Stevens Marine Boat Doc'

[Boat Doc']

Jetman, sounds like plugged filters or weak fuel pump diaphram. Don't forget the simple stuff first, loose fittings and hoses or kinked lines.

[Jetman]

I've changed the filter since this started so more than likely thats not it. I'm trying to remember if this did this the first time before or after I installed my fuel flow meter :shrug:.Is there a reason that it doesn't seem to do it when the motor is cold? Will have to check lines etc.. Could it be a low spot in the vent line with fuel trapped in it creating a vaccum?

[Boat Doc']

Jetman, When you crank the engine you are energizing the electric primer pump. If after starting it starts to run out of fuel in around 2-3 minutes then I would guess it is a pulse pump problem. You could check it with a vacuum gauge, you shouldn't have more than 3 inches of vacuum. If you do you need to find the source. If you had a vent problem it would also fill extremly slow. Also a vent problem would take much longer to show up- probably at least a half hour if not longer. You could isolate the problem by temporarily hooking up another fuel source to see if its the motor or the boat.

[Jetman]

Boat Doc,
Wouldn't a fuel delivery problem, ie. bad pump diaphram, kinked hose, also lead to a loss of power and possible shut down at higher RPM? The engine runs fine everywhere except at an idle.

[Ride Red]

Hi Boat Doc,

Question about mounting an outboard. Where should the cavitation plate be in relationship to the bottom of the boat?

Thanks,

Steve

[Smj]

Boat Doc....Great forum!

I have a '01 Merc 9.9 4-stroke, I purchased boat, motors, and trailers at Stevens. The 9.9s rpms fluctuate at idle, while trolling, and seems to be getting worse, sometimes dying at a bad time. It's making it tough to get a good slow troll. When I troll for extended periods I'll run the RPMs up and down from time to time in and/or out of gear to avoid loading it up. The motor has reasonably low hours on it, on a scale of 1 being a casual fisherman and 10 being a guide I'd guess I'm a 3-31/2. I have a fair amount of small engine expierience having worked on motorcycles for a number of years in the '70s and '80s. I haven't tried adjusting the idle mixture screw yet, but will depending on what you say. Is this common for Mercs? I ran a Honda 9.9 for a number of years with no such problem.

Thanks again for the forum!

Smj

[MacEFL]

I have the same problem as SMJ. I have a 2003 9.9 bigfoot the will die. I use it to hold anchor while waiting for a good current flow and it will just die. This is even after good and warm. Always starts right up afterwards but it IS annoying. :help:

[Redhawk]

Boat doc, was out of town for a few days but sure appreciate your reply. I have some concrete things to look for the cause -- thanks!!

[Boat Doc']

Jetman, Sorry for the delay- took a long weekend. Diaphragm could cause a idle problem and loose fittings or hoses. A kinked hose would only show up at higher rpm. The diaphragm over time can get stretched and lose capacity at low speeds.

[Boat Doc']

Steve, the cavitaion plate on the primary engine should be even with the bottom of the boat. You can raise it for better top end but you run the risk of excessive ventilation in turns and on acceleration. Heights above about 2.5 inches will result in lack of water to water inlets and engine overheating. If engine is set back from transom the general rule of thumb is 1 inch elevation for every 12 inches of setback. On trollers they can work well about 3 inches above the bottom but work best even or below the bottom. It depends more on application.

[Boat Doc']

Smj, what you are describing can be common on most carburated 4-stroke engines. You might be able to adjust it out, more than likely the carb may need to be disassembled and thoroughly cleaned. It would also be recommended to run a fuel cleaner additive in the fuel system.

[Boat Doc']

Macefl, same thing appies as SMJ, couple of other ideas, hold pressure on the primer bulb to make sure it is not running out of fuel and also try pulling choke out part way to see if it stays running.

[rags]

Boat Doc,
I've been thinking of installing another battery in my SuperVee with a Perko switch. Is this hard to install and what should I watch out for?

[Boat Doc']

John, It's easy to do, make sure positive and negative terminals are matched up. Also the common terminal on back of switch goes to the engine-it is NOT a ground terminal.

[blacktail]

Boat Doc,

While out on the river, my kicker motor lost power and died . I was able to re-start it in neutral, but as soon as I shifted it out of neutral, it would die again. Seems like it is only when it is under "load". It is a 1997 Mercury 8 ML.

I'm assuming it is the fuel filter or some other restriction that is only giving it enough juice to idle. The weird thing is, we had been using it for about 7 hours straight when this happened and it had run fine up until then.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike

[Boat Doc']

Mike, don't know if its fuel or spark but here is 2 easy things to try. Remove the fuel filter being careful not to lose the o-ring on the top. Look inside to see if it is full of water or dirt. If it is you will hsve to remove the carb and clean it out. Also would need to eliminate the source of the comtamination. If its full of fuel locate the stop switch wires and follow them to the port side where they attach to the switch box. Unplug the black wire with a yellow stripe and see if it runs, keep in mind you can't shut it off until you plug the wires back in. You may have a bad stop switch and be able to isolate which one is bad by plugging them in one at a time. Good Luck

[blacktail]

Boat Doc,

Fuel filter looked good.

On the black/yellow wires - Motor would start with both plugged in, and would also start with the top set unplugged. Would not start with the bottom set unplugged.

I did notice some blackish fuel dripping out of the prop area after starting it.

I couldn't run it more than a few seconds as I couldn't find the water intake holes to put the hose flusher over and didn't want to run the motor "dry".

Thanks,
Mike

[Boat Doc']

blacktail, sounds like it's working at this time. The water inlet is above the prop. Another thing would be to hold light pressure on the primer bulb- it should stay firm. If it bleeds down then you may have a float or needle problem. Try running it and rechecking what we have covered. The lower set of wires control the ignition- it should not run with them disconnected

[blacktail]

Boat Doc,

I removed the prop tonight so I could get to where I could get water to the inlet so I could run the motor above idle and for longer than a few seconds.

The motor started okay, but as soon as I take it off idle and give it some throttle, it starts to die. If I let off throttle and take it back down to idle, it stays running.

Only under power does it die out. It's not a sputtering type of power loss, it it a smoother power loss, like it is running out of fuel?

As you know, I checked the fuel filter and it was fine and the wiring looked good too. The fuel bulb is staying firm. I also tried running the motor off a different tank and the same thing happened.

Any other ideas?

Thanks again,
Mike

[Boat Doc']

sounds like debris in the carb, would recommend removal and thorough cleaning

[SalmonSeason]

Boat Doc,
I spoke to Eric yesterday and he said you could not do it until next week...last week you said you could do it this week?? Guess you guys are really busy...I have the custom fabrication/spacer assembly what would it really entail?

"SalmonSeason, there is a few ways to run both units. In terms of cost they are as follows. 5 inch spacer kit on engine with prop that gets removed when pump is installed. This MAY require unbolting motor and lowering it 2 bolt holes. Same as above with jack plate only you move the jack plate to raise or lower motor. Custom fabrication of driveshaft and spacer assy. that doesn't require any engine height change. We could do the conversion in Tigard next week. When you call let the guys know I said it was ok. If you are only converting it once ayear you would probably want to have us do it. We could show you but 8 months later you may forget"

[Boat Doc']

Salmonseason, schedule typically fills up by Tues, didn't hear from you so we moved on. Now have you scheduled for Tues or Wed

[SalmonSeason]

thanks

[corkyking]

Boat Doc - This schematic is from page 1D-5 of my Merc Service Manual for 175XR2 Sport Jet. I'm a dunce when it comes to such things.
My question is why does it say "Tape Off (not used)" or "Not Used".
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/2664wiring3.jpg
They must be for something no?

As usual - Thanks

[Away2Long]

Boat Doc -
With regards to the 175 Sportjet -- are there any adjustments which can be made for the ocassional trip to high altitude areas?
Thanks for all your time on this forum - I know I have used a trick or two brought out by this thread.

[Boat Doc']

Corkyking, the wiring has the same components as a prop drive model so the wires for a trim switch and temp gauge for example are taped back and not used in a sport jet application

[Boat Doc']

Away2long, for the occasional trip to altitude you may want to lean out the idle mixture screws, there is six of them. Two on each carb on the side near the top. They have plastic stops on them so you can't turn them very far. The other thing you could do is change the main jets , but it's a pain and probably not worth the hassle for short trip and only a slight performance gain. If you do change them you must change them back or you will have an engine failure when returning back here.

[corkyking]

“Corkyking, the wiring has the same components as a prop drive model so the wires for a trim switch and temp gauge for example are taped back and not used in a sport jet application”



Boat Doc,

I apologize for an incomplete question. Can I use those wires for operating other machines? Is there a way to tell how much load the wires will bear?

I read somewhere in the manual that the load shouldn’t exceed the capacity of the alternator to recharge the system, which is about 12 amps. Apparently the battery will discharge. Does that mean that the load should never exceed the 12 amps or just not for very long?

[Boat Doc']

Corkyking,The wiring harness should only be used to operate engine accessorys that each wire is intended for. If you are going to operate other electrical accessorys you should run other wires to the battery or accessory panel of the appropriate size to operate the load safely and with the appropriate load protection.

[blacktail]

Boat Doc,

Think we finally got the kicker issues resolved. Thanks again for your input.

Would there be any problems with adding an inline fuel filter in the line between the kicker's fuel tank and the little stock filter?

If okay, would you place this filter in line before or after the primer bulb?

Thanks,
Mike

[Boat Doc']

Blacktail, The existing filter should work just fine but you can put in another filter anywhere in the line.

[snit]

Boat Doc, I send you a "pm" about my Intruder. Thanks, snit

[Boat Doc']

Back at ya, Doc'

[Salmon Stryker]

Boat Doc,

I have a Stryker with a 2000 75 horse Mercury 2-stroke Prop on it. When I run the motor hard for a period of time... say running across the bay or lake, when I slow back down to an idle the engine whines and whirs for 4-5 minutes until it cools back down. One of the guy's at Stevens told us that this is normal but I wanted to get your second opinion. What causes this? Thanks.

[snit]

Back at ya again!

