Stevens Marine Boat Doc'

[Boat Doc']

Sorry for the delay, been on vacation. Sounds like battery voltage, loose connections or starter.

[Boat Doc']

Try to see where it is leaking and fix the bad seal or? If parts are not available you may have to replace the unit or try to find used parts.

[Boat Doc']

Bighugetrout, You will not see any performance gains and may in fact lose performance. If you are constantly running thru gravel and sand you would eliminate having to sharpen it all the time. Although you would still have to shim it as necessary.

[Boat Doc']

goodkarma, my first guess would be fuel, you might try squeezing the primer bulb, another possibility would be debris in a float bowl blocking a main jet- you could remove the float drains and flush some fuel thru the float bowls.

[Boat Doc']

Intruder, what an awesome boat, glad you like it. If you need anything let me know.

[bobber_boy]

Boat doc,
This weekend I was doing some maintenence on my dad's boat. I pulled the plugs and went to the local auto parts stores, but they didn't carry them. So the next day I went to a local marine dealer only to find that they have to be ordered and cost $16 a piece!!! :whazzup: I ended up cleaning the old ones and putting them back in. What makes them so unique?
2003 496 chevy

[Boat Doc']

they are probably platinum tipped electrodes, you could shop around and maybe find them cheaper. They should last around 700 hours or more.

[WAFishin]

BoatDoc,

I just bought a boat (1982) and original motor. I was told all of the maintenance was done through Stevens Marine. The problem is that the previous owner was told that the original motor (guessing it's a 1982) has a bad piston.
Model: E25TELCNB
Serial: E0077511

Is it worth the cost to fix the problem or should I look elsewhere for another motor? It's 25HP and would be nice to get it running again, but I don't know if it's going to be cost effective. Other than the piston the motor appears to be very clean.

Thanks in advance.

[Boat Doc']

It is a 1982. If you are going to do the repairs yourself it may be cost effective to repair vs. replace. It needs to come apart to evaluate the condition of what it needs to repair. If it just needs a piston and rings it should be relatively inexpensive to do yourself. Make sure if you repair it you also find and repair the cause, water pump, plugged carb or?

[bugboy]

Dear boat doc,

My engine seems to run fine at full throttle (85 Merc 60 HP) for about 3 to 5 minutes then dies. IT will idle after a few minutes but won't really fun fulll throttle. IF it sits a day or so the routine is the same. Spark seems to be okay. Fuel has been drained and sreens checked in botton of the tank. I'm now assuming it's the fuel pump or two carbs. The fule pump seems to be the logical culprit. I'll first try to put some carb cleaner through the carbs then try to clean the fule pump. Am I on the right track. Is there a way to narrow the issue further??? Any suggestions are appreciated. It's a new used boat that sat for some time. I would take it in but i just sunk over $800 into it to resolve electrical issues and am out of dough at least for now. :help: :bowdown: :help: :bowdown: :bowdown:

[Boat Doc']

If it starts easy and idles and accelerates smoothly after initial start up try squeezing the bulb to see if it keeps running. If it stays running good that would indicate a fuel pump problem. You can get rebuild kits for around ten bucks. If it idles poorly and bogs bad on acceleration try adjusting the idle mixture screws - it should run pretty good at 1 1/4 turns out from a lightly seated position, if it doesn't and engine is mechanically sound you may need to go thru carbs. Kits are also available for those relatively inexpensive

[ChuckDog]

Boat Doc,
I have a friend that owns a 1967 9.8 HP Mercury outboard that runs but it will not idle down. He can start it in neutral, then put it into gear - it starts to go then it sputters and dies. If he starts it in gear, it will run fine if he keeps the throttle on. However, it will sputter on the high end and eventually die if he slows it down to a trolling speed. Any suggestions on repair and/or who might be able to work on something this old? Any warnings on cleaning out the carb oneself with manual in hand?
Thanks!

[Boat Doc']

carb and fuel pump are very easy and would be the first place to start. Would also be a good idea to pull the flywheel and check points and insulaters tha coil leads fasten to. I don't know who works on older stuff- maybe some fellow ifishers may know of someone.

[suckerfish]

Dear Boat Doc.


I am currently feeling alot of grief. It seems something went wrong with my starter. Anyway, the after-math of the situation yeilded a chiped flywheel ring gear. and a slightly damaged started drive gear. The starter is the least of my problems! Is there a replacement ring gear avalible for these flywheels? In my distant past, I used to replace these gears on automotive flywheels. Will a standard automotive ring gear fit?

I am aware that I will have to pull the engine(NorthRiver). My engine is a Kodiak 350 coupled to a Kodiak 3 stage pump. What is the easiest way, or the best way to pull the engine without major dismantle? I would like to pull the engine with as much of the wiring and plubing intack as possible.

Thanks for taking the time to respond.

Grief stricken

suckerfish

[Boat Doc']

It is a standard ring gear- make sure you match it correctly, Kodiak in Tualatin can help you or a automotive machine shop. I think you can get ring gears thru NAPA. Kodiak may have flywheels laying around you might be able to get one cheap, wouldn,t hurt to ask. The engine comes out easily by unbolting the front and rear mounts and disconnecting battery cables and fuel line. The wiring harness should just unplug.

[Stowaway]

Hey Boat Doc,
My control box skwaks(weird sound)every few minutes and is annoying as heck and kinda loud. It's similar to the sound of when you turn the key over. :help: Is this an indicator of some sort? :shrug: I have a 85' 90hp Evinrude and is my first motor of this size. I've ran probably over 40 miles with it doing this. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

[Streetwalker]

Doc,
I have a 01' Marine Power 5.7 TBI. coupled to a Hamilton 212 pump. Marine power recommends straight 30 or 40 weight oil depending on outdoor temps its running in. I would like to run synthetic but can only find multi viscosity. would it be OK to run say a 20 - 50 multi visc synthetic or should I stay w/ the straight wieght regular oil. Also recently on hot starts only I notice a considerable lag between start & oil pressure build up, at times I can even hear the valve train till the oil gets up there. On cold starts pressure builds right away. This engine setup runs 2 filters & I have been using Purolater pure one filters w/ anti drainback valves, dont know if they help or not. Would synthetic help cure the pressure buildup issue? Or do I have a problem w/ the oil system here.

[Boat Doc']

Sounds like a sensor in the oil tank sensing low oil or a sensor in the oil pump sensing low oil flow. You need to get a service manual for detailed testing or take it to somebody who works on them.It could also be overheating or simply a faulty sensor. If oil tank isn't empty I would strongly recommend checking oil pump output. - it is part of the fuel pump.

[Orion]

Boat Doc,

I have a 200 Merc Optimax Sportjet that is about 18 months old. From time to time it will "gallop" or slowly surge faster/slower/faster etc. at around 1,000 rpms. This can happen after a brief warm up, or after running for a while. Any ideas?

By the way...Thank you very much for all you do to help Ifishers with our various boat related challenges.
Orion

[Boat Doc']

A few things can cause that. one is the link that attaches to the tpi may have slop in it causing the ecm to change timing as it moves. another thing might be back pressure in the exhaust system. if the water starts leaving the transom area at that rpm then back pressure is reduced resulting in a rpm change. this can be more pronouced on boats with a swim step. the linkage is repairable, the exhaust is not. you may have to get used to running at a different rpm if it goes away.

[Orion]

Doc,

Thanks for the speedy reply. What is a tpi, and what is an ecm? With that information I can probably find the right linkage and do some investigating.

All the Best,

Orion

[Boat Doc']

throttle position indicater, linkage controls air valve (throttle butterfly) opening, sends info to Electronic control module which controls spark advance, fuel and air injectors, timing etc.

[Orion]

Doc,

Thanks for your help. I will see what I can do. By the way, I do have a swim step so I am hoping for a sloppy linkage. If not, I just won't idle around at 1,000 rpm's!

Thanks again,

Orion

[Spindrifter]

I have a 2.5 LTR 1992 175 ELPO Mercury 2 stroke outboard. It came with the boat I just bought. Question is, is there supposed to be a port for water to squirt out of to show that the water pump is working on this model? In the area under the cowl, on the rear of the engine, there is a 1" wide port there that smells like exhaust and has black soot inside. I assumed at first that this was the port but nothing comes out of anywhere above the waterline. It hasn't overheated or anything, I just want to make sure something isn't plugged, or the impeller broken.....Thanks!

[Talljeeper]

BD, gotta a coupla questions for ya.
1)I have a 75 Model 140 4 popper. She stumbles off idle. I looked for an accelerator pump adjustment but could not locate one. I notice the carb did NOT have an aluminum tag like every other carb I have rebuilt in the past. I smoothed out the best I could. I seem to recall something about power valves being prone to failure on this model..suggestions?
2)I installed yhe pertronix electonic conversion, pretty straightfoward (you really have to tap the isolator down to fit, it is VERY tight) and I went to time the motor. Guess waht the timing tab has all the numbers rusted off. I tried to recall my Chevy tuning days and referenced the edge (facing front of motor, looking down at tab, used the edge as Zero) and set the motor to an estimated 6 degrees. Am I close?
Thanks In Advance
Talljeeper

[Boat Doc']

Yes there is a tell tale. It is on the starboard side of the lower rear cowl.The other hole is a back pressure releif. You will only see water coming out of it above 1800 rpm. The tell tale gets plugged easily by sand or debris, and may not pee all the time on your model.

