Stevens Marine Boat Doc'

[Boat Doc']

Hey Doc, I recently replaced the tilt/trim motor in my boat. Everything had been working fine until the last time I took it out. Started noticing fluid spraying when tilting the engine up. Got it home thinking/hoping it was just one of the lines. Low n behold it was comming from between the peice where the engage/disingage knob and all the lines are and the top peice. 1st thought was gasket but upone dissambly I found there was just a metal plate there. Below the plate on the peice where the knob and the lines are there are 4 O-rings. One of the O-rings (closest to the front) is oval and is broken. 95% sure this is where my leak was occuring. Question is can I just replace this O-ring? I tried picking one up from the hardware store but being it fits in an oblong slot it will not stay in place...any ideas?

You should replace all 4 o-rings and use genuine parts to make sure they are sized correctly. If you just replace one it will probably cause the others to start leaking because they are partially collapsed

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc
I have twin 135 opt max.Both motors tilted up fine for the road trip home.And now the starboard motor will not go up or dpwn.
Where should Istart looking?
Thanks Bruce

Check wire connections coming from the motor, if they are clean and intact then listen to the relays. If you hear the relays click both directions and it doesn't run then the motor is bad. If the relays don't click then it could be a relay, switch or wiring issue.

[One Eyed Jack]

Check wire connections coming from the motor, if they are clean and intact then listen to the relays. If you hear the relays click both directions and it doesn't run then the motor is bad. If the relays don't click then it could be a relay, switch or wiring issue.

Thanks Doc
Just pulled the motor to find broken magnet

[Lockjaw]

Boat Doc, I have an 05 Yamaha T 9.9 that will not pee untill the thermostat opens. For the last year it would pee a little at first but now not at all untill it opens.
Pee hole is not plugged, i changed the water pump last year when it started to pee slow. This did'nt seem to help.

[Redhawk]

Hey Boat Doc, you've helped me before but I have a chronic but intermittant problem with Ford 302 in a 21 year old Alumaweld (bought by me new from y'all). When the problem happens the ignition key is turned to start and the starter/engine just goes CLUNK! After 1,2,3 attempts the engine then turns over slightly, then more then starts, runs rough for 20 seconds or so then runs fine. This will happen 1 in 20, 2 in a row, or 1 in 10. It has never not started. This has been frustrating and scarry, depending on where you are, for about 15 years.

Things I have done: new battery, new starter, new solenoid, new ignition switch, rebuilt distributor on theory of sticky mechanical spark advance, checked for water intrusion from cracked exhaust water jacket -- internal checked good with no cracks, all battery cables have no corrosion -- got any ideas? Thanks

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc, I have an 05 Yamaha T 9.9 that will not pee untill the thermostat opens. For the last year it would pee a little at first but now not at all untill it opens.
Pee hole is not plugged, i changed the water pump last year when it started to pee slow. This did'nt seem to help.

If it peed before and not now then there has to be a bypass passage in the block or thermostat that is plugged. As long as it isn't overheating which it doesn't sound like it is you don't have to do anything

[Boat Doc']

Hey Boat Doc, you've helped me before but I have a chronic but intermittant problem with Ford 302 in a 21 year old Alumaweld (bought by me new from y'all). When the problem happens the ignition key is turned to start and the starter/engine just goes CLUNK! After 1,2,3 attempts the engine then turns over slightly, then more then starts, runs rough for 20 seconds or so then runs fine. This will happen 1 in 20, 2 in a row, or 1 in 10. It has never not started. This has been frustrating and scarry, depending on where you are, for about 15 years.

Things I have done: new battery, new starter, new solenoid, new ignition switch, rebuilt distributor on theory of sticky mechanical spark advance, checked for water intrusion from cracked exhaust water jacket -- internal checked good with no cracks, all battery cables have no corrosion -- got any ideas? Thanks

I would guess you have the timing extemely advanced or are getting water in the cylinders, it cranks slow till the water gets out, runs rough till the water gets off the plugs then runs fine till you shut it off. Causes could be dieseling on shut down caused by idling to fast, running hot, wrong plugs, timing incorrect etc. If it doesn't diesel remove the risers and look for signs of water intrusion either from the gasket, riser itself being corroded thru or the exhaust manifold corroded thru or cracked. You should get this addressed before you cause serious internal damage.

[Redhawk]

Boat Doc, the engine shuts down with no dieseling, doesn't run hot, no evidence of water intrusion, or corrosion in intakes or cylinders, new plugs are Autolite Platinum APP24 gapped at .040 (book calls for BRF-3 or ARF-32, ARF-32=Autolite 24) ,old plugs look the same for all cylinders, timed correctly after rebuilding distributor (6 degrees advance per book), engine runs great except for when it goes CLUNK on start. Problem has occurred intermittantly for past 15 years so not in any hurry to prevent damage.
I have scratched my head for years trying to correct this to no avail. Surely, someone out there has had a similar problem?

Other ideas?

thanks, lyle (aka Redhawk)

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc, the engine shuts down with no dieseling, doesn't run hot, no evidence of water intrusion, or corrosion in intakes or cylinders, new plugs are Autolite Platinum APP24 gapped at .040 (book calls for BRF-3 or ARF-32, ARF-32=Autolite 24) ,old plugs look the same for all cylinders, timed correctly after rebuilding distributor (6 degrees advance per book), engine runs great except for when it goes CLUNK on start. Problem has occurred intermittantly for past 15 years so not in any hurry to prevent damage.
I have scratched my head for years trying to correct this to no avail. Surely, someone out there has had a similar problem?

Other ideas?

thanks, lyle (aka Redhawk)
When the starter is engaged two things are supposed to happen, first it throws the starter drive into the flywheel (clunk) as it activates a contact to crank the engine. Could it be normal?

[Redhawk]

I wasn't descriptive enough. When it goes "CLUNK" the motor doesn't turn over. When you activate the switch again, it will do the same thing, but on subsequent key turns it will go CLUNK then turn the engine slightly. With another key turn it will turn it slightly more, and with another key turn it will start cranking the engine which will then start, run rough for 20 seconds or so then run fine. Last monday, while fishing the N Fork, this happened 3 times out of 12 or so starts.

Thanks for your continued help, this problem has plagued me for over 10 years and I want to get it corrected before I get in trouble on a river.

lyle

[Boat Doc']

I wasn't descriptive enough. When it goes "CLUNK" the motor doesn't turn over. When you activate the switch again, it will do the same thing, but on subsequent key turns it will go CLUNK then turn the engine slightly. With another key turn it will turn it slightly more, and with another key turn it will start cranking the engine which will then start, run rough for 20 seconds or so then run fine. Last monday, while fishing the N Fork, this happened 3 times out of 12 or so starts.

Thanks for your continued help, this problem has plagued me for over 10 years and I want to get it corrected before I get in trouble on a river.

lyle
Next time it happens pull the spark plugs and see if there is water in the cylinders

[FrogPond]

Merc 15 Long shaft 2 stroke

I broke the shifter linkage as shown below. I broke it while trying to start the motor for a flush after running it in the bay. The throttle was being stubborn about shifting and I over-finessed it a bit.

http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/linkage.jpg

I tried to identify the serial number and motor information from the metalic sticker on the port side on the shaft...the sticker looks like it has been through hell and back and is not legible.

3 questions:
1) Is there any other place on the motor where I can find the serial number or other identification marks?
2) Can I order the part from you (Stephens) and put it on. It just pops onto and off of the ball joints (I got it off just with little effort), or should I take it in to get the once over (rough estimate $$?)
3) Is the broken linkage typically a sign of other issues?

Thanks Doc!

[lingcodmaster]

i just bought a 2005 8hp mercury 2 stroke and i took it out for the first day and when i got home i noticed i have a black oil coming out the prop and down the skag. It is really black. I changed the lower unit oil and in doing so i had water in the lower unit oil. Since i changed it the other day i am still getting dripping oil but its solid black and not the color of new lower unit oil. I havnt ran it since i changed the lower unit oil to see if i get more water in the lower unit. What do i need to do to get that oil from dripping or is it normal for that black oil to be dripping out? any help is appreciated.thanks
brandon kind

[Boat Doc']

Merc 15 Long shaft 2 stroke

I broke the shifter linkage as shown below. I broke it while trying to start the motor for a flush after running it in the bay. The throttle was being stubborn about shifting and I over-finessed it a bit.

http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/linkage.jpg

I tried to identify the serial number and motor information from the metalic sticker on the port side on the shaft...the sticker looks like it has been through hell and back and is not legible.

3 questions:
1) Is there any other place on the motor where I can find the serial number or other identification marks?
2) Can I order the part from you (Stephens) and put it on. It just pops onto and off of the ball joints (I got it off just with little effort), or should I take it in to get the once over (rough estimate $$?)
3) Is the broken linkage typically a sign of other issues?

Thanks Doc!

Don't need the ser #. There is two bushings under the carb that are supported by the block casting. Those bushing have either swelled up or have salt deposits on the making them stiff and causing the link rod to break. The bushings need to be removed and cleaned or sanded as necessary so they move free. For us to fix it would be around 150.00

[Boat Doc']

i just bought a 2005 8hp mercury 2 stroke and i took it out for the first day and when i got home i noticed i have a black oil coming out the prop and down the skag. It is really black. I changed the lower unit oil and in doing so i had water in the lower unit oil. Since i changed it the other day i am still getting dripping oil but its solid black and not the color of new lower unit oil. I havnt ran it since i changed the lower unit oil to see if i get more water in the lower unit. What do i need to do to get that oil from dripping or is it normal for that black oil to be dripping out? any help is appreciated.thanks
brandon kind

You are seeing unburn't oil that builds up in the mid section then runs out the prop when shut off. Extended trolling and cold water also contribute to the issue. This is normal. You can eliminate most of it by running it hard for about 10 minutes before you shut it down

[lingcodmaster]

thanks alot.

[fishchaser]

Hello Boat Doc. I have a 1995 40HP Force 2 stroke. (made by Mercury Marine). I have compression problems. I have 75% compression on the lower cylinder and I'm good on the top cylinder. I also have fluid forming on the pistons. Is this a head gaskets issue or something else. How much would it cost to fix it?

[Boat Doc']

Hello Boat Doc. I have a 1995 40HP Force 2 stroke. (made by Mercury Marine). I have compression problems. I have 75% compression on the lower cylinder and I'm good on the top cylinder. I also have fluid forming on the pistons. Is this a head gaskets issue or something else. How much would it cost to fix it?

iIf the compression varies by more than 15% I would pull the head and see what is damaged

[kingfishn]

Boat Doc
I have a 2004 Sportjet 175 in a 19' intruder. This is my first jet. Everything is runnig good (no buzzers or bells).
My questions - How can I tell if the oil is being injected at the correct rate? I marked the oil level in the remote tank but it doesnt seem to be drawing down much.

How many gallons of gas should I be going thru for a full oil tank?

Thanks
kingfishn

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc
I have a 2004 Sportjet 175 in a 19' intruder. This is my first jet. Everything is runnig good (no buzzers or bells).
My questions - How can I tell if the oil is being injected at the correct rate? I marked the oil level in the remote tank but it doesnt seem to be drawing down much.

How many gallons of gas should I be going thru for a full oil tank?

Thanks
kingfishn

Should see about 144-250 gallons fuel per 3 gallons of oil depending on throttle settings. You could also do a flow test. Hook up a fuel supply mixed at 50-1. Remove the output hose and cap the fitting. Run it at 1500 rpm. you should see 6.8cc plus or minus 10% in 3 minutes

[charlie h]

How much of a job is it to change out a timing belt on a Yamaha T-8 ?

Thanks

[Boat Doc']

How much of a job is it to change out a timing belt on a Yamaha T-8 ?

Thanks

Should be easy, remove the covers and flywheel and put in a new one

[honker1]

Boat Doc.....I purchased a Mercury Service Manual to get my '09 Mercury 4-stroke 8hp ready for fishing this year. Drained the motor oil which was easy to follow in the manual, but when I was reinstalling the plug, it didn't say to use a new seal washer, neither did it tell me the torque on the plug. Seemed strange that the Mercury Service Manual wouldn't have a torque setting for this plug. Could please tell me what the experts set the torque on this plug at. :pray:

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc.....I purchased a Mercury Service Manual to get my '09 Mercury 4-stroke 8hp ready for fishing this year. Drained the motor oil which was easy to follow in the manual, but when I was reinstalling the plug, it didn't say to use a new seal washer, neither did it tell me the torque on the plug. Seemed strange that the Mercury Service Manual wouldn't have a torque setting for this plug. Could please tell me what the experts set the torque on this plug at. :pray:

They tell you to lube the gasket and torque the plug to 17.7 ft lbs

[honker1]

They tell you to lube the gasket and torque the plug to 17.7 ft lbs

Thanks...Got it registered in my service manual http://www.ifish.net/board/images/icons/icon14.gif

[marthagofish]

Hey Boat Doc,
What range should the compression be within for the following 2 outboards:

#1) 2000 merc
75 hp
4 stroke
MDL ELPT)
#2) 2005 merc
8 hp
4 stroke
MDL F8ML?

Thanks!

[Boat Doc']

Hey Boat Doc,
What range should the compression be within for the following 2 outboards:

#1) 2000 merc
75 hp
4 stroke
MDL ELPT)
#2) 2005 merc
8 hp
4 stroke
MDL F8ML?

Thanks!

180-200 and around 100 on the troller. Masin thing is they are equal. You should also do a leak down test if the numbers are low or vary by 15% or more

[baguba]

Looking for advice - I acquired my uncles 2006 Custom Weld Viper II last summer and I love the boat. It had a whopping 24 hours on it when i got it and he took it in every year for maintenance. It has the 350 engine and the American Turbine 312 with SDR. The only complaint I have is slow speed operation - i can't seem to keep it in straight line. It does not pull to one direction or the other, it just does not want to stay straight.

Any helpful hints. One mechanic suggested adding a rudder to the bottom of the jet but American and Custom weld frown on the idea for obvious shallow water concerns.

