Stevens Marine Boat Doc'

[jimsbuddy]

I replaced my signal housings on the trailer 3 mo ago while at astoria fishing, well this weekend I noticed that one is already coroded to point it dosent make contact with the bulb... any tips on keeping the sockets from coroding??? I was thining some diaelectric greast or battery terminal protector??? any suggestions???

[fishindude]

Hi boat doc.
I am rebuilding my 2 barrel mercarb. The mercruiser carb rebuild kit comes with two check balls. One is heavy steel and the other is lighter. Can you tell me where the check balls go. When I disassembled then carb I found one but the other ball was just laying on the bench and don't know where it came from. I have the 4cc accelerator pump and it doesn't look like a check ball goes below it like older stylen accel pumps.
Thanks for any help.

[Boat Doc']

The solutions you mentioned will work. However I would upgrade to LED lights. They are available as a direct replacement for most applications.

[Boat Doc']

The steel one goes under the spring and retainer. The other one is not used in your application.

[jimsbuddy]

Ok doc thanks for the feedback, im teetering on getting new trailer, due to this one has rollers and most are all worn out, and a guide told me in costco parking lot about how rollers cause dimpels in the aluminum shell.... the runners are much easier on a boat bottom. I like the ease of loading my buddys boat on runners as well... just drive right up. Ill look into the leds you speak of. I assume Sevens marine carries them??? or would joes, Harveys and the likes???? I dont exaclty live close to portland... :dance:

[Boat Doc']

Most places you mentioned carry them, give us a call and we can ship them to you.

[FastActionRodTip]

Boat Doc', I have a new 90 Evinrude E-TEC and am ready to winterize it after it's first season. The manual says it requires no service or maintenance for 300 hours or three years. I'm used to changing lower unit gear oil annually. Do you think I'd be OK following their recommended interval, afterall, it's under warranty thru that period. Also, I have about a gallon of leftover Yamaha gear lube, is that ok to use, or should I stick with the OEM stuff the manual says to use? thanks

[Boat Doc']

It wouldn't hurt to change it more often. While it is in the warranty period you should use the OEM recommended oil in case you have a failure and they say it was the wrong oil. Make sure you also change the seals on the fill and drain screw.

[FastActionRodTip]

thanks...good advice as usual1

[foxer]

Boat doc..I have a 20ft aluminum w/ offshore bracket. If I slowly increase the throttle, just before planing, I get water shooting up the sides of the main motor. Not a huge amount, but enough to get the motor wet. Then, when Im on plane, it stops. Is this a motor height thing? I noticed that there is one more hole left (to drop height)

[Boat Doc']

It is a water flow issue to the motor. If it doesn't ventilate in tight turns or on acceleration you could raise the engine up, not down until the spray goes away and still doesn't ventilate. Or add a couple diverters to the bracket to prevent the water from spraying. As long as water is not entering the cowl or the boat it shouldn't cause any problems, and is not uncommon for the application.

[jimsbuddy]

yea boat doc, i noticed when out fishing yesterday in buddys boat we were jamming up and down the river looking for them stupid fish.... at times of wide open runs I noticed the V of water spray around them motor... my boat I dont notice that big spray so much... what causes this... motor/ prop height??? its a big Suzuki 75hp 2 storke outboard

[Boat Doc']

It's caused by motor height, the further from the transom the motor is the more you see it. The general rule of thumb is for each foot of set back you raise the motor 1 inch. You need to keep the prop in clean water. In doing so it's not uncommon to see some spray. In most situations you can utilize the trim to eliminate the spray once on plane.

[jimsbuddy]

thanks doc

[1pump]

Hey Doc-

I'll try to make this short, but this is a weird problem.
I have an '87 Merc 25M that I bought new from Stevens. It has the WMC carb.
It's been trouble-free until last year when it started bogging badly when accelerating from an idle. I figured it was time for a carb rebuild, so I put a kit in it. Same problem- it won't go in forward gear, but it revs fine in neutral or reverse. After a while it acts like it "clears up". It's like somebody threw a switch and it runs fine. I found a bad check valve in the primer bulb, and after I replaced that it ran great all summer. Then all of a sudden last month it started the same old crap again. Starts OK, but won't hardly rev above idle speed unless it's in neutral or reverse. If I give it some time it'll usually "snap out of it". Once it clears up, it's fine the rest of the day.
I've pulled the fuel tank pickup, switched fuel, changed plugs, adjusted the idle mixture, adjusted the idle speed and the idle wire, cleaned the fuel filter, adjusted the linkage a dozen times, tested the coils, etc etc. I'm going nuckin' futs!! :help:
I haven't checked the timing or the compression yet, but that's next. The reeds looked OK when I had the carb off.
So.......air leak? :shrug: Dashpot? :shrug: Timing trigger? :shrug: Stator? Switch box? :shrug:
My Merc has always been the one thing I could always count on. My cars and my house might fall apart, but my Merc was always ready for whatever I threw at it for the last 18 years. That's why this really stresses me out. :bigshock:
Sorry about the long story, but it's kinda tough to describe. Any help would definitely be appreciated. :cheers:

[Boat Doc']

If it clears up as if somebody turned on a switch it's probably a switch box. Make sure compression is good, check all electrical connections and make sure lanyard switch and stop switch function correctly before you spend the bucks.

[1pump]

Ok, Doc, I checked the compression and it was an even 140 on both holes. While I was running the compression test I noticed that the #2 plug wasn't firing. I checked the coils again, they were OK, and just to make sure I reversed the leads from the switch box to the coils. Sure enough, #2 fired, and #1 was dead. I checked and cleaned all the connections and tested the trigger and stator. The trigger was fine, and the stator was just barely out of range, but I suspect that was because I was working in an unheated shop. The Merc book says the resistance drops a little with the temperature.
So I guess it's the switch box. Is there a way to test it? I just don't want to cough up $180 for a new one and still have a problem.
Thanks for your help, bro. :applause:

[Boat Doc']

With what you have done you isolated the problem to the switch box. Replace it.

[StickFish]

Question for you on Yamaha motors and the hose flush ports. I know you are not supposed to run the motor with the hose attached to the flush port, but will the water from the flush port also flush the impeller and lower motor water pump parts or only the block?

Thanks for reading

[Boat Doc']

It will run down into all areas.

[jimsbuddy]

Question for you on Yamaha motors and the hose flush ports. I know you are not supposed to run the motor with the hose attached to the flush port,



ummm ive a 50hp yamaha and i was told that I should attach a hose with the adapter suction cup thingy to the water intake at the bottom of the unit when starting the motor outside of water... is this wrong??? why shouldnt we flush or pump water into the engine when its running???

[Boat Doc']

Some motors have a hose adapter built into the cowling, what you are doing is fine.

[bluebackbil]

Do you know the differences between the mercury saltwater and standard outboard motors?

[Boat Doc']

As I remember it is a stainless steering tube and different color graphics on the top cowl

[NWRedside]

Hey boat doc,
I've got a yr 2000 150hp yamaha v max pump that I'm concerned isn't getting enough oil. I've only had the motor for about 10 hours of run time but in that time my oil resevior has only gone down by about 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch. Is there a way that I can test the oil pump and or mixture from home to make sure it's working properly?
thanks!

[Boat Doc']

There is an output test, hook up a premixed fuel supply, remove the oil output hose. Remove the oil pump link rod and allow the lever to rotate till it stops. Run the engine at idle. You should see .7 ozs for EFI and .11 for carb model in 3 minutes run time from the output hose.

[Shaker-King]

Boat Doc,

Also posted on boat and motor forum.

I was wanting to install a brake washout kit and need to remove the drums. The trailer is a Rogue dual axle with brakes on the front axle. The components are Trailer Buddy.

Is there a secret to removing the drums? I have soaked with Liquid Wrench, backed off the pads with the adjuster, pounded, and the drums on both sides seem very solid.

[Boat Doc']

Should slide right off if the nut is removed and the pads backed off. If they don't slide off try tapping on it carefully, the inner bearing could be stuck.

[Shaker-King]

Boat Doc,

I got the job done today. Until I understood that the bearings were all part of the drum I thought I could remove the drum without messing with the bearings. Once the nut was off it slid right off.

Thanks
SK

[danger]

BD,

How much is it for stevens to hook up a new 8 hp 4stroke kicker to the main tank on my predator...or is this something that is easy to do?

Thanks,
Dan

[Boat Doc']

You can easily do it yourself, plumb it to the water seperater or to a second pickup on the tank if it has one. If we do it expect to pay about $100.00.

[danger]

I haven't looked at the water seperator, but what would I use to plumb it there...is there a "y" that I can add or some other type of fitting.

Dan

[Boat Doc']

If you have a water seperater it has the ability to add fuel lines, look on the top for a arrow that points out, remove the plug add a hose barb, install the fuel line with the primer bulb pointing the correct direction and you're done.

[danger]

I'll do that, thanks for the help.