[Boat Doc']

The carb is just a Rochester 2bbl. There is no pump adjustment however it is very important that all passages are clear. If it is badly corroded inside it may need to be replaced. The timing is set at 6 btdc, which when veiwing as you described should be the third mark down from the top.

[Spindrifter]

Still no telltale at 2000 rpm. Does the thermostat have to open for it to draw the water up?
Well, anyway I decided to take the lower unit off to get my speedo working. Checked the water pump at the same time. Pump housing was scored and impeller chewed a bit. So that means a new kit is going in. Just wanted to confirm the shaft rotation is clockwise while looking at the end of the driveshaft since I'm unsure the person who rebuilt the motor installed the waterpump impeller correctly. My shop manual says to turn the shaft clockwise while installing the new impeller(no picture), is that looking at the end of the shaft or from the bottom of the lower unit? Thanks!
RE: 1992 ELPO 175 Mercury 2 stroke outboard

[Boat Doc']

Looking from the top, if it's a new impeller even if its installed the wrong way it will straighten itself out. Make sure you line up the shift shaft correctly on reassembly and watch the water tube go into the guide.

[Pickles]

Dear Boat Doc, I was reading on a sportjet forum about removing the baffles from the exhaust on the 175 hp sportjet, and that it would free up a couple hundred more rpms. My question is would doing this over a long duration, possibly cause any damage to the powerhead?

Pickles

[Boat Doc']

I would think a couple hundred rpm won't mean much in speed unless you're racing. The additional noise would be something to seriously consider. Personally I would leave it alone.

[Bait O' Eggs]

Doc, I am rigging a new boat and when I got to the fuel line I went to NAPA and got some fuel hose. I heard tonight that hose may not be rated properly for marine use. :shrug: Do I need some fancy marine fuel hose for my 225 HP Honda outboard motor? :whazzup:

[Okie]

If the hose is suitable for gasoline and used in anyway for this purpose it is satisfactory for your boat. So use it as there isn't any marine regulations for boats that I'm familiar with that specifies fuel hose types. :cheers:

[Pickles]

There are specific coast gaurd requirements for fuel line in regards to inboard motors such as a sportjet or V8, but as far as I know outboard motors do not have the same requirements.

[Boat Doc']

Any fuel line that runs under the deck must meet Coast Guard regs. If it is exposed it can just be a alcohol resistant line of the correct diameter.

[Pete]

Boat Doc'
I was filling the fuel tank on my Intruder this afternoon and noticed some clear, jelly-like condensation around the inside of the filler tube. What is this stuff? Should I do something about it? Should I worry about it? Can I spread it on toast? :smirk:

[Boat Doc']

It's some kind of chemical reaction and it should be replaced, we have replacements available.

[Pete]

Replace what, the jelly stuff? The filler neck? The gas? I'm confused. It looks like the normal condensation inside the filler neck, except it's gelatinous. I wiped it out with a paper towel. It isn't corroding or eating into the neck.

[Bait O' Eggs]

Pete, I think he was saying the boat needs replaced :laugh: :laugh: I would be leary, as I think he is planning on splitting the commission with the sales guy :wink:

[Thunder jet]

Boat Doc

What is your opinion on using synthetic 2 stroke oil?

Thank You

[Boat Doc']

What I was refering to would be corrosion on the filler neck which makes it look white and gooey. If your not seeing that tell your buddys to quit blowing their nose in the fuel fill

[Boat Doc']

Lots of people have used it over the years with good results, I haven't ever seen an engine failure that could be blamed on it. I think the only reason the manufactures say not to is because their name isn't on the bottle.

[Neptune]

I just changed the oil in my 50 horse and 8 horse both (2004)for the first time and put in 20% of lucas oil with 10/40 motor oil and wonder if anyone else does this. there seem to be a little metal flake (very little) when draining the oil but the oil was good color for the break-in stage
and what up with $12 oil filters

The 8 horse will not lock down when put in reverse
and raise's out of the water, is there an easy ajustment to this problem or do i need to bring it in.

[Boat Doc']

Oil filter price equates to limited production, not like other engines that have millions in use. If your 8 horse is a four stroke it needs to come in for a new part. If its a 2 stroke it should be a adjustment of the clamp that attaches to the shift shaft that activates the reverse lock hooks- just slide it donw to where it locks but releases when in forward.

[Spindrifter]

Boatdoc,
I have a 1992 Honda 8hp 4 stroke kicker motor. It doesn't spit water from the tell-tale. I checked out the tell-tale hose and fitting and it's all clear. I decided to drop the lower unit to make sure the impeller was ok. It looks brand new. Screen at the draw tube is clear as well as all the passages in the lower unit area. If air is blown up from the bottom tube at the lower unit, should air come out the tell-tale hose? It doesn't. Is there a valve or something in between? I'm at a loss here and scared to run it with no water flowing.....Thanks in advance.

[Boat Doc']

If the motor isn't pumping water then it would blow air or steam from the pee hole. If the water jacket doesn't get so hot you can't touch it then it is pumping water and the pee hole passage is plugged. If it does get hot then I would look at water tube seals, impeller key or more unlikely a blown head gasket.

[boaten]

Boat Doc'
I am looking at an 18ft fishing boat that has a early 90's mercury. It has been up in the Seattle area. It looks very clean and runs well but how concerned should I be with it's use in semi-salt water? Is there some things I can look out to access how it has held up (and been cared for) in that environment?

[blubeast]

I've put my 15hp kicker on my 21' boat as a backup for trips on the salt. Unfortunatly after several rough trips out, I noticed the bar that locks into the side slots to hold the motor tilted up have become bent and as a result the bar does not slide from slot to slot as the motor is raised.

Can this bar be easily replaced, or how would you recommend resolving this problem?

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

[Pandion]

Boat Doc,

I posted this in the forum but noticed it wasn't directed at you so I am repeating it here in your thread hoping for an answer.

Thanks for your help.




In September I took my 115Hp Suzuki (2 stroke) in for a tuneup. The motor was running rough at idle. $1500.00 later I got the boat back in late October. The mechanic showed me where a screw had worked loose under the flywheel and had shreded the magnets in the flywheel. This past weekend was the first time I was able to take the boat out and the motor was still running rough. I took it back to the shop and was able to stay and watch while the mechanic troubled shooted the problem. (I guess I already paid the price of admission to be able to observe.)

He checked the gas, though he said it was old (I last filled up in mid September), there was not water in the gas.
He noticed a milky fuel mixture collecting at the throat of the carburetors and thought that water was getting into the fuel. He dipped the substance and it came back negative for water. He checked the filters and no water, and then checked the oil tank and found no water. He did find a minor fuel leak at an in-line filter.

He indicated that there was no water jackets in the front of the head that would cause any water to mix with the fuel unless it was coming from the gas or oil but all test came back negative.

I saw the condition of the old flywheel and don't doubt that some performance problems were attributed to the electonics being damaged under the flywheel but I saw little improvement in the performance of the motor after they changed out the parts. The motor is ten years old but I estimate it has less than 100 hrs on the engine.

I left the motor for further trouble shooting but I'd like to your thoughts into the potential problem?

[Boat Doc']

Take the covers off and look for corrosion around gaskets, electrical connections and engine block. One that was well cared for or had low hours would have little if any of the above

[Boat Doc']

yes you should easily be able to straighten or relace the slides. It would be strongly recommended to use a block of wood or a bar or some other means of supporting engine as the other stops are not desighned for trailering or when using.

[Boat Doc']

One other thing I forgot to mention is power trim. Expensive but eliminates your problem

[Boat Doc']

The moisture in the carb throats is just condensation and will be more noticable on high humidity days. Assuming the engine is in good mechanical condition and has good spark on all cylinders the most common problems would be
timing, sheared flywheel key or misadjusted
carb synchronization
debris in carbs
broken reed valves

A symptom of a broken reed would be fuel spitting back thru carb at idle in gear in the water. Best observed by using a timing lite attached to plug that carb effects. If it sprays back the reed is bad.

[Spindrifter]

Finally got my rebuilt 175 Mercury outboard broke in on the used boat I just bought. The problem is, when I run at full throttle all is good for about 2-3 minutes then it suddenly dies. It doen't sputter or anything it just dies suddenly. It starts right back up fine and runs at part throttle great. The motor seems to be tuned well,no hesitations or anything. The pump ball stays hard when it dies also.... :shrug: any ideas?

[Boat Doc']

When it restarts does it crank for awhile? Does it crank like the battery is dead at first? If the answer to the first question is yes it may indicate a fuel problem- try another fuel source. If the answer to the second question is yes it is probably overheating and trying to seize. If none of the above then you may need to see a dealer to check ignition outputs

[Spindrifter]

What would be another symptom of overheating? :depressed: I don't want to seize it obviously!Doesn't a 1992 Mercury 175 have an overheat alarm? Any way to check to see if the overheat alarm works properly?.. Scary... It does seem to turn over easily after the die and starts immediately so maybe it is something else.

[Taylor's viewpoint]

Boat Doc, A big thank you to your organization..I needed my boat repaired to take my navy grandson fishing while he is on leave later this week and the shop came thru for me. The problem was one of those intermittent electrical problems that can be a B to find but Tom found the loose connection and made the repairs. I will now be able to take the grandson and his shipmate fishing. Thanks to Tom and Scott.
George Taylor

[Boat Doc']

yes it does have a overheat alarm, you can check it by using a jumper wire from brown wire that comes from the starboard head to ground with the key on. The horn should sound. It doesn,t sound like it's overheating or fuel. Other than checking all the electrical connections you may have to take it to a shop.