[charlie h]

Need to find out if the flywheel crankshaft nut is left hand or right hand thread on a Yamaha T-8 .

[surfnfish]

I've got a sweet little 16' x 7' Piranha sled that I use almost exclusively down in tidewater, repowered last year with a 2009 40hp Mercury four stroke prop drive from Stevens Marine.

I was looking for info/opinions on picking up a jet pump, so I could have the option of running upriver as well. So questions are:

As the hull weighs around #750, would the 40hp be too small to work effectively with a pump? right now, with a power prop, it's on plane very quickly and at 60% throttle is running close to 30 mph.

How hard is swapping back and forth between a prop drive and jet pump?

What could I expect to pay for a pump?

[marthagofish]

180-200 and around 100 on the troller. Masin thing is they are equal. You should also do a leak down test if the numbers are low or vary by 15% or more

So if the compression numbers are 200 & 170 or 180 & 153, there could be a problem?

What is a leak down test?

[Boat Doc']

Looking for advice - I acquired my uncles 2006 Custom Weld Viper II last summer and I love the boat. It had a whopping 24 hours on it when i got it and he took it in every year for maintenance. It has the 350 engine and the American Turbine 312 with SDR. The only complaint I have is slow speed operation - i can't seem to keep it in straight line. It does not pull to one direction or the other, it just does not want to stay straight.

Any helpful hints. One mechanic suggested adding a rudder to the bottom of the jet but American and Custom weld frown on the idea for obvious shallow water concerns.

Its been my experience there is nothing you can do, lots of boats do it

[Boat Doc']

Need to find out if the flywheel crankshaft nut is left hand or right hand thread on a Yamaha T-8 .

Rt hand

[Boat Doc']

I've got a sweet little 16' x 7' Piranha sled that I use almost exclusively down in tidewater, repowered last year with a 2009 40hp Mercury four stroke prop drive from Stevens Marine.

I was looking for info/opinions on picking up a jet pump, so I could have the option of running upriver as well. So questions are:

As the hull weighs around #750, would the 40hp be too small to work effectively with a pump? right now, with a power prop, it's on plane very quickly and at 60% throttle is running close to 30 mph.

How hard is swapping back and forth between a prop drive and jet pump?

What could I expect to pay for a pump?

I would guess it would work good with no more than 2 people. Price would be close to 2K plus install. Keep in mind the engine has to go up 7 inches for the jet. Swapping back and forth isn't that hard, most difficult part would be changing the height

[upland hunter]

boat doc, i just bought an old johnson 9 horse kicker off cr. it starts runs smooth but won't shift into gear. did i buy a lemon? help!!!

[wayout]

Boat Doc, I have a fuel injected Chevy 350 and a T9 4cycle kicker running off the same 70 gallon gas tank in my Customweld jet. Both engines about 9 years old. I want to add some fuel cleaner, like STP Complete Fuel system to the gas to help clean carb and injectors. Do you see any problem with that? Is there a different fuel cleaner you'd recommend? I'd need a lot of it to get the mix right for a full tank, but could approximate based on roughly how much gas remains in the tank, though I don't really trust the needle gage. Would it be an issue if I got the mix wrong by 10 or 20%??

[Cork]

Hey BD, I purchased a '77 boat that has been sitting for about 5-7 years. It has a 85el77s Johnson. After lubing the cylinders and replaceing the plugs with OEM it pretty much fired right off. Ran a can of Johnson "Tune Up" through it as well per instructions. It basically starts and runs ok, but had an occasional stutter at higher rpm's. Then when I took er out the other day, running just under top rpm for about two minutes, it seemed to drop 2 or three holes. Just barlely keeped running. Left the throttle where it was to nurse back to dock and it occasionally would cut back in for a sec. After about 5 minutes heading back it jumped back to normal. Sucking air (still have the original fuel plugs and squeeze ball) or electrical? Where would I start?
Appreciate any help. ( I do have mechanical background, just not in boat motors:doh:
__________________
Was that a bite?:doh:

[marthagofish]

When ordering new spark plug wires for a 75hp merc 4 stroke (year 2000).

What numbers do I need to know to get the correct replacement spark plug wires and plugs?

Are there any other item's that should be changed at the same time as the wires and plugs? (Like you might change a distributor cap in a car....etc...

Thank you so much for you knowledge.
MGF

[Boat Doc']

boat doc, i just bought an old johnson 9 horse kicker off cr. it starts runs smooth but won't shift into gear. did i buy a lemon? help!!!

Pull the prop and see if it has a shear pin. If not then look at the linkage and see if it moves with the lever.

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc, I have a fuel injected Chevy 350 and a T9 4cycle kicker running off the same 70 gallon gas tank in my Customweld jet. Both engines about 9 years old. I want to add some fuel cleaner, like STP Complete Fuel system to the gas to help clean carb and injectors. Do you see any problem with that? Is there a different fuel cleaner you'd recommend? I'd need a lot of it to get the mix right for a full tank, but could approximate based on roughly how much gas remains in the tank, though I don't really trust the needle gage. Would it be an issue if I got the mix wrong by 10 or 20%??

Use anything that doesn't contain alcohol. Even if you double up on it it won't hurt anything

[Boat Doc']

Hey BD, I purchased a '77 boat that has been sitting for about 5-7 years. It has a 85el77s Johnson. After lubing the cylinders and replaceing the plugs with OEM it pretty much fired right off. Ran a can of Johnson "Tune Up" through it as well per instructions. It basically starts and runs ok, but had an occasional stutter at higher rpm's. Then when I took er out the other day, running just under top rpm for about two minutes, it seemed to drop 2 or three holes. Just barlely keeped running. Left the throttle where it was to nurse back to dock and it occasionally would cut back in for a sec. After about 5 minutes heading back it jumped back to normal. Sucking air (still have the original fuel plugs and squeeze ball) or electrical? Where would I start?
Appreciate any help. ( I do have mechanical background, just not in boat motors:doh:
__________________
Was that a bite?:doh:

Check compression and spark. Sounds like you are dropping spark to one or more cylinders. If it checks out ok take a fuel sample. This should get you pointed in the right direction

[Boat Doc']

When ordering new spark plug wires for a 75hp merc 4 stroke (year 2000).

What numbers do I need to know to get the correct replacement spark plug wires and plugs?

Are there any other item's that should be changed at the same time as the wires and plugs? (Like you might change a distributor cap in a car....etc...

Thank you so much for you knowledge.
MGF

Need the engine serial number. Other items would be fuel filter, gear oil and engine oil changes. Plug wires normally don't go bad

[Johnny Utah]

Boat Doc, I have 2 questions.

1. Do you have a size and pitch prop recommendation for a 92 alumaweld super v pro with a 200 merc and a bay kit extension? I am getting a lot of cavitation with the standard aluminum 3 blade prop. I figured that a lot of these boats have the same problem since the disance from the top of the transom to the bottom of the boat would be the same on all of the 92 super v pros manufactured.

2. I feel like I don't have the power I need when the pump is on the super v. With 4 people and some gear I can barely get on plane on the Deschutes. the motor has been checked and compression is fine. I think the impellor might be worn down and there is too much gap between the impellor and the sleeve. Should I get it blueprinted or get a new impellor? What is the cost and performance difference between new impellor and blueprinting.

[Robalo Bill]

Boat Doc....how critical is a poppet valve on a 150 Merc OG005704? Do these things need service or replacing? I understand they kick in after 1500rpm but it doesn't look like it assists in cooling, looks like a water dump for exhaust muffling. Still working on my overheating issue and found the thermostats in horrible condition. Even though the engine gets a fresh water flush, there are limitations to how effective this has been without saltaway. I'll be pulling hoses and backflushing the whole engine to pushout any debris leftover from 15 years of use. I'll do this after I drop the lower unit....interested in what comes out. I pulled the port cylinder head and the pistons look pristeen, no scaring. Compression is 100lbs on all cylinders, I know it should be higher but I think it's the cheap gauge I'm using. I'll try another gauge and see if it improves. I do not see a reason to pull the starboard head. So I guess my question is change the poppet valve or not an issue.

Thanks Much
Bill

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc, I have 2 questions.

1. Do you have a size and pitch prop recommendation for a 92 alumaweld super v pro with a 200 merc and a bay kit extension? I am getting a lot of cavitation with the standard aluminum 3 blade prop. I figured that a lot of these boats have the same problem since the disance from the top of the transom to the bottom of the boat would be the same on all of the 92 super v pros manufactured.

2. I feel like I don't have the power I need when the pump is on the super v. With 4 people and some gear I can barely get on plane on the Deschutes. the motor has been checked and compression is fine. I think the impellor might be worn down and there is too much gap between the impellor and the sleeve. Should I get it blueprinted or get a new impellor? What is the cost and performance difference between new impellor and blueprinting.

I would recommend a stainless Mirage in 19 pitch. On the pump blueprinting and sharpening and shimming are most important. Also upgrading to the power pump will be a big change in performance if you don't already have it

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc....how critical is a poppet valve on a 150 Merc OG005704? Do these things need service or replacing? I understand they kick in after 1500rpm but it doesn't look like it assists in cooling, looks like a water dump for exhaust muffling. Still working on my overheating issue and found the thermostats in horrible condition. Even though the engine gets a fresh water flush, there are limitations to how effective this has been without saltaway. I'll be pulling hoses and backflushing the whole engine to pushout any debris leftover from 15 years of use. I'll do this after I drop the lower unit....interested in what comes out. I pulled the port cylinder head and the pistons look pristeen, no scaring. Compression is 100lbs on all cylinders, I know it should be higher but I think it's the cheap gauge I'm using. I'll try another gauge and see if it improves. I do not see a reason to pull the starboard head. So I guess my question is change the poppet valve or not an issue.

Thanks Much
Bill

If the poppet valve moves freely and the diaphragm isn't torn there is no reason to change it

[tobmaniac]

I just received a 1968 Johnson FD-22E outboard motor from an estate. It's been in the basement of my Grandfather-in-Law's house for the past 30 or so years and looks like it's been used maybe 3 times. I need to know if this is a 2-stroke or 4 stroke motor and if it's a 2-stroke, what the appropriate fuel to oil mix ratio is. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Tobmaniac

[Sunnygx]

Hey doc
I am bought a 16' sled with at 1980 3cyl 90hp merc jet outboard. The compression is good. But the boat has been sitting for 3+ years without being winterized. I plan on emptying the fuel tank cleaning it, replacing fuel lines, cleaning the carb(s) and installing a water/fuel separator filter. What else should I check before taking it out on the water to test? Any preventive maintenance I should do now? Any other things I should consider?

[Pete]

Boat Doc',
I have a 2009 9.9 4 stroke Merc Big Foot (manual). It's got about 10 hours on it. The first 10 hours seemed fine. But now, it seems starved for gas. It starts easily, but hunts while the choke is on and never gets up to full song. If I press the primer bulb after it first starts, it revs up and runs smoothly for 3 seconds. If I give it any throttle, it dies completely. I've checked the fuel lines and they are all full and free with no kinks. The fuel is plumbed to the main fuel filter. Maybe I've answered my own question ... next step, replace the main fuel filter/separator and reseat the fuel line? Thoughts?

Also, the linkage from the carb to the choke plunger keeps falling apart. How do I fix that to keep them from coming apart?

[Boat Doc']

I just received a 1968 Johnson FD-22E outboard motor from an estate. It's been in the basement of my Grandfather-in-Law's house for the past 30 or so years and looks like it's been used maybe 3 times. I need to know if this is a 2-stroke or 4 stroke motor and if it's a 2-stroke, what the appropriate fuel to oil mix ratio is. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Tobmaniac

Its a 2 stroke mixed at 50-1

[Boat Doc']

Hey doc
I am bought a 16' sled with at 1980 3cyl 90hp merc jet outboard. The compression is good. But the boat has been sitting for 3+ years without being winterized. I plan on emptying the fuel tank cleaning it, replacing fuel lines, cleaning the carb(s) and installing a water/fuel separator filter. What else should I check before taking it out on the water to test? Any preventive maintenance I should do now? Any other things I should consider?

Only other thing would be to pull the hose off the bottom of the oil reservoir and make sure there is no water in it.

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc',
I have a 2009 9.9 4 stroke Merc Big Foot (manual). It's got about 10 hours on it. The first 10 hours seemed fine. But now, it seems starved for gas. It starts easily, but hunts while the choke is on and never gets up to full song. If I press the primer bulb after it first starts, it revs up and runs smoothly for 3 seconds. If I give it any throttle, it dies completely. I've checked the fuel lines and they are all full and free with no kinks. The fuel is plumbed to the main fuel filter. Maybe I've answered my own question ... next step, replace the main fuel filter/separator and reseat the fuel line? Thoughts?

Also, the linkage from the carb to the choke plunger keeps falling apart. How do I fix that to keep them from coming apart?

The air mixture screw needs adjusted or if that doesn't work the carb needs to be taken apart and cleaned. May need to replace a part on the linkage. If you bring it by we can get it done quickly

[marthagofish]

Electrical help,
I was working on the power toggle switche for the nav / anchor lights and had them working but I forgot to pull the fuse before disconnecting one of the other switch wires and caused a spark between one of the wires and the boat hull/frame. I no longer have power upfront at the switches. I checked the fuses located above the switchs and they are still good...? Would there happen to be another inline fuse somewhere between the battery and the switch panel that I'm not seeing?

2000 Alumaweld Intruder (16ft) with 75hp 4-stroke mercury outboard.
There are Steven's Marine Stickers on the trailer, boat and motor.

Where should I check?

Thanks, Mark

[E4usmc0651]

I have a 17' smokercraft osprey and just sold my 06 50hp merc that was on her. I found an 06 115 four stroke used in my price range but it is a 25" shaft while my transom is for a 20" shaft. I have been told that the transom can be built up or I could get a jack plate. Thoughts????

Next question...Newer motor higher hours and warranty or older motor lower hours no warranty...Is there a lesser of two evils....

I know just buy new it as only about 2.5k-3k more...that would be fine with me if I did not sleep next to the most frugal person anyone has ever met in their life.