[Boat Doc']

SalmonStryker, what is probably happening when you slow down is excess fuel is puddling in the crankcase and may take a minute or so to be burned off. During this period of time the motor would run rough and make some abnormal sounding noises. This would also be aggravated by having a stainless prop and or a prop of high pitch. Meaning it would have a flywheel effect. You might also spin the prop with the engine off and make sure it's not rubbing on the gear housing. This would also be worse when running at altitude.

[fishloader]

Doc got a 25 johnson,1992. been a great motor till this year. runs great in tests in the driverway but in the river under load it graps out, no power and ends up flooding itself out. new plugs, new gas. maybe timming? like to get it fishable for a couple weeks before I have someone really get into it.Id lose it for the rest of the season. help?

[Boat Doc']

fishloader, sounds like the carb needs to be disassembled and cleaned.

[kevray]

Doc,

I have a 2000 Mercury XR6 150 HP with pump. It idles perfectly, and runs at high end beautifully. However, most of the middle range it really spits and sputters almost chokes. Is this normal for this model or do I need some adjustments?

[bobber_boy]

boat doc,
I have a 1984 4hp yamaha that i am trieing to take the water pump impeller out of. I unbolted the lower unit and it came down 2 inches and no more. am i missing a step?

[Stratocaster]

Boat Doc,

Im gonna take delivery of a TJ 19' Envoy 175 SJ soon. Ive had people tell me to upgrade to a "rock" grate? Any input would be greatly appreciated.

[Pete]

Boat Doc',
I have a 2003 SJ 175. Normal redline seems to be about 5200 RPM. I don't know what happened this morning, but as I was popping up to plane this morning, it reved to 6000. I wasn't cavitating. Why would that happen? Could it result in trouble?

[Boat Doc']

Kevin, Assuming the synch and link is set correctly you will probably have to disassemble and thoroughly clean the carbs.

[Boat Doc']

BB1, the shift shaft needs to be disconnected. There should be a coupling that needs undone.

[Boat Doc']

Pete, best guess is you either have or had something stuck in the intake. Sometimes if you shut it off whatever was there will fall off or you may have to pull the boat and crawl underneath and dislodge a twig or rock. Shouldn't cause any damage since you do have over rev protection.

[bobber_boy]

Thanks boat doc!!!!! :applause:

[kevray]

Thanks

[bobber_boy]

Thank you once again for helping me, but I tried to undo the shift cable, but couldnt find a removable part. On the lower unit i did find a rubber plug that I couldn't remove. should i try to remove it to get to the shifter? http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/5668yami.jpg

[Boat Doc']

yes its behind the rubber plug

[bobber_boy]

thanks again. I pulled off the lower unit and unbolted the water pump housing. the impeller was crumbs when I looked in. :help: :smash:

[Pete]

Boat Doc', I had my boat out again this week and the tachometer seems to be reading 1000+ RPM too high ... is it a "fly by wire" connection? I don't think the engine is really running up to 6500. The sound is the same and the speed on GPS is the same as when it was running at about 5000. Should I be looking at a sending unit or the gauge as the culprit? Or something else?

[Boat Doc']

Pete, first check the connections at the battery and behind the tach. If the connections are tight then the tach is probably bad. Stevens can warranty that for you.

[Prawnasorus]

I had this misfortune of loosing the foot/shoe/water intake off of my suzuki 140 jet motor, Could you give me a quick run down on shimming the new unit. I was told 7-15 thousandths. Clearance.?

[Boat Doc']

we set them for 10 to 15 thou- check it on 3 sides you can move the shoe slightly to make it as close to equal as possible

[Prawnasorus]

Thanks.

[Hunter56787]

Question?
What should the volts be from the coil to the points on a '68 327ci chev W/mallory ignition? There is 12V now, son says there should only be 9V or less - this a single point system.

Hunter

[Boat Doc']

Hunter,The voltage at the points will be battery voltage, they use a resistor wire to drop the amount of current(amps). If you are not experiencing rapid point failure I wouldn't worry about it. If you are experiencing problems you should consider upgrading to electronic ignition, there is kits available for most applications

[Phil Layer]

Boat Doc,

I have a 1999 9.9 Merc 4 stroke outboard with a leaky fuel line connector. This is the black, plastic thingy that connects to the motor. I believe the O-Ring is out on it.

I ordered a replacement that was "for 1998 and newer 4hp and up" Merc outboards but the clip on it was too high so that when I slid the connector on the two shafts to the fuel line, it would not clip.

I then took the leaky part to the store and compared it to others. It looks just like one for the Yamaha except the shaft that it clips onto is big on mine but small on the one for the Yamaha.

Are there variations in the types of these connectors so that I can get the Yamaha type with a larger shaft size? Is there a part number I should be looking for? Did someone put a different male connection on the engine side?

:help:

[Boat Doc']

Phil,the Yamaha connecter will leak on a Merc. The Merc clip on connecters are all the same. The merc number is 22-13563Q3. I think you can get them at GI Joes or a Merc dealer

[Pandion]

I just bought a used 1995 Duckworth with a 115hp Suzuki motor. The motor has less than 100hrs and runs great at high rpm. At the lower rpms it is running a little rough. I'm told that it is probably from bad gas that has sat in the tanks over the winter. I looked at the spark plugs and they look fine. Short of taking it in for a tune up is there anything I should do to trouble shoot the problem?

[Boat Doc']

anderswl,Try changing the fuel filters and plugs and put some fresh fuel in it and run it about 15 minutes at 3/4 throttle or more in a low traffic area of the river. If you still experience problems you could try adjusting the idle mixture screws in until it runs rough then back them off till it smooths out. If you still experience problems you should consider having a shop look at it if it is something you can't live with.

[MintBrite]

Hey Doc- I replaced my motor coupler this weekend in the mercuiser 165. I had previously asked about the slipping and thats what it turned out to be. Well now I need to allin the coupler and all that other stuff for the outdrive to slide back in. My question is can I make an allinment tool that will get everything where it needs to be or should I get the actual mercury allinment tool itself?

Thanks for the help-Del!

[Boat Doc']

Del, hopefully you checked the rear mounts before you put it together, they are usually the cause of a coupler failure. You should use the Merc tool, we rent it out for 10 bucks. You could use the input shaft but it's a pain.

[MintBrite]

Thanks for the info about renting. I looked at the mounts for cracks and other wear but didn't see anything obvious. The coupler was original and I just figured it failed because the boat was loaded heavy and running up river. I've hit a few things running with this new break-away prop hub the last couple yrs. Hit a sunfish last year at 22 knots and the sunken car off the cathdral boat ramp. The prop stayed in 1 piece but I believe it stressed the 28 yr. old rubber in the coupler that had 1800 hrs on it. Thanks again for the info- Del!

[Jennie@ifish]

Good rainy weekend for "Dear Boat Doc" questions!
Jen

[Mrduckman]

Boat Doc'- I have a mid eighties 9.9 honda that I recently purchased. And I am wondering if there is something wrong with the throttle. Say for an example when your trolling and you increase your speed I cannot let go of the throttle or it will go back to idle. I was told that there is probably a worn out spring in the handle but I am not sure. Also when I put on my extension handle I can turn the throttle and nothing will happen the motor will stay at idle. Do you have any thoughts?
DM

[Boat Doc']

duckman, there should be a friction adjustment to put tension on the linkage so it stays put. It seems as if the extension handle would have to be slipping if the throttle works with out it on. You might check that.

[Blue Water 23]

I have a Blue Water with a 4.3 liter Mercruiser. I just put in a new long block and have now gotten about 15 hours on it. My first time out it wasn't getting gas. It would fire with ether. There was no signal to the fuel pump so I fooled around with some connections on the fuel pump and it started running and it ran fine that trip. The next trip it wasn't getting gas again and it wouldn't fire. I tapped (banged) on the fuel pump and eventually it started and ran fine. It ran fine for a few trips with no problems. Last night I had it on the Willamette and it started fine and we went up and anchored and shad fished for halibut bait for next weekend. When we went to start it it started right up and then it died. It was like it was starving for gas or something. It would start to cut out for a while, then it would run, then cut out and die. It did this for quite a while. Towards the end it wouldn't even fire with ether. It was like it was flooded. Eventually the battery went dead. What do you think it could be? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I was planning on going halibut fishing and crabbing this weekend and to a lake in central Oregon next weekend. This is very dissapointing. I have been looking forward to this halibut trip for over 4 months.

[Blue Water 23]

ttt

[Boat Doc']

Bluewater23, A few ideas,check all wiring connections paying close attention to distributor connecter, may be corroded and also all grounds to make sure they are tight are hooked up and they have a good connections. Verify power to fuel pump, if it has power and not running replace it- its a long walk home! If it has power and is running check to make sure the carb isn't flooding. Check for spark and fuel you have not enough or to much of one or more things. Hopefully this will help get you going.

[theles]

Doc,

Thanks for the great service. I have a question about my Sportjet 175XR2 sparkplugs- I bought mine used and the previous owner used the NGK BU8H. It seems to run fine, but the factory recommends the BUZ8H. The problem is the factory recommended ones run $6-$8 versus the $2/ea for the BU8H. Will I see any appreciable difference with the BUZ8H plugs?

Looking forward to your response and thanks in advance.

[Boat Doc']

Theles, those motors have a bunch of ignition interference that may effect radios and depth sounders. If you are not experiencing any problems then you can stay with the non resistor plug.

[Mrduckman]

Boat Doc-Thanks

[wannacatchem]

Boat Doc...I have new 3.0 liter Merc inboard. It's time to change the oil. The manual recommends 25-40 weight marine oil. I've looked everywhere and can't find that weight. How about a heavy duty 15-40 weight made for hard use. Delo is the name brand I've had mentioned to me

Thanks

[bobber_boy]

I have a 9.9 2002 evinrude 4 stroke that I am currently changing the spark plugs on. I got the top one out (barely :smash:) but the second one on the bottom I can't reach with a spark plug wrench because the fuel pump is in the way. Do you have any suggestions? :help: [image]http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/

[Boat Doc']

wannacatchem, the 25-40 is available from anybody that sells Mercury branded oil. If it is not available then they recommend a straight 30 weight. The possible problem with the 15 base weight is it may break down under hard use.

[Boat Doc']

bobber_boy,unfortunately i'm not familiar with current Johnson/Evinrude- But if the pump is in the way its gotta go

[bobber_boy]

okay, i'll give it a try. thanks for the help.

