Stevens Marine Boat Doc'

[Boat Doc']

I would really appreciate some advice on my 40 year old Mercury 350 (35hp) Outboard's stalling problem.

It seems to run fine with earmuffs (in my yard), but out on the water, if I motor at higher throttle for about 5 minutes, it starts to sputter and die back. If I ease the throttle lever back some, it tends to keep going. When I back it down to idle speed (or close to it) it will die.

I have rebuilt the fuel line from the gas tank, including the bulb. I replaced the remote gas tank. The impeller seems to work, I always have water being ejected from the pee hole. I put in some carburetor cleaner the last time out, no change! I always check and be sure to open the vent screw on the remote tank.

Any suggestions for troubleshooting would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Steve

If squeezing the primer bulb doesn't help I would lean toward an ignition issue, anything from points, condenser, coils or stator depending on what type ignition it has. Outside chance if it has a bunch of hours on it of a reed block wore out.

[Bleed'm N Eat'm]

If it idles good and accelerates smoothly I would guess a different prop would be needed

The idle also seems to be the problem. Sometimes it idles right on down while other times it just seems to die. Ive wondered about the prop a few times tho.

[Boat Doc']

The idle also seems to be the problem. Sometimes it idles right on down while other times it just seems to die. Ive wondered about the prop a few times tho.

Still thinking prop

[deadstick]

Boat Doc.

I have a 210 Sportjet (carburated). Love the boat and motor, motor has about 260 hours. At partail throttle openings mainly below 1/2 it seems to run pretty rich. Above half things clean up pretty nice. Looking at the shop manual I see the backdraft circuit controls partial throttle setting somewhat. Would it be wise to mess with this jet? I am assuming since it is on the air side you would go larger, at least that is my understanding. Any input?

PS I understand what happens to 2 stroke motors that are ran too lean. I am a motorcycle guy and have learned that lesson.

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc.

I have a 210 Sportjet (carburated). Love the boat and motor, motor has about 260 hours. At partail throttle openings mainly below 1/2 it seems to run pretty rich. Above half things clean up pretty nice. Looking at the shop manual I see the backdraft circuit controls partial throttle setting somewhat. Would it be wise to mess with this jet? I am assuming since it is on the air side you would go larger, at least that is my understanding. Any input?

PS I understand what happens to 2 stroke motors that are ran too lean. I am a motorcycle guy and have learned that lesson.

Check the synchronization first and look at any external recirculation hoses to make sure they aren't broken or split. Only then would I mess with any jets at your own risk!

[dutch]

Hi Doc: I have a 08 NR Trapper with an inboard small block and was considering installing rigid foil faced insulation inside my motor cover. Do you think it will help dampen the motor noise? Do you see any potential problems with this idea?
Thanks

[Boat Doc']

Hi Doc: I have a 08 NR Trapper with an inboard small block and was considering installing rigid foil faced insulation inside my motor cover. Do you think it will help dampen the motor noise? Do you see any potential problems with this idea?
Thanks

It will dampen the noise, make sure you have good air circulation so the engine compartment doesn't get to hot

[russhuck]

It will dampen the noise, make sure you have good air circulation so the engine compartment doesn't get to hot


I have an inboard jet and I used Dynamat extreme sound barrier and it works very well. Might be worth looking into..
R

[Whiskey Dick]

Hi Boat Doc, I have a new to me 91 North River 18' 6" center console with a 115 mercury jet pump. I took it out today and it runs nice but i noticed one little problem, It will not idle. When you put it in neutral it still pushes the boat forward. The forward/neutral/reverse control on the center console says Quicksilver on it. Talked to a Local boat expert on saturday and he told me that as it is a jet it will not idle is he right?. Thanks

[bigwall]

Hey Boat Doc,

Alarm went off on my 1994 Mercury 150 (Black Max) after 20-30 minutes of running. Constant alarm - not a beep-beep-beep. Shut off and restarted after an hour. Ran for 5 minutes before same alarm came on again. Water is coming out of the pee hole, no loss of power. Overheating? What would you recommend I check first?

Thanks,

Bigwall

[Boat Doc']

Hi Boat Doc, I have a new to me 91 North River 18' 6" center console with a 115 mercury jet pump. I took it out today and it runs nice but i noticed one little problem, It will not idle. When you put it in neutral it still pushes the boat forward. The forward/neutral/reverse control on the center console says Quicksilver on it. Talked to a Local boat expert on saturday and he told me that as it is a jet it will not idle is he right?. Thanks

Adjustments for the shift are to ensure that it is all the way in forward. There is no neutral adjustment without moving the shift lever to acheive a balanced thrust . So yes it will always creep forward and it is normal

[Boat Doc']

Hey Boat Doc,

Alarm went off on my 1994 Mercury 150 (Black Max) after 20-30 minutes of running. Constant alarm - not a beep-beep-beep. Shut off and restarted after an hour. Ran for 5 minutes before same alarm came on again. Water is coming out of the pee hole, no loss of power. Overheating? What would you recommend I check first?

Thanks,

Bigwall

Remove the lower unit and check the watewr pump

[Ajax22]

boat doc,
i have an old 1960-63 75hp w/magneto johnson seahorse that doesn't want to start even after putting new plugs, wires, points, and coil in it. but when i test each plug for spark there is more than enough.
oh yeah i forgot to mention that about two weeks ago me and my dad went sturgeon fishing with this same motor. it doesn't make since by all means if you can help i would be very thankful, she still has a bit of life left so the last thing i want to do is use her as an anchor. please help!!!!!

[Boat Doc']

boat doc,
i have an old 1960-63 75hp w/magneto johnson seahorse that doesn't want to start even after putting new plugs, wires, points, and coil in it. but when i test each plug for spark there is more than enough.
oh yeah i forgot to mention that about two weeks ago me and my dad went sturgeon fishing with this same motor. it doesn't make since by all means if you can help i would be very thankful, she still has a bit of life left so the last thing i want to do is use her as an anchor. please help!!!!!

If it has good spark it has to be fuel. Take a sample and make sure it looks ok.

[Ajax22]

If it has good spark it has to be fuel. Take a sample and make sure it looks ok.
the motor won't even turn over but when you pull a plug out their is spark present. fuel is good that's not the problem. plain and simlpe it doesn't seem to have electricity present until you pull a plug out. what next

[Quick Draw]

Boat Doc-

I have a 140 OB Johnson that is early 80's model. Motor genrally starts up fine and gets out and runs around good, issue is coming when after I have anchored a few times it has an increasingly difficult time restarting.

Thought it was flooded so I let it sit and tried again every 10 mins for 30 mins span. Used the choke, no choke, lifted the start lever, didn't lift it, hand pumped the gas bulb....Wouldn't start.

I appreciate your thoughts

[Boat Doc']

the motor won't even turn over but when you pull a plug out their is spark present. fuel is good that's not the problem. plain and simlpe it doesn't seem to have electricity present until you pull a plug out. what next

You should have a blue spark that will jump a 1/4 inch gap.

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc-

I have a 140 OB Johnson that is early 80's model. Motor genrally starts up fine and gets out and runs around good, issue is coming when after I have anchored a few times it has an increasingly difficult time restarting.

Thought it was flooded so I let it sit and tried again every 10 mins for 30 mins span. Used the choke, no choke, lifted the start lever, didn't lift it, hand pumped the gas bulb....Wouldn't start.

I appreciate your thoughts

Check spark and fuel and go from there

[Quick Draw]

Will do on the spark plug. All things considered should I be using something different than unleaded gas from any of the regular stations?



Check spark and fuel and go from there

[Ajax22]

You should have a blue spark that will jump a 1/4 inch gap.
yes your right, we have the blue spark you were talking about. but when we turn the key over the motor doesn't even crank. why is that?

[snohonative]

Hi Boat Doc,

I have a 1999 Evinrude FICHT 115 Motor. I just put a new powerhead on it and I was wondering if the only way to time it was through the diagnostic software or can I just do it mechanically. Thanks for the help.

[Boat Doc']

Will do on the spark plug. All things considered should I be using something different than unleaded gas from any of the regular stations?

Unleaded would be fine

[Boat Doc']

yes your right, we have the blue spark you were talking about. but when we turn the key over the motor doesn't even crank. why is that?

Could be the key switch, neutral safety switch, solenoid, starter or cables. Need to work your way back from the key switch to see which component is not functioning

[Ajax22]

Could be the key switch, neutral safety switch, solenoid, starter or cables. Need to work your way back from the key switch to see which component is not functioning
thanks for the feedback i'll let you know what happens

[Ajax22]

hi boat doc,
i found a 40 hp merc for $50 on cragslist and the guy posted the motor is complete but he said that he tried to replace the water pump but the drive shaft was stuck. is it worth buying? is it an easy fix? what would cause this?

[Boat Doc']

hi boat doc,
i found a 40 hp merc for $50 on cragslist and the guy posted the motor is complete but he said that he tried to replace the water pump but the drive shaft was stuck. is it worth buying? is it an easy fix? what would cause this?

I would stay away. You need to cut a hole in the midsection, cut the shaft, remove the crank and pull the stuck shaft out and reweld/reassemble. Lots of time and money

[Ajax22]

I would stay away. You need to cut a hole in the midsection, cut the shaft, remove the crank and pull the stuck shaft out and reweld/reassemble. Lots of time and money
my buddy was right, boat doc you rock

[Ajax22]

boat doc,
just a quick question, i have an old 25hp mariner that i can't put a date on, not sure if this number will help but this is the only one i found. the number is 695 s 008937 thanks for any feedback.

[Boat Doc']

boat doc,
just a quick question, i have an old 25hp mariner that i can't put a date on, not sure if this number will help but this is the only one i found. the number is 695 s 008937 thanks for any feedback.

1988 or 1989

[Wildgoose]

Doc - Got a 96 Merc 115 ELPTO 2 stroke, mine since new. Never a hitch.
Yesterday up on plane steady alarm sounds. Shut down and check oil (3/4 full) temp and water pee pipe ok ( can touch engine). I plug in the kicker mix gas to cautiously get to the trailer. Cool motor and still alarm sounds if key is just on , not even running.
If I understand, some sensor has grounded. I read that some Mercs have magnets that can fall off in the res, float system. Does my models module make an intermitten beep for oil and steady for temp? This is steady. Is there an oil flow sensor and level sensor? Also I think I see a small oil filter behind the res. Does it need changing. How would you begin to isolate the fault.
Any thoughts appreciated. I'll be away from here for a week and would sure like to chase some Kings when I get back.

Thanks, John

[Boat Doc']

Doc - Got a 96 Merc 115 ELPTO 2 stroke, mine since new. Never a hitch.
Yesterday up on plane steady alarm sounds. Shut down and check oil (3/4 full) temp and water pee pipe ok ( can touch engine). I plug in the kicker mix gas to cautiously get to the trailer. Cool motor and still alarm sounds if key is just on , not even running.
If I understand, some sensor has grounded. I read that some Mercs have magnets that can fall off in the res, float system. Does my models module make an intermitten beep for oil and steady for temp? This is steady. Is there an oil flow sensor and level sensor? Also I think I see a small oil filter behind the res. Does it need changing. How would you begin to isolate the fault.
Any thoughts appreciated. I'll be away from here for a week and would sure like to chase some Kings when I get back.

Thanks, John
Overheat or oil level the alarm sounds the same. Remove the temp sensor and oil sensor wires one at a time from the junction block and see which one shuts it off. If neither one shuts it off the module is bad. Most likely the float has sunk in the tank. Remove the tank and turn it upside down. If it stops then you will need to replace the tank.

[eharris]

Boat Doc - I have a 2006 Mercury 4 stroke 60hp. I have been considering adding a tach and hourmeter. What is the best option for a man on a budget?

Evan

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc - I have a 2006 Mercury 4 stroke 60hp. I have been considering adding a tach and hourmeter. What is the best option for a man on a budget?

Evan
For 340.00 you could have a digital multi function gauge that displays hours, tach, temp, oil pressure, volts etc. You go thru the functions by pressing a button. It defaults to tach setting.

[eharris]

Thanks Boat Doc, is that something that I can do myself (I am pretty handy but not knowledgeable about boat wiring)? Is it a matter of just connecting a connector that already exists to the unit?

Evan

[Sam-on]

Boat Doc

I have a 1995 200HP Mercury 2.5 L Outboard that was partially rebuilt one new piston all new rings and gaskets due to a stripped gear related to the autolube. After a couple short test runs the staggered beep alarm sounds on start up; the resevoir in the motor is full yet the oil tube coming out of the pump is not filling up. My guess is the gear has stripped out again; what other things should I check that may possibly cause this? Also is there a step by step instruction guide to remove the oil injection system for this particular motor or could you tell me what needs to be done so that I can just premix my fuel and avoid another motor meltdown.

Thanks --- Sam

[Sam-on]

Boat Doc

I removed the entire autolube system and replaced the fuel line and blocked off the oil pump port. My only question is how do you disarm the low oil alert sensor/alarm? Also does the vacuum line for oil supply coming off the power head need to be plugged?

Thanks much ---- Sam

[dutch]

Boat Doc-

I have a NR Trapper with a 5.7L 350CI. What should my rpm's be when I'm idling?

[Slow and Low]

Hello,

I have a brand new 20' super vee with 150 opti jet. The thing is vibrating the screws out of the floor. Carpeting the trays or rubber pads isn't going to do it. What is a real fix for this?

[boatman]

I have a 04 60hp merc. that dies while under way. At 1st thought it was the blub because if you pump it takes off. changed blub did not correct problem.Does not do it all the time, may run for 3 hours with no problem. any ideas? Thanks in advance.

[Boat Doc']

Thanks Boat Doc, is that something that I can do myself (I am pretty handy but not knowledgeable about boat wiring)? Is it a matter of just connecting a connector that already exists to the unit?

Evan
You need to drill a hole in the dash and plug a harness into a plug on the engine.

