Stevens Marine Boat Doc'

[weekender]

Boat Doc,

I've got a 2000 Yamaha F100 that I think spun a bearing. Most of the shops I talk to tell me to just throw away the whole outboard and replace it with new one, but I'd like to find out if my powerhead is a good candidate for a rebuild. Assuming your shop doesnt rebuild powerheads, can you suggest someone with a good reputation?

[Boat Doc']

I would rely on other peoples experiences on a good repair shop. Before you throw the motor away you should at least dissamble it to see how major the damage is.

[flipperdog]

I have a 2000 Mercury 9.9 bigfoot with carb problem.. Have rebuilt the carb and as long as the fuel hookup to my main tank is disconnected the motor runs as it always has. but, on reconnection the fuel begins to spill out of the top of the carb. runs out and if left connected the engine will flood. Can restart after draining fuel off the carb drain and runs great. Reconnect and fuel spills out and engine stalls. It has done this before and I cleaned it and it worked fine until now. Sooooo, I rebuilt carb and fuel running out of top Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
God Bless

[Boat Doc']

Look closely at the needle and seat and also the fuel line and the area under the needle for debris. If the seat is damaged you may have to replace the carb. Also look at the float bowl vent and make sure it isn't plugged.

[flipperdog]

Look closely at the needle and seat and also the fuel line and the area under the needle for debris. If the seat is damaged you may have to replace the carb. Also look at the float bowl vent and make sure it isn't plugged.

Thanks for the information. greatly appreciated!!! Where is the float bowl vent located?? Have looked at diagrams and??
God Bless

[deeptrout]

hey doc, I have an optimax (115 with a pump) and had to replace the battery last weekend. I went with a type 31 commercial, a direct replacement of the one stevens put in it. I see that merc doesn't want us to use a deep cycle battery, so I didn't. My question is this: If my main battery ever dies on me and I need to get the thing started, can I swap out one of my deep cycle trolling batteries for it just to get started and back on the trailer? I have done it before, years ago on a carbureted merc, and got away with it. Are the optis using a different alternator or is it something to do with the injection computers or what? If I have no choice but to rely solely on the one type of battery, I might want to go to two and seperate them with a switch or solid state unit, could that mess with the opti too? what about jumping between batteries to get other people started, or accepting a jump from another boat or from my own trolling bank? I know, I ask a lot of questions for someone from yamhill county. we don't have a lot to do out here between runs. thanks

[Boat Doc']

flipperdog, the float vent is part of the casting, just make sure all the passages are clear.

[Boat Doc']

deeptrout, the optis require 1000 cold cranking amps which is easily reached with a group 31 battery. Since the battery isn't discharged for long periods a deep cycle isn't necessary. You can run it or jump it with a deep cycle battery with no problems. You should never jump or accept a jump with a engine running as the voltage surge from the engine being started can damage electrical components. Hope this answers your questions

[live to fish]

I have a 1975 21'fiberform that i picked up it has a 140 Mercruser in it, Hoping one day to beable to run for tuna(my dream).To start with i found the riser exploded.no problem replaced it.Went for a test run it over heated in about 3 minutes.Found that the manifold was caroded and plugged no problem replaced it.Next test run no over heating but now i have a increasing rattling noise the longer its running on step , idle it down noise is gone.Found the timing to be off by 13 deg fixed the timing.Out again for a test run samething.So now i am out of ideas any help would be great. It sound to me like the lifters are rattling
Thanks
Paul

[deeptrout]

well, that should have answered my question, but I was hoping for a little more clarification about why merc says not to use a deep cycle. From the warning in the book, it seems they really don't want one in there, they just don't say why. I get that i don't really need one, and I beleive I am probably alright to use one, I just wonder why merc seems so adamant about not installing one, unless it is because most deep cycles wont deliver trhe cca the opti needs. Some will, sears has one but it runs around 250 bucks as opposed to 85 for a group 31. thanks, this thread is by far the best boat maintenance thread I have ever found.