Dan

[Double G]

Boat Doc,
I hit a small floating log yesterday and bent one blade on my aluminum Honda 90hp 3 blade prop. Is it cost effective to send it to a prop shop for repair or should I buy a replacement? If repair, where do you suggest. I live in Eugene, OR.
thanks,

http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/bent_prop.jpg

[Boat Doc']

It's much cheaper to repair than replace.Check with a local dealer to see where to repair it down there. You could send it up here to either Ampro or Independent Marine Propeller.

[Phil Layer]

Hello BoatDoc,

I am trying to install an older TR-1 autopilot on my 1999 Merc 9.9 outboard. I need to remove the tilt tube from the motor and am wondering if I need a special tool to get to the nuts on the tilt tube as they are tucked under a piece of metal on the motor.

Thanks much for your advice.

[Boat Doc']

I didn't see any hidden nuts on the ones I looked, but if there is the other side is probably accessible. No special tools required.

[fish house]

Boat Doc
In preparing to replace spark plugs in a 1998 merc 6hp 2 stroke, I have a question. The NGK BP8H-N-10 has a small V instead of a flat surface on the top of the plug. So if the gap is .040 is that from the flat part or the bottom of the v surface

[Boat Doc']

.040 between the center electrode and the ground in a straight line.

[FastActionRodTip]

BD...I have an 05' 2 stroke Johnson and I run the newer recommended XD30 oil. Can I run say, their synthetic XD50 or XD100 DI 2 cycle oil at 50/1 and expect a significant reduction in pollutants? It doesn't smoke much on the XD30 but I do notice some discharge/unburnt oil in the weep drains...I realize it's an archaic disonaur design, but I'm all for reducing as much pollutants as possible. Maybe Amsoil? I don't mind spending the extra money. I'd have bought a 4s but this one being only 60lbs was too tempting to pass up. Thanks

[FastActionRodTip]

it's an 8hp carb...sorry

[Denali]

Doc,

I have an 18ft Super Vee, 175hp Sportjet center console. How do I find/order the window option for the center console. My buddy has one that goes up and down and I'd like to get the same but it does not show up on Steven's accessories list in the catalogue.

[Boat Doc']

A carburated 2 stroke by desighn discharges oil and fuel into the water, synthetic or biodegradable oils would lessen the enviromental impact.

[Boat Doc']

The ones that are available are hinged not sliding. Contact our parts dept at 1-800-225-7023 or your local dealer

[earlybird007]

Is there any reason to not use synthetic motor oils in our boats?.....someone mentioned that the film is not very thick and there might be a problem with not enough oil at start-up.
Any feeling on this subject boat doc?

[Boat Doc']

The manufacturers are starting to recommend synthetics now that they are formulated for marine applications. I would recommend there use as long as the oil being used is designed for marine applications.

[Streetwalker]

Boat doc.
I am having a new alum boat built (24' Formula Vee). It will have dual outboards on a bracket. I have chosen Merc 115 4 strokes. I have also insisted that I get a tach & hr meter for each motor which will be an add. I have noticed on Mercs website that the 115 4 strokes are not "smartcraft" compatible for guages, why is this when the 60 & 90 hp 4 strokes are? What tach set up would you recommend. Also there is not a counter rotator available in this motor. Those that I have asked on this say they have no problem w/o a counter rotator. The 115 4s look to be the best motor application as well as the best value, the 135's would be $4000 more & possibly added rigging cost if verado. What are your thoughts on this, & am I making the right choice??

[backlash442]

Boat Doc,

Looking at replacing the outdrive oil in my Merc Alpha One. I can see the top plug but for the life of me I can't find the bottom drain hole. Am I missing something? Thanks.

[Boat Doc']

plug should be on the front lower left side of the bullet. Some models have it in the bearing carrier. You need to remove the prop to access it.

[Boat Doc']

The ignition system on the 75 thru 115 doesn't support Smartcraft. Mercury offers about 6 different gauge faces, you can look at there web site to see what you prefer, if you don't specify anything we normally use the International II series. I think you have made the best choice for value, performance and economy.

[Hottamale1]

Boat Doc..

You replaced my lower unit last month on the 200 HP Merc (Willie Boat) w/ the HO unit.. So far, so good.

Question.. My 200 EFI smokes like a bad dog!! Especially at start up or in reverse. It's okay once the motor's been warmed up but man...the smoke is much worse than others in it's age class. Whatdya think? Too rich?? Needs a tune-up? Overall it runs great, always fires, and the plugs are clean..

What gives?

Scott

[Boat Doc']

On start up the fuel that puddled from shut down gets burned which along with the rich cold start mixture when cold can create quite the fog bank. The things to check would be TPI adjustment, thermostat operation, oil pump adjustment and look for split or broken bleed hoses. As for smoking in reverse the cup covers part of the exhaust and it chokes on its own exhaust. I would check what was described above. What you are describing is common and may not be much you can do about it.

[Streetwalker]

Boat Doc,
I notice that, the Merc 115 4 strokes run 25 amps & 315 watts from the alternator. w/ 115's & a charging harness from a 9.9 kicker, will this be enough to keep up the batteries w/ periodic runs of the big motors? I plan to run a 2.2 kw radar, lowrance LC X 110 plotter/FF, a TR-1 & 2 elec. downriggers. I could be running all these at once at times.

[Boat Doc']

Make sure you have a dual battery system and designate one for starting and one for accessories. It would be my opinion that you run one of the big motors when using the radar. This will keep up with the battery draw. When using the troller at trolling speeds with all accessories running the battery will eventually discharge to the point that the radar and fishfinder will quit working. You could monitor voltage with the voltmeter function of the fish finder, maybe the radar has it to. When the voltage gets to around 11 volts either increase troller rpm or start up the big motor to recharge. With the battery switch position to allow charging the accessories battery. You could also have a isolater which would eliminate the need for a switch.

[ArtB]

Is it possible to buy a gear lube pump to fill my 1999 Nissan 40C? The ones at GI Joes are either specific for OMC products or (Quicksilver) for Mercury - except Japanese made.

[Boat Doc']

Mercury offers an adapter part #883704A03 that adapts the standard pump to the nissan and other brands. Contact our parts dept if you would like to order it.

[Billnoy]

I have a 115hp Evinrude outboard with a pump on it and have noticed something that may not be right.At speed,there is water spraying out between the pump and the motor case on both sides.I checked the bolts that attach the pump to the motor and they are all tight.The water pump was replaced last august, and seems to be working ok(good stream of water coming out of the hole, and no overheating).
Maybe there is usually some water in there and exhaust pressure is forcing it out the sides?
Bill

[Boat Doc']

If it didn't do it before the water pump was replaced some models have a rubber seal that seals the exhaust that may not have been reinstalled. Or it may be that over time some corrosion has built up on the mating surfaces causing the water to spray. If you are concerned you could clean the surfaces and apply a thin bead of sealer to the mating surface. As long as it's tight it won't hurt anything.

[bobber_boy]

hello boat doc
I've got a hamilton 212 pump in my boat, and after about 12 trips the busings in the steering nozzle dry up, and cause the steering to become stiff. I use a heavy duty marine grease too. Is there a different type of bushing I could use or ? to prevent having to take the pump apart every 6 months? thanks!
BB

[Boat Doc']

In talking to the Hamilton supplier they recommend thorough flushing after salt water use. Great idea of zircs that somebody mentioned if there is room. Also grease them with good high pressure grease.

[Private-Aye-Fish]

Dear Boat Doc,

I have a 1998 Maxweld Ranger with a Volvo Jet Drive (Yes I did say Volvo Jet Drive). It is a closed cooling system with antifreeze and a resevoir. I have two questions. I have always had fresh water cooled I/O's and never had a closed system before and so it is all new to me.

1.) Can I run this out of the water without hurting anything. I want to cycle the oil and let it lubricate etc. I know an I/O w/o a closed system should not be run with out a water supply/hose set up. Do I need to figure a way to get water to the Jet or can I just let it idle in my shop while I mess around working on it?

2.) It has a heater but even when the engine temp is warmed up and you have run it 1/2 hour or more it blows ice cold air with out any trace of heat. Everything looks to be hooked up ducts etc. Plenty of anti freeze in system etc. Any ideas what I may be missing.

Thanks in advance for any ideas.

[Boat Doc']

Most jets have water lubricated bushings and should not be run out of the water. Make sure the heater is plumbed to the engine side of the heat exchanger. The problem is that or the engine is running cold or the engine pump can't circulate the water given excessive rise or distance. If the hoses are under the tray or higher you could try putting them on or under the floor. Also make sure the heater isn't plugged. You can feel the hoses and they should be hot all the way to the heater and back.

