Stevens Marine Boat Doc'

[Boat Doc']

You can use the standard analog tach that they use on the other Mercs. If it doesn't function you unplug the grey wire by the wiring harness plugin and plug it into the other grey wire that has a plug in it.

[gofastlookcool]

Hi Boat Doc

Im starting to shop for a fishing boat. I am trying to determine the best powerplant to choose for a boat. I have already decided I want a prop drive, no jet. I am considering a stern drive in a 22' intruder, or possibly an outboard with an offshore bracket on a 20' custom weld or 22' Formula vee. I plan to fish the columbia, willamette, coastal bays and tidewaters with the occasional trip out the mouth of the jetty. Part of my negotiation with my wife was that she could ski behind it too (when she's going to do that and with who was never negotiatied :cool:)

I have searched all over the web for pros and cons and I have come up with a bunch of sales pitches. The following points of comparison are generally what I am looking for:

Vorado or Natural Asp Merc 4 stroke vs. 5.7 Vortec S/D

Reliabilty
Performance
Corrosion
Maintenance Cost

Most importantly, your overall opinion on this comparison based on years of looking at broken corroded money pits.

Thanks

[Boat Doc']

Here is my opinions. Reliability/longevity- all should be close to equal. Performance, Verado, Sterndrive, 4-stroke o/b. Corrosion, Outboards, stern drive- both are close. Not much of an issue these days. Maintanence costs, Stern drive has more maintenance followed by 4 stroke, valve adjustment, timing belts. Verado has the least, uses timing chains, no valve adjustment. Other things to consider, the loss of usable room inside the boat, weight distribution- may be an issue on 20 ft. boat. Cost, Verado can get spendy when adding gauge packages followed by stern drive and 4 stroke outboard. Personal favorite- Verado for performance, control operation, ease of steering in any type of use. You definitly get what you pay for.

[bullhunter29]

what i have is a 3.0 chevy in my bayliner the number 3 and 4 plugs are wet with gas what would make this happen thanks RON

[Boat Doc']

If you haven't already done so a leak down test would be in order to confirm valves and rings are ok. After that look for weak spark or flooding carb. Also make sure you have the correct spark plugs.

[fishyone]

Hi Boat Doc,

I've got a 17'Alumaweld Stryker, with a Honda 4-stroke 65 Jet. The hole shoot, especially with any weight is poor.

I do run shallow rivers, so I need the jet. The boat sticker says the HP rating is 90prop/65jet? What does this mean? Does this mean that the largest jet I can have is the 65? Why could you use a 90 prop, and only a 65 jet?

Thanks a bunch,
fishyone :smile:

[Rustyoar]

Proably because they are rating the Jet at the nozzel not the power head. In other words a 90 hsp prop, put a jet on it and loose 1/3 = spits out 65 at the jet; give or take.

Same power and weight at the head just lose at the jet end. There for they rate at the jet end vs the actual motor end.

Just my guess anyway Boat Doc will proably comfirm or tell me I am full of BS.

[Boat Doc']

what rustyoar said is right on, there is a 30% power loss with the jet. Make sure the impeller is shimmed as tight as possible and that it is sharpened. Any changes to the rated power may void the hull warranty and will be a violation of Coast Guard regs.

[fishyone]

Thanks a bunch,

I'll look at the impeller!

[Mikeymoto]

Boat Doc,
What is the normal idle speed for a 175 SJ? Mine seems like it is getting a little faster as time goes on. 2003 model. 1500+ rpm's ok?
Thanks,
Mike

[Boat Doc']

Should be around 1100, look at the throttle stop and make sure the cable is adjusted correctly.

[GWB]

Boat Doc,
I have a 2000 Alumaweld with a 175SJ and while running at idle the idle speed will drop very low and the engine will die. This does not happen all of the time and has really only been doing this the last 4-6 months. All other operation seems fine and I have installed new plugs every season since new even though it only has 41 hours on it. Any suggestions????
Thanks,
Gary

[timinthegorge]

Boat Doc.... It's a small but irritating thing....

My '03 stryker shifter gets loose. I had it tightened by your staff when I came in for a tune up, but it's loosened itself again. Maybe it's me?

I pulled the three screws on the shifter assembly and tightened it from behind, but I'd like to not have to do it again. Suggestions? Thanks for all your help...... Tim

[HntnFsh]

Boat Doc,
I have my boat in the shop for some warranty work.Cracked welds.When they pulled the engine.175sj,1998.A bunch of gas came out of the crankshaft area?Sounds like a seal is bad.The tech they have looking at it quoted $75.But said he has had to split the case on a rare occasion.If so,then it could run up to $300.To put in a new seal.
I know very little about boat motors,was wondering if that sounds right to you.I have no reason not to trust them,but would sure appreciate hearing another point of view on this.
Thanks very much,
Rick

[doublel]

Boat Doc

I have a 1992 blackmax 200 with a pump and don't use it in shallow water much so am considering putting a prop on it. The boat is a 18ft welded aluminum (MAXWELD) My buddy has an older 200 blackmax and has a lower unit that he will give me. My question is. Would you recommend converting to a prop from the pump to improve power/economy? How can I tell if my buddy's lower unit will fit on my 200 BM.

If I do go to the prop, what kind of prop would you recommend, as the buddys lower unit does not have a prop?

Is replacing the pump with a prop unit a job that a semi mecanical person like myself be able to undertake?

Thanks

[Boat Doc']

I would hook up a seperate fuel source with primer bulb. As the engine starts to die squeeze the bulb and see if it stays running. If it does rebuild the mechanical fuel pump. If it doesn't change by squeezing the bulb you will probably need help from a dealer. Could be ignition or plugged carbs or?

[Boat Doc']

Put some loc-tite on the threads.

[Boat Doc']

The seal retainer is fastened to the block with 4 bolts. Should be a very simple change with the powerhead already removed. If it takes more than an hour I would ask for a thorough explanation.

[Boat Doc']

Your buddys lower unit will fit. There is 7 inches difference between a jet and a prop. You can drop the engine 7 inches which is probably not practicle or install a 5 inch spacer kit and try it with a 19inch pitch stainless prop. If it cavitates excessively you will need to lower the engine about 2 inches, which may involve notching the transom. It should be something you could do yourself. The performance and fuel economy would be very noticable.

[GWB]

Thanks,

Gary

[HntnFsh]

Thank you for the input.I appreciate your help.
I do have another question about this though.
Would there be any other reason to split the case.In regards to the seal.Or issues caused by it?
Thanks again
Rick

[Mikeymoto]

Thanks Boat Doc' you're the greatest!
MM

[Boat Doc']

No reason to split the crankcase, maybe with extreme corrossion you might have to loosen a couple of the lower bolts.

[HntnFsh]

O.K. sorry,but 1 more ? Another mechanic told me that he doubts the seal was the problem.But more likely a recirc.hose that sucks the leftover fuel out of the cylinder(?) and cycles it back through the manifold.He said 1 could be cracked and is not siphoning.He also said the same as you.If its a seal its a simple process.An hour or less.
Do you think thats a possibility or maybe just another thing to consider if the seal doesnt solve the problem.
I know on motors, different things will have the same symptoms.Sometimes its a process of elimination.Hopefully the seal solves the problem and thats that.
Also the whole bill was $234

The description on the bill was as follows.

Bottom Crank Seal Leaking

Labor to remove adapter plate and lower crank seal housing assy.Replace seals & o-ring.Clean gasket surfaces.Reinstall lower seal housing & torque.Reassemble adapter housing and torque.

1 gasket (27-8302472007)$58.30
1 o-ring (25-62700)$2.10
2 seals (26-41953) $19.00

I thought maybe with a better explanation it would be easier for you to see what he did.And if it still falls into a 1 hr. repair orif he did more and 2 hrs is more in the ballbark.


Thanks again Boat Doc.
You have been a great help,and are a huge assett to this board.

Rick

[baltz526]

i just test drove my used sylvan with an 95 70 horse evenrude it has great top end and purrs along great at 2200rpm and up but it is dead flat out of the hole and it keeps dieing at troll or trying to load it back on the trailer at fast idle.if this was a old car i would say the accelerator pump was shot when you try giving it power slow it quits running but if you give it throttle faster it will pick up after it warms up.

[Boat Doc']

sorry for the delay- been out of town. If you have excessive fuel inside the area the gasket seals it would come from inside the engine. Cause could be stuck needle in a carb, bad fuel pump diaphragm, bad crank seal or lack of spark on one or more cylinders. If you have fuel inside the cowl area it would be an external source such as bleed lines, other cracked or broken hoses or a stuck carb needle.As for the work that was done make sure you don't get charged for a gasket twice.

[Boat Doc']

It sounds like the idle circuits are plugged up . May require disassembly and thorough cleaning. You should try richening the idle screws 1/4 turn richer if it has adjustable ones. There is no accelerater pump.

[Silverside]

Hey Boat Doc, Here is one for ya. 1983 90hp Mercery. Last three trip's on the Willy I would launch and run about three mile's up river. Motor ran smooth, not missing but acted like it was running on Five cyl. Normal wide open 5100rpm, but only get 4200rpm. By the time I get about three mile's it would kick in, and I would get 5100rpm again. The rest of the day I would not have any more problems. But the next trip out same thing would happen!!! I changed the fuel filter and plug's. Would a coil create this problem? How would I check this? Plug wire's I would think would have a missing problem all the time. Please help. Thanks Ken

P.S. While I got you, When I pull a skier at Lake Billy the motor bogg's out when I hit the gas. :hoboy: I have to feather the throdel some then hit it. Around town no problem. Is there anyway to make it work at both places? Thank's again.

[Boat Doc']

You are probably losing spark to a cylinder. The bad component is probably a switch box- there is 2, each one controls 3 cylinders. They can be intermittent and take out one to three cylinders like somebody was turning a switch on and off.If it was me I would change one and if the problem still existed swap it with the other one. Or you can determine which cylinder is affected and change the correct one. It could be a coil but they rarely fail. On the bogging at altitude I would recommend a prop 2 inches lower in pitch for high altitude use and maybe having to adjust the idle mixture.

[Mr_sturgeon]

I have a volvo penta 350ci, when I first bought it, it ran great then about the 8th time out it started to have a problem floodind when the motor was cold and to a long time to warm up. I changed the thermostat and that seemed to have fixed the problem of flooding but still doesn't run good. Now when I first start off even when the motor is warm it seems to hesitate and sometimes I get a "poof" out the carb. The carb was just rebuilt but if you ask me it sounds like it may need another rebuild? :shrug:
thanks for the help!

[Wilson]

Dear doctor,
Simple ?. Whats the best prop size to run on a 60hp merc?
16ft older closed bow starcraft, probably looking for top end instead of hole power.
Thanks for your help!

[Boat Doc']

Before you rebuild it again make sure you check fuel filters and initial timing and spark advance. Carb adjustments including float level and accelerater pump adjustments should also be checked.

[Boat Doc']

I would start with a 13 pitch and verify wide open throttle rpm's with a tach to make sure it is correct.