[drillman]

help i know i should not have to ask but ! i have a 1977 evenrude 85 horse outboard.how do i find out if it is a 2 or 4 stroke i just bought this motor and need some info please thank you much in advance

[Boat Doc']

livetofish, start with verifying that the plugs are correct and that the distributer is advancing and retarding with rpm. If the advance mechanism is stuck you may still be over advanced. Next try an oil change. If it still makes noise have someone listen to it that can tell a lifter from a rod, lifter noise is much more subtle than a rod that sounds like a bat hitting a ball.

[Boat Doc']

deeptrout, a deep cycle battery MAY not maintain enough voltage to wake up the pcm while cranking. It will crank the engine but not start. This may only occur in cold weather conditions. It's also important to use the correct gauge cable based on distance from battery to engine.

[Boat Doc']

drillman, you have a 2 stroke, mix the fuel 50:1.

[live to fish]

Thanks boat dock,i will check and see if it is advancing or not properly and get back to you.I just did an oil change and new filter on it last week.Your saying to check that the wires are correct to the plugs from the distrubitor???

[drillman]

thank you much you are once more greatly appreciated

[flipperdog]

Thanks for the information. greatly appreciated!!! Where is the float bowl vent located?? Have looked at diagrams and??
God Bless

Follow-up for those 9.9 bigfoot owners, the float was modified slightly and needle seats as it should and she works, trolls so slow and pretty.
Thanks again Boat Doc for your feedback prompt and concise.
God Bless

[Boat Doc']

livetofish, if it runs the wires are correct. The reason for verifying timing and advance working in specs is to eliminate pinging as the cause of the noise.

[Phillipkol]

Doc:

I am planning to go out of town to buy a used boat with a Mercury Sportjet 200 Optimax inboard. I will only be in the seller's town a day. I really won't have time to take the boat and engine to a mechanic. I am going to have the owner demonstrate the boat and engine. The Sportjet is advertised as a 2003 model with 175 hours.

I have read what I can on "ifish" about the Sportjet problems some people have had but most have good things to say about them.

Can you recommend some trouble shooting steps I can use to examine the engine to discover any major problems with the Sportjet Optimax 200 before I buy it?

Phillipkol

[live to fish]

I checked the timing again and made sure it is advancing and retarding,and it is.I did notice today after it had been running for awhlie and was up to operating temp it starting running rough and died then it didn't want to restart.It would cough choke and sputter and would only stay running if i gave it more throttle.Could it be the lifters colapsing after it warms up.This boat had been sitting for 7-8 years before i got it.

[USCGBoating]

OK, This can't be rocket science but where in the heck is the oil filter on a Yamaha T9.9 4 stroke outboard located?

[Boat Doc']

phillipkol, if it looks clean with no corossion, starts easy and runs smooth without missing it probably is ok. Also look inside the intake and verify the impeeler is in good shape. A compression check would be good if possible- you may have to pull the powerhead to get to the plugs.

[Boat Doc']

livetofish, if the lifters are collapsing they would be making noise. You should check compression, take a fuel sample and try to identify if the problem is ignition, fuel or engine mechanical

[Boat Doc']

uscg, doesn't have one.

[Deandog]

Boat Doc,
I've edited my post since things have changed over the last couple days. I have a 2005 200 Optimax Sportjet that I'm having problems with. It starts no problem, idles great and runs at low rpm just great. Problem is when I get about 3000 rpm and sustain it, it starts to cut-out and die until I throttle back. Or if I punch it and get 5000ish rpm, it dies right away. I think I have a fuel starvation problem like the VST is not staying full of fuel, it runs out at higher power settings.

I have tried a different tank, same result so it's not that. My local dealer recommended 3/8" fuel line and I'm currently running 5/16" which is in my service manual as the minimum. I tried hooking a 6 gallon portable up with a 3/8" line but the in-line fuel filter they sold me had a 5/16" nipple on it so the end result would be the same no matter what.

My intuition is that either the lift-pump, low pressure pump, or the filter is restricting fuel flow.

What size fuel line do you need on a 200 Opti?
Are all the small inline filters the same? Or do they come with 3/8" nipple?
Do lift pumps or low pressure pumps go out very often?
Thanks in advance.

