Stevens Marine Boat Doc'

[Boat Doc']

dinofun, don't stock em but we can get em. Give us a call if you want one

[Boat Doc']

ripnlips, yes, if hooked up correctly the trim button will take it all the way up

[Boat Doc']

justfish, fully charged is 12.65, should recharge around 12.3-12.4

[gearfreak]

Hello Boat Doc,
I have a 1972 Chrysler 85, 857HD with a bent spline shaft. Is this something I can get a new part for or will I have to try and have it repaired? Would the tolerances for out of true on the shaft make a repair out of the question?
Thanks for your time.

[Boat Doc']

gearfreak, Independant Marine Propeller may be able to straighten it, be much cheaper than replacement

[rip n lips]

OK time to start from the begining...Took my boat out last October. The tilt down worked fine but the tilt up had to be pushed a few times to get it to go up. My battery was pretty much dead so I didn't think too much of it. I parked it for a couple months and just got a new battery. Hooked it all up and the tilt up did nothing, no clicks, nothing. Tilt down worked fine...tried tracing the wires and unplugged the whole harness. Got the little rubber boot the the 3 male adapters plugged back in and pushed the tilt up. Nothing...Engine was all the way down but I pushed the tilt down and it went a lil further then stopped. I disengaged the lock mechanism manually and lifted my engine up. Today when I got home I tried what you said and connected the blue and purple wire together, nothing. Where should I start...? Help Boat Doc Help!

[fillet&release]

DOC
My 70 hp yamaha quit on me not worth fixing so I am going to look at a 97 60 hp merc that a guy has used it has power trim and tilt controls and all that stuff what should the compression read? and how low can it be and still be a good motor... should I look at anything else? Does this seem to be a pretty good motor or should I shy away? also how much difference will I notice between my 84 yammi 70 and this particular 60? thanks any advice helps.

[jmg]

Boat Doc-- (PART 1) I have a 1998 Merc 90 O/B 2 stroke. The last few times I was out river crabbing and I would slide up to a buoy and put the boat in neutral...the motor would idle very rough with a fair amount of visible exhaust and then die and it would take a couple of minutes to 10-15 before it would re-start and I would have to run my kicker until it would fire again. I took it into the Milwaukie store and they replaced the oil check valve that was sticking open. The next time I took it out it wasn't smoking anymore but once I started into my string it died again and took roughly 20 minutes before it fired up. It smelled very strongly of gas and so I removed the carbs and cleaned them all out and installed new gaskets and needle valves. Anything that I should also check? It has a new inline filter and new plugs. The gas in it is approximately 90% non-ethanol that has marine sta-bil as well. Thanks.

[jmg]

BOAT DOC-- (PART 2) After motor would die and then start back up again...when going from the end pot back to the beginning again I would open up the throttle (not tiller drive) and I would get no response. I would come back to almost neutral if not all the way to neutral and then increase again and often times have to do it a 3rd time before it would realize I'm giving it gas and throttle up. What would cause the "delay" or "loading up"? Thanks.

[Boat Doc']

ripnlips, need to check voltage to the solenoid(s). understand that blue is up and green is down and red or purple is constant power- purple is key on power. If you have power going to the motor and it's not running the motor needs repair. Should be a easy process of elimination to repair.

[Boat Doc']

fillet&release, main thing the compression being within 15% of even. Min would be around 90psi. So long as the 60 is propped correctly the 10 horse power loss would equate to a little slower time to plane and a little off the top end

[Boat Doc']

jmg, sounds like the idle mixture is set to lean which will cause it to bog or die on acceleration

[ET]

Boat Doc: 1984 70hp 2-stroke Yamaha

This just happened again this morning.


The last three times out, (but prior to each incidence, the motor had been sitting unused for several weeks), I started my outboard and after a short time warming up and just as I'm about to leave the dock, the overheat alarm has gone off. I've pulled the cover and verified that the thermostat and head are indeed too hot so it doesn't seem to be a sensor problem. The waterpump telltale is peeing water, but the motor is still overheating so I shut it off immediately.

What is really strange is that after shutting the motor off and letting it sit for a few minutes to cool down, the motor will start and then operate normally all day. After cooling, the water circulation seems to operate correctly. The next day when I go out (normally being a Sunday), it works fine. This seems to only happen after the motor has been sitting unused for a few weeks.

I replaced the thermostat last week thinking that must be the problem, but this morning it happened again.

My next step is to replace the waterpump....even though it seems to be operating fine... What else could it be? A flow restriction that opens up once the motor has overheated????

Any ideas on why a motor might overheat first thing in the morning and then after cooling down, run great all day and not give any problems for the rest of the weekend?

I guess I just need to use it more often!:excited:

[rip n lips]

OK Boat Doc I got some pics...Today with a test light I tested power to the solinoid, I do have power. With my engine up I pushed the down button and it made a sound like it was working, but it was locked in place so it did not move. Still no up. I unplugged the boot to take a couple pics. You can see the 2 wires (Actually 3) that branch out before the boot. The single is purple and the 2 that join together are blue. There is a red, green, and blue that run to the boot. I tried connecting the 2 stray wires like you said and got nothing. Any tips?

[Boat Doc']

et, start with the water pump and related seals or gaskets and see if it still does it.

[Boat Doc']

ripnlips, make sure the manual release and the trailer lock aren't engaged. try adding a little bit of fluid. If the pump runs with the down button but it doesn't move then there is a cylinder or valve problem assuming the above items have been checked. on the up side does the solenoid click? if not there is a problem with the solenoid or wiring or switches. the two empty plugs on the harness is what you would tie together

[rip n lips]

ripnlips, make sure the manual release and the trailer lock aren't engaged. try adding a little bit of fluid. If the pump runs with the down button but it doesn't move then there is a cylinder or valve problem assuming the above items have been checked. on the up side does the solenoid click? if not there is a problem with the solenoid or wiring or switches. the two empty plugs on the harness is what you would tie together

No the tilt up nor trim up click anymore. They were clicking the last time I took it out and I had to push them 5-10 times before it would tilt up. Now there is no clicks...The down works and it's a single solenoid so it has to be in the wiring correct? Should the solenoid still click if those two wires aren't connected?

[Boat Doc']

No the tilt up nor trim up click anymore. They were clicking the last time I took it out and I had to push them 5-10 times before it would tilt up. Now there is no clicks...The down works and it's a single solenoid so it has to be in the wiring correct? Should the solenoid still click if those two wires aren't connected?

it uses the solenoid to go up, if you have power to the small blue wire then the solenoid is bad or there is a bad ground. if there is no power to the blue then there is a wiring or switch problem

[seaduck]

I have a Yamaha 90hp 4-stroke. In doing my own servicing can I find out what type of eng. oil to use and brand and source choice generally for most boaters? Thanks

[Boat Doc']

seaduck, use a good brand of 10-30

[seaduck]

Thanks, Boat Doc'. I could probably find an acceptable oil at Bi-Mart, right? I live in Florence, long way to Coos Bay or Eugene or Newport if I had to use only Yamalube. Do you actually find time to work at Stevens, this forum must take a lot of time. Anyway it is nice to have an expert fielding these questions. seaduck

[Dingis]

Hi there Boat Doc: I recently bought a 2005 merc optimax 115- ran good at first but began to die at operating speed (3/4 to full), and then within a couple of minutes while bringing it to the dock, it wouldn't run at idle. it has a fuel water seperator and a fixed tank- no leaks anywhere and the seperator is good. Any ideas?

[Boat Doc']

seaduck, bimart no problem, stick with a good brand like valvoloine. thanks for the support

[Boat Doc']

dingus, check spark, would guess you lost a cylinder. if not you probably need to see a dealer

[rip n lips]

Alright boat doc you sick of me yet? I stopped at Valley Marine here in Yakima and talked to a couple guys that work there. They told me to check the relay on my engine. When I got home I pulled my cowling off and took a look. There was what appeared to be 1 wire that was corroded and broke. There was 5 or 6 wires all electrical taped together and that 1 wire appeared to be the only bad one. After I cut all the electrical tape off this is what I found...All of the wires need to be replaced. What is my best bet? Take it to an electrical shop or take it to a marine shop? How much do you think I am going to end up spending?

Thanks for all your help and input on my situation...

[rip n lips]

I think this is what I need...CDI 414-2770 Internal Engine Harnesses? I'm not an electrical guru by any means, but is this something that I could possibly tackle myself? How about a 1-10 difficulty rating? :flowered:

[Boat Doc']

ripnlips, with 10 the highest call it a 4

[saman]

Boat Doc,
I'm in the market for some really bright headlights. Is there a manufacturer that makes something for marine use? Everything I have found so far is more or less a glorified fog light. I'm looking for something more like the really bright small ones I see on a lot vehicles these days. The closest thing I have found is the Piaa P-3000. Any ideas?

Thanks.

[Boat Doc']

saman, nothing i'm aware of but your on the right track with aftermarket automotive

[backeddy]

Hey Boat Doc,

I have a 1985 merc 115 inline 6 that is very hard to start. I pump the ball till its hard give it a few cranks and it wont fire. So I then remove the cowling and pull up the manual choke and it will almost fire usually. Now this is when it normally wont turn over I just get a click sound and nothing happens. So I now manuall give the flywheel a little bit of a turn against the compression or wait another second and it will turn over. By the way the battery is very charged. I would love to be able to back in the water and fire this dog without tearing the cowling off everytime...Any suggestions or is this common with the older 115's?

[bobross]

Boat Doc-

I have a 9.9 Merc 2 stroke, 1990 vintage. Can this be converted to a 15 hp? I have heard that on some motors it is as simple as switching carbs. On others, far more complicated and expensive. What is the verdict on the 9.9 Merc 2 stroke? Thanks.

[adobe wall]

2002 90/65 Mercury 2 stroke pump....has always been rock solid dependable and started immediately. I have not let the boat sit for over 2 weeks without running it for over a year, but recently (last 2 weeks) engine has had starting issues.

Will start/run fine, go fishing but when I get ready to run back uphill sometimes it just won't start. Fires then dies and acts like it is flooded. A couple times just letting it sit for 5 minutes while I ran up on the kicker was all it took then it started fine. Today it simply would not restart after I did the downhill troll. Tied off, pulled the cowl and the plugs and they were wet. Dried them off, reinstalled and motor started but immediately died. Same drill again, finally got it started and no issues rest of the evening.

So...any suggestions? I am fairly mechanically minded but don't want the boat out of service right now (who does). Take it to Tigard or is there something I can try on my own?

thanks, aw

[Plumber John]

I have 2005 suzuki 140 hp prop it clicks when I put into gear forward and reverse. It keeps clicking with the throttle going up but still wont go into gear. I checked the cableing it moves fine. Is it that sensative that you have to turn the adjustment nuts a little? Or is it something in the lower unit? Thanks, John:help:

[Rick on Rogue]

Boat Doc: I have 2 batteries in my boat. Only one is hooked up to the system. It starts the motor and runs all the other electrical stuff. The other one is in the front, not wired into system, it runs the Bow-mount trolling motor. Can I put a battery selector on it to keep it charged while I am using the gas motor for trolling? (which I do a lot). I am thinking about wiring in a "Perko" switch. Also, will the gas motor develop enough energy from the onboard charging system to keep them both charged, at 950 to 1000 rpm? (trolling speed)?

Thanks

[Boat Doc']

backeddy, if you have a choke that covers the front of the carbs the starting procedure would be to squeeze the bulb hard till the carbs overflow then crank it over. if you have an enrichener then you turn the key to the on position push it in and hold it in for about 5 seconds then crank it over. if it just clicks when you try to crank it then the solenoid or starter is bad. verify by checking for voltage to the starter when it clicks.

[Boat Doc']

bobross, no, different displacement

[Boat Doc']

adobewall, would guess ignition switch, you could disconnect black with yellow tracer wire at swich box and see if it works. note that engine WILL NOT SHUT OFF UNTIL WIRE IS REATTACHED!

[Boat Doc']

plumberjohn, try shifting it manually with the cable disconnected. if it shifts ok then you have a control or cable issue. if not the problem is in the lower unit

[Boat Doc']

rick on rogue, if you are using a trolling motor the charging output is probably not high enough at idle to overcome the voltage drop thru the switch and the wiring to the front. if you are using a late model electric start engine above 20 horsepower it should work ok

[Rick on Rogue]

Thanks Boat Doc. !!

[hookem]

boat doc,
I have a 2000 50hp force that has ran great for years. Just now with no warning it will not start. If I get it going in a fast idle it smokes like crazy and will not stay running.
Any ideas?
Head Gasket?
lots of smoke!

thanks boat doc

[wayout]

Boatdoc,

I have a Panther 35 electric outboard lift for my kicker. Yesterday on the CR it stuck in the up position and would not lower. No hum, no buzz, no nothing when I push either the up or down button. Looked in the manual, such as it is, to see if there was a fuse that might need replacing. Couldn't find any indication of a fuse. Looks like there's a lot of electrical components that might have failed. What would you suspect as a first thing to look at? Thanks.

[backeddy]

Thanks Boat Doc!!! Really appreciate your response....Have a great day!

[Boat Doc']

hookem, would guess the carb is flooding or the fuel pump ruptered a diaphragm, should be able to hold light pressure on the primer bulb and see whats leaking

[Boat Doc']

wayout, check for power at each lead going to the pump, if you have power the pump is bad if not look for fuses or switches

[seadog]

Boat Doc, please help, I am trying to change the water pump impellor on my 1986 Honda 8 horse. I don't have a manual and cant seem to figure out how to disconnect the shift linkage. I have the lower unit loose and then I took the pin out on the shift linkage under the motor cowl. But it still won't come all the way out, it came about 12" or so then hung up? Also I think my motor is "making oil." The Oil level is way higher than the full mark, it didn't used to be.