[Boat Doc']

Electrical help,
I was working on the power toggle switche for the nav / anchor lights and had them working but I forgot to pull the fuse before disconnecting one of the other switch wires and caused a spark between one of the wires and the boat hull/frame. I no longer have power upfront at the switches. I checked the fuses located above the switchs and they are still good...? Would there happen to be another inline fuse somewhere between the battery and the switch panel that I'm not seeing?

2000 Alumaweld Intruder (16ft) with 75hp 4-stroke mercury outboard.
There are Steven's Marine Stickers on the trailer, boat and motor.

Where should I check?

Thanks, Mark

Start with fuses at the battery, if they are ok look at connections at the battery and also instrument harness plug in for corrosion

[Boat Doc']

I have a 17' smokercraft osprey and just sold my 06 50hp merc that was on her. I found an 06 115 four stroke used in my price range but it is a 25" shaft while my transom is for a 20" shaft. I have been told that the transom can be built up or I could get a jack plate. Thoughts????

Next question...Newer motor higher hours and warranty or older motor lower hours no warranty...Is there a lesser of two evils....

I know just buy new it as only about 2.5k-3k more...that would be fine with me if I did not sleep next to the most frugal person anyone has ever met in their life.

I would be concerned about the weight, especially if you have a kicker. Adding a jack plate will set the engine back which will make the weight issue worse. Building up the transom is a option but would not look right. I would suggest holding out for a motor of the correct shaft length. Four strokes in general are very reliable, if the hours are relatively low I wouldn't be afraid of older and no warranty. If possible stay with EFI, less fuel related issues.

[E4usmc0651]

I would be concerned about the weight, especially if you have a kicker. Adding a jack plate will set the engine back which will make the weight issue worse. Building up the transom is a option but would not look right. I would suggest holding out for a motor of the correct shaft length. Four strokes in general are very reliable, if the hours are relatively low I wouldn't be afraid of older and no warranty. If possible stay with EFI, less fuel related issues.

At how many hours would you walk away from a 03 yamaha 115 EFI obviously w/ no warranty?

[Boat Doc']

At how many hours would you walk away from a 03 yamaha 115 EFI obviously w/ no warranty?

Approx 500. Would base my decision more on how it looks under the cowl. If its beat up and has lots of corrosion I wouldn't touch it regardless of hours

[marthagofish]

Originally Posted by marthagofish
Electrical help,
I was working on the power toggle switche for the nav / anchor lights and had them working but I forgot to pull the fuse before disconnecting one of the other switch wires and caused a spark between one of the wires and the boat hull/frame. I no longer have power upfront at the switches. I checked the fuses located above the switchs and they are still good...? Would there happen to be another inline fuse somewhere between the battery and the switch panel that I'm not seeing?
2000 Alumaweld Intruder (16ft) with 75hp 4-stroke mercury outboard.
There are Steven's Marine Stickers on the trailer, boat and motor.
Where should I check?
Thanks, Mark

Start with fuses at the battery, if they are ok look at connections at the battery and also instrument harness plug in for corrosion

New Question:

Hey Boat Doc,
I found out that the in line fuse that goes from the switch panel back to the battery is corroded pretty bad and is no longer usable. I am not able to remove the fuse and can not see what amp or size fuse it used to be. It’s feeding juice to the helm switch / fuse panel which has the following fuses and switches: 10 amp (Bildge), 10 amp (Lights), 5 or 6 amp (?), 10 amp & 20 amp.

What amp / size fuse should be used in line from the battery?
Where would I find one with the round end connector that attaches over the threaded battery post? Thanks, Mark

[FishyBuckSlayer]

Dear Boat Doc,
Boat: 2004 NR Trapper 21 foot
Motor: 350 Marine V8 EFI
Pump: H212

Problem: Fuel Pump noisy and engine stalls after 30s to 1m on trailer post fuel filter replacement. Pump running longer than normal and noisy enough to be hear over the engine. Also can hear what sounds like a sucking sound when key is turned off after motor has been started. (sounds like it is coming from within the fuel system)

Event Sequence History:
1) Replaced fuel filter and o-ring. 10um paper filter inside grey canister attached to engine. greased o-ring lightly to prevent future sticking. Cleaned any and all particulate out of the canister.
NOTE: also replaced oil, oil filter, and coolant.
NOTE: Engine has run perfectly for years and ran perfectly just a few weeks ago.
2) Forgot to prime filter to 2/3 with fuel as noted in manual.
3) Turned on key 3x activating fuel pump for about 30 seconds total and heard it not pressurize normally. (did not attempt to start engine)
4) Realized I forgot to pime the filter.
5) Removed fuel filter canister. Found about 2 ounces of fuel in bottom otherwise dry canister and filter.
6) Filled filter canister nearly full with fuel.
7) Backed boat (on trailer) down to river.
8) Turned key on until pump stopped, off 10sec, on until pump stopped, off 10sec (several times)
NOTE: fuel pump noisier than normal
9) Started engine with fresh water cooling system cap off to ensure I kept it full as coolant level dropped.
10) engine began to stutter and stalled after about 30sec - 1min. Heard sucking sound (suspected in fuel system) as soon as engine stopped.
11) Restarted engine several times (10+) hoping to blow air out of fuel system and get the fuel pump to prime normally. Each time the engine idled only 30-60 secs, stuttered and stalled. Each time heard sucking sound (suspected in fuel system) as soon as engine stopped.
NOTE: The fuel pump (attached to the fuel filter canister) became increasingly noisy with each attempt to start the engine.

[Boat Doc']

Originally Posted by marthagofish
Electrical help,
I was working on the power toggle switche for the nav / anchor lights and had them working but I forgot to pull the fuse before disconnecting one of the other switch wires and caused a spark between one of the wires and the boat hull/frame. I no longer have power upfront at the switches. I checked the fuses located above the switchs and they are still good...? Would there happen to be another inline fuse somewhere between the battery and the switch panel that I'm not seeing?
2000 Alumaweld Intruder (16ft) with 75hp 4-stroke mercury outboard.
There are Steven's Marine Stickers on the trailer, boat and motor.
Where should I check?
Thanks, Mark



New Question:

Hey Boat Doc,
I found out that the in line fuse that goes from the switch panel back to the battery is corroded pretty bad and is no longer usable. I am not able to remove the fuse and can not see what amp or size fuse it used to be. It’s feeding juice to the helm switch / fuse panel which has the following fuses and switches: 10 amp (Bildge), 10 amp (Lights), 5 or 6 amp (?), 10 amp & 20 amp.

What amp / size fuse should be used in line from the battery?
Where would I find one with the round end connector that attaches over the threaded battery post? Thanks, Mark

I would use a 25 amp fuse. We have fuses and connecters or a auto parts store could help also

[Boat Doc']

Dear Boat Doc,
Boat: 2004 NR Trapper 21 foot
Motor: 350 Marine V8 EFI
Pump: H212

Problem: Fuel Pump noisy and engine stalls after 30s to 1m on trailer post fuel filter replacement. Pump running longer than normal and noisy enough to be hear over the engine. Also can hear what sounds like a sucking sound when key is turned off after motor has been started. (sounds like it is coming from within the fuel system)

Event Sequence History:
1) Replaced fuel filter and o-ring. 10um paper filter inside grey canister attached to engine. greased o-ring lightly to prevent future sticking. Cleaned any and all particulate out of the canister.
NOTE: also replaced oil, oil filter, and coolant.
NOTE: Engine has run perfectly for years and ran perfectly just a few weeks ago.
2) Forgot to prime filter to 2/3 with fuel as noted in manual.
3) Turned on key 3x activating fuel pump for about 30 seconds total and heard it not pressurize normally. (did not attempt to start engine)
4) Realized I forgot to pime the filter.
5) Removed fuel filter canister. Found about 2 ounces of fuel in bottom otherwise dry canister and filter.
6) Filled filter canister nearly full with fuel.
7) Backed boat (on trailer) down to river.
8) Turned key on until pump stopped, off 10sec, on until pump stopped, off 10sec (several times)
NOTE: fuel pump noisier than normal
9) Started engine with fresh water cooling system cap off to ensure I kept it full as coolant level dropped.
10) engine began to stutter and stalled after about 30sec - 1min. Heard sucking sound (suspected in fuel system) as soon as engine stopped.
11) Restarted engine several times (10+) hoping to blow air out of fuel system and get the fuel pump to prime normally. Each time the engine idled only 30-60 secs, stuttered and stalled. Each time heard sucking sound (suspected in fuel system) as soon as engine stopped.
NOTE: The fuel pump (attached to the fuel filter canister) became increasingly noisy with each attempt to start the engine.

First try a different fuel source, if you still have issues it may be the low pressure fuel pump. The sucking noise while running could be the idle air control valve which is normal. If it makes noise after shutdown possible source would be the anti siphon valve located at the fuel pick up. I would guess the pump burnt up from a lack of fuel

[FishyBuckSlayer]

Thank you greatly for your response. Forgive me for a naive question...
Where is the low pressure fuel pump? Is it in the tank?
I am assuming the high pressure pump is the one connected to the filter canister. Is that correct?

[Boat Doc']

Thank you greatly for your response. Forgive me for a naive question...
Where is the low pressure fuel pump? Is it in the tank?
I am assuming the high pressure pump is the one connected to the filter canister. Is that correct?

The fuel line from the fuel filter should attach to the low pressure pump. The high prtessure pump is in the housing that the other pumps fuel line attaches to.

[marthagofish]

I would use a 25 amp fuse. We have fuses and connecters or a auto parts store could help also

Would you use a 25 amp fuse with a 10 gauge supply wire?

[benchm]

Hey boat doc having a problem with my tacometer . It worked off and on then quit alltogether. The tac works off the alternator right ?? The alternator is working it keeps the battries charged , the fish finder sayes the voltage goes up when the motor is running . I replaced the tac still no work . what am I missing??? I have a 96 175 merc EFI . Any ideas ??
Thanks Again
Ted Meeker

[fishorgolf]

Hey Boat Doc looking for advice and bet you,re the right place to start. Father-in-laws boat ( bet you have never heard that before ) Went out last week in his alumi-starcraft older boat whitch he keeps ALL his things clean and in good working order. He runs 1989 mercurys 25 and 8 with merc cable control box for the main motor. Both sound like sewing machines they purr purfectly, the problem is with the main motor running in higher RPMs on plane. The motor will want to kick or shift into neutral and does. the cable control handel doesent change but the RPMs will max and prop will eather free spin or stop spinning intell you lower RPMs . I think there is a ajustment needed but his fixed income makes me want to pull covers and take a look myself. Shifting into R will make a sound like grinding before R is in-gaged. Thanks for you help and advance Grant

[Boat Doc']

Hey boat doc having a problem with my tacometer . It worked off and on then quit alltogether. The tac works off the alternator right ?? The alternator is working it keeps the battries charged , the fish finder sayes the voltage goes up when the motor is running . I replaced the tac still no work . what am I missing??? I have a 96 175 merc EFI . Any ideas ??
Thanks Again
Ted Meeker

Probably the tach circuit of the regulater. Some motors have 2 regulators, you can swap the gray wire between the two. If it just has one you may need to replace the regulator

[Boat Doc']

Hey Boat Doc looking for advice and bet you,re the right place to start. Father-in-laws boat ( bet you have never heard that before ) Went out last week in his alumi-starcraft older boat whitch he keeps ALL his things clean and in good working order. He runs 1989 mercurys 25 and 8 with merc cable control box for the main motor. Both sound like sewing machines they purr purfectly, the problem is with the main motor running in higher RPMs on plane. The motor will want to kick or shift into neutral and does. the cable control handel doesent change but the RPMs will max and prop will eather free spin or stop spinning intell you lower RPMs . I think there is a ajustment needed but his fixed income makes me want to pull covers and take a look myself. Shifting into R will make a sound like grinding before R is in-gaged. Thanks for you help and advance Grant

If the gear oil is clean try a different prop. Sounds like you are spinning a hub or the motor isn't down all the way

[ATao]

hey boat doc i have a 2002 customweld viper with a 4.3v6 and an american turbine sd 309 i took my boat out the other day and it ran great but the next time i ran it i had no power and a bad vibration i checked to make sure there is nothing in the impeller and all of the seals are tight also i ran a hose to it in my drive way and it runs and sounds great do you have any ideas of what would cause the vibration and loss of power if there was nothing in the impeller?
thanks andrew

[Boat Doc']

hey boat doc i have a 2002 customweld viper with a 4.3v6 and an american turbine sd 309 i took my boat out the other day and it ran great but the next time i ran it i had no power and a bad vibration i checked to make sure there is nothing in the impeller and all of the seals are tight also i ran a hose to it in my drive way and it runs and sounds great do you have any ideas of what would cause the vibration and loss of power if there was nothing in the impeller?
thanks andrew

It would have to be something on the impeller or possibly covering part of the intake. Try it again, whatever it was may have fallen off. Also look closely for any twigs, leaves etc on the impeller

[ATao]

okay i tryed it once and it did the same thing but i will take it out one more time is there anything else it could be?

[dubnvento]

I have an 18hp Envinrude Fastwin 1967. It's old, but has always been a good runner until recently. I know you guys don't work on these but I think this question pertains to most outboards. I replaced the fuel pump as it was having issues cutting out at full throttle. It would die and I couldn't get it started again for awhile. After replacing the fuel pump, the motor starts up but I can't increase the throttle at all or it will die, it's also smoking more than usual. The primer bulb from the engine to the gas tank goes flat so that makes me think something is wrong there but I'm not sure what.

[Boat Doc']

okay i tryed it once and it did the same thing but i will take it out one more time is there anything else it could be?

May be losing fuel pressure- running out of fuel at top end

[Boat Doc']

I have an 18hp Envinrude Fastwin 1967. It's old, but has always been a good runner until recently. I know you guys don't work on these but I think this question pertains to most outboards. I replaced the fuel pump as it was having issues cutting out at full throttle. It would die and I couldn't get it started again for awhile. After replacing the fuel pump, the motor starts up but I can't increase the throttle at all or it will die, it's also smoking more than usual. The primer bulb from the engine to the gas tank goes flat so that makes me think something is wrong there but I'm not sure what.