[Boat Doc']

5/16 hose is ok, either pump can fail. Check all fuel line connections making sure they are tight. If you have a water seperating filter try bypassing it, it may be restricting flow and the engine doesn't need it. Some filters do come with 3/8 nipples. We occasionally see the pumps fail

[Wreckless]

I have a new to me 2002 Mercury 4-stroke 9.9. I was told it was "cold blooded" but this thing will not consistantly run.

You can yank the cord for half a day before it turns over, then you yank the cord the rest of the day before it will start. You can rev it higher but once you turn the throttle down to put it into gear; it dies. Then it takes forever to get it started again. After that it might start and it might not but it just keeps repeating the dying process.

We took it to Newport last week and actually managed to get it to operate for 20 minutes...then it died and we were right back to yanking.

I have checked the plugs and I am using fresh premium gas.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[jaxflyfish]

I have a 1992 Custom Weld jet with a 460. Last weekend it overheated on Netarts Bay. (for detail you can read the story at http://www.ifish.net/board/showthread.php?p=2129030#post2129030)

My boat doesn't have a warning buzzer or light which is something I want to install ASAP. Fishkisser recommended this one....http://www.borelmfg.com/products_alarm.htm (http://www.borelmfg.com/products_alarm.htm)

My question is this...will this (or any other) work for both my temp gauge and the buzzer or will I have two thermostats installed on the engine block?

Thanks,

jl

[Boat Doc']

wreckless, first thing to try is adjust the idle mixture screw richer- unsrew it and see if it fixes it. If not you need to disassemble and thoroughly clean the carb.

[Boat Doc']

jaxflyfish, you need a senser for each function. The system you are looking at seems like it will work fine and is easy to install

[Phillipkol]

Dean:

Another trouble shooting step is to trace the entire fuel line looking for pinhole air leaks,pourly seated gaskets or kinked lines,that could account for a loss of pressure.

Phil





Boat Doc,
I've edited my post since things have changed over the last couple days. I have a 2005 200 Optimax Sportjet that I'm having problems with. It starts no problem, idles great and runs at low rpm just great. Problem is when I get about 3000 rpm and sustain it, it starts to cut-out and die until I throttle back. Or if I punch it and get 5000ish rpm, it dies right away. I think I have a fuel starvation problem like the VST is not staying full of fuel, it runs out at higher power settings.

I have tried a different tank, same result so it's not that. My local dealer recommended 3/8" fuel line and I'm currently running 5/16" which is in my service manual as the minimum. I tried hooking a 6 gallon portable up with a 3/8" line but the in-line fuel filter they sold me had a 5/16" nipple on it so the end result would be the same no matter what.

My intuition is that either the lift-pump, low pressure pump, or the filter is restricting fuel flow.

What size fuel line do you need on a 200 Opti?
Are all the small inline filters the same? Or do they come with 3/8" nipple?
Do lift pumps or low pressure pumps go out very often?
Thanks in advance.

[Eastside Dave]

Boat Doc,

I have a 2000, Honda 90HP on my 22ft dory. This past summer, I've noticed that when I'm running a little over 4000 RPM's, my engine periodically acts like it's disengaging, it will maintain the rpm's, but sound 'disengaged' like it's revving. Then, after a few seconds, it sounds as if it's engaging again and will pick up speed. It's been difficult to run much faster than 15 MPH for sustained periods of time. (granted, the ocean hasn't been nice enough to run on this summer!). Any ideas? Thanks! Dave

[Boat Doc']

posible problems could be cavitation, prop hub slipping, intermittent ignition probem or fuel filter starting to plug. Does it happen in smooth water?

[Eastside Dave]

posible problems could be cavitation, prop hub slipping, intermittent ignition probem or fuel filter starting to plug. Does it happen in smooth water?

Smooth water - yes. I had the prop serviced this past spring and prior to that it had never occured before. How difficult is it to fix if it is indeed the prop hub?

I need to change the fuel filter - result of ethonal?