[Boat Doc']

Thanks for the heads up, I will make sure to let them know

[bobber_boy]

Boat doc,
thank you for all of your help.
:applause:I Have just bought a 1984 merc 9.8 2 stroke. I am curiouse if you think it would be a safe idea to put it on my boat. here are some specs:
Length 12' / 365 cm
Beam 48" / 122 cm
Max. Capacity 420 lbs / 191 kg
Max. HP 6
Weight 136 lbs / 62 kg
Hull Material Ram-X®
I bought it because it might be nice to have a little more power when I have a passenger with me.

[Boat Doc']

The first thing I need to say is you will be exceeding the Coast Guard recommended limits for the application. However the weight between a six and 9.8 is very little. Stability at high speed and structural integrity are the main concerns. Do it at your own risk and if you do it use care and caution.

[bobber_boy]

thank you for the help. On the same 9.8 merc, when I bought it, the lower unit was shot. I removed the 2 bolts holding it on, but it wouldn't come off. any thoughts?

[El-Kabong]

Hi Boat Doc,

I was checking to see if there were any issues that I should be aware of before removing the forward control connections to my '89 60 hp merc. In looking at the connections within the motor it seems straight forward.
Moving the motor to another boat.

Thanks

Michael

[Boat Doc']

normally the front stud can get stuck from corrosion, apply some heat and you should be able to force it down

[Boat Doc']

everything unplugs or unclips at the engine. note which cable goes where and put it back together the same as you took it apart.

[timinthegorge]

Boat Doc..... I bought my new 19' Stryker from you folks in July of '02. The following summer I took it in for a "full meal deal" tune-up on the motors (90-2stroke, and 9.9-4stroke Mercs). It was expensive ($600), but I felt it was important since it was the first time I'd had the motors looked at after break-in.... even though it's quite a long drive down to Tigard, and I had to stay in a hotel overnight so I could pick it up the next day.....

I've found a local guy who's a legitimate merc mechanic, and I'd like to have him service my motors. Will this in any way void my warranty? Do you have any concerns, or suggestions? Any help would be appreciated..... thanks, Tim

[Boat Doc']

So long as the recommended maintenance is performed you will not void any warrantys. Make sure to keep your receipts and also that services are itemized parts and labor.

[timinthegorge]

Will do.... Thanks Boat Doc!!

You da' Bomb!!! :wave:

[Eastside Dave]

Boat Doc,
I just arrived at the coast for Christmas vacation, took the dory out of the garage ('86 60 horse merc), and to my dismay the steering is 'frozen' - it won't budge. Nope, I did not lube the steering when I stored it away in late August; my mistake!

Any suggestions as to how to un-freeze the steering? Would greasing the unit help un-freeze it?
Thanks and Merry Christmas!
Dave

[Boat Doc']

Sometimes you can free it up by holding pressure on the wheel- not so much that you break the gears and give the motor a good solid kick the direction you are trying to turn. Don't hurt your self. If that doesn't brake it loose the next thing is to drive the cable out with an air hammer, being careful not to damage the end.

[Eastside Dave]

Thanks Doc!
the 'put pressure on the wheel' while slightly kicking the motor did the trick. I lubed her up and it won't happen again!
Merry Christmas!
Dave

[cwh]

Ok, I posted to the wrong thread...rookie mistake.

Dear Boat Doc, if you're still out there...

I just bought my first boat. It came with a mid 70's (I think) 25hp evinrude. I noticed some oil leaking out of the shaft, so I got to looking and noticed some creamy colored stuff around the lower unit grease fill plug. I drained the lower unit, and it was all white. I noticed that the fill plug was not seated really tight, but I don't know if that's how the water got in.
What should I do besides filling it with good grease and running it to see if it gets milky again?
Thanks!
-cwh

[Boat Doc']

I would remove the prop and remove any fish line that may have accumulated and fill it with fresh oil. Keep an eye on the condition of the oil and change it as necessary. Unless it is running out oil is a lot cheaper than repairs.

[bobber_boy]

Boat doc,
I went on a boat ride earlier this year in my dad's 2003 northriver inboard. for some reason, the steering was very stiff, so I pulled out the repair manual for the hamilton 212 pump and started looking for reasons why. It says the steering cables need to be greased yearly. oops :blush: I looked at it, it has like a hose. I didn't un screw it from the pump because I didn't know if it was a fluid system or cable. do I un-screw them and oil them, or look for a fluid tank on the steering assembly? :help:

[Boat Doc']

It's just a mechanical push-pull cable. You can try greasing the aft end of the cable, if that doesn't fix it you may have to replace it.

[bobber_boy]

I un hooked the cable, and it moved smooth and freely; I hooked it back on, but it was still stiff. is there any areas on the pump that needs to be greased? Zerc (sp) fittings, bearings, ect....

[Boat Doc']

with the cable disconnected see what is stiff and free it up, Suspect the nozzle bushings need to be removed and clea.ned

[reelfine]

Hey Boat Doc'-

I have a 2005 Yamaha Jet (F115/80hp), and I was wondering if they have a stainless steel impeller for that model?

Thanks-
Jay

[Boat Doc']

Yes they are available. They run 425.00. You may lose performance due to the additional weight. I would advise seeing if anyone has experience with that setup before investing the money. I know on Mercury 2 strokes it doesn't help.

[wetaline]

Boat Doc -

With a large outboard jet (225) tiller up on plane - is there a natural pull to one side or the other? I'm starting to think mine is pulling more than the average. If I was to let go It would imediately go into a sharp right turn.

thanks for the help and advice on the fix

[reelfine]

Ok, thanks, that is the first I have heard about losing performance when moving to a stainless steel impeller. I was told that it would probably help with holeshot and top end on plane. How much weight would it add over the standard impeller?

[Boat Doc']

On the V-6 engines they offer a tremendous improvement, on the smaller ones the can decrease performance. Weight difference is 5.5 lbs.

[Denali]

Doc,

I have an 18ft Super Vee centerconsole with the sportjet. I live on the eastside so it is much colder over hear. Anway my last two trips out both the steering and the throttle were fozen up. They are fine in my shop (warmer) but when introduced to the cold the were both locked tighter then a drum. Can you guess at what might be causing this? Also in my impatience, working the wheel back and forth trying to free it up I snapped something. Is their a shear pin in the steering cable or did I possibly break the cable.

[StinkyH]

BoatDoc -

I haven't been able to locate this info in the manual or online.

When I start my 175 SJ, I turn my key 5 times to on and off, back and forth and it beeps each time... I then hold it in for 10 seconds and try to fire it up. I read that you advised that people push in the key once in a while while it's just been started and running cold to keep it going.

My questions are:

What happens when when the ignition key is turned from off to on and I hear the beep?

What does pressing in and holding the key do when the engine is not running?

What does pressing in and holding the key do when the engine is running?

Thanks!
StinkyH

[Boat Doc']

the bellows that seal the cables are probably cracked or broken, if you let it sit in the water for 10 or 15 minutes it would probably unthaw. If something snapped it is either the steering wheel key or more commonly the cable or the rack inside.

[Boat Doc']

Answers in order
Warning system resets, it beeps once with key on to let you know it's working
pressing in the key with a sport jet does nothing, the enrichening system is automatic. It works off engine temp.
The advice you saw was for non sport jet carbureted engines.

[StinkyH]

Answers in order
Warning system resets, it beeps once with key on to let you know it's working
pressing in the key with a sport jet does nothing, the enrichening system is automatic. It works off engine temp.
The advice you saw was for non sport jet carbureted engines.



North River gave me that advice. *shrug* Guess I'll follow that SJ mod you posted to hold the key in to run the fuel pump.

Just to confirm - turning the key on DOES NOT cause a squirt of fuel to aid starting?

Thanks for the reply!

StinkyH

[Denali]

Doc,

Re: SportJet

Sitting in the water for over 4 hours failed to produce a thaw?? I will replace the bellows again. Is there a chance that water has penetrated deep into the cables? Any way to drain??

[Boat Doc']

That is correct, nothing happens in stock form until engine is cranking.

[Boat Doc']

Steering and shift cables could have water travel up the cable but not the throttle cable as it is located inside the boat. You could try compressed air to blow them out or filling them with grease but it would be difficult. Only other option would be replacing the cable making sure you eliminate the source of the water intrusion.

[StinkyH]

Great - thanks, BoatDoc!

Appreciate your time.

StinkyH

[James in Idaho]

Ok, 2000 135 Merc, 6 cly, carb with a jet foot. Stainless impeller. One time out it runs like a champ, topping at about 5600 rpm. Next time cannot get it above 46 to 4800 rpm. Have checked all linkages, fuel lines, filters, pickup, and there is nothing in the jet nozzle. Any ideas what would cause this? Using fresh gas, and merc oil (injected). Has us stumped (not all that hard to do). :help:

[Boat Doc']

Two things come to mind, assuming throttle linkage is moving all the way and compression is good it's probably a bad ignition component or debris in a float bowl plugging a main jet. You would need to isolate it to a cylinder then check for spark while it's failed. Also check to make sure the reverse bucket is locked all the way down when in forward.

[Pandion]

Boat Doc,

Back to the motor problem with a 1995 115hp Suzuki. They isolated my motor problem to one bad carb but now apparently a replacement carb. is no longer made. They described the problem as the carb was popping.

Is it possible that parts can't be found for a 10 year old motor?

