Stevens Marine Boat Doc'

[Tacklebuster]

Thanks Boat Doc,
It's been running like that since delivery of my boat, any possible damage from gas getting into the oil like that and running cool? It's not tied into the pee hole cause the line actually got plugged once and the tell tail worked fine. The line is way smaller than 3/8's though. It's a rubber line with a diameter smaller than a pencil, more like the diameter of an air line from a tropical fish tank. Any suggestions for something that small or maybe I should jusk kink the line and zip tie her shut :help:

[Boat Doc']

Best thing to do is kink the line and see if problem goes away, if it does I would change it over to the larger hose so you can control the flow. As far as damage I don't think there would be any.

[portlandstatekid]

boat doc-i have a couple year old 9.8 tohatsu for my 14 ft jon and have been noticing a shaky idle. not sure if those vibrations are normal but it seems to worsen over time.

does this mean that it's time to get it serviced? my dad suggested it may need new spark plugs but not too sure.

anyone know about how much the going rate is for basic servicing? thanks for any replies.

[Boat Doc']

I would try a set of plugs and adjusting the idle mixture.If you still don't like the way it runs you need to determine if it runs bad enough to throw about 150.00 at it.

[Witchway]

Mr boat doc

I have a 2oo1 90 hp honda 4 stroke and the wtr pump went to hades. my understanding is that this is a common problem and will have to be replaced every 3to four yrs. My ? is there a way to keep this from happening again.

TX
WITCHWAY

[sakana49]

Hey Boat Doc what is a 'telltale'?

[tony9741]

I have owned two alumawelds (a stryker and intruder) they both leak as you have suggested. No solution that I've tried.

[HntnFsh]

Sakana,

I'm pretty sure hes refering to the water discharge for the cooling.Right under the power head.It should shoot out a steady stream of cool water.

[Boat Doc']

Water pump impellers should be inspected or replaced annually, the only thing that shortens there life is dry running.

[Boat Doc']

The constant stream of water that exits the motor to let you know the water pump is functioning.

[StickFish]

Boat Doc

I have a Lund Pro Sport and with the stuff I was reading on the Salty Dogs forum about ethanol and boats cautioned me to ask my manufacturer about the fuel lines in my boat. Anyhow the final answer from Lund was that there are no Ethanol rated fuel lines in the Marine industry. Is that true?

They went on to say as Ethonol based fuels become more prevelant that announcements will be made.

What is your take on this potential time bomb

[Boat Doc']

New engines and components are designed to withstand up to 10% ethanol. Any higher mixes may cause issues with water mixture and deteriation of lines and hardware.

[Alsetz]

Like many other Sportjet owners, my 2002 Stryker with a 175hp sportjet is really hard starting when it is cold. Once I get it started it runs fine for the rest of the day. Per your suggestion, I rewired the electric fuel primer to a momentary toggle. It didn't seem to make a difference. I was thinking it might be the enricher solenoid. To make sure I was getting fuel to the enricher, I disconnected the feed from the top carburetor to the solenoid. The fuel primer is delivering fuel to the enricher. I tested the voltage to the enricher and I'm getting a max DC voltage of 63v. It achieves max voltage in about 2 seconds before returning to 12v. When performing the test, I noticed the solenoid only appears to be activated when cycling the key from off to on. Questions: How does the enricher solenoid work internally? After sitting for several weeks, I suspect the enricher runs out of fuel and it is dependent on the small gravity head from the top carb to push fuel into the enricher. Does air need to be pulled through the solenoid to induce fuel out of the solenoid? Also, is it correct that the enricher only activates for 2 seconds when switching the key from off to on? As my boat is currently configured, I've been following the manual and not turning off the key but returning from start to on and waiting for 30 seconds and as such, I haven't been activating the enricher. Or do you think I have problems with the TKS system? When I read the manual, I thought the cold start system would be more sophisticated than this. Or do you think the enricher has problems? Thanks for any insight. If nothing else, I could simply turn the key off and on several times to activate the enricher. Sorry for the long post and all the questions.

[Boat Doc']

Have you got a fax machine? Give me the number and I can fax you the pages from the service manual pertaining to TKS.

[Alsetz]

Boat Doc'

My fax is 541.336.2874. I do have a Mercury Sportjet manual. Your service manual may have more detailed information than I have.

Thanks for your help.

Larry

[SlimPickens]

Boat Doc,
7.5 hp merc, 70's model. I seem to only be running about 25-50% of wide open throttle on the carb. There are adjustments on the motor that could make the carb throttle open wider. The plastic slide (in between the throttle linkage tiller and the carb) seems to only be used in the lower 25% of the slide.

It appears moving the throttle linkage over a tooth or so would allow the carb to open more, and thus more HP on my drift boat. It seems a waste to not use most of the HP on a 7.5!!!
thanks
SLIM

[Boat Doc']

There is a plate that slides over when in neutral so you don't over rev, look at that linkage to make sure something isn't stuck. Also make sure that the plastic arm that sticks up from the carb and contacks the mag plate isn't adjusted to far away. Also make sure the full throttle stop screw hasn't become loose and worked itself in.

[SlimPickens]

Wow, thanks for the quick reply. Didn't know about the neutral plate.... I'll check it out.

thanks again!

[Alsetz]

Boat Doc'
Thanks for the information on the fuel enricher. Of interest is the handwritten note "Digital Voltmeter-bounces between 10 and 15 volts and then steadies after 10-15 seconds" Question: Was the voltmeter connected to yellow/black and engine ground? Or some other configuration?

Again thanks.
Larry

[Boat Doc']

yellow/black and ground

[jramstead]

Hey Doc,
I just bought a 2005 90 hp Johnson Salt Water Edition Jet outboard. The manual they gave me was an Evinrude 90/115 generic manual, does this so right? Don't know anything about these motors as I've always had Yamahas but this was a good deal. Also I'm confused as to wether its a ficht, or an etech or neither. the motor numbers are J90PLOSA. Thanks in advance.
John Ramstead
Great Falls, Montana

[Boat Doc']

The one you have is the 60 degree carburated engine that they have been using since the mid 90s. Ther manual you have should be correct. It is not direct injected.

[jramstead]

Thanks Doc. Seems to be a powerful engine so far hope it stays that way.
John :cool:

[SteelheadNympher]

BC, are the lower units on mercruiser 4.3L and 5.7L engines the same? I have an opportunity to acquire a lower unit from a V8 which is the same year as my V6 for a great price and happen to need some lower unit repair work. The V8 unit is the same year as my V6. Thanks for any help. SN

[skaha]

how may hours can I expect to get out of a honda 45?
--what is conscidered normal hrs before major overhall or get nervous about replacement

[SHLEPROCK]

Boat Doc
70 hp merc is slugish and dies some times. While replacing plugs I found the top plug has a yellow tan color and the others were white.
After replacing plugs and running for about 20 hours I pulled the plugs again and the top plug had the same yellow tan color.
I took a compresion reading and all three cylinders were equal.
Do you think this is a carburetor problem?

[Fishhooker]

I am thinking of another boat project.
2004 19 ft Alumaweld Stryker.

I am going to get the between console storage box that fit just below the walk through windshield.
Remove the rear group 24 battery and add 2 sealed batteries into this box.
Add a perko switch and run battery cables to the rear.

I have a 2005 75 Merc and a 2005 9.9 Merc kicker.
GPS, F/F, VHF, Elec downriggers and elec windshield wiper.

My questions are can I stay with group 24 size batteries or move to the next group size larger?
What size of battery cable should I use. 4 ga, 6ga.?

Any other input from anyone that has done this is appreciated.

[Boat Doc']

Sorry this is late, went fishin in Alaska. The lower half is the same. If you are changing the upper there is a gear ratio difference.

[Boat Doc']

I would guess with proper maintenance you could easily get 3000 hrs out of any 4 stroke.

[Boat Doc']

Probably carbs, sounds like they need a thorough cleaning.

[Boat Doc']

I would recommend 4 gauge cable. The group 24 batteries should be fine and will also leave you some extra storage.

[farm5]

I have an early 90's 200hp Merc. The cooling water outlet tube spits and sputters water when the boat is idling and produces a nice steady stream when running abouve idle. The empeller and thermostates only have 4-5 trips on them. Could the problem be the water intake tube seal? How is this verified as compared to a blockage in the cooling system?

[Boat Doc']

If the impeller and gaskets are ok check the seal in the impeller housing and a visual inspection of the water tube.It's not uncommon for those models to not pee a steady stream at idle. If the alarm doesn't sound you should be ok. You could verify the temperature with a infrared thermometer to ease your concerns.

[SeaSparrow]

Boat Doc-
How common is it for an RC unit to go out on an engine with less than 100hrs? How difficult is it to replace? What causes it to go out?
Thanks!

[Boat Doc']

RC unit? What engine and what is an RC unit? If you are referring to the remote control I would say extremely stiff cables.

[SeaSparrow]

RC unit? What engine and what is an RC unit? If you are referring to the remote control I would say extremely stiff cables.


