close to the minimum, doesn't leave you much if you are running other accessories. But but it will work.

[slimsadie]

Doc,

I have a 2000 merc 175 SJ and it is running aroung 5000 RPM's at full throttle but only running around 30mph and has a bit of motor surging, maybe 100 RPM's. I have checked the impeller and it looks ok. Any other ideas. She also no longer has a hole shot.


Slim

[Boat Doc']

I would check compression and spark and verify reverse cup is coming up all the way. If ok change plugs and fuel filters. If problem is still there check impeller clearance.

[nioocharles]

Boat Doc

I have a 35 hp Evinrude Jet(mid 1990's), two cyl. it has no spark. Any ideas. Would this be a professional only job or handy man?

Who would have Evinrude parts and who would work on Evinrudes?

Thanks for you help.

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc

I have a 35 hp Evinrude Jet(mid 1990's), two cyl. it has no spark. Any ideas. Would this be a professional only job or handy man?

Who would have Evinrude parts and who would work on Evinrudes?

Thanks for you help.

I would guess lanyard switch or power pack. Harvey Marine and Oregon City Marine are the local guys for parts and service.

[HammondSeaRanger]

boat doc ... could i get a second opinion on this .. will moisture in the tank cause this problem??

http://www.ifish.net/board/showthread.php?t=156210

[k9jeff]

Bp,
I was having power issues with my outboard and found (after several "fixes") that is was the stator. I was having fouled plug issues and other problems. I had the carbs cleaned without results so I had them rebuilt without results. Installed a new stator after finding it was not working it is working like it is supposed to. Everything on mine pointed to fuel delivery problems.

Good luck.

Jeff

[Boat Doc']

boat doc ... could i get a second opinion on this .. will moisture in the tank cause this problem??

http://www.ifish.net/board/showthread.php?t=156210

I would pull the plug wires one at a time to confirm that each cylinder is contributing. You don't mention what the rpm's are. It may be overpropped. If a cylinder isn't contributing check compression if its ok and if it has spark and fuel it may have a bad reed valve. A bad reed will spit back thru the carb at idle when in the water. Water in the fuel will show up in the fuel filter you just installed. If it is in the carbs the only way to remove all of it is to disassemble and clean them.

[HammondSeaRanger]

boat doc,

Rpm's are right where they should be. I ruled out the prop 15" pitch. I had the carbs rebuilt and it solved the problem for one tank of gas. the next tank of gas the problem started again. (starts one turn, rpm's where they should be, full throttle out of the hole i am holding at 10 mph for about 1/4 mile, then slowly she climbs up to top speed @ 31mph. No hesitation just a slow acceleration, no loss of torgue as it pulls anchor with ball no problems). compression check was perfect, all cylinders firing. the only problem we could see was water in the plugs.

vent hose and intake hose on main tank are cracked and old, allowing water and / or air to be intorduced into tank. would this cause the mentioned symptoms? (my mechanic says yes i am looking for a second opinion)

also excuse my ignorance, but is the reed part of the carburator system?

thanks alot for your opinion,

Matt

[Boat Doc']

boat doc,

Rpm's are right where they should be. I ruled out the prop 15" pitch. I had the carbs rebuilt and it solved the problem for one tank of gas. the next tank of gas the problem started again. (starts one turn, rpm's where they should be, full throttle out of the hole i am holding at 10 mph for about 1/4 mile, then slowly she climbs up to top speed @ 31mph. No hesitation just a slow acceleration, no loss of torgue as it pulls anchor with ball no problems). compression check was perfect, all cylinders firing. the only problem we could see was water in the plugs.

vent hose and intake hose on main tank are cracked and old, allowing water and / or air to be intorduced into tank. would this cause the mentioned symptoms? (my mechanic says yes i am looking for a second opinion)

also excuse my ignorance, but is the reed part of the carburator system?

thanks alot for your opinion,

Matt

Yes, if you are getting water in the tank it is also in the carbs, everything would need to be thoroughly cleaned and flushed. The reed holds the fuel charge in the crankcase and is located behind the carb.

[Got Fish?]

Hey boat doc,

I have a 04 200hp 2-stroke merc jet. Once in a while when I come to a stop and turn off the motor I notice a small drop of what appears to be feul hitting the water, I see the sheen. It only does this maybe once out of every 4 to 5 times I run and once in a while when I put it in the water. I thought I heard once that 2 strokes sometimes spit a little fuel. Could this be what is happening? I examined under the motor thoughly and can not find any signs of leaking exept for the usual grim and grease. Is there anything internally that I should look out for or check? Thanks again

[Boat Doc']

Inspect all the hoses for leaks, especially the small recirculation hoses. If you tilt it up the gas will run out of the carbs which is normal. Some fuel out of the exhaust is also normal.