[Boat Doc']

You can send it to a repair shop, also make sure it was properly reinstalled, if the front washer is backwards it may cause the problem, having to change the filter could be the result of ethanol

[fishgetter]

Boat Doc,

I have a 1992 Mariner 175, every few trips, 1 hr of running, I have to top off the upper reservoir with oil because the alarm comes on due to the float switch tripping in the reservoir. Any ideas where to start for the fix?

Thanks in advance.

[Boat Doc']

the system works off air pressure. you fill the upper reservoir by loosening the cap and it should slowly fill-may take a minute to rise an inch. verify the caps on the main tank are tight and the hoses are not kinked or broken. next remove the pick up from the main tank and see if the pickup screen is plugged with gelled oil, clean and drain as necessary. If that is ok remove the air fitting from the lower stbd side of the block and see if the check valve is burn't out, if so replace it, it is normal for it to have a very small hole in it

[fishgetter]

the system works off air pressure. you fill the upper reservoir by loosening the cap and it should slowly fill-may take a minute to rise an inch. verify the caps on the main tank are tight and the hoses are not kinked or broken. next remove the pick up from the main tank and see if the pickup screen is plugged with gelled oil, clean and drain as necessary. If that is ok remove the air fitting from the lower stbd side of the block and see if the check valve is burn't out, if so replace it, it is normal for it to have a very small hole in it

Thanks, I will give it a try.:cool:

[MikeJKB]

Boat Doc
Got any ideas for an '03 Merc 240 SJ that is burning too much oil? About every 3rd start I have to remove and clean the oil off all 6 spark plugs to get it to start. I'm no mechanic but judging by that and the emissions, its running too rich. Varsity question here as 2 other local shops have failed to fix. I believe on the '03s the oil is electronically injected and the break in mode on this engine seems to be perpetually engaged.

[Boat Doc']

Could be anything from the onboard oil reservoir being to full to stuck injecters, tracker valve or? Don't know if we have looked at it, may want to give us a try

[Mr_sturgeon]

I have a late 80's yamaha 70hp that will not stay choked, atleast thats what it acts like. When driving at a slow speed I have to hit the choke switch every few seconds or it will act like its going to die then evetualy does but starts right up with the choke. When standing outside looking at the choke rod and flipping the switch you can see it moving. Any suggestions on what to do? how to fix?
thanks so much
Ken

[Boat Doc']

either the idle mixture screws need to be adjusted richer or the carbs need disassembled and cleaned

[rfishman47]

I have a 1977 century run about,it is powered by a 165hp inline six,mercruiser stern drive.I winterized the boat and it had been in storeage for 5 years.What it is happing.the motor starts up real easy and runs fine,till the engine heats up to around 150 degrees, Running it at about 2600 rpms,the lifter noise starts and is very loud.By coming back down to idle and letting it cool down for awhile you can take off and get back up in rpms and run till it heats back up and starts making noise again.Also it has a loud exhaust after it heats up,but seems to get lower after it cools.
What l've done= compression check,3 at 160 psi,one at 158 psi,one at 152 psi and no. 6 at about 135psi. I have rebuilt the carb since the boat sat so long all the gas had evaperated out of it.I pulled the pulgs and checked them which they are burning black,which would show a rich fuel condition.The enine oil is clean and seems to be ok.The exhaust manifold seems to be running cool enough,but the engine block seems to be alot hotter.I've run the boat at hagg lake for about 2hour run time and we just got back from a trip to the john day river where we put about 6 to 8 miles on the boat,having to run and slow down to cool it down so we could get to where we were going.I'm at witts end as to what the problem is short of tearing the head off to see what I can find.I did check the thermostat like lou said and found it to be open.I will be replacing it and trying it at the lake next week.Is there anything else?

[Boat Doc']

Could it be pinging instead of lifter noise? Base timing and timing advance within specs?