If the bulb is physically flat there is a restriction between the bulb and fuel source. May have a plugged vent or vent that isn't open

[dubnvento]

If the bulb is physically flat there is a restriction between the bulb and fuel source. May have a plugged vent or vent that isn't open

Thanks, boat doc but that isn't the problem because I have a 8 horse Johnson kicker that I use the same fuel line too and nothing is wrong with the kicker. I simply remove the fuel connector from the motor and switch it to the big motor when I need too. The primer bulb on the kicker when in use isn't flat. When I switch to the big motor it does go flat, almost like it's losing fuel? I did replace the fuel lines and I'm not sure if they are losing fuel there? Thoughts?

[ATao]

It would have to be something on the impeller or possibly covering part of the intake. Try it again, whatever it was may have fallen off. Also look closely for any twigs, leaves etc on the impeller
could the loss of power be caused by the u joints if so would it be so bad i cant get on plane?

[Boat Doc']

Thanks, boat doc but that isn't the problem because I have a 8 horse Johnson kicker that I use the same fuel line too and nothing is wrong with the kicker. I simply remove the fuel connector from the motor and switch it to the big motor when I need too. The primer bulb on the kicker when in use isn't flat. When I switch to the big motor it does go flat, almost like it's losing fuel? I did replace the fuel lines and I'm not sure if they are losing fuel there? Thoughts?


If the bulb is physically flat it has to be a restriction, maybe the check valves in the bulb

[Boat Doc']

could the loss of power be caused by the u joints if so would it be so bad i cant get on plane?

No, there again vibration and power loss would be a symptom of something on the impeller or something in the intake. This assumes that the engine doesn't have any mechanical issues

[marthagofish]

Hey boat doc,
Do know how the '2000' Alumaweld 16ft Intruder internal fuel tank is vented, if it is at all?
I just started wondering.....

What is the difference between the two Steven's Marine locations as far as service and parts is concerned?
Is one location better at some things over the other?
What's the deal?
Once again I was just wondering....

Thanks for all the great advice....

[Pete]

The air mixture screw needs adjusted or if that doesn't work the carb needs to be taken apart and cleaned. May need to replace a part on the linkage. If you bring it by we can get it done quickly

Follow-up: The primary problem seems to have been fuel. I tore the carb apart and cleaned the jet, but that didn't make much difference. However, when I replaced the water separating filter on my fuel system, it all seemed happy again. Even with Stabil, my gas seems to have gotten icky.

[Boat Doc']

Hey boat doc,
Do know how the '2000' Alumaweld 16ft Intruder internal fuel tank is vented, if it is at all?
I just started wondering.....

What is the difference between the two Steven's Marine locations as far as service and parts is concerned?
Is one location better at some things over the other?
What's the deal?
Once again I was just wondering....

Thanks for all the great advice....

Built in tanks are all vented. All fab work is done at the Tigard location otherwise we both offer the same services

[marthagofish]

Built in tanks are all vented. All fab work is done at the Tigard location otherwise we both offer the same services

How and where are the internal fuel tanks vented on alumaweld intruder?

[Boat Doc']

How and where are the internal fuel tanks vented on alumaweld intruder?

Vented at the rear and possibly the front and the hose connects to the fuel fill. In other words the fill is also the vent

[Maddie'sDaddy]

Hi Doc


I seem to have a slight squeal to my outboard at low RPMs when under load and it sounds like belt squeal, It goes away with higher RPMs, My motor is a 08 60hp Merc 4stroke, Normal?



MD

[Boat Doc']

Hi Doc


I seem to have a slight squeal to my outboard at low RPMs when under load and it sounds like belt squeal, It goes away with higher RPMs, My motor is a 08 60hp Merc 4stroke, Normal?
MD

They all seem to have some harmonic noise at low speed that is normal. Can't say if yours is normal without listening to it

[niceshot]

Doc I wanted to check for leaking rivets or worse in a 18'Lund. Is it safe to remove the drain plug and fill it with a garden hose and check it this way? Last year it seemed like the bilge pump sure kicked on a lot.

Thanks

[Boat Doc']

Doc I wanted to check for leaking rivets or worse in a 18'Lund. Is it safe to remove the drain plug and fill it with a garden hose and check it this way? Last year it seemed like the bilge pump sure kicked on a lot.

Thanks

Yes, support the trailer so you don't flatten the springs or tires

[blackdog]

Boat Doc-

I have an older 7.5 horse Honda 4stroke (maybe mid to late 80's) that really hasn't seen much use in the past couple years. I had ran the gas out of it the last time I ran it (or at least tried) and when I took it out last weekend, after pumping some gas in it, it started right up. But after many, many tries, I could never get it to idle down and warm up enough to actually shift into gear. I was always having to run it at high RPM's and with the choke partially on.

Any suggestions on a do-it-myself tune up (or where to find instructions on a thorough carb cleaning?) or am I better off just bringing it into the shop? What would an very general ballpark estimate be on a shop tune up?

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc-

I have an older 7.5 horse Honda 4stroke (maybe mid to late 80's) that really hasn't seen much use in the past couple years. I had ran the gas out of it the last time I ran it (or at least tried) and when I took it out last weekend, after pumping some gas in it, it started right up. But after many, many tries, I could never get it to idle down and warm up enough to actually shift into gear. I was always having to run it at high RPM's and with the choke partially on.

Any suggestions on a do-it-myself tune up (or where to find instructions on a thorough carb cleaning?) or am I better off just bringing it into the shop? What would an very general ballpark estimate be on a shop tune up?

It will need the carb gone thru, easy to do yourself, just remove it and thoroughly disassemble and clean it.. Expect a shop to charge around 150. We do not service Honda

[Buck]

Boat Doc: I have a 1987 Suzuki DT85 with a pump. The last time out, the motor sounded funny and each time I hit full throttle, it lost power back to about 1/3 power. Any suggestions on what this may be?

[Tilla]

DOC
It's a 8hp 4 st just a couple years old, the good about this motor was low trolling speed. Lo and behold the first day springer season it won't troll.
It starts and runs with the choke on, it runs high RPMs either with choke on or off.
But when I have the choke on at idle and just start to push it in, it starves and dies.
Is this a primer bulb issue?
Does pushing in the choke do something other than rotate the butterfly valve?
Lousy timing for this to happen of course.

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc: I have a 1987 Suzuki DT85 with a pump. The last time out, the motor sounded funny and each time I hit full throttle, it lost power back to about 1/3 power. Any suggestions on what this may be?

Most common thing would be the reverse bucket comiung up under power and blocking off the exhaust. Check to make sure its down solid in forward gear and adjust if necessary. If thats ok then you are looking at carbs or ignition

[Boat Doc']

DOC
It's a 8hp 4 st just a couple years old, the good about this motor was low trolling speed. Lo and behold the first day springer season it won't troll.
It starts and runs with the choke on, it runs high RPMs either with choke on or off.
But when I have the choke on at idle and just start to push it in, it starves and dies.
Is this a primer bulb issue?
Does pushing in the choke do something other than rotate the butterfly valve?
Lousy timing for this to happen of course.

Need to take the carb apart and thoroughly clean it.

[Tilla]

Need to take the carb apart and thoroughly clean it.


Funny, thats what the guy on Addie st said this AM!:D

Well that's 2 for 2 with the Doc for me.

Thanks a bunch, running fine!

[comefishy]

Boat Doc,
I have a 2003 Mercury 9.9 4-stroke that is showing some water in the lower unit lube. I'm wondering how critical this is and how I can figure out where it is getting in. Any suggestions?
Thanks.

[marthagofish]

Hey Boat Doctor,
I picked up my 16' Intruder from the Tigard Steven's Marine store this past Saturday and forgot to ask how the choke works. 75hp 4-stroke merc 2000. (Full Tune up) The manual doesn't mention how to use the choke function but the throttle control says to push in the key.

What's the deal?
Is there a choke option and what is the correct way to use it?

Thanks...... Mark W

[iwanttofish]

Which way should a 1996 mercury 9.9 be transported, A buddy is bringing his motor over and wants to know if the handle side is up or down.

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc,
I have a 2003 Mercury 9.9 4-stroke that is showing some water in the lower unit lube. I'm wondering how critical this is and how I can figure out where it is getting in. Any suggestions?
Thanks.

Most common ways it gets in is from fish line around the prop shaft and missing or damaged washers from the vent/fill plugs. I would suggest removing the prop, remove any fish line and change the oil with new washers. If you are still getting water in it then it has to be one of the seals. If its just milky its ok but needs changed, if it turns to water then you need to find the cause and fix it immediately

[Boat Doc']

Hey Boat Doctor,
I picked up my 16' Intruder from the Tigard Steven's Marine store this past Saturday and forgot to ask how the choke works. 75hp 4-stroke merc 2000. (Full Tune up) The manual doesn't mention how to use the choke function but the throttle control says to push in the key.

What's the deal?
Is there a choke option and what is the correct way to use it?

Thanks...... Mark W

There is no choke on a four stroke, just turn the key till it runs

[Boat Doc']

Which way should a 1996 mercury 9.9 be transported, A buddy is bringing his motor over and wants to know if the handle side is up or down.

Handle side down

[iwanttofish]

Handle side down

Thanks that is what mine says but his was older so I thought I would check.:applause:

[comefishy]

Most common ways it gets in is from fish line around the prop shaft and missing or damaged washers from the vent/fill plugs. I would suggest removing the prop, remove any fish line and change the oil with new washers. If you are still getting water in it then it has to be one of the seals. If its just milky its ok but needs changed, if it turns to water then you need to find the cause and fix it immediately

Thanks. That sounds like great advice. I'll have a look in the prop area for any fishing line.

[ripthevolcano]

Boat Doc,

I have done the most stupid and unthinkable thing in my do-it-yourself career. Late last night after putting all of my electronics, gear, batteries, ect in my boat to get it ready for the season, I managed to hook the battery cables on my Yamaha T-8 backwards. I tried to start it and use the power tilt and nothing works. I noticed my own stupidity and re-attached the cables correctly and checked the fuse, which was blown. I replaced the fuss and I still have nothing works. What do you think I have done? What should I check next? A humble inquiry...:palm:

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc,

I have done the most stupid and unthinkable thing in my do-it-yourself career. Late last night after putting all of my electronics, gear, batteries, ect in my boat to get it ready for the season, I managed to hook the battery cables on my Yamaha T-8 backwards. I tried to start it and use the power tilt and nothing works. I noticed my own stupidity and re-attached the cables correctly and checked the fuse, which was blown. I replaced the fuss and I still have nothing works. What do you think I have done? What should I check next? A humble inquiry...:palm:

Maybe another fuse?. Make sure both cables are hooked up to the battery then check for voltage at the cable connections at the motor and work your way to the switches. I would guess it's something simple.

[kelso]

Doc, I have a 2009 8 hp yamaha pull start. Is it possible to convert it to electric start. If it is, than roughly how much would it cost?

kelso (dave)

[ripthevolcano]

You're right! It was simple...bad battery connection. Just need a little daylight. Crazy how one gets in a hurry to beat the darkness. TY again Boat Doc.

[Boat Doc']

Doc, I have a 2009 8 hp yamaha pull start. Is it possible to convert it to electric start. If it is, than roughly how much would it cost?

kelso (dave)

Apparently thet don't make a kit, it wouild have to be pieced together every screw and component. If thats the case they guessed around 600 for parts

[newbergfishjunkie]

Boat Doc, I'm in the market for new 15-20 hp motor for my 14' Gregor. My motor service person says go two stroke. Just wondered what your opinion is. Also I think I'm going with electric start. What make and model do you suggest?

[seaduck]

Also Boat Doc' in your educated opinion what would be the upper limits on horsepower that I could get away with on a motor for my 18 foot Jetcraft. I now have a 90 Yamaha, I want more power and go to a Merc. Thank you, W D Clark

[Orion]

Boat Doc,

I have a 2003 Honda 9.9, 4 stroke outborad. The motor starts right up and runs fine, then quits. Shift back in to neutral and it starts right back up. Troll along for a while, and it quits. Shift back in to neutral, hit the starter it fires right up. It does not sputter prior to quiting. It will go for 20 minutes and quit. Or it might go for an hour and then quit. Other than that, the motor runs just fine. New fuel filter. Plugs look good. What should I be looking for in the way of a fix?

Thanks,

Orion

[mgreen]

year of outboard motor? is the year made located in the serial # or the model # ? older Sea King outboard thats in very good shape

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc, I'm in the market for new 15-20 hp motor for my 14' Gregor. My motor service person says go two stroke. Just wondered what your opinion is. Also I think I'm going with electric start. What make and model do you suggest?

If youre looking at new you have no choice but 4 stroke. You would have to go back about 6-8 years used to find a 2 stroke. Make sure you look at weight as part of your consideraion of 4 strokes. The 20-25 can get heavy for your application

[Boat Doc']

Also Boat Doc' in your educated opinion what would be the upper limits on horsepower that I could get away with on a motor for my 18 foot Jetcraft. I now have a 90 Yamaha, I want more power and go to a Merc. Thank you, W D Clark

I would look at the highest power based on what the boat is rated for. Ideally 150/105 jet Optimax if its rated for it.

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc,

I have a 2003 Honda 9.9, 4 stroke outborad. The motor starts right up and runs fine, then quits. Shift back in to neutral and it starts right back up. Troll along for a while, and it quits. Shift back in to neutral, hit the starter it fires right up. It does not sputter prior to quiting. It will go for 20 minutes and quit. Or it might go for an hour and then quit. Other than that, the motor runs just fine. New fuel filter. Plugs look good. What should I be looking for in the way of a fix?