[sfk]

Just bought a little Gregor kicker boat with a Gamefisher 7.5 motor. I have no idea about the condition of the motor, but would like to know the following... I've got no manual for the motor, but assume its a mid 80s since the boat's an 84.

Where would I find the serial number?

What gas:oil ratio should be used?

Is regular unleaded ok, or should I use a lead additive?

What lubricant is used in the lower end?

Thats all I can think of right now... if you think I should be asking any other questions, please include the answers.

Thanks for your time and attention.

[Buck50]

We have a 1980 Mercrusier 228. We fired it up for the first time the other day and the exhaust risers seemed to get pretty warm. What would be considered a normal temperture and what is the best way to test this?
Thanks again for this forum, it's great!

[Boat Doc']

The serial number if it is still there should be located near the clamp bracket, engine pivot area. Use 90 weight gear oil in the gearcase. Regular fuel will be ok. That should be a Chrysler engine. I would guess fuel mixture at 50:1 but would recommend searching the web to find out for sure.

[Boat Doc']

The risers normally wouldn't get hotter than about 120 degrees at the rear were the water exits. Causes of excessive heat would be water pump in lower unit, water supply hose at transom on outside, bad gasket or sealing surface manifold to riser, riser plugged with rust or thermostat housing clogged or plastic check balls sting at thwermostat housing if equipted. Removing hoses at various locations and checking flow should aid in figuring where the problem is if you have one. If running on a hose make sure you have adequate water supply to lower unit.

[Robalo Bill]

Boat Doc I still have a constatnt alarm while motor is running on startup, water is pumping through motor...300beeps or so a minute. Oil reservoir is full, oil pumps into the gas line @ 1500rpm with a steady drip, drip. I changed the temp sensors port and starboard. I have spark at all pistons, no continuity alarm from aux oil tank on engine. With the ignition switch on these are the voltages I get from the warning module: white from module 2volts no fluctuation when turning engine with pull rope (plugs out) all wires connected and hand cranking motor blue/white wire @ constant 5volts.....could this be the oil motion sensor?

Thanks
Bill

[Boat Doc']

motion senser is bad if you do not have the following.With white lead disconnected you should have battery voltage + - one volt. with leads hooked up and probing blue/white lead cranking by hand should be 5 volts + - 1 volt then drop to less than one volt every two revolutions

[FallRiverGuy]

Dear Doc,

I have a 1996 Yamaha 6 hp kicker that had developed a problem with only the bottom plug fouling when I troll slowly. This is a recent condition that has developed over the last year. I used to troll all day without problems. Now I have to blow the motor out every hour. If I don’t the bottom plug will foul and I have to install a new one I use Yamaha oil and mix it 1:100 and use Plus grade gas. I figure if my mix is off both plugs would foul. The gas is not old and I use gas stabilizer.

[Boat Doc']

Things that come to mind would be weak spark, bad or wrong spark plug, fuel pump diaphragm if it is driven off bottom cylinder,crankcase leak, lower crank seal or the exhaust being plugged. Good luck

[FallRiverGuy]

Thanks for the reply. Most of the problems don't sound very good. The plugs are correct and I have swapped out enough that it is not a bad plug. How can you tell if the exhaust is plugged?

[Boat Doc']

remove the powerhead and look into the exhaust passage, another symptom of plugged exhaust would be a lack of top end.

[sfk]

Thanks for your reply re: Gamefisher 7.5... I did some web browsing and found two other recommendations on 50:1 fuel/oil ratio... Also lots of confusion about who actually made the motor(s)... Chrysler was mentioned several times... now the follow on question: does anyone sell parts for these motors anymore?

If it doesn't seem to run out, do you think its worth putting any money into?

Thanks again for your time and attention!

[Boat Doc']

Parts other than tune up parts may be difficult to come by. Depending on what it needs, I would clean a carburater, but i wouldn't spend more than 100.00 without thinking about replacing with a name brand engine that parts are readily available for.

[Silverside]

Boat Doc, Due to the previous post and talking to many people on my 1983 mercury 90 hp, the switch box should of been the problem. I replace it and the same cylinder still has no spark. Before I change out the switch box I also swap coil wire's and got spark, but now I don't. Is there a test for the coil? Or can there be something else that would let me lose spark to one cylinder. As to my previous post The spark would not be there in the morning run but after about 3 miles it would come back and I would have it the rest of the day. I also check ohm's on the wires and found no breaks.

Thank's Silverside

[Boat Doc']

first question would be did you change the correct switch box? if so remove any other wires that attach to the affected cylinder at the switch box. the items that can affect one cylinder are switch box, coil, plug wire and plug. you should also inspect trigger wires and other ignition wiring for damage from chafing on flywheel or broken wires. if you know which cylinder it is you can follow the wires from the switch box and work towards the top.

[1pump]

Yo Doc,

I have an '87 Merc 25M that I bought new from Stevens. I recently put a rebuild kit in the WMC carb. I haven't run it yet, but I noticed that the needle that came with the kit is all metal, while the original one has a rubber tip. Due to my experience with other carbs, the rubber tip is preferable, but what really has me concerned is that Merc says the needle seat is not replaceable. If the seat is worn, the metal tip will just make it worse, IMHO. Has anybody had a problem with that style of needle? :help:
I also found a slightly worn low speed screw, and the seat for that isn't replaceable either (if there even is one).
Thanks!

[fish Addict80]

Hey Doc, We sure are keeping you busy here :laugh: I would like to say thanks for the service you are providing here. I also have a question. I recently bought a 2000 8hp honda and it is a little difficult to start. When I bought it I had to pull the starter rope around 25 times before it would start. Once started though it was easy to start again as long as it was warm. It seems pretty consistently to not want to start when it has not been running recently. Even trying to start it the next day after using it acts the same way. I also was not getting much water out of the indicating hole for the water pump. So, I changed the impellor. But before I did I was trolling with it and it just quit after about 15 minutes of use and I could not get it restarted again. I thought maybe it overheated. :shrug: It was not used very much by the people I bought it from. Has probably less than 10 hours on it. They did start it pretty regular and did regular maintence on it also. So, What can I do to make this thing an easy starter?

Thanks Again for the help.

Luke

Edit: I just put it in a tank and it started on the 2nd pull (never did that before) but it would not run without the choke on. I ran it for about 5 mins to warm it up and every time I take the choke off it would increase in RPM then die. Also even with the new impellor installed it just drips water out of the discharge hole. I know the rubber hose is clear of blockage and when I had the Lower unit off I blew thru the water pump tube and it did have a bit of resistance. I could not get much air presure to come out the other side. Don't know what to do?

[KillerBeee]

I recently replaced the shift and throttle cables on my big motor. Since I have done this, I have had trouble adjusting the throttle to idle down after running at speed. After I am cruising, then return to idle in gear, the idle sticks up around 17-2000RPM. I have had to put the motor in neutral, and revv with the fast idle lever, and after that the motor idle speed drops down.
Also the gear sync seems a little bit off.When going back to neutral, it can be a bit tough to get out of forward gear.
Suggestions?
Thanks,
Beeeeeeeeeee

[Boat Doc']

we havn't seen any issues, of course if the seat is bad you replace the carb. However i think the carb would outlast the engine

[Boat Doc']

If it won't stay running without the choke on you need to disassemble and thoroughly clean the carb. I am not that familiar with Honda but if it has an accelerater pump you could advance the throttle a couple time to aid in cold starting or richen up the idle mixture screw. There has been other posts about different plugs that improve the problems you describe but I don't know what they are. The discharge hole may be plugged or the flow may only happen when the thermostat opens. You should check the temp when running to verify if it is overheating.

[Boat Doc']

sounds like the cables are not adjusted properly, the throttle cable needs to be adjusted so the arm rests against the stop. The shift should be adjusted so you have equal throw neutral to forward and neutral to reverse. The high shift effort is because of high idle speed.

[Jennie@ifish]

Boat doc,
My friend has a 1985 bayliner capri OMC 5.0 outdrive he added new HIVIS to the top of the outdrive, when we let the engine run for a while and then checkd the fluid it was a bright yellow color does that mean water is getting in the oil? or is that normal? thank you.

[Boat Doc']

morning Jen, yes it is an indication of water. those units are prone to leakage. If it needs to be changed once a month, they can buy a lot of oil for the cost of a seal job. If it needs to be changed after every trip then they should consider changing the seals.

[jimd]

I notice while trailering my 18' Tiderunning out I-84 this weekend that when I turned a corner to the right and came back to a straight alignment, the boat trailer would sway back and forth fairly significantly. To the point where my truck would sway too. I thought it might have been a tire pressure thing, but they were both equally, and slightly over, inflated (38 psi). Any other thoughts? Could the boat and motor be too heavy for the single-axle trailer? It's a glass boat with a 150 hp outboard.

Thanks.

Jim

[Boat Doc']

normally sway is caused by a lack of tongue weight. You should have approx. 2-300 lbs for your application. Another issue might be the trailer following ruts in the road.

[jimd]

I'll weight out the tongue, but I'm guessing its ok. I posted this elsewhere and was given the advice of moving the winch forward to get more of the weight over the axle (and on the tongue). I also remembered I put a 8hp kicker on not too long ago too. On the starboard side of the transem. That might have something to do with it too. Should I go by the max. psi pressure on the sidewalls of the tires? They are new and from Les. It's what they recommended for the trailer.

Thanks.

Jim

[Boat Doc']

everything points to a lack of tongue weight. Run the tires at max recommendation. Take the troller off if necessary to confirm or move the axle back or boat forward or add a spare tire to the front, move gear in the boat to the front. Lots of things can be done do add tongue weight.

[Robalo Bill]

Boat Doc I am still getting an oil flow alarm. I have changed all the filters, plugs, temp and oil sending units. I have spark on #4 cylinder. I did a flow test with a remote tank @ 1500rpm with the oil link arm attached 4cc oil pumped in 3 minutes. With the oil link arm OFF 18cc in 3 minutes. Soooooo I have oil and I have cooling water flowing ....but this alarm is driving nuts. Do the Oil warning modules go bad or the horn it's self?

Thankyou in advance.........Robalo Bill

[Tacklebuster]

Hi Boat Doc,
I have a 05 Yami 150 4 stroke. Every time I hit the ocean, there seems to be a bit of a salt build up at the end of the trip in the bottom of the cowling and the block. How can I safetly wash the power head and bottom of the cowling to get the salt off without causing damage to my motor :help: Seems to be always just a bit of water in the bottom of the cowling when I tip the motor up as well after a day in the ocean.

Thanks :flowered:

[Boat Doc']

You can carefully clean it with fresh water, avoid getting water in the air intakes. Spray everything with wd 40 or equivalent. There shouldn't be water in there. Would suggest taking it to a dealer to find out where it is coming from.

[Robalo Bill]

Hi Boat Doc..I think you missed my last post June 1/05....could you please let me know what you think?

Thanks
Bill

[Boat Doc']

If the crankshaft drive gear is good, the oil tank sender functions and there is spark to the green switch box terminal that the injection module attaches to and the module has battery voltage to the purple wire and the grounds are clean and good then the module could be bad. Make sure you check everything else first.