[MikeJKB]

Could be anything from the onboard oil reservoir being to full to stuck injecters, tracker valve or? Don't know if we have looked at it, may want to give us a try

You are next on the list. In the meantime, I talked with Mercury and they think it may be the oil ECM that is bad. I hope not as it is an '03 and warrranty issues for this pricey piece are questionable. I am exploring this issue but you are next in line if the second shop doesn't fix it. Before I go this route I am very tempted to give your shop a shot at it. Thanks.

[Ven0r]

Boat Doc,

Great Q&A going on here.

My question is i just picked up a boat with a 1997 175 sportjet, which isnt starting. It cranks over fine. I removed a sparkplug, and fuel is getting into the cylinder, but no spark. Any ideas on where i should start looking to diagnose the problem?

Thanks

[dlm]

2006 Merc 40 4stroke on 16 Alumaweld Talon.

On the last few trips after raising the engine part or all the way, the power trim will not come back down, then after a few seconds it will.

The first time this happened I thought it was the switch I was using on the side of the engine, but went around to the switch on the throttle and it still would not move, then went back to the switch on the engine engine and down it went.

What should I be looking for?

[Boat Doc']

venor, assuming you have no spark on all the cylinders check the lanyard switch, key switch and stator in that order

[Boat Doc']

dlm, try swapping the relays and see if the up side quits working. Chances are the relay is bad or the wires going to them may have come unplugged.

[rfishman47]

Well I timed the engine to degrees before tdc,it was at about 9to 10.Set the dwell to 32 and pulled the valve cover and ajusted the valves.Turning the rocker nut out till the lifter stated to tap,and tighten the nut dowen 3/4 of a turn.Took boat to the lake and test run.The temp with the new thermostat came up to 145" and stayed between that and 150".The engine seem to run a little better, but after running at 2000 RPMS or better the lifter noise came back after running for about 2 to 3 minutes,only this time it wasn't as bad but still loud.Shut the engine dowen for a while and restarted it there is a little lifter noise but not as loud as it is after running for a couple of minutes at 2500 RPMS.You can bring boat up on plane and the lifter s will sound off again.Whatb to do next.Thanks the fishman

[weekender]

I’ve got a Yamaha F100 that has developed a knock. It’s pretty slight at idle, but the motor also has a loss of power.

One thing I’ve noticed is that the knock is virtually non-existent when the motor is cold, but as it warms up and presumably the oil thins out a bit a knock becomes audible. I’m leaning toward a bearing in the bottom end (it sounds like it’s coming from the crank case), but would like to try a couple other troubleshooting tips before I pull the case. Ideas?

I tried pulling a plug wire to isolate each cylinder, but pulling the top plug wire would result in the motor dying. That was at both idle and fast idle. Is this normal?

[Boat Doc']

you should do a leak down test. If you have a problem there it would explain the issues you are having. The engine would need to come apart.

[Boat Doc']

rfishman47, thought i responded to this before, I would verify you have good oil pressure at the rpm the lifters rattle and if so replace the lifters

[rags]

Boat Doc,
I have a 2000 9.9 Mercury. Lately it has been taking forever to warm-up and once it is warm it will stall if I turn the throttle all the way to the left. When I give it a litlle gas it will sputter. While trolling it sounds like it is slightly revving up and down. I added a fuel stabelizer and filled the tank as here in Tillamook we get a lot of condensation in the tank. Any ideas before I bring it in to Tigard? Would new plugs help?

[Boat Doc']

Before you bring it in try adjusting the idle mixture screw richer. If that doesn't work the carb will possibly need to be cleaned

[Clyde]

Boat Doc...

Well, took your advice from a previous post about my 15hp Mercury 2-stroke being hard to start but still takes about 20 minutes for it to start running. Once it does it runs great, but starting is still terrible. You mentioned something about linkage. Is this something I can adjust? I plan on eventually bringing it in to you guys for service (especially due to your free advice and sponsership with Ifish) but cash is a bit tight right now and need to wait. Thanks for your advice in advance.

[Jetboatgreg]

Boat doc......

I also have a hard starting problem with mercury 2004 175 Sport Jet (with the electric fuel pump)

My local boat mechanic has not been any help. On recommendation i have taken the fuse out (prior to starting) and touched the fuse/wire to the selenoid to operate the fuel pump prior to starting to prime the carbs.