[bobber_boy]

My dad's 23 ft. NR commander is getting 1 1/2 miles to the gallon going 20 to 27 miles an hour in the ocean with a 496 coupled to a hamilton 212 pump. We burned 36 gallons of fuel in 4 hours at 3200 rpm's. is this normal fuel consumption and is there any aftermarket parts we can get to burn less fuel? these 100 dollar boat fuel ups every trip are getting tiresome. :sick:

[sturgn]

Hi,
I have a question or 2 on fuel useage, I recently finished
rebuilding a 25' Wellcraft Airslot, I love the boat in every way, but I need to get it to use less fuel. At current I am using 10+GPH running at around 3200RPM, which is around 18knots. I have a Volvo Penta 280(350 Chev v8) and I have the following options that I can try;

-Leave it stock with the 4BBl thats on it
-I have a Holley Projection marine unit that is a 2bbl TBI system, I think it would be nice but to many things to go wrong on a boat.
-I have access to a 2BBl manifold and carb

Out of these three options I like the idea of going to a 2bbl and running it like that for simplicity(I am 45 miles offshore alot) but I am not sure what this will do to the overall performance of the boat, I am looking to maximise my fuel efficiancy and still be able to run around 20knots!

So any of you have any ideas which I should try?

Also I notinced the other day that I have a Stock GM HEI distributor in the boat, and where the computer is supposed to hook up(There is no computer) there is a jumper that forces teh distributor to run at base timing which is 10 degrees, will I get better fuel effeciancy by installing a distributor that advances to 28degrees like its supposed to?

Thanks for your time!

[Tacklebuster]

Boat Doc,
I have a new Yamaha 150 four stroke. The Max Rpm's should be 5000 to 6000 Rpm's. I was able to achieve 5400 to 5500 Rpm's a week ago but yesterday on my way back in from the ocean, I could only get 5100 Rpm's out of her max? The load weight on the boat was about the same, maybe a touch more and the conditions was smooth water in Yaquina bay with little current and just a touch of a breeze? My Rpm's were dowmn and so was my top speed. Any suggestions :help:

[Flatfish]

Boat doc,

yesterday while heading in from the ocean, the big motor died. It acted like it had the key turned off. No sputtering or coughing. It will start up and idle perfectly. It will run up to about 3000 rpm. I had it at 2600 rpm for 10-15 seconds sustained and it sounded perfect. But if I gave it more throttle( about 3000 rpm) it dies.

The gas bulb takes about 4 pumps until it is hard. The water seperator is brand new( 50 gallons of gas). The fuel filter is brand new. The kicker runs perfect.

The guages all read fine. The tell tale stream is cool.

It is a 2001 Yamaha 250 saltwater 2 stroke.

Where do I start?

Thanks.

Mark and the dog.

[Boat Doc']

BB, As a general rule of thumb any motor will use 10% of its rated horsepower in fuel per hour. If you throttle back it decreases dramatically. What you are describing is'nt abnormal nor is there after market stuff available. Remember you gotta pay to play! The harder you play the more you pay.

[Boat Doc']

sturgn,The consumption you are seeing is normal for the rpm you're running. I would guess that you're not getting into the secondarys at that rpm so it might be nice to leave the 4bbl on for extra power when you need it. I would look at different props that may allow you to maintain the same speed at lower rpms such as the Mirage by Mercury.

[Boat Doc']

sturgn, sorry I missed the rest of your post, by all means remove the jumper or install a distributor that functions correctly. It is very important that you're total advance doesn't exceed specs or you will have serious engine damage.

[Boat Doc']

Tacklebuster, If weather and sea conditions were comparable along with engine trim then you may be experiencing the fuel injector screens or high pressure fuel pump sreen starting to plug and restricting fuel flow. If the rpm's continue to decrease then it would be necessary to remove the components and clean the screens. Also on 4 stroke injected outboards it would be recommended to run injector cleaner in the fuel once every fourth tank or so.

[Boat Doc']

flatfish, my first guess would be fuel, have someone squeeze the bulb at the rpm you're having problems at. If it works ok try a seperate fuel source to isolate the problem to the tank or motor.If it doesn't work then it is likely ignition and would have to go to the dealer. If this is a jet drive make sure the reverse cup is locked all the way down in forward gear.

[suckerfish]

I am having some issues with an old Merc 125hp. The motor runs fine at an idiel, and fast idiel. However, motor fails to pick up RPMS above fast idiel. The motor has been stored for a few years without being run. What are some areas I should look at? Motor ran fine when pulled off old boat.

Thanks

suckerfish

[pearl]

Dear Boat Doc - I have a 2000 15hp 4 stroke Honda. Last time out the motor started to spew oil out. In removing the cowling the oil was coming out my air intake. I pulled the plugs and they are getting oiled up. Oil level is correct.

Any ideas ?

Thanks, Pearl

[Boat Doc']

suckerfish, sounds like you need to thoroughly clean the carbs, they are likely partially plugged from storage

[Tacklebuster]

Dear Boat Doc,
I have a 04 Yami 150 four stroke. I got about thirty hours on it and when I was checking the oil yesterday, I noticed small spots of oil on the bottom of the outboard kinda pooled up at the back of it. I also noticed small drops of oil around some bolts. Is this normal for break in or do I need to bring it back to the dealer?

Thanks,
TB

[Boat Doc']

Pearl, First guess would be that the crankcase has or had to much oil in it from overfilling or from the engine running cold caused by the thermostat not functioning or taking to much hot water from the block for a hand washing station. Next would be a blown base gasket or low compression pressurizing the sump. If it smells like fuel the first two options would apply or a bad fuel pump. However these would also result in high oil level. Removing the breather hose and checking for excessive crankcase pressure would verify a gasket or compression problem

[Stratocaster]

Boat doc, i have a 175 sj. It recommends the merc or quicksliver lube, but they do not state the weight of the lube. I found some Amsoil 80/90 synthetic marine gear lube. Would you recommend using this product in the gear drive and stator? Dan

[Boat Doc']

Stratocaster, going by the book you should use the Merc stuff. However somebody makes it for them. As long as it's a 90 wt. you should be fine.

[Stratocaster]

Thanks Doc. One more question regarding the cold start problem.(175sj) I read your post and was a little confused on where to wire. Will i not need to wire to a constant power(to prime pre-start) on the open side of switch and then to the primer pump? If so where? So all together i need two wires, one to power one to switch and then to pump?

Never mind i got it figured out. BTW, is the pump supposed to sound like a distant tractor when primed?

[suckerfish]

Doc,

What are the max RPMS I should run with an older merc 125hp, Jet-Drive. I am thinking no more that 5300, but not real sure.

Thanks

suckerfish

[shalom]

Boat Dock,
I have a Suzuski 1998 225 hp and keep haveing problems with the oil warning light and alarm. I have had it in twice to a dealer and they put a new oil filter inside the motor. It works good for 35 or 40 gallons of gas then it starts comeing on again, the latest time I had over filled the oil resivoir because i was going on a long trip .I put the cap on the resivoir with out spilling any oil . I flled it as full as i could and tighted the cap. When i got to Brownlee resivoir i noticed that the oil had leaked out from the top of the cap because the motor was tilted up to drive and it had leaked from the cap .I cleaned every thing up and when fishing . I had burned about 15- gallons of gas when the warning light started going off again .Any ideas would be great, except buying a new motor would not be cool !!!!!!!

Thank you for this forum and your help in this matter . :jester: :dance: :yay: :dance: :angel1:

[Boat Doc']

suckerfish, I agree with the 5300 limit, My books are gone from that far back regardless whether it has 4 or 6 cylinders you would be fine.

[Boat Doc']

shalom, I assume this is a two stroke. It sounds like the internal reservoir isn,t being replenished or the cap is allowing the oil to leak out past the minimum level. You might try filling the reservoir after you get to the water and see if it is still leaking. It could be as simple as replacing the cap.

[Phil Layer]

Dear Boat Doc,

Thanks for taking the time to answer all of these questions. You are providing an amazing service without charging. I, for one, really appreciate it.

:cheers:

[Tacklebuster]

Hi Boat Doc,
I got a brand new 04 Yami 150 four stroke. Every time I take her for a good run and tilt my motor up and drive home, I got some burnt oil pooled up in the back of the cowling. I can not find a "leak" anywhere and the guys at the dealership are baffled as well. The last time I went out, I made sure and cleaned up all the residual oil in the bottom and sure enough, it was there again. They told me it was safe to run it and I wouldn't hurt anything. Got any ideas?

Thanks

[Spotted Owl]

Hey Boat Doc

We have a hamilton 212 pump and need a new motor. Please don't ask why just leave it at we need a new one. The boat is a 22' thunder jet. Right now we have a marine power 350. What would be able to couple up to our pump and still give us the power that we need and are used to. Right now we can push 41mph at 4100rpm and we would like to stay right there and if absolutly no other way lose as little as possible. Please tell us that there is something other than marine power that we can put back in.

Your help is greatly appreciated

[shalom]

Hello Boat Doctor ,
Thank you for your reply to my post about haveing a problem with my 1998 SUZUSKI 225hp 2- stroke .My first post to you was back about 5- post telling about the problem with the oil warning light comeing on . I have tried loosening and even taking the cap off,and the warning light still comes on when the motor get about 3500 rpms .If the weather is
hot it doestn't come on . most of the time it works like normall . The reason that i mentioned in my previous post about over filling the oil resivoir and the leaking of oil was,there is an oil line ? on the top of the resivoir that wouldn't normaly have no way for oil to get to it unless it was over filled and tilted up . I was wondering if that line needed to be taken off and cleaned .I didnt't know if there was some kind of sensor on that line that would make the warning light come on .It seemed like the warning light started comeing on shortly after i overfilled the resivoir this time, and i didn't know if getting oil in that line would start makeing the light act up again .
Thank you for any further help ., i appreceate your taking the time to read all of the many request and help .

P S , I tryied to take that line off and it didn't want to come off so i didnt't want to force anything and cause more problems .
:jester: : :dance: :yay: :dance: :angel1:

[Boat Doc']

tacklebuster, we occassionally see problems with the oil being filled to the top of the range on the dipstick. You might try lowering the oil level to the mid point and see if you still have problems. The only other thing I can think of is leaking valve covers, base gasket or head gasket, or breather hose.