[earlybird007]

Boat Doc,
I have a Trophy 2052.....dead at sea, got towed in. Wont turn over. No audible alarm going off. Power everywhere else on the boat.

Got home and checked voltage at the switch....good there. Pulled the switch out...continuaty across the starter and the ignition poles of the ignition switch.

It has a neutral safety switch and an emergency stop switch....I dont know if they are bad or how to test them.

The audible alarm is supposed to sound when you turn the key on but doesnt. It alarms on low oil pressure, over temp, or low drive oil. Drive oil is ok, engine is cool but the engine is off so it should alrm for low oil pressure.

Any ideas?.......

Thanks in advance...........Rick @ wwbrowntrout@yahoo.com

[Boat Doc']

Check the battery and connections. Look for the engine fuse or circuit breaker and make sure they are good. If those are good pull apart the engine harness plug ins and look for problems. Sounds like the voltage from the ignition side of the switch isn't getting where it needs to go. You need to follow it back to the motor and see where the problem is. The neutral safety switch will keep it from cranking only. The lanyard switch could be the problem, check it for continuity, should be closed in run position.

[earlybird007]

Why doesnt the audible alarm come on then?......theres no oil pressure.....

Rick

[Boat Doc']

no power between it and the ignition switch possibly thru the engine harness.if the lanyard switch cuts ignition 12 volts it could be the problem but not likely. look for battery power out the ignition side of the switch and follow it back till you find the problem. don't forget the easy stuff like fuses,wiring harness plug ins and battery and ground connections.

[Robalo Bill]

Boat Doc , I rechecked the gears they look good for the positiom they were stopped at, oil tank sensor checks out. I have checked the voltage to the purple wire and get + 12volts DC. I checked the spark on cylinders1,3,5...Ok ...but the green switch box terminal I barely get a reading.... 0.2volts...this sound right?

http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/37501_3_5cylinders.jpg

[Boat Doc']

compare the reading to the other green wires, they should be the same.if this is the green wire that powers the injection module disconnect it and see if the voltage comes up. if it does the module is bad, if it doesn't the switch box is bad, which also means there is no spark on that cylinder.

[Robalo Bill]

Boat Doc I'm familiar with the switch box. The green wire to the injection module? is this the same as the warning module?

Thanks
Bill

[Boat Doc']

yes, one in the same- sorry

[Eastside Dave]

Hi Boat Doc!
I have a steering problem... I have a new to me '86 Merc 60 hp and the steering lately has been 'sticky' when I turn the wheel to the left which pushes the rod into the housing, and finally it has 'frozen up'; the wheel is stuck. I'm thinking that over time too much grease has been put into the housing and that simply cleaning it out may solve the problem. Any thoughts?
Thanks!
Dave

[fish Addict80]

Hey, Doc I asked your advice on my 2000 8hp honda if you remeber. I Have been trying to figure our what is wrong with it and it seems that after running awhile it dies. It seems that it is flooding and then dieing. The carb spits fuel (overflows) out some of the top holes. It also drips fuel out of the air intake so I know it is getting too much fuel. I also checked the cylinders and plugs and they were all wet with alot of fuel. I took the carb apart and everything was perfect and shiney clean. I used some carb cleaner anyway and it ran well after that but still has the same problem. The float seems to look ok but I thought that might be the problem. What else could it be? Any ideas?

Thanks
Luke

[Boat Doc']

The cable needs to be removed from the engine, then clean out the tube it goes into and grease. If it's stuck you need to drive it out with a hammer. Make sure you put something thru the hole on the end so you don't collapse it. Air hammer works good. In some cases the engine has to come off for access.

[Boat Doc']

The fuel has to be getting past the needle, I would recommend thoroughly flushing the fuel line to the carb. Look for peices of dirt or rubber- could be the lines are deteriorating and coming apart inside which would unseat the needle. Check the float level. If you don't find any problems I would change the float and needle assy.

[Danderson]

Dear Boat Doc,


I recently purchased a brand new 05 Mercury 9.9 Big Foot. I was trolling in Tide water last weekend and my motor sounded like someone threw a wrench in it... I imediatly turned it off and took it to stevens in Tigard...I received a call back in a few days they told me that the whole lower unit was damaged the gears wear stripped and the rod in side was all twisted up.... They said that they would not warrentee this because it was impact damage and that it would cost me $1600.00 to fix it.....$1600.00 OMG I couldn't believe it...Impact damage I didn't impact nothing the motor is a month old and has less than 12 hours on it...Jeff in Tigard told me that these motors are made with reenfoced steel and how good the steel is in the motor...OK so my ? is if the lower unit of these motor's are made of such high qulity steel and they are calling my problem impact damage....wouldn't you think there would be some damage to the prop or the lower unit...There was nothing at all....So know since they told Mercury that it was impact damage I know have to wait for my motor to be sent back WI and wait for there answer to what they think it is....This should of been taken care of at the dealership and my motor should have been warrentee'd
there was know visable sighns of damage on the outside of the motor to cause $1600.00 worth of lower unit damage Why would of the tech told mercury that it was impact damage just based on what the inside looked like...? Know I'am with out a motor for weeks and out money too boot...I just spent $2300.00 on this motor a month ago...I would think that you would stand bye your product a little better than what I recieved...I feel if I was big time portland guide or a regular this would of been taken care of...Instead i'am just a loney sucker from the general public that they think they can get another $1600.00 from for something that obvoiusly was a default at the factory.... Why was I treated like this when I have talked to several guides that seem to have no problem getting warentee'd work long after the fact of a problem? It seems that who you know will get things done that is not a way to run a business that in your tech's own words " we are a local business and I'am doing everything for you sir but my hands are tied" well if you would told mercury that the lower unit was damaged but there was no visable damage to the prop or lower unit then I would have motor back and fixed....But he told them it was impact bamage and they will not approve it know......This thing is shipping out today from Steven's in Tigard 6-13-05. What can we do to prevent this from happening? Can you live up to your customer service standards that your employee's say you hold, and help me with what is obvoiusly a factory flaw....You guys do warrentee work all the time on motor's, you are a major mercury dealer....there is no reason why this should have to go WI for a second opinion....I feel your tech's should be quilified to judge what is a factory problem and what is impact damage

Derek Anderson

[jimd]

Dear Boatdoc:

I finally got my boat back in the water after having some work done to the engine. Starts great, runs smooth, but when I have it at full throttle (about 4500 rpms) after about a minute, it dies down to about 4000 rps and holds this speed constant. If I throttle down and then back up, it max's out at 4000 rpms. If I turn the engine off and let it sit for awhile, then start it back up, it'll max out at 4500 rpms. I'm running a '91 Suzuki 150 hp outboard behind a '83 glass Tiderunner. My initial though was fuel restriction or mix ratio (ie. too lean). Any thoughts?

Thanks.

Jim

[Robalo Bill]

Hi Boat Doc.
I checked all the green wire voltages , they are all around 0.02volts. If I disconnet the 2 green wires from the switch block (the terminal that feeds the oil sensor module) and check at the switch block terminal....the voltage jumps to 47volts. Does this sound like the module is faulty?

Thanks
Bill

[Owner]

Like the title of the post the RPM's on my engine will only reach about 3600 for the first 10-15 minutes. I have a 1993 Mercury 60hp 2 stroke outboard on a 16' SeaSwirl.
After running the engine at full throttle (and 3500 rpm) for awhile it will start to "catch" and come up to 5500 rpm like normal but only for a second then back down to 3500. It will do this intermitently for 2-3 minutes and finally will jump up to full power where it stays for the rest of the run. When I restart my engine after a couple hours of trolling it usually acts fine but if I don't start it for awhile it acts up. It seems to act up more when it rains. . I replaced the fuel filter and cleaned the spark plugs. Any other suggestions?? Water in gas??
Thanks in advance
Owner

[Herring Problem]

First, Just picked up my 2052 2004 Trophy with the 4.3 v-6 190 hp carb from my dealer after some repairs.

Reason taken in:
First Motor stopped running. Appears there is no fire. Dealer replace distributor cap, checked coil and ECM unit.
Dealer replaced the distributor cap to get it to run. Had dealer due a tune and service to get boat ready for season. Friday night picked up boat and took the coast.

Here is the problem.
1st Started motor and now there is a very distinct knocking sound coming from the motor.
2nd. The tach no longer points to 700 rpms at idle, but flutters between 600 and 900 rpms, motor does not speed or slow down with the tach movement.
3rd. I thought , from reading post the prop may have spun and the knocking noise was from that. Replaced the prop hub with new one, reinstalled prop. No change. Boat wouldn't plan at all, showing 4600 prms.
Took boat back in and at idle you can hear the knocking nosie.
4th. Knocking sound could also be from the new spark plugs hitting the tops of the pistons. Very bad if this is the case, but would explain the knocking sound and definite power lose.
From the Mecrusier Shop manual, one of the problems could be from the improper ignition set up and failure to reset the electronic moule back after short circuiting the system. Thus the timing is off and cannot advance.
Does this creat a knocking noise?

The dealer also informed me that the fuel pump was not working and they replaced it and the fuel fiter. But the kick is, the same fuel pump is still on the boat and there is a charge to me for the fuel fiter (part of tune and service) and no warranty charge for a fuel pump.Warranty charges fro labor and Dist. cap.

Can you give me some of your insight as what may be going on?

[Boat Doc']

Derek, looked at your lower unit myself, damage to prop, shafts twisted and gears broke, in my opinion all evidence of impact damage, in my further opinion not a warranty issue but something that should be covered by insurance. Unit has been sent to factory per your instruction for them to reveiw further. Would hope to hear back by mid to end of next week for their decision. Hope this addresses your concerns. If you would like to discuss this further feel free to call me, I am at the Tigard location.

[Boat Doc']

I would try a seperate fuel source, check the fuel pump then look at plugs, timing, throttle linkage.

[Boat Doc']

I would vote for the module, you have changed everything else.

[Boat Doc']

If the timing was still in base mode it would explain the power loss but probably not the knocking. If the plugs were hitting the pistons it probably wouldn't run at all. I would give the dealer the opportunity to resolve any issues and if necessary get a second opinion.

[jdstrd]

I have a 2005 9.9 4 stroke and was told not to put hot water tap on it , because of likely damage that will occur. Is this true? I would like to have it, but dont want to screw up the motor.

[SeanD]

Boat Doc,

I have been using a 2004 merc 8hp 4 stroke recently for backtrolling on a driftboat. The throttle is hard to control. It is hard, darn near impossible, to keep the rpm's right above idle. If you give it any throttle above idle the rpms jump up a bit and you let off a little and the rpm's go right back to idle. Which makes it super hard to use to troll or backtroll at speed right above idle. My older 2stroke isnt like that. Is this a characteristic of 4 stroke kickers, or is there an adjustment that can be made?