[Boat Doc']

If a carb is popping it would mean that the cylinders or cylinder that it controls is lean. This could be caused by leaking gaskets or seals, improper linkage adjustments, mixture screw incorrectly set or the carb being plugged. It is possible the manufacturer no longer offers the carb, there is salvage outfits that deal in used parts here in town or if you search the internet there is a bunch of places around the country. Hope this helps.

[STARK.]

Boat Doc-

Interested in putting a battery charging system on my merc 25 hp (gt123763) How many amps does that system put out and what all is required?
thanks doc.

[Boat Doc']

It puts out 5 amps at speeds above about 3000 rpm at idle it's closer to 1 amp. System is unregulated. Requires a lighting coil part #42282A4 and a rectifier part #62351a10. Requires removing flywheel to install components.

[bobber_boy]

Boat doc,
Thank you for your time. the steering on my hamilton 212 pump is very stiff. I removed the steering cables and have isolated the problem to be on the pump. Is there something I need to grease, or is it something a mechanic needs to do? thanks.

[Boat Doc']

The pivot pins probably need to be removed and the bushings cleaned or replaced. You should be able to do it yourself, it may require some heat.

[reelfine]

Hey Boat Doc'-

I've replaced a prop on a two-stroke before, but the Yamaha T8 High-Thrust is a little different. I read through the manual, but it doesn't mention which way the prop nut turns to loosen (and its pretty tight, so I don't want to force it). It also mentions that when you install the new prop, to tighten the nut to the correct torque, but doesn't mention what that torque should be.

Can you help me out?

Thanks-
Jay

[Boat Doc']

It's standard thread, torque to 15 ft lbs

[fish assassin]

Dear Boat Doc,

I own a pair of MerCruiser 250hp D-tronic diesels. Over the weekend we found a problem
that required removing a couple of hoses which dumped a considerable amount of the
anti-freeze. The Merc manual specifies that I use Merc anti-freeze. Is there an after
market anti-freeze I can use for this application that will not void my warantee?

Thanks,
Mark L. Roberts
F/V Pacific Mistress
Depoe Bay, OR

[Boat Doc']

Cummins now takes all the diesel calls for MerCruiser. Try them at Cummins NW. 503-289-0900

[fish assassin]

Thanks. I called Cummins and they sent me to thier local coastal rep and he sent
me to Newport Diesel. Got what I needed. Thanks again.

~assAssin~

[Pandion]

Carb Popping,

BoatDoc,

Just to give you an update on the 155hp Suzuki that was having carb. problems. After disassembling the # 2 Carb, the mechanic found a small (1/8") tube that was broken. He replaced the tube (a $4.00) part and I took the boat out today and it appears to be running fine. This repair from hell took 5 months and after replacing some other parts earlier (now I wonder if they really needed replacing. The total repair was about $2,000.00. I think in the future, I'll be taking the motor to a authorized Suzuki repair facility who has the right diagnostic equipment.

[Geemo]

While trolling we have the TR-1, depth finder, and a few other things running off the batteries.

I would like to have the 2002 9.9 Merc 4-stroke kicker tied into charge the batteries while trolling.

Is this possible? If it is, what should I purchase from Tigard Steven's?

Thank you

Geemo

[Boat Doc']

You would need a wiring kit part #856558a2 it's in stock- about 36.00. The motor already has a 6 amp system, you just need to hook it to the battery. At slowest speeds it should at least keep up with battery draw and any speed above idle would be charging above draw.

[Geemo]

regarding the battery/charger for our 2002 9.9 Mercury kicker.

I've been to Steven's and the part is on the kicker. We took it for a spin yesterday and everything seems to be working just fine.

Thank you for helping us out.

Geemo

[Vegetarian]

Boat Doc, I am new to this site, but it seems to be the best site around for technical problems and questions. Last year I bought one of Boice Jet's last boats prior to knowing the problems with them. After taking ownership I noticed there were no manuals. They promised to ship them to me and then....well, you know the rest of the story. My question is: Do you know where I can get a manual for a Vortec 6000? This is a link to the engine in my boat.
http://www.kemequipment.com/vortec6000.html I tried getting a hold of KEM for a manual, but got the run around. Also, the cylindar radiator on top of the engine should be full right? The plastic overflow bottle is at the right capacity, but when I open the cylindar, It is a little low. I am assuming a good quality antifreze mixed 50-50 with water. Thanks for your time.

[pythonwill]

Ok Doc,
This is my first boat, the motor is a 1978 Johnson 70hp, I had some work done to it last year and it has been running great, then last summer, I was out fishing and when I went to leave it wouldnt fire up, it just backfired and nothing. then the key wouldnt even turn it over(Like no power) So I pulled the cover off and tried to jump the solinoid and it would only fire andshortly after backfire & die. do you think this could be in the control handle ar is it something else? any help would be nice.

Will

[Boat Doc']

there is a manual, we will have it wed - cost you what it cost me, nothing. contact the tigard parts department wed afternoon and they can ship it to you or hold it for pickup. The coolant level is ok at 1 inch or so bewlow the neck, it will expand when hot.

[Boat Doc']

so far as the key not functioning it sounds like the fuse may have blown or bad or loose battery cables or connections. the running issue sounds like it is either out of gas, comtaminated gas or if it backfires without running possibly a sheared flywheel key.

[Vegetarian]

there is a manual, we will have it wed - cost you what it cost me, nothing. contact the tigard parts department wed afternoon and they can ship it to you or hold it for pickup. The coolant level is ok at 1 inch or so bewlow the neck, it will expand when hot.



Sorry Doc, I should have been more clear. I live in Sacramento CA. I am not too familiar with that area up there. Do you have the phone # or the full business name for Tigard? I am happy to pay shipping and for the manual. Wow, thanks so much.

[HntnFsh]

Boat Doc'
You never cease to amaze me.I hope everybody on here appreciates your service like they should.We are extremely lucky to have your skills and knowledge on this board.My hat is off to you and Stevens Marine.
Thank you very much.
Rick

[Boat Doc']

number is 1-800-225-7023 ask for parts

[Boat Doc']

Thanks for the support, so far it's still fun

[ET]

Hey Boat Doc? Anyone say thank you lately?

Almost a year ago I asked you about my 70 hp Yamaha that was "sneezing" at idle. You suggested backing the idle mixture screw out 1/8 of a turn at a time and see if that helped. I just decided to give it a try. 1/8 turn was better, and 1/8 more did the trick. No more sneezing!

THANK YOU! It was so easy, I feel stupid now. Wish I would have done it last year!. Great service you give here!

[moman]

Boat Doc, last weekend I was running a little over 20mph and suddenly lost propulsion. This is a 1999 Honda BF130 4-stroke, 178 hours, on a Hewes 20 SeaRunner by the way. The motor sounded fine and revved a little because presumably it wasn't pushing the prop. Trim was all the way down. The lever on the engine appears to "engage" when I throw the thottle forward, the linkage is firm and all appears to be in order there. Gears on the prop spindle look fine as did the gears on the prop which, on the Honda stock prop, are brass. I did find 10 yards of 20-lb. PowerPro wrapped about the clutch washer (I think that's what its called) that sits under the prop. But, it appears out of the way and while it shouldn't have been there, it's hard to imagine that was the problem. I was able to turn the prop with the engine in gear, but only back and forth 1/2-inch measured at the outside diameter of the prop. I replaced the prop with my new spare. And I'm going for a test drive. Its been suggested I have a spun prop, but from what I understand, that's the loss of the gearing on the inside of the prop, no? Any thoughts. Thanks

[Boat Doc']

the prop has a inner rubber hub that has probably failed. if it works ok with your spare you can take the prop to your local prop shop for a new hub

[Prawnasorus]

Boat Doc.

I have a 1995 Merc 9.9 4 stroke, using it on my 10' duckboat, It has been running then sputters and slows to idle,sputtering then a few seconds later it takes off again.
Lately it will run 20-60 second (full throttle) sputters 5-6 seconds then will take off again. Repeats this cycle . The plugs are golden \brown, primer bulb is full when this happens, inline fuel filter is full as well. (gas is fresh) any ideas?
Thanks

[snit]

Heres' another THANK YOU to the boat doc'!!!! I really enjoy reading the forum, and your knowledge never ceases to amaze me!!! Keep up to GREAT work!!!! :bowdown: :cheers:

[baitslinger]

Hello Doc,

I have a little 8hp merc two stroke motor. I replaced the water pump awhile back and it seemms to pump fine. It starts nice and runs like a top. I notice it has two pin holes (exhaust?)near top of shaft, I am assuming one for each cylinder. One hole only has some oily fluid occaisionally exiting out, again even tho runs like a top. Should I be concerned? Looks almost like lower unit lube or I thought water leaking into a cylinder?

Thanks for any advice!

[Twisted Herring]

Boat Doc,
Thanks for the info on the auto blends. I have wondered about that.

[HOOKUP]

Boat Doc,
I am looking at buying a 175 SJ or the dreaded Optimax 200...would you buy an Optimax? I hear a lot of negative things about them and Siglers wont sell one unless you sign a waiver! What would the Boat doc do?

[321mx-r]

Boat Doc.
I have a 03' Merc 9.9 four stroke. Could you possibly tell me the best location to drill & tap a hole to get hot water for my new wash basin? :help:

[Keta]

Boat Doc',
Help me!!!
There are 4 tacks on the Tolley and they appear to be reading at twice the RPM. The tacks have a 4,6 and 8 cylinder setting on the back and they are all on 8 cylinder. Twin Ford 351's with distributors.