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc

I removed the entire autolube system and replaced the fuel line and blocked off the oil pump port. My only question is how do you disarm the low oil alert sensor/alarm? Also does the vacuum line for oil supply coming off the power head need to be plugged?

Thanks much ---- Sam
You need to remove the oil module wires from the switch box and plug the pressure hole on the side of the block

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc-

I have a NR Trapper with a 5.7L 350CI. What should my rpm's be when I'm idling?
Approx 650-750

[Boat Doc']

Hello,

I have a brand new 20' super vee with 150 opti jet. The thing is vibrating the screws out of the floor. Carpeting the trays or rubber pads isn't going to do it. What is a real fix for this?

There should be very little vibration, I would check for something wrapped around an impeller blade

[Boat Doc']

I have a 04 60hp merc. that dies while under way. At 1st thought it was the blub because if you pump it takes off. changed blub did not correct problem.Does not do it all the time, may run for 3 hours with no problem. any ideas? Thanks in advance.

Try a seperate tank if you have access to one. If it still does it look at the fuel pump. If not check the tank and connections.

[Slow and Low]

There should be very little vibration, I would check for something wrapped around an impeller blade


The impeller is clear. No noise until it is put into forward and throttle applied. No vibration wide open. I glued some rubber to the braces and the noise just moves around. Besides, the boat is new and how many dampeners should I have to apply?

[baitsauce]

Details: 1999 175 SJ Ser # OE356256.

Looks like I need to replace the switchboxes for the second time in two years (and about 50 motor hours). I believe the problem is the switchboxes because the motor is acting the same as it did when the first one(s) bit the dust. My question is what is the cause of this? Is there a solution to prevent it from happening again?

Thanks in advance.......

[1sast]

Sir I have a 2003 North River Seahawk with a 4.3 liter Fuel Injected Mercruiser and a Alpha outdrive. My boat recently this year required a pretty constant refill of the gear drive reservoir. It has had to be refilled several times this year. There is no oil in the bilge and the drive does not leak any fluid in the garage. Any thoughts about where to look for the leak??? My motor at the bottom of the bilge has a blue freeze plug that during the winter I take out to drain water from the block. It has now developed a leak from the plug while the motor is operating. I replaced the gasket a few times with no luck. The plug is good and there seems to be no cracking around it. Any thoughts on this??? Thank you very much for your time.

Eric

[Boat Doc']

Details: 1999 175 SJ Ser # OE356256.

Looks like I need to replace the switchboxes for the second time in two years (and about 50 motor hours). I believe the problem is the switchboxes because the motor is acting the same as it did when the first one(s) bit the dust. My question is what is the cause of this? Is there a solution to prevent it from happening again?

Thanks in advance.......
Make sure you have good grounds and the stator tests ok

[Boat Doc']

Sir I have a 2003 North River Seahawk with a 4.3 liter Fuel Injected Mercruiser and a Alpha outdrive. My boat recently this year required a pretty constant refill of the gear drive reservoir. It has had to be refilled several times this year. There is no oil in the bilge and the drive does not leak any fluid in the garage. Any thoughts about where to look for the leak??? My motor at the bottom of the bilge has a blue freeze plug that during the winter I take out to drain water from the block. It has now developed a leak from the plug while the motor is operating. I replaced the gasket a few times with no luck. The plug is good and there seems to be no cracking around it. Any thoughts on this??? Thank you very much for your time.

Eric
I would pull the drive and check for oil in the bellows and replace the necessary seals if there is. If the gasket and plug are intact then the housing may be cracked. Would have to remove it to see

[hogslayer2002]

Coils and switch boxes would typically affect individual cylinders not all of them. To test the stator you would need to remove the flywheel.
Boat Doc.
As you suggested above I have pulled off the flywheel and checked the stator. It seems from what I can tell that the stator might have been replaced once before. The plastic coating on the stator is red colored and does not have any indications on it that it might have been exposed to heat or other damage. Do you believe it could still be faulty? I have tried to locate a replacement stator but Mercury says that I need to know the number that is “stamped” into the existing one in order for them to tell me the correct replacement to order. I have looked and looked for some kind of number but I don’t see one on this red colored stator. Any advice on how to proceed? I have attached photos if it helps.

Thanks
HS

[Tinman]

I have developed a fast-idle problem on my 1996 Johnson 88 hp.

The fast-idle lever on the control box seems very loose, and it hardly boosts the idle speed at all. When I remove the motor cover and work the fast-idle lever, I can see that it barely moves the throttle linkage, and barely revs the engine. The fast-idle lever seems completely loose in the first 40 degrees of travel. In the last 5 degrees it finally gets a bit of tension and moves the linkage.

All was working fine last week and the fast-idle lever boosted rpm quite a bit, as it always had. This is a sudden change. I also notice that the engine sometimes seems to take a long time to idle down from high speed.

Engine model is J88TSLEDR
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/Control_Box_013.JPG

[Wildgoose]

Overheat or oil level the alarm sounds the same. Remove the temp sensor and oil sensor wires one at a time from the junction block and see which one shuts it off. If neither one shuts it off the module is bad. Most likely the float has sunk in the tank. Remove the tank and turn it upside down. If it stops then you will need to replace the tank.
I removed and unplugged both sensors, turned the tank over and still a steady alarm. It looks like the module. New question: Is the module location at the lower rear starboard, a box about 2x3 inch? What else is controled in that module or is it alarm only? Other than the obvious lack of alarm alert, is it harmfull to run short periods. Also is there any other tests to confirm its failure? Tips on changing out and source (S.M.?) for a replacement would be appreciated.

Thanks
John

[toddsnorthriver]

I have a ez loadertrailer with hydraulic surge drum brakes. I noticed that the reservoir was half empty so I filled it back up. I readjusted the brakes and it seem to work better. I was going to flush the brake system and replace with new fluid so I grabbed a 2x4 to move the cyclinder back and forth to so how easy this prodject would be. I can easily move it with one hand and the piece of wood. Is this normal or is there something wrong? I have no fluid leaks. Thanks, Todd

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc.
As you suggested above I have pulled off the flywheel and checked the stator. It seems from what I can tell that the stator might have been replaced once before. The plastic coating on the stator is red colored and does not have any indications on it that it might have been exposed to heat or other damage. Do you believe it could still be faulty? I have tried to locate a replacement stator but Mercury says that I need to know the number that is “stamped” into the existing one in order for them to tell me the correct replacement to order. I have looked and looked for some kind of number but I don’t see one on this red colored stator. Any advice on how to proceed? I have attached photos if it helps.

Thanks
HS

The red stator is the newest one and rarely fails. Probably need to look for a problem elsewhere

[Boat Doc']

I have developed a fast-idle problem on my 1996 Johnson 88 hp.

The fast-idle lever on the control box seems very loose, and it hardly boosts the idle speed at all. When I remove the motor cover and work the fast-idle lever, I can see that it barely moves the throttle linkage, and barely revs the engine. The fast-idle lever seems completely loose in the first 40 degrees of travel. In the last 5 degrees it finally gets a bit of tension and moves the linkage.

All was working fine last week and the fast-idle lever boosted rpm quite a bit, as it always had. This is a sudden change. I also notice that the engine sometimes seems to take a long time to idle down from high speed.

Engine model is J88TSLEDR
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/Control_Box_013.JPG

Remove the lower control box cover and verify the throttle arm moves with little slop. I would guess the control cable is stiff and needs replaced

[Boat Doc']

I have a ez loadertrailer with hydraulic surge drum brakes. I noticed that the reservoir was half empty so I filled it back up. I readjusted the brakes and it seem to work better. I was going to flush the brake system and replace with new fluid so I grabbed a 2x4 to move the cyclinder back and forth to so how easy this prodject would be. I can easily move it with one hand and the piece of wood. Is this normal or is there something wrong? I have no fluid leaks. Thanks, Todd

I would say it's normal

[toddsnorthriver]

I would say it's normal


I just thought that it would move a little bit harder because I can litterly move it with one hand, and that is even before cracking the bleeder on the brake assembly. Would you know where I could get the black cap that goes on the reservoir as I have one that is cracked and in need of a replacement. Thanks, Todd

[hogslayer2002]

The red stator is the newest one and rarely fails. Probably need to look for a problem elsewhere
OK, any suggestion where I might start? As I stated before it seems to be heat related and only seems to happen when I am running the engine at for a good long time and getting it nice and warm. Once the problem starts I am only able to run the motor under about 2500rpm and any more than that causes the engine to stall and die. It will start back up and run slow but that is about it. Once I let it cool down (about an hour) it is fine and will run perfectly. I had it to a shop but they could not recreate the problem. If it is not the stator where else should I be looking.
thanks
HS

[Boat Doc']

I just thought that it would move a little bit harder because I can litterly move it with one hand, and that is even before cracking the bleeder on the brake assembly. Would you know where I could get the black cap that goes on the reservoir as I have one that is cracked and in need of a replacement. Thanks, Todd

If it moves that easy the shock needs replaced and or the spring. Since it's that worn you may want to replace the assy. Auto wheel or Six Robles would be 2 sources

[Boat Doc']

OK, any suggestion where I might start? As I stated before it seems to be heat related and only seems to happen when I am running the engine at for a good long time and getting it nice and warm. Once the problem starts I am only able to run the motor under about 2500rpm and any more than that causes the engine to stall and die. It will start back up and run slow but that is about it. Once I let it cool down (about an hour) it is fine and will run perfectly. I had it to a shop but they could not recreate the problem. If it is not the stator where else should I be looking.
thanks
HS
Start by measuring voltage to ignition components when it runs good then checking it again when it runs bad. If the voltage stays the same then you may have a fuel issue. If it was fuel you should be able to pump the primer bulb and have the rpm increase when it fails.

[toddsnorthriver]

If it moves that easy the shock needs replaced and or the spring. Since it's that worn you may want to replace the assy. Auto wheel or Six Robles would be 2 sources


I tried all over the greater portland area today to find a assembly and no one not even EZloader in spokane had one, they don't use atwood any longer or at least that one. Everyone I spoke to mentioned Potter Webster on Six Robbles. They were all on back order and didn
t know when or if a shipment would come in. Something must be wrong with the product. Six Robles in Tukwila had one left so I jumped on it. Should get it tomorrow. Anything special I need to know about installing a new calipure assembly, bleeding procedures, fill procedures, bench prep before installing it? Is there a way to get all the old brake fluid out of the lines before having to pump it through with the new calipure? Thanks,Todd

[still floatin]

Boat Doc,
We have a 06 mercury saltwater series 4 stroke.
Is 1100 dollars excessive for our 200 hour service. water pump, internal zincs, oil change, spark plugs, water separator.
We just paid it I am wondering if this is normal and necessary to keep our 5 year mercury warranty valid?
Seems like a lot of money to me.

[Boat Doc']

I tried all over the greater portland area today to find a assembly and no one not even EZloader in spokane had one, they don't use atwood any longer or at least that one. Everyone I spoke to mentioned Potter Webster on Six Robbles. They were all on back order and didn
t know when or if a shipment would come in. Something must be wrong with the product. Six Robles in Tukwila had one left so I jumped on it. Should get it tomorrow. Anything special I need to know about installing a new calipure assembly, bleeding procedures, fill procedures, bench prep before installing it? Is there a way to get all the old brake fluid out of the lines before having to pump it through with the new calipure? Thanks,Todd

Bleed it starting at the wheel the farthest away from the actuater, keep bleeding until you get fresh fluid out of the bleeder. Don't let the master cylinder get empty or else you have to start over. It will require 2 people 1 to pump up the clylinder and the other to open the bleeder while under pressure

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc,
We have a 06 mercury saltwater series 4 stroke.
Is 1100 dollars excessive for our 200 hour service. water pump, internal zincs, oil change, spark plugs, water separator.
We just paid it I am wondering if this is normal and necessary to keep our 5 year mercury warranty valid?
Seems like a lot of money to me.

Seems like a lot, you need to maintain it yourself or professionally for the warranty.

[toddsnorthriver]

Bleed it starting at the wheel the farthest away from the actuater, keep bleeding until you get fresh fluid out of the bleeder. Don't let the master cylinder get empty or else you have to start over. It will require 2 people 1 to pump up the clylinder and the other to open the bleeder while under pressure


OK got them bleed and adjusted, turned adjuster so wheel wouldn't move by hand then loosened 12 clicks, buttoned it up took it for a drive and smoked the brakes in a little less than a mile. brought it back home, let it cool, heat cracked the oil bath plastic cover. I then jacked up the front axle and couldn't move either tire. Took the wheels off and drained the oil in the hubs and pulled them off. Adjusted them down to the least possible point and they still drag very bad when I put the drum back on. Now what? I'm guessing wheel cyclinder? So..... I took the brake shoes off and put a dowl into the wheel cyclinder and tried to push it back in. No go! Push a little harder and it gives a little, more like brakes free, but just a little. I'm guessing at this point the cyclinders are bad and not releasing pressure after the brakes are applied. What do you think? Thanks,Todd

[Captain 40]

Hi Boat Doc,

I have a questions regarding batteries and switches. I have a Perko switch (OFF-1-BOTH-2) and two batteries in my 2008 Alumaweld Stryker, one bigger one for the Optimax, and a smaller one as the auxiliary. When I’m running the main motor (Optimax) which setting should it be on, 1 or BOTH? If I’m trolling with my Pro Kicker (with electric start and alternator), what setting should I have it set at? And if I’m on anchor all day just running just the fish finder and radio, should it just be on setting 2? If it helps your shop installed the duel battery and switch for me. The reason I’m asking is a recent thread on IFISH regarding electrical management provided the below statement and it seems confusing to me.