[rip n lips]

Boat Doc,
I got that wiring harness in the mail today and gave my best shot at hooking it all up. I managed to connect everything but a few wires that were not color coded on the old harness. I have an Orange wire (Kill circuit for ADI- not used, tape off) according to CDI instructions...I also have a white wire (12V from key-switch) and 1 jumper wire which is red (connect between recitifier + post and the red terminal on the switch box). Below I attatched a pic of my switch box. The brown wire (tach signal) was the only wire that I could clearly make out on the old harness so I attatched that one, but the 2 terminals below it are empty.

P.S. After looking at these directions a time or 2 and reading where these wires go, I have determined that this harness has NOTHING to do with my tilt/trim situation does it?

[Coho Kid]

Boat Doc,
I had my boat on the lake for its first run of the season, the 115 '98 Evinrude seems to be running great, but the volt meter on the dash goes up to 16 volts. I switched batteries and the meter went to 12 volts then came back up to 16 volts when I went above 2500 rpms. I thought the volt meter should be about 12-13 volts, and the high numbers concerned me.
Thanks for all the help you have given to us.

[TAF]

Boat Doc,
My boat has 2 batteries hooked to a perko switch. I have the factory harness from my Honda BF 8 hooked directly to the #2 battery.

I have the perko switch turned to use batt #1 to start the main and run my fish finder and usually leave the perko switch on #1 only. If I turn the switch to both am I causing a issue with this set up ? My concern is that I might be causing harm with the main charging a battery that is hooked to the kicker harness.

No I don't run both motors at the same time.

[Matt J]

Doc,

how difficult would it be (if even possible) to run independent hydraulic steering to the kicker motor from the same helm station. To put it another way, I want one steering wheel to operate both motors with hydraulics as opposed to tie bar.

Thanks

[Boat Doc']

ripnlips, that is correct

[Boat Doc']

coho kid, if you have a voltage regulater it isn't functioning, if you have a round rectifier with 3 wires it's normal to see the voltage that high. You would need a regulater kit to drop it down

[Boat Doc']

taf, no problems, however you might wtch the voltage when switched to both- the troller may not have enough output to overcome the resistance of more than one battery

[Boat Doc']

wa9857, not feasable that i can see. options are tie bar, e-z steer, goetz hydraulic system or tr-1

[bobross]

I am trying to put new pulleys on the front of my 7.4 ltr Volvo Penta.

The crankshaft pulley (the inner one, the outside one came off OK) is stuck. When I crank on it hard with the wrench, the engine turns over. Is there a trick to stop the crank from turning when I am leaning hard on the wrench?

One thing that occurred to me would be to put it in gear and block the prop, but I am worried that I may end up grinding some teeth off in the outdrive gears.

Suggestions appreciated.

[rip n lips]

ripnlips, that is correct


I know the directions are correct, but I don't know which terminal on the switch box to connect which wire to. If I tape off the oarnge wire like the instructions say, that means one of the 2 terminals would be empty. That can't be right because they all had a wire to them originally...

[Dinikin]

Hello Boat Doc.
1 Is there a kit or parts that need to be replaced to make my 96 90HP ELPTO 2trk more Ethanol friendly.
2 How to tell if my 05 Merc 8hp has charging capabilities. And if not what do I need to get.
Thanks.

[RGB]

Dear Boat Doc, I have strong stream of water squirting straight up from the small hole on the starboard side of my jet pump housing. This hole is on the opposite side of the grease fitting and flushing port. Is this a sign of an impending problem? I have never seen this before on any of my outboard jet's.

[Scott Rickard]

Hi Boat Doc - I recently dropped the lower unit on my 76 Merc 850 to change the impeller, gaskets, etc. I put the shifter in full forward prior to dropping the lower unit, and I did move the driveshaft clockwise a fair amount during the reassembly process. Upon reassembling, of course, I now have the dreaded "stuck in forward gear" problem.

Others have written that the fix is to "turn the shifter spline" to the furthest counterclockwise point, and then reinstall the lower unit with the shifter in forward.

Edit: I found the spline (I assume it's the small splined shaft at the front of the L/U), turned it full counterclockwise (until the prop turns clockwise with a clicking sound), reinstalled L/U with throttle in full forward, and I'm still stuck in forward.

I'm done messing with it and will probably be taking it in to you guys...

[bobross]

Never mind. I got it loose.

[Pursuit]

Hey There Boat Doc,
I have 1998 175 Sportjet and I was out fishing after the boat set in the garage at the coast for a few months. Well the motor started ok the first time or two but then it would not start due to low battery. I even had to pull start my kicker. So will the Sportjet run if the battery is low? Dose the alternator put out enough to run the motor if you can get it to turn over enough to get it fired?
Thanks for all your help. :)

[CKthumper]

Doc-

Busy time of year, huh? I have a '93 8 hp Johnson that starts and runs OK, but at idle it sputters and knocks and smokes something awful. I found an ajusting screw on the carb that helps a bit sometimes, but never fixes it. Seems to me to be running way too rich. I don't think I'm putting too much oil in the gas (50/1). Brown's Landing (several years ago) said maybe the thermostat wasn't working, so it was running too cold... Any ideas?

[rip n lips]

I know the directions are correct, but I don't know which terminal on the switch box to connect which wire to. If I tape off the oarnge wire like the instructions say, that means one of the 2 terminals would be empty. That can't be right because they all had a wire to them originally...


OK found a little help on the situation, let me know if this is right. Starting from the top on the starboard side of the switch box. Green wire to coil, Brown wire to tach, red wire from harness THEN red jumper from same terminal to rectifier, last but not least white 12v from key switch.

[Boat Doc']

bobross, air impact or block the prop should work no problem

[Boat Doc']

dinikin, if ypou replace the hoses with new fuel hose they would be the latest resistant hose. the 8 does not have charging capability unless it's electric start. kit runs about 200.00

[Boat Doc']

rgb, water coming out of the vent hole means the seal or seals have failed. needs to come apart and be resealed

[Boat Doc']

pursuit, there is an electric fuel pump that requires battery voltage, however once it is running the battery is not needed

[Boat Doc']

ckthumper, if it's running rich it has to be the carb, or fuel pump.

[Boat Doc']

ripnlips, yes that is correct

[overfitty]

Say, Doc...My '00 Yamaha 4-stroke 115 pump is using 2 qts of oil every 3rd time out. I'm trolling with it all day...3 days...one day each weekend, and I have to add 2 qts. Do I got a problem?? The oil is Amzoil 10-30...THANKS!!

[Dinikin]

Hi BoatDoc.
In regards to Mercury 4stokes 8-10 hp kickers.
It is hard to get it to troll at low speeds. What kind of adjustment is recommened?
Also when loading the motor 1/2 or 1/3 of the way and then going back to idle or neutral, motor dies. Carburator cleaning?
I heard alot of people complaining for simular reocurring issue (carbs plugging up), is there some permanent solution you would advice.
Thank you.

[backeddy]

Hey Boat Doc,

I have a 1985 Merc 115 that when i replaced the starter I noticed two wires comming from the wire harness were broken. These wires were not attached to the starter but to a small receptical to the left of the starter. They were both yellow with a red stripe and appeared to go up to the flywheel, possibly the stator? Both the wires are extremely decayed and the copper filament seems to be very deteriorated. Can I replace these two wire's without having to replace the entire stator or wire harness? Thanks Boat Doc.

[Williedrifter]

Eh boat doc,

Yesterday I replaced the spark plugs on my 1999 Mercury 9.9, s stroke kicker. I noticed a bit of condensation on each of the plugs? the motor runs good and has never had an issue?

[Boat Doc']

Say, Doc...My '00 Yamaha 4-stroke 115 pump is using 2 qts of oil every 3rd time out. I'm trolling with it all day...3 days...one day each weekend, and I have to add 2 qts. Do I got a problem?? The oil is Amzoil 10-30...THANKS!!

I would put some fuel cleaner in the gas and run it hard for about an hour after an oil change. If it persists do a lek down test. Also make sure you arew checking the oil level the same way- sitting the same amount of time and the same angle of tilt.

[Boat Doc']

Hi BoatDoc.
In regards to Mercury 4stokes 8-10 hp kickers.
It is hard to get it to troll at low speeds. What kind of adjustment is recommened?
Also when loading the motor 1/2 or 1/3 of the way and then going back to idle or neutral, motor dies. Carburator cleaning?
I heard alot of people complaining for simular reocurring issue (carbs plugging up), is there some permanent solution you would advice.
Thank you.

You could try adjusting the idle mixture. It may have a brass plug over it that needs to be drilled out. If that doesn't work then you will need to remove and thoroughly clean the carb. You can avoid having to do this by running a fuel cleaner thru you tank every few tanks.

[Boat Doc']

Hey Boat Doc,

I have a 1985 Merc 115 that when i replaced the starter I noticed two wires comming from the wire harness were broken. These wires were not attached to the starter but to a small receptical to the left of the starter. They were both yellow with a red stripe and appeared to go up to the flywheel, possibly the stator? Both the wires are extremely decayed and the copper filament seems to be very deteriorated. Can I replace these two wire's without having to replace the entire stator or wire harness? Thanks Boat Doc.

Yellow wires going under the flywheel would be for the charging system and would attach to the rectifier or regulater. If you can splice them it would be fine. Yellowe woires with a red stripe are for the start circuit and go to the key and solenoid.

[Boat Doc']

Eh boat doc,

Yesterday I replaced the spark plugs on my 1999 Mercury 9.9, s stroke kicker. I noticed a bit of condensation on each of the plugs? the motor runs good and has never had an issue?

Probably not an issue so long as it runs good.If it should start to misfire then you look look for a stuck thermostat or bad gasket.

[chummer]

Doc, I have a 99 15 hp merc 4 stroke kicker. This year it seems to be taking a long time to warm up. It starts up fine after 4-5 pulls, a minute later, i'll cut the chock about 1/2 way and let it continue to warm up, 2-3 minutes later i'll attempt to push the chock all the way in (No chock) and it will stall if I don't re-chock it. I have to keep working the chock for another 5 minutes before it is sufficiently warmed to operate normally. For the remainder of the day, it operates flawlessly. I have ran some seafoam through the kicker fuel line which does not seem to have helped. Any ideas?

[Boat Doc']

Doc, I have a 99 15 hp merc 4 stroke kicker. This year it seems to be taking a long time to warm up. It starts up fine after 4-5 pulls, a minute later, i'll cut the chock about 1/2 way and let it continue to warm up, 2-3 minutes later i'll attempt to push the chock all the way in (No chock) and it will stall if I don't re-chock it. I have to keep working the chock for another 5 minutes before it is sufficiently warmed to operate normally. For the remainder of the day, it operates flawlessly. I have ran some seafoam through the kicker fuel line which does not seem to have helped. Any ideas?

If you set the idle mixture screw richer it should cure the problem

[No Reservations]

I have a 2001 yamaha t8 recently noticed water in the oil changed it ran it same problem. . I have been told that these motors have had problems with the t stat not operating properly thus causing the rings not to seal is it worth my time replacing the t stat 40.00 dollars and hoping for the best.
Thanks wes

[Boat Doc']

I have a 2001 yamaha t8 recently noticed water in the oil changed it ran it same problem. . I have been told that these motors have had problems with the t stat not operating properly thus causing the rings not to seal is it worth my time replacing the t stat 40.00 dollars and hoping for the best.
Thanks wes

If it's running cold then yes replace the thermostat. If not then the powerhead base gasket may be the problem

[skunkedalot]

Hey Doc, I have a 2003 240 sportjet, while cruising up river for some distance say, 6-8 miles at 5000 rpm, the rpm's drop off instantly down to about 4000 or so without touching the throttle setting. This has happened on 2 of my last 3 outings if I try to push it up it just bogs further,After coming off throttle and going back up seems to run O.K., also it will not run at 6000 at all,I mean it will drop the rpms to around 5000 like it's limited. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks Joe

[No Reservations]

If it's running cold then yes replace the thermostat. If not then the powerhead base gasket may be the problem


How do you tell if it running cold ?

[Boat Doc']

Hey Doc, I have a 2003 240 sportjet, while cruising up river for some distance say, 6-8 miles at 5000 rpm, the rpm's drop off instantly down to about 4000 or so without touching the throttle setting. This has happened on 2 of my last 3 outings if I try to push it up it just bogs further,After coming off throttle and going back up seems to run O.K., also it will not run at 6000 at all,I mean it will drop the rpms to around 5000 like it's limited. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks Joe

Instant drop off would more than likely be ignition related, try pulling plug wires off to find the dead one. More than likely an ignition coil

[Boat Doc']

How do you tell if it running cold ?

should be running around 130 degrees, to hot to rest your hand on. If it feels cool or lukewarm it is cold

[skunkedalot]

I've pulled plug wires off a car before,along time ago,but I was'nt that bright then. Is there a way to do this without getting "bit"?

[Boat Doc']

I've pulled plug wires off a car before,along time ago,but I was'nt that bright then. Is there a way to do this without getting "bit"?

They make insulated pliers for this purpose

[Hookafish]

Hello boat doc i have a 2003 merc 9.9 two stroke and i took it out yesterday and it ran fine but as i tryed to slow my speed for herring roll it died and again after i got it going again it died on its own two more times. It runs good at higher rpms but low rpms it chokes and dies. I have changed spark plugs but not sure what else i can do, help boat doc thank you in advance.