Yes the remote control on a Vortec 190hp V6 with a merc alpha one outdrive. Had a bunch of work done on the boat (gimbal bearing, new carb, alternator) and took it for a test drive and it wouldnt engage the drive. Had plenty of gas going to forward and reverse but no drive. Mechanic thought it might be a broken shifter cable or that it had come out of its slot at the shift lever end. Now he calls us and says the RC must be shot and needs replacing ($700 - ouch!). How would I know if that is really the problem or that this wasn't a result of the work they did previously? How often would you expect this RC to go out? Thanks Boat Doc'! :cheers:

[Boat Doc']

The shift cable that goes to the drive commonly gets stiff and needs replacing. If it froze solid and someone applied a lot of effort to the shift lever it could break. Parts are available for most of those boxes, 700 sounds like a lot of money. If the cables are not being replaced but it needs a control I would guess it was something they did.

[timinthegorge]

Hey Boat Doc.... Where did you go in AK, and did you catch fish??? :cheers:

[Boat Doc']

Went to Yakutat, ocean fished kings and halibut and caught some of each.

[timinthegorge]

Good to hear.... And sorry, my 90 and 9.9 mercs are running like sewing machines. Strong and relatively silent :cheers:

[ratcitycat]

Hi Boat Doc
I have a 2000 15ft smokercraft lodge with a 99 4st 30hp merc manual start.my questions are
1) is there a way to install a fuel cell or storage box under the deck between the 2 side seats up to the bow area.not sure how much depth and whats under there in that area.Has Stevens Marine done this before.
2)Being a manual start my battery only runs a fishfinder and 2 electric downriggers.Could I go to a smaller battery such as a group u-1(32 ah).would that last a day of fishing?
I am trying to find ways to reduce the weight at the back of the boat(600#s of me ,motor ,fuel & battery) for when I fish solo I have to add unneeded ballast at the bow to help offset for ride. Any insights would be helpful.
Thank You , Mike.

P.S. Thanks to you people at Stevens Marine for selling me this boat last year, I am really enjoying it.

[StickFish]

Try moving the fuel and battery to the front of the boat. Some motors do not like pulling fuel from a long way away, but something to try.

[ratcitycat]

Thank You Stickfish for your reply.The pulling fuel from a distance is a concern of mine.I wonder how far the limit is, but I guess I can experiment by moving the tank around.
Mike

[Gr8waves]

Ratcitycat - I had a 40 hp 4s on a 16' lodge that I moved the tank forward. Didn't have any trouble with drawing fuel - if you are concerned this will be a problem, buy 12' of fuel line and make a temporary run.

If I had kept the boat, the battery would have been moved forward too.

[Boat Doc']

There is no room under the floor. You could build something thatwould butt up to the front deck. We havn't ever done it but it looks straight forward. The minimum battery requirement is 350 CCA. Sounds like it's time for a little bigger boat!

[SlimPickens]

Boat doc,
1989 6 hp Yamaha. In neutral I can hear a slight grinding of gears. In forward or reverse, no grinding. Its not fully disengaging. What adjustment needs to be made and where? I haven't pulled it apart yet.

thanks! Slim

[Boat Doc']

I don't know exactly where but look for the linkage that moves with the shift lever. It should be adjustable to ehere you can move it more towards a gear so it doesn't click when in the neutral detent.

[iwanttofish]

I am trying to figure out what prop to put on my 115 merc.

I have a standard 3 blade prop and am wondering if I put on a 4 blade or stainless or any other sugestions to get better fuel milage out of the motor.

I can call the store to find out what stainless prop is ok to install if that is easyer.

I am getting about 2.75- 3 mpg. I have an 18 gallon tank on my Hewescraft sea runner.

I am thinking about more ocean fishing and my just have to bring a 5 gal jug with me when I go if that is the case.

Mike

PS
Thanks for all the good info you provide to use.

:bowdown: :bowdown: :applause: :applause:

[ratcitycat]

Thanks everybody for your suggestions.I guess its time to experiment.
Mike

[Boat Doc']

The engine should be propped to acheive its maximum recommended rpm. Normally that would be a 19 pitch. Switching to a stainless prop will allow you cruise at a lower rpm there by giving you better economy. When going to stainless you will drop down 1 inch in pitch to maintain the same top end rpm. The figures you are giving don't seem out of line. I would suggest another tank in the front you could switch to instead of trying to pour from a container in the ocean.

[iwanttofish]

OK thanks I will possibly try that. Would a four blade prop work better than a 3 blade prop.

Mike

[Capt Bob]

I am running a 2001 Merc 225hp Optimax DFI and getting an engine alarm of four long beeps. The alarm started when I ran low on oil in the main tank. At this point, the engine derated power until I refilled the main tank and topped off the tank under the motor cover until the float in the tank came up to the stop. Now the engine runs at full power but it still sounds the alarm of four long beeps about every two to three minutes. Can I reset the ECM and if so, how?

[Boat Doc']

Four blades will give you a better hole shot and may sacrifice a small amount of top end. Three blades will be slightly more economical.

[Boat Doc']

You either have low oil in the engine mounted reservoir or water in the engine mounted fuel filter or a faulty sensor. When the problem is corrected the ecm resets itself when you turn the key off. If the oil reservoir is totally full the dump out the engine fuel filter to get rid of any water. If you still have an alarm you need to check for unplugged wires at the sensors involved or replace sensors.

[iwanttofish]

Thanks for the info.

:bowdown: :bowdown:

[Capt Bob]

0

[mikem]

I recently bought a boat that would stall when I tried to accelerate. It is a 1992 18' baja w/ 3.0L. After flushing the tank, cleaning the pickup, replacing fuel lines, adding an inline water seperator/fuel filter, cleaning the fuel pump stone filter, replacing the carb stone type fuel filter with a pleated one (only one available), and rebuilding the mercarb carb, I am running strong, but after shutdown fuel is leaking from the jets and flooding the engine. Did i do something wrong with the floats, accelerator pump, or is this just what a manual fuel pump with clean lines does to one of these carbs? Thank You in advance.
Mike

[Boat Doc']

Fuel shouldn't be leaking on shutdown. Check float level, gaskets or warped components. One other possibility is the fuel is boiling from excessive heat in the engine compartment.

[mikem]

Thanks, I'll check to make sure float pin is seating.
Mike

[Phil Layer]

Dear Boat Doc,

"A friend" ran "his" boat completely out of gas the other day and had a heck of a time getting it running again (on the trailer at home). He had it running for short periods with the earmuffs on but then he had a senior moment.

He decided to spend some time checking out the fuel lines so he turned the water off on the earmuffs. Later, he fired up the engine and ran it for approximately 1 minute at 3000 rpms before he realized the water was still turned off. :smash:

With the water running, it appears that the impeller is pumping okay - water comes out of the top of the outdrive. I hear no funny noises from the outdrive. Is it safe to say the dry running did no damage to the impeller or should he have it inspected before running again?

"My friend" feels like a real idiot. :redface:

[Boat Doc']

If it ran that long the water pump should be toast. Definitly take it apart and inspect it.

[FishinTechnician]

Boat Doc, I have a Merc, 9.9hp four stroke. Just had the water pump impeller replaced and water runs cool. QUES: I get steam coming out of the above-water-line exhaust. Is this anything to worry about? I have noticed the same condition on a few other motors, but most seem to run clear exhust.

[timinthegorge]

FT, My '03 9.9 Merc 4stroke (bought new in August '02) has a bit of steam coming out of it, and has since it was new. Next month will mark the end of the 4th year I've had it and it's run without a hiccup. Hope that helps, Tim

[Boat Doc']

The hole you are referring to is for exhaust releif. It is normal for steam to come out.

[FishinTechnician]

Very much appreciate the replies. Sets my mind at ease.

[Laserman]

boat doc
Is their any product out their that you can mount a kicker motor on that will eleminate motor vibration from being transfered to the gunnels or side trays? Any help would be appreciated.

[PATRICK 11-14]

:help:I have a 88 bluewater with what I believe is a teleflex control box/4.3lt inboard/omc cobra outdrive. The part that I can't seem to find (been everywhere it seems!!) is a plastic keeper that holds the cable housing for the shift control. Its round and made of plastic with 2 "teeth/notches" on one side and on the other is made aluminum. The plastic teeth are wore out and was needing to know who to contact/might have this part in stock or if I could order it! No one wants to help we with this and I spent the last two days on line trying to find it on line...
Thanks~~ :bowdown:
:help:

[Bob Barthlow]

Boat Doc, bought a new '06 Merc 9.9 four stroke kicker two months ago and have a question...

All my other Merc trolling motors (all 6) had a lock nut holding the prop on, the new 9.9 uses a cotter pin & nut.

Can I use a lock nut on the new motor? I seem to wind up alot of fishing line with my kicker prop around boat launches, or near the bank...this cotter pin is a real pain in the @#*! for quick prop R&R. :shrug:

[Boat Doc']

You could try to isolate it with carpet or rubber pads. If you have the vibration at trolling speed you could try a different prop to maintain the same speed at a different rpm.

[Boat Doc']

Parts for a control that old will be very hard to find. I would look for a used control. Try Oregon Outboard Salvage or Fairview Marine. You might be able to find one like yours that you could use for parts or replace the assembly.

[Daffyblaster]

Boat Doc, I just boat a 1966 Johnson fd-20c 20hp. The guy I boaught it fromhad just inherited it from his dad. It's was recently serviced but the tag flew off on the drive home and I don't know where it was serviced. Sooo.... I need to know the basic what fuel mixture ratio to use. Also, the prop is chewed and I can't get it off. I took out the cotter pin, but can't get the prop off. There is a cap (it looks like) that seems almost to be part of the prop. I can't tell for sure, it was painted. There's a seam.
Help. :shrug:

[Boat Doc']

fuel mix is 50:1. The cotter pin goes thru the nut, remove the nut and it should come off.