[Private-Aye-Fish]

Thanks I'll check out your ideas this weekend.
:yeahthat:

I found out that there are two screws on the pump. You open them both and add 10wt until it comes out the other. Put the screws back and that lubricates the bearings and allows you to idle the engine out of the water. :dance:

[bighugetrout]

Boat Doc,

I just recently purchased a used sled that has a lot of corrosion around the lower pump unit. Is this caused by old zincs? Thanks for your work here.

http://www.jensencreative.com/ifish/pump.jpg

[Buck50]

Boat Doc, we purchased a replacement fuel tank for our boat. It is made of a plastic type material. The instructions for installation said to use neoprene to block the tank in. And not to use rigid blocking. This they say allows for expansion/contraction. This all fine and dandy and makes sense. BUT I cannot locate neoprene in anything but sheets. Do you know where I could find blocks of neoprene (maybe 2X2 or larger) or have an alternative idea for holding the tank in place? It has no attachment points whatsoever...

[Boat Doc']

You need to add zincs, make sure they are in the water. As it is now the pump is the sacrificial anode. Check the wear ring and make sure it is in good shape also.

[Boat Doc']

The ones we see have spray foam in small area on each side with aluminum tabs at the corners with gunnel rubber for protection slid over them. There is a gap between the deck and the tank to allow for expansion.

[bighugetrout]

Check the wear ring and make sure it is in good shape also.



Could you elaborate a bit further. Thank you.

[bighugetrout]

The ones we see have spray foam in small area on each side with aluminum tabs at the corners with gunnel rubber for protection slid over them. There is a gap between the deck and the tank to allow for expansion.



Boat doc,

I'm replacing the floor with diamond plate and planned on pop riveting 3/4 angle aluminum for support. I noticed you mentioned about tank expansion and wondered if this could be a problem for me. You the man doc.

http://www.jensencreative.com/ifish/tank.jpg

[Boat Doc']

Chances are you don't have any anodes that are in the water or they are not functioning, so the pump and its component are serving as the sacrificial anode which is causing the pitting that you are seeing. The wear ring that the impeller sits in can serve as a sacrificial anode and should be inspected for pitting as should the impeller itself. Sometimes galvanic corrosion is mistaken for cavitation burns. To prevent the above from occuring you will need to add sacrificial anodes below the water line so the pump and engine components do not continue to be damaged and flush it thoroughly after saltwater use.

[24 on/ 48 off]

Boat Doc,

I bought a new Intruder from you guys last September and was advised at the time to run a oil/gas mixture in the tank for 10 hours on my 150 merc for a break-in period.

Unfortunately, I only put about 5 hours on the motor until the boat went into the garage for the winter. It will be coming out soon. I did stabilize the gas over the winter.

Question: Should I continue with five more hours, or perhaps longer due to it sitting so long?

--spud--:)

[Boat Doc']

Run it 5 more hours, it won't hurt to run it longer on pre mix but its not necessary.

[Smj]

Boat Doc...I have a '01 Smoker Craft Stealth 172 W/Merc 2-stroke 75 that I purchased new at Stevens. After using the high-idle on the throttle to start the engine, with muffs in the drive way, the button will not come back out all the way and allow the engine to go into gear, foreward OR reverse. I tried rocking the throttle handle back and fouth, pulled the button out and gave it a small shot of WD-40, and removed the handle itself. The piece the button pushes is only comming part way back out, I can see it still has about 3/8" to come out allowing it to shift in/out of gear. This happened a time or two when the boat was fairly new, but rocking the throttle handle a few times fixed it, I was figuring it was that the unit was tight and just needed to be "WORKED" in.

Could you: Give me an idea if this is something I can fix myself?
Tell me if this is a common problem with these units?
Give me a ball park figure on time and cost for repair/replacement of the unit at Stevens?

Your time on this forum is greatly appreciated, I don't feel right calling on the phone and taking the (Limited) time of people at Stevens knowing how busy they are.

THANK YOU!

Smj

[Boat Doc']

probably one of two things, shift and or throttle cable stiff and needs replaced, control binding and needs repair or replacement. Rough cost 200 for cables and 4-500 for control replacement. It could be done soon, we would provide you with a estimate once it was checked out.

[Smj]

Is this a repair that could be made without the boat and motor? I don't see that it would be a problem for me to remove the cables at the motor, remove the control and pull every thing out and bring it in. That would be saving me time and money, also saving you guys space on the lot. With a little guidance I belive I could reset the adjustment for throttle and shifting without too much problem. I do have quite a few tools in metric and standard and have done quite a bit of wrenching on cars and motorcycles in the past, before every thing was super computerized though.
I'll be calling for an appointment either way after getting your response.

Thanks Again!

Smj

[bighugetrout]

Boat Doc,

I've manage to break off the heads on a couple of bolts while trying to remove the pump shoe. All of the bolts are pretty tight due to corrision. What would you recommend I do at this point? Should I drill out the broken bolts? or take it in and let the professionals handle it. Thanks.

[Captain Starbuck]

Mr. Big huge trout,

I'm sure the boat doc is more experienced than I am at this, but I just had to tackle this problem last week. Here's what I did:

Broke off three of the six bolts that hold on the shoe. Hit them all with penetrating oil even though there was so much corrosion, it probably didn't matter. Removed shoe with broken bolts still in pump housing. Hit housing with torch with vise grips already on the bolt and ready to go (aluminum cools quickly). I was able to only remove one of the three with this technique. The other two required drilling, then an easy out/torch combo. When this didn't work, I ended up having to drill the bolt all the way through and having helicoils installed. Be carefull with the ez outs. If you break one off inside the steel bolt inside the aluminum housing, you can be in a tight spot. You may just opt to take it to a machine shop before it gets that far. It's cheaper that way, trust me.

I hope this helps.

[Captain Starbuck]

Big huge trout,

One more thing. When you put the bolts back in, make sure to apply anti-seize to the bolt threads. I use anti-seize or grease on every single piece of hardwear I get my hands on.

Have fun with it.

[Boat Doc']

It should be done as an assembly to ensure that everything works correctly.

[Boat Doc']

It will require lots of heat and possibly drilling them out. It you are not comfortable doing it you should definitly let the pros do it.

[GSD]

http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/taillight.JPG
Boat Doc',

The pictures are the tail light on my 1989 Alumaweld DB Trailer. The original plastic housings have started cracking where the wires enter
and I would like to replace the tail lights before they deteriorate any more. The name in the lens is TITE-LITE Ltd. - Model-46 Series. Measures about 4" diam.
Any chance these are still available? If not, is there a LED tail light unit available that will fit into the steel tube that houses the plastic tail lights?

Thanks in advance for your help.

William

[Vegetarian]

Hey Boat Doc,

I have a couple of questions that maybe you can help with. I have a 04 Boice Jet with an American Turbine sd-312 jet pump. I have the recommended grease to lube up the pump, but I never know how much grease to pump into the two grease zerts. Unlike a wheel bearing, where you can see when the grease starts coming out of the bearing, you can't see any grease come out when lubing the pump. How much grease should be added to the Thrust bearing and how much should be added to the bowl bearing?

My second question is: On the last 2 outings, I cannot get my TR-1 Gold to go into autopiolot. It stays in the standby mode. The throtle will increase and decrease, but the unit will not steer. Any ideas? Thanks for any help you can give.

[Boat Doc']

Nothing is available that I am aware of. We have converted a few to the new square or rectangular style lites. You need to cut off the old bracket and bolt on a new one.

[GSD]

Thanks Doc'

[IMBacklasher]

Boat Doc,
I have a 14' alumaweld that needs the flooring replaced. Do you have any ideas where I can get the materials i.e. wood,styrofoam and rivets to make that happen? Thanks

[Nalu]

GSD- If you don't have to have fully submersible tail lights, they are available in the new LED style online for around $30 apiece, or in the current style you have now for around $5 each. We don't end up backing our DB trailer in far enough to ever reach the lights, so standard is fine for us.

Waterproof grommeted round lights are available, as well as flanged. Just no 2 stud ones that I know of.

[GSD]

Thanks for the info Mike.

I don't dunk my lights either but get a lot of water spray off the road when driving to the coast, so I would prefer something that has the wires sealed like the originals.
I've been checking the LED tail lights you mentioned and will see if I can adapt them to the round metal tubes on my Alumaweld trailer.

Tight lines!

William

[Uncle Roman]

Hey Boat doc,

I have an old timey Merc 115 (We're talking early 1980's). Anyway it runs, well, like something motivated to go fast, fast. My question is, I lubed the grease fitting on the pump, and some greasy water started to drip from the grate. I am assuming I have a bad seal somewhere in there, and if you think I'm on the right track, is this something a guy who knows somebody that is mechanically inclined could fix themselves?

I really appreciate your time!! :cheers:

[Fish Mode]

Hey Boat Doc! thanks for all of the help you give us, we really would be stumped till death if it wasn't for you :yay:

I have a question: In my inboard engine the starboard drain plug's a little stuck...not good. I've tried peeling at it and used its designated wrench, no luck :sick:. I really don't want to bring this to those guys who'll charge me a couple hundreds for labor costs.

Do you have any idea how I can fix this problem w/o any need to go to anyone(except yourself)?