[Boat Doc']

Hello boat doc i have a 2003 merc 9.9 two stroke and i took it out yesterday and it ran fine but as i tryed to slow my speed for herring roll it died and again after i got it going again it died on its own two more times. It runs good at higher rpms but low rpms it chokes and dies. I have changed spark plugs but not sure what else i can do, help boat doc thank you in advance.

The carb will need to be removed and thoroughly cleaned.

[still floatin]

Doc,
I was running my late 70's merc 150 hard for a good 45 minutes, Almost back to the ramp I powered down and was idling along when the motor died. It was as if someone just pulled the plug on the motor. Strange because the motor has been running great all season. I am sure the motor is getting fuel and air but the sudden loss of spark has me stumped. do have any suggestions.
Thanks in advance this is a great thread
Jacob

[skunkedalot]

Problem found on my 240 sj. A second fuel filter that has never been replaced. A small inline filter that I was unaware of was the culprit. Thanks for all the ideas.

[pwrline]

Hi boat doc,. I have a customweld with am turbine sd309 and I am hearing a whine sound when running, from idle to max rpm the pitch changes but sound remains.I have kept pump greased according to spec.,there is 240 hrs on 350 engine and pump .I am suspecting a thrust bearing ? What do you think ? How hard are these pumps to work on?

[Dinikin]

Boat Doc.
I have no problems with my motors as of now.
And just wanted to say "Thank you" for your help.
I have dealt with sales guys at Stevens and they are top notch.
Have a great week.
Dinikin.

[Boat Doc']

Doc,
I was running my late 70's merc 150 hard for a good 45 minutes, Almost back to the ramp I powered down and was idling along when the motor died. It was as if someone just pulled the plug on the motor. Strange because the motor has been running great all season. I am sure the motor is getting fuel and air but the sudden loss of spark has me stumped. do have any suggestions.
Thanks in advance this is a great thread
Jacob

Lanyard switch, ignition switch, switch box, stator or low battery depending on which ignition system you have

[Boat Doc']

Hi boat doc,. I have a customweld with am turbine sd309 and I am hearing a whine sound when running, from idle to max rpm the pitch changes but sound remains.I have kept pump greased according to spec.,there is 240 hrs on 350 engine and pump .I am suspecting a thrust bearing ? What do you think ? How hard are these pumps to work on?

If it didn't do it before I would guess the bearing, may have to pull the engine to access it

[Dingis]

Hi there Boat Doc,
I have a 2004 Optimax 115 that is losing power and dying after a couple minutes of operation. I checked the plugs and the number two (middle) plug is a little wet. Also, a continuous audible alarm (beep beep beep.....) sounds when the engine begins to miss and eventually dies. After a couple of minutes of being turned off, the engine runs fine for another five or so minutes. What do you think is up?
Thanks, Dingis

[Boat Doc']

Hi there Boat Doc,
I have a 2004 Optimax 115 that is losing power and dying after a couple minutes of operation. I checked the plugs and the number two (middle) plug is a little wet. Also, a continuous audible alarm (beep beep beep.....) sounds when the engine begins to miss and eventually dies. After a couple of minutes of being turned off, the engine runs fine for another five or so minutes. What do you think is up?
Thanks, Dingis

Best guess would be water in fuel, it has a sensor in the vapor canister that senses it. Need to drain and flush with fresh fuel

[E4usmc0651]

Boat doc,

I have a 6hp yamaha 4 stroke that i took off a boat I sold. The label on the side said to store it laying on it's side or upright. I stored it laying on the side and went back in the garage a day or two later to find it was leaking oil!!! i got it put onto my new alumaweld sport jet and it is still leaking oil down the shaft and pooling on the floor. I will wipe ip all up go to bed look at it as I am getting into the car in the morning and once again it has leaked down the shaft and onto the floor. Is there anything that I should do other than refilling the oil before I try to use it again? I took off the cowling and dont see any oil pooled in the motor. Where could it be coming from? Is it maybe just the rest of what leaked from when it was on it's side? I wouldn't be sooo concerned if the sticker didn't say that storing it wrong could cause oil to leak and could cause engine damage. I hope all is well since it ran PERFECT before I took it off the old boat.

[ChuckDog]

I have a 1986 Johnson 7 HP kicker. FOREVER I would simply pull the choke once, pull the start cord twice and it ran fine. Last year the water pump went out. Took it to get serviced at the only Johnson service dealer around. Comments made by the mechanics on the bill were that 'they replaced the water pump and plugs. Seemed to run a little rough'. Funny thing was that it never ran rough before.
I didn't take it out immediately to validate they even did anything, instead I waited a couple of months and tested it out up in the Puget Sound. It was spitting water again, but I could barely keep it running. I never did get full power out of it and if there were more than one person in the boat, it couldn't push us around at all.
Flushed the motor when I got home (attempted to at least) and could never get it to start up for more than a few seconds at a time. That's when I noticed 'oil' bubbles all over the surface of the water - not gasoline - black oily patches everywhere. The shaft is now covered in it.
So what might be the likely cause of something like this? Did I hose it by running it for a day up in the sound? Never noticed any oil bubbling up to the surface than (maybe didn't notice)? Wondering if a seal was crimped upon throwing everything back together when it was serviced?

[Boat Doc']

Boat doc,

I have a 6hp yamaha 4 stroke that i took off a boat I sold. The label on the side said to store it laying on it's side or upright. I stored it laying on the side and went back in the garage a day or two later to find it was leaking oil!!! i got it put onto my new alumaweld sport jet and it is still leaking oil down the shaft and pooling on the floor. I will wipe ip all up go to bed look at it as I am getting into the car in the morning and once again it has leaked down the shaft and onto the floor. Is there anything that I should do other than refilling the oil before I try to use it again? I took off the cowling and dont see any oil pooled in the motor. Where could it be coming from? Is it maybe just the rest of what leaked from when it was on it's side? I wouldn't be sooo concerned if the sticker didn't say that storing it wrong could cause oil to leak and could cause engine damage. I hope all is well since it ran PERFECT before I took it off the old boat.

It's probably residual from laying on its side. Make sure its full and enjoy

[Boat Doc']

I have a 1986 Johnson 7 HP kicker. FOREVER I would simply pull the choke once, pull the start cord twice and it ran fine. Last year the water pump went out. Took it to get serviced at the only Johnson service dealer around. Comments made by the mechanics on the bill were that 'they replaced the water pump and plugs. Seemed to run a little rough'. Funny thing was that it never ran rough before.
I didn't take it out immediately to validate they even did anything, instead I waited a couple of months and tested it out up in the Puget Sound. It was spitting water again, but I could barely keep it running. I never did get full power out of it and if there were more than one person in the boat, it couldn't push us around at all.
Flushed the motor when I got home (attempted to at least) and could never get it to start up for more than a few seconds at a time. That's when I noticed 'oil' bubbles all over the surface of the water - not gasoline - black oily patches everywhere. The shaft is now covered in it.
So what might be the likely cause of something like this? Did I hose it by running it for a day up in the sound? Never noticed any oil bubbling up to the surface than (maybe didn't notice)? Wondering if a seal was crimped upon throwing everything back together when it was serviced?

Lower unit should be removed and inspected or pressure tested to see where it's leaking and fix as necessary. As for the roughrunning I would guess it may have water in the fuel or an ignition problem, weak spark, no spark etc.

[still floatin]

Lanyard switch, ignition switch, switch box, stator or low battery depending on which ignition system you have
Thanks alot boat doc. I replaced the switch box with a used one I found for about 200 bucks. she is running great.:meme:

[snohonative]

Thanks for all the help in the past. I have a 2004 Sport Jet 175hp. Today I was changing the oil out of the stator and I noticed it has a little milk coloartion to it. Can you steer me in the right direction as to what might have caused this. The boat seems to run great.

Thank You

[Boat Doc']

Thanks for all the help in the past. I have a 2004 Sport Jet 175hp. Today I was changing the oil out of the stator and I noticed it has a little milk coloartion to it. Can you steer me in the right direction as to what might have caused this. The boat seems to run great.

Thank You

I would change it making sure you use new seals on the screwsl. Run it and check the condition. It may be necessary to replace the seals if it's still milkey

[No Reservations]

Hi doc
i have a 2005 yamaha 150 four stroke I am running last years fuel this was my fourth trip out on last years fuel ran perfectly the first three trips different story this weekend ran fine saturday then sunday it began to lose rpms could bearly get on plane although if I would let of the throttle a couple of inches and punch it again it would gain some speed but unless I continued to do this it would slowly lose speed and rpms. I have a t8 kicker which ran fine all weekend running through the same fuel filter i changed the main fuel filter and dumped and cleaned out the small one on the motor. still had the same problem. I disconnected the fuel line when i got home to drain the fuel could not get a siphon going from the fuel tank wondering if that is uncommon finally had to pump it out with the fuel ball through a clear hose which always had air mixed in with the fuel ? is this also the norm. I have not topped the tank off this year so I ran about 50 gallons this year I am thinking fuel but you are the doc.
Thanks for looking:pray:

[Boat Doc']

Hi doc
i have a 2005 yamaha 150 four stroke I am running last years fuel this was my fourth trip out on last years fuel ran perfectly the first three trips different story this weekend ran fine saturday then sunday it began to lose rpms could bearly get on plane although if I would let of the throttle a couple of inches and punch it again it would gain some speed but unless I continued to do this it would slowly lose speed and rpms. I have a t8 kicker which ran fine all weekend running through the same fuel filter i changed the main fuel filter and dumped and cleaned out the small one on the motor. still had the same problem. I disconnected the fuel line when i got home to drain the fuel could not get a siphon going from the fuel tank wondering if that is uncommon finally had to pump it out with the fuel ball through a clear hose which always had air mixed in with the fuel ? is this also the norm. I have not topped the tank off this year so I ran about 50 gallons this year I am thinking fuel but you are the doc.
Thanks for looking:pray:

Assuming it's not out of gas I would pull the fuel pickup and look closely for cracks. The fact that you are pulling air would mean there is a air leak between the bulb and the tank. If you don't find anything try running it on a seperate tank to see if it still does it.

[Rick on Rogue]

HI doc, I have a boat with a 2000 Merk 40 horse 4 stroke, and two batteries, one for cranking the motor, is hooked to the motor ( of course it is), the other is in the bow compartment for the bow mounted trolling motor. I have to charge that with an outside source, it works good but inconvenient. Can I run additional wires from cranking battery to trolling battery and will the alternaror charge both batteries while trolling with the gas motor? The gas motor is usually running about 1000 rpm while trolling. Also, should I put a switch inline to the trolling (elec) motor battery, to break the connection while trolling with the electric motor?

Thanks

[Boat Doc']

HI doc, I have a boat with a 2000 Merk 40 horse 4 stroke, and two batteries, one for cranking the motor, is hooked to the motor ( of course it is), the other is in the bow compartment for the bow mounted trolling motor. I have to charge that with an outside source, it works good but inconvenient. Can I run additional wires from cranking battery to trolling battery and will the alternaror charge both batteries while trolling with the gas motor? The gas motor is usually running about 1000 rpm while trolling. Also, should I put a switch inline to the trolling (elec) motor battery, to break the connection while trolling with the electric motor?

Thanks

Yes, but- the alternater may not give it a full charge, you still may have to charge it seperately even if switched to that battery only at trolling speeds

[Trick]

Boat Doc, I have an older Mercury (early 80's) 85HP outboard that developed an issue with the lower unit. I'm not the mechanically inclined type when it comes to outboards.

Here is the issue. I ran this motor last September with no issues. I went to change the lower unit fluid today and it was nearly dry with the exception of maybe 4oz of lightly colored water. Knowing that something was wrong I went ahead and filled it back up, fired up the engine and now I don't have forward or reverse and the lower unit gear oil was nearly all blown out and the remaining 1/4 amount or so was milky.

I already know this is a shop job, but I guess I'm perplexed as to why last fall it was shifting fine during the last use. It is stored outside and under cover.

Could the freeze last winter have caused this issue? During the first day of the cold snap I lowered the motor and water ran out. I'm wondering if some remaining amount could have caused this?

Thanks for the insight and I'll post the findings in a few weeks when I get it in and repaired.

[HntnFsh]

Good morning Doc',

I have a 98 Willie Predator with a 175 sj.
The throttle cable broke the other day.I have a new one ordered from your store.Should be here sometime next week.

I had a heck of a time getting the end at the shifter loose.Havent even tried the motor end yet.At least its a little easier to get to.

Was wondering if you had any tips or tricks to getting the old one out.Putting the new one in?

Also how about adjustment? I cant find anything in the factory service manual.Related to the throttle cable.

Thanks a bunch.I appreciate your help.The parts guys were great to work with too.(again)

HntnFsh

[Prowler44]

Boat Doc,

I have a 1975 Mercury 402 40 hp. Yesterday heading back to the ramp the motor seemed to lose power, so I backed off the throttle and it seemed to run fine and I was almost at the ramp. When I pulled the boat out, I noticed a sludge like substance coming out of the two exhaust ports as well as some inside the prop.

When I got home, I put muffs on the motor and it still fires right up and idles smooth and revs with no visible sludge coming out. Seems like it must of happened at speed on the back.

Compression on both cylinders is 150. Plugs look fine too.

I drained the lower gear oil and it's just oil, no water.

Thoughts of what might be going on? The boat is a 1962 Seaswirl CAT and the motor is a short shaft and at speed, there is a lot of water that splashes over the transom. My only thought is a splash at the right spot went right into the carb.