[Bob Barthlow]

fuel mix is 50:1. The cotter pin goes thru the nut, remove the nut and it should come off.

....I know that, what I'm asking is...can I do away with the cotter pin and use a Loc Nut like on everyother Merc Kicker I've had scense 1988, all 7 of them? :shrug: ...the cotter pin is a pain!

[Boat Doc']

YES! thread is 10 X 1.25 pitch, if you can't get a nut I can. Let me know.

[foxer]

Boat Doc. I keep my boat at a storage place. I get half of the stall and another boat is stored directly behind me. We both have to back in our boats. Well, for the second time, my "stall mate" backed into my boat. Specfically, his raised outdrive hit my lowered outboard and left a couple gouges on my housing, just above the lower unit (although that got scratched too, just not so bad. My motor is an 05 Suzuki DF140. This section of cowling is either fiberglass or some sort of composite. Anyone know where to go to get this fixed? I am also going to check on just replacing that section.

[BodegaDave]

G'day, Boat Doc!

I have a 1999 Yamaha T9.9EXRX four-stroke kicker that is overdue for a new impeller. Could you go over the procedure to R&R the lower unit and impeller on this motor? I have replaced impellers before on 1979 Johnson 9.9/15hp motors so am hoping I can handle the Yamaha too.

[The_Duck_Master]

Hi Doc,

I posted this on the regular tech forum before I noticed you were here. Thanks for being a great resource...

I took my new (to me) Lowe Big John out over the weekend and am having an issue with the outboard. After two or three hours of trolling along just fine the motor (25hp merc) started popping out of gear at trolling speed.

It got progressively worse until it was impossible to continue trolling. The thing would only pop into gear at much higher than normal rpm. Once engaged it would cruise fine at higher speed. After we took a break from trolling and jigged for an hour with it off, it again worked fine for about an hour, before starting to pop out of gear again.

I got a reply saying it was linkages out of adjustment or worn clutch dogs, any thoughts?

TDM

[Boat Doc']

I would guess linkage or stiff bushings. Also try pushing in on the prop shaft, if it moves more than about a 1/4 inch it may be a shaft or gear problem.

[Boat Doc']

It won't be much different than your old Johnson. Uncouple the shift shaft, remove the gearcase retaning bolts and the water pump sits on top.

[Boat Doc']

It will probably be cheaper to replace the plastic peice than repair. Contact your Suzuki dealer.

[BodegaDave]

Thank you! Just ordered the parts & will get to it next week.

[MintBrite]

Hi Doc
My 165 Mercuiser is hurting in reverse. I have a hard time getting it in reverse gear (some grinding before finally locking in) then when I try to give it some gas the neutral safety switch engauges and kills the motor. I can't seem to find the sweet spot to make both sides happy any more. Thanks for the help!

[FastAction]

boat doc are 150hp Merc Black Max's junk motors?

Is it worth the rebuild or just buy a new 4stroke?

1991 Merc black max 150hp... smokes and clunks in the lower unit!

[Boat Doc']

Something is worn. Remove the drive and make sure the slide moves freely in the bell housing and there isno corrosion on the forward end of the cavity preventing full movement. Also push and pull on the slide, if there is more than 3/16 to 1/4 inch slop replace the shift cable. Next sperate the lower from the upper. Look at the lower shift shaft splines and if they don't fit tight into the upper replace the lower shaft - you will have to remove the upper or lower shaft to do this. Finally with lower unit in gear and pressure against the prop shaft turn the shift shaft back and forth. If it moves freely without engaging anything the lower unit needs to come apart and the shift spool replaced and the gears and clutch inspected.

[Boat Doc']

Junk motors? no way. As for the smoking it burns oil, it will smoke. If it smokes excessively and it is in good mechanical condition it can be made better. If the lower unit isn't full of metal the clunking may be an adjustment. If you want a motor that doesn't smoke, is quiet, runs smooth at all rpm and starts by turning the key and nothing else then you have justification to trade in your oil burner for something more environmentally friendly.

[Draggin' Bait]

Boat Doc: I have a 115 Yamaha 4-stroke with full Yamaha gauges. Everything has always worked perfectly. Last week the fuel management gauge quit reading mpg. The gph reading is still there, and the speedometer is working normally. Seems like a simple math problem to end up with mpg, but no go. Any suggestions? About 175 hours on the package. Thanks, Larry

[MikeN]

Boat Doc,

Can you help me on this?

Over on the River Jet site it has been discussed about a way to install some type of valve that can be plumbed into the hose that feeds the heat exchanger and then hooked to a garden hose and enables a guy to wash out an inboard jet without running the motor.

Has anyone done this? Do you have a picture of it and where did you get the valve?

Thanks Boat Doc!

[Artwo]

Hey Boat Doctor, I would like your opinion...........

I'm looking at purchacing a new 20' inboard jet that comes with a Vortec 350 carborated engine coupled with an American Turbine SD309 pump. I would be interested in your opinion on both.

Thanks,
JK

[Boat Doc']

I would check the connections and see if there is a reset for the gauge.

[Boat Doc']

It would be easiest to remove the water supply hose and put your garden hose on it with an adapter, then reinstall the hose when done. You could install a permanent valve making sure the ID of the valve is at least the same or greater than that of the hose. You would also need to block off the flow back to the pump. When doing this make sure the attitude of the boat is such that the water doesn't flow back into the engine. If the engine does not have fresh water cooling the thermostat would have to be removed so you are flushing the block.

[Boat Doc']

Both good choices, I would look at EFI and upgrading the reverse bucket for more reverse thrust.

[Fish Slapper]

I have a 2002 200 Merc with super pump, the last 2 times I have greased the inpeller bearing after use there has been alot of water in the grease line. Normally 1 squirt with the grease gun and I get grease out of the hose, but now I get water for the first 5-7 squirts and then water mixed with grease for several more, this does not seem normal to me and was wondering if the bearing seal has been compromised. I also noticed the last time that I greased it that on the first pump with the grease gun that water instantlantly dropped down out of the shoe?

[Boat Doc']

Sounds like the lower seals are leaking, you should take it apart and replace the seals.

[Fish Slapper]

boat doc is this something I could do my self (replacing the seals) or do I need to take it to a shop, I know how to remove the pump, what would Stevens charge to replace them if I brought the pump in?

[Boat Doc']

If it comes apart easy about 200.00. You could do it easy yourself. The seal kit comes with some basic instructions.

[Salmonator]

Hey Boat Doc...

I just bought a 1996 25hp Mariner long shaft, manual start. How do I give this motor battery charging capabilities? The electric start I can do without but it would be nice to be juicing the battery a little while on the move. TIA

[Boat Doc']

you need to install a lighting coil and rectifier kit, about 150.00 plus install. Install is easy, you need to be able to pull the flywheel.

[RatherBFishn]

Boat Doc, I got a 02 Yamaha 9.9. It just developed a problem where it will not idle. Runs at fast rpm only. Quites immediatley at idle. I have changed the plugs, fiddled with the idle mixture screw, changed the oil, changed the fuel connector. This occurred fairly suddenly while back trolling into waves. The motor was dunked a few times, kept running but after that it was acting like it was surging once in awhile. When going back to idle it would quit running. Will only restart with some throttle. Got any advice?
Thanks, RBF

[Boat Doc']

I would guess water or debris in the float bowl, remove and thoroughly clean the carb.

[salmonking]

Hi Boat Doc,
I have a 1999 50hp Mariner 4 stroke. Do you know what I really have underneath all the clothes? :shrug: I have been told so many different stories about who the manufacture really is?????
Now: When the motor is first started it runs like crap and is very difficult to keep idling, but once warm runs like a sewing machine. Any ideas on what i might need to have done? Thanks for your time.

[Boat Doc']

It's a Yamaha, the problem sounds like the enrichener circuit is plugged up or inop.

[bob thomas]

Dear boat Doc, I have a 1991 175 merc. Recently the bottom end had a major failer, and siezed up. Stevens Marine was nice enough to sell me a new bottom end. In the process of installing it, I noticed the female end of the drive shaft was sitting in the lower cowl. I cant find any pictures or references in the book for it. Is this a shear shaft or something? What will it take to fix it? Just lifting up the power head and swapping in a new one, or a complete motor tear down. Thanks

[Boat Doc']

I think you are referring to a stub shaft that would have extended the driveshaft 5 inches. You should be able to push it up into the crank and then install the gearcase. Or remove it and put in on the driveshaft.

[bob thomas]

Dear Boat Doc, Your are right, it was just a stub shaft. It was giving me problems, and so I was imagining the worst. Thanks for the good advice. Bob

[tailwind]

Doc,

I have a new to me 2000 Merc 25HP 2 stroke. The motor will start w/ the pull to prime switch pulled out, but will die, even after running for a while, when it's pushed back in. I don't have the manual, but I am assuming that you don't run the motor with the prime on.

Any ideas?

[Boat Doc']

The correct procedure is to turn the primer clockwise all the way, pull it out and crank the engine till it runs. Once running push it in and allow it to warm up for about 1 minute. Once warmed up turn the knob back to the left and it should stay running. If it doesn't it needs adjusting or the carb gone thru.