Thanks

[Boat Doc']

when hooking up for hot water the water from the block should be regulated so the engine doesn't run cold. For example ideally you would open the valve to fill the tank quickly then shut it down to a trickle so the engine will run at or close to its desighned temperature. Symptoms of a cold running engine are fuel in oil, poor running quality, plug fouling and rings not seating. Any of these problems can be corrected by regulating the water flow so engine stays at designed temperature. In summary go ahead and do it but use it correctly.

[Boat Doc']

From what I have seen it is a symptom of a four stroke. You can go to a smaller pitch prop that would help.

[Danderson]

Derek, looked at your lower unit myself, damage to prop, shafts twisted and gears broke, in my opinion all evidence of impact damage, in my further opinion not a warranty issue but something that should be covered by insurance. Unit has been sent to factory per your instruction for them to reveiw further. Would hope to hear back by mid to end of next week for their decision. Hope this addresses your concerns. If you would like to discuss this further feel free to call me, I am at the Tigard location.



Damage to Prop?????? Where? There was no damage to the prop exect maybe a few very and I mean very small chips in it.... That was just from stirring up rock on the bottom.... I Hit Nothing............. Why are you guys treating me this way.... There is no damage to my prop or the outside of the lower unit. I took a picture of my prop before I took it up there that day.... Would you like to see it again? It is in high Res. and you can cleary see No damage except for a few minor chips to it....Why should I have to make a claim on my insurance company on a motor that is a month old and obviously has a defect... I purchased this Motor with a 5 year Warranty(It was a sale you had going on)... I'am not going to raise the premium of my insurance On something that should be covered.....Shaft twisted and gears Broke with No damage to the prop....Last time we talked I asked you that ? there is no damage to the prop and you said no there is no visable damage know you say there was? I don't get it.... Because there was not. I took a picture of the prop the case the outside on 6 differant angles in case my motor was damaged in the shop just a precaution I take so i have pictures of the prop just like it looked the day i dropped it off to you let me know if you want me to post them then you can tell me and 4500 Fisherman that use this web site why my motor is not being warrantee'd?

Boat Doc moved my thread to the main board you can read the replies from other fisherman and steven's marine customers that use the forum right HERE (http://www.ifish.net/forum/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=859969&an=0&page=0#85996 9)

Derek Anderson

[ET]

Boat Doc. I want to thank you for all your help here. I appreciate that you take the time to answer our questions.

I'm sorry to read of the disagreement with Mr. Derek Anderson, but as a businessman I realize that sometimes these things happen. Hopefully it will be resolved to everyone's satisfaction.

I'm not taking sides on this issue, I just wanted to let you know your assistance here is appreciated!

[Herring Problem]

Portland dealer has boat, found mechanic failed to plug in #4 and #6 spark plug wires.
Reason for knocking sound and tach fluttering. Mechanic going to go over all the electronics and repull all the plugs and get it right.
Ask how in the world did the other shop mechanic check the timing and set it. Couldn't have. Sounds like he got busy and forgot what he was working on. The boat was never finished being serviced. Rushed work.
When I get the bill, I'll be back at the Bend dealer to get reinbursed for the goof.
Thanks for the reply.

[Robalo Bill]

Boat Doc.............BINGO....that was the problem. Just got the warning module UPS'd from Scott at the Tigard store. Plugged her in.....and no more beeping...Yahoo!

Thanks Much.. for all your input
Bill

[chromerdome]

I have 04 merc. bigfoot with trim I noticed oneday that i had fluid leaking out of the filler cap on my trim ,the cap was loose so i lost some fluid ,When running the boat and move trim up or down ,it get stuck ? Should i add more fluid ? and what it called thanks

[SeanD]

What pitch do you recommend? I would like to be able to troll slower. Would a 5.5 pitch work?

[HntnFsh]

Would just like to add to what ET said.We really appreciate all you do for us.Hope this issue doesnt get you down or make you feel like you arent appreciated.
Your an extremely valuable asset to this board.
Thanks for alll the help you've been giving!

[steelhooked]

boat doc i just recently purchased a 90' mercury 8hp 2-stroke w/ shifter in handle. my question is starting it and idle. it does not want to start very easy, i end up cranking on the throttle to get it to go but then it is in gear and moving for a moment and that doesn't seem right or is it? it will idle just fine once it has warmed up. i will end up flooding it if i just leave it in the neutral position to start it. i have already changed the plugs in it so that doesn't seem to be a issue. also what brand of oil do you recommend for mixing.

[HntnFsh]

Boat Doc.I have a problem with my 175sj.I goofed and posted it in the Boat and Motor tech.General discussions instead of here.I would repost here but my typing sucks and it took me about 40 minutes just to type it once.Could you please look at my post and see if you could give me some advice.
Thank you,
Rick

I posted it the 18th at 7:44pm.Its titled "Engine and pump?Problems."

[Tinman]

Boat Doc:

I am trying to choose between a 75 hp and 90 hp 2-stroke Mercury for my new Pacific City dory. The dorymen recommend standard old-style 2 stroke technology for light weight and durability for surf launching.

As you know, the 75 and 90 hp Mercs are the same engine, just tuned differently. My question is this: which will give me better gas mileage at normal cruising speeds.

The boat is 21'3" long, flat bottom, 7'10" beam, 5'6" bottom width, marine plywood, built by Terry Learned of Cloverdale. The hull weighs about 1,000 lbs, and I estimate the loaded weight at 2,600 lbs including hull, motor, fuel, passengers and gear.

Terry and several other dorymen recommend 70 hp, but I notice that some of the dorys are now running 90 or even 115 hp outboards.

I realize that my dory, like all flat bottom boats, will be speed-limited by sea conditions on most days, but I also want to be able to plane a full load of passengers, tuna and ice.

Will the 75 give me better gas mileage than the 90 day in and day out? If not, I tend to go with the 90. Thanks for your help.

[Boat Doc']

use Mercury trim and steering fluid or ATF or power steering fluid. The symptoms you are describing are low fluid level

[Boat Doc']

5.5 pitch works great for trolling on heavy non planing boats. It would probably be to small for a drift boat- would bump the rev limiter at high speed

[Boat Doc']

When you rotate the knob on the front of the engine the idle speed should increase. If it doesn't tighten the screw on the arm that moves fore and aft so the slack is out of it.

[Boat Doc']

At cruising speed the difference in consumption would probably be around a half gallon an hour at WOT closer to 2.I think the 90 would be a better choice mainly for the extra power if needed.

[jimd]

After taking my boat to East Lake this weekend, which is at about ~6400 ft in elevation, the big motor (Suzuki 150 hp 4-stroke) didn't like to run much past 2000 rpms. I had a 8 hp 2-stroke merc kicker that ran very wll though. Will adjusting the mixture on the big motor fix that problem, and how much should I need to tweek it? I turned the mixture screw a bit, but it didn't seem to help. Anything else to try? It's been serviced recently, new plugs, carb kits, etc. and runs great in the Columbia.

Thanks.

Jim

[Boat Doc']

You can improve idle quality by adjusting the mixture screws, it might take a half a turn. To get some performance back try getting a spare prop 2 inches less pitch than you run down here. If you already have a spare you can repitch what you have.

[jimd]

Thanks! I'll give that a try.

Jim

[steelhooked]

ok i went out and looked at it and there is definitely a lot of slop on the metal arm. i tightened the arm as tight as it would allow and still had a lot of slop. after looking at the arm i am curious if the arm was hooked up backward because it will will move a lot more if turned around 180 degrees and hooked up just fine. the far part of the arm that extends under the fly wheel now points up and seems to make the adjustment better but there is still a little slop but much better. is this correct? is it normal to have a little slop?

[Boat Doc']

The arm does point up, a little slop is ok. When knob is rotated all the way to the right the engine speed should increase which will make for much easier cold starting. If it doesn't check that the throttle cam is just touching the other cam. If the idle speed screw is backed out to far the cam won't touch the other cam and make the knob inoperable.

[steelhooked]

then that was the problem, the arm was pointed down and really doing anything. thanks!!!!!!!!!! :bowdown:

[stevo]

Boat Doc', thank you for the time and effort you put in on this forum, it is greatly appreciated.

My question is this; I have a 1998 115hp johnson ocean runner outboard. This is an early FICHT motor, it has both fuel injection as well as auto oil injection. The issue I am seing is alot of smoking at lower RPMs, it seems to me that the fuel/oil ratio may be too high and the motor is getting more oil than it needs. Is there any way to ensure that the ratio is correct for RPM ranges, and adjust if needed?
Thanks

[Jakiedog]

Boat Doc, just came across the forum - thanks a ton for your input. I have a 15'Duckworth with a 70HP Suzuki oil injected pump and a Honda 8HP kicker. Never been in the salt that I know of. The widow of a good friend sold this to me, and it didn't come with the manuals. Going to the salt in a few weeks, and don't know where/how to flush the motors of the saltwater. This is my first motorized boat, so sorry for the potentially "rookie" question. I'd rather not launch it in a lake on the way home just to flush the motors.
Any idea how much a 125HP slightly used oil injected pump would run me. This boat is underpowered.

[Boat Doc']

Several things could cause smoke such as air or fuel pressure being off or problems with oil injection. Those motors can have problems that can be very expensive to repair. My advice is save your money,getting to much fuel or oil is much better than not enough. Unless you are sacrificing running quality leave it alone.

[Boat Doc']

If there is a flush attachment it would be a screw located between the grase zirc and vent hose. If it's not there you would have to back it into the water. I would be happy to sell you a different motor but what you have if properly set up should work fine, anything bigger would be to heavy and cause other undesirable handling problems. Check the impeller and liner. Sharpen and shim the impeller as necessary and replace the liner if badly grooved or pitted.

[foxer]

Boat doc. How difficult is it to change to hyd steering in a aluminum windshield boat (outboard) Is this something that a dealer can do and how much for the labor?

[ctflyfish]

Boat doc: I have a 18 foot aluminum boat powered by a 4 stroke 60 h.p. motor. The boat is fairly light as I run it with only two people and fishing gear in it. Can I get higher cruise speed by switchng to a higher pitch prop? I cruise at 3800 RPM and the factory prop is 13 1/4 X 17. Thanks ctflyfish@aol.com

[Boat Doc']

The conversion is something you could do easily, if a dealer did it expect about 3-4 hours labor if engine doesn't have to be removed.

[Boat Doc']

It's very important that the engine be propped so that it reaches its recommended wide open throttle rpm. If you are there now with your existing prop you can try stainless which can increase all around performance. The only other option is a bigger engine.

[angler_andy]

Hi Boat Doc'
This may seem like a pretty basic question but I have a Mercury 110, 9.8 H.P. How do I change the lower end oil. I found the drain plug but where do you fill it? Thru the same hole and if so how do you know how much to put in. Do you have to put the motor on its side or what? Thanks.
Andy.