Thanks,
Prowler44

[brushpuppy]

Doc,
I just acquired a 1965 Mercury 90hp EL that is in extremely good shape. Who can you recommend (Portland area) as being experts on a motor of this make and vintage? I'm looking for practical knowledge of this motors do's and don'ts.
Thx_

[bshiftbc]

Boat Doc-
I have an merc 6 hp kicker on a boat purchased from you guys new in 2001. When stored in the down (running) position, a small amount of watery oil emerges from the spot the prop attaches. What is wrong?

[TAF]

I have a 3 stage kodiak pump in my boat. I have the engine out for some repair. I tried to rotate the pump input shaft and can't get it to turn even when applying waht I think should be sufficient force. Should'nt I be able to turn the pump shaft fairly easily ? This unit has 161 hours. Never given me any trouble, but I am wondering if I have astuck bearing ??? Its been greased regularly, and has not been ran out of water.

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc, I have an older Mercury (early 80's) 85HP outboard that developed an issue with the lower unit. I'm not the mechanically inclined type when it comes to outboards.

Here is the issue. I ran this motor last September with no issues. I went to change the lower unit fluid today and it was nearly dry with the exception of maybe 4oz of lightly colored water. Knowing that something was wrong I went ahead and filled it back up, fired up the engine and now I don't have forward or reverse and the lower unit gear oil was nearly all blown out and the remaining 1/4 amount or so was milky.

I already know this is a shop job, but I guess I'm perplexed as to why last fall it was shifting fine during the last use. It is stored outside and under cover.

Could the freeze last winter have caused this issue? During the first day of the cold snap I lowered the motor and water ran out. I'm wondering if some remaining amount could have caused this?

Thanks for the insight and I'll post the findings in a few weeks when I get it in and repaired.

The water could have froze and pushed the seals out. Doesn't explain why it won't shift. Could it be the reverse lock hooks are resting on the tilt pin? You could try lifting it up and see if it shifts or pull down on the hooks and see if it shifts. It may be something minor

[Boat Doc']

Good morning Doc',

I have a 98 Willie Predator with a 175 sj.
The throttle cable broke the other day.I have a new one ordered from your store.Should be here sometime next week.

I had a heck of a time getting the end at the shifter loose.Havent even tried the motor end yet.At least its a little easier to get to.

Was wondering if you had any tips or tricks to getting the old one out.Putting the new one in?

Also how about adjustment? I cant find anything in the factory service manual.Related to the throttle cable.

Thanks a bunch.I appreciate your help.The parts guys were great to work with too.(again)

HntnFsh

Should be fairly simple to rteinstall. You may be able to tie the new one to the old one and pull it thru. If not you need to access the area it's routed in to install it. You want to adjust it at idle so there is light pressure against the stop.

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc,

I have a 1975 Mercury 402 40 hp. Yesterday heading back to the ramp the motor seemed to lose power, so I backed off the throttle and it seemed to run fine and I was almost at the ramp. When I pulled the boat out, I noticed a sludge like substance coming out of the two exhaust ports as well as some inside the prop.

When I got home, I put muffs on the motor and it still fires right up and idles smooth and revs with no visible sludge coming out. Seems like it must of happened at speed on the back.

Compression on both cylinders is 150. Plugs look fine too.

I drained the lower gear oil and it's just oil, no water.

Thoughts of what might be going on? The boat is a 1962 Seaswirl CAT and the motor is a short shaft and at speed, there is a lot of water that splashes over the transom. My only thought is a splash at the right spot went right into the carb.

Thanks,
Prowler44

Probably just oil residue that built up in the exhaust housing then ran out. If it's been used for trolling it would build up more. Bottom line- if it runs good leave it alone

[Boat Doc']

Doc,
I just acquired a 1965 Mercury 90hp EL that is in extremely good shape. Who can you recommend (Portland area) as being experts on a motor of this make and vintage? I'm looking for practical knowledge of this motors do's and don'ts.
Thx_

I don't know of anybody that works on one that old. Basic do's are use good oil and fuel, keep the gear oil full. If it needs major repairs it may be time to walk away

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc-
I have an merc 6 hp kicker on a boat purchased from you guys new in 2001. When stored in the down (running) position, a small amount of watery oil emerges from the spot the prop attaches. What is wrong?

If the gear oil is full what you're seeing is normal. Just unburned oil running out the exhaust

[Boat Doc']

I have a 3 stage kodiak pump in my boat. I have the engine out for some repair. I tried to rotate the pump input shaft and can't get it to turn even when applying waht I think should be sufficient force. Should'nt I be able to turn the pump shaft fairly easily ? This unit has 161 hours. Never given me any trouble, but I am wondering if I have astuck bearing ??? Its been greased regularly, and has not been ran out of water.

It may be the cutlass bearings are dry- they are water lubricated. You could remove the stator housings if you need to work on the pump.

[fishing is life]

Hello Mr. Boat Doc,

Thank you for all your hard work and helpful info on here.

My question for you is when I am anchored on the river, is it best for my kicker in the down position in neutral or forward? I am not sure if the prop spinning is good or not. Thanks in advance. :flowered:

[clipped]

Hey Doc,
Well to start this off my 2000 19' duck with the 175 sport jet was just clicking as I tried to start it. Charged the batts and still just clicked. Ordered a new solenoid from Stevens and swapped it in. Hooked it up to water and started the boat w/o issues - ran it for about a minute turned the key off and the motor wouldn't shut off. All the gauges turn on and off - but the switch won't kill the motor when I turn the key to the off position?? I checked the wires underneath the dash and back by the motor and they are all fine and connected. Also checked grounds?? Is it the switch and is there an easy way to put it in knowing that it is not a plug in?

[bshiftbc]

Boat doc- Its not coming from the exhaust....its oozing from the hub of the prop. Maybe some sort of seal?
Thanks, Dean

[rwoodcutter2]

stevens marine
i have a 19ft searay with a 3litre 4cyl 13 1/4x17degree pitch my question is that it seems under powered when there is more than two people, two or three people i can go approx: 32 mph but it took a little bit to plane so i put a stingray hydrofoil on went to odell and i could go approx:12mph with 5 people,what do you think i should try now it seemed to bog down a open throttle so i backed off the throttle do you think the carb should be looked at or a smaller pitch anything would help?:cool:

[Boat Doc']

Hello Mr. Boat Doc,

Thank you for all your hard work and helpful info on here.

My question for you is when I am anchored on the river, is it best for my kicker in the down position in neutral or forward? I am not sure if the prop spinning is good or not. Thanks in advance. :flowered:

When anchored it won't hurt it to spin, however don't leave it down when running the main engine

[Boat Doc']

Hey Doc,
Well to start this off my 2000 19' duck with the 175 sport jet was just clicking as I tried to start it. Charged the batts and still just clicked. Ordered a new solenoid from Stevens and swapped it in. Hooked it up to water and started the boat w/o issues - ran it for about a minute turned the key off and the motor wouldn't shut off. All the gauges turn on and off - but the switch won't kill the motor when I turn the key to the off position?? I checked the wires underneath the dash and back by the motor and they are all fine and connected. Also checked grounds?? Is it the switch and is there an easy way to put it in knowing that it is not a plug in?

Check the plug in at the engine and clean if necessary. After that check the grounds. If it still does it you could check the switch

[Boat Doc']

Boat doc- Its not coming from the exhaust....its oozing from the hub of the prop. Maybe some sort of seal?
Thanks, Dean

If the lower unit is full it has to be unburnt oil running out of the exhaust.

[Boat Doc']

stevens marine
i have a 19ft searay with a 3litre 4cyl 13 1/4x17degree pitch my question is that it seems under powered when there is more than two people, two or three people i can go approx: 32 mph but it took a little bit to plane so i put a stingray hydrofoil on went to odell and i could go approx:12mph with 5 people,what do you think i should try now it seemed to bog down a open throttle so i backed off the throttle do you think the carb should be looked at or a smaller pitch anything would help?:cool:

I think you need a smaller pitch prop. Try a 15 pitch

[rags]

Boat Doc,
I recently had my Mercury 9.9 serviced as it was running rough. They cleaned the carb and did a tune-up. Runs better but when I turn the throttle to the lowest setting it stalls. Also, the throttle is sticky. Doesn't turn smoothly. Can this be fixed and should it stall at no throttle?

[EpicDay]

Dear Boat Doc
Background:

-1999 Mercury 140 Jet (200 hp powerhead) OG789205
-During recent trip to Odell and Wickiup Lake the warning horn was activated after a short 10 min run across the lake. (no warning horn for several previous days of operation)
-Dash temperature gauge reading was normal. Water was exiting in a steady stream from engine.
-Limped back to the dock. (thankfully this happened on the last day of the trip)


Current understanding of this model the warning horn can be activated by the following:
1) High temperature (powerhead mounted temperature switch)
2) Low oil level in engine mounted oil reservoir
3) Oil injection pump motion sensor failure

Upon investigation a low oil level was discovered in the engine mounted oil reservoir. A review of the feed lines and remote oil reservoir show no sign of damage or leaking. All caps are secure.
Started motor (ran at idle) and removed engine mounted oil reservoir cap. NO oil feed occurred after several minutes.

Questions:

What should be the next steps?
Should I replace the 4 psi check valve on the oil feed line?
Should I replace the remote oil reservoir pick up tube and filter?


Thanks

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc,
I recently had my Mercury 9.9 serviced as it was running rough. They cleaned the carb and did a tune-up. Runs better but when I turn the throttle to the lowest setting it stalls. Also, the throttle is sticky. Doesn't turn smoothly. Can this be fixed and should it stall at no throttle?

The throttle can be fixed to turn smoothly and no it shouldn't stall at any speed. It's either idling to slow, is improperly adjusted or is plugged up

[Boat Doc']

Dear Boat Doc
Background:

-1999 Mercury 140 Jet (200 hp powerhead) OG789205
-During recent trip to Odell and Wickiup Lake the warning horn was activated after a short 10 min run across the lake. (no warning horn for several previous days of operation)
-Dash temperature gauge reading was normal. Water was exiting in a steady stream from engine.
-Limped back to the dock. (thankfully this happened on the last day of the trip)


Current understanding of this model the warning horn can be activated by the following:
1) High temperature (powerhead mounted temperature switch)
2) Low oil level in engine mounted oil reservoir
3) Oil injection pump motion sensor failure

Upon investigation a low oil level was discovered in the engine mounted oil reservoir. A review of the feed lines and remote oil reservoir show no sign of damage or leaking. All caps are secure.
Started motor (ran at idle) and removed engine mounted oil reservoir cap. NO oil feed occurred after several minutes.

Questions:

What should be the next steps?
Should I replace the 4 psi check valve on the oil feed line?
Should I replace the remote oil reservoir pick up tube and filter?


Thanks

Make suree the caps are tite on the boat reservoir. Run the engine for about 2 minutes and immediately after shut down loosen one of the caps and see if it is pressurized. If it is remove the pickup and check the screen for gelling and clean as necessary. If it's not pressurized inspect the check valve in the block and replace it if it's blown out. Also inspect all lines for kinks and holes. The 4 psi check valve is likely not the problem

[jtj]

Dear Doc,
I have a 2000 50hp honda 4 stroke I just got used. The motor seems to run fine, but the tach only shows 2500 rpm and the speedo shows about 1/2 of the GPS mph. I was told about the 5 switch settings on the back of the tach. I have tried all the settings without any luck. The closest I got was about 4000 rpm full throttle. The book says WOT is 5500-5800 rpm. This motor runs a 16' Hewscraft with 2 people about 26 mph wide open. Is my tach and speedo shot, or could this motor not be running wide open like I think it is.
Thanks
Joe

[snohonative]

Hi Doc,

Thanks again for all the help in the past. I have a 2004 175 Sportjet. The steering cable out the back of the boat where it connects to the rudder is bending and not giving me full travel for steering. I examined it and noticed the metal tubing under the rubber boat has broken off the fitting and is allowing it to bend. Can I replace just that end or do I need to replace the whole cable? I tried to epoxy it and it just broke off again. Thanks for the helpl

[Boat Doc']

Dear Doc,
I have a 2000 50hp honda 4 stroke I just got used. The motor seems to run fine, but the tach only shows 2500 rpm and the speedo shows about 1/2 of the GPS mph. I was told about the 5 switch settings on the back of the tach. I have tried all the settings without any luck. The closest I got was about 4000 rpm full throttle. The book says WOT is 5500-5800 rpm. This motor runs a 16' Hewscraft with 2 people about 26 mph wide open. Is my tach and speedo shot, or could this motor not be running wide open like I think it is.
Thanks
Joe
Sounds like it's running the way it should so you either have a bad or wrong tach. You would need to verify it with a shop tach to be sure

[Boat Doc']

Hi Doc,

Thanks again for all the help in the past. I have a 2004 175 Sportjet. The steering cable out the back of the boat where it connects to the rudder is bending and not giving me full travel for steering. I examined it and noticed the metal tubing under the rubber boat has broken off the fitting and is allowing it to bend. Can I replace just that end or do I need to replace the whole cable? I tried to epoxy it and it just broke off again. Thanks for the helpl
If you are describing the end of the cable and it has come apart the cable would need to be replaced

[FreshWater]

I have a 1990 20 bayliner w/ the oh so popular force 150:bricks:. It has two dead cylinders due to detonation I am told. Took the head off and cyl 1 and 2 are melted and the cyl is scored. 1) should I rebuild? 2) should I purchase a rebuilt powerhead? 3) should I just shop around for a "good used" motor?

thanks in advance

[Robalo Bill]

I have a 1994 Mercury outboard OG00574. While flushing I lost cooling water. I pulled the lower unit and found the impeller with cooked broken fingers. The top of the pump also had some heat damage. I have a pretty intensive service manual...but it shows to replace the lower housing and seals to remove 4bolts. My lower casing only has the oil filler plug in the side no bolts. I'm hoping to just change the impeller and upper casing, I buffed out the groves in the drive shaft at the top of the casing. Should I change the lower housing ...if so how does it come off?