Here's a picture to show
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN0168.JPG

thank you thank you :bowdown:

David

[Boat Doc']

Try shopping around for some marine plywood. We probably have everything but the foam. Call our parts dept. 1-800-225-7023

[Boat Doc']

You could do it. Be careful of corroded bolts. If they feel like they are going to break try some heat or stop and have someone else do it.

[Boat Doc']

I would try heat and a pair of vise grips. If that doesn't work you will have to carefully drill and tap it.

[fishrepellor]

Hi Boat Doc.
I have a 1999 fisher avenger w/ a 75 hp mercury force 2 stroke that i bought from your store in Nov.But very please with the service from everyone there. More often than not, after sitting on anchor for >30 min. it has trouble starting back up. I try the choke but still won't start. I have to press the Advanced Throttle but and floor the accelerator. Is this Normal?
thanks,
Linh

[Fish Mode]

Thank You BOAT DOC! I just needed some expert advice
:bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:

[Boat Doc']

There is several things that can cause what you are desribing, While it is a pain to deal with it may not be easily cured and is probably fairly common. Things to check would be idle speed to low, fuel mixture adjustment to lean or rich, timing and throttle pickups out of adjustment and possibly debris in carbs. If all of the above are ok it may be necessary to advance the throttle until engine runs smooth before maneuvering.

[wheresmybobber!]

Dear Boat Doc, we have a 70's 120 volvo in our fiberform that we recently installed a water/fuel seperator. Now when we run for any amount of distance at full throttle the motor starves out of fuel. i can drop down to an idle for a couple minutes and then put it back to full throttle and its fine for another 10 minutes or so. we stayed with the same size fuel line which is 3/8 and we made sure the flow is in the right direction, also we have checked for kinks in the fuel lines and all looks well. Please help the big durby is sat.

[Boat Doc']

If the problem occured after the filter install I would remove it or replace the filter. If it's not related to the install try running it off another fuel source to isolate the problem to the engine or the boat. If it's the engine check fuel pump pressure or float level. If it's the boat check all hoses, connecters, fuel pickup and the check valve that the fuel line attaches to.

[wheresmybobber!]

is it legal to run inline fuel filters?

[Boat Doc']

Yes as long as they are Coast Guard approved- typically metal canister type.

[James in Idaho]

Boat doc:

What is "normal" compression on a 2000 Mercury 135 6 cylinder and how do you find top dead center? Thanks for all your help.

[Boat Doc']

normally run around 90 to 120 psi for a carb model. Look for them to be equal. TDC is found by instaling a dial indicater in #1 plug hole and rotating the flywheel clockwise until it stops moving.

[sfk]

Hi BoatDoc... thanks for the answer to the question about fusing a Minn Kota troller...

Now a new question... I have a second hand 25 hp 4 stroke Merc with remote iginition... only have one key and would like a second back up key... who makes additional keys?

[Eastside Dave]

Boat Doc,
I own a 2000 Honda 4 stroke 90 horse (just purchased it last summer with a nice pacific city dory attached).

the motor has 200 hours - How often do I need to change the fuel filter? How about lower unit lubrication?
Thanks,
Dave

[fishindude]

Hi boat doc,
mcm 165 165hp 4 cylinder. alpha one.
I removed the engine to repair camshaft coolant leak. Replaced the transom assembly and inner transom plate due to corrosion. Tried to align the engine with the special tool. The tool wont go into the coupler no matter how I adjust the front mount. I see the back of the motor is too low. Is there a way to properly align the flywheel housing to the engine block? I noticed there are some holes in the flywheel cover and engine block. Is there a special tool I need to use to align the cover to the block?. IF not then how do you I know if it is properly positioned. THere seems to be some movement allowed on the flywheel cover. If the cover is not the problem is there a way to shim up the back of the engine? It appears the engine is 1/8th inch too low.
Thanks for any help on this.

[Pickles]

Hey Boat doc: I have a 1998 2 stroke Mercury 8 hp outboard that I use for trolling. The motor works great at lower elevations. The problem I have is that when I use my kicker at higher elavations 4-6000 feet. What happens is after running the motor for a couple of hours, the engine starts to starve for fuel ( I have to pump the primer ball to keep it running). Once the engine cools down it will run fine for a couple of hours agian! This only happens at high elevations. I had the same problem with an older Johnson 6 hp as well. At first I thought the plugs were loading up from the elevation, but after checking the plugs, I realized this was not the case! Is there a fix for this? :help:

[Boat Doc']

If it's a Merc key we stock them. They will have a number and a letter stamped on them. For example 1C. If it's not a Merc key a locksmith should be able to copy it.

[Boat Doc']

I wouild change them every 100 hours or at the end of every season before the cold weather sets in.

[Boat Doc']

Make sure the fibre washers and spring washers are in place, also that the rear mounts are correct and properly installed. If it is still off by 1/8 inch I would guess the transom plate may not be correct.

[Boat Doc']

If this is happening when running just above an idle it would indicate that a jet needs to be enlarged. If it happens at high speed then it would be a fuel pump issue. If it happens at idle it may be an adjustment, debris in float bowl or fuel pump.

[fishindude]

Thanks for the info boat doc. I will double check the
washers. Is there an alignment proceedure on the flywheel
housing? There are holes in the housing and block. Just
curious if there is a tool or proceedure for setting up
the housing. Thanks again,

[Boat Doc']

The block has dowels that alighn the flywheel housing. No special tools required.

[baguba]

Boat Doc - please help. I can't get the driving lights to work on the trailer (yes, i relaced the bulbs). New to me boat, and I assume they worked before. I noticed the ground had a near severed wire at the plug so I decided to replace. The original plug was 4 panel flat but it had two wires going into the one panel(green/brown and yellow/brown). I replaced with the standard 4 panel splicing together exactly like the previous plug (wired the green/brown and yellw/brown to the brown).
From this, I attach to my seven pole adapter. Brake lights, flashers, turning signals all work perfect - just can't get the driving light.
Any ideas?????

[Boat Doc']

I would check the truck end and make sure you have voltage to the correct taillight connection, if not rewire the plug to match or check the fuse for that circuit. Another possibility is if it's a foreign truck it may require an adapter for the lites to work correctly.

[baguba]

Thanks,

I will try those ideas. Not a foreign truck.

[Coho Kid]

Hey Boat Doc, I have a 1996 Black Max 150 hp Merc. When I ran it in the river today the water coming out the little weep hole was very hot, and a lot of exhaust steam came out the small exhaust hole above the water line. Is this normal for this motor? The temp. gauge never got into the hot area, but the little stream of water was very hot, and that bothered me. We thank you for all your help.

[easymoney]

Boatdoc,
I own a 1987 Midjet with a Rotax 637 engine, seems to run very good. Midjet is no longer in business, but I would like to know where to get repair info or parts? Or documentation? Any help would be appreciated...
John

[Boat Doc']

I would say it's normal, but make sure you replace the water pump every couple years. If it was overheating the gauge would read hot and the warning horn would sound.

[Boat Doc']

I have no idea, try a web search? Anybody else?

[HntnFsh]

There are several places online to order parts.Deer Island salvage can also get them.
You might do a search on Bombardier.They are the manufacturer I believe.Out of Australia too I think.
I may be able to get a little more info.

[cully]

Boat Doc'

I'm having problems with my 74#minn kota rip tide.

When I turn it on, sometimes i get power, sometimes not. If I turn it off and on a few times in a row...I usuall get power again....until I turn it off...Then the problem repeats!

I thought the problem might have been a bad / worn connection under the shrik wrap and solder job i did a year or so ago, so I redid that. I added a quick disconnect in the process. I still have the same problem.

I have run a ground a few times lately while crabbing and was wondering if sand may be impacted in the prop area? I'd like to remove the prop and clean inside but can't figure out how to remove it. It seems the prop is a little stiff in turning so that's why I thought I might give the cleaning a go. Bad Idea? If not, how do I remove the prop?

Any other idea on what may be the problem would help greatly. Bad or worn out switch?

thanks for your help,

cully

[Boat Doc']

Ollie Damons is the local service center for them. They would be able to give you much better info than I could.

[pearl]

Boat Doc,

21' North River Scout

Put my boat in my moorage a couple of weeks ago and noticed that after a few days I had quite a bit of water in the hull. Pumped it out and low and behold a few days later it's right back in there.

heres my check list....

Thought maybe my wash down system had froze over the winter and cracked the plastic through hull intake. Took it all apart today and couldn't find any cracks. Tightened everything back up and reinstalled.

Pulled my rear floorboards and filled the hull with water past my chine level and let it sit for 90 minutes. Cant find any water leaking out.

My plugs are tight but can they go bad and leak? probably buy a couple of new ones in the A.M.

Any other ideas in what I might look for????

I'll drop it back in the river tomorrow and see if the fixes I did worked put I'm perplexed on this one.

[lostpuppy]

Boat Doc,

My boat has a 72 vovlo 4cyc. When I give it full throttle, it seams to bog down and only will do about 12 MPH. Where should I start to look. This is a new to me boat. Thanks.