[Boat Doc']

Spotty, you can use any late model 350. Assuming the bolt on components are ok the options in order of cost are, replace the block and reuse the internal components, or buy a rebuilt MARINE engine from a local reliable source, or a base engine from Marine Power or Kem etc. Lastly is a complete engine from one of the same places. Good luck.

[Boat Doc']

Phil, not that familiar with Suzuki but if the reservoir is full then it may not be oil. Any possibility it's overheating?
Doc'

[suckerfish]

Boat Doc,

I need to install a Tach. I have a new wiring harness and controlls. I hand to purchase an adapter to hook into the old merc. Are these wiring harnesses wired for tach? If so what are the approriate colos! If they are not wired, what would be the proper way of hooking a tach up. Do I need to use a marine Tach, or can I get away with using a 6cycl automotive tach. By the way thanks for the help.

suckerfish

[Boat Doc']

Suckerfish, you don't say what the application is,but in general terms you are looking for the following three wires to make the tach function. black to ground,purple to 12 volts with key on and gray to sender.

[shalom]

My Suzuski only leaked oil one time when i over filled it .My problem is the oil warning light keeps comeing on. I have had it to a dealer twice and it is happening a third time . When the motor gets to 3500rpm the light comes on . Not aalway . When it is hot out it seams to work ok .When it is cooler out the warning light comes on .Why do es the oil light keep comeing on ? :jester: :dance: :yay: :dance: :angel1:

[steele]

Thanks for this , it sure has been informative.
What are the disadvantages when someone has replaced the original marine motor with a car motor in a merc i/o.
Thanks Steele :whazzup:

[slabhunter]

Doc,
I have an '02 22' Intruder with an electrical problem. One of the splices (in the bilge area :hoboy:)failed and had no power to the helm. My local dealer is backed up so I,m looking at a two week wait. Can I just use automotive crimp on connectors and reroute the wires to keep them drier? Is there a good way to clean the green stuff off the wire before splicing? Thinking about covering with some liquid electrical "tape".
Edit pic added.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/3340000_0067.JPG

[Boat Doc']

Shalom, unfortunately I don't know- would have to refer you to a Suzuki dealer

[Boat Doc']

Steele, the differences depending on model would be, crankshaft,pistons,heads,camshaft, coreplugs and if used carb, starter, alternater and distributor

[fishyone]

Hi Boat Doc,
I have a 1yr old Stryker with a Honda 65 Jet 4-stroke, and Honda 9.9 4-stroke kicker. Both are connected to the same gas tank via a fuel/water separator filter. I recently was trolling and apparently ran out of gas (both engines would not start), but actually did not. I went to get a 5 gallon can of gas, and the tank was full, it wouldn't even take the full 5 gallons.

I figured it must have been the filter (although its only 1 year old), removed the gas hose from the big motor and put it straight into the 5 gallon portable gas tank. Pumped the gas in with the bulb, and it started right up.

I took the boat to someone to look at, and they said I need to disconnect the gas hose from the motor I'm not using so it doesn't suck gas/air from the other carb. Is this true? Sounds like a design error in my opinion. If it is true, isn't there an automatic one-way check valve I can put in line to each motor?

Thanks a bunch, but I'd rather not be connecting/disconnecting gas hoses all day. :smirk:

[Boat Doc']

slabhunter, you should be able to get the shrink connecters at most places that sell wiring connecters. If you cut the corroded part back and splice it and relocate it it should be fine.

[Boat Doc']

fishyone, I think whats happening is the check valves on the primer bulb of the main engine are not seating and the troller is drawing from the path of least resistance until it runs out of fuel. Make sure the main engine primer bulb is pointing at least slightly uphill or more. If problem persists you may have to replace the primer bulb.

[Salmon Loser]

Boat Doc I have a 1988 merc 100 hp and latly when I start it for the first time it beeps at me for a few secounds. After that it starts without a sound for rest of the day. Thanks for any help.

SL

[shalom]

Thank You Boat Doctor ,
I have had it into the Suszki Dealer twice . Thank you for your help .They have talked to the factory and haven't come up with anything . I am thank full for all of your help . :jester: :dance: :yay: :dance: :angel1:

[Boat Doc']

Salmonloser, it would be common for it to beep when the key is turned on- but not when it's running. If the horn sounds while it's running it's either low on oil or is overheating. If the oil is full and it's not overheating it's not uncommon for the warning module to fail and give a false warning. It's a small black box located at the lower rear corner of the oil tank and attached to the block. Hope this helps.

[Salmon Loser]

Thanks this helps alot

SL

[FISHFINDER]

Doc,

I have a 175 Sportjet. Since new, when turning it over the starter quits turning before it fires. I turn the key off and back on and it turns over again. Sometimes until it starts, sometimes it does it again before starting. Normal? or not?

Thanks in advance,
Dave

[Boat Doc']

Dave,if it stalls it's not normal- check battery and connections and maybe starter itself. If it disengages from flywheel and keeps spinning it may be incorrect starting procedure- do not advance throttle when starting. It could also be flooding which would also make it run poorly after it starts or maybe idle speed is to fast which could also cause the same symptom. To answer your question- maybe if the previous conditions don't apply.

[Hunter56787]

I'm puzzled about the oil to use in the upper gear case on a OMC I/O, I know that I need to use electric shift type hypoid oil in the lower unit, but I've been told every thing from SAE30 to 85-140 rear end oil and standard hypoid oil for the upper gear case. What should I use and how much does it take (there is not a dip stick).

My inboard was so much easier!

Hunter

[HntnFsh]

Dave,
Our sportjet does the same thing.I havent been able to find a fix for it.I've tried everything I can think of other than buying a new starter.If you find the answer to the problem I would appreciate it if you let me know.I'll do the same for you.
Rick

[Boat Doc']

Hunter, the capacity is 16.6 oz.If you turn the wheel to the left and look on the right side of the upper housing you will see two slotted screws. Fill it from the bottom until it comes out the top.

[Hunter56787]

Thank you! What oil do I put in it?

[Boat Doc']

Hunter, oops! they recommend 90 weight

[ANDYCOHO]

Boat Doc'

I have a 1999 Bayliner Trophy 2052 with a 4.3 ltr. V-6 Merc Cruiser. The motor has less than 50 hours and runs great....except when I turn the key off, then it "Runs On" or "Diesels"...keeps runnin' rough for another 10-15 seconds until it finally dies....

Any help would be appriciated! :bowdown:

[Hunter56787]

Thank you very much! Although I only find one drain/fill hole on the side and one on the very top?

[SandySteel]

I have a 2002 Mercury 4 horse 4 stroke kicker with very little mileage. It was purchased at Stevens. It won't kick over. I have determined that it is getting fuel. I believe that it is not getting adequate spark. I determined this by holding the spark plug (only one cylinder on this little guy) against a grounded bare bolt on the engine and looking for a spark. The only spark I got was very weak. I then hooked up a non resistor plug (a champion J6C for my old OMC) and got a good strong spark. (I didn't install it just looked to see if I could get a spark) Thinking it was the plug I replaced it and I still had a weak or no spark and it still wouldn't turn over. I think the problem is that I either have a weak coil or a malfunctioning control module. Or is this a magneto setup for this guy? Do you have an opinion and what is the availability of the parts to do the repair?

[Boat Doc']

Andycoho, you need to verify timing is set to specs. set idle speed as low as possible and wait about 30 seconds at idle before shutting down. If you still experience problems you can put in a 140 degree thermostat and go a heat range colder on the plugs. Allowing it to diesel can cause engine damage and should be avoided.

[Boat Doc']

Hunter the ones on the side are about 5 inches apart. If you only have one at the bottom then the top one requires a dip stick which is part of the plug- yours may have broken off.

[Boat Doc']

Eric, it is a magneto set up. I would disconnect the lanyard switch - it may be partially grounded or clip may be missing. Parts should be readily available should you need any. The most common problems we see are lanyard switch and oil fouling from improper storage.

[red willie]

doc, i have a 200 vmax that has never had a porblem untill now. its has started to run rough. the only thing i have done different i had to put plus fuel in it last weekend insted of prem. they were out of it at the station.

when i get up on to plain now it stays rough at all rpm's.

water in gas?? wrong gas??
plugs?

help. please.. :help: :help: :shrug: :shrug:

[Boat Doc']

I would guess water, try flushing the fuel system and changing the filter. Good luck

[red willie]

how do you flush the the fuel system? :bowdown:

[Boat Doc']

Red willie, dump or replace the water seperating filter, remove the drains on the float bowls and squeeze the primer bulb until clean fuel comes out. You will need some towels for clean up. Make sure the battery is off or disconnected. It may not hurt to change the plugs while you're at it.

[SandySteel]

I found the lead for the lanyard switch and checked it for continuity with the lanyard on the switch and it was an open circuit. I pulled the lanyard off and it closed the circuit. It looks like it is working properly. By the way this is a 2000 I was off by 2 years.
I regapped the spark plug and it gave me a good spark.
So I decided to look at fuel. I squirted a little gas in the combustion chamber and it took off on the second pull. So my suspicion is that it has some carbueration problems possibly related to using old gas.
Any quick solutions or things I am overlooking? The fuel pump seems to be working (it squirted gas when I pulled on the starter) and I seem to be getting fuel to the carb as it started to drip out of what I assumed was the overflow on the top of the carb when I squeezed on the bulb. I think that the carb is not delivering fuel to the combustion chamber. Ideas?

[Boat Doc']

Eric, the best solution is to remove and thoroughly clean the carb. Don't overlook the smaller passages that could be plugged.

[Trout Tako]

Boat Doc,

I was recently given a 1980 19' SeaRay Inboard/Outboard with a 165 merc cruser in it. :smile: Yaaay Free Boat. The motor is newer - installed in the late 90s and I was told that the outdrive is the one that preceeded the Alpha 1. The boat has a problem with its coolant intake - sounds like the pump is broken. I have heard that there is an external kit you can mount to take care of this problem or you can tear it down & fix it the right way. How big of an issue is this? What kind of cost would be associated with having you guys take a look at it and possibly do the repairs? Sorry for my info being a bit on vague side - I will be picking up the boat this evening. I am really trying to figure out if I am diving into a money pit...AKA the free boat that costs more than a new one :blush:.