Regards
Bill

http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/Waterpumpbase2.jpg

http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/Waterpumpbase1.jpg

[Boat Doc']

I have a 1990 20 bayliner w/ the oh so popular force 150:bricks:. It has two dead cylinders due to detonation I am told. Took the head off and cyl 1 and 2 are melted and the cyl is scored. 1) should I rebuild? 2) should I purchase a rebuilt powerhead? 3) should I just shop around for a "good used" motor?

thanks in advance

Reman would run about 2200 plus labor and misc parts. Unless your set on a different motor it may be worthwhile to take yours apart and see exactly what else it needs. It may be cost effective to repair it.We just put a 91 115 on a boat for 2500 installed.

[Boat Doc']

I have a 1994 Mercury outboard OG00574. While flushing I lost cooling water. I pulled the lower unit and found the impeller with cooked broken fingers. The top of the pump also had some heat damage. I have a pretty intensive service manual...but it shows to replace the lower housing and seals to remove 4bolts. My lower casing only has the oil filler plug in the side no bolts. I'm hoping to just change the impeller and upper casing, I buffed out the groves in the drive shaft at the top of the casing. Should I change the lower housing ...if so how does it come off?

Regards
Bill

http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/Waterpumpbase2.jpg

http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/Waterpumpbase1.jpg

It's melted so it should be replaced. The only thing holding it in at this point is an o-ring on the bottom side. Crefully pry up on both ends or sides at the same time and it should pop up

[honker1]

Hay Doc....I purchased a '09 (said '08 on motor) 4-stroke Mercury F8ELH outboard for trolling. I took it out one day for break-in per manual. I took it out yesterday for some trolling and can't get it to troll down to 1 mph. It wants to run at 2.5 mph (GPS) and speeds up and then will drop down like it wants to kill. It vibrates more then my '90 2-stroke did and anything loose in the boat will drive you crazy. Example cup holders or control cables.
The motor only has 8 hours tops. I would think it should run smoother and not vibrate so bad. Do you think this can be adjusted to run better. I didn't see any idle adjustment screws on the carburator.

[rags]

Boat Doc,

Has anyone drained their tank and filled it with the non-ethanol gas? I have a Super Vee and was thinking of draining the tank and filling it with the non-ethanol gas. Gas tank is under the floor and not sure how much it holds. Do you know? I bought a siphen from Freddies, stuck the hose down my gas tank opening and other end into me truck. After pumping the siphen several times no gas comes out. Obviously this is not the way to drain the tank. Should I just run it dry, start filling it with the non-ethanol (can you mix it?) or continue using Stabil for ethanol? How do you drain the tank? Thanks for your help.
__________________
John
Living in God's country
CCA Member

[Boat Doc']

Hay Doc....I purchased a '09 (said '08 on motor) 4-stroke Mercury F8ELH outboard for trolling. I took it out one day for break-in per manual. I took it out yesterday for some trolling and can't get it to troll down to 1 mph. It wants to run at 2.5 mph (GPS) and speeds up and then will drop down like it wants to kill. It vibrates more then my '90 2-stroke did and anything loose in the boat will drive you crazy. Example cup holders or control cables.
The motor only has 8 hours tops. I would think it should run smoother and not vibrate so bad. Do you think this can be adjusted to run better. I didn't see any idle adjustment screws on the carburator.

Try adjusting the idle mixture, need to carefully drill out the brass plug by the idle speed screw to access it

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc,

Has anyone drained their tank and filled it with the non-ethanol gas? I have a Super Vee and was thinking of draining the tank and filling it with the non-ethanol gas. Gas tank is under the floor and not sure how much it holds. Do you know? I bought a siphen from Freddies, stuck the hose down my gas tank opening and other end into me truck. After pumping the siphen several times no gas comes out. Obviously this is not the way to drain the tank. Should I just run it dry, start filling it with the non-ethanol (can you mix it?) or continue using Stabil for ethanol? How do you drain the tank? Thanks for your help.
__________________
John
Living in God's country
CCA Member
We run the fuel line out the drain plug and siphon or pump it. As long as you have a good filtering system the ethanol shouldn't be a issue

[Ken Drifter]

I want to add Diamond plate anchor guards to the bow. How thick should the diamond plate be. And, rough guess on an estimate from you guys. 18ft Seahawk. Would Stevens weld of rivet ?
Thanks

[Boat Doc']

I want to add Diamond plate anchor guards to the bow. How thick should the diamond plate be. And, rough guess on an estimate from you guys. 18ft Seahawk. Would Stevens weld of rivet ?
Thanks

We would rivet, aprox 300 out of .063 material

[FreshWater]

Reman would run about 2200 plus labor and misc parts. Unless your set on a different motor it may be worthwhile to take yours apart and see exactly what else it needs. It may be cost effective to repair it.We just put a 91 115 on a boat for 2500 installed.


thanks for your reply. the boat is a 20footer that will be used for waterskiing/fishing. What hp motor will be best fit my needs?

[mrett]

Hey Doc:

02 Mercury 9.9 Currently runs well @ sea level.

Should I expect any performance/start/idle issues @ higher altitudes?
(over 4500 ft)

Will I need to make any adjustments ?

Thank You

[Boat Doc']

Hey Doc:

02 Mercury 9.9 Currently runs well @ sea level.

Should I expect any performance/start/idle issues @ higher altitudes?
(over 4500 ft)

Will I need to make any adjustments ?

Thank You

You may have to adjust the idle mixture to acheive a smooth idle. There will be a performance loss at top end that you could help compensate for by installing a smaller pitch prop. If it's just for trolling adjust the mixture if necessary

[Trick]

The water could have froze and pushed the seals out. Doesn't explain why it won't shift. Could it be the reverse lock hooks are resting on the tilt pin? You could try lifting it up and see if it shifts or pull down on the hooks and see if it shifts. It may be something minor


Had my OB fixed a couple a weeks ago and you were right. The thing froze and pushed the seals along with everything else out. Let water in and rusted the inner workings of the lower unit. Had it replaced with a rebuilt unit that used stainless parts.

Expensive lesson learned.

Thanks for the information.

[rwoodcutter2]

http://www.ifish.net/board/images/icons/icon6.gif boat without power
i went to wickiup for the holiday weekend well i didnt get to fish alot the problem is that when i had 3 or more people in my boat i couldnt get it to plane almost like it was cavitating i not not sure if it would be in the motor or what,the rpms were about 2000 rpms if iwent to open it up to full throttle it would bogg down like it was choking its self i dont know if that could be an exhaust issue or intake ,or carb what should i try any help would be appreciated ,by the way when i had 2 people in the boat i could go 32 mph put 3 adults i could go 10mph i still could not open it to full throttle at anytime because it would bogg down what do you think? It is a 19 ft searay seville with a 4cyl omc the prop is a 13 3/4x17 !:cool:

[Salmonslayer2]

Gas gauge shows full all the time. What is wrong?

[Boat Doc']

http://www.ifish.net/board/images/icons/icon6.gif boat without power
i went to wickiup for the holiday weekend well i didnt get to fish alot the problem is that when i had 3 or more people in my boat i couldnt get it to plane almost like it was cavitating i not not sure if it would be in the motor or what,the rpms were about 2000 rpms if iwent to open it up to full throttle it would bogg down like it was choking its self i dont know if that could be an exhaust issue or intake ,or carb what should i try any help would be appreciated ,by the way when i had 2 people in the boat i could go 32 mph put 3 adults i could go 10mph i still could not open it to full throttle at anytime because it would bogg down what do you think? It is a 19 ft searay seville with a 4cyl omc the prop is a 13 3/4x17 !:cool:

Probably to much prop for the altitude. Try it here, if the problem is gone then you will need a smaller pitch prop for up there

[Boat Doc']

Gas gauge shows full all the time. What is wrong?
Float stuck, sender grounded or bad gauge

[cloudbusterb]

Hay Doc i have a new 09 north river 21 foot sea hawk and i will be putting on a 225 yamaha what prop should i run o this boat .Thanks

[fyshndad]

Since I had this installed at Stevens when I got the motor I will ask here as well

My Tach started acting strange
it would show very high RPMs when I know they were not that high
Then when I turned the key to off the tach would stay at 1000 until I turned the key back on then it would go to zero

Then it just plain stopped working

What should I be looking at to try and solve the issue myself

Thanks

[fishgetter]

Boat Doc,

My battery on the boat seems to drain out in 3-4 days while sitting in the drive way. I installed a Perko Swich and a second battery to no avail, now I get one good battery and one dead battery.

I think it may be due to something on the Motor? I followed the instructions with the Perko and have the ground on one battery (the one that goes dead) directly to the motor. I cannot think of anywhere else a draw could come from?

I thought about installing a trickle charger to solve the problem but that is really just masking the issue.

Any ideas, I will grab a amp meter this week and tear into it?

I have a Mariner 150 1991, 1 battery is 2 years old, 1 is less than 1 year old, I have a main buss box off of the Perko Switch as well on the console and it goes completely dead with the Perko Switch. I have replaced the rectifier in the last 6 months.

Thanks,

[Robalo Bill]

Boat Doc

I completely changed out the water pump housing on my 1993 Mercury 150, sn OG00574. Test run during low tide, sucked up some mud and got an over heat alarm. Redid the pump, checked the thermostats all corroded from salt...will be changing these. My tachometer quit 5 minutes before I pulled the boat out. Could I have overheated or fried the sending unit?

Bill

[Boat Doc']

Hay Doc i have a new 09 north river 21 foot sea hawk and i will be putting on a 225 yamaha what prop should i run o this boat .Thanks

I would start with a 17 pitch

[Boat Doc']

Since I had this installed at Stevens when I got the motor I will ask here as well

My Tach started acting strange
it would show very high RPMs when I know they were not that high
Then when I turned the key to off the tach would stay at 1000 until I turned the key back on then it would go to zero

Then it just plain stopped working

What should I be looking at to try and solve the issue myself

Thanks

I would guess voltage regulater. It's normal for it to read the rpm it's at when you shut it off until the key is turned back on

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc,

My battery on the boat seems to drain out in 3-4 days while sitting in the drive way. I installed a Perko Swich and a second battery to no avail, now I get one good battery and one dead battery.

I think it may be due to something on the Motor? I followed the instructions with the Perko and have the ground on one battery (the one that goes dead) directly to the motor. I cannot think of anywhere else a draw could come from?

I thought about installing a trickle charger to solve the problem but that is really just masking the issue.

Any ideas, I will grab a amp meter this week and tear into it?

I have a Mariner 150 1991, 1 battery is 2 years old, 1 is less than 1 year old, I have a main buss box off of the Perko Switch as well on the console and it goes completely dead with the Perko Switch. I have replaced the rectifier in the last 6 months.

Thanks,

The switch would have to be wired incorrectly. engine and other loads to common and each battery to 1 and 2. ground tie between the 2 negatives and grounded to the block. Any intentional full time load like a auto bilge would go to either battery

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc

I completely changed out the water pump housing on my 1993 Mercury 150, sn OG00574. Test run during low tide, sucked up some mud and got an over heat alarm. Redid the pump, checked the thermostats all corroded from salt...will be changing these. My tachometer quit 5 minutes before I pulled the boat out. Could I have overheated or fried the sending unit?

Bill

Maybe, tach works off voltage regulater. If you have a water cooled regulater it may be damaged. They are about 4x6 inches and bolt to the rear water jacket. If you could provide the complete ser# i could verify- your missing 1 digit

[fyshndad]

I would guess voltage regulater. It's normal for it to read the rpm it's at when you shut it off until the key is turned back on


Are you saying my voltage regulator is not working properly??

I did test the charge system and was only getting 12.6 v but I thought it might be because of a weak battery (that I just replaced but did not recheck voltage out put)

Thanks

[Robalo Bill]

Boat Doc

Actual sn OG005704, I circled the sending unit, it has a White and Blu/White stripe wire running into what I think is the Lubalert. Which is bolted to the engine but is on 4 standoffs were the bolts attach.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/Tach_Sensor.jpg

I also pulled the thermostats, since water flow was intermintent...looks like a bracket is missing off the pin. Are these all standard on Mercurys. I can only find a single part number for 143 degree and one for a 120 degree setting. This is after I cleaned them up a bit...looked like a piece of salt crystal before.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/Thermostats.jpg

Thanks Much
Bill

[Jetboatgreg]

Boat Doc....hard starting sport jet problem again.

If you do or dont remember through your assistance i found out i did not have a ck valve in my fuel line at the tank...

I installed one and it sporadically had the same problem of hard starting still but it was better.

So i installed an in line primer bulb b4 the fuel filter/fuel pump. It seems to be better but it still starts hard...more so ...it initially starts easier but it seems to idle for like 30 seconds then die out like it looses its prime again. Then you crank and crank and it spits/sputters and smokes then eventually clears and its ok.

ITs funny cause sometimes it does it while other times it does not. Usually i start it in the driveway b4 heading to the river. The first time this weekend i started it and it idled ok..get to the river and it started and ran great.

The next day i do it and it idled for amout 15 seconds then died out...and i had to crank and crank. Get to the river and its ok...

Third day...i ran the fuel pump b4 i started it (by pulling the fuse and touching it to the starter selenoid) started the engine and it ran ok?