[Boat Doc']

Look carefully at any thing that goes thru the hull. Steering cables, shift cables, transducer cables, motor mounting bolts etc. If this is a jet look at the intake gasket and front bearing. Good luck.

[Boat Doc']

If its mechanically sound I would check plugs, points and timing. If they are in good condition and set to the correct specs I would guess the carbs need to be gone thru.

[Got Fish?]

Hey boat dock...

Just bought a new to me 96 200 hp merc jet. The water impeller was replaced and it doesn't seem to be expelling water like I think it should at idle, it just kinda dribbles out. At speed its fine and does not run hot at anytime and I've been watching it very closely. A buddie of mine said new impellers may do that for a little bit at the start while they break in but that sounds fishy...

[Captain Starbuck]

Hey Got Fish,

I have the exact same engine as you '96 200/140 mercjet. I just bought the boat a few months ago and decided to replace the water pump impeller. Before I replaced it, it had the exact same symptoms you describe. After I replaced it, it had the exact same symptoms you describe, just slightly more energetic. Even though the old water pump was about 85%worn out, it didn't change the flow much. I'm wondering if this engine has a thermostat? The first time I put it in the river, it was well below freezing. No water came out of the telltale. I actually shut down thinking something was frozen up. Well, it could have been frozen, but it still acts about the same.

Boat doc?

[Boat Doc']

What you are seeing is normal, so long as no alarms sound you should be fine.

[cosmo]

Boat Doc,
Went to the river with a buddy and his '94 Yamaha 90 wouldn't start. He thought his batteries were bad, but all the electronics work and the main still wouldn't start even with a jump. When I got to looking at it his ground wire (coming out from under cowling and attached to motor frame) was smoking on the 90hp when the juice was applied. Wire looks like he's been toasting it for a while. Is that an easy one to trace back and replace?
Thank you

[Boat Doc']

Should be easy, look for loose or corroded battery cables at both ends. Or to small of gauge for the application.

[reelfine]

What is the size of the impeller nut (nut-holding-on-impeller) on a 2005 Yamaha F115 Outboard Jet? I *think* its 30mm, but I wanted to make sure before I go buy a crescent wrench...

[Boat Doc']

Size ia 1 1/8 inch

[wannacatchem]

I'm another of those thats going to rip out the foam in my boat(if it has any - haven't looked yet)and move my fuel tank forward so the boat sit a little more level while anchored. I'm curious about how far I can move it. If there is no foam, I still want to move my tank forward. Is there any rule of thumb on this? I'm thinking of centering it in the center of the boat. I'm not sure how big a move this would be (as I said, I haven't looked) I sure don't want to go to all this trouble and have it too far forward.

Any thoughts on this?

19" Alumaweld Stryker Sterndrive(purchased from Stevens in 2003). 38 gallon tank.

[Boat Doc']

Never had anyone try it, I think when you get the floor up there will be a bulkhead that will prevent you from moving it very far without modification. Even if you could move it to the front of the boat I don't think it would make a significant change in static boat attitude due to the relative shortness of the boat and the weight of the engine and drive. My .02 cents anyway.

[Livin the Dream]

Boat Doc,
I may have to bring her in but I thought I would give this a shot.

I have a 2002 Merc 240SJ
I was out yesterday and my warning buzzer began sounding four beeps, I shut it down and lifted the doghouse and there was 2 stroke oil in the bilge, upon further inspection it appeared that it was coming from what looks like a vent hose? Its a hose that comes off of the small resivoir on the motor, There is a T and one side goes to the motor and the other to this fitting with nothing attached, I assume a vent,or maybe it is supposed to be connected to something?
Anybody got any ideas? Im looking for my manual this morning but its not where I thought it was.

Thanks!
AL

[24 on/ 48 off]

Hey Doc...

How big is the fuel tank on a 2005 20' outboard Intruder?

[Boat Doc']

The fitting has a check ball inside that is being held open by debris. Either clean it or replace it.

[Boat Doc']

48 gals. '06 is 60

[Livin the Dream]

Sweeeeet...thanks a lot!! I will check that fitting and replace if necessary.

Wow, this is awesome, Thanks again.

AL

[Iwish]

I recently bought a boat and would like to make a few changes. I cannot find any information about the boat anywhere online. I don't know if I am being thrown by the name on the side of the boat or if it was a small manufacturer that has gone out of business and well before the internet was as big as it is now. The boat is a 1986 and from there, just what the side of the boat says and it's the same as the title.

Any help on what this really is, if it isn't what it says, would be greatly appreciated. Here are 4 photos I have. I can get more if necessary. Thanks.

http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/NW_Challenger_1.jpg

http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/NW_Challenger_2.jpg

http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/NW_Challenger_3.jpg

http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/NW_Challenger_4.jpg

[Boat Doc']

Never heard of it, you might try contacting a boat dealer in the Yakima area.

[Stowaway]

Boat Doc,
I have a 1985 90hp VRO Evinrude. The control box alarm went off after about 3-5 minutes of sitting at idle. The alarm was constant. It has plenty of oil in the reservoir. The water coming out is cold. New lower unit gear lube.
Any idea as to what it maybe? Any recommendations on somewhere to take it to have it looked at?

Thanks in advance!!!
Steve

[Boat Doc']

Constant alarm would indicate overheat. Maybe thermostats? Evinrude service people I am aware of would be Staffs or Oregon City Marine. Not sure in your area.

[cfadam]

Boat Doc, you rock! I've been reading your older posts off and on for a couple weeks. It's hard to digest all of it at once!

Anyways, here are my questions, sorry to rattle on:
I have a 22 foot Alumaweld Intruder (2001) w/ a 130 HP 4 stroke Honda (also 2001.)

I would like to replace the pump with a prop, which I got along w/the purchase of the boat. Will I need a "Jack Plate" and if so, what kind and where can I find one?

Will all this be something I can do or will I need to take it into the shop? I'm pretty sure I can mount a jack plate (I have access to hoists) but I'm unsure of how difficult it will be to transfer the lower unit from a pump to a prop. Will all the linkages (for reverse, etc) be able to match up?

Also, what pitch prop would be best for my boat?

[Boat Doc']

Thanks for the compliment. However I may not make your day. You need to make up about 7 inches to allow the prop to function. There is no extension kits available at this time for Honda. The options are to buy the spacer, driveshaft and shift shaft from Honda which will probably set you back over 1K. Or cut the transom, if you cut the transom make sure you think about the loss of freeboard. If you extend it 5 inches you will probably need a stainless 15 inch prop which will normally not require dropping the engine another 2 inches. Hope this helps. Jack plate is not the answer in this application.

[bighugetrout]

Boat Doc' - I'm experiencing some porpoising on my 18' Willie Predator when I hit the higher rpms with just me in the boat. I would like to avoid adding weight to the front for balance. The 115/80 Jet Johnson outboard is a manual tilt so trimming while moving is not an option. Should I try bending the tabs at the bottom of transom down? Thanks.

[rags]

Boat Doc,
I have a Evinrude 150 hp with a pump on my SuperVee. It is a 1993 and I've had it tuned yearly. Yesterday I was running back from Davis bar to the St. Johns bridge and it started missing and jerking like crazy and then shut down. I had to run in with my kicker. Took forever. I thought I sucked something into the intake but after I got it on the trailer I didn't see anything. I launched again and it started right up. I ran it up and down the river and it ran fine. Any thoughts as to why it missed badly then died? It was running fine all day but I ran it hard and a long way back to the Willamette from the Columbia. Thanks, Rags

[JohnnyP]

Boat Doc;

I have an 'o3 Yamaha 25hp four stroke outboard with pull start that is not working. I just replaced the engine oil and filter and lower end gear oil after being stored all winter. I took it out Sunday and it started right up and I trolled with it for most of the day and it ran great. I went to use it tonight and it would not start, didn't even sound close to starting. I pulled/replaced the plugs and they were covered in gas. I also replaced the engine fuel filter but still no luck getting it started.

Any suggestions?

[Tacklebuster]

Hi Boat Doc,
I have an 04 Yami 150 four stroke and a T8. On my last trip, my main motor died and then my kicker followed suit. I found out later that I had gallons of water in my fuel cell. I have no clue how it got there cause the time before I had it out it ran great. I suspect vandalism. My question is on the motors. Will the water in the injectors do any damage to the 150? It died, started, died, started, and then stayed dead. How bout my T8? Can you just pump the tank until you get most of the water out and then add some heat or something to the tank to get the rest of the water out?

Thanks

[JohnnyP]

Boat Doc;

I have an 'o3 Yamaha 25hp four stroke outboard with pull start that is not working. I just replaced the engine oil and filter and lower end gear oil after being stored all winter. I took it out Sunday and it started right up and I trolled with it for most of the day and it ran great. I went to use it tonight and it would not start, didn't even sound close to starting. I pulled/replaced the plugs and they were covered in gas. I also replaced the engine fuel filter but still no luck getting it started.

Any suggestions?



Never mind, got it started. Pulled the plug and sprayed a little starting fluid in the holes and put the spark plugs back in and it fired right up. Thinking I probably had it flooded.