Thanks for your help, I really appreciate the service you provide to us Ifishers :angel: -

Tako

[Pete]

I have a 2004 8 HP 2 stroke that gave up the ghost yesterday. After about 3 hours of trolling, it sputtered, then quit. I was unable to restart it then and it still won't restart. I've replaced the plugs, but that didn't make a difference, still no go. It's got fuel, but it seems like it has no spark.

What else should I look at before I unshackle the unit and bring it in for direct diagnosis?

[Boat Doc']

Tako, there is a water pump located in the drive that is easily servicable. There is other things that could cause an overheat condition like water supply hose and blocked or restricted passages in block, riser or manifold. The water pump is the place to start first and the cost would be approx. 350.00 depending on condition. Keep in mind this could easily escalate. There isn't anything you couldn't do without a manual.

[Boat Doc']

make sure the lanyard switch is in the run position,if you bring it buy make sure you let me know - they will look at it immediately.

[SeaSparrow]

We are hoping to install a kicker bracket for a 15hp 4 stroke onto our 20' i/o fiberglass boat. Am very concerned about the possibility of cracking the transom over time without adequate reinforcement of the transom. What type of reinforcement would we need to have installed?

[Boat Doc']

Seasparrow, we normally put an aluminum plate on the inside to spread the load. You could also glass in some wood to reinforce it, especially if it is real thin.

[CapNRiverMan]

I just bought a 2003 boat with a Mercury 200 optimax jet. We were out at Devil's Lake running about 2500 rpms when suddenly the engine shutdown. When I tried to start it again, it started right up, but when I throttled up, it shutdown again. Then I tried to start again and did'nt get my computer bell and it wouldn't turn over.

So I checked all the fuses and they where ok. It started up but shutdown again when I throttled up. We had to get towed back to the dock.

When I got home I checked a spark plug and it looked good. Then I noticed that the cover was loose and the strap that is supposed to be attached to the back of the engine was missing. I re-seated the cover(air filter?). THen I took it down to my local boat ramp and she started right up and stayed running even after throttle. However, I was unable to open up the throttle fully.

My question is, did the loose cover cause my problems?

Thanks

[Trout Tako]

Thanks Doc,

I picked up the boat from the owner last night and discussed the problem with him further. He said he has the manual and explained how to take the outdrive apart. He also said that if you hook the garden hose on the outdrive via one of those hose clamp attachments to run water through the engine it runs great in the driveway & won't overheat. I also found out that the boat is a model year 1978. Would I be able to order the part through you guys & how much do you figure it will run?

What would you guys charge to give the boat a once over & check for anything else that may be broken or about to fail?

Sorry for all the $ questions, I am working on this with a buddy of mine and we are both on tight budgets having just purchased houses. I'd love to have you guys do the work on it & if we could get this thing knocked out for around $350 we could make it work. However like you implied we may be opening a can of worms & wouldnt be able to afford much m0re than that :depressed:.

Thanks again,

Matt

[suckerfish]

Doc. I am looking to convert my 1973 50hp merc serial # 3575524 to a tiller. What is the proper application tiller for such a swap. My merc has electric start/choke. No power t/t. I would like to know before I make a costly mistake and purchase the wrong tiller. Part#'s or stock#'s would be helpfull.

Thanks for taking the time to answer these questions. Your service is appreciated.

Thanks

suckerfish

[Boat Doc']

CapNRiverman, Not knowing exactly what you're referring to I would say probably not, unless it was interferring with the throttle shutter. It almost sounds like the reverse cup isn't locking all the way down.

[Boat Doc']

Matt, a complete water pump kit wouldn't exceed a hundred bucks. You should take it apart first and see what it needs. Our shop is backed up about 4 weeks at this time. It would run about 175.00 to go thru it and see what it needs at that time. Of course if you do the work yourself you save 82.00 an hour.

[Boat Doc']

suckerfish, as near as I can tell they are no longer available. There should be a ton of used ones out there somewhere. Try Oregon Outboard Salvage or Fairview Marine. The original part number was 78551a5. That handle was used for many applications. It is identified by the hard plastic hand grip.

[Trout Tako]

Thanks for the advice - I'm going to try and work through it myself next week.

Tako

[bender]

Hi, I have a 1998 8hp Honda. When I start it, it will blow smoke for about 30 sec. Then it will clear up and does not smoke any more.
The motor has low hours, so I was told when I bought it. 1 year ago sports craft did a tune up on the motor. The leak down test was 96% in each cylinder.
I guess what I’m asking is, Is this normal to smoke a little or are the oil rings worn. I’ve changed the plugs in it once, and one of them was a little oil fouled, the lower plug.

Thank you for any help
David

[Shaker-King]

Boat Doc,

I have a 2004 20' Intruder with a Yamaha 150hp four stroke, the prop is 14.5 x 19. I am pleased with the way the boat is getting out of the hole and the top speed is in the upper 40s. But, at WOT I am only getting to 5300-5400 RPM. Is the prop putting to much load on the engine?

I noticed on Yamaha's web site that most of the boats tested with 19 pitch props were typically 13.75". What effect would a smaller diameter prop have?

[Boat Doc']

David, a couple of minor things could cause what you are describing. engine not coming up to temperature- check thermostat, engine running to rich, check mixture adjustment and make it as lean as possible but still have acceptable warm up period and throttle response, oil fuel contaminated- change it and refer to above suggestions to prevent it. Finally rings not seated- run it hard at high rpm for about an hour.

[Boat Doc']

Shaker-King, your motor is supposed to run 5-6000 rpm. You're running right in the middle and are probably experiencing the best performance and economy with what you have. If you decrease the diameter it will change steering torque, effect hole shot and may decrease top end compared to where you are now. It might be interesting to try a couple of different props in different blade configurations, but I don't think you're going to improve much on what you have.

[bobber_boy]

Boat Doc,
My dad's NorthRiver sled has some dis-coloring on the muffler tips. Is this normal? http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/5668exhaust_016.jpg
Also, sometimes on the first start up of the day the 496 chev. won't turn over, but I can hear the starter motor going. I cleaned the solenoid and commecters and made sure the batteries had a full charge, but it didn't seem to help at all. Could you assist me?

[CapNRiverMan]

I have a 20' North River Sportster that has a cutout for a little kicker outboard motor. When I went to mount the motor, I discovered that the motor shaft is about 3 inches too short. What are my options? I saw a boat in the harbor yesterday that mounted their motor off the swim platform. any other ideas would be appreciated. Thanks! :help:

[Boat Doc']

BB, sounds like the solenoid isn't functioning correctly. If you keep trying and eventually it works that would for sure be the problem. On the exhaust tips it looks they are becoming corroded, if they are clean and paint them and make sure they are grounded to the battery either directly or indirectly.

[TundraIII]

Dear Boat Doc.....Help!!! I have a dry heat exchanger, bone dry. My hoses are good and I have plenty of coolant in the rest of the system. I disconnected the intake line at the exchanger, hooked up the garden hose to the out drive and turned the engine on. I put the OD in gear and got nothing out of the disconnected hose. I'm thinking bad impeller in the out drive water pump but not sure as I have very little knowledge of this system. All I know is that the exchanger is not getting water and I dont know what to do next. The boat is a 1975 Glasply with a straight six Chevy 165 hp and Mercruiser Out Drive. I'll take any advice online or a phone call at 503-312-6315. Thanks, Mike

[Boat Doc']

Tundra111, First thing to check would be the outdrive water pump, also look at the water supply hose - turn the wheel hard right and you will see a 5/8 hose next to the u-joint bellows. Inspect it for tears and kinks

[Bobby Ray]

Hey there Doc :dance:

I have a head scratcher for ya. "My 91 Merc 150 is running great!!! Except for the fact that after about a minute of running it screams like a banshee! The screamer alarm comes on and won't stop for awhile. If I shut it down, and let it sit for about 10 seconds it will start back up with no screamer. Than a minute later, SCREAM!!!!! It has plenty of oil, it is peeing and not hot to the touch.............

Oh, if I keep running it, ignoring the alarm, it will eventually stop on it's own. Only to do it again the next time I run it!!! "

Thanks for reading

[Boat Doc']

big n bright,if it's a steady horn the motor thinks it's hot. If it is not then the senser that is located between #1 and 3 cylinder is probably bad. The temperature should be checked at the rpm the horn is sounding at. I would advise you not to ignore it until you know for sure it isn't overheating. Also it would be a good idea to replace the water pump and related gaskets if you havn't done so in the last couple years.

[Thunder jet]

Boat Doc

I have a 175 sport jet and I am going over to Idaho(Boise area) for some fishing. I am wondering if alltitude will have an effect on performace? If so what do I need to do? Thank You

[Boat Doc']

Basinhntr,Anything over 2000 ft will effect idle quality and performance. You can lean out the idle mixture jets to make the idle better, I wouldn't recommend any other changes for a short trip. Those changes being main jets. If you do change main jets they must be changed back before running at lower elevations or severe engine damage will result. Making changes to idle mixture will have no adverse effects.

[trollin4trout]

Dear Boat Doc:

I'm attempting to replace the impeller in my 2000 25HP Merc 4-Stroke. (I ordered a manual online but it was not the right one for my motor) So now I'm wingin' it. The question for now :smile: is- how is the shift rod disconnected so that the lower unit can be removed? The top end appears to be solidly "embedded" in the plastic shift "cam". The bottom end has a rubber boot around it which is tywrapped in place.
I can't feel anything thru the boot which might be a bolt or screw there. Can you help?

Thanks, Jim

[bobber_boy]

Boat doc,
This weekend, we were fishing in the ocean and we slammed on a wave on the way out and our 2001 9.9 evenrude came down and broke the bolt that holds up the lower unit.
How easy is it to replace that bolt and how much does it cost?

[Boat Doc']

Jim, the shift shaft has a retainer at the top that needs to be slid out of the way to remove the clip. This is under the top cowl.

[Boat Doc']

Bobber boy, If you can get to it you should be able to drill it out or grab it with a pair of pliers. We don't have parts or service for johnson/evinrude. It shouldn't cost much. Try your local dealer. If it does require an expensive part you can use a block of wood or other suitable means of support to hold it up.