[fishchaser]

Hey boat doc. I have a BIG problem with my motor. It is a '95 40 hp.Force. It wont fire. It acts like the battery is dead. It goes "Run,,,run,,,run,run,,,,,,,,,,. The volts come down from 11.9 to 8. vlts. We put in a new battery and checked all the cables and connections. We took the lower unit apart to see if something was siezed. Nothing siezed. Took out the starter and rebuilt it, Replaced the solinoid, still nothing. So we took out the spark plugs and she turns over just fine. We have spark in the plugs. Put one plug in and she starts to bog down. Put the second plug in and she does the "run,run,,,,run,,,,,,,,run. Had her compression tested and everything was fine.

She started acting up last year at the beginning of the year. She kept acting like she was going to die on me. In fact in neutral or just idling, she would die on me after a while and sputter, before she would. We thought that the idle was set too low, so we adjusted the idler cable.It didn't help any, she still stalled out.

What could be wrong? I even tried the old plugs to see if I had the wrong plugs in it, or something.

Could it be the timing? or the tcm?
Can you help or do I need to see someone?

[Jennie@ifish]

Name: Gavin Smith
Email: hightide@sunbeach.net


Dear Ifish ( Boat Doc)
I need assistance URGENTLY
I have a Mercury 150 Optimax 2006 which suffered an electrical
fire on the Number 3 Spark plug lead, and burnt out all the
starboard bank fuel system electrics. I have replaced that part
of the harness Number's 1,3 & 5 injector wires ( red with blue
tracer, green with white tracer and orange with white tracer)
and the hoses that melted but it will not start. I am getting a
good spark when I crank the motor over and it seems to want to
fire but it wont catch ( seems like the firing order is wrong).
I have bled the fuel system at the valves on the port side fuel
rack. Do you have a wiring diagram of the injection system
electronics so that I can confirm the wires have been connected
correctly. I am in the Caribbean on Barbados so there is no
support down here. I believe that the problem is electrical and
that the wires may have been soldered incorrectly as there are 4
red with blue tracer wires that run to injectors and they may
have been joined in the wrong order. I hope this makes sense to
you.
Please advise
Regards Gavin Smith

[Boat Doc']

I would start by removing the plugs and see if it rotates freely by hand. If it does inspect the battery cables for corrosion, loose ends broke insulation etc. If they are ok I would load test the battery, it may be bad. As for the dying at idle it sounds like you have a carb issue. They may need adjustment or cleaning.

[Boat Doc']

e-mail sent

[fishchaser]

We did load test the battery. We checked all the connections for corrosion and for broken insulation. We removed the plugs and it rotates easily. Dying at an idle is what started this whole problem.

[ripthevolcano]

Boat Doc, what is the correct idle speed for a 175 sport jet? Currently it is running around 1100 RPM. Is this too much? Thanks in advance.

[fishindude]

boat doc,
my alpha one stern drive is leaking oil from the water drain hole at bottom of drive. Does it need a reseal? How much will it cost to reseal the drive.
thanks

[EULACHON]

Any info you could give me on my post about a 150 hp 4 stroke that has been submerged in salt would be great.

Paul

[Boat Doc']

That is the correct idle speed. Any slower it will overheat

[Boat Doc']

Normally that indicates a shift shaft seal and possibly the shift shaft. If that is all it is expect about 250.00

[ripthevolcano]

OK the sportjet q was for a friend. Another question, this time about my boat. I am having a RPM loss at a constant 3000 to 3200 in my Kodiak 350 (chev) 99' North River. It is a carburated engine (stock Edelbrock) and it has just been rebuilt, I have changed the ignition module, cap, and rotor. There is no loss to fuel pressure during the loss of RPM but while using a timing light the timing is retarding. The reason we thought was the ECM. Any ideas would be very helpful. Thanks again in advance for your thoughts. :whazzup:

[Boat Doc']

The timing is controlled by the ignition module. If it has been changed and it still does it I would look at wiring connections and battery voltage.

[Green Machine]

Boat Doc:

I have 2001 9.9 Mercury Bigfoot. I noticed yesterday that it wasn't quite peeing water like normal. (Slow stream of cool water, not warm) I put it on the earmuffs at home and noticed water coming out two places. One in a hole just above the cavitation plate and two in a hole about midway up the shaft by a rubber mount. (Factory looking holes, not cracks or leaks) I checked the end of the telltale for clogs, and it looks fine. My question is is it the impellor or the water pump? It seems to be pumping a lot of water out the two holes, just not the telltale. Also the water is not warm, so is it a concern? Thanks for your help.

Green Machine

[Boat Doc']

I would guess the telltale is restricted either at the outlet or where the hose attaches to the block. If that is ok then I would remove the gearcase and check the water pump impeller.

[TheDandyDuck]

I bought a 16 foot open bow boat that I am told has a 3 liter inboard-outboard motor. My need to know is what would be considered that rated horsepower of this motor

[Green Machine]

I'll be darned, I guess that's why you get the big bucks!! I pulled off the cover on the block.....and sure enough, a big chunk of something where the hose starts out of the block. Pumps water hard now!!! Thanks a million, especially since we leave for Vancouver Island in three days.

Green Machine

[Boat Doc']

140 horsepower

[timinthegorge]

Post deleted by timinthegorge

[Boat Doc']

More than likely the voltage regulater failed. Can be caused by loose battery connections or bad battery cables or battery.

[Lepper]

Howdy Boat Doc.... I seek your assistance.

I have an 01' Suzuki 4 stroke 90. As of the last few times out I have noticed the power trim making a funny noise. I looked it over and also noticed that it appears to be leaking fluid. Well today I pulled it out of the water and the trim would not lift the motor past the 1st stage (the slower stage at the bottom) I was able to get the plug out and get a little more fluid in it, and then able to get it up high enough to get the boat home.

My question, I'm thinking (I have the manual for the motor) it is leaking around the O-rings where the motor part conects to that actual ram part? (sorry I do't know the technical questions) Question, where can I get the o-rings will they be a normal size I can pick up at the local hardware store?? Also, it apperas you have to take the steering cable off the motor to get the trim unit out. How do you do this??? or do you think I should be looking at something else??

I'm fairly mechanicically enclined so i'm not afriad to tackle a project like this. But am seeking advice.

Thanks..
dave

[Boat Doc']

You should use Suzuki parts only. I am not that familiar with Suzuki but it would not be uncommon to have to remave a clamp bracket and possibly the steering cable to release the trim unit for repairs. Some installations may require removal of the engine.

[timinthegorge]

Post deleted by timinthegorge

[Boat Doc']

There was on the smaller 4 strokes. If you can get me a serial number I can check for any open campaigns

[timinthegorge]

Post deleted by timinthegorge

[foxer]

Baot Doc...Bought one of the smaller, one hand ones at Joes with Evinrude marine grease. Grease comes out when squeezed, but for some reason, when I try to grease my outboard zirks (Suzuki DF140) the grease just comes out the side. Doesnt seem to be getting into the OB's zirk. Arent all zirks the same size?

[Boat Doc']

Yes they are the same, either the zirc is plugged or the area it goes into is filled with corrosion or? You might carefully try some heat.

[Arne K]

Boat Doc-
I'm having a problem with my 1978 Mercruiser 898 (305 GM). It has a Rochester 2bbl carb and conventional ignition. In the past few trips, it would act like it had fouled plugs in the 1500-3000rpm range under load, stuttering and missing. After getting up to 3500rpms it would seem to clear out and run fine at all rpm's the rest of the day. The condition has been gradually worsening. I replaced the plugs Friday night. Yesterday (Saturday), it ran rough under load in the 1500-3000rpm range all day, with an ocassional backfire through the carb. Then it got real bad. I was tring to run against the current and it would stall at about 1500rpms, like it was starving for fuel. By lightly feathering the throttle, I was able to get it to stay running and up to full throttle, but I was only going 10mph. Normally it runs 35+mph. It would occasionally backfire through the carb and the exhaust smelled real rich. Over the next 5 miles, it gradually gained rpm's. After that, it went back to where it just run rough in the mid rpm's but would still accelerate. It idles smooth and runs smooth under load at 3200-4500rpm's. With the backfire through the carburetor, I was thinking lean run condition, but the exhaust smelled rich and it used a lot more fuel than usual. I can't afford to take a shotgun approach and just start replacing things. Where do I start? Thank you for your time in advance.

[baitslinger]

Doc,

I just replaced my water pump impeller on a 1985, 15 hp evinrude. I noticed I can pull my prop outward on shaft (away from lower unit) and it has about 1/8 inch freeplay? Is this normal? Maybe I should try and tighten prop nut more and reduce this freeplay? Thanks for any advice.

[Boat Doc']

Start with basics, compression and spark. Check the point and timing settings and verify you are getting full spark advance. If all this checks ok I would go thru the carb. Sounds like the accelerater pump isn't functioning correctly or it has debris in it.

[Boat Doc']

As long as it shifts into both gears and doesn't jump out of gear it is normal.

[Lighthouse]

Doc,

I just finished replacing the gear lube in my 2003 Sportjet, and would like to change the Stator gear lube as well. After removing, the steering and reverse gate cables, the four pump assembly bolts, and a little coaxing with a rubber mallet, I am having a hard time unseating the pump assembly, is there something I missed? If not what is the best way to unseat the pump assembly?

Thanks Boat Doc for any help!