[Boat Doc']

Yes, bending the tab slightly will cure it.

[Boat Doc']

Sounds like a ignition component got hot and failed, Cooled off and works good. Those kind of problems can be tough to duplicate.

[Boat Doc']

Water in fuel, Stop switch pushed against contact or lanyard switch closed would be my first guesses.

[Boat Doc']

It would be my opinion if the water wasn't left in the injectors for several days- maybe longer they would be fine. As for removing the water I would drain the water out until you get fuel.If the fuel pickup is in a corner off the tank raise that side of the boat so you get as much of the water out as possible. Make sure you have a good water seperating filter and empty it frequently until you no longer see water. Do NOT use any kind of drier as that will allow a fuel water mix to go thru the system.

[rags]

Boat Doc,
You said it might be an ignition component getting hot then failed. How would I go about trying to find the problem if this is it. I know you said it can be hard to track down. Should I just replace the ignition? How expensive would that be? I put a new fuel/water seperater thinking that might be the problem. Haven't run it yet.

[Boat Doc']

You would have to duplicate the problem and test the individual components until you found the one that is bad. It would be very expensive to replace everything. I also could be wrong, however if it ran then died and wouldn't restart until it cooled down then ran fine it sounds electrical.

[rags]

I didn't try to restart it after it died until I got back to the dock which was about an hour. I guess I will take it back out on the river and try to run it for awhile and see if it does it again. I did test the gas from the fuel/water seperater and didn't see any water in it. Thank you for the feedback. I know Stevens doesn't work on Evinrudes so if needed I will take it back to Precision Marine.

[rags]

Well, I took it out to the Willamette and it is still missing and jerking. Took it over to R&M Marine in Tualatin and talked with Mike. Left it for him to check out. He is also guessing an ignition problem. Bummer. He can't get to it until next Tuesday and by then the Big C will be closed. Oh well. Hope the problem is found and fixed inexpensively.

[Tacklebuster]

Hi Boat Doc,
I got the motors running that water was in the fuel. The VST tank on my Yami 150 4 stroke was full of water. The motors fire up and run fine. I checked the oil and it looked like chocolate milk on the dip stick. I didn't have a Yami oil filter so I just drained the oil, drained the filter, put the old filter back on, and filled it up with oil. I have a filter on order. Will that be good enough to run on until I get a new filter? Anything else I need to do?

[sfk]

Hi Boat Doc, stopped by the Tigard facility for some trailer seals the other day... after driving all over Beaverton, it was really great to talk with someone that knew their business... don't know why I didn't think of you folks to begin with! Now, down to my questions:

I have a new to me 2002 or 2003 Merc 25 HP 4 stroke... I read through the manual and found recommendations on fluids, except for lower unit lube... what is recommended/required?

Also manual says ATF Tranny Fluid can be used insead of Quicksilver Power Trim & Steering fluid... is that really ok?

[DAB]

1992 2 CYL 2 Stroke Yamaha MDL--C40ELRQ

To set the stage for the question I was runing at full throttle, with everything purring like a kitten and all of a sudden the motor reved up like it was cavitating ( the water was as smooth as glass ) I pulled it back into Neut. motor resonded correctly, put back into forward and gave it the gas and it started out like it should then all of a sudden it reved up again like it was cavitating, put it back in neut and it responded corectly. Both times there was no other noise or vibration or anything other than it reved up as if it were cavitating this is the only time it has ever done this. There was a dock neer by so put it in forward with a little throttle and made it to the dock, tied up, turnd the motor off, tilted it up to see if I could see if there was anything obviously wrong and could not see a thing wrong. I droped it back into the water started it up and was going to go back and load up and go home but decided to see if it would do it again so headed back up stream punched it and not another problem at all, put about 10 more miles on it running full throttle and it never missed a beat ( not even a hint of reving up like it was cavitating ) for those ten miles. All the controll cables are working as they should.
to put it one way it was like a clutch was slipping bad at certian RPMs.
Anyone have a thought of what happened???????????????
DAB

[Boat Doc']

As long as the oil isn't diluted it should be ok, you may want to change it 1 more time.

[Boat Doc']

We use the hi performance gear lube, tranny fluid can be used in the power trim system only.

[Boat Doc']

If the motor wasn't trimmed to far up I would recommend replacing the hub in the prop.

[timinthegorge]

I'm thinking about going with synthetic oil for my 2003 Merc 90 O/I 2stroke. I've "heard" synthetic will make it easier to start. If so, what's your preference?

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks, Tim :bowdown:

[Reel Knotty]

Boat Doc, I have a 1997 Mercury 115 offshore (2 stroke). I ran the boat both yesterday and today. Yesterday the Tach seemed fine and at WOT read 5200 RPM(I believe the plack on the motor says max RPM 5250), as expected and 'normal'. Today at WOT the tach read 6200 RPM...??? The motor was running normally and did not sound like it was revving any higher...no cavitation, prop and hub seemed fine (did not take the prop off). This has not occured before. Where should I be looking to solve this one?

[Joe Schwab]

Boat doc, I have a 2000 Honda 40 HP. Taday when I loaded it I noticed a small black hose with a plastic connector attached to it sticking out of the lower unit about halfway down the housing. Motor ran fine all day and was peeing water on the way in as I always check that,

Does this carry the water from the pump to the indicator outlet? I could not find anything that it was supposed to be connected to.

[Boat Doc']

Check battery connections and connections on the tach, if you still have the problem it may be the tach or voltage regulater.

[Boat Doc']

It would be my opinion that synthetic will not make it start any easier, what it may do is smoke less and smell different. If it starts hard there is some other problem or incorrect starting procedure.

[Boat Doc']

It is probably for a speedometer, there is a pickup in the gearcase with a hose that goes to the powerhead.

[Joe Schwab]

Thanks a lot Boat Doc! That makes sense and makes me feel more comfortable.

[Reel Knotty]

Battery connections and connections to tach are all OK. Tight, no corrosion. How do I tell if it is the tach or voltage regulator?

Thank you for your help!

RK

[Tacklebuster]

Hi Boat Doc,
I had a big Racor fuel/water seperator put on my boat to go along with the regular smaller racor fuel/water seperator. I have a 05 150 Yami 4 stroke. Will my fuel pump be working to hard sucking fuel through both of these filters? I have put about 20 gallons of fuel through the filters thus far without any performance problems, I just don't want to over work the pump.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/Fuel_006.jpg

Thanks.

[Duckwheat]

Boat Doc.

I have a 1998 Merc 150. When I shift either forward or reverse i get a little grind of gears. Not much but a little.

Otherwise runs perfectly.

Duckwheat

[Bob Barthlow]

Doc, while fishing yesterday, all of a sudden my '04 Merc 8hp two stroke will not shift into reverse, the throttle shifts from forward to neutral and into reverse, the prop remains in neutral....the shift rod seems to be working when the throttle is shifted into reverse.

What are some easy things to look @ first? :help:

[Boat Doc']

Having two filters may cause excessive vacuum which may lean out the motor and create problems. I would recommend removing the smaller filter.

[Boat Doc']

Slight grinding is normal, you should shift it crisply into gear to minimize the grinding as much as possible.

[Boat Doc']

pull the prop shaft in and out, if there is more than about 3/16 movement the bearing carrier is loose or there is a problem with gears or propshaft.

[Boat Doc']

The quickest way is to plug in another tach. If that doesn't work then it is either the voltage regulater or terminal block depending on which charging system you have.

[Reel Knotty]

I don't have another tach...another way to tell? I do have Multi-meter.

[Williedrifter]

Boat Doc,

I have a 1991 25 hp, and a 1989 9.9 both manual starts Mercs. I Just bought the boat and the two motors sat unrun for over two years. Both motors run flawlessly after initial starting. The problem is both are incredibly tough to start after storage, (boat is run weekly and I don't run the motors out of fuel I use Stabill). I belive the trouble is with the prime on both. I don't think the pull out prime is moving the blue deal on the carb when activated, any ideas to lossen the primer? It only looks like four screws but what parts do i need? Thanks Jay

[Boat Doc']

The blue deal has to move, if it is stuck it needs to be removed and cleaned or replaced. If you remove the drain plug on the bottom be very careful not to lose the small check ball and spring.

[Wreckless]

Boat Doc -

I posted this on the board, but I thought I'd ask.

I recently had the lower jet unit on my '85 150 Yamaha worked on. Yesterday while on another unsuccessful Springer trip, my wife noticed water flowing out of the area where the lower unit attaches. Basically there is water coming out of about 5 spots around the lower unit right on the seam where it turns from the red lower unit to Yamamha blue. Water is also coming out of a 1/4" dia. hole in the front of the housing right above where the lower unit attaches. It looks like a ground wire or something goes through the hole The boat performs flawlessly, the water pump seems to be working perfectly as the water flow indicator (P-tube) is flowing strong. The flow of water stays basically the same no matter what the throttle setting (maybe a bit more water flowing at a higher throttle). Is this just "extra" water from a new water pump or should there be a gasket there, that someone forgot to install?