[Boat Doc']

Fill it from the bottom until it comes out the top vent plug, it is locatedjust above or below the cav plate and is a much smaller screw than the drain. Fill it with the motor upright

[Grain of Salt]

Boat Doc,
I have a 1988 merc 8hp with no spark to either cylinder, had a spare switchbox so I swapped that out without effect...still no fire...stator tested good but my manual has poor info on trigger values...could you provide me the correct values....oh, I did test the kill switches first and both checked ok.

thanks for the help

[Boat Doc']

should be 650 - 850 ohms between leads

[ripnlips]

Boat Doc...I also have an 18 ft aluminum boat with a 60hp Merc EFI. Last year I went thru a period where the most RPM I could generate was 3500-3800. The manual says tops should be 5500 or so. I brought it in to your Tigard shop, you couldn't find anything wrong except perhaps too many ties on the throttle cable, said it was getting the right RPMs and gave it back to me. I took it out and got 5500 & better. Several trips and all was good. Took it up to East Lake this last week and back to 3500 tops. I checked the throttle cable and it looks like it goes to it's capacity. I trailer with the motor up as recommended in the manual. Is this kinking the cable or what are your thoughts?

[Grain of Salt]

Thanks for your response on my merc 8hp (trigger values)...it checked fine so I retested the stator
b/w to gnd 16.5 (12-18 normal)
b/y to gnd 2.9 (3.2-3.8 normal)
b/y to b/w 2.3 (3.1-3.7 normal)

so I am guessing the stator is the problem...if my base values are correct...the only part I cant test is the switchbox, and it is new...although I have had new parts that didnt work...but unlikely...your thoughts?

thanks again

[Boat Doc']

Altitude, run it down here to make sure it runs correctly, if it does get a prop 2 inches smaller in pitch for running at altitude.

[BloodNtheboat]

Dar boat doc,
I have a 96 or 97 merc 6.0 that wont troll slow, this is a new problem, and has always worked fine at slow and idle speeds.
I changed the plugs out and my fuel filter is clean, everything works at high speeds, but i cant get it to troll right down to barely movin like i used to be able to?
Any suggestions?
I am not all that mechanically inclined, but I usually can fix small problems.
Thanks for any help.
Brian.

[HntnFsh]

Boat Doc,
With the help of Seahair.I narrowed the problems on my 98 175 sj down to either a switchbox or stator.
I have good spark at all times on cyl.2,4,6. I have interemittent spark on 1,3,and 5. Sometimes good spark on all.Sometimes no spark on 1. sometimes no spark on any.

I considered swapping the switch boxes to confirm that, thats the problem.But the leads arent long enough to do that with.

Is there a way to test the switchbox or stator to identify exactly which is the problem? Or do you think its more likely the switchbox?

Thanks,
HntnFsh

[Boat Doc']

Normally idle problems can be resolved with adjusting the air mixture screw. If you still have a problem try unplugging the stop switches to make sure they aren't the problem. Next I would disassemble and clean the carb.

[Boat Doc']

If you are saying the loss of spark is on 1,3 or 5 only and it is intermittent it would have to be the switch box. The stator would effect 3 cylinders not one or two.

[Grain of Salt]

Boat Doc
think you might have missed my post, 3rd down on this page referring to stator ohm readings...just wondering if those readings would shut spark off completely?...still seem to be getting voltage out of the leads when I spin the flywheel.
Just trying to guess which part to buy, stator or switchbox.

thanks

[Boat Doc']

sorry I responded then our internet shut down. I believe tha stator is ok. Disconnect the stop switches, if you still have no spark and the trigger tests good replace the switch box.

[ratcitycat]

hi boat doc

thanks for your help on this board
I have a quick ? concerning my motor
It is a 1999 30hp 4 stroke mercury & I was wondering if the 40 hp model is the same except carburation or entirely different. If it is the same motor what would it take to up the power & rough cost estimate
Thanks again, Mike

[Sea Lilly]

Hello Boat Doc.
I have recently had my boat a 1989 Trophy hard top 22' Re-powered with a new 2005 Mercury MerCruiser 4.3 Lt. and Alpha one outdrive
It fires up quickly and runs strong with plenty of power......"BUT" when I try to shut it down,
It will Diesel for a substantial amount of time....In fact it will only shut down if I let it idol for at least 10 min.
after running at cruising speed, or turn it off while it is in gear.

I use Texaco 92 octane and my warm idol is set at 550 rpm in the water.....not sure what the timing is set at but I will ask my mechanic.

Thanks for any advice

[ripnlips]

Boat Doc....My 60hp Merc has electronic fuel injection. I thought it would be immune from altitude problems. In addition to that, last year, I had the same 3500 rpm problem at sea level. Still looking for an answer. Thanks

[Boat Doc']

I need a serial number to give you accurate info.

[Boat Doc']

Several things to try or check.Idle mixture as rich as possible without affecting idle quality,idle speed as low as possible without dieing when shifted,correct timing,throttle cable adjusted so linkage goes against stop all the time,next colder heat range of plugs,140 degree thermostat,different brand of fuel, let engine idle 2 minutes before shutdown. If these solutions don't help there is a anti dieseling kit available as a last resort. However it requires throttle handle movement for restart.

[Boat Doc']

You need to verify that you still have the rpm loss at sea level. If it works ok you need a different prop for altitude. If it doesn't there is another issue that needs to be determined. efi does not replace the power loss associated with altitude only forced air induction will do that- supercharging or turbocharging. Your system will correct the air fuel ratio to provide smooth running only.

[Sea Lilly]

Hi Boat Doc
Thanks for the advice I am going out now to try out the 140 deg. T-stat I had a 160 deg. in yesterday......Hope it works :nerd:

[ratcitycat]

serial # OG906943 1999 30HP 4-STROKE MANUAL START

[Talljeeper]

Hi Boat Doc, its me again LOL
I have a 75 Seaswirl, 140 4 cylinder,2V Rochester.
I have a hard starting, flat spot issue.
I rebuilt the carb, and all the rebuild did was "move" the rpm range where the flat spot was. I can feather the throttle to bring it out of it.
It is harder than heck to start..actually have to prime the carb with a little fuel down the throat to get it to fire.
It idles roughly, even after many attempts to smooth it out.
It will cruise pretty well, with an occasional miss.

Do you have any suggestions, tips, etc.....

The motor runs strong but fuel delivery is driving me crazy.

Could it be a fuel filter issue? Thank you in advance for your always right on the money advice..
Paul

[Sea Lilly]

After changing out the thermostat to a 140 deg. and dropping the heat range
of the spark plugs it seems to be working as it should.
we ran 56 miles today with out any shut down problems.......
How ever, I did lose 3 MPH off my top end. Before I made this change I could
do 44 MPH wide open and now IM getting 40 to 41 MPH which is still OK,
It just doesn't seem right after spending all that money that you should have to
make these kind of changes to the motor.
Thanks for all the input.......
........Gary :applause: :applause: :applause:

[Boat Doc']

Differences are, carbs- 280.00 ea.,ECM 200.00, and adapter flange 15.00.

[Boat Doc']

Sounds like the float bowl is leaking, make sure you have the correct gaskets and also check the accelerater pump passages to make sure they are clear and all parts are in place. This is assuming the engine is mechanically sound.

[ratcitycat]

Thank You Boat Doc for the info.
Mike

[Billnoy]

Hi boat Doc
I have a line on a 98 Mercury 75hp long shaft that is presently on a forward control boat. Approx what would it cost to add a bay kit and a tiller so that I could run it on my 17ft Super Vee? Is there an easier way to do this?I cant seem to find one of these already set-up,except new?
Thanks for the help.

[Johnny Utah]

I have a 1992 200 hp EFI Mercury w/factory pump. It was tuned up at low altitiude but I am running it at high altitude (4500 ft to 6000 ft) for the next month or so. It is powering a 21 foot Super V and sometimes I can't even get on plane. At Sea level the pump can get me up to 30mph with 5 passengers. I am hoping that it is the altitude that is causing the lack of performance and there isn't anything wrong with my motor. Is there anything I can do to help a little? How about different octane gas or a different fuel to oil mix? Any suggestions would be great.

[wheatie]

Torque value for exhaust riser elbow. About 20lbs.??? Merc. V-6 4.3. Thanks.!!!

[Boat Doc']

950.00 for both new not installed. For jet drive add 50.00

[Boat Doc']

Check the impellewr for sharpness and shimming. You could rejet it to make it run smoother and maybe add a little bit of power if it seems to run rich. If you do that make sure you jet it back to stock for low altitude. If not you will burn pistons.

[Boat Doc']

20 would be good

[Boat Doc']

Let me try this one again, you have EFI so it adjusts mixture automatically, in looking at another post you don't have a stainless impeller which would be highly recommended. Blueprinting the intake would also be recommended. Also the new performance jet with the larger intake and impeller would be a tremendous improvement. Impeller runs 436.00, Blueprint about 75.00. Performance pump is 1940.00, comes with stainless impeller. 95.00 to blueprint.

[Boat Doc']

Let me try this one again, you have EFI so it adjusts mixture automatically, in looking at another post you don't have a stainless impeller which would be highly recommended. Blueprinting the intake would also be recommended. Also the new performance jet with the larger intake and impeller would be a tremendous improvement. Impeller runs 436.00, Blueprint about 75.00. Performance pump is 1940.00, comes with stainless impeller. 95.00 to blueprint.

[ripthevolcano]

Boat Doc, help me please...Buoy 10 is on the horizon!
I have a Chevy/Kodiak 350 w/ Kodiak pump in my 99 North River. The temp guage seems to be running at about 225 at idle and pegging at running speed. It surges as I back off the throttle. Sometimes it runs perfectly at 150-170 degrees. I know the motor is not running that hot because I can touch the exhaust manifolds and the heat exchanger. Also my high temp alarm that goes off at 212 is not sounding. Recently put a sender in it. Help! Any ideas. :bowdown:

[Boat Doc']

If you are certain that it's not hot then I would guess an incorrect or bad sender or loose or bad connections. If it is getting hot look at the thermostat, heat exchanger tubes and water supply from the pump. Pull the pump apart if necessary and make sure no debris is plugging any passages. If this is a carburated motor the surging is likely fuel filters or or loose hoses or fittings.

[Dinikin]

Hello Boat Doc. Thank you for all your help on this site.
Got few questions.
I have 96 Evinrude 6hp 2stroke. Upon inspection of lower unit found gear oil to be milky, obviously water entering the system. Here are my questions.
1 Does Stevens marine sell Evinrude parts? How much for lowver unit seal replacement kit.

2 How much do you charge for leak down test to determine faulty seal?

3 Is there any other possibilitys of water entering the lower unit other than a. prop shaft seals, b. drive shaft seals, c. plug drain/fill seals. ???

4 I am planning to do repairs my self, but just wanted to ask. How much will it cost to fix water entering the lower unit by Stevens marine repair shop. Worst case, or just one of the shaft seals.