“If you currently have a single OFF-1-Both-2 switch, keep in mind that the "both" is for emergencies only. Also keep in mind that you need to alternate between 1 and 2 every trip, otherwise each battery is not getting charged. Most times in this situation their are house draws that are coming off of one battery and not the other, so if you are running on 1 as a start, and their are draws off 2, then that battery is always going to be draining, regardless if you are using #1 to start or #2 to start”

I have never had a battery issue the way I have run…never a dead battery, I run the main motor and kicker on BOTH and on anchor I set it to 2. Sorry for the long winded post. Any clarification on this issue would be appreciated. Thanks.

Keith

[sharky3]

hello, i desperately need help with needles/seats. i have an 88 4.0 liter v8 2 stroke 300hp johnson. i converted to electric fuel pump because that series is infamous for VRO issues. engine runs great in every area but one. needle/seats (8 of them)
with the engine not running i can dial the fuel pressure regulator up to 6 psi and all the needle/seats hold without any problem, HOWEVER, when i take her out to the water,invariably one of them will let go and have raw gas going everywhere, even if i dial the regulator down to 4 psi.
MY QUESTION; is there anywhere that i can buy neeles and seats that will stand up under vibration to fit my motor?
im running a holley red pump with a regulator. floats all good, needle/seats all fresh.
any help will mean a great deal to me.

[Boat Doc']

OK got them bleed and adjusted, turned adjuster so wheel wouldn't move by hand then loosened 12 clicks, buttoned it up took it for a drive and smoked the brakes in a little less than a mile. brought it back home, let it cool, heat cracked the oil bath plastic cover. I then jacked up the front axle and couldn't move either tire. Took the wheels off and drained the oil in the hubs and pulled them off. Adjusted them down to the least possible point and they still drag very bad when I put the drum back on. Now what? I'm guessing wheel cyclinder? So..... I took the brake shoes off and put a dowl into the wheel cyclinder and tried to push it back in. No go! Push a little harder and it gives a little, more like brakes free, but just a little. I'm guessing at this point the cyclinders are bad and not releasing pressure after the brakes are applied. What do you think? Thanks,Todd

Peel the seal away from the wheel cylinder and if it's rusty you should replace them. You may want to replace the backing plates as an assy and turn the drums to remove glaze and make sure they are round

[Boat Doc']

Hi Boat Doc,

I have a questions regarding batteries and switches. I have a Perko switch (OFF-1-BOTH-2) and two batteries in my 2008 Alumaweld Stryker, one bigger one for the Optimax, and a smaller one as the auxiliary. When I’m running the main motor (Optimax) which setting should it be on, 1 or BOTH? If I’m trolling with my Pro Kicker (with electric start and alternator), what setting should I have it set at? And if I’m on anchor all day just running just the fish finder and radio, should it just be on setting 2? If it helps your shop installed the duel battery and switch for me. The reason I’m asking is a recent thread on IFISH regarding electrical management provided the below statement and it seems confusing to me.

“If you currently have a single OFF-1-Both-2 switch, keep in mind that the "both" is for emergencies only. Also keep in mind that you need to alternate between 1 and 2 every trip, otherwise each battery is not getting charged. Most times in this situation their are house draws that are coming off of one battery and not the other, so if you are running on 1 as a start, and their are draws off 2, then that battery is always going to be draining, regardless if you are using #1 to start or #2 to start”

I have never had a battery issue the way I have run…never a dead battery, I run the main motor and kicker on BOTH and on anchor I set it to 2. Sorry for the long winded post. Any clarification on this issue would be appreciated. Thanks.

Keith


Disregard that post. The way yoiu are doing it is fine

[Boat Doc']

hello, i desperately need help with needles/seats. i have an 88 4.0 liter v8 2 stroke 300hp johnson. i converted to electric fuel pump because that series is infamous for VRO issues. engine runs great in every area but one. needle/seats (8 of them)
with the engine not running i can dial the fuel pressure regulator up to 6 psi and all the needle/seats hold without any problem, HOWEVER, when i take her out to the water,invariably one of them will let go and have raw gas going everywhere, even if i dial the regulator down to 4 psi.
MY QUESTION; is there anywhere that i can buy neeles and seats that will stand up under vibration to fit my motor?
im running a holley red pump with a regulator. floats all good, needle/seats all fresh.
any help will mean a great deal to me.

I think you may have a float issue, or missing baffle if they use them. Only other thing could be debris in the needles from deterioration of the fuel lines? Take a fuel sample from the line that attaches to the carb and see if any debris comes out.

[Ben Hur]

I have a 95 Seadoo GTX with almost no spark and now no spark to the plugs. It has the Rotax engine about 780 cc. The wires and plugs are new what do I check next and how?:bearhug:

[sharky3]

fuel system all new when converted. new lines, new tanks,(built them myself) new water sep filter, as well as a 2 particle filters..etc . i did take a sample of the fuel, a gallon went thru the fine mesh (wifes panty hose) and left nothing at all in the screen.
all floats check good. my real suspicion is vibration. my starbord bank reads 90 -92 psi, my port bank reads 95-100.
because of the way it fires it vibrates pretty strong.
i dont really know why the comp. numbers came out that way. i can usually get them all very close.
there are 2 of the needles that seem to let go more often than the other 6. so i will replace those today, even tho they have less than 1 season on them.
MAYBE i just got 2 bad ones out of the 8?
once again ;thanks for the help.
becoming more desperate by the day...lol

[sharky3]

update; finally solved it. 2 bad needle/seat combo's
you wouldnt think that new needle/seat combo's would be bad but i have proof. maybe they were sitting on the shelf too long?

[mrprincedog]

Hi, Boat Doc, I hope you can help, I'm at my wits end.

I have a 96 Thunder Jet with an efi 351. My problem is the fuel pump and ignition coil are getting no power at all. Ran thru motor with an electrical tester and everything else (starter, alternator, ect.) has power. Turn key and motor turns over just fine, of course doesn't start.

I 'hot wired' the ignition coil module with direct power and it fires right up and runs no problem. As soon as juice is put to module you can hear the fuel pump pressure up and she fires right up. (What I'm calling the ignition coil module is the 3 wire plug-in that sits just to the side of the coil, by putting a hot line clip on the top wire.)

There are three circuit breakers on the rear of the motor. The lower one with the red dot '40' on it has power to it. The upper two, one with red 20 and other with red 12 1/2 both have no power to them at all.

All I could figure is one or both of the (I think they're relays) directly underneath the above mentioned red dotted circuits are bad.

Went to auto parts store and they only had one in stock. I bought it and replaced both of the relays (one at a time) and still no start with it in either possition.

Do both of these relays need to be replaced at the same time, or could there be some other electrical problem?

Thank you very much for any help on this. Boat shop is 6 weeks out and fish are here, I'm in panic mode.

[Ajax22]

Hey boat doc, were can i find a shaft collar for a
1972 80hp mercury outboard and how much are they

[Boat Doc']

I have a 95 Seadoo GTX with almost no spark and now no spark to the plugs. It has the Rotax engine about 780 cc. The wires and plugs are new what do I check next and how?:bearhug:

Check the lanyard switch by unplugging it. If you still have a problem you would need a manual. I have very little knowledge of them.

[Boat Doc']

[QUOTE=sharky3;2692379]update; finally solved it. 2 bad needle/seat combo's
you wouldnt think that new needle/seat combo's would be bad but i have proof. maybe they were sitting on the shelf too long?[/QUOT

Or the alcohol got to them

[Boat Doc']

Hey boat doc, were can i find a shaft collar for a
1972 80hp mercury outboard and how much are they

Not familiar with the term shaft collar?

[Boat Doc']

Hi, Boat Doc, I hope you can help, I'm at my wits end.

I have a 96 Thunder Jet with an efi 351. My problem is the fuel pump and ignition coil are getting no power at all. Ran thru motor with an electrical tester and everything else (starter, alternator, ect.) has power. Turn key and motor turns over just fine, of course doesn't start.

I 'hot wired' the ignition coil module with direct power and it fires right up and runs no problem. As soon as juice is put to module you can hear the fuel pump pressure up and she fires right up. (What I'm calling the ignition coil module is the 3 wire plug-in that sits just to the side of the coil, by putting a hot line clip on the top wire.)

There are three circuit breakers on the rear of the motor. The lower one with the red dot '40' on it has power to it. The upper two, one with red 20 and other with red 12 1/2 both have no power to them at all.

All I could figure is one or both of the (I think they're relays) directly underneath the above mentioned red dotted circuits are bad.

Went to auto parts store and they only had one in stock. I bought it and replaced both of the relays (one at a time) and still no start with it in either possition.

Do both of these relays need to be replaced at the same time, or could there be some other electrical problem?

Thank you very much for any help on this. Boat shop is 6 weeks out and fish are here, I'm in panic mode.

Either no power from the key switch or bad main power relay. Check for battery voltage at the main power relay, replace if needed or check power from the key, also unplug the main harness and check the connections.

[Ajax22]

hi boat doc, my buddy has a 1989 115hp merc 2 stroke and he is curious why his motor ran really strong at first then after off the throttle notice that the motor was missing, then when he tried to accelerate the motor wanted to fall on it's face. To add to it he told me that the gas he was using was maybe a year old, could that have anything to do with it? also he shut off the main motor and used the kicker and it ran fine on the same fuel. compression check was done when he got home and all was good there. he also noticed that when he tilted the motor back fuel ran out of the front of the motor, please help.
thanks, ajax22:idea:

[Boat Doc']

hi boat doc, my buddy has a 1989 115hp merc 2 stroke and he is curious why his motor ran really strong at first then after off the throttle notice that the motor was missing, then when he tried to accelerate the motor wanted to fall on it's face. To add to it he told me that the gas he was using was maybe a year old, could that have anything to do with it? also he shut off the main motor and used the kicker and it ran fine on the same fuel. compression check was done when he got home and all was good there. he also noticed that when he tilted the motor back fuel ran out of the front of the motor, please help.
thanks, ajax22:idea:

Check spark, if ok take a fuel sample. It sounds like a fuel issue and the carbs will need to be cleaned and or flushed

[hkbates]

Boat Doc'

Thank you! You helped me a year ago when the black box on the left bank of cylinders went out on my 1998 175XR2 Sportjet. I hope you can help me again. This time I've developed a starting issue. When the key is turned the ECM does not beep. When the engine is stone cold it is hard to start (3 or 4, 5 second tries and maybe a push of the manual enrichment valve). However, when it starts it runs fine all day. When it is warm it also starts fine. Since I don't get the beep at startup I've checked the oil and it is pumping, temperature is also fine. I have an idea of what is wrong but I wanted to check with an expert before I fork over the money for a part.

Any help would again be very much appreciated!

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc'

Thank you! You helped me a year ago when the black box on the left bank of cylinders went out on my 1998 175XR2 Sportjet. I hope you can help me again. This time I've developed a starting issue. When the key is turned the ECM does not beep. When the engine is stone cold it is hard to start (3 or 4, 5 second tries and maybe a push of the manual enrichment valve). However, when it starts it runs fine all day. When it is warm it also starts fine. Since I don't get the beep at startup I've checked the oil and it is pumping, temperature is also fine. I have an idea of what is wrong but I wanted to check with an expert before I fork over the money for a part.

Any help would again be very much appreciated!

Probably either horn or ecm

[deepsix]

Boat Doc,
I have a 1993 mercruiser 4.3l with a factory weber 4brl. This boat runs well but has a random backfire and stumbling when accelerating around 1500-2000 rpm. I also posted in the main repair board. I'll include that post.

I have a 4.3l mercruiser with a factory weber 4 barrel carb. This boat has the thunderbolt IV ignition system. The engine runs good but will have a random backfire at around 1500 rpm under load. The back fire might happen 2 times in a day of running. It sounds like it is through the carb. It only happens while accelerating and the engine seems to stumble a bit at theat RPM. The stumble clears up as the RPM increases.
I have changed plugs, cap, And adjusted the idle mixture settings on the carb. Ran fresh fuel and changed the external fuel filter. I also ran the engine from another fuel tank to eleiminate fuel issues. I still have the problem.
This is a stock engine with about 450hrs. It runs with good oil pressure charging system and the temp looks normal.
Any clues on where to look next?

[mrprincedog]

Either no power from the key switch or bad main power relay. Check for battery voltage at the main power relay, replace if needed or check power from the key, also unplug the main harness and check the connections.

I cant figure out what or where the main power relay is to save my life. All I know about is the two relays at the rear of motor under the breakers. I assume there is power from the key switch since it turns over fine and the main harness looks brand new. Put in a new ICM and no dice.

HELP

Thanks

[Bull Hunter]

Boat Doc,

I have a hard starting problem. I have searched the Boat and Motor Tech section and the boat doc thread and have found some hard starting posts but they are mostly about sport jets. Here is a hard starting problem with a KEM 454 motor. I have tried talking to KEM about it to no avail because the motor is “so old.”

The motor is a 1999 KEM 454. It is fuel injected with the Weber side draft carb. Motor has 2,000 hours according to the hour meter, I know it is a lot of hours but it runs great once started.

To start the motor, I have to basically bump the starter. What I mean by this is that I turn the key to start for 2 to 4 seconds then let it off and get back on it for another 2 to 4 seconds. The amount of times I need to “bump” it varies for no apparent reason. Sometimes it only takes a few times the majority of times it takes about 5 “bumps”, some times it takes quite a few. It doesn’t matter if it is cold, warm or hot (up to running temperature), it is the same each time. If it takes several “bumps” to start, it will usually rev up pretty high (+/- 1500rpm) for a few seconds then work its way back down. It makes me think it is getting too much gas.

The one suggestion I did get from KEM was it might be the oil pressure not coming up since it had so many hours and keeping it from starting. I watch the oil pressure gauge (not knowing if it matters or not) and it seems to come up, without hesitation, to pressure right after I turn the key to start.

I hear the fuel pump start and then stop when I turn the key on so I am pretty sure it is getting fuel. I don’t seem to have any issues with fuel delivery once started.

I have had this issue since 2007. The boat sat dry for 2008 and started right up in 2009…with the required 5 “bumps” (I was amazed…lol).

I don’t know where to look next. Any help on where to look next would be much appreciated!