[Boat Doc']

remove the nozzle and reverse bucket then try a little more persuasion with your mallet.

[Lighthouse]

Doc,

Thanks for the quick reply, very much appreciated on this end.

#1. When I re-assemble, what kind of torque will the bolts for the nozzle and reverse bucket need?

#2. Also the nozzle assy. and the stator bolts call out for two different kinds of loctite (242 = 4x stator bolts & 2x ride plate bolts)& (271 = 4x nozzle assembly bolts), will the bucket and nozzle bolts require different thread locks as well?, if so which for which?.

#3. Back to unseating the nozzle assembly with the rubber mallet, is there a collar on either the nozzle assy. or stator that insert into the other or will it just drop once it comes loose?, or is there a liquid gasket of some sort used during assembly of these two units?, I will be using your instructions with the nozzle and reverse buckt. Wednesday.

#4. Doc, will the stator be just as stubborn to unseat and will I need a specific grease to apply on the seals to prevent damage as it warns in the basic maintenance manual for re-install of the stator?

#5. Doc you are absolutely awesome that you take the time to help us that are unprepared without a real maintenance manual, and Steven's Marine for coordinating with your time. Steven's Marine Tigard has showed me good service since I bought my new boat there, and with this forum for added measure I am pleased. How bout a new slogan;(Alumaweld Boats-they're there when you need them)Thanks Boat Doc'!

[Dances with Fish]

1969 Johnson 55 hp OB electric shift same owner past 25 years (Uncle). Motor would start cold die after warmed abit and brought down to idle to shift, then flood when you tried to restart (plugs wet). Changed fuel (2 tanks one just filled 50:1, newer plastic tanks), 3 sets of plugs 2 champ, 1 autolite. Removed fuel pump and inspected, no holes in diaphram, clear screen. Removed each carb, disassembled and inspected (all clean and clear). Found one small crack in fuel line (replaced). Has spark (unit has electronic ignition). Just wants to flood out and either starts once or not at all when tried. Any thoughts? Could the ignition show spark but be week enough not to run, or be intermitent? We did get it started and in gear made a run in Netarts but motor died when we stopped (used the kicker to get back). FYI I was a small engine mechanic for a living for 5 years and have moved on to other feilds so I have enough know how to disassemble inspect and correctly reassemble the above parts listed. Plugs in, it has compression, I will check with gauge tonight and compare all 3 readings (what is the comp range?) Help?????? :smash: :sick:

[Boat Doc']

The spark should jump a 3/8ths inch gap and be blue. Compression should be around 110 psi and be close to equal. If it has good spark, compression and carbs don't flood when squeezing the primer bulb I would check the reed valves.

[FISHON67]

Hey Doc,

I'm having a aluminum swim platform added to my 19' Stryker. I'm wondering what needs to be done in preparation to welding the platform on to the transom. :shrug:

I figured I would disconnect the battery, but was also wondering about the foam in the boat.

I was also wondering if you can suggest how far down/up the transon the platform should be placed for ease of use? I'm adding a Windline two step (24") telescoping ladder

Do you have any suggestions?

Thank you :cheers:

[frogwaterkid]

Hey Doc,

I have a 1993 Mercury 75hp and running at 4,000 rpm, my voltage gauge reads right below 16 volts. Seems like it used to be around 14.5 volts. Is this too high? It reads 12 at idle. Could the regulator be bad? Any ideas?

Thanks,

[Dances with Fish]

RE: 55 hp Johnson, Compression is 115 psi, 120 and 120 psi. The spark jumps the plug but not an HEI tester, I thought the tester might be to resistant but I hooked it up to my pressure washer and got a nice hot blue spark. I will call for a ignition today and hopefully this will cure the problem. Thank you.

I was looking at the parts list (ignition, coil and stator) aslo shows a timer? What is the timers function? Only see it on this model?

[iampapajack]

Boat Doc. 2001 21' NWJet 350 chev carb. motorI can't solve a problem with a stallout after a run and then a hot soak and restart. I have determined the problem is caused by fuel foaming (vapor lock). Replaced lots of parts i.e. new holley elect fuel pump (has 9 lbs or pressure ands lots of flow) fuel separator, isolated all fuel lines from metal and they are quality lines (aircraft) new ign. parts ( spark plugs, dist cap ,rotor, ign module, ign coil. plenty of base voltage (Optima batts) cut hole and vented engine cover (as per builder and Redline Marine) all to no avail. I'm thinking of converting to throttle body fuel injection in an effort to resolve condition by using more fuel pressure. Can you recommend a retrofit, and have you done any yourself with success? Have you seen a problem like mine and if so how did you repair it? Thanks for any help. .Jack (P.S.. I have a auto repair shop so you can talk to me in very technical terms if needed)

[iampapajack]

think I posted this wrong, w3anted to post to boat doc does anyone know how to get post in correct area?

[Boat Doc']

Shouldn't need to worry about foam. Go ahead and weld it on. We have an inboard jet here that is mounted 11 inches from the top.

[Boat Doc']

Verify the volt meter reading with another gauge, if it's higher than 14.7 then look at connections and cables and battery condition. If all are ok then the regulater is probably bad.

[Boat Doc']

If the spark is weak you should check the points, cap, rotor and ignition switch. The fact that it's there is an indication the other components are ok. Parts for that may be expensive and hard to come by.

[Boat Doc']

I would talk to KEM Equiptment or Redline about a marine conversion. The heat soak shouldn't be that hard to eliminate. There is lots of other boats out there that don't have the problem. You might try checking the engine temp with an infra red gun to see if something isn't plugged causing part of the engine to be hot. It may be full of sand or? Make sure there is no alcohol in the fuel. Good luck.

[frogwaterkid]

Thanks Doc, I will check with a Multimeter, all connections looked good.

[Green Machine]

Boat Doc, I need your help.

I have 2001 Trophy with a 4.3 V-6 and 9.9 Bigfoot kicker. Here is my problem. I prime the fuel bulb to the kicker and start the kicker motor. It runs fine for two to three minutes and then dies. I run back to look and the primer bulb is sucked down tight like a vapor lock. I have the factory setting......kicker fuel line tapped into fuel water separator. I tried new bulb and hose from kicker to separator, blew out the lines from both ends and even took off the separater housing to see if it was clogged.....still gets vapor lock?? How in the heck does it get air that it needs?? The big motor runs fine on the same separator. I guess I could run a different tank for the kicker, but not really a lot of extra storage and a pain. Someone said it may be the float on the carb sticking, but if you stick a screwdriver in the fuel port end of the hose and pump up the ball, it will spit fuel until it runs out of air and collapses the ball. I'm really confused. Thanks for your help!!

Green Machine

[Boat Doc']

If the bulb is physically collapsed then there is a restriction between the bulb and the fuel source. The troller should only go thru one anti siphon valve. Check for a plugged filter or kinked or restricted lines. Also could be the bulb itself.

[overfitty]

Hey, Doc...I'm beside myself with despair! My '02 Yamaha 115hp jet pump on a 16' flatbottom sled gave me 16mph TOPS! this past weekend. It's back in the dealer this morning for the 5th time!! They can't find anything wrong...and they speculate that it's the 'rev limitor' that's causing the loss in power. I recently added a 35 gallon gas tank forward of the middle bench in the boat (they installed it. The tank was a side tank from a bigger Alumaweld that I bought, and that's when the trouble started, but they say that shouldn't have anything to do with it. Is there some 'magic formula' regarding weight forward in the boat?? Should I put the tank to the back of the middle bench?? I'm perplexed at this point as to what to do???

[Boat Doc']

You could either remove the fuel or tank. If it was weight distribution there would be water coming off the chine up by the tank, meaning the boat is running wet. Also make sure the reverse cup is down TITE when in forward. If out of adjustment they can come up and block exhaust and water flow. If it is the rev limiter the engine would cut out. Also check for debris in the intake and outlet of the pump and the shimming and condition of the liner.

[SMACKDOWN]

Boat Doc,

Where should the leading edge of an outboard pump be positioned in relation to the bottom of a 16ft, 6 degree, Smokercraft Sportsman? I'm not sure if the center of the leading edge should be level with the bottom of the vee, or if the two outside leading edges should be level with the bottom, thus placing the center about 3/4" higher than the bottom of the vee. Thanks in advance for your help!

[Boat Doc']

top of the intake even with the bottom at center.

[Iwish]

Boat Doc,

Have a 1999 Evinrude 50 horse oil injected. Installed a Lowrance EP10 fuel filter a couple of months ago and all fuel in line drained out. Fast forward two months, primed ball last night and started motor down at the local river. Took a few times to warm it up and keep it running but it did just fine. Problem is that it is smoking terribly. Is it something that will clear up becaust the fuel line was disconnected but the oil wasn't? I did also fill up the oil tank before running it and I put in 3 1/2 quarts. First 2 looked clean and blue and the next 1 1/2 looked older and green. Same bottle/brand and it all came with the boat. Should I drain it all and start over or is there anything wrong with either the blue or green oil? Bottle said 3 stroke? Hope I didn't put the kicker oil in the main oil tank. Thing is it started smoking really bad from the beginning. Thanks in advance for your help.

[Iwish]

Sorry, forgot one more thing,

Before all this started, about the last time out or the time before the RPM gauge started acting funny. Kind of sticking. Then it eventually just died. Won't read at all now. Shortly after that the tilt on the throttle won't go up, just down. Works fine on the motor and down on the throttle is OK, just up on the throttle doesn't work. No relation between the two, just wanted to ask. Thanks again.