[Got Fish?]

Inspect all the hoses for leaks, especially the small recirculation hoses. If you tilt it up the gas will run out of the carbs which is normal. Some fuel out of the exhaust is also normal.

Ok I remembered that when i tilt it up it seems to do that a bit more. Like I said its not much fuel just a little to notice every once in a while. I inspected the hoses on the inside pretty thoroughly but could the leak only be occuring when the motor is running? If this is so I can't find it as it is now thanks

[nioocharles]

I would guess lanyard switch or power pack. Harvey Marine and Oregon City Marine are the local guys for parts and service.



Thanks again for your help, it was the lanyard switch, I disconnected it and the motor started up.

Sure glad you are online. Now I need to find a new switch, Thank you!!:meme:

[Kuja]

Hi
I have a 4.3lx Gen Mercruiser that overheats at 3200 rpms. If you go below 3200 rpms,the temperature goes down. If you to 4100 rpms the tsmperature goes up faster It has a new water pump. Would like some ideas of what could be causing the overheating.
Thank You,Kuja

[Boat Doc']

Working from the drive forward the things to check are, water inlet holes for obstructuions, water pump assembled correctly especially the rubber grommet that is under the guide tube, water supply hose that goes thru the transom may be kinked or split, if it has check balls on either side of the thermostat housing they can stick- pull the hoses off the housing to see them if they are there, stuck thermostat, exhaust risers plugged with debris where the water exits in the back, head gasket or cracked manifold. Check the basic stuff first, it is abnormal for the last two items to be the problem.

[Kuja]

Hi
Thank you i will look for what you said
Thank You,Kuja

[puffins crew]

Hello boat doc,

I have a 1992 14ft smokercraft with an 18 hp tohatsu 2 stroke that was originally purchased from your fine establishment.

I would like to run an electric trolling motor and have the battery get charged when I am using 18hp.

I bought the charging rectifier kit from the local tohatsu dealer and it did not come with mounting instructions.

Can I get these instructions online or from your store? I have looked around quite a bit and have had no luck.

Peace, Tom

[Boat Doc']

We don't service or have any manuals on Tohotsu. Sorry.

[puffins crew]

We don't service or have any manuals on Tohotsu. Sorry.

OK, Thank you , sir!

Peace, Tom

[Maddie'sDaddy]

Hello Boat Doc'

Have a Force 70 hp motor(made by Merc) and recently noticed that i need to use the fast idle lever on the control box to get my motor to start, And i am talking all the way up no matter how warm the motor is, Just hoping for a place to start as far as trouble shooting.




Thanks MD

[Boat Doc']

If it runs ok after it is started I would guess the idle speed is set to low.

[adiposessed]

Howdy, I just bought a used 1995 8ml 2stroke for my drift boat. What gas/oil mixture should I use? I also am having a hard time finding the serial number. Where is it hidden? Thanks

[Boat Doc']

Mix is 50:1. Serial number is located on right side of motor pivot or on soft plug on right side of block.

[Dinikin]

Hi Boat Doc.
I got 86 75HP Mercury, 4cyl.
Seems that a water running out of wee hole is not coming out with proper pressure.
1 How to check if the flow/pressure correct at certain RPMs

2 Tachometer is stuck at 5.5 K and just glitches a bit upon start up.(connected to the above motor)
How to check integrity of the tack, and what proper voltages should be at idle.
Tach is looks old, probably year 86 or so.
Thanks.

[Boat Doc']

The wee hole may be restricted, try blowing it out or disconnect the hose and blow out the fitting. You should replace the water pump at about 300 hours or annually. If you are not getting a alarm then the motor isn't hot and the wee hole is probably plugged. As far as the tach if it doesn't return to zero with the key on replace it. It works off the charging system, if it's charging then the tach should work. Hope this helps with your problem, I don't have the specifics you asked for.

[skunked_again]

First let me say that this is my first boat. I have a 85 horse Johnson that was just tuned up and had a clean bill of health. The motor is pretty old (1976). It ran darn good the first time last week that I took it out and pulled 2 teen age boys around in a tube. I took it out again today and the motor was surging like it was getting choked. It would run good with about half throttle. Could this be a clogged fuel filter? And if so....where would it be so I can try to replace it myself. Also, should I run premium gas instead of just regular unleaded?

Thanks in advance,
Skunked

[Green Machine]

Boat Doc:

I have a 2001 Merc 9.9 Big Foot kicker. It runs great at 1/2 throttle or more. The issue is at low throttle or idle. It will run fine for a minute, then almost sound like it is running out of gas, and then run fine again. It will do this all day while trolling. It never dies, but sounds like it will, then picks up and runs great for about a minute. I've taken the carb apart and cleaned everything out. I even tried a separate fuel tank. Any ideas??