Regards,

[Billnoy]

Boat Doc
Thanks for the ongoing education.
I hope you can help me,I have a 17 foot SuperVee with an 80jet(115hp),tiller control and a 9.9 Merc. four stroke kicker.The boat has the fuel tank under the floor so I have lots of weight on the tail.I've had the impeller shimmed and the motor runs fine but it takes a long time to get on plane even by myself,and the boat is prone to porpising .I took the trim pin out as a trial( not a power trim motor) and it seemed to shorten the time it takes to get on plane. Does it make sense that I could shim the top of the motor from the transom to give me more trim range? The boat will get on plane much faster if I fill the fish well with water or if someone sits on the fordeck but I dont want to add ballast to the boat.Your thoughts would be appreciated.
Bill

[Redhawk]

Stevens Marine Boat Physician -- thanks from all of us ifishers for your time and expertise. It's a pain when our machinery does not work quite right so our time is spent trouble shooting instead of tight line'n.

My question -- got a Redline Ford 302 in front of a 2 stage Hamilton pump on an Alumaweld 18'. It is 18 years young bought new from Stevens Marine. It has been an all around family fun/fishing machine. The engine has just under 900 hours. The engine has slowly increased in temperature over the past couple years. It is now running 200-210 degrees when running at 3500 rpm. The heat exchanger was changed out a couple hundred hours ago. Also, I have checked the river/lake water flow and it seems to be okay. The engine has plenty of antifreeze/water mixture. What would cause/cure this high temp problem? Thanks in advance, Redhawk

[Redhawk]

Boat Physician -- concerning the 302 hi temp. After reading the Chevy350 hi temp post, I forgot to say my high temp alarm is not going off with the 200-210+ temp. I'm not sure if that makes a difference. Redhawk

[Boat Doc']

We do not service or sell parts for Evinrude/Johnson. You may consider changing the oil and running it for awhile to see how bad it is leaking. If it takes along time to turn milkey you can a lot of oil for the price of resealing a gearcase.

[Boat Doc']

To much negative trim will cause the bow to dig in and have it steer by itself. I would try all or part of the following. Removal of the trim stop as long as the bow does not dig in at high speed, bend down the tab that extends past the bottom to the point that the porpoising stops and make sure weight is properly distributed including moving battery and extra gear to the front. As a last resort you could weld on or bolt on trim tabs to eliminate the problem.

[Boat Doc']

Pressure test system to check for leaks if ok then check the heat exchanger passages for restrictions, thermostat, replace riser gaskets and check gasket surfaces. One other possibility is the circulating pump is not working correctly.

[Boat Doc']

So this may change everything, The first thing to do is verify the temperature ideally with an infrared heat gun. It may be a sender or increased resistance in the wiring. You may not need to do anything other than note when the gauge reads 200 it's actually whatever the real temp is.

[Redhawk]

Boat Doc from Redhawk -- Thanks for the starting point on overheat -- if I get in over my head, I'll bring it out to the experts. Thanks again.

[Fish mojo]

New topic Boat Doc. I have a 1991 Mercruiser Alpha 1 4.3 carburated with raw water cooling. Issue one is water temp at running condition. Engine starts fine, runs up to 120 degrees and settles in there. Doesn't overheat or run badly- I know others who run at 170. Do I have the wrong T-stat? Also my oil pressure seems to fluctuate on the gauge pretty wildly. Used to run fine and steady last year at 60 psi. This year, I was running WOT and looked at the gauge and was almost zero!! Backed off and the pressure came up, but again fluctuated inconsistantly. No engine knock or unusual noises. Oil level good-changed in spring with filter-Mercury 25W-40. Any thoughts?

[Boat Doc']

You should confirm the temp and oil pressure with another source. If they are ok then the senders may be bad. The fact there is no unusual noises would indicate everything is ok. If the temp is cold then the thermostat should be changed.

[HntnFsh]

Boat Doc,
I got my 175 sj problems narrowed down to the stater.We put a new C.D.I. brand stater in and the boat ran great.But after about an hour of run time,the stater failed again..
Could there be another issue that would cause a stater to go bad.I've heard good things about C.D.I. parts.Maybe they arent as good as I've heard.Or do you suppose its just a freak thing,that it went bad,and that I'll be o.k. putting another in.
Thanks a bunch for your help.
Rick

[Boat Doc']

It's possible another component is shorting causing the stator to fail or shorting making you think the stator has failed. Check it with an ohm meter, if it's within specs then look elsewhere. If not replace it, it could be it got hot and gave up. We don't use after market parts because of warranty issues if they should fail. However other people use them with good results.

[Mr_sturgeon]

I have a 1983 26ft fiberform with a 350ci/volvo penta outdrive. When in forward the boat wants to pull to the left and tilts to the right. I am asuming it is a easy fix maybe adjust the tab above the prop but I don't want to pull it out of the water till I get other advice or maybe some other adjustments to do while out of water.
Any help would be great
thanks
Ken

[jdstrd]

BD-

I have two problems with my 05 mercs

1) 2005 150 stroke saltwater- the throttle cable popped out of the housing. Dont know how but now i cant get it to match up with tiller handle sticker,( start- fast). I runs but cant get it too match up w/ what the factory did.

2) My mxl 9.9 4 stroke shifts hard into foward , neutral and reverse. All the cables are lubed. What fixes this?

thanx for your time

[ripnlips]

Boat Doc

Still don't understand this. I wrote a couple weeks ago about my '03 Merc 60hp EFI 4 stroke getting up to only 3500 rpms at East Lake. My concern was that I didn't thing fuel injection would be that affected by altitude. Took it finally to the Willy yesterday and it ran fine.(5000 + rpm) Can you please help me understand what is happening with altitude? Thanks

[Boat Doc']

Move the trailing edge of the tab to the left about an 1/8th inch at a time until it neutralizes the steering pull.

[Boat Doc']

1) The brass barrel may not be tight on the shaft, if it's loose do not overtighten it.
2) If it's tighter than when new the easiest thing is probably to disconnect/remove components to isolate and repair the problem.

[Boat Doc']

There is an unrecoverable power loss as you gain elevation that affects all normally aspirated internal combustion engines, it would be advisable to carry a spare prop of the necessary pitch to allow the engine to run at or near its max rpms at the altitude you are running. This is normally 2-3 inches less than normal. The EFI system will keep the air fuel mixture correct but it does not compress the air to sea level specs.

[slabhunter]

Boat Doc',

My 48gal fuel tank in the '02 Alumaweld Intruder seems to be leaking at the top(center) of the sending unit. Would a bad gasket look like that? :whazzup:

Thanks,
Hans

[Boat Doc']

If it is leaking out of the center of the sender the sender needs to be replaced.

[steelhooked]

boat doc i have a 8hp mercury kicker (1990) it runs great but am finding some real black oil leaking from the prop area. is this usually a seal? if so how hard is it to fix?

[Boat Doc']

Check the lower unit oil to confirm it is full, if it's ok the oil is unburned oil you mix with your gas and is nothing to worry about.

[ripnlips]

Boat Doc...My Mercury owner's manual says I should tow with my 60 hp 4 stroke down. When I bought the boat, they said to tow it with the motor up. Your recommendation?

[Spoiled Daddy]

Good morning!

I have a 2000 model Honda 90 hp and discovered water in the oil yesterday. I had checked the oil before going out on Saturday and then again yesterday before putting the boat away and discovered the water problem. I changed the oil/filer after letting it drain for about 2 hours. I then ran the motor on the hose for about 2 hours and had no further evidence of water in the oil.

When we fished Saturday, I had 4 guys in the boat and at one point we were all in the stern and a wave washed over and filled the transom area and the motor almost went completely under the water. Could water have been sucked into the dip stick tube and contanminated the oil or do you think it is something more serious?

THANKS SD

[Boat Doc']

Tow with it down, if you don't have clearance, support it with a block of wood or a transom saver that attaches to the trailer

[Boat Doc']

Good morning, I would guess it came thru the exhaust, the cowl area is sealed pretty tight. Continue to check it after every trip, if you don't see it again I wouldn't worry. If you do then check engine temp,blown base gasket etc.

[Spoiled Daddy]

Thanks for the info. I will watch it verrrry closely!

SD

[wwjetboater]

Boat doc

I have a 15 hp Merc Big Foot I use as a trolling motor after trolling for a few hrs at low RPMs this motor seems to not want to IDLE in gear. I have Ran the motor hard for a about 10 to 15 minuts thinking it was loading up. I changed out the fule filter, changed out the oil water seperator, changed the plugs. NO luck do you have any sugestions.


thanks

[Boat Doc']

Make sure the idle speed is set to specs. Try adjusting the idle mixture richer or leaner. There is a brass plug on the side of the carb you will have to drill out for access. If it doesn't respond to adjustments remove and thoroughly clean the carb.

[HOOKUP]

Boat Doc,
My SJ 175 brand new today wouldnt run and fuel was flowing from the carbs down into the bottom of the boat after it started then died. I did get it to run some, but put it back on the trrailer because of this leaking or washing.
Is this a stuck float?
thanks

[Boat Doc']

Check the enrichener hoses and other fuel lines to make sure they are not cracked or broken. If they are ok then I suspect a float problem.

[wheatie]

Exhaust manifold torque specs, 4.3 V-6 . 40lbs.????

[Fish Mode]

Hey the all powerful Boat Doc, I have always wondered why with my 350 4-bolt chevy uses lead substitutes in addition to the gas I pump into it...I've seen on ebay engines with the same specs as mine (the 4 bolts) and year, but doesn't use any lead and can run on unleaded gasoline, I would appreciate any form of info you have on this issue. thank you very much Mr. Doc.

David

Oh, and what type/brand of lead substitute do you recommend if I had NEEDED to use it? :bowdown:

[Boat Doc']

My book says 20 for a Mercruiser

[Boat Doc']

Besides increasing octane the lead is also a lubricant for the valve seats . Most engines newer than around 1980 have hardened valve seats making the lead not a requirement. In short so long as you maintain the octane requirements and have hardened seats you can use unleaded fuel. I am not familiar with which additives are better than others. I would stick with a name brand.

[Spoiled Daddy]

Dear Boat Doc,

Good afternoon. Back to the 2000 Honda 90.

The water in the oil appears to be back, even after a oil/filter change and only an hour of running time. The oil is not frothy or gummed up, but very runny and an off green color. I ran it over 2 hours on the hose with no problem, but it appeared again after running it about an hour total (on the meter) while in the bay on Saturday.

Could this mean that there is just a little water getting in, possibly from the bottom drain plug washer being bad or ??? The bottom drain washer is plastic and doesn't look bad, but I have never changed it and I have done 8 oil changes since it went out of warranty 2 years ago. The motor has a total of 761 hours on it, it does not get run particularily hard and I do very regular maintenance.

I know it is hard to diagnose over the internet and I am very thankful for your help. :help:

SD

[Boat Doc']

If water was getting in past the washer oil should also be leaking out. Check to make sure the thermostat is operating- if the engine is running cold it could cause condensation. Beyond that you should probably take it to a dealer for diagnosis. The other thing is are you sure it's water and not fuel? It may be running to rich and diluting the oil. If this was the case the oil would smell like gas.

[Spoiled Daddy]

Thanks for the reply. Nope, no oil leak that is noticible and it does not appear to be increasing in volume that shows on the dipstick. The oil does not smell like gas, but it is very thin and discolored after even the hour I put on new oil/filter on Saturday.