Thank You In Advance,

Eric

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc,
I have a 1993 mercruiser 4.3l with a factory weber 4brl. This boat runs well but has a random backfire and stumbling when accelerating around 1500-2000 rpm. I also posted in the main repair board. I'll include that post.

I have a 4.3l mercruiser with a factory weber 4 barrel carb. This boat has the thunderbolt IV ignition system. The engine runs good but will have a random backfire at around 1500 rpm under load. The back fire might happen 2 times in a day of running. It sounds like it is through the carb. It only happens while accelerating and the engine seems to stumble a bit at theat RPM. The stumble clears up as the RPM increases.
I have changed plugs, cap, And adjusted the idle mixture settings on the carb. Ran fresh fuel and changed the external fuel filter. I also ran the engine from another fuel tank to eleiminate fuel issues. I still have the problem.
This is a stock engine with about 450hrs. It runs with good oil pressure charging system and the temp looks normal.
Any clues on where to look next?

I would rebuild the carb and pay close attn to the accelerator pump circuit

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc,

I have a hard starting problem. I have searched the Boat and Motor Tech section and the boat doc thread and have found some hard starting posts but they are mostly about sport jets. Here is a hard starting problem with a KEM 454 motor. I have tried talking to KEM about it to no avail because the motor is “so old.”

The motor is a 1999 KEM 454. It is fuel injected with the Weber side draft carb. Motor has 2,000 hours according to the hour meter, I know it is a lot of hours but it runs great once started.

To start the motor, I have to basically bump the starter. What I mean by this is that I turn the key to start for 2 to 4 seconds then let it off and get back on it for another 2 to 4 seconds. The amount of times I need to “bump” it varies for no apparent reason. Sometimes it only takes a few times the majority of times it takes about 5 “bumps”, some times it takes quite a few. It doesn’t matter if it is cold, warm or hot (up to running temperature), it is the same each time. If it takes several “bumps” to start, it will usually rev up pretty high (+/- 1500rpm) for a few seconds then work its way back down. It makes me think it is getting too much gas.

The one suggestion I did get from KEM was it might be the oil pressure not coming up since it had so many hours and keeping it from starting. I watch the oil pressure gauge (not knowing if it matters or not) and it seems to come up, without hesitation, to pressure right after I turn the key to start.

I hear the fuel pump start and then stop when I turn the key on so I am pretty sure it is getting fuel. I don’t seem to have any issues with fuel delivery once started.

I have had this issue since 2007. The boat sat dry for 2008 and started right up in 2009…with the required 5 “bumps” (I was amazed…lol).

I don’t know where to look next. Any help on where to look next would be much appreciated!

Thank You In Advance,

Eric

Need to hook up a fuel pressure gauge to assist in trouble shooting. Problems could be pressure switch, fuel pump or pressure regulater

[Bluknight]

I posted this on the main tech forum but saw this and thought it might be helpful.

I mounted Cannon Mag 5HS on my boat this year and thought I had everything wired up just fine but now I'm wondering.

Both are wired to one battery and that is the only thing that battery is hooked up to.

I have two problems:

1) The auto-up function works sometimes and other times not at all. This is not limited to one side and does not seem to coincide to anything in particular.

2) If I start one down rigger up and it goes auto up and then try to bring the other down rigger up at the same time the first one I started stops working. It's like the second one I start up takes over the power.

Any theories or suggestions?

Thanks

[Boat Doc']

I posted this on the main tech forum but saw this and thought it might be helpful.

I mounted Cannon Mag 5HS on my boat this year and thought I had everything wired up just fine but now I'm wondering.

Both are wired to one battery and that is the only thing that battery is hooked up to.

I have two problems:

1) The auto-up function works sometimes and other times not at all. This is not limited to one side and does not seem to coincide to anything in particular.

2) If I start one down rigger up and it goes auto up and then try to bring the other down rigger up at the same time the first one I started stops working. It's like the second one I start up takes over the power.

Any theories or suggestions?

Thanks

Battery size, battery condition, wire size in relation to distance to battery, clean and tight connections, and finally that the battery is hooked to the main engine so it charges. It sounds like the voltage is dropping by any or all of the mentioned items

[HntnFsh]

Hello Doc,

I replaced the throttle cable on my 1998 175 SJ awhile back.
I'm only running 4700 rpm at wot.

Is there adjustment on there to give me the proper rpm.

Thanks Doc,Once again I appreciate your help.

HntnFsh

[Boat Doc']

Hello Doc,

I replaced the throttle cable on my 1998 175 SJ awhile back.
I'm only running 4700 rpm at wot.

Is there adjustment on there to give me the proper rpm.

Thanks Doc,Once again I appreciate your help.

HntnFsh

Make sure the cable is adjusted against the idle stop with the control at idle. Only other thing is it may be the wrong cable

[Audball]

Whats up Doc?
I have a 2000 Evinrude 9.9 4 stroke that I had extensive work done on about a year ago (new module, tune-up, carb rebuild) at a professional boat repair shop. Probably have 100 hours of trolling on it since then.
Heres the issue. It starts up fine and will run perfectly for the first few minutes, then it's as though it's running with the choke on. If you crank the handle for more speed it will not go any faster than about 2 mph. If you turn the motor off, and then immediately restart it, you can go 20 mph (14' light aluminum boat). However, if you slow back down to 2 mph or so, it will once again not go above 2 mph, regardless of how far you turn the handle. I first noticed this about 6 months ago, but it rarely happened. Now it happens all the time.

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Audball:)

[Boat Doc']

Whats up Doc?
I have a 2000 Evinrude 9.9 4 stroke that I had extensive work done on about a year ago (new module, tune-up, carb rebuild) at a professional boat repair shop. Probably have 100 hours of trolling on it since then.
Heres the issue. It starts up fine and will run perfectly for the first few minutes, then it's as though it's running with the choke on. If you crank the handle for more speed it will not go any faster than about 2 mph. If you turn the motor off, and then immediately restart it, you can go 20 mph (14' light aluminum boat). However, if you slow back down to 2 mph or so, it will once again not go above 2 mph, regardless of how far you turn the handle. I first noticed this about 6 months ago, but it rarely happened. Now it happens all the time.

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Audball:)

Assuming its running rich I would replace the needle and seat

[fisher guy]

Boat Doc,

My fishing partner has a super vee and the livewell pump isn't working. The problem is we can't locate the pump. Can you tell me where it's located so we don't have to pull up the wrong floor panel.

[Ajax22]

Hi boat doc, i just bought a project, it's a 25 hp
johnson seahorse, the model# is rd-11 and the serial# is 909798
would you be able to tell me what the year of this motor is and gas to oil ratio? Thanks ajax22.

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc,

My fishing partner has a super vee and the livewell pump isn't working. The problem is we can't locate the pump. Can you tell me where it's located so we don't have to pull up the wrong floor panel.

Should be in the transom box, follow the hose back and you should see it

[Boat Doc']

Hi boat doc, i just bought a project, it's a 25 hp
johnson seahorse, the model# is rd-11 and the serial# is 909798
would you be able to tell me what the year of this motor is and gas to oil ratio? Thanks ajax22.

Am told 1951, mix at 50:1

[Ajax22]

Am told 1951, mix at 50:1
would anybody in town have a repair manual

[Boat Doc']

would anybody in town have a repair manual

Don't think you will find one. Might try on line. Good luck

[esoj]

Doc, as I said on the other forum I replaced my starter motor on my "92" 90hspwer mercury, as I was putting the cover back on the solenoids and tucking the wires in "poof" something got hot so I took the cover back off and straiten some wires and replaced the cover and started the motor fine, but when I go to power trim the motor it makes a weak noice and doesn't go up or down. PLEAS ADVISE! Thank You!!!!!

[Boat Doc']

Doc, as I said on the other forum I replaced my starter motor on my "92" 90hspwer mercury, as I was putting the cover back on the solenoids and tucking the wires in "poof" something got hot so I took the cover back off and straiten some wires and replaced the cover and started the motor fine, but when I go to power trim the motor it makes a weak noice and doesn't go up or down. PLEAS ADVISE! Thank You!!!!!
Verify the wires are hooked up correctly that you removed. After that locate the trim pump wires and make sure they are hooked up and the connections are tight. Also make sure the battery cables are tight. Finally find out what went poof and repair or replace it

[esoj]

Verify the wires are hooked up correctly that you removed. After that locate the trim pump wires and make sure they are hooked up and the connections are tight. Also make sure the battery cables are tight. Finally find out what went poof and repair or replace it
Part of the coating was missing on the black wire that goes to the power lift and the fuse looks good maybe I should chang it anyway? When I turn the key I hear a motor but much quieter than the reguler power lift.

[Riverteeth]

Boat Doc:

I have a 1995 200hp Yamaha jet. Windshield boat, so the control box/ignition is up front. I've had some problems starting it, but I have figured out that when I use the manual choke on the engine itself, it fires right up. So that tells me something is funky with the remote choke (the small lever right under the key, which one lifts up to activate while turing over the motor).

So can this remote choke wear out? Any other ideas what might be going on? Thanks!

[Maddie'sDaddy]

Hey Doc


I got a New 60 HP 4 stroke Merc and at times its sounds like its got a squeaky belt(Mostly when pulling anchor) not severe but noticeable, I don't notice it at high RPMs Is this normal or should I talk to The seller (You guys:))as its still under warranty?


Thanks MD

[Salemsled]

Either no power from the key switch or bad main power relay. Check for battery voltage at the main power relay, replace if needed or check power from the key, also unplug the main harness and check the connections.

Hey Boat Doc,
I am experiencing the same problem.
Who has a good reference manual for the Redline 351 EFI engine.

Where is the main power relay?

[Salemsled]

Hi, Boat Doc, I hope you can help, I'm at my wits end.

I have a 96 Thunder Jet with an efi 351. My problem is the fuel pump and ignition coil are getting no power at all. Ran thru motor with an electrical tester and everything else (starter, alternator, ect.) has power. Turn key and motor turns over just fine, of course doesn't start.

I 'hot wired' the ignition coil module with direct power and it fires right up and runs no problem. As soon as juice is put to module you can hear the fuel pump pressure up and she fires right up. (What I'm calling the ignition coil module is the 3 wire plug-in that sits just to the side of the coil, by putting a hot line clip on the top wire.)

There are three circuit breakers on the rear of the motor. The lower one with the red dot '40' on it has power to it. The upper two, one with red 20 and other with red 12 1/2 both have no power to them at all.

All I could figure is one or both of the (I think they're relays) directly underneath the above mentioned red dotted circuits are bad.

Went to auto parts store and they only had one in stock. I bought it and replaced both of the relays (one at a time) and still no start with it in either possition.

Do both of these relays need to be replaced at the same time, or could there be some other electrical problem?

Thank you very much for any help on this. Boat shop is 6 weeks out and fish are here, I'm in panic mode.

mrprincedog,

My 2001 with the 351 EFI is having a similar problem.
Started just fine when launching of trailer, Then stopped at dock and would not start.
Got boat back to shop and checked for spark, tested good.
attempted to start, and it fired up.

Now I can't really test what is wrong because it is working, and I dont want to take the boat out farther than I can paddle.:pray:

Hopefully Boat doc will keep this thread moving and we can get to the root of the problem.

[Boat Doc']

Part of the coating was missing on the black wire that goes to the power lift and the fuse looks good maybe I should chang it anyway? When I turn the key I hear a motor but much quieter than the reguler power lift.

It may be that the black wire is broke. You need to fix it and make sure something still isn't shorted

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc:

I have a 1995 200hp Yamaha jet. Windshield boat, so the control box/ignition is up front. I've had some problems starting it, but I have figured out that when I use the manual choke on the engine itself, it fires right up. So that tells me something is funky with the remote choke (the small lever right under the key, which one lifts up to activate while turing over the motor).

So can this remote choke wear out? Any other ideas what might be going on? Thanks!

Listen for the choke solenoid to click with the key on. Chances are it's not. Need to find out why. First guess would be switch or wiring

[Boat Doc']

Hey Doc


I got a New 60 HP 4 stroke Merc and at times its sounds like its got a squeaky belt(Mostly when pulling anchor) not severe but noticeable, I don't notice it at high RPMs Is this normal or should I talk to The seller (You guys:))as its still under warranty?


Thanks MD

Probably normal, we can check it out if you want. Give us a call to schedule.

[Boat Doc']

mrprincedog,

My 2001 with the 351 EFI is having a similar problem.
Started just fine when launching of trailer, Then stopped at dock and would not start.
Got boat back to shop and checked for spark, tested good.
attempted to start, and it fired up.

Now I can't really test what is wrong because it is working, and I dont want to take the boat out farther than I can paddle.:pray:

Hopefully Boat doc will keep this thread moving and we can get to the root of the problem.

Most common problem is the engine harness plug from the dash. Puill it apart and spread/clean the contacts.

[Ajax22]

Hi boat doc, just wondering if i should put my primer bulb for the gas tank
near the gas tank or can i move it closer to the motor or does it even matter?

[Boat Doc']

Hi boat doc, just wondering if i should put my primer bulb for the gas tank
near the gas tank or can i move it closer to the motor or does it even matter?

Doesn't matter, whatever is most convenient

[Salemsled]

Most common problem is the engine harness plug from the dash. Puill it apart and spread/clean the contacts.

Hey Boat Doc,
The Large Solenoid that is mounted to the engine block near ECM panel is only mounted with one bolt and is showing quite a bit of rust. Just on that one mounting bolt.

This is a four post solenoid/relay two large posts two small posts. Approximatly the size of a salmon egg jar.

Is this large solenoid using the block for ground source?

This looks like the most likely suspect for intermittent ground fault.

Thanks for your help.

[adobe wall]

2002 Merc 90/65 Jet. After a water pump impeller change last winter the impeller disintegrated this week. I lost 3 of the arms on the impeller and can't account for them. I was able to see up the water passage from the water pump and didn't see anything there.