[Boat Doc']

If it runs out of gas it does continue to pump oil, so it should clear up in a few minutes of running. You should be using a 2 cycle TCW 2 or 3 rated oil. If it is something else you should remove it. The trim not working at the control is going to be the switch in the handle.

[Iwish]

Thanks.

Have you heard the oil change colors? Does it do this when it's old or changed? One sealed quart was green while the other 2 were blue?

Thanks for your help.

[Boat Doc']

Different brands can be different colors.

[Johnny B Bad]

Boat Doc: I just bought a used 2005 9.9 merc kicker. The previous owner said it is just barely broken in and needs the fluids changed. I have changed lower unit oil before on O?D's and it looks the same as that, but what about the crankcase oil? Is there a filter? Do you just lay it down to drain the oil from the drain plug without running it down the side? He could not find the manual, so I am flying a little blind. Are there any other things I should do for the 10 hour service? Thanks, John

[Boat Doc']

There is no filter, let it run down the side or turn it sideways if you want. Lube the zerks and change the gear oil and you should be good to go.

[Tinman]

Boat Doc: My 1996 Johnson 88 hp is hard to start cold. It takes a lot of bulb squeezing to get it to fire. Once it fires, it quickly dies until I pump the bulb up again. I go through 4 or 5 of these start/die/squeeze/start cycles before it finally keeps running.

When starting, I make sure the motor is in normal running position, and the fast-idle lever is up. The tank vent is open. I push the key in repeatedly to prime the engine.

If the motor is at all warm, it will start instantly. My fuel system is very simple on my dory-- multiple portable tanks with a simple hoze and squeeze bulb. I have two separate hose assemblies, and both have the same problem.

[riverhawk]

boat dr. I have an earlyer Alumaweld with a 351 with a three stage pump and a no.4 impeller, fresh water cooled,I have small oil leak on the rear of the intake manifold while I have it off was thinking about putting a hi-rise manifold on it could give me a good part number for one thanks

[Boat Doc']

Either the primer isn't working or it's not being used properly. You need to push in and hold in the key while cranking. If you still have problems you can check the enrichener by pushing in the key while the engine is running, it should immediately drop rpm's. If not then check for voltage to the enrichener.It could be the key switch or the enrichener.

[Boat Doc']

Any one that doesn't require emissions equiptment should work. Make sure you have clearance under the motor box for the extra height.

[Bluto]

Hey Boat Doc!
I've got a Suzi DF225. This weekend in the wind we got a large amount of line wrapped around the prop shaft (behind the prop & prop spacer washer - so it is between the spacer washer & the seal). The large spacer washer is stuck on the shaft probably due to the melted mono... I've been able to get most of it out, but atleast 10ft has broken off behind the washer. There doesn't appear to be any water getting into the lower unit (yet), but I'd like to get the washer off to remove the rest to inspect the seal. I've tapping it with a screwdriver & hammer with no luck. Any ideas before I go to the dealer and be out of commision for a while?
Thanks!

[Boat Doc']

Try carefully prying on both sides at the same time, if that doesn't work try a little bit of heat and it should pop right off.

[Boatdog]

Boat Doc,

Could you please give me the replacement part # or kit # for an impeller replacement for a 1998 8hp Merc 2-stroke long shaft kicker? A price would be appreciated also.

Is there anything tricky to replacing this?

Thank you :cheers:

[Boat Doc']

the kit is #46-42089A5 for about 90.00 it includes the stainless housing. The impeller is # 47-420382 they run about 20.00.

[fishcat]

need to replace lower unit on '97 90 hp merc, 3 jaw clutch.
what other years and hp will fit. also can it be converted to 6 jaw if need be and what else would be required.
thanks

[Boat Doc']

3 jaw clutch was used on 1997 and prior. Besides a 6 jaw lower unit you also need to change the upper shift shaft and shift arm, on non tiller models this requires removal of the powerhead.

[fishcat]

thanks for the info

[Fish_N_Russ]

Hey Doc,
I am looking at a used sled with an older (I think its a late 70s) 50 horse Merc.....Im told it runs good but just in case it needs some 'regular maintenance' ballpark what is a person looking at pricewise>? any ideas
thanks

[Boat Doc']

Minor tune , sharpen & shim impeller, plugs, filters and adjust looking around $300

[Fish_N_Russ]

thank you, that helps a lot
Russ

[fishcat]

is a "big foot" lower unit any different than a standard lower unit? also would a '86 big foot 85hp fit a '97 90 hp.

what other options do i have, trying to keep costs down, but get back on the water.

thanks

[Tinman]

Thanks Boat Doc, I think I need to keep the key pushed in while I start the Johnson.

[Boat Doc']

Need more engine info to answer your question. A bigfoot gearcase is normally from the next higher model of engine, for example a 60 bigfoot has a 75-90 gearcase.

[Wet-Net]

I currently have a 14x19 aluminium prop that needs
some rework. It is on a 19 ft Intruder V6 Sterndrive.
I will have my old prop repaired and will be kept as
a spare. I have been shopping the new props on the market and wonder if a four blade prop, like a 14x20 aluminium Michigan Wheel Vortex would perform better at top end speed, launching out of the hole & holding in tight turns than a 3 blade 14x19 S.S. prop?

[Tacklebuster]

Hi Boat Doc,
I got a 05 150 Yami 4 stroke. I don't plan on running her much at all from now until March. Should I change the oil, filter, and lower unit oil now and store it or should I wait until March until I use her again?

Thanks

[Boat Doc']

If you are running the Mirage series stainless it will be the best all around prop. Staying with stainless and increasing the number of blades you will gain hole shot and may lose slightly on top end. In going from the Mirage series to aluminum you may gain hole shot but will suffer in grip and top end. If you have a Vengeance or it says nothing going to the 4 blade aluminum will probably be a significant improvement in hole shot but not help grip or top end.

[Boat Doc']

Change what you desribed now and change fuel filters in the spring. Make sure you also stabilize the fuel and put oil in the cylinders and crank it over to coat the cylinders if its going to be sitting more than 90 days.

[Redneck]

hi boat doc. i've got a 2005 sportjet 175. sometimes when turn the key to start the engine it will turn over a few times then stop and i'll hear a buzzing noise coming from the engine (i still have the key on "start"). other times i'll turn the key and it will buzz right away without turning the engine over. i did a battery load test yesterday and the battery is in great shape. i was thinking the problem could either be the key switch, starter relay or the starter itself. have you heard of this problem?

also, i setup my key switch's choke function to run the fuel primer pump. i don't know if maybe i fried the key switch, that primer pump can draw 1.5 Amps. it will still do the buzzing even when i don't use the choke during cranking.

thanks,
redneck

[Boat Doc']

The buzzing is caused by low voltage, check the battery, battery cables and connections.

[Maddie'sDaddy]

Hello Dr, I have a 70 hp Force OB motor and the steering was kinda rouph, so i removed the cable end from the tube that allows the motor to trim, well in the process of cleaning out that tube , Uknowingly i lost a small rubber O ring that fits inside the end of the tube, I would imagine it is to keep the grease from coming out of that end. I tried and tried to put it back to no avail and that is how i lost it, Will it hurt it to not be there and if so, if i get another is there a special tool used to replace it? The good news is that my steering feels alot looser.


MD

[UmpquaSpecial]

Hey Boat Doc,

Great service your doing here. Much appreciated!

I have a 2001 8hp Yamaha 4-stroke. Been excellent for me. However, last weekend the starter cord wouldn't retract. The next day I gave it a pull and it retracted fine. I'm now wondering whether to have it serviced or not. It's my only motor on my DB and I have a fear of getting trapped this fall while chasing chinook on Tillamook Bay. What's your advice? If you suggest service, is this something I should tackle on my own?
Thanks in advance.
Chris.

[Boat Doc']

The seal keeps the grease in and the water out. If you keep it well greased it will be ok. Well greased is defined by removing the cable from the engine , applying a liberal amount of grease and reassembling. Every 3 months in fresh water, monthly in salt. The seal is an o-ring that fits into a groove and doesn't require special tools.

[Boat Doc']

It probably needs lubed, WD 40 works good.

[Maddie'sDaddy]

Thank you doc :smile:


MD

[Arne K]

Hi Boat Doc. You helped me out a couple of weeks ago with my Mercruiser 898 in my Glas Ply which wasn't accelerating. You were right on, the mechanical advance was stuck at 20 degrees. My next problem is this: It pings under load (which is most of the time with this boat). I have the initial advance set at the spec of 8 degrees. This gives it full advance of 32 degrees. My repair manual doesn't give spec for full advance. Is 32 degrees too much?

[Capt Bob]

Hello Boat Doc.
I am running a 2001 Merc 225 DFI. It ran great to Tuna town and back last week end, but went to flush the engine back in the driveway and now have an alarm that beeps constantly while the engine is running. Can you guide me as what to look for?
Thank you :bowdown:
Bob

[Cowlitz77]

Dear Boat doc,
My sportjet quit on me---was starting to move forward---coming up on plane and snap---lost all power to the impeller.. Motor runs fine--starts right up. Pulled the grate and you can turn the impeller shaft freely---so I assume something sheared. Where should i start looking. Are there any common weak spots in the pump shafts--gears? Is there a shear pin. Could it be in the powerhead itself? Thanks

[unionguynw]

Same Sport Jet problem here!! Help!!! Ran it with the garden hose hooked up and NADA...Shaft not turning.