I have made an appt at a local Honda dealer for tomorrow and hopefully will have some answers soon.

THANKS for your help and time!

SD

[WaterDog]

What is the difference between a non-bigfoot vs bigfoot 9.9hp kicker? Are the bigfoot motors supposed to have the same thrust as a 15hp or ????

[Boat Doc']

The bigfoot is a high thrust model, same gear case as a 25 horsepower but geared down.

[Freakwater]

Boat Doc,

Blowing the cobwebs out of a Johnson 115hp in prep for our B10 week. After many starts the motor stays running. Ran for a good 10 minutes with strong pee stream. Pee stream was cold for that 10 minutes. Then, when giving it some more rpms it looked as if the pee stream would sputter. Did it a couple times then went back to feel the pee stream. It was SCALDING HOT! I cut the motor quickly and a jet of steam came out the tell tale.

What's going on? I assume the from the pee stream that the water pump was working. First 10 mins, thermostat closed and water cool, then thermostat opens. But steaming hot water?

Could it be that the ear muffs were not delivering enough water? Something worse? How am I to know if it is over heating if the water pump appears to be working?

Freakwater

[Boat Doc']

It's possible it wasn't getting enough water with the muffs. If you havn't changed the water pump in a few years you may want to do it know for peace of mind. When running in the water if it is steaming the water pump needs replaced.

[Mikeymoto]

Boat Doc,
I have a 2003 175 sportjet. On the last trip out the starter didn't want to stay engaged to turn over the motor for but a very brief moment (the key wasn't turned to the off position between attempts). This happened several times in a row. The engine had been run for a while as we ran out to our spot and anchored.
When I turned the key to the off position and tried to restart it, no problem. Just a fluke? Or is it a sign of things to come? Less than 20 hours on the motor.
Thanks,
Mike

[Boat Doc']

Normally if a starter engages and disengages without the engine starting it would mean it is flooded or the ignition switch is bad, meaning that it loses contact. Turning the key to the off position shouldn't make any difference. The engine should crank in all areas of the start position. If it doesn't replace the switch. If the switch is ok and this happened on a warm engine after sitting it was probably left over fuel vapors and is not an issue.

[Mikeymoto]

Thanks Boat Doc. I appreciate it.
Mike

[8salmon]

Hello Boat Doc

I have a 1991 18ft Guide Model Alumaweld Sea Dory that I purchased new from Stevens Marine. I noted recently that after 8 hour of fishing I was taking on water, not much about two gallons would drain out when I opened the drain plug after pulling the boat out of the water. Well today I filld the boat with about two inches of water and found several cracks in the hull. Two cracks on the bottom of the hull and one about 2 inches up on the side of the hull. No evidence of damage but the cracks are adjacent or on seams. What are my options,and can Stevens Marine make these repairs?
:whazzup: :whazzup:

Thanks

[GUPPYSLAYER]

Boat Doc,

I have a 1992 Merc 25hp 2 stroke (serial# OD183641) which I've owned for a short period. The motor was not used much since being new and was regularly maintained. After my second trip, I noticed some black oil drip out from my output shaft opening. At the end of that 2nd trip, I tilted the motor while still in the water so it didn't have a chance to drain (diagonal) on the trip home. I put the motor vertical in my garage and maybe 2-3 tablespoons full of this black looking oil (mixed with water) dripped out. I drained out the gear case oil and it looked clear blue without any sign of water. Where can the oil be coming from? Any insite on parts needed and cost?

Thanks in advance

[Boat Doc']

You definitely need to get it fixed. We should be able to fix it. If you bring it to the Tigard store we can look at it and contact the factory for warranty authorization. If it hasn't been abused or corroded and you are the original owner it will probably be covered.

[Boat Doc']

If the gear oil is full then it's unburned oil you mix with your gas. You will see this more when trolling. If you run it hard for a few minutes after trolling it will clean the residue out. Only thing you can do is verify your mixture is correct, both air fuel and oil - gas. Probably nothing to worry about.

[8salmon]

Thanks Boat Doc,
I bought it new at the Clackamas store from Brad in 91. I'll take it in to the Tigard store soon and hopefully they will make it right.

[Billnoy]

Hi Boat Doc
I've got a 1998 Merc 8 horse stroke with the " oily residue" at lower end, and understand what it is, but this last weekend when I pulled the prop off to rinse out the motor there was also some tan colored stuff ( like water and oil mixed)down there too. I checked the oil in the lower unit and it was fine, any ideas?
Also, when I drop the lower unit to replace the water pump impeller, where do I disconnect the shift linkage?
Bill

[Boat Doc']

If the oil is ok then it's unburned oil you mix with the gas. If you run it hard before taking it out of the water it will flush it out. It is a normal buildup that you see more of when trolling for long periods. The clip for the shift linkage is located at the port side behind the carb. Just flip it up and pull it out to the side.

[KillerBeee]

Saturday 50 miles off shore with a buddy, his bug motor stopped while trolling for tune. Motor is a 1999 Suzuki 2 stroke 200hp. We looked at all the usual stuff. Fuel flow, cooling flow, and loose connectors. We had to cut our trip short and ran in on the kicker for a while. After about an hour,we tried and got the motor to re-start. When it wouldn't start, there was a check engine light on and a 4-2 beeep tone that came from the control panel. I'm sure that the 4-2 beep sequence was a check engine code, but in the manual there was no reference to codes, just the standard "Contact your local dealer" message.
After we got it restarted, we ran in about 1/2 way and slowed down to talk to the Coast guard and the motor quit again. Same 4-2 beep tone and no re-start. We waited for the Coasties and got towed in from 26 miles.
Does any one have reference for this motor? As it will likely take a while for the dealer to take care of it, we would like to get some info going to help expedite the repair.
Thanks,
Beeeeeee

[Boat Doc']

Not that familiar with the Suzuki, but a few ideas. Check the under cowl oil reservoir to make sure its full. Check the fuel for water and drain the filter if necessary. Check for overheat. Check all electrical connections. These should give you a good place to start.

[Son of an Okie]

Have a 135 hp Optimax Saltwater with a check engine light comes on at low RPM after it's been run for awhile and warmed up good. The check engine light goes away if RPMs are increased. Recently had the water pump changed out along with the temp sensor. Checked voltage back to the battery when running and have just over 14, so probably not an alternator issue. Engine is not missing, runs like a top at all speeds, so likely not an injector issue either in my thinking. Steven's looked at this last week and did the waterpump/temp sensor change. Fished 5 days out of Ilwaco with no issues. Came and ran 10 miles in the Columbia yesterday at top speed, pulled down to idle and got the light. Repeat performance after getting back to the dock. Any clues?

[fishchuck]

Boat Doc----I have a 2005 9.9 4stroke elect. l year old bought new from stevens---my problem is that after about 1 hour trolling my motor quits--i have to choke it and restart--i have replaced the fuel end that goes into the motor-- and even tried using the tank it came with --it is hooked up to my new boat as an trolling motor---after a few hours it starts doing it so much that i quit or use my 115 4stroke to troll with--this has been going on for a long time---i even put a fuel back flow valve on it to see if that was the problem---it flat runs out of gas, the squees ball seems to be holding presure it takes a couple of weeks to get stevens to look at this plus i live in salem--thanks for any help --fishchuck

[WAGS]

Dear Boat PhD….

Intermittent problems are always the worse…I will try to be brief.
Motor: 1997 Merc. Jet 80 (115hp)

- One year ago I had the drive shaft, liner, water pump repair kit replaced ($$$).
- First time out after repairs the engine would not start.
- Symptom: the starter motor would not engage the fly wheel. Starter motor would only spin.
- This had never happened prior to the repair job.
- Being in Scappose, I took it to the shop that did the work….
- They took the cowl off and decided the problem was the starter solenoid.
- Though upset for the $’s put out and an engine that wouldn’t work, I chocked it up to bad luck. Order a solenoid and 1 week later picked it up.
- Before I put the new solenoid on, I decided to try the engine one more time in the driveway.
- Engine fires immediately.
- I never replace the solenoid, use the motor through November and store it until April.
- No problems in April.
- Then business takes me away until August and two weeks ago I go to start the engine and same issue as a year ago. Starter Motor would spin but not engage the fly wheel.
- Thinking it is the battery I try jumping with my Truck. The motor turns over! My thought it must be the battery.
- Buy battery recharger and charge battery (needed charger anyway).
- Put in replacement Solenoid (why not). Put charged battery in, try engine same issue…spin, no engage.
- Take battery to Les Scwabb. They tell me that I need a Marine starting battery not a deep cycle battery…. even though my deep cycle had 93% charge. Buy the battery.
- Put in the new battery and still the same problem…Starter motor spins doesn’t engage flywheel.
- Ok. Last straw. I am going to put the old “newly recharged” battery in and try jumping again with the truck.
- Put the battery in. but before the jumping, I try the key. Shock! The starter motor engages the flywheel and engine turns over.
- Use the boat all weekend no issues. Starts every time with original battery.

Ideas? I want to me able to trust that the engine will start when I want to use it. If it does happen again, what can be done to solve the problem. One person suggested that perhaps there is an alignment issues between the starter motor and the fly wheel.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Wags

[Boat Doc']

Probably not to much you can check without the diagnostic tool. My first suspicion would be low battery voltage. If it was overheating it would sound a horn. I would check the battery and battery connections. Also check the rest of the sensors for bad connections paying close attention to grounds.

[Boat Doc']

If its dying and the carb won't take fuel you need to richen up the idle mixture. To do so drill out the plug that hides the screw and open the screw until the idle smooths out or it quits dying. If this doesn't work the carb will need to be disassembled and cleaned.

[Boat Doc']

Check voltage at the starter, it should be within about a volt of the voltage at the battery. If not check connections and cables. Disassemble starter and verify that brushes and armature are clean and intact. Lube bushings and starter drive. Check starter drive clearance in flywheel, if it appears to be binding shim the starter away from the block. Make sure you have a 9 tooth starter drive. Make sure you check the easy stuff first.

[Thunder jet]

Boat Doc-

I have seen some recent questions by folks considering switching to a synthetic 2cyl oil for there sport jet's. Is there a long term benifit to running synthetic in these motors? Can synthetic oil be harmful in this type of application? I am not real familiar with the use of synthetic oil. Any information you can share about it would be much appreciated. Thank You

[WAGS]

Thanks Boat PhD for your suggestions. Of course everything is fine now...always the way things are when you have an intermittent problem...impossible to debug until it happens again. I took volt readings at the starter and everything was good. Next time I have an issue that will be something I again check. Since the toothed gear is what was spinning but not raising up to engage the Flywheel, I am thinking that maybe it was not getting enough power also. Which means I could have a ground problem or a problem where the power is getting drained off. Thanks again I appreciate your willingness to help.

Wags

[Boat Doc']

People have been using synthetics for a long time with good results. Less smoke, less carbon and better running characteristics. As long as the oil you elect to use meets the manufacterers specs it should be fine.