Swapped the impeller, no issues there, but restarted the motor and still don't have a telltale water stream. So I reckon I need to disassemble again and work on locating those three pieces or what remains of them. Any suggestions on how to do this?

tia, aw

[HntnFsh]

2002 Merc 90/65 Jet. After a water pump impeller change last winter the impeller disintegrated this week. I lost 3 of the arms on the impeller and can't account for them. I was able to see up the water passage from the water pump and didn't see anything there.

Swapped the impeller, no issues there, but restarted the motor and still don't have a telltale water stream. So I reckon I need to disassemble again and work on locating those three pieces or what remains of them. Any suggestions on how to do this?

tia, aw

Did you check to make sure the pee hole tself isnt plugged,first?

[adobe wall]

Did you check to make sure the pee hole tself isnt plugged,first?


You can bet I will :D

The three pieces that are missing, I gotta think they ended up somewhere though, and they're each about as big as my thumb.

aw

[Boat Doc']

Hey Boat Doc,
The Large Solenoid that is mounted to the engine block near ECM panel is only mounted with one bolt and is showing quite a bit of rust. Just on that one mounting bolt.

This is a four post solenoid/relay two large posts two small posts. Approximatly the size of a salmon egg jar.

Is this large solenoid using the block for ground source?

This looks like the most likely suspect for intermittent ground fault.

Thanks for your help.

If one of the small posts doesn't have a ground wire attached then it uses the bracket for ground

[Boat Doc']

2002 Merc 90/65 Jet. After a water pump impeller change last winter the impeller disintegrated this week. I lost 3 of the arms on the impeller and can't account for them. I was able to see up the water passage from the water pump and didn't see anything there.

Swapped the impeller, no issues there, but restarted the motor and still don't have a telltale water stream. So I reckon I need to disassemble again and work on locating those three pieces or what remains of them. Any suggestions on how to do this?

tia, aw

If you are blowing air out of the pee hole then you need to find the water restriction.If you don't feel anything coming out then the pee hole is likely plugged by sand or silt and needs to be unplugged. Normally the old impeller pieces get stuck behind the thermostat or they blow out the exhaust without causing any problems

[esoj]

It may be that the black wire is broke. You need to fix it and make sure something still isn't shortedBoat Doc, I had the black wire (ground) that came from the power lift hooked to the wrong lead! Thanks For Your Input!!!!!!

[dutch]

Hi Boat Doc:

I have a 08 NR Trapper with a 5.7L inboard with a 3 stage Marine Power Pump... A friend of mine took his outboard pump to a mechanic and he suggested filing points on the intake grate to improve performance. What is your opinion, is it worth doing? Pros, cons? Will it improve bottom end and top end? Your input is always appreciated. Thanks DL

[adobe wall]

If you are blowing air out of the pee hole then you need to find the water restriction.If you don't feel anything coming out then the pee hole is likely plugged by sand or silt and needs to be unplugged. Normally the old impeller pieces get stuck behind the thermostat or they blow out the exhaust without causing any problems


Pulled the pee tube and it had a pretty good chunk of rubber in it. Hope that is it- but if not, should I pull the thermostat next and check behind it? Where is the thermostat located if I need to do this?

thanks again
aw

[Boat Doc']

Hi Boat Doc:

I have a 08 NR Trapper with a 5.7L inboard with a 3 stage Marine Power Pump... A friend of mine took his outboard pump to a mechanic and he suggested filing points on the intake grate to improve performance. What is your opinion, is it worth doing? Pros, cons? Will it improve bottom end and top end? Your input is always appreciated. Thanks DL

I think that there is plenty of water getting thru the grate without any mods,. There is no down side and it may help bottom end performance. If you decide to do it let me know how it works, we have never done it.

[Boat Doc']

Pulled the pee tube and it had a pretty good chunk of rubber in it. Hope that is it- but if not, should I pull the thermostat next and check behind it? Where is the thermostat located if I need to do this?

thanks again
aw

Thermostat is located in the top rear water jacket, if you take it out to inspect you may need a gasket. If it's running at normal temperature you shouldn't need to remove it

[Homer]

Boat Doc,

I have an 89 60Hp merc. Wanted to know what you think about adding a fuel/water seperator. Worth it? Does it change the fuel line pressure enough to cause problems?

Thanks
El Kabong

[ 12-04-2003, 02:49 PM: Message edited by: El-Kabong ]

Boat Doc,

I also have a mid 80's 8hp merc. what was the answer to this ? and what size merv filter should I use?

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc,

I also have a mid 80's 8hp merc. what was the answer to this ? and what size merv filter should I use?

Fuel water seperaters should be used on any application that doesn't already have one in the engine compartment- yours does not. Mercury only offers one size

[Salemsled]

[QUOTE=mrprincedog;2693677]Hi, Boat Doc, I hope you can help, I'm at my wits end.

I have a 96 Thunder Jet with an efi 351. My problem is the fuel pump and ignition coil are getting no power at all. Ran thru motor with an electrical tester and everything else (starter, alternator, ect.) has power. Turn key and motor turns over just fine, of course doesn't start.

mrprincedog,

Spent a few evenings after work troubleshooting boat and this is what I found to be the culprit for "No Start"

On the back of my engine is ECM /relay panel. ( big panel with resettable breakers, relays and ECM board) The 12.5 amp resettable breaker is my fuel/ignition circuit.

My breaker looked as if it was not tripped (Popped out) but it had been.
Removed breaker and discovered that reset button would not move, as if glued or fused closed.

Theory on bad breaker;
Because of low battery voltage prior to no start, (Batteries are over 4 years old.)
During Engine starting attempt, amp need to increase across 12.5 amp fuel pump circuit. Breaker did not seem to sit in panel very well and was not able to "trip"/ release when overheated.

Breaker cooked itself.

When boat would not start and after I used kicker to get boat back on trailer, I did wiggle and pry breaker. (and every other wire in the engine compartment) Boat did start after I fiddled around with suspect breaker.

I hope this helps with your problem

[igottafish]

Hi Doc
I have a 1978 runabout with a 302 ford in and out. It runs ok 3/4 throttle but when i give it any more it starts backfiring, seems to backfire even more when warmed up.could it be the Vacum advance and how do you check ,, its centrificul vacumn.:excited:
Thanks Chris..

[Boat Doc']

Hi Doc
I have a 1978 runabout with a 302 ford in and out. It runs ok 3/4 throttle but when i give it any more it starts backfiring, seems to backfire even more when warmed up.could it be the Vacum advance and how do you check ,, its centrificul vacumn.:excited:
Thanks Chris..

Look for the timing to increase by about 18 degrees from base setting at about 2500 rpm. More likely causes would be points or condenser, dirty distributor cap, low voltage to coil, fuel restriction or carb issue. You might also try disconnecting the shift interrupt switch temporarily.

[Ajax22]

hey boat doc,
I bought a 1951 rd-11 25hp johnson seahorse, i'm replacing the head gasket and i don't have the service manual yet, so could you tell me what the torque specs would be for the cylinder head?

[Boat Doc']

hey boat doc,
I bought a 1951 rd-11 25hp johnson seahorse, i'm replacing the head gasket and i don't have the service manual yet, so could you tell me what the torque specs would be for the cylinder head?

If it doesn't say on the head I would have to refer you to Harveys or Oregon City Marine

[Ajax22]

If it doesn't say on the head I would have to refer you to Harveys or Oregon City Marine

were would it say on the head?

[Boat Doc']

were would it say on the head?

Somewhere on the back

[Trollin]

Hey Doc,

My 8 hp Yamaha power tilt and electric start motor has no electrical power to it. Wont tilt or turn over. There are two fuses one inside the cowling 10amp and one by the perko switch 20 amp. both fuses were blown I replaced them both and still no power. The Tr-one also has no power, everything else on the boat works fine? Any ideas?

Thanks,
Dan

[Ajax22]

Somewhere on the back
i found the service manual for this motor and it told me the torque specs
were 5-7 ft. lbs. does that seam to little?

[Maddie'sDaddy]

Hey doc

I have a 08 Smokercraft Osprey DLX 17' with a 4 stroke 60 on it and if I get three or more adults in it along with my 8hp 4 stroke kicker it has a hard time getting on plane, is this just a classic case of being underpowered ? and is there anything that might help me to get better hole shot performance as in hydrafoil or dol fin , prop .....?



Thanks MD

[Boat Doc']

Hey Doc,

My 8 hp Yamaha power tilt and electric start motor has no electrical power to it. Wont tilt or turn over. There are two fuses one inside the cowling 10amp and one by the perko switch 20 amp. both fuses were blown I replaced them both and still no power. The Tr-one also has no power, everything else on the boat works fine? Any ideas?

Thanks,
Dan

Possibly a battery cable not hooked up. Or a bad or broken cable between the battery and any terminal blocks.

[Boat Doc']

i found the service manual for this motor and it told me the torque specs
were 5-7 ft. lbs. does that seam to little?

Sounds about right for a 1/4 or 5/16 bolt.

[Boat Doc']

Hey doc

I have a 08 Smokercraft Osprey DLX 17' with a 4 stroke 60 on it and if I get three or more adults in it along with my 8hp 4 stroke kicker it has a hard time getting on plane, is this just a classic case of being underpowered ? and is there anything that might help me to get better hole shot performance as in hydrafoil or dol fin , prop .....?



Thanks MD

Assuming you are running at or near sea level I would go down an inch or two in pitch and install a doel fin or hydro foil.

[Ajax22]

Sounds about right for a 1/4 or 5/16 bolt.
the head bolts are 1/2 inch how many ft. lbs. would i need then?

[Boat Doc']

the head bolts are 1/2 inch how many ft. lbs. would i need then?

About 35. However you should try to verify what the manufacturer recommends. Serious damage to the block may occur

[De-Dub]

I have a 2005 Suzuki 90hp 4 stroke that starts great without any hesitation. It gets up on plane fine but then begins "stuttering" is the best explaination that I can come up with. I tried watching the gas bulb to see if it was collapsing on itself and it was not. I then tried squeezing the bulb a few times to see if that smoothed things out and it didn't help either.
It just kinda lurches at any speed above 15mph.
Any help / suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
DW

[Boat Doc']

I have a 2005 Suzuki 90hp 4 stroke that starts great without any hesitation. It gets up on plane fine but then begins "stuttering" is the best explaination that I can come up with. I tried watching the gas bulb to see if it was collapsing on itself and it was not. I then tried squeezing the bulb a few times to see if that smoothed things out and it didn't help either.
It just kinda lurches at any speed above 15mph.
Any help / suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
DW

Start with fuel filters and plugs. If it still does it then check coils or injecters if it has them

[Ajax22]

you told me 35 for the 1/2 inch head bolt, now is that inch lbs. or foot lbs. because 35 foot lbs seams a bit much for an aluminum block?

[Boat Doc']

you told me 35 for the 1/2 inch head bolt, now is that inch lbs. or foot lbs. because 35 foot lbs seams a bit much for an aluminum block?

Ft lbs. you really need to find someone with the correct manual so you don't mess up the block

[Ajax22]

Ft lbs. you really need to find someone with the correct manual so you don't mess up the block

Sorry to be a pest, i got the exact specs it's 14-16ft lbs. Thanks for all help you could provide me with.

[USMCfisher]

Heres my issue,

2001 175 Merc sportjet started making a dingdingdingding just audible over the engine when i was running last. It had sputtered and died when i started it that day but then started fine the next time. The ding starts when i throttle up around 2/3 and above. it seems to go away when i decrease speed but right back once i go again. I have added oil before this started and havent had the boat out much over the last few months. any ideas?

[Boat Doc']

Heres my issue,

2001 175 Merc sportjet started making a dingdingdingding just audible over the engine when i was running last. It had sputtered and died when i started it that day but then started fine the next time. The ding starts when i throttle up around 2/3 and above. it seems to go away when i decrease speed but right back once i go again. I have added oil before this started and havent had the boat out much over the last few months. any ideas?

I'm guessing your hearing the alarm sounding an intermittent beep. If so check the oil reservoir on the engine and make sure it's all the way full and if not loosen the cap with the engine idling and let it fill up. If it doesn't fill then find out why- loose cap, pinched lines etc. If the reservoir is full and the alarm is sounding you should remove the oil pump and drive gear and see if the gear on the crankshaft is intact. If not replace it. If the alarm is not sounding then check compression and rod drop to see if there is mechanical issues.

[USMCfisher]

I'm guessing your hearing the alarm sounding an intermittent beep. If so check the oil reservoir on the engine and make sure it's all the way full and if not loosen the cap with the engine idling and let it fill up. If it doesn't fill then find out why- loose cap, pinched lines etc. If the reservoir is full and the alarm is sounding you should remove the oil pump and drive gear and see if the gear on the crankshaft is intact. If not replace it. If the alarm is not sounding then check compression and rod drop to see if there is mechanical issues.

Thanks! i will check the oil resevoir again. the engine was serviced 6 months ago and i know the compression was perfect and no problems then. Only needed to replace stator which was done professionally.

[boatman]

I have a 86 ford 302 with points, I would like to replace them with solid state. Is it easy and suggestion for parts. Thanks

[Boat Doc']

[QUOTE=boatman;2764086]I have a 86 ford 302 with points, I would like to replace them with solid state. Is it easy and suggestion for parts. Thanks

You can get a kit from the auto parts store. Will need to know what brand distrubuter you have. If they can't help I can get you a part number. Need to know the brand. Mallory, Prestolite etc.

[deeptrout]

I was thinking today, I would like to eliminate my keyswitch on my 115 merc pump. It has a tiller handle, and when I am trolling with the kicker I always fold the handle on the big motor up out of the way wich leaves the key kind of sticking out unprotected. Long ago I realised that if I broke that key off in the ignition, I was going to be puting the boat on the trailer with the winch after a long run with the kicker. I have been folding up the handle, pulling the key, and setting it in the breadbox under the fishfinder for so long now I do it without thinking, like puting in a plug.
But what if I need that pump up and running quick? Could I eliminate the keyswitch and replace it with a starter button? I know the optimax engines don't like being left in the "key on" position for long periods of time like between weekends, so would I have to put in an on/off switch somewhere, or could the tether switch do the job? Thanks for any help or advice you can offer.