[Boat Doc']

if the fuel filter is ok then i would disassemble and THOROUGHLY clean the carb

[Boat Doc']

nothing to worry about, they are exhaust releif holes to assist in low speed running. With a thousand hours or more they may get plugged up and require pulling the powerhead to clean the carbon out. Any oily residue is normal.

[Boat Doc']

What the Optimax can do for you is give you much better fuel economy, much less oil consumption and the ability to monitor most engine functions including gallons per hour, gallons used per trip and gallons to empty and provide self diagnostics if there is a problem. The product has come a long way since it first came out in 98 or 99, computers have been remapped and changed to a different style, and other more subtle improvements through out the fuel and air management system. The only problems we currently see is occassional plug fouling, normally caused by low engine temperature. Caused by silt or sand in the thermostats which is caused by accelerating in to shallow water. I would definitely buy one with the optional tachometer and fuel link gauge to monitor engine functions. I am not familiar with anybody requiring a waiver on any new product. If it was me I would buy from a dealer who stands behind the products that they sell and have knowledgable support staff to ensure that I have a good experience before, during and most importantly after the purchase.

[Boat Doc']

Remove the anode retainer and anode on the side of the block and tap the retainer to 1/8th pipe. Discard the anode its main function is in high salinity/warm water applications. You will need a valve to control water flow so the engine doesn't run cold.

[Boat Doc']

I would start with a few basics, confirm they are wired correctly and that all connections are clean and tight- especially grounds. Hook up a known good tach to verify your suspicions. If they are off disconnect one station and the other to see if it changes. Also try rotating the switch on the back to see if you can match the readings with the known good tach. My first suspicion is loose or corroded wiring. You might also try temporarily wiring direct to the engine and see if they read correctly.

[theles]

Boat Doc,

Do you guys work on Hondas?

I have 1998 Honda 8HP kicker and noticed oil leaking out of it while trolling. I found that the oil in my engine oil (oil in the crankcase) had been contaminated with water, to the extent that it was a light brownish, milky color. I am hoping it is just a seal or gasket, but would like to take it to Stevens.

Thanks.

[Boat Doc']

Sorry no Hondas

[EULACHON]

Boat Doc

Got a question about water pumps.....Just did the pump on my 105 Mariner Jet and it went just like the manual said it should except for 2 things....

1) In the manual it says there should be a water pump tube seal It looks to be between the white plastic pipe (about 3" long) and the pump housing. The kit (mercury kit) does not look like it has a seal unless it is already in the pump body. The kit did come with a real small o ring that does not look like anything I took off and there did not look like there was a seal on the old pump.

2) there does not look like there is a seal between the white plastic tube and the steel tube that goes up into the engine (steel tube heads up to the engine)

Does the white plastic tube just float or should there be seals on one or the other or both ends??

Just want to make sure it is done before I bolt the jet back on the engine.

Thanks

[Boat Doc']

The plastic tube is just a guide to assist in installation of the pump, there has to be a seal in the upper housing to seal the water tube. It is normally already installed, you can see or feel it by looking down into the housing. There will be extra components of the kit that don't fit every application, in this case it's ok to have extra parts.

[EULACHON]

OK can you define what you mean by the white tube is a guide??? An yes there is a seal in the pump housing. The white tube was on the engine when I removed the jet pump so It will be part of the reassembly correct?? So the white tube goes in the pump and the steel tube (up to the powerhead)


OK my guess is the steel tube in the engine will slide down the "guide tube" and the steel tube will press on the seal in the pump. So the white tube is a guide to get the steel tube in the hole.



Thanks much

Paul

[Boat Doc']

the copper tube is installed first into the powerhead the white guide tube rests on top of the pump housing and serves as a visual guide for the copper tube as you push the jet up into place

[EULACHON]

Sorry thought it was steel tube.

Thanks for the clear up

Best

Paul

[Vegetarian]

Boat Doc,

First let me thank you for the info on where to get a manual for my Vortec 6000. The guy I talked to in parts was very helpful and kind. Thanks. Now I may have bigger problems though. I have done 3 oil and filter changes on my Boice Jet since I bought it. It now has about 37 hours on the engine. The problem I have is, since I didn't have a manual to go by until now, I have been using the dip stick in the engine to go off of when adding the oil. It has been taking 6 Quarts to register, 7 Quarts to register in the safe zone, and 7.5 Quarts to register full on the dip stick. I asumed that these engines just had a larger oil pan than a car, being as though my F-250 takes 12 Quarts. Anyways, I just read in the manual that the engine oil capacity for this engine is 5.5 Quarts with standard filter, 6.5 with remote, and 5 Quarts with no filter.

It also says: <NOTE> Add one quart with filter change. Oil capacity may have to be adjusted for engine installation angle. Run engine with oil level within the safe zone.

Running the engine with 7-7.5 qts of oil has not caused any leaks, and the engine seems to be OK. My question is, how many qts should I be using after an oil change. Should I go by the dip stick or not? I hope I have not done any damage. With Boice out of business, I really feel lost once in a while. And this would be one of those times. I hope you can help..........Thanks again for your time....VEG :whazzup:

[baitslinger]

Hello Doc,

Thanks for your advice last week on my 8 hp. I also have a 1985 evinrude 15 hp motor which runs well but it seems real sloppy/loose up top like the motor mounts may need fix? I was told if they get bad enough that the main motor can actually break loose and fall into the water? I could not find directions as how to fix in manual? Is this a pretty easy fix or would it be better to take into shop? Do you guys work on these? Thanks again I really enjoy this board.

[Mrduckman]

Boat Doc, I have a mid eighties honda 9.9. When I tighthen the tension nut on the side to lock the motor in one position it still moves from side to side about 3 inches. It seems like there is some bearing/bushing in the main shaft that is worn. Do you have any thoughts?
Thanks, Mrduckman

[Boat Doc']

The oil level should be read with the boat at the attitude it would rest at. Read it on the dip stick. You may have dual filters or the engine could be at an extreme angle. If it was overfilled you would see fluctuating oil pressure and or hear noisey lifters. If you do experience the above I would contact the engine maranizer-I beleive yours is Kodiak, on who to take it to in your area.

[Boat Doc']

It could fall off ina high thrust use. We do not service them. It is fairly involved to change them. Powerhead,midsection both have to come off and you could almost count on running into corrossion issues. If you take it somewhere make sure you get a firm estimate, it may be more cost effective to replace it.

[Boat Doc']

I agree with the worn bushing, if you gotta have it work the powerhead and midsection may need to be removed to fix it.

[HntnFsh]

Hi Boat Doc,
Lookin for some advice.98 Predator w/175 sport jet.
I was changing the oil in the drive housing and stator assy.The drive housing went great.Ran into what I think may be a problem with the stator assy.When I loosened the drain fill plug,it spit some oil at me,with enough force to spit the screw a foot or 2 and the oil hit me in the leg a couple feet away.The oil looks like it might have just a very small amount of moisture.The boat hasnt been run in several weeks.So the pressure in the housing really surprised me.Does this sound like a bad seal to you?If so should I replace the seal,and bearing?That is I'm assuming there is a bearing in the stator housing.Never had 1 apart though.Looks like it takes about a 2" socket to get to the seal.Is this something I can do?I'm pretty mechanically inclined.Replaced several bearing and engine seals.Or would I be better off having a service center check it out and do the work for me.Also an estimate on price for parts and also labor if I cant do it.Sorry to be so long winded.But i really do appreciate your help.
Thanks,
Rick

[Boat Doc']

I wouldn't worry, the pressure indicates the seals are intact. The pressure is caused by the air expanding since the reservoir isn't totally full of oil.

[HntnFsh]

Thanks Boat Doc.I really appreciate the help.Had the unit in the car today to run down to your shop.You saved me a few bucks.Thanks again.
Rick

[moman]

Boat Doc, last question I hope, I'm nearly done with my new old boat. Excuse my lack of proper terms, I hope you can figure it out. I have a 1999 Honda BF130 and my steering is too tight and jerky. The cable terminates in a control mechanism at the front of the engine and there are two lube fittings. I've filled both until grease is everywhere (outside). But, when the stainless "steering rod" comes out of the control, it's dry as a bone. I attempted to remove the 1 and 1/2-inch bolts on either end to hand pack but they appear to be spring-loaded. Having taken apart a throttle control years ago with disasterous consequence, I backed off. Any thoughts or is this one for the shop? I thought about heating it up with a torch to break free any old grease but that might not be a good idea. Thanks much.

[Boat Doc']

The zirc fittings on the front are for the pivot tube. To grease the cable you need to remove it from the engine. It may also be necessary to clean the old grease from inside the tilt tube. In some cases this involves removing the engine. You might be able to get by with pulling it out as far as you can and grease the heck out of it and work it back and forth.

[HntnFsh]

Ok 1 more ? for me too please.Is the impellor on the sport jet shimable?It doesnt look like it to me.But I dont have it off.I was going to take it off to sharpen and clean up the rough edges.
Thanks again,
Rick

[pksgundogs]

Boat Doc, I have a 1996 Evinrude 9.9 Four Stroke kicker that I want to plumb for a hot box sink in my sled. I understand the tell tale stream isnt hot since its source is not coming through the water jacket on this motor, so that is out... My Evinrude dealer's mechanic hasnt plumbed a hot box before and told me to call the factory tech desk, the Evinrude factory service desk was clueless about this,never heard of a hot water box off a four stroke kicker (cheeseheads...) and said not to alter the motor in any way, but another local mechanic at three rivers marine (Woodinville,WA) advised to tap into the exposed coolant hose line on the right side of the motor. My Evinrude mechanic thinks this will adversely affect exhaust temps and increase noise since this line is supposedly cooling the exhaust down through the hub. Any ideas where to tap into my 9.9 Evinrude to supply my washbasin so I can get a fresh shave on the water ? It would be so easy to tap into the exposed coolant line, if it was safe to do so... Thanks.