First ?, should i have bypassed the fuel pump when i installed the primer bulb?

If not, any suggestions?? this is really driving me nuts!!

Thanks...
Greg in PA!!

[Boat Doc']

Are you saying my voltage regulator is not working properly??

I did test the charge system and was only getting 12.6 v but I thought it might be because of a weak battery (that I just replaced but did not recheck voltage out put)

Thanks

Need to measure voltage key off and engine running it should run up to around 14.7. 12.6 is a fully charged battery. If it's not charging and the terminals are clean and tight then it most likely the regulater

[fyshndad]

Need to measure voltage key off and engine running it should run up to around 14.7. 12.6 is a fully charged battery. If it's not charging and the terminals are clean and tight then it most likely the regulater

Thanks Doc
I think I will just replace it and then I will know it is good

The one on the motor now is likely the original 1989

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc

Actual sn OG005704, I circled the sending unit, it has a White and Blu/White stripe wire running into what I think is the Lubalert. Which is bolted to the engine but is on 4 standoffs were the bolts attach.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/Tach_Sensor.jpg

I also pulled the thermostats, since water flow was intermintent...looks like a bracket is missing off the pin. Are these all standard on Mercurys. I can only find a single part number for 143 degree and one for a 120 degree setting. This is after I cleaned them up a bit...looked like a piece of salt crystal before.
http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/Thermostats.jpg

Thanks Much
Bill

What you have circled is the oil driuve gear sensonr, the tach works off the voltage regulater. Look for a gray wire coming at of them one of which is not connected. Plug that in to the the other one and it will probably function. Your thermostats are stuck and need replaced

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc....hard starting sport jet problem again.

If you do or dont remember through your assistance i found out i did not have a ck valve in my fuel line at the tank...

I installed one and it sporadically had the same problem of hard starting still but it was better.

So i installed an in line primer bulb b4 the fuel filter/fuel pump. It seems to be better but it still starts hard...more so ...it initially starts easier but it seems to idle for like 30 seconds then die out like it looses its prime again. Then you crank and crank and it spits/sputters and smokes then eventually clears and its ok.

ITs funny cause sometimes it does it while other times it does not. Usually i start it in the driveway b4 heading to the river. The first time this weekend i started it and it idled ok..get to the river and it started and ran great.

The next day i do it and it idled for amout 15 seconds then died out...and i had to crank and crank. Get to the river and its ok...

Third day...i ran the fuel pump b4 i started it (by pulling the fuse and touching it to the starter selenoid) started the engine and it ran ok?

First ?, should i have bypassed the fuel pump when i installed the primer bulb?

If not, any suggestions?? this is really driving me nuts!!

Thanks...
Greg in PA!!

Get rid of the primer bulb and wire the pump to a momentary switch on the dash. Run the pump until it loads before starting and should be ok. There is numerous posts in here on how to do it if you don't know how

[Robalo Bill]

Boat Doc

I found both regulators and found the grey wire was plugged in. I checked conntinuity...OK. I switch the grey lead to the other regulators grey wire...still no tach. If I rev the engine a bit above idle the voltage gauge does not move but registers at 13.8. I've order new thermostats...can I run without them in the mean time or is this a bad idea? Oh I also checked were the engine harness connects, no corrosion, pins still have factory grease.

Thanks Much
Bill

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc

I found both regulators and found the grey wire was plugged in. I checked conntinuity...OK. I switch the grey lead to the other regulators grey wire...still no tach. If I rev the engine a bit above idle the voltage gauge does not move but registers at 13.8. I've order new thermostats...can I run without them in the mean time or is this a bad idea? Oh I also checked were the engine harness connects, no corrosion, pins still have factory grease.

Thanks Much
Bill

It may run rich at idle without thermostats, but won't hurt anything. The tach is likely bad

[fishnhuntnfool]

Doc,
Honda BF75 (7.5 HP) from late 70's with charge plug, Keihin Carb, 1###### serial number. At anything above half throttle there is no power increase. I'm assuming it's a jet issue since I pulled the carb float bowl off and pulled the main jet. It was screwed all the way in, so I'm assuming it runs too rich to increase idle. If I do go for some time above the half throttle and cut the throttle to idle, it will die and I have to drain the carb then give it a few minutes before it will start. Any other suggestions other than the main jet, and how many turns backed out is recommended? While I'm in the carb, where is the slow jet and what is the tube (has 6 pin size holes in it)that is in the same hole as the main jet that sticks up into the main body of the carb and what is the needle screw on top that has a spring on it and is at a 45 degree angle to the carb? What Keihin carb is this? What's the float measurement supposed to be?

Thanks in advance for any help!

[fishN-4-Alimit]

Hey Boat Doc,
I have a 2000 Merc 90hp 4 stroke that runs and rev's up just fine in neutral, but when I put it in gear and start to give it the gas it spits and sputters as it slowly builds up some RPM's.
It will eventually get to about 3000 RMM's but it is popping and sputtering while it tries to get up to speed. I can't give it rull throttle it just won't run at all that way but it tries to build up RPM's if I keep it back a ways.

I runs OK at say 25mph but the boat will usually do 40mph at top end.

I added some of the new Stabil (blue) but that did nothing. I am going to get a new fuel filter which has never been replaced.

What are your thoughts??
Thanks for listening.

[HntnFsh]

Hi Boat Doc,

I just replaced the floors in my boat.I'm running a SJ.While I had it out I looked to see if I had a check valve in the fuel line..I dont.
So I want to install one. Do I need to install it in the tank? Or right before the fitting that goes into the tank.

My pickup tube that goes into the tank looks like 3/8 i.d 1/2 o.d hard plastic,with a peice of soft rubber hose about 2" long with a screen in it. Do I just modify that?

Also If I cant find one local,do you have what I need.Your parts guys have shipped me parts before.Was just hopin to finish it up tonight.

Thank you,
HNtnFsh

[Leaky pipes]

My 2005 big foot 9.9 started running rough at idle,then hard starting and would only run at high rpms in neutral .Could not idle down to get in gear.Now it just fires for a couple of seconds. I know I have spark & fuel past the racor & small filter.could you suggest what I need to check to check.
Thanks,

[Boat Doc']

Hey Boat Doc,
I have a 2000 Merc 90hp 4 stroke that runs and rev's up just fine in neutral, but when I put it in gear and start to give it the gas it spits and sputters as it slowly builds up some RPM's.
It will eventually get to about 3000 RMM's but it is popping and sputtering while it tries to get up to speed. I can't give it rull throttle it just won't run at all that way but it tries to build up RPM's if I keep it back a ways.

I runs OK at say 25mph but the boat will usually do 40mph at top end.

I added some of the new Stabil (blue) but that did nothing. I am going to get a new fuel filter which has never been replaced.

What are your thoughts??
Thanks for listening.

Carbs need gone thru

[Boat Doc']

Hi Boat Doc,

I just replaced the floors in my boat.I'm running a SJ.While I had it out I looked to see if I had a check valve in the fuel line..I dont.
So I want to install one. Do I need to install it in the tank? Or right before the fitting that goes into the tank.

My pickup tube that goes into the tank looks like 3/8 i.d 1/2 o.d hard plastic,with a peice of soft rubber hose about 2" long with a screen in it. Do I just modify that?

Also If I cant find one local,do you have what I need.Your parts guys have shipped me parts before.Was just hopin to finish it up tonight.

Thank you,
HNtnFsh

It would go on the pickup. The hose would attach to it. Would need to order one

[Boat Doc']

My 2005 big foot 9.9 started running rough at idle,then hard starting and would only run at high rpms in neutral .Could not idle down to get in gear.Now it just fires for a couple of seconds. I know I have spark & fuel past the racor & small filter.could you suggest what I need to check to check.
Thanks,

Need to clen out the carb

[backeddy]

Hello Boat Doc,

I have a older pump G series pre shift cam on the reverse Gate. My problem is that I have forward only. I can shift from forward to reverse, but when attempting to go back to forward the gate stays in the reverse position. I have notices that the shift cable end(black plastic seems to slie on the threaded cable end is this correct? I have included a youtube video clip of the shift problem. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uveFauJba6o You will notice the blue indicator tape on the shift cable as I go from forward to reverse and back to forward with the gate stuck in reverse. Thanks Boat Doc for taking the time to help us out!

[Boat Doc']

Hello Boat Doc,

I have a older pump G series pre shift cam on the reverse Gate. My problem is that I have forward only. I can shift from forward to reverse, but when attempting to go back to forward the gate stays in the reverse position. I have notices that the shift cable end(black plastic seems to slie on the threaded cable end is this correct? I have included a youtube video clip of the shift problem. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uveFauJba6o You will notice the blue indicator tape on the shift cable as I go from forward to reverse and back to forward with the gate stuck in reverse. Thanks Boat Doc for taking the time to help us out!

The cable doesn't appear to be anchored correctly at the handle end. Your not getting full throw and the adjustment at the pump is not correct. Normaally the plastic barrel would adjusted down an inch or so

[Highmark]

Hi My problem is this. during halibut fishing and backing in to the sea's
When I ingage the engine in to reverse. the rpms would drop
to 400 to 500 rpms at dead idle and act like it was going to die.
This is not normal. In the past,
when I put it in to gear it would drop a little then come back up to around 800 rpm.
that is normal. Why would be dropping off so low.
Out of gear it idles at 800. so why is dropping off so far.
this Engine has 180 hrs on now.

[backeddy]

The cable doesn't appear to be anchored correctly at the handle end. Your not getting full throw and the adjustment at the pump is not correct. Normaally the plastic barrel would adjusted down an inch or so


Thanks Boat Doc! :applause:

Huge thanks!

[Boat Doc']

Hi My problem is this. during halibut fishing and backing in to the sea's
When I ingage the engine in to reverse. the rpms would drop
to 400 to 500 rpms at dead idle and act like it was going to die.
This is not normal. In the past,
when I put it in to gear it would drop a little then come back up to around 800 rpm.
that is normal. Why would be dropping off so low.
Out of gear it idles at 800. so why is dropping off so far.
this Engine has 180 hrs on now.

If it only does it in the ocean I would guess excessive back pressure- Nothing you can do about it. If it does it all the time then I would start with carbs. Would need to know what engine you have to get into further info

[Seasick]

I recently picked up a small boat from my sister. It has a 1978 50 horse Merc 4 cylinder engine. It sat for about 4 years. I repared the boat and then started the motor. It runs but under pressure, on the trailer or in the water, it dies after reaching half throttle. All new gas of course. Starts well, sounds good running, just stalls out when run up. Any ideas?

[buckbuckey25]

Hi there Boat Doc and all others!

I got a quick question.. Hoping it is fairly easily answered.. but who knows!

So I have a Honda 4 stroke 115HP. Out on the lake last weekend and everything was going fine... Stopped to let the family swim... anchored out and enjoyed the day. Then when it was time to leave.. I cranked the boat up.. and now all of a sudden.. I am only hitting 4200 RPM.. When I pulled into this cove I was hitting 5200 RPM. Now.. when I have the throttle all the way down.. it just stays at 4200. However.. If I work the throttle back and forth about 1/4 of an inch.. and as long as I keep working it.. it will rev higher and get very close to the 5200 I was running.. Immediately after I stop working the throttle back and forth and leave it WOT.. It will drop back down to the 4200 RPM..Mind you it may take 2 - 3 secs to decrease back to the 4200RPM Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!

Buckey

[Highmark]

it's a 2005 225 yamaha. And what do you mean by back pressure.??

If it only does it in the ocean I would guess excessive back pressure- Nothing you can do about it. If it does it all the time then I would start with carbs. Would need to know what engine you have to get into further info

[Boat Doc']

I recently picked up a small boat from my sister. It has a 1978 50 horse Merc 4 cylinder engine. It sat for about 4 years. I repared the boat and then started the motor. It runs but under pressure, on the trailer or in the water, it dies after reaching half throttle. All new gas of course. Starts well, sounds good running, just stalls out when run up. Any ideas?

Would guess air mixture is to lean or carbs need gone thru

[Boat Doc']

Hi there Boat Doc and all others!

I got a quick question.. Hoping it is fairly easily answered.. but who knows!

So I have a Honda 4 stroke 115HP. Out on the lake last weekend and everything was going fine... Stopped to let the family swim... anchored out and enjoyed the day. Then when it was time to leave.. I cranked the boat up.. and now all of a sudden.. I am only hitting 4200 RPM.. When I pulled into this cove I was hitting 5200 RPM. Now.. when I have the throttle all the way down.. it just stays at 4200. However.. If I work the throttle back and forth about 1/4 of an inch.. and as long as I keep working it.. it will rev higher and get very close to the 5200 I was running.. Immediately after I stop working the throttle back and forth and leave it WOT.. It will drop back down to the 4200 RPM..Mind you it may take 2 - 3 secs to decrease back to the 4200RPM Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!

Buckey

First guess would be fuel filter

[Boat Doc']

it's a 2005 225 yamaha. And what do you mean by back pressure.??

Thought was if you were backing down into swells that would increase the exhaust pressure resulting in lower engine speed or possible water intrusion in the lower cylinders. If it still does it in the river then that is not the issue. Would then recommend plugs and filters for starters

[TrapperJohn]

Doc, my ride is powered by a OMC King Cobra 5.8L Ford with a Holly 4 bl. To make it more interesting the block is the high performance GT version. (I have no idea how it made its way into the boat, but it's there!)

Recently, the engine began cutting out at 1000 rpm or less - as in docking moments - making for some interesting scrambling. It runs well enough at the low end for about fifteen minutes, then suddenly dies. We do get a "warning" in the form of a bit of stutter just before she quits.