Thanks,
Green Machine

[Small Fry]

Doc I need a water pump in my 1990 200 merc. How much $ i'm I looking at/

[Mke]

Hi Doc,
I was flying along on the Willamette the other day and suddenly lost about 50% of my power on my honda 115 with a pump. I limped off to the side to look up the intake. About half of one of the blades was broken off. I managed to limp it home. Can I replace this impeller blade myself?
Coud it be under warrenty?
Thanks,
Mike

[Boat Doc']

The engine filter is located at the fuel pump where the fuel line attaches. There may also be another one inside the boat. If you have an owners manual go by the octane rating they specify. If not I personally would use premium.

[dixiefisher]

Boat Doc,
I have been chasing a problem with my 87' 90 hp merc....I wasn't able to get it to rev past 3000 rpm.....I went through the fuel...and ignition...I found that the #2 cylinder wasn't firing....so, while I was flipping out the "bad" ignition coil with one of the "good" ones , to rule out the switch box, the magnet (that surrounds the coil )...fell apart in my hands when I pulled it out of the rubber boot....the previous owner had duct taped the pieces together like a puzzle.....so, I tried re-taping it and putting it back in....started the motor and got "fire"....I am ordering a new one obviously....but in the process I noticed the other two coils had cracks in the magnets as well, but they had "fire"....my question is what do these magnets have anything to do with the coils???....I assumed that the windings inside the coild did all of the "work"......???

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc:

I have a 2001 Merc 9.9 Big Foot kicker. It runs great at 1/2 throttle or more. The issue is at low throttle or idle. It will run fine for a minute, then almost sound like it is running out of gas, and then run fine again. It will do this all day while trolling. It never dies, but sounds like it will, then picks up and runs great for about a minute. I've taken the carb apart and cleaned everything out. I even tried a separate fuel tank. Any ideas??

Thanks,
Green Machine

Try setting the idle mixture richer. You access it by drilling out the brass plug on the side.

[Boat Doc']

Doc I need a water pump in my 1990 200 merc. How much $ i'm I looking at/

Water pump kit runs about 60.00.

[Boat Doc']

Hi Doc,
I was flying along on the Willamette the other day and suddenly lost about 50% of my power on my honda 115 with a pump. I limped off to the side to look up the intake. About half of one of the blades was broken off. I managed to limp it home. Can I replace this impeller blade myself?
Coud it be under warrenty?
Thanks,
Mike

You can change it easily yourself, if it is dinged or has cavitation burns on it I don't think it would be warranty. If it's clean it may be. Either contact your dealer or the manufacturer.

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc,
I have been chasing a problem with my 87' 90 hp merc....I wasn't able to get it to rev past 3000 rpm.....I went through the fuel...and ignition...I found that the #2 cylinder wasn't firing....so, while I was flipping out the "bad" ignition coil with one of the "good" ones , to rule out the switch box, the magnet (that surrounds the coil )...fell apart in my hands when I pulled it out of the rubber boot....the previous owner had duct taped the pieces together like a puzzle.....so, I tried re-taping it and putting it back in....started the motor and got "fire"....I am ordering a new one obviously....but in the process I noticed the other two coils had cracks in the magnets as well, but they had "fire"....my question is what do these magnets have anything to do with the coils???....I assumed that the windings inside the coild did all of the "work"......???

It's not unusual for them to crack, they aid in allowing the feild to collapse.

[dixiefisher]

Originally Posted by dixiefisher http://www.ifish.net/board/images/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://www.ifish.net/board/showthread.php?p=1586075#post1586075)
Boat Doc,
I have been chasing a problem with my 87' 90 hp merc....I wasn't able to get it to rev past 3000 rpm.....I went through the fuel...and ignition...I found that the #2 cylinder wasn't firing....so, while I was flipping out the "bad" ignition coil with one of the "good" ones , to rule out the switch box, the magnet (that surrounds the coil )...fell apart in my hands when I pulled it out of the rubber boot....the previous owner had duct taped the pieces together like a puzzle.....so, I tried re-taping it and putting it back in....started the motor and got "fire"....I am ordering a new one obviously....but in the process I noticed the other two coils had cracks in the magnets as well, but they had "fire"....my question is what do these magnets have anything to do with the coils???....I assumed that the windings inside the coild did all of the "work"......???
It's not unusual for them to crack, they aid in allowing the feild to collapse.


Thank you!!....I am going to replace all three assuming that the "crack" weakens the spark.....