[theles]

Dear Boat Doc,

I just bought a boat with a 1995 90HP Mercury Tracker 2 stroke outboard and have 2 questions if you don't mind:

-the guy that had it before me removed the oil injection system and prefered to mix his own 50:1 gas. He couldn't find the oil injection system when he sold me the boat. I would like to have it added back, but have no idea how much work and money is involved; can you advise?

-there are rollers on the 1996 EZ Loader; could Stevens convert it to a bunk for me?

Thanks!

[Boat Doc']

theles, be very careful that you get the correct parts to match the fuel pump configuration on your motor. After installation continue to mix the fuel until you verify the engine is using oil from the reservoir. I'm assuming the oil tank is there, parts are as follows. You may already have some of these.
oil pump 175.00
drive gear 35.00
adapter hsg. 24.00
warning module 82.00
Would have to verify model and serial number of the trailer but I'm told by E-Z Loader that conversion to carpeted bunks is relatively inexpensive, about 120.00. You could easily do it yourself, most brackets are already there.

[CapNRiverMan]

Boat Doc, :help:

I'm starting to get rather frustrated with my 2003 200HP Optimax Sport Jet.

The motor had 24 hours on it, after going out a couple of times I had about 26 hours and the engine just quit. I was able to immediately start it back up, but when I hit the throttle, it shuts down. I thought I may have found the problem when the cover/air filter was not seated.

I put an additional 10 hours on the motor with no problems, then it shut down again with the same symptoms. I noticed a slight decrease in RPMs just before it shuts down. If I stay at idle speed, it seems to stay running.

Fuel filter? Water Separator Filter? (it has two water separator filters, one right out of the tank that splits to kicker supply, then another after the in line fuel filter).

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Riverman

[Boat Doc']

Riverman, would recommend checking the fuel system from tank to engine looking for loose connections, kinks etc. Change fuel filters. If problem persists you should take it to a dealer and have the computer checked for stored fault codes and check the fuel/ air pressure. If you are not getting any alarms it has to be a air-fuel problem or connections.

[HUNTER1]

Boat Doc,

I have a 99 175 sport jet with 300hrs. The motor starts like a typical SJ when cold, however last 2 trips I have ran 15 minutes to the fishing grounds, shut down the SJ and trolled for 30 minutes or so. Upon re-starting the big motor, I have had to crank it 5 to 6 times at 10 to 15 seconds per cycle to get it going again. The funny thing is I can shut down after a 5 minuter ride, wait 5 minutes and start back up without a problem. Fuel is fresh, water seperator looks clean, plugs look good. Could I have a vaccum leak, or possible fuel pump issue. The motor accelerates perfect.
Of course this pops up the week before I head to Astoria.

PS: The previous owner did the fuel pump mod you mentioned earlier. Didn't seem to work, I think it was wired incorrectly, so I wired it back to the original configuration

Thanks!!

[Boat Doc']

hunter1, sounds like the electric fuel pump isn't working. check for battery voltage at the power lead going to the electric pump while cranking. Also check the pump fuse. If it has power and ground and doesn't work it needs to be replaced.

[blackdog]

Boat Doc -

I have an older (approx. 1990) Honda 7.5 4stroke that up until last fall had been running pretty good. Start right up and troll all day without a hickup. Then during chinook season it began to falter occasionally while trolling at low RPM's. A little throttle and it would start back up. Sometimes giving it a little choke would help keep it running at the slowest speeds. This spring the pattern only got worse and now it doesn't want to run at trolling speeds hardly at all.

Any suggestions? Someone recommended a good carb cleaning, which I've never done before so if that's the case, ideas on that would also be appreciated.

Thanks.

[Boat Doc']

blackdog, I agree with a good carb cleaning. Get yourself a can of aerosol cab cleaner, remove the carb and every plug that unscrews. Blow thru all passage ways and make sure they are clear. Before removing the mixture screw count how many turns it takes to srew it in and reinstall it the same amount. If you see any water or debris eliminate the source and flush the lines with clean fuel before reinstalling.

[feisty's wife]

I own a 25 hp motor, Evinrude, that run"s great, bought it used...but I noticed the throttle handle is loose, it will come foward quite a way"s, is there supposed to be a retaining clip in there or something, if so, can you tell me what the best thing to do would be? I live in Brush Prairie, outside of Vancouver, so need to know of a reputable person/shop I could take this to....thnx for any help. :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:

[Boat Doc']

feisty, there is a retainer under the grip and also inside the handle, try to see what moves or doesn't and see what is loose at that point. I don't know of any techs in your area but somebody else probably does. You might try another post on that subject.

[Piscine Harvester]

Boat Doc,

I have a 1994 Honda 45 outboard on my boat. I recently got a West Marine dual purpose battery (deep cycle and cranking). The battery is a group 24 with 65 amp hrs.. I also run my sounder, gps, VHF, and bilge pump off of the same battery. I use the main engine (Honda 45) for trolling and have noticed at trolling speed (basically lowest position in gear) I am not getting a charge on the battery, in fact the voltage drops down to 12.5 volts and less. Recently on the Columbia when the engine died I went to start it and it would not crank, fortunately I have a backup battery that I switched to and started up with. My questions are:
1. Should I expect a charge at slow speed?
2. If not is the motor in fact drawing current at that speed or should I be searching for shorts in my other components (souder, gps, VHF, lights, etc.)
3. Should I isolate all the electronics to my backup and buy a cranking battery for the engine. I am concerned that the “dual purpose” battery is really marginal for both purposes.

Thanks for the advice.

Philip

[Boat Doc']

Philip,your motor is equipted with a 10 amp charging system, it would be normal to have no output at slowest speeds. The motor when running has no draw but of course when cranking it does. So if you take a short run to where you are fishing then run all day and maybe start and stop the engine a few times with your electronics running you will not replenish what you have taken away. Most economical recommendation would be dual batterys - one dedicated to engine other for accessorys with a switch so you can select which battery to run off of. You are correct that the dual purpose battery is marginal. If you are only doing short runs it may be necessary to charge the batterys after use. the electronics are only using about 2 amps so the point when the batterys go dead is probably after several days of use at low speed

[PRINCEMASTER]

I have a 95 evinrude that looses power once in a while at full throttle. I have replaced the ball for the fuel tank but now am at a loss as to where to look next. Question is can I remove the sensor plate on the gas tank to look and see if the problem is in the tank or does it have backing nuts that will get lost if I do.....HELP PLEASE :help:

[Boat Doc']

Princemaster, you probably won't see anything by removing the sender, there is no backing nuts. My advice would be to run it on a seperate fuel source and see if it's the motor or the fuel system. Try squeezing the ball when it does it to see if it makes a difference. If you have vacuum and pressure gauges you could check fuel pressure and vacuum.

[Chief_aj]

I was at both Steven's Marines location this past Saturday looking at an Alumweld Stryker. I had them price me out one with a few options but had a question about one of them when I drove home which is three hours away. I wanted a hot box as an option. I forgot to ask where and how this would be mounted on the Stryker. Do you happen to know? :shrug: Thanks.

[Boat Doc']

normal installation would be between the motors outside of transom. If you had a preference it could go almost anywhere. Just keep in mind it needs to drain

[Flatfish]

Dear Boat Doc,

I have a '95 22' Super Vee Pro. The gas tank vent is near the stern. The fill cap is back there too. When the boat is on the trailer, it rides with a bow up attitude.

When we fill the gas tank, fuel pukes out of the vent for several seconds before the gas nozzle will actually shut off.

On several trips in a row, I see fuel blowing out of the vent going uphill over the coast range( we do not fill it up after a trip because of this). Usually we burn 15-20 gallons thru the 50 gallon tank. So it is about 2/3rds full on the ride home. I check to see if it is fuel expansion, but there is no pressure when I open the fill cap.

Can I rotate the gas tank 180 degrees, and move the vent and gas cap to the bow( uphill should vent better)? I assunme the air in the tank is uphill, and the vent is under the pressure of the gas, causing it to pour out of the vent.

Should I move the vent to the bow, and leave the fuel fill cap at the stern?

Or do I just let it puke all over and clean it up when I get home? Once it is in the garage, things are fine.

Thanks.

Mark and the dog.

[Boat Doc']

flatfish, it may require a front vent if it doesn't already have one, also make sure hitch height is correct- trailer parallel with world- you should contact your local dealer and they- we can offer advice.

[billfish]

Boat Doc'

I have a Mercury 200 optimax. Can a fuel flow meter be installed on this motor so the return fuel line is out of the loop and have it do the job?
Thanks Billfish

[Boat Doc']

billfish, if you have or were to get a Smartcraft gauge besides showing hours,tach, temp, volts etc. it also shows fuel consumption. The motor doesn't have a fuel return line to the tank. You could put in a flo-scan or something similar. The cost may be about the same

[NAUTI-NOTIONS]

1989 trophy 300hp 351 with a cobra stern drive.
problem,
won't come out of gear. it kinda binds up at the point where it should come out. if i kinda bounce the control i can get to come out, but it doesn't feel right.
if i turn off the motor it falls in and out perfectly. but with the motor on its kind hard and feels as if something might break,,, no grinding just a bind feeling.
took it to the local boat shop and $500.00 and a new secondary shift cable later problem still there.
whats my next move?
Sam

[Boat Doc']

Sam, there is a switch and module that is supposed to interrupt the ignition when coming out of gear. It sounds lke it is either not hooked up, is misadjusted or in need of replacement.

[NAUTI-NOTIONS]

would that be the little micro switch located at the intersection of the two control cables? where is the module? is there a way to test the module.

[Boat Doc']

yes, check the switch to make sure it functions. If it does check all connections and change module if every thing else checks ok. Module is located on bracket by switch

[NAUTI-NOTIONS]

Thanks
I'm going to buy a manual and have noticed there are a couple types, all claiming to be the best. do you recommend one over the other.
IN MY QUEST TO UNDERSTAND
I have discovered that its called a ESA.
over the winter i replaced the points with an elect. conv. kit. in my reading it stated that the moduel sense's the impluse of the points. and if you installed the upgrade it will not work. is this correct and if so what is the fix.
this is where i've been reading : web page (http://www.hastings.org/~stuart/cobra/)

Thanks again
Sam

[Boat Doc']

Sam, manuals seem about the same. If possible get the OMC manual instead of aftermarket. These manuals will only refer to stock systems and would probably be of no help in aftermarket add ons. We don't deal with OMC anymore so I can't help. Checked out the web site you are referring to and it looks like there is a fix for the ESA if you have the expertise to do it. You may have adequate success in simply lowering the idle speed to take some pressure off the gears. Another option would be to get the OMC electronic ignition system with ESA module from a scrap yard and install it. You might try Fairveiw Marine or Oregon Outboard Salvage. Good Luck.