Thanks,

Orion

Tough one, try running the choke part way out, if it runs better then the carb needs adjusted or cleaned. If no difference change the plugs. If it still has problems then it may have a weak charge coil or bad stop switch, you could try unplugging them

[Boat Doc']

year of outboard motor? is the year made located in the serial # or the model # ? older Sea King outboard thats in very good shape

Model# has hp and year, you could do a web search on sea king model year to figure it out

[Red Dawg]

Boat Doc,
I run a '07 21' Seahawk w/ yamaha 150. Two weekends age my speedo stuck at 30 mph. I have checked the outside of the motor and do not see anything unsual. Not being a gear head, and new to boating, I have little knowledge of these motors. I have looked at the intakes and they appear clear, but I do not know which intake is for the speedometer. I also have a speed wheel mounted next to the transponder that displays on the GPS. That seems fine and unrelated to my issue. Any help is greatly appreatiated.

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc,
I run a '07 21' Seahawk w/ yamaha 150. Two weekends age my speedo stuck at 30 mph. I have checked the outside of the motor and do not see anything unsual. Not being a gear head, and new to boating, I have little knowledge of these motors. I have looked at the intakes and they appear clear, but I do not know which intake is for the speedometer. I also have a speed wheel mounted next to the transponder that displays on the GPS. That seems fine and unrelated to my issue. Any help is greatly appreatiated.

Speedo pickup is normally on the front of the gearcase. It will be a small hole just above the round part. Its very common to get a twig or other debris that plugs it up. Be very careful if you use a drill to remove it that you don't drill into the oil reservoir

[Red Dawg]

THANKS, I will check a lot closer when i get home. If debris gets in the intake how is it flushed out?

[rangerroy]

is there anything i can do to make my yamaha T50TLRZ start easier after it sets for a week it starts hard i pump the ball and it fires and i pump the ball again and then it starts and runs rough for 20 seconds and then smoothes out and its ok for the weekend until it sets for a week

[Boat Doc']

THANKS, I will check a lot closer when i get home. If debris gets in the intake how is it flushed out?

Debris in the speedo stays there until you remove both ends and blow it out.

[Boat Doc']

is there anything i can do to make my yamaha T50TLRZ start easier after it sets for a week it starts hard i pump the ball and it fires and i pump the ball again and then it starts and runs rough for 20 seconds and then smoothes out and its ok for the weekend until it sets for a week

If it has always done it I would say its normal. They have an enrichener that works when the engine is running, after about 20 seconds it shuts off.

[Buck]

Dear Boat Doc: My mid-80's Merc 115 dies when I throttle up after shifting to reverse. What could this be? Thanks

[Orion]

Tough one, try running the choke part way out, if it runs better then the carb needs adjusted or cleaned. If no difference change the plugs. If it still has problems then it may have a weak charge coil or bad stop switch, you could try unplugging them
Thanks Doc. I will begin the process of elimination! Orion

[Boat Doc']

Dear Boat Doc: My mid-80's Merc 115 dies when I throttle up after shifting to reverse. What could this be? Thanks

If it dies on acceleration the idle mixture is to lean. If it's a 4 cylinder the accelerater pumps may not be working or the throttle linkage may not be set up correctly. If all the above is ok and compression is ok then the carbs may need to be gone thru

[adiposessed]

Boat doc...Do you have any experience with the Optimax Pro XS with a jet pump? It looks like it would be a comparable motor to the Yamaha Vmax. It would be on a 20' 5 degree sled. Any opinions on how it would perform vs a regular Opti?

[Boat Doc']

Boat doc...Do you have any experience with the Optimax Pro XS with a jet pump? It looks like it would be a comparable motor to the Yamaha Vmax. It would be on a 20' 5 degree sled. Any opinions on how it would perform vs a regular Opti?

They work well, It will have a little more bottom end power than a regular one.

[FishyBuckSlayer]

First try a different fuel source, if you still have issues it may be the low pressure fuel pump. The sucking noise while running could be the idle air control valve which is normal. If it makes noise after shutdown possible source would be the anti siphon valve located at the fuel pick up. I would guess the pump burnt up from a lack of fuel

Pumps were fine. Some idiot (uhummmm) hooked the low pressure pump wires up backward and reversed the polarity. Called North River and they cause me to remember screwing with the wires. Used a mirror to check +/-. Found them backward. Set them correct and all is well.

Thank you for your help.

[Fishalot]

What would be the first thing to check if I am not getting spark at the plugs. It seams that both plugs fouling at one time would be unlikely.
The second question, if the motor is over heating and the water pump is in good shape, what else might it be.

[Boat Doc']

What would be the first thing to check if I am not getting spark at the plugs. It seams that both plugs fouling at one time would be unlikely.
The second question, if the motor is over heating and the water pump is in good shape, what else might it be.

You don't say what motor you have but most common- lanyard switch, ignition switch, coil, stator and switch box

[Fishalot]

Sorry, it is a Johnson-1989- 15 hp I think, Silver Gray lower and Blue cowling. What do I need to do to determine if the lanyard switch is bad. And if that is not it how can I narrow it down.


Fishalot

[Boat Doc']

Sorry, it is a Johnson-1989- 15 hp I think, Silver Gray lower and Blue cowling. What do I need to do to determine if the lanyard switch is bad. And if that is not it how can I narrow it down.


Fishalot

Unplug it and check for spark, if you still don't have it your going to need a manual for continuity or voltage checks

[wiser]

I have a 2002 merc 115 Four-Stroke EFI that doesn't seem to be charging the battery (new optima deep cycle). Is there an online source to view schematics or troubleshooting steps to take? I've never worked on an outboard engine but have mechanical experience (currently 1 year into a two year apprentice program to become journeyman diesel mechanic).
My limited knowledge would point me towards a bad rectifier since motor starts and runs fine (until battery is too low to turn over engine).

[baitslinger]

Hello Doc,

I have a 2003 yami 15 hp four stroke; peeing little if any water. Went from doing fine to almost nothing in a single trip so I assume must be a blockage of some sort. How should I proceed to diagnose/ fix?

Thanks for any advice!

[Boat Doc']

I have a 2002 merc 115 Four-Stroke EFI that doesn't seem to be charging the battery (new optima deep cycle). Is there an online source to view schematics or troubleshooting steps to take? I've never worked on an outboard engine but have mechanical experience (currently 1 year into a two year apprentice program to become journeyman diesel mechanic).
My limited knowledge would point me towards a bad rectifier since motor starts and runs fine (until battery is too low to turn over engine).
Somewhere on the web there should be a manual, I don't know where to point you. If fuses are ok I would agree with the regulater possibly being bad

[Phil Layer]

Boat Doc,

I'm shopping for a spare prop for my Mercruiser Alpha 1 outdrive. I've found one and the seller says it "fits Mercury outboards." My outdrive uses a 15 spline, thru hull exhaust. His prop is a 15 spline, thru hull exhaust.

Is it safe to assume the prop will fit my outdrive?

Thanks again for your help.

[Boat Doc']

Hello Doc,

I have a 2003 yami 15 hp four stroke; peeing little if any water. Went from doing fine to almost nothing in a single trip so I assume must be a blockage of some sort. How should I proceed to diagnose/ fix?

Thanks for any advice!

Normally the hose or fitting the water comes out of gets plugged. If it is blowing air out of the pee hole the water pump needs inspected.

[wiser]

Somewhere on the web there should be a manual, I don't know where to point you. If fuses are ok I would agree with the regulater possibly being bad
Fuses are ok (30 amp fuse in charging system and additional 3 fuses in box) and all wiring looks tight with no corrosion. Do you have any tips on testing for a rectifier problem?

[Gunnar]

Boat Doc,

I have a 1995 225 merc efi with a 30" shaft. I'm looking at upgrading to a 2000 merc 250 efi, but is has a 20" shaft. I need the 30". Is it possible to make the 225 into a 20" and the 250 into the 30" by swaping parts?

Thank you,

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc,

I'm shopping for a spare prop for my Mercruiser Alpha 1 outdrive. I've found one and the seller says it "fits Mercury outboards." My outdrive uses a 15 spline, thru hull exhaust. His prop is a 15 spline, thru hull exhaust.

Is it safe to assume the prop will fit my outdrive?

Thanks again for your help.

It will work if it came off a V-6 outboard. Anything smaller it will not

[Boat Doc']

Fuses are ok (30 amp fuse in charging system and additional 3 fuses in box) and all wiring looks tight with no corrosion. Do you have any tips on testing for a rectifier problem?

You are checking diodes. Regulater unplugged, red meter lead to red then check green leads looking for 1-300 ohms. Move red meter lead to black and recheck, should be no continuity. Its ok if these tests are backwards

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc,

I have a 1995 225 merc efi with a 30" shaft. I'm looking at upgrading to a 2000 merc 250 efi, but is has a 20" shaft. I need the 30". Is it possible to make the 225 into a 20" and the 250 into the 30" by swaping parts?

Thank you,

Possibly, would need ser #s to verify compatibility

[wiser]

Thanks Boat Doc, I can handle those tests.

[wiser]

You are checking diodes. Regulater unplugged, red meter lead to red then check green leads looking for 1-300 ohms. Move red meter lead to black and recheck, should be no continuity. Its ok if these tests are backwards
Red and black are there but the other three wires coming from the regulator/rectifier are white so I guess I'll use them.

[wiser]

You are checking diodes. Regulater unplugged, red meter lead to red then check green leads looking for 1-300 ohms. Move red meter lead to black and recheck, should be no continuity. Its ok if these tests are backwards
No continuity at all. Just reads "OL" no matter which terminals are read together.

[wiser]

Replaced regulator/rectifier and fished all day. Trolled (8hp Merc w/o charging capacity) downhill a couple miles then run back with main motor to start over. Battery never went below 12 volts when trolling on kicker (combo of lights, lowrance 104cfinder, gps, mapping, navigation). Repeated this process from 6:30 AM until 5:00PM. When running on main motor the lowrance showed a charge between 14.4 volts down to 12.4volts.
Seems like I found my problem.

[marthagofish]

What is the correct way to stow a 75hp 4-stroke Mercury with power tilt for towing.

Do you tip it all the way up and use the tilt lock bracket or mid way up-down or do you use a transom support like the wedge?

Do you turn it one direction or the other?
When I picked it up from your shop it was turned towards the boat drivers consol side (curb side in the street).

Thanks Boat Doc!

[Boat Doc']

What is the correct way to stow a 75hp 4-stroke Mercury with power tilt for towing.

Do you tip it all the way up and use the tilt lock bracket or mid way up-down or do you use a transom support like the wedge?

Do you turn it one direction or the other?
When I picked it up from your shop it was turned towards the boat drivers consol side (curb side in the street).

Thanks Boat Doc!

Ideally use a transom saver and turn it either direction. Second choice is to support it with a block or use the trailer lock.

[marthagofish]

Ideally use a transom saver and turn it either direction. Second choice is to support it with a block or use the trailer lock.

Where would one pick one up that would fit my boat/motor pkg?

[fish-r-on]

Boat Doc

i have a 2005 merc 4 stroke and it starts fine but while going up on plane it misses and takes a while to get on plane once it's there it runs great. Changed the fuel filter didn't make any difference. I need an Idea.

[theslayer]

Have a 1991 200 merc, motor starts and idles just fine but when on plane dies, just started doing this yesterday. There had been no previous signs such as missing while on plane! Was thinking maybe fuel pump, but really haven't a clue. Thanks!

[Boat Doc']

Where would one pick one up that would fit my boat/motor pkg?

Any dealer has them or can get them

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc

i have a 2005 merc 4 stroke and it starts fine but while going up on plane it misses and takes a while to get on plane once it's there it runs great. Changed the fuel filter didn't make any difference. I need an Idea.

If compression and spark are ok try changing plugs. If it still has issues its probably the carb if it has one

[Boat Doc']

Have a 1991 200 merc, motor starts and idles just fine but when on plane dies, just started doing this yesterday. There had been no previous signs such as missing while on plane! Was thinking maybe fuel pump, but really haven't a clue. Thanks!

If it takes off when squeezing the bulb then it is fuel pump or line related.

[fish-r-on]

If compression and spark are ok try changing plugs. If it still has issues its probably the carb if it has one

Sorry I forgot to tell you it's en EFI engine. could it be the fuel pump and how do I check. Thanks.

[doryboy22]

I have a 1998 25HP Mercury 2 Stroke LS that has weak(dribbling out) to moderate water flow from the peehole, and the water is also very hot when exiting.

I replaced the waterpump and impeller but still have the same water flow and temperature. There is nothing blocking the water intake or the exit tube, is there another place a blockage could occur ?? Or could it be the thermostat?

Any suggestions as to what might be causing this?
Thanks

[Boat Doc']

Sorry I forgot to tell you it's en EFI engine. could it be the fuel pump and how do I check. Thanks.

Spark, compression then plugs. Probably not a fuel pump since it runs good at high speed. If you still have the problem after changing plugs you probably need to see a dealer

[Boat Doc']

I have a 1998 25HP Mercury 2 Stroke LS that has weak(dribbling out) to moderate water flow from the peehole, and the water is also very hot when exiting.

I replaced the waterpump and impeller but still have the same water flow and temperature. There is nothing blocking the water intake or the exit tube, is there another place a blockage could occur ?? Or could it be the thermostat?

Any suggestions as to what might be causing this?
Thanks

Remove the thermostat, if it pees good the the pee hole works with the thermostat. If it stays the same then you need to find and remove the blockage

[foxer]

Boat Doc. When I bought my 18' NR Scout the dealer upgraded the trailer for free because they had sold the one that it came with. The upgraded trailer is a single axle Rogue that I believe was actually built for a 20ft boat. Anyhow, I noticed the GVWR shows 4,000 on the plate with GAWR being 3,750. The weight of the boat, motors and gas is around 1900 lbs. I believe the trailer weight is around 1k which leaves me just over 1k lbs in excess capacity. I have noticed that the trailer rides a bit rough, even after airing down the tires to 50lbs. This cant be good for the boat. The trailer has torsion axles so my question is how difficult / expensive would it be to downgrade the axles? The boat/trailer etc is financed so I think it be a pain to sell the trailer and buy a different one. The model # shows to be RS20-66-28. Thanks

[RKjk]

We tryed this once and I didn't respond in the correct format. So here we go again. We will try to answer all maintenance or mechanical related questions within a day or two excluding weekends and holidays.
I have a 2000 yamaha 9.9 high trust i used all springer season worked
fine check oil today full of water and oil sill runs help!