Thanks, Dennis

[Boat Doc']

If it didn't do it before I would suspect that a fastener is loose or missing. There is no gasket between the pump and engine so some leakage is normal. Best advice would be to remove the pump and look everything over.

[FrogPond]

Boat Doc-
Can a 20" shaft 1996 Mercury 50 4 Stroke be fitted with an "extension" or something to make it a 25" shaft? If so, is this a costly modification?

thanks

[Scott B]

Well Ok Boat Doc, I'll give you a try. I bought my 97 Stryker new from Stevens Marine there and have never had an issuse. I have a 75 HP Force on it and it has done something very strange. I had run the boat for a good 20 mins at full throttle and got to the fishing hole and started trolling with the kicker. Started up the big motor to head home seemed to run fine until I put the handle down and got the revs, but no go. I haen't had a chance to really diagnose it yet. I did put it in gear and it seemed to hold against compression. Good/ Bad? Any ideas to get started with. Shear pin? Not sure where to start, Can you give an idea or three?? Thanks
Scott

[Mr_sturgeon]

I have an 82 volvo penta 350, When I go to start it, it will click sometimes and sometimes it will do it several times, has been doin it for awhile but has gotten worse recently, my quess was the starter silenoid but wanted to ask before I forked out the money
thanks for any help
Ken

[Boat Doc']

Yes it can, parts are 395.00 another 100.00 for labor if we do it.

[Boat Doc']

Problems could be- motor trimmed up to high, something wrapped on prop blades, or spun hub in prop. If it's the prop a prop shop can install a new hub.

[Boat Doc']

It is the solonoid, there may be two, one on the starter the other usually on a manifold. Make sure you replace the right one.

[Scott B]

Thanks for the info. I know it wasn't that I was trimmed to high. That thought had crossed my mind. I will look into that thanks again. Scott

[Leader shy]

Boat Doc, I have corrosion on top of my tank under my floor board. Just a few pits , can this be fixed or covered? I suppose its from salt :hoboy:.Can I stop this stuff from spreading? Thank You Mike

[chromerdome]

I have a 2004 25horse bigfoot that I have had to replace the fuel pump on 4/2/05. I seem to be having the same problems with this new fuel pump. My question is do you know what the warranty is on this part? Could this new part be defective? Is this a common problem with a four stroke motor? Any solutions to my problem?

Team Chrome Militia out.

[Bob Barthlow]

pull the prop shaft in and out, if there is more than about 3/16 movement the bearing carrier is loose or there is a problem with gears or propshaft.



Problem solved....bought a new '06 Merc 9.9 Four Stroke from Steven's Marine on Wednesday.....run's sweeet, and catches fish! :cheers:

[stevo]

Boat Doc'
I have a '92 Suzuki DT8 kicker, 2 stroke. Anyways, motor runs OK, starts within 2-3 pulls, idles very low etc. The issue is that after running at trolling/back-trolling speed for some time, random, it just dies, and refuses to restart. It will remain 'dead' like this for some time pull as I might, then will start like nothing happend and be ready to run several hours again. Oh yeah, felt the cylinder head, it is nice and cool, impeller new last summer, gets plenty of H20. Plugs look good.
I am thinking electrical, any advice where & how to start troubleshooting?
Thanks

[Boat Doc']

The pits are probably caused by standing water turning acidic. You can eliminate the source of the water or make cleaning the tank part of normal maintenance. You could put epoxy on the existing pits but you are not fixing the problem.

[Boat Doc']

Parts that are purchased carry a 1 year warranty. Parts replaced under warranty are covered by the remainder of the engine warranty. If the pump meets vacuum and pressure specs then there is another problem. Hope this answers your questions.

[Boat Doc']

I agree it sounds electrical, the only way to troubleshoot it is to check the components when it dies. You will need a manual and ohm meter.

[Tinman]

Boat Doc:

I have a 1996 Johson 88 hp. How much redundancy is in the ignition system? Are there separate coils and electronic ignition modules? Are there items that could be a single-point failure for all 4 cylinders? Does each cylinder bank have its own independent ignition system? Thanks

[Boat Doc']

Single point failure items are ignition switch, lanyard switch, stator, switch box. Coils and timer base usually affects no more than 2 cylinders.

[Tinman]

Thanks Boat Doc, that is just what I needed

[Chinooked]

Boat Doc:
I have a 1986 7.5 longshaft merc that the impeller has gone out on. I removed the lower unit and replaced the impeller. My question to you is how do you line up the water pipe(copper) and the drive shaft into the small holes when trying to put it back together? I also noticed when I opened the lower unit a small amount of water came out and looked to be mixed with the gear oil and inside the whole shaft length. Is this normal? The only thing that looked bad was the impeller itself and the sleeve that fits on the lower end of the copper tubing was split 3/4 the was down. The replacement of that piece was a plastic sleeve, the one on the motor looked more like rubber tubing. Sorry for the long winded question, I have never gotten into a lower unit. It all seemed pretty easy until putting it back together :whazzup:. Thank you for any helpful information.
Rich

[Boat Doc']

The plastic sleeve is a guide. It goes into the upper housing. As you slide the gearcase up make sure you hold the surfaces parallel and watch the water tube go into the guide. The driveshaft will align itself, you will need to rotate the prop to line up the driveshaft splines. The milky oil is normal in the exhaust cavity.

[Chinooked]

Boat Doc thank you very much. It took me a second to understand but it went together smoothly. Time to take it to the river :dance:.
Thanks a ton
Rich

[Chrome Bumper]

Hit a submerged piling. Was going not fast and not slow and wham. Now engine runs rough, won't idle, acts like when the spark advance slows down it want to quit.

2001 honda 9.9, maybe sheared the fly wheel key or the belt jumped a cog or two?
prop looks ok, turns ok

[Boat Doc']

I would look at the belt first since it's the easiest however my money goes to the flywheel key.

[doryfisherman]

I NEED HELP COULD YOU PLEASE TELL ME THE POINT GAP AND DWELL FOR A 4 CYL OMC 140 I THINK ITS A MID 70S I HAVE BEEN TOLD THE GAP IS 18 DOES THAT SOUND RIGHT THANK YOU
DORYFISHERMAN@AOL

[jetsled1]

Boat Doc,

I have a 115 merc on a 18' 2002 Intruder I just removed the jet and installed a lower unit. the prop that came with the lower unit is a mec part # 48-77346A45 I believe that it is a 13" x 19P. the boat runs great but I am either hitting the rev limiter or the prop is cavating at high speed whitch is 40 mph by gps. I don't have a tach installed yet my question is is there a inexpensive way to check the rpm's without installing a tach.

[Hawgs n Harleys]

Hi Boat Doc, I have a 99' 150 Merc XR6. The cap on the oil tank under the engine cover was leaking. I tightened it and it cracked around the top. I purchased a new cap and installed it. The last 2 times I started the motor I got a low oil warning buzzer and had to add oil to the tank on the engine. The last time I started it was on a water hose and ran for a very short amount of time. The motor was trimmed up and set for 4 days. Today I removed the motor cover to check it and the oil level was very low.
Is there a way to reprime the system or do you think I may have an additional problem? I'm guessing the oil bled off back to the main tank, cause I dont see any leakage.
Thanks- Steve

[Chrome Bumper]

(Re 9.9 honda 1999 won't idle)The cam, crank and TDC all seem to line up OK. So I think the carb is fouled, since the plugs are indicating early spark or lean burn. I torn the carb down and tried to clean it, but the problem persists. It runs on choke. Geez are there ever some tiny passages in the carb. Who in town has a good stock of Honda 9.9 parts. knowledge and time to talk? I doubt it is the spark module not retarding at idle. I worked on it while afloat and only dropped one part overboard. Dumb Japanese engines aren't built with any extra parts, geez. (a breather hose)
Since the 9.9 and 15 are the same block I am tempted to use a 15 HP carb..

Thanks for being an asset to the community.

[bad habit]

i need a diagnosis on my 1997johnson slp outboard,,i have a oil leak coming out of the prop,,it is trough the prop exhaust if that helps,,also ive got oil gas mix leaking out of this flat black square box that is directly connected to my carbs,,is that a overactive oil pump??

[Boat Doc']

yes, dwell 31-34

[Boat Doc']

You could try to borrow one from someone. Some timing lites have a tach function.

[Boat Doc']

The system works by pressurizing the tank in the boat which forces oil to the tank on the engine. If you loosen the engine cap it should slowly fill the reservoir. If it doesn't make sure the large reservoir caps are tight and the hoses are not split or kinked. Also remove the pickup and check the screen on the end for being clogged.

[Boat Doc']

If it runs with the choke part way out it's either an air leak or plugged carb. Chances are the carb needs thoroughly cleaned. You should be able to do it with a peice of wire, aerosol carb cleaner and compressed air. You probably won't need any parts.