[bait boy]

Dear boat doc'

I have a 92 alumaweld formula vee with 302 redline with AT pump. I have reduced power while trying to get top rpm, also being very hard to start. sounds like there is an issue with the motor. I have replaced spark plugs and cap and rotor. cleaned the carb as well, I did not dissassemble it just sprayed out with carb cleaner. fresh tank of gas. almost sounds like its not hitting on all cylinders and may backfire once or twice. I will try changing the coil today as well. Any ideas?

What is the recommended cranking amperage for batterys?

[Boat Doc']

baitboy, If you have points, replace and correctly adjust points and condenser. Verify timing is correct. You will probably end up having to rebuild the carb. When running if you try slowly closing the choke and it picks up then it would be the carb or an air leak. Battery should be a minimum of around 650 cold cranking amps.

[bait boy]

Thanks Did that this morning and checked the coil as well works like a champ now. looks like I need new batteries.

thanks boat doc'

[Full Throttle]

Dear Boat Doc:

I have a yamaha outboard with a pump and understand that each time out you should give it a squirt of lubriplate, and especially after saltwater use. My question is how much grease should be added. Should I run out all the old grease each time to get rid of any saltwater that may have accumulated, or is it enough to add just enough to push out some of the old grease? Same question for wheel bearings after salt water use. Should I be adding enough new grease to push out all the old grease? I Want to make sure I'm doing this right. Thanks

[Jennie@ifish]

Bump for feisty--
J

[Smj]

Boat Doc:

I'm going to be replacing the waterpump in my '01 Merc 75 2-stroke soon. I have a fair amount of mechanical background and tools I need for the job. It appears to be fairly easy, only question is, anything special to watch out for?

RE:

Shift shaft
Hidden bolts/nuts
Torque values
Lubrication
Tricks for dissasembly/reassembly
Anti-sieze compound?

Great forum, THANX!

Smj

[Boat Doc']

full throttle, it would be my opinion to grease the jet until any water is displaced, typically no more the 2-3 pumps. On wheel bearings grease them only enough to fill the bearing buddy if equipted. Do not over fill or you may experience seal failure which can result in bearing failure.

[Boat Doc']

Smj, just watch to make sure the shift shaft and water tube are alighned correctly on reassembly, should be a peice of cake.

[Heliarc Runner]

Boat Doc,

I have a sled with a 454 and a Legend pump. Last week prior to going out I lubed the bearing where the pump meets the engine. I pumped grease in until old grease came out. I also tightened the the two bolts on the yoke as well. After powering up and getting some RPM up that bearing/conection point heated up big time. It was smoking a little. But was extremly hot. I imediately shut down and let it cool. after it was completely cold I loosened the two bolts and let the motor idle for a very long time without it getting even warm. after getting up to 3k+ RPM the area gets warm. Not smoking hot but uncomfortable to leave your hand on it for any amount of time. I don't know if this was normal prior to my goof up. Do you have an idea of what temperature is normal at that bearing/area?

[Boat Doc']

Heliarc Runner, the correct adjustment is to have a slight water spray or occasional drip at speed. It should be cool to the touch. Since it has been overtightened the beleif is that after loosening and running for a while it should reseat and cool down. If you need to clarify anything call Legend at 510-215-8456 they are knowledgable and willing to help. They said it would be fine to list the number and have anybody call.

[HntnFsh]

Boat Doc,
My electric fuel pump doesnt seem to be working.1998 175hp sport jet. Its hard starting and I cant hear the pump working when the cover is up.I did the mod sometime back and its been fine till the last couple times out.Is there an easy way to check it where the bullet connectors are.Like jumper wires from the battery? If its bad,what does one of those run? Thanks for the help.Its much appreciated.

[Green Machine]

Dear Doc-

I have a TJ with a 131 Kodiak 3 stage pump. I just upgraded the impellors to a 1x,5,2 series. It was a 5,5,2 before. The tolerance between the wear rings is .030, just right. The boat screams and runs great, but at certain RPM's I get a harmonic resonance sound. I checked the thrust bearing....it stays cool to the touch and has no water leakage. Any ideas? The sound is quite loud at 3000 RPM and in rough water ONLY. Smooth water it is fine? I am positive it is from the pump.

Thank you,
Green Machine

[Boat Doc']

HntnFsh,you can test it by hooking it directly to the battery, if it works check fuse, switch, wiring etc. If you need a new one they are around 125.00

[Boat Doc']

Green Machine, the different impellers are noticably louder, after talking to the folks at Kodiak it seems what you are hearing is normal for that impeller set up.

[Green Machine]

Greatly appreciated!!! Why would they be louder? Is it due to the size of the 1x overlap impellor? Really appreciate your help column.

Green Machine

[Uncle Milty]

Boat Doc,
You are very generous to donate your time and experience to this forum. Thank you.

[Boat Doc']

Green Machine,yes the aggresive bite is apparently what makes it louder

[Lomi]

Hey Boat Doc, got a question for you
A buddy of mine has a 73 115hp evinrude that is killin a brand new battery. He has been told that the stator is bad.
I dont really have any more details but would greatly appreciate a few troubleshooting ideas.

thanks in advance

[Boat Doc']

Lomi,It would be unusual for the stator to fail but it is possible. Normally the rectifier fails. You can check it by disconnecting all the wires then check continuity between the yellow wires and ground. Should have continuity one way and not the other by reversing meter leads. Having continuity both ways means it is bad. The rectifier attaches to the stator leads at the terminal block. You can check the stator for opens and shorts, there should be none.

[SandySteel]

Boat Doc
I have a horsepower rating question
I have an old '57 18 HP long shaft Evinrude. I am interested in buying a newer and more powerful motor. This one doesn't get my 16' wood boat up on step with more than one person in the boat.
It is my understanding that modern motors are rated for their HP at the prop. It has been suggested to me that this old motor may have been rated at the engine instead of at the prop.
According to Coast Guard requirements I shouldn't put larger than a 25 HP. I am just concerned that this is not a big increase in number but might actually be enough power if they are rated in a different way.
Would a modern 25 2 stroke give me enough power to get up and scoot?
I have a 21" transom height. Does this require a long shaft main motor?
According to the factory specs this boat weighs 400lbs dry and empty.

[Boat Doc']

Since about 1978 most motors started prop shaft ratings. A newer 25 hp engine would have significantly more power than your old 18 hp. Its right at 15% loss to the prop. 25 should be plenty of power for 3 people. Long shaft should work, if you experience excessive ventilation you may have to cut the transom about an inch

[mr.no-nets]

I'm no Boat Doc, but if you love your 8 horse 2 stroke Merc kicker you should forget about using an OMC oiler. I used one for years with my 8 horse Merc, and everything was fine until the day came when it failed. Without warning it quit mixing oil with the gas and my motor promptly burned up. This apparently happens quite frequently which is why the Merc dealers don't recommend using them. I now have to mix my gas and oil in a separate tank, and I hate it too. That is why I am giving in and getting a new four stroke. Sigh.

[Hardware]

Hey Boat Doc, got a question here.

1987 Yamaha 30 HP.

It runs perfect, both compression and oil injection have been checked.

BUT.... it might run for two minutes full tilt, or maybe ten, but then it will just flat out die. It will start again with some black smoke, and keep wanting to die.

I thought it was running out of gas, like a bad hose or tank. Switched them and it slightly improved, but still did it.

Think it may be a fuel pump???

Thanks!

[Boat Doc']

Hardware,might be the fuel pump, if it was you could squeeze the primer bulb and it should stay running. If it doesn't try another tank and line to isolate the motor or fuel system.

[Hardware]

well, if I squeeze the bulb, it just takes longer to die. think that still sounds like the pump?? It is a bit intermittent, but if i have more guys in the boat, it does it every time.

Thanks!

[chillybones]

doc, have you ever heard or know anything about a jet drive called "jetpac" out of florida? comes in a turbo diesil or gas model.hangs off the back of transom. :cheers:

[Boat Doc']

there is a place in Florida that sells a prop conversion the military uses. I don,t know the name but I have seen one. It's like a shrouded multi blade prop that is designed to withstand debris going thru it. I saw it on a 28 Evinrude. Sorry not much help.

[tman1]

hey do you anything sportjets are they any good i would apprec. any advise

[Boat Doc']

sportjets are simply an outboard motor coupled to a jet pump, they work very well and require very little maintenance. If purchasing used have it checked out.

[Rustyoar]

Hey doc thanks for your time

I am trying to locate the joint that links the shift cable to my jet nozzle ( ie my Foward and Reverse abality at the boot) on a 1991 60hs tiller pump. It is really hard to go from foward to reverse. The mercury online parts template doesn't show the lower ends of a pump, is there anywhere I can get the part number or even what you call it so when I come get one from you guys you will know what I am talking about. Right now it is a solid piece (red) that connects the cable to jet but it looks like it should have a pivot point in there instead of a solid piece.

Thanks

Thanks BOATDOC I ust backed the nut off a little and it is much eaiser to shift. THANK YOU.

[Boat Doc']

it's a cable end for a 33C cable. When you it back on leave the nut a little lose so it can pivot. Ideally bring the old peice in to compare.

[Talljeeper]

I hope I am doing this right...
Doc,
I am going to be the proud owner of a new to me 75 18' Seaswirl. The gentleman that owned it appears to have taken exceptional care of the vessel. It has a 140 hp I/O and an older Honda 7.5 kicker. It is based upon a 4cyl Chevy motor. I am really wanting to enhance this little motor. I have excellant motor skills with Jeeps. As a matter of fact Jeep used to use an "Iron Duke" 151 in past years.I know some Chevy parts will interchange.

Now in a nautical environment I am interested in limitations of this little 4 popper. I have figured I would probably look at typical performance enhancements like coil, pulg wires, possibly a synthetic oil, maybe a better arrested air cleaner,etc.. It is a points style ignition.