[Boat Doc']

no the impeller and/or liner would be replaced if necessary.maxclearance would be .025 overall

[Boat Doc']

I would go with the Three Rivers suggestion. If you put a valve in line to control water flow so you're not taking all the water you should be fine.

[Stowaway]

Hey Boat Doc,
I'm not sure what everything is called so hopefully I descibe it right you'll be able to tell me what it is. Is the starter the thing with the little gear on top, that rises about an inch or 2 when you turn it over to connect with the teethed wheel(flywheel) :shrug:? Anyway, somehow I left the boat key in the ignition and somehow the drivers seat was turned just enough to push the key in. The wife called me at work a few nights later and said the boat was making a beeping sound. Ever since it wont fire up! I charged the battery. I did notice when I turn it over that the little gear on top of the starter(i think) just spins and doesn't raise to meet the flywheel( i think). Why wont the gear raise but the thing spins? Does it sound like maybe I burned it out and need a new one? Thanks in advance!!!!!! :bowdown:

[Boat Doc']

The drive gear on the starter is either stuck or more likely isn't spinning fast enough to engage the flywheel. Make sure to check all battery connections-make sure they are clean and tight.Also make sure the battery is fully charged. Turn the gear on the starter to make sure it travels up the shaft and isn't stuck. Most common problems in order would be connections or cables,battery or starter.

[pksgundogs]

Thanks Boat Doc.

[PuddlePumper]

I have a 1987 Ford 351 with a Holley carb. It has about 550 hours on it. A couple months ago it developed a miss (after replacing the fuel/water separator) at around 2000rpm. I had the carb rebuilt thinking it was a fuel problem. After carb rebuild, still had the miss. I then put new spark plugs in, new plug wires, new fuel pump, rebuilt altenator, new battery and changed distributor to electronic ignition. After all of this I fixed the miss. After running it for about an hour I backed off the throttle and it would only idle at 1400 rpm. I had the carb taken apart again and was told the secondary's were closing completely. Even with the idle screw backed off all the way it now idles at about 1000 rpm. I have retarded the timing and it still idles at 1000 rpm. At this point I don't think it is the carb. I am at a loss. Any ideas?

[1pump]

Hey Doc,

I was browsing thru Merc's website tonite looking for more info on the 200 Verado, and lo and behold, there's now 3 more models!! Specifically the 135, 150 and 175 4 cylinders.
I was facing a major dilemma because of the previous gap in the Merc product line between 115 and 200 4-strokes. Now my prayers might be answered- but I need to know a few things:

1. The press release says they will be introduced as 2006 models, and will be produced accordingly. What is that supposed to mean, and when can I get one? :whazzup:

2. I need more info on the standard instrumentation and the self-diagnostic capabilities. Where can I get that?

3. I've been working with your sales guy for the last 2 weeks trying to put a deal together. Is he holding out on me, or doesn't he know about the new models? :smirk:

[Leatherneck]

Boat Doc
I have a 8 horse merc kicker. Took it out on the first trip of the year and the rope is frozen. And yes I made sure that it was in neutral. Is this a simple fix or could there be bad news ahead. Thanks for your time. :shrug:

[Boat Doc']

It takes air and fuel to run, I would guess vacuum leak. This is assuming throttle plates are all the way closed.

[Boat Doc']

There is no pricing at this time. They are projecting July 2005 availability. The Smartcraft gauges may be on the website, if not give me specifics and I will try to answer your questions.

[Boat Doc']

If the flywheel turns look at the plastic pawl on the top of the recoil housing and pull it away from the recoil mechanism. If the flywheel doesn't turn you will need to break it loose and hopefully not damage anything.

[Salmonator]

Boat doc,

I have a mid 90's 150 merc 2.0L. Book says I need 110 to 135 compression and I got 100 to 102 across all cylinders. I know the diffrential is nice and tight but am I far enough out of the range spec. to be worried?

Also, is the tell-tale supposed to be streaming water at all times or just when the thermostats open?

Thanks... Joe

[Boat Doc']

Compression is nothing to be concerned about, the water discharge can be intermittent depending on model. Best advise would be to service the water pump so you know how it works when its new.

[trollking]

Doc,
Thanks for all your work.:applause: :applause:..I've read the posts, think I have assimilated some of the answers to my questions, but would appreicate it if you would start from scratch and help me to 'design' a fuel system to run both my main and kicker motors off one tank.

I have a 1995 75hp Mercury oil-injected main and a 1985(?) Honda 7.5 4-stroke kicker, on a 17' Arima. I want to run both motors off the same tank. I plan to run a separate 5' fuel hose from the oil-water filter to the kicker, with a primer bulb near the kicker. I'd like to approach this as a 'new' installation, and replace or change whatever is necessary for a 'best' system.

So, should I use any shut-off valves, and if so, where should I put them? I'd rather not have to turn a valve to switch motors, but will if you recommend them. I COULD put a shut-off near between the bulb and kicker, or for either hose at the filter, or I could even have a shunt valve after the filter, to give fuel to only one engine at a time... but I do like to start the kicker before I kill the big motor, and vice versa.

what id hose should I use for the kicker

should I put in any check valves.

thanks. I'll be looking for your reply.

[Boat Doc']

Starting from scratch, one tank with min. 5/16 fuel line to water sep. filter. Min. 5/16 line from filter to big motor with primer bulb. Bulb routed so it is not laying flat or pointing downhill- this will allow check valves to seat so troller pulls from the tank and not the big motor. Min. 1/4" line from filter to troller with primer bulb installed same way. This should work fine with no shut off valves. Where problems can arise is on inboard applications that can not use a primer bulb. In some cases they require a check valve between the filter and fuel pump.

[Buck50]

Boat Doc,
We recently purchased a "project" boat. It's a 1981 19' Marlin with a 228 Mercruiser stern drive. It came with the skeg on the stern drive almost completely busted off. What are the repair options? Also, to bust off that big of a hunk it had to hit something pretty hard. Is there anything else we should check for damage, hidden or otherwise.
Thanks for the forum, this is a great time saver.
Jim

[Boat Doc']

So long as its not leaking oil and has about a half inch left it can probably be repaired for about 250.00. Pull the lower drain plug, if there is no large chunks of metal the insides are probably ok. Spin the shaft if run out is less than .010 then it is also ok.If the boat accelerates without slipping then every thing should be fine. If not check the prop hub or engine coupler.

[Buck50]

Thanks Boat Doc,
One more question. When I get the skeg repair done, is this the kind of thing where I bring in the whole boat or do I need to drop off the lower unit? $250 isn't all that bad if I don't have to mess with anything. I assume Stevens in Milwaukie could do this work.
Thanks for your input.
Jim

[Tacklebuster]

Hi Boat Doc,

I have a couple questions. The other day I was running my 150 Yami four stroke about 5200 RPM's when the motor just died. It started right back up then died again. I went back and pumped on the ball and then it fired up and ran fine. This is the second time this has happened. The motor is fuel injected and I can't figure out for the life of me why the fuel would just stop flowing? A new fuel filter was just put in so was a new set of plugs.

The other question is on the left side of the back of the motor if you are facing the prop, are a set of 5 bolts. There is small amounts of oil coating the bolts after every trip. The motor only has 23 hours on it, is that part of the break in?

Thanks

[Boat Doc']

you can drop off the whole boat, repairs are done at Tigard location only.

[Boat Doc']

sounds like the fuel system is either restricted or sucking air. Check all hose connections and hoses for kinks or being loose. If a troller is part of the system check those lines also. You might try unplugging the troller. Other unlikely areas could be fuel pickup is leaking or anti siphon valve sticking. Not familiar with the oil residue, check for loose bolts and hoses. Could be a little blow by related to breakin. If you don't find anything make sure your dealer checks it out.

[Crayfin]

This has probably been asked before. Can you mix regular 2 stroke oil with the new synthetic oil? I have a 225 merc with about 200 hours on it and still have some regular 2 stroke oil in the resovoir-can I just add the new synthetic?

[Boat Doc']

they say you can, if possible drain as much as you can then top it off.

[HntnFsh]

Boat Doc.
On initial start up.Which is takes a bit with my cold blooded sport jet.The warning beeper sounds intermitintly till it starts.Then doesnt beepp anymore while running or on successive start ups.Any Ideas.
Thanks
Rick

[Crayfin]

Thanks--will do

[timinthegorge]

Hey Boat Doc.... we appreciate all you do. :applause:

I've got a 19' Stryker and the only carpet in the boat is on each side of the transom, and the battery access cover. The battery access cover is fine, but the two pieces on either side of the transom are dirty, oil spotted, and are constantly catching my plugs. They need to be replaced, but NOT with more carpet!

I want to replace the carpet and the marine plywood it's mounted on with something like a white composite cutting board, kind of like what's on my garelyk swim step. Can you or anybody give me a clue about who makes this material so I can order some?? I'd probably have to be at least 5/8" thick for strength. And a piece 2' x 4' would be more than adequate to take care of both sides....

I've done several internet searches but can't find it. Must not be using the right "keywords"... Any help would be greatly appreciated.... Thanks, Tim

[Boat Doc']

first guess would be low battery voltage. Check for loose connections, bad battery or incorrect cable size.