[NWRedside]

Boat doc,
I just purchased a 2000 150 yamaha vmax a few weeks ago and had a jet and tiller put on it. I've only put about two hours on it since everything was rigged. Should I be concerned that I'm only getting 5100 RMP out of it at full throttle? I checked all the obvious things I could think of like making sure I'm trimmed correctly, getting full throttle with the linkage in the tiller arm, and making sure my bucket is all the way in the down position. I've been told that these motors should run at 5500-6000 rmp WOT. What other things should I check or should I be concerned about potentially something wrong with my new to me engine?
Engine is mounted on a 20' open woolridge sled.
thanks!
Nathan

[fishchuck]

Boat doc---Thanks for the reply, i have it at stevens now and they say it needs a new fuel pump-(warranty) fishchuck :applause:

[Paddler]

WAGS, I had the same problem ten miles off shore with my Mercury '98 50HP 4S. The starter motor would spin, and fast, but wouldn't engage. For some reason the gear wouldn't raise up to engage the flywheel. I put some oil on the shaft and it worked, which is good because after rope starting the motor it would have been a noisy trip back in with the cowl off.

I don't think it was related to the initial repair. Make sure you can easily raise the gear on the starter with your fingers, and you should be okay.

[stevo]

Boat doc'
Thanks for all the time you have put into this.

I want to add a second tilt/trim switch to my 115hp Johnson, mounted on the tiller. The motor was originally set up for remote, and the tiller is an aftermarket set up. Does someone make a tilt/trim switch or is any on-off-on marine grade rocker OK? Also, can I wire it in parallel so that both switches will still work?
Thanks

[USS Minnow]

Mr Boat Doc,
I have a 2005 Smokercraft Pro-Tracer 185 with a 90 hp Merc. I am adding a 12 Volt powerpoint to the dash and need some info on wiring it. I assume I could either go off of the unused Acc switch or directly off of the ignition switch. I would rather save the Acc switch for future use if possible. If I wire to the hot terminal on the ignition switch will I hurt anything and what size of fuse should I use to keep things safe. Perhaps there is another option I have not thought of. I would like to be able to pull as many Amps as safely possible.

Thanks for your good advice.. :applause: :bowdown:

[Boat Doc']

yes,yes,yes. We have some Mercury ones that are flush mount that would look good or any sealed 3 position momentary switch would work.

[Boat Doc']

I would recommend a power source wired direct to the battery with the appropriate sized breaker and wires for the amps you're going to draw. You can do this with a breaker or fuse panel mounted at the dash or a single breaker or fuse at the battery. Make sure when you run any wires that they won't chafe thru to ground and cause a short.

[Land Shark]

Hey Boat Doc. I have a '76 Hammond with a 233 hp 351 v8. I cracked the upper gear housing in the out drive and am trying to replace it with the housing from a '73(?) chevy Mercruiser 120 4cyl housing. Everything I can see looks exactly the same but I have been told the gear ratio in the upper housing is different in the 120 from my 233. Can I use my 233 gears in the 120 housing? and I am wondering if the lower unit on the 120 which looks indentical can be used as a spare or is there something different there that won't match up?

[steelhooked]

fixed the problem already.

[Nodakr]

Wags,same thing happened to me when I first bought my Willie w/91,115 merc on my 3rd trip out.Since I was by myself,sprayed the starter shaft w/allittle wd40,very carefully jumped the starter w/a screwdriver while lifting the starter gear slightly w/a needlenose pliers(again,very carefully)took right off and didn't happen again all day.When I got home I added a small amount of grease,the type used for my jet pump,and the problem has never returned yet.Good luck!!!!!

[Nodakr]

Do have acouple Questions for the Boat Doc',I have been having problems w/my 18' Willie,1991,115merc jet,not wanting to plane w/more than 2 people in it.I removed the shoe ass.acouple weeks ago to inspect.Found that the impellar was mushroomed and the insert on the shoe was pretty rough and pitted.I sharpened the impellar on the motor unit,I attempted first to remove the impellar w/everthing imaginable,1st tried a puller(3 prong),then added using 3 blocks of wood wedged behind each blade,then added heat gun and tried small hand torch,still would not budge!!!Since at the time it was right in the middle of salmon on the columbia and I didn't want to break the impellar,figuring I would try alittle more heat at a later date.Put the shoe back on and cked my clearance,which looks way too much,thinking I should have about 25-30 thousands and I probably have twice that.I can't believe the diffence it made in my takeoff planeing.I guess my question is this,any suggestions on removing my impellar and how much would it cost for a newshoe insert?Also I'm asuming if I do get the impellar off in one piece,I will need a new plastic bushing inside the impellar.I have several shims still at the lower end of the impellar so if I can get it off,I'm thinking I can reuse it.Your help would be very much appreciated!!!!Bruce.......

[Mr. Carp]

Dear Boat Doc,

We had a 20' Custom Sled built with a 6 degree bottom built on it. The area where the shoe lines up on the bottom of the boat is a flat area about a foot wide, then the deadrise goes out to each side.

My question is, we are mounting a 200hp 2001 Yamaha V-max jet on it. What is the recommend mounting height with respect to the shoe and the bottom of the boat. Do you make it flush or up a little or down?? There is about a 3" tab where the bottom extends past the back of the transom.

Thanks in Advance,
Ryan Musgrove

[INSAYN]

Doc,

I just got the motor back from the shop after getting the 10 hour breaking service completed. The motor has less power now, and blubblers like a rich running dirt bike.

It was running 50:1 mix in the fuel tank, and then mixed again 100:1 at the motor while breaking it in (as per Yamaha). Now it is just running straight fuel to the motor, and mixing 100:1 there. I did not get the impression that the jetting was ever touched, nor do I remember it saying to do so in the manual.

From my ATV days, if you decrease your fuel/oil ratio on a motor without rejetting, it will run rich. I lost nearly 1K RPM, and it won't get up on plane properly.

Edit: I fumbled around the manual and found that it has a listing for two different NGK spark plug types for this motor. However when I pop the cowl off the motor it has a label right on the base of the motor that says which plug to use.
NGK-B7HS-10

The two plugs in the manual are:
NGK-B7HS-10
NGK-BR7HS-10 (with resistor)

The label, the spares I picked up when I purchased the boat, and the ones that were in the motor when I purchased the boat, all say NGK-B7HS-10.

The plugs in there now are the NGK-BR7HS-10 (with resistor)
type. Would this cause the motor to lose power, and act like it running rich?

Thanks in advance,

INSAYN™

[INSAYN]

Thanks for waiting, I went ahead and troubleshot the situation myself. Kinda bummed at my dealer, but I got my motor running smooth again by replacing the plugs that the dealer installed (NGK-BR7HS-10 with resistor) by slapp'n in my spares that were the same as what came in the motor (NGK-B7HS-10).

Thanks,

INSAYN™

[Alsetz]

I have a 2002 Alumaweld Stryker with a 175 sportjet. It is stored outside with a fitted cover. Not the best situation, but's that's just the way it's going to be for the next few years. A couple of times I've lifted the dog house and observed the engine covered with condensed water which seems to me not to be a good thing. I've seen strip heaters used on standby generators to fight condensation. Is there a means to provide low level heat to the engine to prevent condensation. Or am I worried about nothing?

Thanks.

[backlash]

Boat Doc-
I have a 85 AWB Flat Bottom w/a 20" transom. I am planning on mounting a inline 115 w/20" shaft and a pump. I am having a riser welded up and need to know what height it should be. I understand that room needs to be left for adjustment, what is the appoximate height I should start with? Thanks in advance.

[GoFish]

Boat doc,

What do I need to switch out a pump for a prop on a 1998 Merc 65 Jet with a tiller handle? I think its a 90HP with the prop. Besides the lower unit and prop, what do I need to shift the thing?

[backlash]

?

[duckboy]

Dr,

I bought a 16 ft Alumaweld sled from you guys and a New 2004 40 Hp Jet OB (Merc)

It has been an outstanding boat and Super reliable motor.

I got a call from a friend of mine that apparently there is a recall, He got a letter indicating that a voltage regulator may be bad and it won't recharge the battery.


I haven't received any letter and want to be sure I am not subject to the recall.

When i got the outfit, the papers were filed from your Milwaukie area location. Is it possible that Merc sent my recall notice to your shop?


Please advise.
Todd Tennyson
360 713 3132

"

[salmonstalker 11]

boat doc, my question is, i own a 15ft alaskian smokercraft that has sat in salt water for most of it's life. the guy i bought it from said it was getting thin, witch is true. is the something i could put on the bottem of it to give it more protection and so i can get a few more years out of it?

thanks in advance

[Boat Doc']

The cover needs to be vented, You could use dri z air or a light bulb or other heat source in the engine compartment to keep it dry. If possible try to keep it dry.

[Boat Doc']

You want the top of the intake even with the bottom of the boat. Normally 27 inches

[Boat Doc']

Been on vacation, still need info?

[Boat Doc']

You could put coat it or gluvit on it, you need to flip it over to do it.

[GoFish]

Boat doc,

2nd request.

What do I need to switch out a pump for a prop on a 1998 Merc 65 Jet with a tiller handle? I think its a 90HP with the prop. Besides the lower unit and prop, what do I need to shift the thing?

[Boat Doc']

You're going to need to get the linkage that goes from the shift lever to the attaching point on the engine. Don't forget you also need a 5 inch spacer and possibly lower the motor about 2 inches unless you have a removable riser. Sorry for delay had to go out of town for a few days.

[Bartman]

doc, I want to install a windshield wiper on my 97 alumaweld intruder, can you tell me if I need a 60 or 80 degree windshield wiper system? thank you!

[Boat Doc']

You need 80 degree

[Bartman]

thanks doc :applause:

[trollin4trout]

Everything below the seal around the top motor cover is covered with gear oil. I've removed the lower unit and there doesn't seem to be any oil around the impeller housing- I haven't removed the impeller yet, but it doesn't look oily inside the outlet tube. Could there be a seal leaking below that allows gear oil into the impeller? I don't see how or where the oil is getting out of the bottom and being able to cover everyplace with oil up to the cover seal. Can you offer any ideas?

Thanks, Jim
********************************

Best thing to do is pressure test it to see where it's leaking. It may be engine oil from a leaking powerhead base gasket

********************************
It's not losing any engine oil and this is clearly heavy gear oil. In addition when I drained the lower unit there was less than half a cup that came out.

Can these two clues help you help me further? Thanks.

[Boat Doc']

There is a seal below the water pump, at the shift shaft and at the prop shaft. It is not uncommon for the powerhead base gasket to cause the problem you are describing. The oil being low in the gearcase may be a seperate issue. Remove the prop and check for line in the propshaft seals.

[trollin4trout]

Thanks, for the help- I'll check those things.

[Boat Doc']

In checking further the powerhead gasket is above the seal however the adapter plater that the powerhead bolts to is below it and it could be the problem. The solution is toi replace the powerhead and adapter plate gaskets and make sure you put gasket sealer on the surfaces.