When i start the motor i pull out the silver colored knob on the throttle to disengage the jet, and advance the throttle up to say 1500 or 2000 rpms until the motor clears and warms up....

Problem is sometimes this works and sometimes it does not.....lately it has not worked. (which is a major PIA...especially when you have clients on board) Then i sit for 10 minutes trying to start the engine b4 it finally takes off.

Any suggestions and any suggestions on starting procedures?

Thanks!

[husker]

boat doc

how do i fix the shear pin i broke yesterday? i have an 8 horse 92' 2 stroke merc. i pulled the prop off but there is no shear pin.

do i have to pull the entire lower unit off? anybody know what I broke? the all in 1 handle does not lock in neutral right now. help:(

[Boat Doc']

Clyde, if the idle speed increases when you turn the knob on the front then it's ok. If not the screw on top of the plastic arm needs to be tightened until the slop is gone

[Boat Doc']

husker, there is no shear pin. If the prop spins freely in gear then you need to disassemblethe gearcase to see what's wrong. Make sure you check the prop hub first, it may be spun

[Boat Doc']

jetboatgreg, try starting it in neutral. the sportjet has it's own enrichener that doesn't require advancing the throttle

[Clyde]

Nope that's not it then since ti does increase idle one started. Any other suggestions for the diffecult start?

[Doc Savage]

Boat Doc. I've got twin 150 yam's with an accessory helm on the deck. The problem I'm having is the portside engine dosen't shut off. I took it in and could tell they were perplexed. Spent alot of time with it, replaced the ignition switch on that side in the cabin, checked all the grounds. $650 latter, it still does it. Also had that side die on the tuna troll a couple times, although it ran fine all the way in. Then didn't turn off after loading at the dock. I'm going to have to take it back in, any suggestions as to the problem? Thanks

I should add that sometimes it will eventually shut off ofter several minutes, can be a pain at a crowded ramp

[wannacatchem]

My boat won't start

This morning we were crabbing in tilly bay. Boat started numerous times, no problem. Pulled up to the dock to leave, shut the motor off to go get the truck. Went to start the boat to trailer it - CLICK! nothing else.

Got home, cleaned the boat and started to figure this out.

Pulled the starter off, put the jumper cables on it (from the boat battery) and the starter is good.

Changed the solenoid relay, still just goes CLICK!

I need some ideas here.

The starting system consist of the ignition switch, solenoid relay, solenoid and starter. It was working fine this morning.

we're supposed to fish the columbia tomorrow. I can hot wire the boat, which I will do to be able to fish, but I need to fix it.

3.0 litre Mercury in a 2004 Stryker

[Jetboatgreg]

Boatdoc...

(hardstarting SJ problem again)...When i start it in neutral without advancing the throttle to warm it up its ok for like 10 seconds then dies out and is hard starting as well. The local mechanic told me to advance the throttle when i start it and bump it up once it fires to warm it up.
The enrichner was changed in the winter as a result of my hard starting problem. (i really think my local mechanic is just changing parts cause it hasnt fixed the hardstarting problem) Is the enrichner working properly? I dont know once it stalls if it is starving for fuel or is flooding out?

Once it finally starts (it often takes up to 5 minutes of on and off cranking and spitting and sputtering) and stays started there is usually a big cloud of oil smoke. Once it is warmed up its fine and starts and runs well...

I am about ready to put a gun to my head its so frustrating!

[Boat Doc']

Clyde, if it runs good after warmed up then it would probably be procedure. You could try pulling the choke an extra time or two to see if that helps

[Boat Doc']

doc savage, Besides checking grounds, harness plugins and switches there may be a diode somewhere in the ignition circuit that could be blown

[Boat Doc']

wannakatchem, check battery connections, only other idea may be water in the cylinders

[Boat Doc']

jetboatgreg, Verify the idle speed is around 1100, should also verify the throttle linkage is correctly set up.

[Jetboatgreg]

Will do on the rpm.....How would i ck the throttle linkage to see if it is correctly set up?