We've changed out the fuel filter, boosted the octane, chanted in foreign languages, to no avail. The boat comes out of the hole and performs at mid to high speed just fine. Any thoughts on where to look next?:pray:

[Boat Doc']

Doc, my ride is powered by a OMC King Cobra 5.8L Ford with a Holly 4 bl. To make it more interesting the block is the high performance GT version. (I have no idea how it made its way into the boat, but it's there!)

Recently, the engine began cutting out at 1000 rpm or less - as in docking moments - making for some interesting scrambling. It runs well enough at the low end for about fifteen minutes, then suddenly dies. We do get a "warning" in the form of a bit of stutter just before she quits.

We've changed out the fuel filter, boosted the octane, chanted in foreign languages, to no avail. The boat comes out of the hole and performs at mid to high speed just fine. Any thoughts on where to look next?:pray:

Shift interrupt switches or module

[fishorgolf]

Hi Boat Doc,,,,,,,,,some one i know ( father in law ) has 87 25 hp merc he bought new,,,,, He uses his boat and keeps it in tip top shape,,,His boat and motors are always keep in order,,, The problem is at itell motor sounds ok but thinks its only running on 1 cyclinder and ruff when he adds rpm,s ( does a 1987 motor have a electric brain (computer chip for each cyclinder ? ) ) ,,,,, new plugs and gas ,,,,,, Any help will help this fixed income retired Sr,,,,,,,,,,,,HAVE FUN AND BE SAFE

[Schenley]

Boat Doc- I posted this before further down the page, as I couldnt figure out how to get on the "sticky" post (Doh!)

My Alumaweld Intruder hull makes a heck of a racket at speed. I am running a 2008 Intruder without a pod. merc 115 4 stroke.

It has been suggested that placing a rubber pad on the transom may help. Sure could use a second opinion before I pull the motor. ( get this even when the motor is not fully trimmed down)

Any help appreciated as I know that other Intruders dont do this!!

[N/R Salmon slayer]

Boat Doc-

I am pursuing changing the water / fuel filter and was wondering if there's anything I should be aware of before I start this task. I am familiar with changing oil filters and typical maintenance, but always find it can save me tiime and expense with asking afew questions.

I have a N/R Commander with a 5.7 Marine Powered jet. I see where it sits and seems simple enough to me to unscrew the the assemble and reinsert a new one. Should I refill it with gas before screwing it back into place? Can I pick one of tehse up at the parts counter iat your facility in Tigard.

Any tips or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Jim

[Boat Doc']

Hi Boat Doc,,,,,,,,,some one i know ( father in law ) has 87 25 hp merc he bought new,,,,, He uses his boat and keeps it in tip top shape,,,His boat and motors are always keep in order,,, The problem is at itell motor sounds ok but thinks its only running on 1 cyclinder and ruff when he adds rpm,s ( does a 1987 motor have a electric brain (computer chip for each cyclinder ? ) ) ,,,,, new plugs and gas ,,,,,, Any help will help this fixed income retired Sr,,,,,,,,,,,,HAVE FUN AND BE SAFE

It has a brain and a coil for each cylinder. Need to check spark and if its only firing on one swap the coil leads and either replace the brain or coil depending on whether it follows the coil or not

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc- I posted this before further down the page, as I couldnt figure out how to get on the "sticky" post (Doh!)

My Alumaweld Intruder hull makes a heck of a racket at speed. I am running a 2008 Intruder without a pod. merc 115 4 stroke.

It has been suggested that placing a rubber pad on the transom may help. Sure could use a second opinion before I pull the motor. ( get this even when the motor is not fully trimmed down)

Any help appreciated as I know that other Intruders dont do this!!

4 Strokes in general will harmonize at certain rpm and can make everything in the boat rattle. You could try carpet in the trays to keep the vibration down. I havn't heard of isolating the motor but it may help. Different props may move the vibration to a speed that you don't normally run at.

[fishorgolf]

thanks Doc I,ll help him look this weekend after we spend a 1/2 day shading ,,,,,,,Thanks

[Smj]

Boat Doc....I'm considering putting a Minn Kota MK-1-DC Onboard DC Alternator Charger in my '01 17.5' Smoker Craft to charge my Trojan SCS-200 deep cycle battery while I'm running. I've got an '01 75 hp 2-stroke ELPTO, will the charging output of this motor be adequate to keep the cranking battery up properly AND put a decent amount of juice to the deep cycle? What's the general output(amps) of the engine? This unit claims 10 amps to the deep cycle, do I have the extra to spare? Are there any problems foreseen with this setup? It's a hundred bucks, and if it's not putting much into the deep cycle, or going to tax the electricl in the big motor I don't want to do it.

Thank You Boat Doc.

Smj

[dinofun]

My 2005 big foot 9.9 started running rough at idle,then hard starting and would only run at high rpms in neutral .Could not idle down to get in gear.Now it just fires for a couple of seconds. I know I have spark & fuel past the racor & small filter.could you suggest what I need to check to check.
Thanks,
This exact same thing has happened to 2008 9.9 Bigfoot 3 times now. Everytime it has been resolved by taking the carb off, blowing out the passages and cleaning out some "gunk" that is in the bowl. Don't know what the gunk is but suspect ethanol has something to do with it it. The main motor never has this issue and they both come off the same filter. I'm wondering if I should replace the fuel line from the filter to the kicker?

[Alsetz]

I'm performing my annual oil change on my 175 sportjet. It sure seems like the fasteners are difficult to remove and I see evidence of corrosion. I'm using Locktite as recommended. I plan to change my button anodes. I can see having stainless fasteners attached to aluminum housings can cause some problems because of the dissimilar metals. I see some people are using 101 lube to helpl protect the fasteners. Any suggestions? I sure hate to strip a fastener in the future, but it kind of feels like I'm on my way to that scenario.

Thanks.

Larry

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc....I'm considering putting a Minn Kota MK-1-DC Onboard DC Alternator Charger in my '01 17.5' Smoker Craft to charge my Trojan SCS-200 deep cycle battery while I'm running. I've got an '01 75 hp 2-stroke ELPTO, will the charging output of this motor be adequate to keep the cranking battery up properly AND put a decent amount of juice to the deep cycle? What's the general output(amps) of the engine? This unit claims 10 amps to the deep cycle, do I have the extra to spare? Are there any problems foreseen with this setup? It's a hundred bucks, and if it's not putting much into the deep cycle, or going to tax the electricl in the big motor I don't want to do it.

Thank You Boat Doc.

Smj

I would advise keeping them seperate, the 75 will keep up with its load and small accessories no problem, about 16 amp output. use the other charger for the deep cycle- it will take at least 8 hrs to charge a 80 amp battery

[Boat Doc']

This exact same thing has happened to 2008 9.9 Bigfoot 3 times now. Everytime it has been resolved by taking the carb off, blowing out the passages and cleaning out some "gunk" that is in the bowl. Don't know what the gunk is but suspect ethanol has something to do with it it. The main motor never has this issue and they both come off the same filter. I'm wondering if I should replace the fuel line from the filter to the kicker?

The problem is the fuel, run a treatment/stabilizer thru each tank. It may keep you from having to keep taking the carb apart when it plugs up

[Boat Doc']

I'm performing my annual oil change on my 175 sportjet. It sure seems like the fasteners are difficult to remove and I see evidence of corrosion. I'm using Locktite as recommended. I plan to change my button anodes. I can see having stainless fasteners attached to aluminum housings can cause some problems because of the dissimilar metals. I see some people are using 101 lube to helpl protect the fasteners. Any suggestions? I sure hate to strip a fastener in the future, but it kind of feels like I'm on my way to that scenario.

Thanks.

Larry

Never seize or 101 will cure the problem

[Highmark]

I did something I never do. I was running my Yamaha 225 on the hose
After replacing the plugs. And I put it in gear out of water.
There was a clunking sound coming out of the lower end.
Now I never ingage it when I'm flushing it. And I know it's not
something I should do. But should it be doing that.
Now playing with the prop. Pulling on it and pushing on it
there is about 1/8 to 3/16 slop in it. Is that normal.

[Boat Doc']

I did something I never do. I was running my Yamaha 225 on the hose
After replacing the plugs. And I put it in gear out of water.
There was a clunking sound coming out of the lower end.
Now I never ingage it when I'm flushing it. And I know it's not
something I should do. But should it be doing that.
Now playing with the prop. Pulling on it and pushing on it
there is about 1/8 to 3/16 slop in it. Is that normal.

Everything should be fine, probably hearing the clutch rattling back and forth from no load. If it's ok in the water you should be fine. The play is also normal

[Dirtsquirt]

We tryed this once and I didn't respond in the correct format. So here we go again. We will try to answer all maintenance or mechanical related questions within a day or two excluding weekends and holidays.

I have a 1987 Evinrude VRO 50 HP on a boat that I just bought and it has a bad piston and some head damage. I was wondering if it is worth it to rebuild it and how much cost. I am not an outboard mechanic per say, but have worked on cars and what not all my life. I think I could do most of the work with a good manuel to guide me. Thank you for any good advice in advance.

[*smitty*]

Dear Boat Doc,

Sorry about a NR question, but here goes. I have a 2007 NR Mariner with a 150 Merc pump. When I fill (not over fill...really) the fuel tank and the day warms up, I get gas out the vent...a quite a bit of gas. Opening the fuel fill port results in a burst of pressure being relieved, which stops the vent overflow.

I have checked the vent line...even removed the check valve midway between the tank and the vent...no good. Even with the boat a bow lower than stern angle, which puts the fill and vent tube at the high end of the tank, I still get the overflow.

I'm stumped.

Al

[Highmark]

Thanks!! That is what was thinking.
But it's best the run it across the pro...



Everything should be fine, probably hearing the clutch rattling back and forth from no load. If it's ok in the water you should be fine. The play is also normal

[Boat Doc']

I have a 1987 Evinrude VRO 50 HP on a boat that I just bought and it has a bad piston and some head damage. I was wondering if it is worth it to rebuild it and how much cost. I am not an outboard mechanic per say, but have worked on cars and what not all my life. I think I could do most of the work with a good manuel to guide me. Thank you for any good advice in advance.

I would take it apart and see what all it needs and see if it makes economic sense to rebuild it. Keep in mind that everything you don't replace is over 20 years old.

[Boat Doc']

Dear Boat Doc,

Sorry about a NR question, but here goes. I have a 2007 NR Mariner with a 150 Merc pump. When I fill (not over fill...really) the fuel tank and the day warms up, I get gas out the vent...a quite a bit of gas. Opening the fuel fill port results in a burst of pressure being relieved, which stops the vent overflow.

I have checked the vent line...even removed the check valve midway between the tank and the vent...no good. Even with the boat a bow lower than stern angle, which puts the fill and vent tube at the high end of the tank, I still get the overflow.

I'm stumped.

Al

Don't store it full. You might fill it up on the way to the water instead of on the way home. Todays fuels expand much more than before. You could try cranking the bow up or down depending on the vent location on the tank.

[Rainman]

I have a Merc 15hp 2 stroke that I'm wanting to buy a manual for, but I can't seem to be able to pin down the exact year. I have the serial number and all, but even that doesn't seem to do it concisely. A dealer told me that it's a 94 or 95, but I'd like to be more precise. Any ideas ??

[GorgeCaster]

I have a 2002 115 4 stroke Merc and we are having some missing issues. I bought the boat last year with 5 hours on it with a full tank of gas. We ran the boat for maybe 5 hours and it started missing. We tried to put some HEET so the alcohol could maybe absorb some of the moisture, this did help but it is still stumbling when under acceleration. We have now drained the old fuel, changed the water fuel seperators and fuel filters. It is still missing. My question is what is the break in service for these engines? Is there any valve adjustments that need to be made? Could the injectors be dirty from the fouled gas? Any help would be appreciated. Thank You.

[Boat Doc']

I have a Merc 15hp 2 stroke that I'm wanting to buy a manual for, but I can't seem to be able to pin down the exact year. I have the serial number and all, but even that doesn't seem to do it concisely. A dealer told me that it's a 94 or 95, but I'd like to be more precise. Any ideas ??

Whats the ser #

[Boat Doc']

I have a 2002 115 4 stroke Merc and we are having some missing issues. I bought the boat last year with 5 hours on it with a full tank of gas. We ran the boat for maybe 5 hours and it started missing. We tried to put some HEET so the alcohol could maybe absorb some of the moisture, this did help but it is still stumbling when under acceleration. We have now drained the old fuel, changed the water fuel seperators and fuel filters. It is still missing. My question is what is the break in service for these engines? Is there any valve adjustments that need to be made? Could the injectors be dirty from the fouled gas? Any help would be appreciated. Thank You.

An 02 is probably carbureated, in any case run some fuel cleaner thru a couple of tanks of fuel. If it doesn't help the the filters, carbs or injecters would need looked at

[Rainman]

Whats the ser #

od257070. Just got back from a Merc repair shop, he's saying it's a late '93 or early '94. Parts evidently aren't any different.

[GorgeCaster]

An 02 is probably carbureated, in any case run some fuel cleaner thru a couple of tanks of fuel. If it doesn't help the the filters, carbs or injecters would need looked at


Maybe it is newer because it has EFI.

[Maddie'sDaddy]

Hi Doc

If you cant answer this , no one can:D I have a 08 Smoker Craft Osprey DLX and was wondering about the wires under the helm area that are open

I have 2 open wires from the Aux switch?

1 or 2 from the key switch?

1 multi wire plug like you would see on the back of a radio?