[Boat Doc']

you can buy UHMW or other products like at at a plastic suppier. Port Plastics or Tap Plastics are two local places that carry it. Something else would be Melamine which is available at lumber yards.

[Crayfin]

Why does my 225 merc pull so hard to the left? My brother has a 200 Yami and it does not do this? It has always kinda done it but it seems to be more noticable lately. Probably because I have not had much "tiller time" ?

[Boat Doc']

If you are running a jet look in the nozzle and remove any rocks that may be lodged inside. If the nozzle is clear bend the tabs on the top and bottom of the exhaust tube the direction the bow turns easiest. If you are running a prop move the trailing edge of the trim tab the direction the bow moves easiest. This is a setup issue that can apply to any brand.

[timinthegorge]

Thanks Boat Doc..... :applause:

[Crayfin]

Thanks...I learned something today! You rock!!!

[bronc]

one of the bars on the intake grid in my sport jet broke loose on one end . can the end that broke loose be welded up , or do you have to replace the whole grid. thanks

[Boat Doc']

It should be able to be welded, only concern would be if it would be as strong.

[Vegetarian]

Hi Boat Doc', This weekend I went and bought the synthetic grease that the American Turbine manual calls for when greasing the "thrust" and "bowl" bearings. My question is, how much to pump in, and when enough is enough. This is something the manual fails to include. Thanks for your help!!!

[Boat Doc']

American Turbine says "4-5 pumps on the thrust bearing at every oil change or after sitting 3-4 months. On the bowl squeeze the lever until resistance is felt at every oil change."

[Two Fister]

Boatdoc,
Thanks for taking the time to help out us ifishers! :bowdown:

I'm buying a boat that has a '95 150 Merc EFI that is oil injected from a reservoir and a '95 Merc 9.9 that is not oil injected. I'd like to be able to get rid of the separate tank for the 9.9 so I was wondering if there was any way to adapt the injector set up to cover both motors?

Thanks again!
TF

[Boat Doc']

The 150 would have to be running to mix the oil, However you can remove the oil injection from the 150 and manually mix the fuel.

[Two Fister]

That's what I was afraid of. Could I add another oil reservoir and injector for the kicker or would I be better off running the kicker off the separate tank? I don't want to disconnected the injection system as I've read about a bunch of problems doing that with the fuel injected mercs.

[Boat Doc']

The only reliable mixer I am aware of is the Autoblend that Mercury Marine offered in the '80s. If you found one and verified it functioned they are good, however parts are not available any longer. OMC made what they called an Accumix but we saw alot of fryed motors because they didn't mix correctly. Options are 4 stroke troller or seperate tank or mixer if you can find one or remove the injection and mix your gas.

[Two Fister]

Thanks boatdoc! Looks like the separate tank is going to stick around for a while!
TF

[Vegetarian]

Thanks BD!!! The world could use a few more generous people like yourself!!! I really appreciate your time and the help you give.

[Shaker-King]

Doc,

I have a 1999 Evinrude 9.9hp 4 stroke kicker. The last two times I have used it ran about 45 minutes and died. After it died it either didn't want to start or would only run for a minute. I let it sit for a while and it would start again but only for about 5 minutes.

I did some plumbing work just before this started. I installed a water separator and a fuel flow transducer that then went to a Y to feed both engines. The Y to the main tank is how it was plumbed originally (04 Intruder).

After the first time it acted up I thought that it may be starving for fuel. So hooked up the kicker fuel line directly to the separators second output to bypass the fuel flow sensor.

Yesterday after it died I checked the bulb and it was hard. There is always a good flow of water out the tattle-tail.

Thanks
Shaker-king

[Bob Barthlow]

If you are running a jet look in the nozzle and remove any rocks that may be lodged inside. If the nozzle is clear bend the tabs on the top and bottom of the exhaust tube the direction the bow turns easiest. If you are running a prop move the trailing edge of the trim tab the direction the bow moves easiest. This is a setup issue that can apply to any brand.

...Boat Doc so if my '03 Merc 200 pump w/ tiller is pulling the tiller away from me, to the left (as I stand to the right and steer with my left arm) I should bend the tabs to the left.

Also thanks to you and Stevens Marine for this great service! :cheers:

[Boat Doc']

sounds like you have a carburation issue, if the bulb is hard then try pulling the choke out slowly and see if it continues to run. If it does then the carb needs to be removed and cleaned. If it doesn't change then it may be ignition. Check for spark when it has failed.

[Boat Doc']

Bob, bend the tabs the direction the bow goes easiest, in this case to the right.

[Ni!]

Hi Boat Doc', This weekend I went and bought the synthetic grease that the American Turbine manual calls for when greasing the "thrust" and "bowl" bearings. My question is, how much to pump in, and when enough is enough. This is something the manual fails to include. Thanks for your help!!!



Heh. I just did the exact same thing this weekend, and then wondered the exact same thing as I prepared to grease the bearings on my American Turbine equipped Boice Jet.

Small world huh? :wave:

Boat Doc - thanks for the answer. And Vegetarian - thanks for the question.

Ni!

[chromerdome]

Hey Doc bought new smoker last year with a 25h bigfoot I prime the moter run down the river a bit and the motor just quits so I squize the ball and off I go until it dose it agin please help ! new boat and motor mmmm :whazzup:

[Boat Doc']

got a few ideas, pinched fuel line, primer bulb laying flat or pointed downhill, loose hose or fitting, restriction somewhere in system or bad fuel pump. A clear hose and a vacuum gauge would lead you or the dealer in the right direction.

[NWRedside]

boat Doc:
I've been using my parents 1980 Merc 140 outboard this winter and fall. The engine has mabye 250 hours on it and has never had any work done other than tune ups. I can rarely start it at the dock without using starter fluid, however once it is started it starts throughout the day without even so much as a hiccup. What could be going on here? (once I do use starter fluid it starts right up)

[Boat Doc']

If the carbs have a choke plate you need to squeeze the primer bulb till hard then pump it twice more. If there is no choke plate then the enrichener valve may not be functioning.

[NWRedside]

how do I find out if it has a choke plate...excuse my lack of knowledge.... :shrug:

[bobber_boy]

Dear boat doc,
Thanks for all of your help.
I have a ford 302 in my glastron and for whatever reason is no longer turning over. :depressed: I can hear the starter solenoid running, and have a good 12.5 volts in the battery, and have checked all connections between the battery and the starter, but have not yet been able to got it to turn over. Any suggestions, it was turning over yesterday? :whazzup:
thanks in advance. :cool:

[Boat Doc']

when you activate the choke a plate flips down and covers the front of the carb.

[Boat Doc']

If the starter is turning and not engaging the flywheel you either have low voltage at the starter, starter drive gear stuck on armature or no teeth on the flywheel for the starter to engage to. Check all the connections and cables and battery first.

[baltz526]

i just bought a 17' sylvan pro select with the 70 horse evenrude, that was originaly purchesed from stevens marine.it has an oil injection mix oil fuel system on it, and the previous owner has been having problems with fouling plugs multiple tune ups since buying it in 95,my question is it possible this oil mix system is over oiling and causing these problems,he said after a high speed run it will run rough at low speeds and die at idle when shifting into gear,also what is involved in deleteing this oil mix system,i would rather just mix in the tank.the last owner would use it lightly about 2 weeks a year so i would guess this motor has less than 400hrs on it and probaly closer to 200hrs.

[Raindog]

Sir, thank you for your time and energy in answering these questions.

I saved some time and money two years ago going to a shade tree mechanic for an impeller change in my 1996 Merc 25. Now I think I regret it. This year when I went to change the impeller I found wheel bearing grease on the lower unit and water pump bolts instead of Loc-Tite. It didn't seem to loosen up but it gives me the willies imaging the bolts working loose. What can I do to make the Loc-Tite stick in the future? I don't think it will stick to the grease in the threads?

[Mikeymoto]

Boat Doc,
I have a 175 sportjet and was thinking about someday trying to get a little more out of her. I looked at the specs and noticed that it appeared to the layman (me) that the 175 and 200 optimax are quite close with the exception being fuel injection-vs-carbs & higher revs. Is it possible (safely) to boost the output of a 175? Aftermarket performance parts available? Or would I be better off changing out the powerhead completely.
Thanks,
Mike

[HOOKUP]

Mikeymoto,

I dont know how many hours you have on your SJ, but you may take a look at your impellor and wear ring. Both of these can get worn and cause noticable loss in performance at about 300 hrs.

[Boat Doc']

I havn't heard of those oiling to much, I have seen them not oil enough with catastrophic results.The idle problems is probably caused by the top plastic covers on the carbs being warped. You would have to remove them to check. If they are warped you would need to replace the cover. Deleting the oil injection is accomplished by disconnecting the remote oil line from the connecter and unplugging the harness thar goes to the fuel pump.

[Boat Doc']

It would be common to use some sort of anti seize compound on the fasteners you desribe to make it easily serviced in the future so you didn't have to use heat to get it apart in the future. To answer your question if you thoroughly clean the threads with carb cleaner or solvent then use the loc-tite primer it should be fine.

[Boat Doc']

Anytime you try to get more power you sacrifice reliability. My advice would be to replace as an assembly or maybe more practicle sell the current boat and replace it with the power options you would like.

[Reel Knotty]

I have a '97 mercury 115 offshore (2 stroke) with a BIG oil resevoir which leaks whenever I have the motor tilted up for towing/storage.