[backeddy]

Hey Boat Doc!

I have a fuel delivery problem. If I fill my mounted fuel cell which is vented through the hull of 11 gals my Merc 115 will run fine for a few minutes. Then it will suck the primer bulb flat and starve it out. I wait for a few minutes and it will refill and do the same. I dont have this problem when the tank is less than half full. So I got a red 6 gal auxilary tank and filled it halfway and ran the motor with no problems at all. So I then filled the 6 gal auxilary tank full and made sure the vent in the cap was open. I had the same problem of the motor starving out and the bulb going flat. I have also replaced the bulb twice and the same happens. Why would I have such a problem with the venting of both full cells if full? Thanks Boat Doc I'm about to go insane...

[Boat Doc']

I was thinking today, I would like to eliminate my keyswitch on my 115 merc pump. It has a tiller handle, and when I am trolling with the kicker I always fold the handle on the big motor up out of the way wich leaves the key kind of sticking out unprotected. Long ago I realised that if I broke that key off in the ignition, I was going to be puting the boat on the trailer with the winch after a long run with the kicker. I have been folding up the handle, pulling the key, and setting it in the breadbox under the fishfinder for so long now I do it without thinking, like puting in a plug.
But what if I need that pump up and running quick? Could I eliminate the keyswitch and replace it with a starter button? I know the optimax engines don't like being left in the "key on" position for long periods of time like between weekends, so would I have to put in an on/off switch somewhere, or could the tether switch do the job? Thanks for any help or advice you can offer.

You could use the lanyard as an on/off switch. You would need a good waterproof switch for the start function. You will save some potential problems by using the existing switch

[Boat Doc']

Hey Boat Doc!

I have a fuel delivery problem. If I fill my mounted fuel cell which is vented through the hull of 11 gals my Merc 115 will run fine for a few minutes. Then it will suck the primer bulb flat and starve it out. I wait for a few minutes and it will refill and do the same. I dont have this problem when the tank is less than half full. So I got a red 6 gal auxilary tank and filled it halfway and ran the motor with no problems at all. So I then filled the 6 gal auxilary tank full and made sure the vent in the cap was open. I had the same problem of the motor starving out and the bulb going flat. I have also replaced the bulb twice and the same happens. Why would I have such a problem with the venting of both full cells if full? Thanks Boat Doc I'm about to go insane...

For the bulb to physically suck flat there is a restriction between the bulb and the pickup in the tank or the vent is plugged. Try a different line if you have one. Also try running with the cap off. By doing the above youy should be able to isolate the problem

[dragon67]

Trying to figure this out. Mercury 115 horsepower efi 4 stroke. The motor starts right up and idles great. Under a load the motor doesn't have all of its power. The compression is good at 150-155psi in all four cylinders. The fuel pressure is 35. Is the fuel pressure at 35 ok or is it suppose to be higher? and would that be bad fuel injectors or bad flow of gas? thx for any help

[Boat Doc']

Trying to figure this out. Mercury 115 horsepower efi 4 stroke. The motor starts right up and idles great. Under a load the motor doesn't have all of its power. The compression is good at 150-155psi in all four cylinders. The fuel pressure is 35. Is the fuel pressure at 35 ok or is it suppose to be higher? and would that be bad fuel injectors or bad flow of gas? thx for any help

Your a little low depending on which ser# group you fall in. If you get me the ser# I can confirm it. You may also have a coil breaking down, try hooking up a timeing lite or pulling the wires one at a time to try to isolate it.

[dragon67]

Here is the serial# ot941240. In neutral it rev's right up and sounds like it is firing on all 4. In gear it has trouble pushing the boat up on plane

[Boat Doc']

Here is the serial# ot941240. In neutral it rev's right up and sounds like it is firing on all 4. In gear it has trouble pushing the boat up on plane

Pressure should be 41-44 at 1500 rpm

[Schenley]

Hey Boat Doc.. further to the info you posted on compression and fuel pump pressure on a Merc 115 4 stroke.......

I have a 2008 115 Merc 4 stroke. During winterizing, the tech checked the compression. It is 250, 255, 255, 265. Is a difference of 15 lbs for this engine normal, or potentially a problem?

Cheers
bryan

[Boat Doc']

Hey Boat Doc.. further to the info you posted on compression and fuel pump pressure on a Merc 115 4 stroke.......

I have a 2008 115 Merc 4 stroke. During winterizing, the tech checked the compression. It is 250, 255, 255, 265. Is a difference of 15 lbs for this engine normal, or potentially a problem?

Cheers
bryan

No problem,they give 15% leeway.

[Schenley]

No problem,they give 15% leeway.

Mucho thanks!:applause:

[MarvinHenkel]

why if you are a guide and have a alumaweld and the hall has a crack in it, is not covered in warranty?
and you bought the boat new!!!!!!!!

[baitsauce]

What kind of life can be expected from the timing belt on a 2002 Bigfoot 9.9? It has about a bazillion hours on it but the belt seems to be tight, like it should be.

Also, is there a danger of bent valves and/or broken pistons if the belt fails while the motor is running? Such as is the case with "interference" heads or engines? My guess is yes.

Thanks in advance......

[Rick on Rogue]

I have a 2000 Mercury 40 hp four stroke. At the end of the starter motor there is a soft plastic cover and on the shaft under it there is a spring that is wadded up like a ..... well wadded up. Is that part replaceable, or do I need a whole new starter? The starter still functions but makes a terrible noise now when engaged.

http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/SAB0114.jpg

[Boat Doc']

What kind of life can be expected from the timing belt on a 2002 Bigfoot 9.9? It has about a bazillion hours on it but the belt seems to be tight, like it should be.

Also, is there a danger of bent valves and/or broken pistons if the belt fails while the motor is running? Such as is the case with "interference" heads or engines? My guess is yes.

Thanks in advance......

Book says to inspect it every 100 hours, nothing about replacement. If it breaks or slips the valves will hit the piston

[Boat Doc']

I have a 2000 Mercury 40 hp four stroke. At the end of the starter motor there is a soft plastic cover and on the shaft under it there is a spring that is wadded up like a ..... well wadded up. Is that part replaceable, or do I need a whole new starter? The starter still functions but makes a terrible noise now when engaged.

http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/SAB0114.jpg

That is part of a drive kit, runs about 70 bucks.

[namu mac]

I have twin 2005 yamaha 150 hp motors with apporx 400 hours. When I drained the lower units the LH motor lube was a little milky, the other was clear. I know that water intrusion is the cause for the off color. This was changed about 100 hours /last fall. The question is should I use them another season and see what happesn or should it be looked at now. This is all salt wated use.

[Lou]

Doc, I have a 87 60 hrp, sweet motor (when it works).
I have no stream, so replaced the impeller and flushed the
system (one of the blades on the old impeller was missing).
Still no stream. Does this motor have a thermastat and
where is it?
Thanks Doc!:)

[Boat Doc']

I have twin 2005 yamaha 150 hp motors with apporx 400 hours. When I drained the lower units the LH motor lube was a little milky, the other was clear. I know that water intrusion is the cause for the off color. This was changed about 100 hours /last fall. The question is should I use them another season and see what happesn or should it be looked at now. This is all salt wated use.

I wouldn't wait, fix it before it becomes a major problem. Look for fish line around the prop shaft seals, and the seals on the drain plugs.

[Seasick]

I obtained a 15 foot Orrion for small, calm water fishing, something I don't do much of anymore, I like the ocean. It has a 78 or 79 50 hp merc on it. I took it to the river in West Salem where I live and drove it around a little about two weeks ago. I took it there yesterday to throw a couple of jigs around and it would not start. Brought it home, pulled the plugs, seemed clean but replaced them anyway. Still won't spark. With plugs pulled it blows out fuel so it must be getting to the cylinders, must be "spark". Any ideas.

[Boat Doc']

Doc, I have a 87 60 hrp, sweet motor (when it works).
I have no stream, so replaced the impeller and flushed the
system (one of the blades on the old impeller was missing).
Still no stream. Does this motor have a thermastat and
where is it?
Thanks Doc!:)

Thermostat is located port side of block, Make sure the pee hole isn't plugged, it may be obstructed where the water exits the cowling.

[Lou]

Thermostat is located port side of block, Make sure the pee hole isn't plugged, it may be obstructed where the water exits the cowling.

Thanks, it was plugged by the black mason bee's, right at the
point where the cowling exit is. Long way for those varmit to climb.
It back flushes from that point, with the lower unit off.
But it win't pee the other, just a very small amount of steam:confused:
The only thing I can think of is the thermastat, unless you
have any other idea.

[Boat Doc']

Thanks, it was plugged by the black mason bee's, right at the
point where the cowling exit is. Long way for those varmit to climb.
It back flushes from that point, with the lower unit off.
But it win't pee the other, just a very small amount of steam:confused:
The only thing I can think of is the thermastat, unless you
have any other idea.

If it blows steam then it's not getting enough water. Make sure you don't run it in a barrel, it can get exhaust in the cooling system. If the water pump is assembled correctly then try blowing air or water back thru the thermostat. The missing impeller piece is likely the culprit

[dragon67]

What is the compression on a mercury 115hp 4 stroke suppose to be? Looking at a motor and he says that the compression is 151 to 157 psi, just want to make sure it is in the correct range.

[Boat Doc']

What is the compression on a mercury 115hp 4 stroke suppose to be? Looking at a motor and he says that the compression is 151 to 157 psi, just want to make sure it is in the correct range.

Min is 138, so you are fine

[Rick on Rogue]

That is part of a drive kit, runs about 70 bucks.

Thanks for the info.

[Buck]

Boat Doc:

I'm looking at used jet sleds in the 16-18' range with 65-140hp outboard jets and many have consoles and remote controls, but I am interested in a tiller control outboard to have more open space in the boat. My question is: how available are tiller kits for jet motors of various makes and horsepower ratings and how involved and expensive is it to convert to tiller control? Thanks.

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc:

I'm looking at used jet sleds in the 16-18' range with 65-140hp outboard jets and many have consoles and remote controls, but I am interested in a tiller control outboard to have more open space in the boat. My question is: how available are tiller kits for jet motors of various makes and horsepower ratings and how involved and expensive is it to convert to tiller control? Thanks.

I am most familiar with Mercury, in the power range your looking at something is available or can be adapted no problem on models newer than about 1985. I think Yamaha has a tiller for most models but unsure of other brands. Expect to pay 3- 800 plus install depending if new or used. Other thing to consider is relocation of accessory panel, gauges and possibly battery and covering the hole in the floor.

[Lou]

If it blows steam then it's not getting enough water. Make sure you don't run it in a barrel, it can get exhaust in the cooling system. If the water pump is assembled correctly then try blowing air or water back thru the thermostat. The missing impeller piece is likely the culprit

Doc, no barrel just a muff. I ran water thru both ways, no luck.
I did take out that brass plug near the port side top and ran water
thru that way. I guess I am going to pull the head next.
The water went thru for about 20 min from the pee hole out the
bottom---still just steam. The out side temp is under 50 deg but
it should warm up after 5 minutes, or at least it did.
Thank you for your help.
Lou:)

[Flatfish]

Doc,

I have a 2005 Merc 200 2 stroke.

When it was new, the oil alarm would chirp when the boat would cross a wake. If I filled the big tank to the brim, it would stop, til It would run some more oil out (Couple inches down from full).

Stevens said it was incorrectly bled when it was installed, and bled the line.

This worked for about a month. Then it becan to chirp at me again, only when I would cross a wave.

After bleeding the line 3-4 times over the course of 18 months, it went away for about 6 months.

It's back again.

I am beginning to think this is the sympton of another problem.

Other than replacing the oil tank, lines, tank on the engine, and alarm system and gear that pumps the lines, what can I do to test the individual components to see if they are the source of the headache?

The tank on the engine is down a little bit from the top.

All lids are shut tight.

Thanks.

Mark

[Boat Doc']

Doc,

I have a 2005 Merc 200 2 stroke.

When it was new, the oil alarm would chirp when the boat would cross a wake. If I filled the big tank to the brim, it would stop, til It would run some more oil out (Couple inches down from full).

Stevens said it was incorrectly bled when it was installed, and bled the line.

This worked for about a month. Then it becan to chirp at me again, only when I would cross a wave.

After bleeding the line 3-4 times over the course of 18 months, it went away for about 6 months.

It's back again.

I am beginning to think this is the sympton of another problem.

Other than replacing the oil tank, lines, tank on the engine, and alarm system and gear that pumps the lines, what can I do to test the individual components to see if they are the source of the headache?

The tank on the engine is down a little bit from the top.

All lids are shut tight.

Thanks.

Mark

If the tank on the engine is low it has to be one or more of the following. Bad check valve on the engine block, broken or kinked hoses from engine to tank, hoses not hooked up correctly, loose caps or missing seal on caps. When loosening cap on the tank on the engine with the engine running the tank should slowly fill.

[Flatfish]

So, if I remove the cap on the engine when it's running, and it does not fill up, what does that mean?

The big motor is bolted on a jack plate if this makes any difference.