The outdrive appears very clean and maintained, and have been told it has has the lubricant changed regularly. I would like to go with a Marine graded synthetic in it as well. I am a BIG believer in synthetics due to it's spectacular shear qualities and stability. Grease will be syn. as well.

Transom is sound and intact, floor/stringers were repaired (professionally).

I am also interested in adding electronics so have been scouring information on adding additonal goodies. It already has a F/F and D/F.

What can you advise on some of my proposed upgrades. Any information you can share about this vessel, characteristcs, motor strengths/weaknesses etc....would be great
Thanks In Advance
Paul

[Boat Doc']

Talljeeper,there may be after market accessorys to hop up the 181 Chevy but I am not aware of who or what they may be. The only thing I would be concerned about on hopping up a boat engine is you typically sacrifice reliability. It can be difficult to walk home in the event of a problem. They still use those motors today- they are pretty bullet proof and the outdrive will withstand about 260 horse with out any problem. You might consider a bigger motor if you feel you need more power. Those boats if cared for hold up very well. So far as electronics, sounds like the only thing you may need is a good quality VHF.

[Talljeeper]

Dear Boat Doc,
What can you tell me about Penatrol for clean-up on a not too bad OEM blue gelcoat finish. My uncle claims it is the best for bringing color back. The finish is not bad for a 1975, but I would really love to make it vibrant....
I would imagine if it sounds to good to be true........
Any tips on White gelcoat and whitening it up? The blue is robins egg/sky blue...?
Also the Honda 7.5 4 stroke, feels weird in the handle. It doesn't turn (throttle up or down). Any other outboard I have seen you could always turn the throttle. Is there some particular sequence on the startup process. All it says on the tiller is Start/fast, if I remember right. It only feels like a little detent between the two. Shouldn't it twist?
Anyway, thanks in advance.
Paul
P.S. I picked the old girl up today and have been cleaning her like a madman. What a great boat, so far....super clean old ride!! :dance:

[Troller]

Boat Doc, After fishing this weekend I noticed that their appears to be a grease like substance around the exhaust opening on my 2001 carburated merc 200 2 stroke outboard with 92 hours on it. My first thought was how did grease get on that but looking closer it is all around the opening. Is this telling me I have water in my gas or oil. Or could something else be causing this problem. Is it something that needs to be looked at right away.

[HntnFsh]

Talljeeper.On the kicker motor I think it has to be in gear before you can turn the throttle.Unless the gear shift is in the throttle.I'm sure Boat Doc can give you more advice though.Hope this helps.

[Boat Doc']

troller,the exhaust releif has unburned oil and fuel coming out of it. when the oil trys to mix with water it may look like grease. if the motor idles well and runs smooth there is probably nothing to worry about. wouldn't hurt to check the lower unit oil and make sure it is full.

[Taylor's viewpoint]

Hi Boat doc, I have a 8.1 liter Kodiac with a Hamilton 212 pump in my sled and am having problems with the engine. It will start up fine but when I rev up the engine, it won't go over 3000 RPM. I have changed the fuel filters but no improvement. Removing the air cleaner also makes no difference. The throttle valve opens up fine. Any help would be appreciated.
TV

[Boat Doc']

talljeeper, sorry for the delay. I spoke to me fibreglass guy about penetrol, he had never heard of it nor have I. The best way to restore the luster to fibreglass is good old fashioned elbow grease. Anything else is only temporary. Thr trolling motor must be in gear to advance the throttle beyond a fast idle.

[Boat Doc']

Taylors veiwpoint, sorry for the delay, what will cause a rpm reduction besides filters would be fuel pressure below 35 lbs, knock sensor, low oil pressure and engine overheat. when a sensor goes back with in its range then the engine will operate normally until the problem reoccurs. In the above scenarios the engine will store a fault code that could be veiwed with the correct scan tool. If it has low fuel pressure no code would be stored but its easily checked when running at the rpm problem is occuring. Hope this helps you out.

[NWRedside]

Hi boat doc,
I just posted a new topic on jack plates under this forum. wondering if you could take a look at it and offer me some advice? thanks!

[1pump]

Yo, Boat Doc:
I have a '87 Merc 25M that I bought new from Stevens. There's 6 bolts that hold the powerhead to the lower unit (driveshaft housing?)
What's the proper torque for those bolts? I had one fall out and I want to make sure the others are tight enough. And should I use Loctite to make sure they stay in?
Thanx!

[Boat Doc']

200 inch pounds with loctite A

[Grain of Salt]

Boat Doc,
I have a 1987 merc classic 50 with a chronic flooding problem, after spending most of last winter in the shop with little results (rebuilds would fix it for a trip or two) I put 2 different rebuilt carbs on myself and it ran great for about 25 hours, now it is up to its old tricks again. It lugs under any load and fuel pours out of the vent hole...I am still assuming float/needle issues...
Once this problem starts it will clear itself up after 10 minutes on a couple of trips and then will eventually never clear up. I am tired of dismantling this engine, although I am pretty good at it now, what am I doing to cause this?
Does running the gas out lead to this? trailering on bumpy roads? disconnecting the fuel line when tilting?
I have good spark, good compression, a water filter/seperator, and the problem occurs when I try a remote tank... any help is appreciated.

[Boat Doc']

I would agree with float/needle issue. Something is getting in there. I would suspect the fuel lines and possibly fuel pump components may be deteriorating from alcohol in the fuel. You might try drawing a fuel sample from the carb supply line and see what it looks like after sitting for a while. Also make sure the float vent holes are not plugged. Only other thing I can think of would be to much fuel pressure, you might measure it, shouldn't be more than around 2-3 psi.

[SeaSparrow]

Hi Boat Doc'
On our 21' SeaPro, we use our blower before starting the engine (like most of us do!). The blower exhaust goes out of 4 exit holes on the outside of the transom above the outdrive. The holes are about 3" in diameter with louvre type shutters, only they are fixed rather than open/closing. When we have been in serious chop, we think the holes allow seawater to get into the blower hoses and into the engine compartment, which then begins to flood with seawater and the alarm goes off and the bilge pump has to go to work. (Gas mileage really goes south when you haul part of the ocean with you...). When we zoom around on flat water there is no problem. Anyway, we of course are very concerned about this and wondering where most seaworthy boats have their blower exhausts exiting the engine compartment. We are thinking of installing some type of removeable caps that would cover these holes when the blower is not in use. Have you ever come across this situation and do you have any other suggestions we can try?
Thanks in advance!
SeaSparrow

[FreetoFish]

We have a 175 Sportjet in a 80'Motion Marine and it has not started well since we have had it. We thought the problem was in the water seperator filter. Changed it and it started a few times. We found air in the hose between the electric fuel pump and the engine mechanical pump. Could it be on of the fuel pumps? :shrug: :shrug:
Harold Cooper e-mail haroldcooperprim@comcast.net

[Wildgoose]

I have 97 115 Merc 2 stroke with very low hrs(4-5 gal mix oil,max)new batt,new plugs,good gas,hard bulb,always fired right off.Recently began having cold start problems.Can hear choke relay working.Turn key and engine turns once,hesitates then turns normal but won't fire.After some time and lots of revs it kicks off like normal as if never was a problem.The hesitation part is suspect.Starter?Voltage?(jump direct or measure volt drop while cranking?) Compression release? I'm stumped

[FreetoFish]

175 Sportjet
We did discouver the other day when it would start after being on anchor for 3hrs there was air in the gas line.
The line between the primer pump and the vacuum pump on the engine. loosened clamp on hose, air released from whithin hose, tightened clamp- motor started fine.
Thanks in advance!! :shrug: :shrug:

[8-guage]

Hi Boat Doc.
I appear to have a leak in my power trim. I fill it with fluid and then about3-5 uses later, it stops lifting so I add more then it works fine again. Is there an additive or a way to fix the problem other than "replace the unit"?
1989 O/B 85hp Force on Bayliner boat(unsure of the make of the Trim unit)
Thank you,
Michael

[bighugetrout]

Boat Doc--you're the best. Thanks for past help. Question: I have '98 Merc 65 Jet and wondered if I would benefit from a stainless impeller. I currently have the stock aluminum. I know that the stainless would require less maintenance(sharpening impeller blades) than the aluminum but wondered if I would benefit anywhere else(speed, power). The stainless is quite expensive and would not make sense for me if I didn't gain anything. Thanks.

[goodkarma]

BoatDoc,
I have a 93 yamaha 200 outboard jet. Normally, this motor runs great, no problems. Last trip out, I'm running wide open (5400 rpm) and suddenly the RPM's drop exactly 400rpms without any warning. I back off on the throttle slightly, power back up and everything is fine. I chalked it up to maybe sucking something into the jet. However, after maybe 1 minute of running, same thing happens again....and again, etc.
Symptoms: always drops exactly 400 rpms (I have the digital tach). I only have to back off slightly then it will power right back up to full rpms. It doesn't matter what speed I'm running at, so even at 5000 rpms, it drops exactly 400.
Doesn't show any symptoms at lower rmps, maybe around 3K?
does not correct itself if I leave it without backing off.
clearly runs much longer without the problem after sitting for a little while. Does not hesitate at all prior to the problem, the drop is immediate without any sputtering, like something is shutting off.
I haven't tried replacing anything, I figured a new set of plugs and filters would be good anyway but the fact that it runs fine after backing off leads me to believe it's something else. Thoughts?

[Intruder]

:lurk: This is great!! I guess this is the reason I just spent my life savings on a new Intruder ( loaded of coarse )
I bought it at stevens marine and couldn't be happier, By the way boat doc, you know my boat, the 2005 yellow intruder. Thanks for all your help. :dance:

[Boat Doc']

Seasparrow, sorry for the delay- been on vacation. Most boats either vent out the top of the transom or out the side at the rear. The problem with a valve is that air pressure may not force it open making the blower useless. I wouldlook at mounting the vents higher or in a different location

[Boat Doc']

Sorry for the delay, was on vacation. If it starts hard when cold and runs well after it starts I would suspect the electric fuel pump. You might try the fuel pump mods discussed in previous forums. If it starts hard cold and runs poorly then it probably needs carb work and possible electric fuel pump problem. If the motor stays running at all speeds then the mechanical pump is fine. Air in the line between the pumps is not abnormal.