It's a 2003 175

[Shaker-King]

Doc,

I have a few of questions. I have 20' 2004 Intruder, std transom outboard, 82" bottom.

1. I want to install a second bilge pump with an auto switch. Is there an issue with screwing into the boxed girders to mount the pump? Is there anything like foam in the boxed girders?

2. When I wash down the deck the water and fish parts only drain at the sides where the deck meets the sides of the boat. Are there obstructions under the deck that will allow the fish parts to hang up on before they get to the bilge? Is there a good flush mount drain that can be added to the deck to make a quicker more direct path to the bilge?

3. I see the newer models have a 60 gallon fuel tank, the 2004 came with a 38 gallon tank. Is upgrading to the 60 gallon tank possibility without breaking the bank?

[JohnnyP]

1994 Mercury 150 HP pump with 430 hrs, tachometer stopped working, any suggestions on trying to fix it???? Is it a cable or electrical wire? Thanks

[litch dog]

Hay boat doc I just bought a 9.9 honda kiker. It has a tiller handel I would like to steer it from the helm via a linkage from my main motor. Any bolt on bracket that you know of to do this. If so let me know the part # and cost Thanks Litch dog

[Tinman]

Boat Doc: The manual for my 1996 Johnson 88 hp says I should decarbonize after every 50 hours of use. That seems excessive, is that still the current recommendation? Also, do you suggest the OMC decarb product or Seafoam? By the way, you gave me excellent advice about holding down the enricher key when cold starting. The motor now starts much better...thanks.

[ripthevolcano]

Boat Doc, I have a 93 Mercury 9.9 2 stroke kicker and last weekend it started running poorly and dying. It started by dying at mid troll speed, it would run fine at slow speed and at 3/4 and full throttle. I changed the plugs but the next day it ran the same. It would run fine w/ the choke out but a little rough. I put some heat treatment in the gas as I was out on the big blue and the tank sits on the swim platform, thought maybe some water got in the gas. Any ideas where to start? I thought I would get some new gas this weekend and work on it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. :bowdown:

[Boat Doc']

Hi Boat Doc. You helped me out a couple of weeks ago with my Mercruiser 898 in my Glas Ply which wasn't accelerating. You were right on, the mechanical advance was stuck at 20 degrees. My next problem is this: It pings under load (which is most of the time with this boat). I have the initial advance set at the spec of 8 degrees. This gives it full advance of 32 degrees. My repair manual doesn't give spec for full advance. Is 32 degrees too much?

I think 29 is closer, try retarding it a couple degrees. Sorry for the delay, been on vacation.

[Boat Doc']

Hello Boat Doc.
I am running a 2001 Merc 225 DFI. It ran great to Tuna town and back last week end, but went to flush the engine back in the driveway and now have an alarm that beeps constantly while the engine is running. Can you guide me as what to look for?
Thank you :bowdown:
Bob

I assume you got this taken care of, it was probably low on oil in the engine reservoir. Sorry been on vacation.

[Boat Doc']

Dear Boat doc,
My sportjet quit on me---was starting to move forward---coming up on plane and snap---lost all power to the impeller.. Motor runs fine--starts right up. Pulled the grate and you can turn the impeller shaft freely---so I assume something sheared. Where should i start looking. Are there any common weak spots in the pump shafts--gears? Is there a shear pin. Could it be in the powerhead itself? Thanks

It's either the impeller key or the gear box. Good luck. Sorry for the delay, been on vacation.

[Rogue Fisher67]

Boat Doc: My 2001 Sportjet 175 won't start.:sick: The pinion gear is in the engaged position and won't drop back down. I've disconnected power and removed the starter. Do I need the whole starter or just a part or two?? I'll take it apart today and see if maybe it just needs some lube or something simple like a broken spring.

Thanks!

Ok, now I've done it. I took it apart and got it working nicely on the bench. I reinstalled it and gave it a try. I stopped when it started smoking... So, I took it back apart and small burnt pieces fell out. I think I'll wait for an answer this time.

Thanks again

[Boat Doc']

1994 Mercury 150 HP pump with 430 hrs, tachometer stopped working, any suggestions on trying to fix it???? Is it a cable or electrical wire? Thanks

Pro9bably has a bad tach circuit in the voltage regulater, try unplugging the gray wire at the regulater and plug it in to the other gray wire on the other regulater.

[Boat Doc']

Hay boat doc I just bought a 9.9 honda kiker. It has a tiller handel I would like to steer it from the helm via a linkage from my main motor. Any bolt on bracket that you know of to do this. If so let me know the part # and cost Thanks Litch dog

I assume you got this done, if not check with your dealer, there should be a bracket that bolts to the motor for that purpose.

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc: The manual for my 1996 Johnson 88 hp says I should decarbonize after every 50 hours of use. That seems excessive, is that still the current recommendation? Also, do you suggest the OMC decarb product or Seafoam? By the way, you gave me excellent advice about holding down the enricher key when cold starting. The motor now starts much better...thanks.

I would follow the manufactures recommendations and use the recommended product at the intervals they specify. Personaly I would do it annually and use anything that has been proven by others to work well.

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc, I have a 93 Mercury 9.9 2 stroke kicker and last weekend it started running poorly and dying. It started by dying at mid troll speed, it would run fine at slow speed and at 3/4 and full throttle. I changed the plugs but the next day it ran the same. It would run fine w/ the choke out but a little rough. I put some heat treatment in the gas as I was out on the big blue and the tank sits on the swim platform, thought maybe some water got in the gas. Any ideas where to start? I thought I would get some new gas this weekend and work on it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. :bowdown:

Sorry for the delay, You need to disassemble and clean the carb, also take a fuel sample and if it's contaminated remove the contamination.

[aye fsh]

Boat Doc,
I busted off one of the 10mm x 150mm SS screws that holds the stator / wear ring onto the pump housing on a 175 sportjet. It was only this one bolt that was corroded into place, and of course it was one of the lower ones. Zincs are all working so I don't know if it's galvanic or crevice corrosion, doesn't matter I guess. Any reccommendation on a threadlocker or sealant product to apply to the parts to inhibit this corrosion?
Thank You-
TM

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc,
I busted off one of the 10mm x 150mm SS screws that holds the stator / wear ring onto the pump housing on a 175 sportjet. It was only this one bolt that was corroded into place, and of course it was one of the lower ones. Zincs are all working so I don't know if it's galvanic or crevice corrosion, doesn't matter I guess. Any reccommendation on a threadlocker or sealant product to apply to the parts to inhibit this corrosion?
Thank You-
TM

I would use never seize on anything you want to remove in the future.

[Shaker-King]

Doc,

I have a few of questions. I have 20' 2004 Intruder, std transom outboard, 82" bottom.

1. I want to install a second bilge pump with an auto switch. Is there an issue with screwing into the boxed girders to mount the pump? Is there anything like foam in the boxed girders?

2. When I wash down the deck the water and fish parts only drain at the sides where the deck meets the sides of the boat. Are there obstructions under the deck that will allow the fish parts to hang up on before they get to the bilge? Is there a good flush mount drain that can be added to the deck to make a quicker more direct path to the bilge?

3. I see the newer models have a 60 gallon fuel tank, the 2004 came with a 38 gallon tank. Is upgrading to the 60 gallon tank possibility without breaking the bank?

Doc, any ideas here?

[aye fsh]

I would use never seize on anything you want to remove in the future.

Is "never seize" a particular product? I've seen several products, some with copper in it. Do you have a product or type suggestion that is specific to this application, i.e. stainless steel bolt into cast aluminum housing?
Thanks,
TM

[Chrome Bumper]

http://www.devcon.com/devconcatsolution.cfm?catid=74 Shipyards use the copper flavor. Fluid Connectors has a wide selection.

[aye fsh]

Thank you for the reply Chrome Bumper.
TM

[Slayer]

Where can I find a manual for a 1999 40 hp Mercury ML 4 stroke?

[troutski]

Is it true that you are not suppose to use automotive parts for marine applications. My Merc. takes NGK spark plugs and they are very expensive from the local marine retailer. The same plug (same part number)from NAPA is about 1/4 the price, just don't want to void a warranty or violate a Coast Guard Reg. in the process of being frugal. Any help would be appreciated.

Chuck

[Boat Doc']

As long as the number matches you can buy it anywhere. Parts to avoid from automotive would be ignition caps, rotors, some plug wires, starters, alternaters, solenoids, relays etc. These components may not be spark proof or may be made from materials that will corrode and fail prematurely.

[Boat Doc']

Give us a call we can order the factory manual for you or you can get a after market one from joes or fishermans.

[troutski]

Thanks, I will..............

Chuck

[alanmikkelsen]

Boat Doc,

I purchased an 18' Alumaweld tiller sled from Stevens a few months ago. It's a great boat and has been running good. It has an 8 hp Merc kicker, with it's own remote oil reservoir. When I got home from a fishing trip last week, I hooked the battery charger up and noticed that the kicker oil reservoir was full, when it should have been no more than 2/3 or 3/4 full. I screwed the top off and stuck my finger in it. I could smell gas. Just before the trip I changed out the fuel filter (Mercury spin on). Would this have caused gas to back flush into the kicker oil reservoir? I need to get this addressed before my next trip. I was probably running a pretty thin oil mix on this last trip and hope I didn't hurt the kicker motor. It was running good when I loaded up to come home. Thanks.