[STANKY]

Boat Doc,
I have a 9.9 bigfoot that I bought from Stevens in July. About 30 hours in, it started smoking and vibrating while trolling. Took it in and they adjusted the carb(eastside location). Got it back and it seemed run better for a couple hours but is now vibrating and smoking again. I put it in a barrel at home and ran it. The smoke is coming out the top hole. After studying it for a while I am pretty sure it is nto smoke, but steam. Would that have anything to do with it vibrating. It just doesn't run as quietly and as smooth as I expected. Before I take it back in I was wondering if there is anything I can do at home, its a long drive. Thanks

[Lou]

Doc, no barrel just a muff. I ran water thru both ways, no luck.
I did take out that brass plug near the port side top and ran water
thru that way. I guess I am going to pull the head next.
The water went thru for about 20 min from the pee hole out the
bottom---still just steam. The out side temp is under 50 deg but
it should warm up after 5 minutes, or at least it did.
Thank you for your help.
Lou:)

Doc,
I think I've found the problem.
I am missing the 'rubber centrifugal slinger', described on
Clymber, Merc 72 to89, page 268, A in figure 17. Found it in pieces
where I disassembled it.
Nothing holding it on, would rthat prevent the pressure from
forming?
Thanks,
Lou

[Boat Doc']

So, if I remove the cap on the engine when it's running, and it does not fill up, what does that mean?

The big motor is bolted on a jack plate if this makes any difference.

One or more of the previous items mentioned is the problem

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc,
I have a 9.9 bigfoot that I bought from Stevens in July. About 30 hours in, it started smoking and vibrating while trolling. Took it in and they adjusted the carb(eastside location). Got it back and it seemed run better for a couple hours but is now vibrating and smoking again. I put it in a barrel at home and ran it. The smoke is coming out the top hole. After studying it for a while I am pretty sure it is nto smoke, but steam. Would that have anything to do with it vibrating. It just doesn't run as quietly and as smooth as I expected. Before I take it back in I was wondering if there is anything I can do at home, its a long drive. Thanks

Steam is normal, excessive shaking is not. You could try adjusting the idle mixture screw in or out to see if it goes away. If not it will have to go to the shop.

[Boat Doc']

Doc,
I think I've found the problem.
I am missing the 'rubber centrifugal slinger', described on
Clymber, Merc 72 to89, page 268, A in figure 17. Found it in pieces
where I disassembled it.
Nothing holding it on, would rthat prevent the pressure from
forming?
Thanks,
Lou

I would remove the lower unit and force water or thru the water tube. If it's clear then look closely at the water pump for issues

[arkansasbasser]

I bought a 1995 15 hp Force outboard that is not pumping water thru the pee hole. I took off the cover and discovered a thermostat. I removed it but still no flow. I dropped the lower unit and pulled the water pump. I could tell that someone had been there before me. There were no gaskets when I took it off which I found strange. I looked up a pump kit on the net and it had no gaskets in the kit so maybe normal? The impeller looked like new. But what I noticed was that it was installed in a clockwise position. I just rebuilt a Johnson water pump and in was installed counter-clockwise. Could this be the problem? Oh, I blew air threw the pee hole and got air out at the intake screens so I don't think there is a blockage anywhere. Thanks, Bill

[Boat Doc']

I bought a 1995 15 hp Force outboard that is not pumping water thru the pee hole. I took off the cover and discovered a thermostat. I removed it but still no flow. I dropped the lower unit and pulled the water pump. I could tell that someone had been there before me. There were no gaskets when I took it off which I found strange. I looked up a pump kit on the net and it had no gaskets in the kit so maybe normal? The impeller looked like new. But what I noticed was that it was installed in a clockwise position. I just rebuilt a Johnson water pump and in was installed counter-clockwise. Could this be the problem? Oh, I blew air threw the pee hole and got air out at the intake screens so I don't think there is a blockage anywhere. Thanks, Bill

All outboards rotate clockwise. Reassemble everything and verify if the engine is getting hot. If it is and the water pump is correctly assembled then there is blockage somewhere above the water pump or a bad head gasket or? Do not run it in a barrel to diagnose an overheat condition!

[Rick on Rogue]

That is part of a drive kit, runs about 70 bucks.

OK I have the drive kit, Do I just pull the ring/clip and install all new parts?

[arkansasbasser]

All outboards rotate clockwise. Reassemble everything and verify if the engine is getting hot. If it is and the water pump is correctly assembled then there is blockage somewhere above the water pump or a bad head gasket or? Do not run it in a barrel to diagnose an overheat condition!If there is a blockage, how to clear it?

[honker1]

[QUOTE=Boat Doc';2807874]All outboards rotate clockwise. Reassemble everything and verify if the engine is getting hot. If it is and the water pump is correctly assembled then there is blockage somewhere above the water pump or a bad head gasket or? Do not run it in a barrel to diagnose an overheat condition![/QU

Just wondering why not to run it in a tank to diagnose an overheat problem. I have a 120 gal tank that I use a lot during the off season just so I run the motors every 3 weeks to keep fuel & oil circulating. Is this a bad thing to be doing?

[Lou]

I would remove the lower unit and force water or thru the water tube. If it's clear then look closely at the water pump for issues
Well I did all that. I finally hooked the water directly to the pee
tube. The water just pores out the exhaust on the prop hub.
Considering its age, I just don't know. It runs very good just not
cool!:passout:

[Boat Doc']

OK I have the drive kit, Do I just pull the ring/clip and install all new parts?

Yes that is correct

[Boat Doc']

If there is a blockage, how to clear it?

Force water or air thru any available areas to try to dislodge it. If that doesn't work then you may have to start removing covers. It can be challenging to find.

[Boat Doc']

[QUOTE=Boat Doc';2807874]All outboards rotate clockwise. Reassemble everything and verify if the engine is getting hot. If it is and the water pump is correctly assembled then there is blockage somewhere above the water pump or a bad head gasket or? Do not run it in a barrel to diagnose an overheat condition![/QU

Just wondering why not to run it in a tank to diagnose an overheat problem. I have a 120 gal tank that I use a lot during the off season just so I run the motors every 3 weeks to keep fuel & oil circulating. Is this a bad thing to be doing?

In some cases the tank can be small enough that exhaust air can get into the cooling system giving a false overheat condition. Probably not in your case

[Boat Doc']

Well I did all that. I finally hooked the water directly to the pee
tube. The water just pores out the exhaust on the prop hub.
Considering its age, I just don't know. It runs very good just not
cool!:passout:

Try it without the thermostat, if it still gets hot you may have a bad side cover or gasket. This is assuming the water pump is installed correctly

[Lou]

Try it without the thermostat, if it still gets hot you may have a bad side cover or gasket. This is assuming the water pump is installed correctly
Thanks, Gary didn't think it had a t-stat. But I'll look.

[honker1]

Thanks Gary for the clarification.

[MarvinHenkel]

why if you are a guide and have a alumaweld and the hall has a crack in it, is not covered in warranty?
and you bought the boat new???????

[Boat Doc']

why if you are a guide and have a alumaweld and the hall has a crack in it, is not covered in warranty?
and you bought the boat new???????

You should contact your representative at the dealer or contact the factory directly

[Boat Doc']

Time for my annual vacation, be back 12-7
Happy fishin

[siletzsal]

Have a 1989 Evinrude 50hp electric start tiller. Low hours(300). It is stuck in forward gear. Was told it is probably broken clutch dog pin. Runs perfect otherwise. Is this the problem & please walk me through replacement?

Thanks,Don

[MarvinHenkel]

You should contact your representative at the dealer or contact the factory directly

I did they said they dont warranty a boat if you are a guide.......

[namu mac]

Boat Doc. Was working on my son's OLD Merc. 4.5 hp motor today. Replaced the - wire from the mag to the coil. Old one rotted. when I was routing it I moved the Ground wre from the kill switch and it fell apart. It just disintergrated. Just a pile of dust. The question is what besides age causes this to happen?

[Boat Doc']

[QUOTE=siletzsal;2821858]Have a 1989 Evinrude 50hp electric start tiller. Low hours(300). It is stuck in forward gear. Was told it is probably broken clutch dog pin. Runs perfect otherwise. Is this the problem & please walk me through replacement?

Thanks,Don[/QUOTE

Check the linkage going to the lower unit to make sure it is moving. If it is you will need to take it apart and see what it needs. I would suggest you get a m,anual for techical assistance

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc. Was working on my son's OLD Merc. 4.5 hp motor today. Replaced the - wire from the mag to the coil. Old one rotted. when I was routing it I moved the Ground wre from the kill switch and it fell apart. It just disintergrated. Just a pile of dust. The question is what besides age causes this to happen?

Old age is what causes the wiring to fall apart

[Smj]

Old age is what causes the wiring to fall apart

Me too!

Welcome back Doc, hope you're vacation was a good one!

Smj

[shawn b]

hi i have a 1996 merc 25hp long shaft tiller handel as we were under power the motor died.. got home pulled the plugs thier was no spark

any info would help thanks

[Boat Doc']

hi i have a 1996 merc 25hp long shaft tiller handel as we were under power the motor died.. got home pulled the plugs thier was no spark

any info would help thanks

Make sure lanyard switch is in run position. If it is locate wires coming from stop switch and disconnect them. If motor starts you will not be able to shut it off without plugging them back in! If you still don't have spark you would either need a manual or take it to a dealer for diagnosis.

[Audball]

Posted on the main forum, but thought I'd ask the experts:
I just bought a new Yamaha T8 with electric start. My boat has two batteries (starter and acessories) with a battery selector. What I'm wondering is do I run the motor's wiring directly to my "accessories" battery or do hook them up so that the battery selector can "disconnect" the trolling motor from the battery?:confused:
I figure I should just run directly to the battery, but I want to get it right the first time! Thanks for any help/advice...:thisbig:

[Boat Doc']

Posted on the main forum, but thought I'd ask the experts:
I just bought a new Yamaha T8 with electric start. My boat has two batteries (starter and acessories) with a battery selector. What I'm wondering is do I run the motor's wiring directly to my "accessories" battery or do hook them up so that the battery selector can "disconnect" the trolling motor from the battery?:confused:
I figure I should just run directly to the battery, but I want to get it right the first time! Thanks for any help/advice...:thisbig:

I would have motors run off a battery and accesories off the other.

[honker1]

Welcome back DOC...Hope you had a relaxing vacation. :pray:

[namu mac]

Old age is what causes the wiring to fall apart
Can't wait for that to happen to "my" wiring.:D

[Robalo Bill]

Overheating on a 1994 mercury 150 OG005704 sn.
This past season I have replaced both thermostats, compltely cleaned and flushed the cooling sysytm. Rebuilt the waterpump at least 3 times, new housing, impeller, thrust washer etc. Pulled the Post side head, cylinders are clean no scoring (thought it might be th oil pump or water port clog). Pulled the exhaust manifold replaced all new gaskets. Replaced poppit valve and 2 voltage regulators, that I cooked 2nd water trial. So I get extremly strong stream of water coming from the pee tube. However opeerating temperature is about 160f at idle, when under way, shoots to 230+ within 2-3 minutes. If I throttle down and idle temperature reurns to 160f within 5 minutes. But even at idle water is very hot to the touch, never dropping below 160f even though I have 143degree thermostats. I'm at a loss do not know what to replace next. By the way I did replace both cooked regulators.

Thanks Much
Bill

[Tiny]

I had this posted on boat and motor tech and it was suggested I post this question over here.

I have an early 2000s 9.9 merc. When I bough it the motor had been stored on it's side so I had to burn off a lot of oil before it would run decent. It isn't quite there yet. After probably 20 hours of use it will now start reliably and run well at medium high RPM but at high RPMs it sputters. It also is slow to accelerate(turn the handle fast and the acceleration happens over the next 5 seconds). this is after it is warm. Sometimes when the handle is turned fast it almost kills it. Once it is run for a long while(it seems tool long to me) it will run fairly well but not great at low RPM as long as i don't down throttle it too quickly.

Suggestions?
http://www.ifish.net/board/images/ifish/statusicon/user_online.gif http://www.ifish.net/board/images/ifish/buttons/report.gif (http://www.ifish.net/board/report.php?p=2882495) http://www.ifish.net/board/images/ifish/misc/progress.gif

[Boat Doc']

Overheating on a 1994 mercury 150 OG005704 sn.
This past season I have replaced both thermostats, compltely cleaned and flushed the cooling sysytm. Rebuilt the waterpump at least 3 times, new housing, impeller, thrust washer etc. Pulled the Post side head, cylinders are clean no scoring (thought it might be th oil pump or water port clog). Pulled the exhaust manifold replaced all new gaskets. Replaced poppit valve and 2 voltage regulators, that I cooked 2nd water trial. So I get extremly strong stream of water coming from the pee tube. However opeerating temperature is about 160f at idle, when under way, shoots to 230+ within 2-3 minutes. If I throttle down and idle temperature reurns to 160f within 5 minutes. But even at idle water is very hot to the touch, never dropping below 160f even though I have 143degree thermostats. I'm at a loss do not know what to replace next. By the way I did replace both cooked regulators.

Thanks Much
Bill


The most commonly overlooked part is the water pump base gasket. If it's broke it can cause what you describe

[Boat Doc']

I had this posted on boat and motor tech and it was suggested I post this question over here.

I have an early 2000s 9.9 merc. When I bough it the motor had been stored on it's side so I had to burn off a lot of oil before it would run decent. It isn't quite there yet. After probably 20 hours of use it will now start reliably and run well at medium high RPM but at high RPMs it sputters. It also is slow to accelerate(turn the handle fast and the acceleration happens over the next 5 seconds). this is after it is warm. Sometimes when the handle is turned fast it almost kills it. Once it is run for a long while(it seems tool long to me) it will run fairly well but not great at low RPM as long as i don't down throttle it too quickly.

Suggestions?
http://www.ifish.net/board/images/ifish/statusicon/user_online.gif http://www.ifish.net/board/images/ifish/buttons/report.gif (http://www.ifish.net/board/report.php?p=2882495) http://www.ifish.net/board/images/ifish/misc/progress.gif

2 things, possibly hitting the rev limiter at high speed? If you slow it down a little it should stop. Also thoroughly disassemble and clean the carb. It may fix both problems

[DTSportsman]

I have an '84 25Hp Merc that just decided to start running really rough, and then die, like it is starving for fuel. After pulling the cover off I noticed a small hole in the fuel line between the filter and the carb. The hole was at the filter, so I cut the bad piece off and re attached it with a zip tie, (just like it on all of the lines). That didn't fix the problem, did I not get the zip tie tight enough and air is still passing by? Carb issue?