[RKjk]

We tryed this once and I didn't respond in the correct format. So here we go again. We will try to answer all maintenance or mechanical related questions within a day or two excluding weekends and holidays.
Boat doc my bad it's not water but gas in oil pull dip stick and it run out
the motor ran fine last weekend just got boat home checking over it did not act like it was flooding idled fine all day

[Mo Money]

Boat Doc,
I have a trophy with an 88 omc cobra I/0 closed cooling 5.0 gm style.It runs with muffs on at 175 but in the water started to overheat.i have changed the impellar on the outdrive and the engine thermostat but still have same problem.Boat has less than 200 hrs but has been sitting and is new to me so dont know much else.I pulled risers they are clear and blew through hoses and heat exchanger and it is clear.Exhaust flappers were MIA so i pulled outdrive and collected the pieces and ex. bellows was shot so i replace that.It seems to me there is a small leak causing impellar to loose prime or be inefficient.How do I find it??Flappers probably failed due to heat not sure about bellows.Would any of these cause the problem.I dont want to put outdrive on till i figure something out.Maybe check pickup tube in outdrive?are there other hoses,seals inside.Help Im up against a wall!!

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc. When I bought my 18' NR Scout the dealer upgraded the trailer for free because they had sold the one that it came with. The upgraded trailer is a single axle Rogue that I believe was actually built for a 20ft boat. Anyhow, I noticed the GVWR shows 4,000 on the plate with GAWR being 3,750. The weight of the boat, motors and gas is around 1900 lbs. I believe the trailer weight is around 1k which leaves me just over 1k lbs in excess capacity. I have noticed that the trailer rides a bit rough, even after airing down the tires to 50lbs. This cant be good for the boat. The trailer has torsion axles so my question is how difficult / expensive would it be to downgrade the axles? The boat/trailer etc is financed so I think it be a pain to sell the trailer and buy a different one. The model # shows to be RS20-66-28. Thanks

They don't offer a smaller axle for that frame size, but you can change the location of the spindle assys to give it a softer ride. What you need to do is lessen the clearance between the fender and the tire being careful that the tire doesn't rub on the fender when under way.

[Boat Doc']

Boat doc my bad it's not water but gas in oil pull dip stick and it run out
the motor ran fine last weekend just got boat home checking over it did not act like it was flooding idled fine all day

Change the oil and make sure it's coming up to temperature. If it still makes oil quickly the fuel pump may need replaced.

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc,
I have a trophy with an 88 omc cobra I/0 closed cooling 5.0 gm style.It runs with muffs on at 175 but in the water started to overheat.i have changed the impellar on the outdrive and the engine thermostat but still have same problem.Boat has less than 200 hrs but has been sitting and is new to me so dont know much else.I pulled risers they are clear and blew through hoses and heat exchanger and it is clear.Exhaust flappers were MIA so i pulled outdrive and collected the pieces and ex. bellows was shot so i replace that.It seems to me there is a small leak causing impellar to loose prime or be inefficient.How do I find it??Flappers probably failed due to heat not sure about bellows.Would any of these cause the problem.I dont want to put outdrive on till i figure something out.Maybe check pickup tube in outdrive?are there other hoses,seals inside.Help Im up against a wall!!

If the coolant level isn't going down and the heat exchanger isn't plugged and the risers aren't plugged start with the seawater pump and hoses from the outdrive looking for broken or kinked gaskets or hoses. Look closely at the thermostat and passages for damage or restrictions. Finally with the engine running hot pull the riser hoses off momentarily to see if the temperature drops. If it does there is a restriction in that manifold or riser. Don't overlook the simple stuff, chances are thats where the problem is.

[warlo527]

99 Sportjet 175. Just noticed one of the bellows is torn. Outside of the transom. Is this something that should be replaced immediately or can I replace at the end of the season? I think the cables are sealed but not sure. Thanks Doc

[Boat Doc']

99 Sportjet 175. Just noticed one of the bellows is torn. Outside of the transom. Is this something that should be replaced immediately or can I replace at the end of the season? I think the cables are sealed but not sure. Thanks Doc

The cables are not sealed. Bellows can be changed at any time. The life of the cable has been shortened but it will slowly get stiff before seizing totally. Replacing the bellows now probably will not make it last any longer

[tsorrels]

have a 06 20 hp honda twice today backtrolling motor dies pull few times nothing then pull choke starts also notice a slight very slight hesitation when i throttle little bit any advice thank you and good fishing :cool:

[Boat Doc']

have a 06 20 hp honda twice today backtrolling motor dies pull few times nothing then pull choke starts also notice a slight very slight hesitation when i throttle little bit any advice thank you and good fishing :cool:

Try adjusting the idle mixture screw, you may have to remove a access plug to get to it. If it still does it you will need to remove and thoroughly clean the carb

[DTSportsman]

Boat Doc,

What do you think about the early '80's mercs? I'm looking for a quality older kicker for my drift boat, and most are in the '82-'85 range. Here are a couple from c-list.

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/boa/1729217712.html

http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/boa/1729156240.html

Thanks,
Daryn

[007SPRIG]

I have a 1994 80hp Johnson jet drive. The VRO unit was replaced less than 2 years ago. It is leaking oil just a tiny bit. Is that acceptable? Thanks.

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc,

What do you think about the early '80's mercs? I'm looking for a quality older kicker for my drift boat, and most are in the '82-'85 range. Here are a couple from c-list.

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/boa/1729217712.html

http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/boa/1729156240.html

Thanks,
Daryn

Great motors, they can have issues with alcohol affecting the rubber water pump impeller. But no big deal, replace it as necessary

[Boat Doc']

I have a 1994 80hp Johnson jet drive. The VRO unit was replaced less than 2 years ago. It is leaking oil just a tiny bit. Is that acceptable? Thanks.

It shouldn't leak at all, see if you can carefully tighten a hose or screw. Concerns would be if its sucking air and running lean or not getting enough oil in the fuel.

[007SPRIG]

It shouldn't leak at all, see if you can carefully tighten a hose or screw. Concerns would be if its sucking air and running lean or not getting enough oil in the fuel.

Will do. Thanks.

[No Reservations]

Boat doc I have a 2001 yamaha t8 pxhz power tilt won't move up at all better on the down mode but still not good checked and filled fluid no help I can hold down the ram with my hand no problem the tilt motor sounds fine I removed the power tilt assy from the tilt motor I am assuming I need a new power tilt assy am i correct in assuming this or could it be the tilt motor itself that is weak. Can the tilt asembly be rebuilt or do I need to replace the whole thing.

[Boat Doc']

Boat doc I have a 2001 yamaha t8 pxhz power tilt won't move up at all better on the down mode but still not good checked and filled fluid no help I can hold down the ram with my hand no problem the tilt motor sounds fine I removed the power tilt assy from the tilt motor I am assuming I need a new power tilt assy am i correct in assuming this or could it be the tilt motor itself that is weak. Can the tilt asembly be rebuilt or do I need to replace the whole thing.

If the pump motor runs at a normal speed try running it all the way up and down and keep the motor running for about 5 seconds after it has reached the limits of its travel in both directions. You may be able to dislodge something stuck ina valve. It is a servicable unit.

[No Reservations]

Put it all back together goes down smoothly now but on the way up it stops starts stops but I can get it to go all the way up by tapping the button stuck valve? If so how do you unstick it. I had the unit apart are the valves the two with the springs pin and small ball bearings.

[Boat Doc']

Put it all back together goes down smoothly now but on the way up it stops starts stops but I can get it to go all the way up by tapping the button stuck valve? If so how do you unstick it. I had the unit apart are the valves the two with the springs pin and small ball bearings.

If it starts and stops and the motor stays running then it's either low on fluid or the valves are3 sticking. If you google yamaha outboard parts you can find a breakdown of it

[FastAction]

Boat Doc-

I have had some Issues with the Ignition Key switch On my Evinrude 150 and I pulled it out and found It CHarred Black.. What would cause this other than an obvious short?

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc-

I have had some Issues with the Ignition Key switch On my Evinrude 150 and I pulled it out and found It CHarred Black.. What would cause this other than an obvious short?

Short somewhere or more likely may have got water in it

[kruser91]

I just purchased a used smoker craft lodge w/ a 40 hp 4 stroke. We ran the engine at the guys house and it ran fine in neutral. Yesterday we ran it out on the willamette and it started fine and ran in neutral. When we put it in forward it seemed like it wasn't getting enough gas and started cutting out. After doing this for a while it started to run fine for about 45 minutes, then would do the same thing over. After an hour of running it we had a hard time starting it and even running it in neutral. We have changed the fuel filter and the old gas. Not sure what to do next. Thanks for your time and suggestions. David

[teachertug]

I have a 1994 90 horse Force Outboard. I am replacing the impeller and the nylon coupler to the pick-up tube fused together. When pulling on the nylon coupler, the brass tube came out up in the power head. My question is, it that brass tube just pressed in or do I need to take everything apart from above and feed that tube down? If I put it all back together, will it pump water?

Eric

[EMO870]

Hey guys/Boat Doc. I've been paranoid about the ethanol gas especially over the winter. Here's what I did. Topped off the fuel in October/November, added marine stabil, and fogged the carbs. Pulled the boat out a few weeks ago and started right up but smoked because of the fogging oil left over. Cleared up and ran great the first day but the next week it felt very cold or not getting fuel because I would give it 1/2 throttle and it wouldn't go and then it all of the sudden would go wide open no problem. Feels like something is clogged. I also put a new water fuel separator on it before the first outting. After I throttle down it does the same thing. I'm going to put new gas in the tank, change the water separator again, and hit the carbs with Quicksilver Quickclean. The only way I can explain the throttle issue is it feels like the jet has a stick in it but obviously doesn't because it will go full steam.

Question for those with mechanical background only:
*Can I just siphon the old fuel into my chevy tahoe and let my guzzler eat it up or would this hurt my tahoe? I was going to do half new fuel and siphon half the boat gas. I don't think trucks have water separators but maybe they just eat gas differently than boat motors. Just don't want to spread the problem to my tahoe but don't know how to get rid of 10 gallons of old gas.

*From what I've read, this sounds like bad gas but I thought I did everything to prevent the ethanol issue. Any thoughts?

Thanks all. Have a good season.

EMO870

[Boat Doc']

I just purchased a used smoker craft lodge w/ a 40 hp 4 stroke. We ran the engine at the guys house and it ran fine in neutral. Yesterday we ran it out on the willamette and it started fine and ran in neutral. When we put it in forward it seemed like it wasn't getting enough gas and started cutting out. After doing this for a while it started to run fine for about 45 minutes, then would do the same thing over. After an hour of running it we had a hard time starting it and even running it in neutral. We have changed the fuel filter and the old gas. Not sure what to do next. Thanks for your time and suggestions. David

If its carbureated the carbs need cleaned and synched, if its EFI check the fuel pressure

[Boat Doc']

I have a 1994 90 horse Force Outboard. I am replacing the impeller and the nylon coupler to the pick-up tube fused together. When pulling on the nylon coupler, the brass tube came out up in the power head. My question is, it that brass tube just pressed in or do I need to take everything apart from above and feed that tube down? If I put it all back together, will it pump water?

Eric

Should be able to put a little grease on it and push it back into place, it should work fine

[Boat Doc']

Hey guys/Boat Doc. I've been paranoid about the ethanol gas especially over the winter. Here's what I did. Topped off the fuel in October/November, added marine stabil, and fogged the carbs. Pulled the boat out a few weeks ago and started right up but smoked because of the fogging oil left over. Cleared up and ran great the first day but the next week it felt very cold or not getting fuel because I would give it 1/2 throttle and it wouldn't go and then it all of the sudden would go wide open no problem. Feels like something is clogged. I also put a new water fuel separator on it before the first outting. After I throttle down it does the same thing. I'm going to put new gas in the tank, change the water separator again, and hit the carbs with Quicksilver Quickclean. The only way I can explain the throttle issue is it feels like the jet has a stick in it but obviously doesn't because it will go full steam.

Question for those with mechanical background only:
*Can I just siphon the old fuel into my chevy tahoe and let my guzzler eat it up or would this hurt my tahoe? I was going to do half new fuel and siphon half the boat gas. I don't think trucks have water separators but maybe they just eat gas differently than boat motors. Just don't want to spread the problem to my tahoe but don't know how to get rid of 10 gallons of old gas.

*From what I've read, this sounds like bad gas but I thought I did everything to prevent the ethanol issue. Any thoughts?

Thanks all. Have a good season.

EMO870

My guess is the carbs are plugged up, you might try adding some fuel treatment to the fuel and run it for an hour or so. If that doesn't fix it you would need to take the carbs apart and clean them. I wouldn't run anything in my truck that I wouldn't run in my boat. Be a shame to cause several hundred dollars in repairs to the rig for 30 bucks worth of fuel

[EMO870]

Thanks a bunch Boat Doc. I might be bringing you some business in the next week it it doesn't resolve. I think I have slightly over a half tank of gas. Should I fill it up with new gas in hopes of diluting it and change the fuel/water separator again?

In the future for everyone's benefit, did I do the right thing to winterize my sled or should we all be pumping out the gas at the end of the season, then fogging and run out of gas?

Thanks again for all your great advice. Steven's Marine is top notch in my book.

[FastAction]

Short somewhere or more likely may have got water in it


I know for a fact I got water in it hoseing out the boat

[teachertug]

Should be able to put a little grease on it and push it back into place, it should work fine

Thank you. Just have to figure out how to get grease in there.