I once filled the resevior 2/3 full before making a trip up to Odell...What a MESS! :eek: :hoboy:

Now I take oil with me and fill after the boat is in the water to keep from getting oil everywhere...so, normal?

[Boat Doc']

There is an updated reservoir kit that converts it to a stopper style fill. They run about 65.00

[Johnny Utah]

Boat Doc

Can you tell me what it will cost to get a new housing intake for a 1992 mercury v200 efi tiller model?

[Reel Fun Fish'n]

Boat Doc, I have a 2003 9.9hp Mercury big foot.
The last 2 times out it hasn't wanted to run. Starts but shuts downs after a few seconds.
I thought water in the fuel. But today I disconnected the fuel line and pumped some fuel thru then tried to restart it. without the fuel line connected.
It Started right up without any choke and run fine even after reconnecting the fuel line.
Any Ideas?

[deadstick]

Having a little (big!!) problem with my 210hp carburated sport jet. Everything has been great tell two weeks ago at the Sturgeon derby. Boat ran great all day tell right at the end when it felt like it went to 5 cylinders. Came back for a short period then fell off again. Plugs look ok. Lot's of water in the filter so changed that out and drained the carbs. Possible a little better but still missing. Drained everything again and flushed carbs with carb cleaner and blew them out thinking some water was still causing a problem. Boat still misses. If I run it on the trailer and WOT (in the water) it sounds good no miss. But if I try to back off the trailer WOT it misses. New plugs about 30 hours ago and will probable change them again and see if this is the problem. Next stop will be a professional.

It's Springer season and I need my boat. Please help.

Dan

[Boat Doc']

new intake would be 314.00

[Boat Doc']

Maybe air in the line? Or sticky needle valve. If it continues to cause problems you may have to remove and thoroughly clean the carb

[Boat Doc']

If the power loss was like somebody turning off a switch I would lean towards an ignition problem. If it only does it at wide open throttle it may be bumping the rev limiter-If you throttle back just a little and it runs fine that may be the case. If it is look at the intake for debris or impeller for damage or excessive clearance. If it misses at all rpm you may have to disassemble and clean the carbs. Water can be difficult to remove by flushing. Do change the plugs first as they may be an inexpensive fix.

[Fisherman]

Boat Doc could you tell me ball park how much it would cost to convert a 1996 140jet merc (200hp) to a super pump

[Boat Doc']

2030.00 would be new pump 4 blade stainless impeller and intake modifications. If you need a water pump add 100.00. If your old one is good it will fit.

[Mikeymoto]

Boat Doc,
Any idea if and when Merc will adapt the Verado powerhead to a Sportjet? Sounds like a winning combo.
Mike

[Musicman]

Boat Doc,
I have a 1975 volvo-penta 4cyl B20 130hp motor that has a water in oil problem. May be due to freeze damage. Changed out the head gasket and inspected the water jackets between the block and head and it looked like I had plent of wall clearance. Fired up and ran nicely but the water came back within an hour or so.
Is there a diagostic for this and how much would it cost me to see if the block/head is salvageable? Leakdown? Thanks in advance! :whazzup:

[Double G]

King Starboard XL Material is available at Tap Plastic. It's the material that Arima Boats use in their interiors. It's strong and good looking.

[Boat Doc']

I havn't heard anything for sure. I would guess they would stick with direct injected two strokes for weight savings.

[Boat Doc']

If you are getting water in the cylinders look at the riser or manifold. If you are getting water in the crankcase look at oil cooler- if equipted,cylinder head or block. If you are not comfortable you could disassemble the engine down to a long block and have any reputable machine shop disassemble and pressure test it for you. Of course the more you do yourself the less expensive it will be. The folks at Cook Engine on Hayden Island would be a good resource.

[Musicman]

Cylinders vs crankcase, how do I tell the diff where the water is coming from? From the previous post, thanks.

[Boat Doc']

If water comes out the spark plug holes only with no signs of water in the oil then you probably have a head, manifold or riser issue. If you remove the manifold and the intake or exhaust ports show signs of rust then you probably have a manifold or riser problem. The manifold, head and block can be pressure tested. the riser can be visually inspected. The logical course of events would be to start with the riser and work your way down. Inspect or pressure test each component until you find the source of the problem.

[Musicman]

Understood, great and thank you. :cheers:

[deadstick]

Thanks boat doc. Its 11:30 and I just came in from removing and cleaning each carb. Everything I have done up to now has change the way the boat ran but did not fix the problem completly. Today the boat would run pretty smooth at WOT but it was way down on power. Only able to pull about 4700 rmp and 35 mph. Came back home and started ripping carbs off.

Just finished and came in to check if you had answered my question. One of the needles was a little sticky. Blew everything out and put them back on. Lets hope we are both right because I am starting to loose my charm.

Thanks again.

Dan :bowdown:

[Pickles]

Boat Doc: I have a question concerning my 1997 8 hp mercury two stroke outboard. I have recently added a lot of electronic accessories to my boat, and think it would be nice to be able to charge my batteries off of my kicker. What parts do I need to purchase to make this a reality and what kind of charging amperage would I get? Also is this something I can do myself, or should I have a professional do it? I am not a marine mechanic, but do have an extensive automotive and mechanical/electrical background.

Thanks

Pickles :cheers:

[Boat Doc']

You would need a lighting coil Merc #42282A4 and a battery charging kit Merc #62351A10. Expect to pay around 140.00. Installation is easy however you need to remove the flywheel. Output is 5 amps. Also note at idle speed output is almost zero, it starts charging at a fast idle.

[Streetwalker]

Doc,
I have 2001 9.9 & I think it's under propped. Its the kicker for a 21' inboard, windshield sled (14 degree). I dont seem to be able to go slow enough sometimes trolling even though the idle has it barely running & it doesn't seem to turn enough rpms at full throttle. What is the stock pitch & what pitch would you recommend to improve slow speed & top end rpm ?

[Boat Doc']

I would recommend a 5.5 pitch prop which will greatly improve all aspects of the motors operation.

[deadstick]

Problem still persists. Looks like maybe a stator or switch box problem according to the manual. Jumping spark from the coils to the spark plug wire shows very low voltage to on side of the engine compaired to the other. I don't have the testing tools to be sure so it looks like a trip to the shop. Any ideas? Would love to fix it myself and go fishing.

[deadstick]

Also... since I had the carbs off do I need to have them sinched again?

[Boat Doc']

If it is ignition you will need the proper tools to diagnose it. You might get lucky by changing the bad component first guess, depends on how lucky you feel. Could get expensive if you guess wrong as the parts are not returnable if opened.

[Boat Doc']

You should check the synch.

[deadstick]

Thanks Boat Doc. I feel the same way. Wish I could get r dun myself but it's scheduled to see a pro like you on Monday. Thanks for you advise.

[Musicman]

BDoc, What's the easiest way to separate an outrdrive from a 4cylinder motor that isn't in the boat but hanging from an engine hoist. All bellhousing bolts and cables have been removed but it won't budge......mid 70's 4cyl Volvo with 270 outrdrive. Thanks in advance....
:shrug:

[Boat Doc']

probably would have to carefully pound some wdges between the block and bell housing. Sounds like the driveshaft and coupler splines are stuck together.

[Pete]

Hey, Boat Doc'
I have a 2 stroke, Merc 8 horse that won't run. Actually, it starts first pull, but it won't idle down. It will run at about 3 times too fast to troll, with occasionals "burps" of blue smoke. If I throttle down to trolling speed, it just slowly dies. I suspect the fuel filter, but I can't get the darned cup to turn. What's the trick, it's barely a year old!

[Boat Doc']

Good morning Pete, Try opening the idle jet a half turn and see if it works ok. It's the screw at the top front of the carb facing forward. The fuel filter will require a pair of pliers to break loose. If you can get it to idle ok but still have the fast idle hiccup that requires a different air bleed jet that we would have to do. Good luck.

[Pete]

With the screw 1/2 open, it will start when choked, but then just "peters out". I can't get it to idle at all ... it will only run faster than I want. If I drop the speed, I have to keep my hand on the throttle so I can "catch" it when the engine speed starts to die. But if I "catch it" too much, it also dies. It's a little like balancing on the edge of a knife, but still going faster than desired.

When the rain stops I'll see what I can do with the fuel filter. I'm really hoping it's a little clogged and the source of the problems.

[Boat Doc']

The screw should be open 1 1/2 turns from lightly seated position. If it still runs poorly try opening it another 1/2 turn. If you still have problems take it to the Doc' for further diagnosis and cure.

[MacEFL]

Hey Doc,
I seem to have picked up some water at the gas station. I changed the seperator filter. Sill picking some up. Will it hurt my motors to use a fuel additive and if yes what do you recomend? Both 2003 Merc 4 strokes, 115 and 9.9. it is a permanent tank.
Thanks
Robert

[Pete]

The screw should be open 1 1/2 turns from lightly seated position. If it still runs poorly try opening it another 1/2 turn. If you still have problems take it to the Doc' for further diagnosis and cure.




I've played with the screw position and done exactly what you said. I just removed the fuel filter - it was clean. However, in reinstalling it and giving the bulb a couple squeezes, the fuel line was spitting and foaming ... I'm betting there's an air leak! :blush: I'll replace the line and see if that solves it.

[NORMAFAN]

Boat Doc please help. I have a 1999 135 optimax and I want to add a tach. But from what I have found on mercury's site I can't get one for a 1999. Do I have any options, such as a one for a car or maybe I just didn't find it on their site. Thanks.