What do you think?
Daryn

[Boat Doc']

I have an '84 25Hp Merc that just decided to start running really rough, and then die, like it is starving for fuel. After pulling the cover off I noticed a small hole in the fuel line between the filter and the carb. The hole was at the filter, so I cut the bad piece off and re attached it with a zip tie, (just like it on all of the lines). That didn't fix the problem, did I not get the zip tie tight enough and air is still passing by? Carb issue?

What do you think?
Daryn

Check spark and compression, look at the plugs. If everything ok then I would rebuild the carb.

[Loneangler]

I have a Smokercraft Tracer with riveted hull on a bunk trailer. The bunks are about ready to be replaced and I would rather use sliks on the new bunk boards than carpeting. Can I do this with the riveted hull? The sliks manufacturer indicates that the hull will not damage or chip the sliks I am considering. The bunks fit the hull between the riveted seams so the rivets will not be directly on the sliks. Thanks for your insight.

[Boat Doc']

I have a Smokercraft Tracer with riveted hull on a bunk trailer. The bunks are about ready to be replaced and I would rather use sliks on the new bunk boards than carpeting. Can I do this with the riveted hull? The sliks manufacturer indicates that the hull will not damage or chip the sliks I am considering. The bunks fit the hull between the riveted seams so the rivets will not be directly on the sliks. Thanks for your insight.

Plastic would be fine, rollers are not recommended

[Tiny]

That worked like a charm on all problems including the high RPM issue.

Thanks




2 things, possibly hitting the rev limiter at high speed? If you slow it down a little it should stop. Also thoroughly disassemble and clean the carb. It may fix both problems

[the_admeral]

Hi Doc
I was wondering, I have a "06" Merc, 9.9 XL bigfoot. I was wanting to make the shaft as short as possible. How much would this approximately cost if stevens shorted the shaft for me? Parts and labor??? Thank you very much?

[Boat Doc']

Hi Doc
I was wondering, I have a "06" Merc, 9.9 XL bigfoot. I was wanting to make the shaft as short as possible. How much would this approximately cost if stevens shorted the shaft for me? Parts and labor??? Thank you very much?

Approx 600.00. Keep in mind the driveshaft, shift shaft and water tube get replaced. This will make it a 20 inch motor

[Maddie'sDaddy]

Hey Doc

Seeing as how I bought the boat from you folks, What do you folks recommend to clean the lifetime floors in the Smokercraft boats, Mostly leaf stains.

Thanks for any helpful tips :D



MD

[Boat Doc']

Hey Doc

Seeing as how I bought the boat from you folks, What do you folks recommend to clean the lifetime floors in the Smokercraft boats, Mostly leaf stains.

Thanks for any helpful tips :D



MD

We use an industrial stuff called wildcat. It cleans about anything. If you come by we can fix you up with some

[benchm]

I have a 96 175 efi merc ( that I bought from you guys ) I found a prop that the guy said came off a mercruser out drive will that fit my motor??
Thanks in advance TED

[Boat Doc']

I have a 96 175 efi merc ( that I bought from you guys ) I found a prop that the guy said came off a mercruser out drive will that fit my motor??
Thanks in advance TED

It will fit, if it rubs after you tighten it down you will need to get the correct hardware

[Eliminator]

I have an 18' Alumaweld Super Vee Light with a 115 Mercury Pump with tiller handle. Recently I have been experiencing some problems getting up on a plane. There doesn't seem to be a power loss problem. I changed the spark plugs because the gap was about three times larger than it should have been. The boat isn't overloaded either. Yesterday I couldn't get on a plane until my buddy went up to the bow. The motor is wasn't trimmed too much. I trimmed it up and shot a "rooster tail" about 50'. The motor is fine at low speeds. I don't seem to get much of a "hole shot" and it isn't popping up on a plane like it used to.

Is this an impeller issue? There are no rocks, seaweed, or anything in the pump housing. My shoe is damaged. I broke a chunk off about 9 years ago on the Clackamas (about a month after I bought the boat from Stevens...DOH!)

Please help.

[Boat Doc']

I have an 18' Alumaweld Super Vee Light with a 115 Mercury Pump with tiller handle. Recently I have been experiencing some problems getting up on a plane. There doesn't seem to be a power loss problem. I changed the spark plugs because the gap was about three times larger than it should have been. The boat isn't overloaded either. Yesterday I couldn't get on a plane until my buddy went up to the bow. The motor is wasn't trimmed too much. I trimmed it up and shot a "rooster tail" about 50'. The motor is fine at low speeds. I don't seem to get much of a "hole shot" and it isn't popping up on a plane like it used to.

Is this an impeller issue? There are no rocks, seaweed, or anything in the pump housing. My shoe is damaged. I broke a chunk off about 9 years ago on the Clackamas (about a month after I bought the boat from Stevens...DOH!)

Please help.

Remove the intake and inspect the liner for bad pits or grooves. Replace if necessary. Look at the leading edge of the impeller blades and sharpen as needed if they are damaged. Set the clearance to about .015. Make sure when the shift lever is in forward that the reverse cup is all the way down tight; if not adjust the cable as necessary. Also make sure there is no rocks in the intake or outlet. If all that is ok then you should check spark and compression.

[Eliminator]

Thanks Boat Doc' !

I removed the liner, sharpened the impeller edges, and shimmed it down one spacer. The liner is grooved, but not too bad. The cup is adjusted fine. I found one rock above the impeller. Hopefully all that will take care of the issue.

Doing all that tinkering inspired me to do a lot of preventative maintenance on my boat, motors, and trailer.

So...

I need to replace the impeller on my water pump on my 6 horse kicker. It is a Mercury 6ml. I have the replacement kit already. When I remove the three bolts the lower unit drops down, but I can't remove it. It is still attached somewhere (or something??) I have done this before on another motor. What am I doing wrong? It doesn't seem to help if it is in forward, neutral, or reverse.

Thanks for all of your help!!

[Boat Doc']

Thanks Boat Doc' !

I removed the liner, sharpened the impeller edges, and shimmed it down one spacer. The liner is grooved, but not too bad. The cup is adjusted fine. I found one rock above the impeller. Hopefully all that will take care of the issue.

Doing all that tinkering inspired me to do a lot of preventative maintenance on my boat, motors, and trailer.

So...

I need to replace the impeller on my water pump on my 6 horse kicker. It is a Mercury 6ml. I have the replacement kit already. When I remove the three bolts the lower unit drops down, but I can't remove it. It is still attached somewhere (or something??) I have done this before on another motor. What am I doing wrong? It doesn't seem to help if it is in forward, neutral, or reverse.

Thanks for all of your help!!

Take off the cowl and look next to the carb on the port side. There is a clip that needs to be removed to release the shift shaft. Also look at the shift shaft where it goes by the reverse lock hooks and remove that clamp. It will now slide off

[iwanttofish]

I have the replacement switch for my 96 mercury 115 that I got from the tigard store. Quicksilver Part Number 87 18286A43 Switch harness

I though that I had a sheet or instructions on removing the throttle handle and replacing the switch but I can not find it.:doh:

I dont want to tear it apart and not be able to get it back together.

I did install a remote switch on the rear of the boat so I am using that now to tilt the motor.

Help:doh:

[Boat Doc']

I have the replacement switch for my 96 mercury 115 that I got from the tigard store. Quicksilver Part Number 87 18286A43 Switch harness

I though that I had a sheet or instructions on removing the throttle handle and replacing the switch but I can not find it.:doh:

I dont want to tear it apart and not be able to get it back together.

I did install a remote switch on the rear of the boat so I am using that now to tilt the motor.

Help:doh:

Tiller handle trim switch is accessed by removing the cover on the bottom of the housing

[iwanttofish]

Tiller handle trim switch is accessed by removing the cover on the bottom of the housing

Thanks I almost got it back together, it is a forward mount throttle control. I have one extra metal spacer that I do not know where it came from it fell out when I was getting the switch in. I will try to figure it out in the AM.

Thanks for your info.

Mike

[iwanttofish]

Thanks Boat Doc I got it back together and appears to work good. I will test it in a few days.

[Danno]

Outboard Motors and Dual Batteries

I have read some literature that says to isolate two outboards on separate batteries with a switch to combine when necessary. The reason has to do with dualing alternators and problems that could arise. Does this apply to a main motor and kicker as well. I think the common practice with a kicker is that both outboards are connected to one battery and the electronics to the other with a switch between.

- When does one isolate the engine batteries and when is it okay to combine the outboards on one battery?

[Boat Doc']

Outboard Motors and Dual Batteries

I have read some literature that says to isolate two outboards on separate batteries with a switch to combine when necessary. The reason has to do with dualing alternators and problems that could arise. Does this apply to a main motor and kicker as well. I think the common practice with a kicker is that both outboards are connected to one battery and the electronics to the other with a switch between.

- When does one isolate the engine batteries and when is it okay to combine the outboards on one battery?

My opinion is one battery for each main engine, accessories off there own battery or have them run off a main engine battery, kickers can be run off a main engine battery battery as they do not run at the same time. You would use a isolater instead of a multi battery switch so you don't have to manually select which batteries you want to charge or run off of.

[Danno]

Thanks BD! Here's a follow up question...

Even though the kicker isn't run at the same time most of the time, I know I had run both at the same time on occassion. Mostly to make sure I had control by one engine until the other was warmed up enough to be dependable. What kind of problems could that create? I didn't have any problems that I knew of.

Second question: Is an isolator different from an automatic charging relay? Can you point me to a product?

[Boat Doc']

Thanks BD! Here's a follow up question...

Even though the kicker isn't run at the same time most of the time, I know I had run both at the same time on occassion. Mostly to make sure I had control by one engine until the other was warmed up enough to be dependable. What kind of problems could that create? I didn't have any problems that I knew of.

Second question: Is an isolator different from an automatic charging relay? Can you point me to a product?

Kicker doesn't have enough output to cause an issue, charging relay and isolater are the same. Make sure you get one for marine use so it doesn't rust out. Some brands are Guest, Professional Mariner and Newmar. Also need to make sure you match them to the type of charging system, for example alternater vs stator for outboard use

[top_pin_or]

Hey Boat Doc: I am a new owner of a 2000 Alumaweld Styker. I have owned this boat since last August had it all checked out by the shop at stevens before i bought it. I have had no problems with it but i was looking through the motor and tech forum on here and see some people have had problems with hydrolok. Im not really sure of what the cause of this condition is or if there is anyway to keep this from happening to me. If you have any input it would be greatly appreciated.

[Space Gunner]

My 2007 Merc. 9.9 was diagnosed with a problem called Making Oil and cost me time and money last Oct. Can you please tell me how this happens and how to prevent it. I checked the oil before each use and it didn't look like it should be a problem.
Thanks,
Randy

[Chromitis]

Sir,

Could you give any info on the "low pressure warning indicator" of a 2005 Yamaha 4-stroke T9.9 EXH2D. Is the light to remain off or on during normal operation. The manual states, "The oil pressure lamp is on when the engine is running and oil pressure is normal. If oil pressure drops too low, the lamp goes off. As an additional alert of the low oil pressure condition, the engine runs roughly and will not exceed about 2000 rpm."

The light on mine is always off, yet the motor runs like a top and does not exhibit the poor running or rpm limit. To add further confusion, the Yamaha tech I talked to said the light should always be "off".

Thanks for any info you can give on this.

[Boat Doc']

Hey Boat Doc: I am a new owner of a 2000 Alumaweld Styker. I have owned this boat since last August had it all checked out by the shop at stevens before i bought it. I have had no problems with it but i was looking through the motor and tech forum on here and see some people have had problems with hydrolok. Im not really sure of what the cause of this condition is or if there is anyway to keep this from happening to me. If you have any input it would be greatly appreciated.

Depends on the motor, sport jet is to much weight in the back of the boat with swells engine not running, inboard is dieselng when shut off

[Boat Doc']

My 2007 Merc. 9.9 was diagnosed with a problem called Making Oil and cost me time and money last Oct. Can you please tell me how this happens and how to prevent it. I checked the oil before each use and it didn't look like it should be a problem.
Thanks,
Randy

normally running rich, running cold or a gasket failure

[Boat Doc']

Sir,

Could you give any info on the "low pressure warning indicator" of a 2005 Yamaha 4-stroke T9.9 EXH2D. Is the light to remain off or on during normal operation. The manual states, "The oil pressure lamp is on when the engine is running and oil pressure is normal. If oil pressure drops too low, the lamp goes off. As an additional alert of the low oil pressure condition, the engine runs roughly and will not exceed about 2000 rpm."

The light on mine is always off, yet the motor runs like a top and does not exhibit the poor running or rpm limit. To add further confusion, the Yamaha tech I talked to said the light should always be "off".

Thanks for any info you can give on this.
Not a Yamaha expert but I would guess you have the manual for the wrong engine, light off runs good no problems.

[rip n lips]

Hey Doc, I recently replaced the tilt/trim motor in my boat. Everything had been working fine until the last time I took it out. Started noticing fluid spraying when tilting the engine up. Got it home thinking/hoping it was just one of the lines. Low n behold it was comming from between the peice where the engage/disingage knob and all the lines are and the top peice. 1st thought was gasket but upone dissambly I found there was just a metal plate there. Below the plate on the peice where the knob and the lines are there are 4 O-rings. One of the O-rings (closest to the front) is oval and is broken. 95% sure this is where my leak was occuring. Question is can I just replace this O-ring? I tried picking one up from the hardware store but being it fits in an oblong slot it will not stay in place...any ideas?

[One Eyed Jack]

Boat Doc
I have twin 135 opt max.Both motors tilted up fine for the road trip home.And now the starboard motor will not go up or dpwn.
Where should Istart looking?
Thanks Bruce