Eric

[Salemsled]

Boat Doc,
I have a 2000 Thunderjet Alexis Classic that has a Redline marine engine. The engine is a Ford 5.8L H.O. MFI Using EEC-IV ignition with high and low pressure fuel pumps.
I have been experiencing the following problem with the fuel pump circuit. The 20amp circuit breaker trips when I go to start engine. This breaker does not trip every time I go to start, but at least 75% of the start-up attempts. Circuit breaker trips mostly on initial startup and after running for a while(1 hour or more) and shutting the engine off and then trying to restart.
I have been through the wiring harness double checking for ground and wiring problems(none found). I have also cleaned and double checked Ignition circuit and replaced relays and all appear and test good. Batteries are fully charged.

My concern is that I have an electric fuel pump /pumps that may be on the verge of complete failure due to ethanol related fuel problems. (water in fuel). The fuel system does have a fuel water separator that I change every year but can this e-fuel be such a problem that more frequent service is required.

My hope is that you guys on this forum with more engine experience than I can help answer the following question,
Can this water intrusion cause damage to a fuel pump that would require more amps to operate pump thus tripping the 20 amp circuit. (Intermittent failure)
I have connected code reader to engine and received code 96 in ECA memory. Fuel pump circuit open-BAT-to-relay
Is my theory just completely wacked or am I on the right track. I want to know if my next step is to replace the fuel pumps.

Thanks in advance for any help

[Tony Micelli]

Hey Boat Doc,

I have an early '80's 16 foot Alumaweld FB that needs new floors. Do you know if I can order the floors from Alumaweld pre-cut? Or someone else?

Thanks!

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc,
I have a 2000 Thunderjet Alexis Classic that has a Redline marine engine. The engine is a Ford 5.8L H.O. MFI Using EEC-IV ignition with high and low pressure fuel pumps.
I have been experiencing the following problem with the fuel pump circuit. The 20amp circuit breaker trips when I go to start engine. This breaker does not trip every time I go to start, but at least 75% of the start-up attempts. Circuit breaker trips mostly on initial startup and after running for a while(1 hour or more) and shutting the engine off and then trying to restart.
I have been through the wiring harness double checking for ground and wiring problems(none found). I have also cleaned and double checked Ignition circuit and replaced relays and all appear and test good. Batteries are fully charged.

My concern is that I have an electric fuel pump /pumps that may be on the verge of complete failure due to ethanol related fuel problems. (water in fuel). The fuel system does have a fuel water separator that I change every year but can this e-fuel be such a problem that more frequent service is required.

My hope is that you guys on this forum with more engine experience than I can help answer the following question,
Can this water intrusion cause damage to a fuel pump that would require more amps to operate pump thus tripping the 20 amp circuit. (Intermittent failure)
I have connected code reader to engine and received code 96 in ECA memory. Fuel pump circuit open-BAT-to-relay
Is my theory just completely wacked or am I on the right track. I want to know if my next step is to replace the fuel pumps.

Thanks in advance for any help

I think you are on the right track. I would check the pump draw and pressure. If the pressure is to high it may cause the pump to exceed its rated amperage. If the pressure is ok and the amp draw is less then 20 then you have a breaker issue. If the amps are over 20 then you have a pump issue. Make sure to check all connections. Keep in mind if you have water in the system the engine would run poorly.

[Boat Doc']

Hey Boat Doc,

I have an early '80's 16 foot Alumaweld FB that needs new floors. Do you know if I can order the floors from Alumaweld pre-cut? Or someone else?

Thanks!

You won't get them precut. Hopefully you can use the old ones as a template. You will need to get some wood and vinyl and cut and glue them.

[Salemsled]

I think you are on the right track. I would check the pump draw and pressure. If the pressure is to high it may cause the pump to exceed its rated amperage. If the pressure is ok and the amp draw is less then 20 then you have a breaker issue. If the amps are over 20 then you have a pump issue. Make sure to check all connections. Keep in mind if you have water in the system the engine would run poorly.
Doc,
I think that the amount of water isn't enough to cause the engine to quit running but it definatly is causing a loss of engine performance. The fact that I have more water present than straight non-ethonal fuel is dergrading the service life of the pumps. I believe that there are more water molecules being exposed to the poor little fuel pumps that they are breaking down quicker.
I will run amperage check, if you can give me a little help on where you think I should hook up voltmeter on fuel pump circuit. Do I want to bypass circuit breaker for just a second to run test? I just want want to see Initial amp draw to get pumps started.

[Boat Doc']

Doc,
I think that the amount of water isn't enough to cause the engine to quit running but it definatly is causing a loss of engine performance. The fact that I have more water present than straight non-ethonal fuel is dergrading the service life of the pumps. I believe that there are more water molecules being exposed to the poor little fuel pumps that they are breaking down quicker.
I will run amperage check, if you can give me a little help on where you think I should hook up voltmeter on fuel pump circuit. Do I want to bypass circuit breaker for just a second to run test? I just want want to see Initial amp draw to get pumps started.

Bypassing the breaker long enough to see a spike then settle down would be easiest

[Salemsled]

Bypassing the breaker long enough to see a spike then settle down would be easiest
Thanks boat Doc,
That should be an easy enough test, and if I see more than 20 amps I will know that its time to change pumps.
Its hard to tell if this could be a result of e-fuel, the pumps are ten years old and it might be time they got changed out no matter what type of fuel they were running.
Thanks again for the help

[dieseldoc]

Boat Doc, I am looking to puchase a kicker motor to mount on the top of the transom on my 2002 17ft osprey deluxe smokercraft. Where do I measure to determine the correct shaft length? would a 9.9hp troll too fast? thks.

[Joe C]

hey boat doc. got my first 4 stroke kicker (a 9.8 tohatsu) and didn't know I couldn't lay it on "the wrong side" so a bunch o oil leaked out and it wouldn't start.

I couldn't pull the pull cord, so i pulled out the spark plugs and when I pulled the cord, oil splatted out.

I cleaned out the cylinder by oulling the cord till no more oil cam out. then wiped around in there with a paper towel.

Bought new spark plugs, filled the oil back up, and pulled the cord... and it still won't fire up.

ANy suggestions?

[igottafish]

Dear Boat Doc, I have a 1977 175hp 302 ford omc . I had a boat shop give me a diagnoss for $85.00 because it was dropping dwell at around 3800 rpms. they said either spark plugs , spark plug wires or the pertronix eletric ignition in the distributer. I change spark plugs spark plug wires and pertronix device in distributer and it still loses electrical power at about 3800-4000 rpms ?? what else could be causing my problem?? they said it is diffenitly electrical???
Tahnbks Chris

[igottafish]

Dear Boat Doc, I have a 1977 175hp 302 ford omc . I had a boat shop give me a diagnoss for $85.00 because it was dropping dwell at around 3800 rpms. they said either spark plugs , spark plug wires or the pertronix eletric ignition in the distributer. I change spark plugs spark plug wires and pertronix device in distributer and it still loses electrical power at about 3800-4000 rpms ?? what else could be causing my problem?? they said it is diffenitly electrical???
Tahnbks Chris


Oh and i also changed the coil

[Boat Doc']

hey boat doc. got my first 4 stroke kicker (a 9.8 tohatsu) and didn't know I couldn't lay it on "the wrong side" so a bunch o oil leaked out and it wouldn't start.

I couldn't pull the pull cord, so i pulled out the spark plugs and when I pulled the cord, oil splatted out.

I cleaned out the cylinder by oulling the cord till no more oil cam out. then wiped around in there with a paper towel.

Bought new spark plugs, filled the oil back up, and pulled the cord... and it still won't fire up.

ANy suggestions?

Plugs are probably fouled, clean them with some carb cleaner and try it again, make sure the lanyard switch is in the run position

[Boat Doc']

Dear Boat Doc, I have a 1977 175hp 302 ford omc . I had a boat shop give me a diagnoss for $85.00 because it was dropping dwell at around 3800 rpms. they said either spark plugs , spark plug wires or the pertronix eletric ignition in the distributer. I change spark plugs spark plug wires and pertronix device in distributer and it still loses electrical power at about 3800-4000 rpms ?? what else could be causing my problem?? they said it is diffenitly electrical???
Tahnbks Chris

Shift interrupt switches or possibly losing voltage to the coil or bad coil or wires come to mind.

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc, I am looking to puchase a kicker motor to mount on the top of the transom on my 2002 17ft osprey deluxe smokercraft. Where do I measure to determine the correct shaft length? would a 9.9hp troll too fast? thks.

Top of the transom to bottom where the motor will sit, 9.9 should work fine, may have to change prop and lower the idle speed

[igottafish]

I changed the coil and the shifter is a button shifter i dont think there is a shift interupt swicth in it???

[marthagofish]

How does a livewell work in a 2000 16ft Intruder?
I can not figure out how to turn it on.
Water goes in it when the boat is in the water.

Mark

[stevo]

Boat Doc, I have a '95 8hp merc 2 stroke, and for the life of me I cannot find which NGK plugs it takes, can you give me the #?
Also, the motor runs well, most of the time, but when idling it will occaisionally drop down in RPMs and die, unless I pop the plunge choke. The RPMs come back up and I am good again, for a while (10-15 minutes) I've run a full can of sea foam through it, cleaned the fuel filter and sprayed carb cleaner into the carb. Next step, besides new spark pugs?
Thanks

[Boat Doc']

I changed the coil and the shifter is a button shifter i dont think there is a shift interupt swicth in it???

You do not have an interupt switch, would still be looking at voltage drop, try applying 12 volts directly to the positive side of the coil, cap and rotor, and dist advance

[Boat Doc']

How does a livewell work in a 2000 16ft Intruder?
I can not figure out how to turn it on.
Water goes in it when the boat is in the water.

Mark
If it has a live well it was added on, need to locate the pump and follow the wires to the switch

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc, I have a '95 8hp merc 2 stroke, and for the life of me I cannot find which NGK plugs it takes, can you give me the #?
Also, the motor runs well, most of the time, but when idling it will occaisionally drop down in RPMs and die, unless I pop the plunge choke. The RPMs come back up and I am good again, for a while (10-15 minutes) I've run a full can of sea foam through it, cleaned the fuel filter and sprayed carb cleaner into the carb. Next step, besides new spark pugs?
Thanks

BP8HN-10, Try richening up the mixture, make sure the thermostat is functioning or if it doesn't have one install one

[stevo]

Thanks Boat 'Doc.
I really need to get a manual. Is the fuel/air ratio screw the brass one at the front of the carbuerator? And is CW richer or CCW?
Thanks again.

[Joe C]

Plugs are probably fouled, clean them with some carb cleaner and try it again, make sure the lanyard switch is in the run position

got new plug. refilled the oil... nothings workin though. any other areas I could have screwed up?

[Boat Doc']

got new plug. refilled the oil... nothings workin though. any other areas I could have screwed up?

Verify you have spark, if its been sitting a long time the carb may need to be cleaned. If the above are ok you need to get the oil out of the cylinders and clean the plugs

[backlash442]

Boat Doc,

Simple question for you. If you run your boat a couple of hours a month, is it really necessary to change your oil once a year? Fish only freshwater and I can't put many hours on the boat since the lakes are just to small. Thanks.

[rags]

Boat Doc,
I had a hot sink installed off my Mercury 9.9 several years ago and it has always worked fine. I tried it the other day and get no water into the sink. I took the valve off to see if there was anything plugging it and it looked clear all the way back to where it goes into the side of the motor. What should I do next? Thank You. The motor runs fine and has a strong pee stream.

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc,

Simple question for you. If you run your boat a couple of hours a month, is it really necessary to change your oil once a year? Fish only freshwater and I can't put many hours on the boat since the lakes are just to small. Thanks.

Personally I would be on the 4-5 year plan although other people would disagree

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc,
I had a hot sink installed off my Mercury 9.9 several years ago and it has always worked fine. I tried it the other day and get no water into the sink. I took the valve off to see if there was anything plugging it and it looked clear all the way back to where it goes into the side of the motor. What should I do next? Thank You. The motor runs fine and has a strong pee stream.

It has to be blocked somewhere where it attaches to the block and where it comes out

[rags]

It has to be blocked somewhere where it attaches to the block and where it comes out
Thanks Doc,
The nipple that is attached to the block must be blocked as I stuck a small wire into it and felt blockage. The wire broke through and some water came out. One simple question-- to remove the nipple do I take the bolt out on the lower part? Is it attached any other place? After I clean it and remove the blockage do I need any silicon or other sealer when reattaching? Thank You.

[Bait Girl]

Hey Boat Doc-

Our neighbor has a problem we've been trying to help him with , but we've come up with nothing. He has a 21' NR Scout, 2002, and as of late has a fuel leak we cannot find. We've pulled up the floor boards, looked over all the hoses for worn spots, tightened all connections, even did a pressure test on the fuel line, which came back A-OK. And yet his boat reeks of gasoline and you can see it in the bilge water when we open the floor hatch. The problem seems the worst after he has fueled up, which makes us think the problem is in the forward part of the boat, but we cannot locate it. Any other ideas of how we can find the leak? Thanks

Bait Girl

[Boat Doc']

Thanks Doc,
The nipple that is attached to the block must be blocked as I stuck a small wire into it and felt blockage. The wire broke through and some water came out. One simple question-- to remove the nipple do I take the bolt out on the lower part? Is it attached any other place? After I clean it and remove the blockage do I need any silicon or other sealer when reattaching? Thank You.

You can take the bolt out or unscrew the nipple, you will need to put some kind of sealer on it

[Boat Doc']

Hey Boat Doc-

Our neighbor has a problem we've been trying to help him with , but we've come up with nothing. He has a 21' NR Scout, 2002, and as of late has a fuel leak we cannot find. We've pulled up the floor boards, looked over all the hoses for worn spots, tightened all connections, even did a pressure test on the fuel line, which came back A-OK. And yet his boat reeks of gasoline and you can see it in the bilge water when we open the floor hatch. The problem seems the worst after he has fueled up, which makes us think the problem is in the forward part of the boat, but we cannot locate it. Any other ideas of how we can find the leak? Thanks

Bait Girl

Best way is to make it accessible and pressure test the tank. It may have a vent line on the front that may be leaking

[fishnjet]

Boat Doc,

Thanks in advance for all the help you give. Been reading your advice. I have a 2000 Regal 1700 with a Mercury 175 XR2 Sports Jet. This year I am having a problem with the overheat alarm going off at idle when tied to a dock. I am not sure if the only water pump is the jet or if there is also a cooling pump. I can untie from dock and without leaving idle speed just raise the reverse gate and start forward and within a minute it quits. Lake water temp was 82. Idle is set at 1000RPM. If it has a cooling pump where is it located? Otherwise boat runs great. Any guidance is appreciated.