[Boat Doc']

The fuel mixed with oil indicates a check valve or diaphragm problem. My advice would be to eliminate the oiler and run a seperate tank that you mix yourself. That way you are assured the kicker is getting the oil it needs.

[Sallysea]

Hello, I have dual 2004 yamaha 150's, 4 stroke with fly by wire shifting. With one engine, I have to sometimes rock the shift lever back and forth to hit neutral in order to start it. Is this a big thing to fix? Everything else works fine.

[alanmikkelsen]

The fuel mixed with oil indicates a check valve or diaphragm problem. My advice would be to eliminate the oiler and run a seperate tank that you mix yourself. That way you are assured the kicker is getting the oil it needs.

Boat Doc, are the oil injection systems that unreliable? I really like not having to mix gas and the kicker runs out of the same tank.

[Redneck]

hey boat doc,
what is a normal reading on the water temperature gauge for the 175 sportjet? is the reading different at idle and while running? do these engines have thermostats?
thanks,
redneck

[Boat Doc']

There should be a switch in the control that is either lose or needs adjustment or replaced.

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc, are the oil injection systems that unreliable? I really like not having to mix gas and the kicker runs out of the same tank.

They can be very unreliable, we recommend using a seperate tank or upgrading to a 4 stroke. In most cases parts are not available.

[Boat Doc']

hey boat doc,
what is a normal reading on the water temperature gauge for the 175 sportjet? is the reading different at idle and while running? do these engines have thermostats?
thanks,
redneck

There is no temperature control on the 175 sport jet, as long as there is no alarms it should be fine. The temperature can vary with rpm as water flow changes.

[Snagged]

I have a 80lbs. thrust Riptide on my DB 24 volt. Yesterday on the clack my batteries died on the first hole backing down some divers. I had the charger plugged in from about noon the day before until I left that morning. The only thing I can think of (and I hope this is not what happened) is that last week going down the clack the motor took a couple of dings on the rocks and started making a moaning sound under low speed. My fear is that I bent something (already) and now the motor is drawing lots of amps to overcome the increased load and thus draining my battery. The other option is that I did not plug the charger in all the way or the plug slipped from the socket, the more preferable situation. Anyone have any experience with this that can maybe offer some insight? The motor purrs at full throttle but moans a bit at lower speeds.

[Boat Doc']

Check the amperage draw to see if it's excessive, contact Ollie Damon to see what it should be. Also check the batteries to see that they are fully charged. Charging overnight may not be long enough to fully charge the batteries.

[Rogue Fisher67]

Hey Boat Doc,
I killed my starter on my 175 sportjet a couple months ago. The brushes were obviously bad so I replaced those. Everything else appears to be okay. Finally tried it tonite and the motor turns over but very slowly then stops and the starter is getting pretty hot. I checked the battery and it was showing 12 volts so I'm guessing that's good. I'm wondering what inside the starter could be bad or if you have any advice on what to do next. Thanks!

[Boat Doc']

If the battery is in good condition, check the brush contact surface of the armature and make sure it's clean and smooth. also clean between the contacts. If the brushes are in good shape, and the surfaces are clean the armature may be bad. This is assuming the engine turns over freely.

[toddsnorthriver]

Hi Boat Doc,
I'm a little confused about using fuel additives in my 2005 Yamaha 225. I keep the tank full of fuel and use the boat to go sturgeon fishing at least once a week. Do I need to add a additive if I use it this much even as cold as it has been getting. I have never had a hard starting issue with it and it runs great all the time. If I should use a additive, what type should I look into getting. Thanks, Todd

[Boat Doc']

No, additives in fuel should not be used unless needed for storage or removing carbon per manufacturer recommendations. Having a good water seperating fuel filter and changing it at least annually is all you should need to do. If it was to sit more than 3 months then you should stabilize the fuel.

[hydrascott]

Dear Boat Doc

What are the pro's and cons of running your motors dry (out of gas when still in the water) before taking the boat out of the water? If so then why? Does this cause any damage to the motor?

I don't practice this but have seen lots of people doing so. I just cant seem to figure out why they do this unless they are planning on storing their boat.

[toddsnorthriver]

No, additives in fuel should not be used unless needed for storage or removing carbon per manufacturer recommendations. Having a good water seperating fuel filter and changing it at least annually is all you should need to do. If it was to sit more than 3 months then you should stabilize the fuel.

Great, thanks for the info. I really didn't want to, 70 gallons is a lot to burn to get rid of a bad batch. Thanks again, Todd

[Boat Doc']

Dear Boat Doc

What are the pro's and cons of running your motors dry (out of gas when still in the water) before taking the boat out of the water? If so then why? Does this cause any damage to the motor?

I don't practice this but have seen lots of people doing so. I just cant seem to figure out why they do this unless they are planning on storing their boat.
The reason to do so would be to run the gas out of the float bowls so it doesn't varnish or leak fuel into the motor well when tilted. On oil injected motors doing so can fill the float bowls with oil making it difficult or impossible to start without draining the float bowls. It would not be necessary when stabilizer is added for storage or if it is run approx. every 90 days.

[EULACHON]

Please explain what all the ports are on the water seperator on my boat. It has 2 on the one side and 2 on the other can't tell if they say in or out.

Thanks

[slimsadie]

Boat Doc, I have a 2000 175 sportjet which runs great once it starts. The problem I am having is when the boat is cranking over and just starts to turn over it just stops. So I have to do that several times before it starts. Any idea what this would be? Thanks-Slim

[Boat Doc']

If it turns over and stops it is likely a low battery, loose connections, or corroded cables. If it turns over and disengages it is getting to much fuel, you could try advancing the throttle.

[Rogue Fisher67]

Boat Doc,
I have a problem with my 2001 sportjet 175. Thought it was a bad starter but I finally figured out the real problem. One of the cylinders was full of water. I drained it out and put some oil in. I was finally able to get it to start and it seemed to run just fine. I pulled the sparkplug out and there wasn't any water in it now. Is it possible to get water in through the exhaust. Is there anything other than a compression test that I need to do or just keep an eye on it???? Thanks

[Boat Doc']

Keep an eye on it and avoid situations that would allow water to enter the cylinders when the engine is not running, which can be caused by, excess weight in the back of the boat, waves driving water thru the exhaust, backing the boat into the water quickly etc.

[Slayer]

I'm sure you get lots of the same questions but I could not find the information I needed to have this question answered, so here it goes. By the way Thanks!
I just bought a 93 8 HP 2 stroke motor, and my main motor is a 2000 40 HP 4 stroke. Is there anyway to run both engines off of the same motor?

Thanks again!
Chris

[Boat Doc']

I assume you mean the same fuel source, to do so would require a good working auto oiler. The Mercury Auto Blends work the best but they havn't been made in several years. I would recommend a seperate fuel tank for the troller.

[Slayer]

Thanks! you're a great source of info. Your forum was one of the reasons I ultimately bought a boat at the Milwaukie store.

[Klamath 15]

Boat Doc,
First boat, I've got a 25 four stroke Honda on it. I have a H&## of a time 1 getting it started and 2 getting it to idle really smooth. Is this simply because it is so new (tight)? I'm spending 20 -25 minutes getting it started and then havin to speed up the idle to keep it going, it seems even when it is warmed up it idles really rough and if left unattended it will die after a couple minutes. if it helps the motor has about 3 hours on it. Any input would be much appreciated.

Kevin

[Boat Doc']

It needs some adjustments, don't wait for break in. Possible problems are cold running, and running to lean. I would advise you to take it to your dealer and get it fixed.

[Slayer]

Is there any reason not to move my gas tanks (2x 6 gallons) to the front of the boat and run 16 ft of hose down under the deck?

[Boat Doc']

Doing so will probably help balance the boat and would be a great idea.

[Tyler5592]

Hi Boat Doc,

I need some advice about my current boat situation.

Last year I bought a 1997 15 foot Alaskan with a 1986 20 hp Johnson for about $2700. I thought that this was a really good deal as it came with a galvanized trailer, fish finder, rod holders etc..... and the person who owned it before me stuck a center console in the thing (It still has the three benches though). I bought the boat for crabbing/salmon fishing the bays and for bass fishing the local lakes/reservoirs. Unfortunately, the engine turned out to be a complete lemon and while I have fixed most of the things on it, the lower unit had a leaky seal and my local marina in Corvallis told me to basically run it until she blew. :redface:

OK, so here comes the advice part. I'm torn between buying a new engine for the boat (perhaps a 30-40hp 4-stroke) or to try and sell the boat, get enough to pay off what is left of the small boat loan and then take $6,000 and start over again looking for a different boat, perhaps an 17-18 footer. (a little more space on the interior would be nice, especially for crabbing).

So, if you needed an all purpose boat, one that could be used for salmon fishing/crabbing and bass/walleye fishing would you put the money into a new engine on my current boat or look for a slightly bigger and roomier boat? Can $6000 even buy me a decent used 17-18' boat with a 40hp engine? :shrug:

Thanks for you input. I'm new to the Northwest and to being a boat owner so I am still trying to figure out what I really need to best suit my needs out here. :help: :)

Tyler