I am getting ready to hook up my fishfinder, Vhf, and radio and was wondering if I can use these.

Also there is a compartment for a secondary battery with all the hookups for a trolling motor or such, Is that being charged by the main motor or do you need to charge seperately?

Sorry if this is too confusing.



MD

[Boat Doc']

od257070. Just got back from a Merc repair shop, he's saying it's a late '93 or early '94. Parts evidently aren't any different.

It's a 1993

[hogslayer2002]

Dear Boat Doc:
I have a 1992 Mercury Mariner 60hp that I am having power and ignition issues with. The problem only seems to exist when I have been running the motor for a long period of time and working it hard such as running out in the ocean. The problem acts like a fuel demand issue. The motor will run along fine but then after a while 30 min or so, it will hiccup and stop. Then it I will start it back up again and hit the throttle only to have it sputter and die. Then I will start it up again and ease the throttle to about 1/4 but then when I give it any more it will sputter and die. I have completely gone through the fuel system including filter, pump, and even drained the tank. It seems to be getting plenty of fuel. I put brand new spark plugs in for this last trip out where it acted up again. I am wondering if it might be related to the coil or other ignition parts. It only seems to do this after it heats up and has been running for a while. If I let it cool down and get cold I can run it again for a period of time (30 min) before it starts acting up again. I have only experienced this problem in big water such as the ocean or Buoy 10. Is there a way to check the electrical components to see if that is the problem? Is there an other possible cause to this issue that I have missed?
Thanks
HS

[Boat Doc']

Dear Boat Doc:
I have a 1992 Mercury Mariner 60hp that I am having power and ignition issues with. The problem only seems to exist when I have been running the motor for a long period of time and working it hard such as running out in the ocean. The problem acts like a fuel demand issue. The motor will run along fine but then after a while 30 min or so, it will hiccup and stop. Then it I will start it back up again and hit the throttle only to have it sputter and die. Then I will start it up again and ease the throttle to about 1/4 but then when I give it any more it will sputter and die. I have completely gone through the fuel system including filter, pump, and even drained the tank. It seems to be getting plenty of fuel. I put brand new spark plugs in for this last trip out where it acted up again. I am wondering if it might be related to the coil or other ignition parts. It only seems to do this after it heats up and has been running for a while. If I let it cool down and get cold I can run it again for a period of time (30 min) before it starts acting up again. I have only experienced this problem in big water such as the ocean or Buoy 10. Is there a way to check the electrical components to see if that is the problem? Is there an other possible cause to this issue that I have missed?
Thanks
HS

I would guess possibly the stator high speed circuit might be heating up and loosing spark. Would have to remove it and heat ity up to test it

[hogslayer2002]

I would guess possibly the stator high speed circuit might be heating up and loosing spark. Would have to remove it and heat ity up to test it
Would this be something that would be easy for a backyard mechanic to do or would you recommend taking it to a shop? Could there be another cause such as coils or switch box?
HS

[Boat Doc']

Would this be something that would be easy for a backyard mechanic to do or would you recommend taking it to a shop? Could there be another cause such as coils or switch box?
HS

Coils and switch boxes would typically affect individual cylinders not all of them. To test the stator you would need to remove the flywheel.

[Maddie'sDaddy]

Boat Doc


I was wondering if you could tell me where you would normally place the transducer of a fishfinder on a 17' Osprey if you were to install it there at your shop, I purchased this model from you folks and would like to place my transducer in the best possible location.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.





MD

[2dognite]

Dear Boat Doc, I have a 1988 Johnson 40hp VRO. I just removed the automixing oil tank. I was curious what to do with the hose barb that is sticking out of the side of the motor? Do I just find a way to put a cap on it or do I remove the hose on the inside of the motor and plug it there? Is there any alarms that I should be worried about?

Thank you,

2dognite

[Jonah's Revenge]

Boat Doc,
I have a jet boat with a 454 inboard. Quite often, if I "mash it" to get on a plane, it will throttle up but before it hits max rpm's it will hesitate for a spit second and either rev up to full throttle or stall out.
If I give it a slow steady throttle, it will not do it.
Also, on occasion, after dragging the kids around on the tubes, when I throttle down to an idle, it will stall.

Is this a fuel delivery issue? Not enough fuel? Secondary jets opening up too quickly?

[kayakfisher]

http://www.ifish.net/board/images/icons/icon1.gif 40 hp merc two cycle short shaft... with Primer pump?
Just a little info here if anyone knows anything about this motor:

A friend is buying a lightweight boat 1996 era... which is 40 hp and has a rubber primer pump for starting... this strikes me as a possibly troublesome design..

I am not referring to the squeeze pump in the gas line... but a small button shaped rubber thumb pump located on the front of the engine housing... looks like it may be designed to put a little squirt of gas into the carb, like on my old lawnmower...

It strikes me as a design prone to fail ... but since I have not seen this on a boat motor before, don't wish to make assumptions.

It is apparrently meant to take the place of an old fashioned choke system.

Any thoughts if you know of this set up would be welcome...

thanks...

[fishkisser]

Hi Boat Doc :wave:
I have a problem with the paint on my jet drive ...
It seems to be delaminating from the aluminum ...
This is happening here and there mostly next to stainless fittings ...
all my zincs are 80 % or better and I have never moored or ran the boat in saltwater ...
Brackish water yes but never in the ocean , There is no zinc on the hull just the outdrive and kicker motor ...
I am looking into repainting it after I figure this out ...
Am I under or over zinc'd or could this be rectified by bonding the outboard and jet drive to battery ground ...
Thanks ... Barney

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc


I was wondering if you could tell me where you would normally place the transducer of a fishfinder on a 17' Osprey if you were to install it there at your shop, I purchased this model from you folks and would like to place my transducer in the best possible location.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Between the strakes on either side you prefer. Do not mount it behind a strake




MD

[Boat Doc']

Dear Boat Doc, I have a 1988 Johnson 40hp VRO. I just removed the automixing oil tank. I was curious what to do with the hose barb that is sticking out of the side of the motor? Do I just find a way to put a cap on it or do I remove the hose on the inside of the motor and plug it there? Is there any alarms that I should be worried about?

Thank you,

2dognite

Cap it and unplug the harness to the VRO. Of course don't forget to mix the gas

[Boat Doc']

Hi Boat Doc :wave:
I have a problem with the paint on my jet drive ...
It seems to be delaminating from the aluminum ...
This is happening here and there mostly next to stainless fittings ...
all my zincs are 80 % or better and I have never moored or ran the boat in saltwater ...
Brackish water yes but never in the ocean , There is no zinc on the hull just the outdrive and kicker motor ...
I am looking into repainting it after I figure this out ...
Am I under or over zinc'd or could this be rectified by bonding the outboard and jet drive to battery ground ...
Thanks ... Barney
What you are seeing is the result of corrosion from dissimilar metals or poor adhesion where its peeling away from any fasteners. Cleaning the affected areas thoroughly and proper prep and application of the cleaners, primers and paint should take care of the problem. Installing a zinc on the hull wouldn't hurt but will not fix this problem. The engine and pump are already indirectlyu tied to battery ground

[fishkisser]

Thanks boat doc ...:bowdown:

[2dognite]

Cap it and unplug the harness to the VRO. Of course don't forget to mix the gas

Thanks Boat Doc.:applause:

[SEAWEED PETE]

Boat Doc,
I am wiring a Smartcraft sc 1000 tach in my new Intruder with a 150 Optimax. Do I need a terminating resistor at the motor and the junction box or just the junction box ?

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc,
I am wiring a Smartcraft sc 1000 tach in my new Intruder with a 150 Optimax. Do I need a terminating resistor at the motor and the junction box or just the junction box ?

Junction box only

[SEAWEED PETE]

Thank you.

[Alsetz]

My Stryker 175 Sportjet steering is progressively getting stiffer. I have reviewed previous threads. Sounds like the only way to resolve is to replace? No way to pull and lubricate?

Thanks.

Larry

[E4usmc0651]

Had the boat out yesterday ('98 175 SJ)and it did fine all day until I was getting ready to leave and head for home. Got back in the boat and started it ran for 5-10 secs and died. started it back up took it out of gear gave it gas and it died in about the same amount of time (sputtered a little first). Finally I got it started gave it gas with it in gear and we were of to the races no issues. Any idea on why this could be? Normally I let the boat warm up for a couple minutes after not running it for a couple hours while fishing or on the beach but it would not stay running. After it warmed up on the run back to the ramp it idled just fine.

[dragon67]

Right now if I have two people in my boat I have no problem getting up on a plane, and go about 25mile an hour, if I have three people and say they weight 300lb apiece it is not happening. My boat is 17 foot long, 50hp 4stroke, and I would say it is a walleye style fishing boat, even though I fish for bass most of the time. I have tried one of those dolphin fins and it didn't help. I am wondering if the trim tabs will actually help my boat get on a plane or not. I don't have to go super fast but hey I want to be on a plane. What does everyone think?

[snohonative]

Steering / throttle cable change.

Hi boat doc, I have an evinrude outboard that I am going to switch out with a yamaha. Do I need to replace both the steering and throttle cables to do this? Are there any type of adaptors or converters to do this if I need to?

Thanks again

[Boat Doc']

Had the boat out yesterday ('98 175 SJ)and it did fine all day until I was getting ready to leave and head for home. Got back in the boat and started it ran for 5-10 secs and died. started it back up took it out of gear gave it gas and it died in about the same amount of time (sputtered a little first). Finally I got it started gave it gas with it in gear and we were of to the races no issues. Any idea on why this could be? Normally I let the boat warm up for a couple minutes after not running it for a couple hours while fishing or on the beach but it would not stay running. After it warmed up on the run back to the ramp it idled just fine.

Possibly fuel evaporated from carbs when sitting in the heat.

[Boat Doc']

Right now if I have two people in my boat I have no problem getting up on a plane, and go about 25mile an hour, if I have three people and say they weight 300lb apiece it is not happening. My boat is 17 foot long, 50hp 4stroke, and I would say it is a walleye style fishing boat, even though I fish for bass most of the time. I have tried one of those dolphin fins and it didn't help. I am wondering if the trim tabs will actually help my boat get on a plane or not. I don't have to go super fast but hey I want to be on a plane. What does everyone think?

Try a smaller pitch prop with the doel fin and it will be better

[Boat Doc']

Steering / throttle cable change.

Hi boat doc, I have an evinrude outboard that I am going to switch out with a yamaha. Do I need to replace both the steering and throttle cables to do this? Are there any type of adaptors or converters to do this if I need to?

Thanks again

You should be able to use the steering. If the control cables are threaded on the ends there is adapters if not they need replaced

[benchm]

Dear boat doc
I have a 96 175 merc efi it has abought 425 hrs on it . when it is cold smokes once it warms up it dosent do it as bad. I dont remember it doing this when it was new. any ideas?

[dragon67]

I tried the doel fin and it broke apart on me. I may try the smaller pitch prop though.
Try a smaller pitch prop with the doel fin and it will be better

[Boat Doc']

Dear boat doc
I have a 96 175 merc efi it has abought 425 hrs on it . when it is cold smokes once it warms up it dosent do it as bad. I dont remember it doing this when it was new. any ideas?

If it runs good after it warms up it I would leave it alone. It's normal for them to smoke quite a bit on start up especially cold as the puddles on shut down the you have to burn off the rich mixture after start up. If it loads up when idling the you would look at fuel pump, bleed check valves, reeds etc.

[snohonative]

Hi Boat Doc,

Thanks for all the help in the past. What are the control and electrical changes that will need to be made switching from an evinrude to a yamaha. They are both 2000 models. They both are fuel injected, electric tilt, oil injected models. Any help is greatly appreciated. I am just trying to figure out if it would be easier to put a rebuilt powerhead on the evinrude or switch out to the good running yamaha.

Thanks again.

[Boat Doc']

Hi Boat Doc,

Thanks for all the help in the past. What are the control and electrical changes that will need to be made switching from an evinrude to a yamaha. They are both 2000 models. They both are fuel injected, electric tilt, oil injected models. Any help is greatly appreciated. I am just trying to figure out if it would be easier to put a rebuilt powerhead on the evinrude or switch out to the good running yamaha.

Thanks again.

Control, cables and wiring harness assy would need changed and oil tank if applicable

[Bleed'm N Eat'm]

Boat Doc,
I have a 2004 15HP Merc. 4stroke. I bought it used a few months ago. But it seems to me that Im not getting all the power out of it that I should be getting. Is it carb problems or possibly linkage issues? Previously had a 1997 2 stroke (stolen) and it seemed to have ALOT more power.

[Kokanee Slow]

I would really appreciate some advice on my 40 year old Mercury 350 (35hp) Outboard's stalling problem.

It seems to run fine with earmuffs (in my yard), but out on the water, if I motor at higher throttle for about 5 minutes, it starts to sputter and die back. If I ease the throttle lever back some, it tends to keep going. When I back it down to idle speed (or close to it) it will die.

I have rebuilt the fuel line from the gas tank, including the bulb. I replaced the remote gas tank. The impeller seems to work, I always have water being ejected from the pee hole. I put in some carburetor cleaner the last time out, no change! I always check and be sure to open the vent screw on the remote tank.

Any suggestions for troubleshooting would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Steve

[Boat Doc']

Boat Doc,
I have a 2004 15HP Merc. 4stroke. I bought it used a few months ago. But it seems to me that Im not getting all the power out of it that I should be getting. Is it carb problems or possibly linkage issues? Previously had a 1997 2 stroke (stolen) and it seemed to have ALOT more power.

If it idles good and accelerates smoothly I would guess a different prop would be needed