Thanks,
Tim

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc,

Thanks in advance for all the help you give. Been reading your advice. I have a 2000 Regal 1700 with a Mercury 175 XR2 Sports Jet. This year I am having a problem with the overheat alarm going off at idle when tied to a dock. I am not sure if the only water pump is the jet or if there is also a cooling pump. I can untie from dock and without leaving idle speed just raise the reverse gate and start forward and within a minute it quits. Lake water temp was 82. Idle is set at 1000RPM. If it has a cooling pump where is it located? Otherwise boat runs great. Any guidance is appreciated.

Thanks,
Tim

[Boat Doc']

Jet pump is the water pump, idle speed shouild be 1100. You may just need to set the idle speed a little higher

[fishnjet]

Jet pump is the water pump, idle speed shouild be 1100. You may just need to set the idle speed a little higher
Thanks. Will try that.
Tim

[dmlz]

I bought a 19' 2003 Alumaweld Stryker last Friday with a 2003 Yamaha 115.
The motor runs like a top but while I was out on Hagg Lake on Saturday I noticed an arrow on the digital tach above the oil symbol. I honestly couldn't say if the arrow was there before or if it came on that day. I've tried to do some searching online but couldnt really find any info to help me out.
I of course have checked the oil and its full and looks good.
Am I right to assume that the arrow shouldn't be there?
Attached should be a picture so you can see what I'm seeing.
Thanks in advance for any advice you can lend.

[Boat Doc']

I bought a 19' 2003 Alumaweld Stryker last Friday with a 2003 Yamaha 115.
The motor runs like a top but while I was out on Hagg Lake on Saturday I noticed an arrow on the digital tach above the oil symbol. I honestly couldn't say if the arrow was there before or if it came on that day. I've tried to do some searching online but couldnt really find any info to help me out.
I of course have checked the oil and its full and looks good.
Am I right to assume that the arrow shouldn't be there?
Attached should be a picture so you can see what I'm seeing.
Thanks in advance for any advice you can lend.

Low oil or oil pressure, see if it goes away with engine running

[dmlz]

Low oil or oil pressure, see if it goes away with engine running
the oil isn't low and it doesnt go away when the engine is running.

[Boat Doc']

the oil isn't low and it doesnt go away when the engine is running.

I don't have a manual that tells specifically what the arrow means, you might try downloading one on line or try a Yamaha dealer to see if they know

[dmlz]

I don't have a manual that tells specifically what the arrow means, you might try downloading one on line or try a Yamaha dealer to see if they know

Okay. Thanks for your time

[Aaronjc]

Boat Doc' - So i am getting close to pulling all my hair out with this problem, i have a 1992 Four Winns 180 horizon with a I/0 omc 5.0 cobra motor it was running and starting perfect when we stored the boat after properly winterizing it, we took it out of storage and were prepping it for the season when we attempted to start it, it started then remained starting even when we turned off the ignition. We quickly had to unhook the battery cables which where close to being glowing hot, with further investigation we found that the starter solenoid was welded in the start position from the high amount of amps, we took it out and replaced it with a new one which promptly did the exact same thing as the old solenoid (lather rinse repeat) one last time thinking that we got a bad solenoid and once again it happened. We have replaced the ignition, dead man switch, the starter was rebuilt and the fuseable links have good fuses in them and still the same thing happens, what are we missing?!!?!? i am going to go bald and i am only 25! Please HELP!!

[jackr up]

Great motors, they can have issues with alcohol affecting the rubber water pump impeller. But no big deal, replace it as necessary

I am not the dumbest person here... but how does alcohol in fuel effect a waterpump fully submerged in water and never exposed to the incomming fuel charge....

[jackr up]

Boat Doc' - So i am getting close to pulling all my hair out with this problem, i have a 1992 Four Winns 180 horizon with a I/0 omc 5.0 cobra motor it was running and starting perfect when we stored the boat after properly winterizing it, we took it out of storage and were prepping it for the season when we attempted to start it, it started then remained starting even when we turned off the ignition. We quickly had to unhook the battery cables which where close to being glowing hot, with further investigation we found that the starter solenoid was welded in the start position from the high amount of amps, we took it out and replaced it with a new one which promptly did the exact same thing as the old solenoid (lather rinse repeat) one last time thinking that we got a bad solenoid and once again it happened. We have replaced the ignition, dead man switch, the starter was rebuilt and the fuseable links have good fuses in them and still the same thing happens, what are we missing?!!?!? i am going to go bald and i am only 25! Please HELP!!

Look for a short on the yellow wire with red stripe going to starter causing the failure. Chances are a critter or 2 made a nest somewhere and used wire insulation as a bed. Can be anywhere along the run to the controlls. Also check the wire placement on the starter its self to make sure you aren't getting cross connection from an igition hot terminal or latching circut off of the solinoid

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc' - So i am getting close to pulling all my hair out with this problem, i have a 1992 Four Winns 180 horizon with a I/0 omc 5.0 cobra motor it was running and starting perfect when we stored the boat after properly winterizing it, we took it out of storage and were prepping it for the season when we attempted to start it, it started then remained starting even when we turned off the ignition. We quickly had to unhook the battery cables which where close to being glowing hot, with further investigation we found that the starter solenoid was welded in the start position from the high amount of amps, we took it out and replaced it with a new one which promptly did the exact same thing as the old solenoid (lather rinse repeat) one last time thinking that we got a bad solenoid and once again it happened. We have replaced the ignition, dead man switch, the starter was rebuilt and the fuseable links have good fuses in them and still the same thing happens, what are we missing?!!?!? i am going to go bald and i am only 25! Please HELP!!

Would have to be ignition switch, or one of the solenoids if it has 2.

[Boat Doc']

I am not the dumbest person here... but how does alcohol in fuel effect a waterpump fully submerged in water and never exposed to the incomming fuel charge....

The driveshaft is exposed to exhaust, the oil/fuel mix runs down the shaft when out of the water and has been known to affect the impellers

[Salemsled]

Bypassing the breaker long enough to see a spike then settle down would be easiest

Hey Doc,

I didn't even bother with jumping the breaker to test for amps. I figured that the fuel pumps are the only thing on that circuit after the breaker so its liking running a continuity test on a burnt out light bulb.
I changed out both High and low pressure pumps last week.
I also changed fuel filter while swapping pumps and pre filled the filter before reinstalling.
Put the Boat in the Willamette Saturday down in Salem. After warm up twenty minute test run checking for fuel leaks, I gathered up the kids and ran up and down the river for 3 hours.
Boat ran great, no hesitations and started each and everytime on first attempt.
Thanks again for your help!:applause:

[Fishalot]

Hi there Boat Doc.

I have a 1988 15 hp Evenrude, this motor is over heating. It gets to hot to touch the head. I replaced the thermostat including o ring, spring, spring seat, and thermostat seat. The water pump is working properly( good water flow like in past years.
I am lost as to where to go from here.

Thank you,
Fishalot

[feisty's wife]

Boat guy, I have an Evinrude 65 ho OB on my Arima, seems to run ok so far, any exp. with them?1975 model, tite compresssion.Any resources on this?

[Boat Doc']

Hi there Boat Doc.

I have a 1988 15 hp Evenrude, this motor is over heating. It gets to hot to touch the head. I replaced the thermostat including o ring, spring, spring seat, and thermostat seat. The water pump is working properly( good water flow like in past years.
I am lost as to where to go from here.

Thank you,
Fishalot

Use a infra red thermometer to see the actual temp. anything over around 105 may be to hot to touch but it may have a 120 to 150 degree thermostat. You may not have a problem

[Boat Doc']

Boat guy, I have an Evinrude 65 ho OB on my Arima, seems to run ok so far, any exp. with them?1975 model, tite compresssion.Any resources on this?

Normal maintenance, plugs, filters, gear oil and water pump. Should run a long time. Probably can down load a manual from the web.

[jackr up]

The driveshaft is exposed to exhaust, the oil/fuel mix runs down the shaft when out of the water and has been known to affect the impellers

not very likely since there is an exhaust can with 2 rubber seals that the drive shaft sits in front of..... and unless this can has been removed ( which requires a power head removal along with the top motor mount and adaptor plates) the shaft never sees raw fuel AFTER the exhaust ports.... and IF you get raw fuel out the exhaust on shut down there is SERIOUS engine problems going on.....

not to mention a top seal missing on the drive shaft and a lower crank seal missing....


sorry rick.... i disagree here...

Stacey Littler.

[seaworthy]

Dear boat doc, I have a 97 yamaha 9.9 electric start kicker that is very cold blooded. Is there a electric choke on this moters? Once it is warm it runs great. Any advice?

[honker1]

Boat Doc...My 8hp 2008 4-stroke trolling motor wouldn't run unless I had the choke always engaged. Bought the book, read the manual, ordered the parts, and plunged in with both hands. The manual said to remove #9 (Main Nozzle). For the life of me, I couldn't get it out. I removed the Main Jet and o-ring, but the nozzle wouldn't come out.
I findly gave up and flushed it with carb cleaner and air pressure. Put everything back together and the motor will now run with the choke disengagaged, but I still would like to know the secret of how to get the main nozzle out. Is it removable? Do you need to put something inside the throat of the carburetor and push the nozzle out?
Also, the motor still doesn't want to idle smooth. But it had been this way since I purchased it. Any ideas? Drill out the cover over the pilot screw and try adjusting the pilot opening? Would appreciate any words of wisdom you can share with me. http://www.ifish.net/board/images/icons/icon11.gif

[Boat Doc']

not very likely since there is an exhaust can with 2 rubber seals that the drive shaft sits in front of..... and unless this can has been removed ( which requires a power head removal along with the top motor mount and adaptor plates) the shaft never sees raw fuel AFTER the exhaust ports.... and IF you get raw fuel out the exhaust on shut down there is SERIOUS engine problems going on.....

not to mention a top seal missing on the drive shaft and a lower crank seal missing....


sorry rick.... i disagree here...

Stacey Littler.
Used to see it all the time, sorry you disagree

[Boat Doc']

Dear boat doc, I have a 97 yamaha 9.9 electric start kicker that is very cold blooded. Is there a electric choke on this moters? Once it is warm it runs great. Any advice?

Yes, you would either pull a lever for tiller handle or push in on the key for remote

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc...My 8hp 2008 4-stroke trolling motor wouldn't run unless I had the choke always engaged. Bought the book, read the manual, ordered the parts, and plunged in with both hands. The manual said to remove #9 (Main Nozzle). For the life of me, I couldn't get it out. I removed the Main Jet and o-ring, but the nozzle wouldn't come out.
I findly gave up and flushed it with carb cleaner and air pressure. Put everything back together and the motor will now run with the choke disengagaged, but I still would like to know the secret of how to get the main nozzle out. Is it removable? Do you need to put something inside the throat of the carburetor and push the nozzle out?
Also, the motor still doesn't want to idle smooth. But it had been this way since I purchased it. Any ideas? Drill out the cover over the pilot screw and try adjusting the pilot opening? Would appreciate any words of wisdom you can share with me. http://www.ifish.net/board/images/icons/icon11.gif

The nozzle is removable with a little more effort than applied so far. So far as your poor idle make sure the thermostat is functioning, meaning not running cold. If its ok remove the plug on the side of the carb to access the idle mixture screw. You will need to make sure all the poassages associated with that screw are clear.

[honker1]

Thanks Doc...Will rebuild the carburetor again this winter, and this time I will use a bigger hammer to get the nozzel out (just kidding). Also may start removing some other jet or passages that weren't showing in the manual, but were there. Thank for all your help.

[michiganfish]

Hi all! I purchased a "family boat" mainly to take my wife and young family fishing with me. This has a 115hp Mariner (early 80s). This was recently purchased on a "water ready" basis. I have taken it out twice and everything starts up, trim works, choke seems fine, motor runs great. My question is that both times in the water there was gas in the water at the back of the boat. I am not sure that it was a lot, but enough to bother me. When the boat is sitting on the trailer in the driveway there is no gas leakage. Do you have any suggestions for me? Would there be any troubleshooting that anyone could help with. Thanks for your time in reading this. (I do want to learn this stuff! sorry for my ignorance!)

michiganfish (John)

[hazdog]

Boat Doc,
Do you have any suggestions for a Marine Machinist that could work on cylinders for a Suzuki 9.9. The Bore is 2.28. Had some rust and looking to either get a little bigger piston and bore the cylinders or re-sleeve. Thank for any input. I live in the Portland area.

[Boat Doc']

Hi all! I purchased a "family boat" mainly to take my wife and young family fishing with me. This has a 115hp Mariner (early 80s). This was recently purchased on a "water ready" basis. I have taken it out twice and everything starts up, trim works, choke seems fine, motor runs great. My question is that both times in the water there was gas in the water at the back of the boat. I am not sure that it was a lot, but enough to bother me. When the boat is sitting on the trailer in the driveway there is no gas leakage. Do you have any suggestions for me? Would there be any troubleshooting that anyone could help with. Thanks for your time in reading this. (I do want to learn this stuff! sorry for my ignorance!)

michiganfish (John)

Look at the small rubber hoses that attach to the right side and front of the block to see if they are cracked or broke. It is normal for fuel to run out of the carbs when tilted. You may be seeing the residue from that

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc,
Do you have any suggestions for a Marine Machinist that could work on cylinders for a Suzuki 9.9. The Bore is 2.28. Had some rust and looking to either get a little bigger piston and bore the cylinders or re-sleeve. Thank for any input. I live in the Portland area.

Try Bearing Service 503-222-1366 for the machine work. Make sure you check foir available piston sizes beforehand