[Boat Doc']

If it runs well I wouldn't be concerned. The oil in the air box would be from tilting the engine up and having fuel/oil drain from the float bowls. You also have unburned fuel/oil going out the prop. If it runs bad then it would be a sign of rich running, sticking float etc.

[Chrome Bumper]

99 Honda 9.9. Cleaned the carb as described and now runs good again. THANKS!! Guess having it crumb out when bumping a pile was pretty much coincidence.

[Rimshot]

Boat Doc' - What are your thoughts on Seafoam? I kept hearing about how great it is so I tried it in my '95 Chevy with 170k. I did notice a small improvement(seemed a little more snappy) but nothing huge. It did blow out a TON of smoke, which I'm told is the dissolved carbon burning off. If that's the case then that is a good thing. Anyway, how do you feel about it for outboards? I have a '99 200 Merc and it has some hours on it. Would it be a good thing? I'm a little hesitant because big outboards are so sensative and tempermental to begin with. I'd hate to screw something up. What is your advice? Thanks.

[Boat Doc']

Keeping the combustion chamber clean is a good idea, In my opinion todays fuels have the necessary additives to perform the same function. Your outboard runs at a much higher load than a auto so it will keep itself clean. If you are experiencing carbon buildup the cause should be determined such as rich running, over oiling, poor quality fuel or oil etc. Then remove the carbon chemically or physically.

[sakana49]

Hey doc, I got a 8hp classic Honda. Cooling flow is about a pint a minute at idle. It will start right up when cold, but when warm it refuses to start again if I turn it off. Any ideas here???

[Boat Doc']

What do you have to do to restart? It may be lean which would make it start with the choke out or it may be rich which would require advancing throttle to run. It could be losing spark also.

[Rimshot]

Boat Doc' - I have a '99 200hp Merc. When I start it up for the first time after sitting a while there is LOTS of blue smoke. Only for a few seconds, but enough to make a nice blue cloud. It also wants to die right off and usually takes 2 times to get it running. Once running it idles a little rough (not bad) but runs/drives great. No power problems at all. I bought the boat from Stevens last Aug and the compression on all 6 was 160 (if I remember right).

Is this something I should be concerned about? I don't remember my 50hp '01 Merc smoking at start-up that much. Of course it was a smaller motor too. I do remember it smoking a little. I also remember it being cold blooded even when it was new. Maybe I'm not going through the correct start-up proceedure? Could you list that and anything else you think might be a problem? Thanks a bunch :cheers:

[Boat Doc']

The smoking is caused by fuel that puddles in the intake and crankcase, nothjing you can do about it. To start it cold squeeze the bulb till hard, turn key to run position and push in and hold for 10 seconds. While still holding key in turn to start position until it runs. Keep key in until engine starts to load up. When proper procedure is used a cold engine can start in about 5 revolutions.

[Rimshot]

Thanks for the info. I haven't been holding the key in for 10 secs or after it has fired. I basically just turn it to run, push the key in, and crank until it starts. Once it starts I let go. I guess I haven't been doing it correctly and that would explain the hard starts. Thanks again for the info, I'll try it next time out.

[sakana49]

It doesn't restart. I have to let it cool down completely. Checking the spark is my next job. I will check the carb and spark and get back to you. Tx for the advice.

[cheeseburger]

Boat Doc, I have a 2004 19ft stryker with a 115 merc opti and a 9.9 Kicker. Last summer someone stoled gas out of my tank by unhooking the kicker line and pumping out gas. They also went under the back area and did who knows what trying to find a way to get gas out. After using the boat i noticed the smell of gas. I noticed that it looked like gas was leaking out of the kicker line where it connects to the motor. I replaced that part. I took the boat out the other day and still noticed the smell of gas but could not see where any was leaking from the connection to the trolling motor. Previous i checked all the lines under the area where the gas lines are and could not find any leaks.
After getting done fishing yesterday i pulled the plug out of the boat, and in the little bit of water the came out, you could smell gas. Its not a big leak but enough to smell. I cant afford 90 an hour to take it in..
Any help on what to look for would really help. Thanks very much!! :shrug:

[Boat Doc']

Remove the deck plate and look for fuel stains, tighten sender screws as necessary. Look where the fuel and vent lines attach to the tank and tighten as necessary. If it has a water seperating fuel filter check all hoses and fittings for leakage. Make sure to rinse the bilge out thoroughly. If you are still seeing fuel in the bilge you should remove the floorboards and carefully inspect the tank and all hoses. You may need to pressurize the system and look for leaks.

[Tacklebuster]

Hi Boat Doc,
While replacing a faulty gas cap, I had a screw fall into the filler neck and into the tank :hoboy: It is a large fuel cell. Do I need to be concerned or will it be ok to run?

Thanks.

[cheeseburger]

Thank you very much boat doc...i will look into that, ill go through the whole system...your a great help!

[Boat Doc']

You should pull the pickup tube to make sure it has a screen on the end, most do. If so it won't be a issue.

[feelthefish10]

boat doc,

i have a 92 force 40 hp 2 stroke engine it turns over has spark and seems to be getting gas but it just doesnt kick over. have cleaned the carb and fuel pump. any ideas on what it could be.

[Boat Doc']

Possibly weak spark, it should jump a 1/4 inch gap. Don't overlook the spark plugs. Choke not working? Water in fuel? Low compression.

[feelthefish10]

choke is working,and it has good commpression i thought water in the fuel to. ill change the plugs and flush the gas and see what happens thanks

[feelthefish10]

i also have a 7.5 hop 4 stroke honda kicker. changed the plus in it brand new gas. i can get it to kick over but it will only run for about 30 seconds and then dies. i thought that it was the fuel line but the line doesnt seem to be leaking any air.

[Boat Doc']

If it stays running with the choke out it likely needs the carb thoroughly cleaned.

[feelthefish10]

it dies whether the choke is in or out.

[Tacklebuster]

Hi Boat Doc,
I have a 04 Yami T8. When I change the oil, I make sure and only put enough in her to make it read half on the dip stick. After a couple of trips, I notice the oil level is much higher and then it finally reaches to the top of the marks on the dipstick. I drain a few ounces out and start over. The oil smells like gas and I think I can see a small layer of gas on the top of the drained oil. Is this normal for the small kicker motors to actually make oil like that and if not, what should I do?

Thanks.

[Boat Doc']

They shouldn't make oil, causes could be cold running - either stuck thermostat or running hot box all the time which bypasses thermostat, carb adjusted to rich, leaking fuel pump or rings not seated.

[Tacklebuster]

What is the hot box? I have a hot hands thing that kicks out hot water all the time in the kicker bracket, is that what you mean?

[threetruck]

Hi boat doc,

I purchased a boat on a 2001 Tandem Axle EZ loader and I'm having problems with the surge brakes. The coupler is extrememly stiff - I've been told that it should move easily back and forth. It is so stiff that I practically have to beat on it to open it enough to get it on the ball. Any suggestions on where to start?

Thanks,

[FISHON67]

Hi Boat Doc,

I have a '05 Alumaweld 19ft. Stryker that has a water leak where the top door with glass seats onto the lower door in the center of my windshield. This has only been a problem when it rains really hard, but is a pain when you’re trying to get out of the rain under the top and it's still running in.

Do you know of any type of weather striping or molding that I can apply to the top door to divert the water down into the bow area instead of letting it run through the gaps at each end of the top door?

Thanks in advance!!

[Boat Doc']

Yes, if it runs unrestricted all the time the motor runs cold. To operate it correctly it needs a valve. With the valve closed allow engine to warm up, then open the valve to fill the tank. After the tank is full slow it down to a trickle or turn it off as needed.

[Boat Doc']

Lots of lube or grease, check for any bent components and replace as necessary.

[Boat Doc']

self adhesive weather strip or make somekind of cover.

[Tacklebuster]

Thank you Boat Doc.
What would you suggest as a valve? Anything come to mind I could get somewhere local and install myself? Could I just install something in the hose line about 2 inches or so above where the water streams out?

Thanks :applause:

[FISHON67]

self adhesive weather strip or make somekind of cover.



Thanks Doc!

[rags]

Boat Doc,
I have a 1993 150 Evinrude pump that runs pretty good. I did have the carbs rebuilt last month by R&M Marine in Tualatin as it was missing bad. Runs good now but still misses sometimes. Any ideas. On another question. I was thinking of upgrading this motor to a new Mercury. Looking at the XR6 and the Opti-Max 150 pump. Of course the Opti-Max is more money, almost 2k. In your opinion is the Opti-Max worth the extra money?

[Boat Doc']

We use a plated brass gate valve that accepts 3/8 fittings. Yes it could be installed anywhere in the line. This assumes the water comes off the block and not the telltale.

[Boat Doc']

Missing could be caused by rev limiter, water in fuel, bad coil or something as simple as a spark plug. The fuel savings, lack of emissions and additional warranty protection over time could justify the extra expense of the optimax, on the other hand its hard to beat the simplicity of a carburated motor. I personally would go with the Opti.