Tanx!!

G

[Boat Doc']

If it runs good after warmup it probably is not linkage related. If it needs to be adjusted you would need a manual

[Jetboatgreg]

Yes, it does run great after warm up....its just getting it to that point that is driving me nuts!!!

[Jetboatgreg]

Ok, this is what i did...I started it in the garage.

1. I turned the key till the engine "beeps".....I verified i did hear the enrichner "click" when the key was turned on.

2. Engine started relatively quickly (i ran it yesterday) and came up to 1100rpm and idled for approx 20 seconds then the engine died out as if it was starved for fuel.

3. Started the engine again, started up quickly again and died out much quicker this time.

4. Started the engine for the 3rd time, it spitted and sputtered and died really quickly..perhaps 5 or seconds.

5. Started the engine for the 4th time and now the engine just cranks without firing....(this is typical of almost EVERY Time i start the engine) It will crank and crank then eventually spit and sputter again and with after much playing (by advancing the throttle out of gear, continue cranking) it will eventually start.

I am just throwing this out since i am probably the worlds worst mechanic...it doesnt sound like its getting fuel after initial start up. Do i have a bad fuel pump or blocked filter, is the enrichner valve bad already? The filter was supposedly changed during my winter pre-season maintenance and the enrichner was also changed at that time.

I am prepriming by running the fuel pump off the selonoid prior to starting (by removing the fuse to the pump and touching it to the selenoid, you can hear the fuel pump running. Sometimes it sounds like there is no fuel in after it sits for an extended time, and you can hear the pump pick up the fuel....other times, like today...you run the fuel pump after the engine ran yesterday and you can tell it already is loaded)

Thanks for help DOC.

G

[Klamanite]

Boat Doc,

I have a 2006 4-stroke Merc 8 HP kicker. I replaced the plugs, fuel filter, crancase and gearcase oil in April and have had no problems prior or after. I just ran it for a solid 3 days trolling, packed up and went to another lake and 2 hrs later it wouldn't start. I got home replaced the plugs and still no-go. I pulled the dipstick and found the dreaded milky oil. Where do I go from here?

[wannacatchem]

My boat won't start

This morning we were crabbing in tilly bay. Boat started numerous times, no problem. Pulled up to the dock to leave, shut the motor off to go get the truck. Went to start the boat to trailer it - CLICK! nothing else.

Got home, cleaned the boat and started to figure this out.

Pulled the starter off, put the jumper cables on it (from the boat battery) and the starter is good.

Changed the solenoid relay, still just goes CLICK!

I need some ideas here.

The starting system consist of the ignition switch, solenoid relay, solenoid and starter. It was working fine this morning.

we're supposed to fish the columbia tomorrow. I can hot wire the boat, which I will do to be able to fish, but I need to fix it.

3.0 litre Mercury in a 2004 Stryker


wannakatchem, check battery connections, only other idea may be water in the cylinders

Actually it was severe corrosion in the wiring harness for the engine. Where the quick disconnect is about 4 inches towards the engine.

The crappy way they put it together.

They bare the insulation on the main power wire from the battery and then solder on two wires. One goes to the 50 amp breaker and one goes to the starter solenoid relay. There is no insulation or any type of water exclusion covering. Then they wrap it with cloth tape, then electrical tape, then put a plastic slide on cover over it. When it gets wet, it probably stays wet for the 5 years I've had the boat. I found two other connection made the same way ( and badly corroded) and repaired them too. There is one more connection where they soldered about eight 16 guage wires to a 10 guage wire the same way, it is badly corroded but is still solid. It will need to be repaired in the near future.

In my mind, Whom ever sells these boats with this engine needs to strip that wiring harness down if they come from the factory that way, make the repairs to the wiring and sell a good product.

As a result of what I've found. I am going to have to go thru all the wiring in my boat and repair this crap. If this had happened while I was out in the ocean or when my wife and three year old were on the boat I'd be justifiably upset.

I'm upset any way.

I've worked on 40 year old aircraft with better wiring than this. The poor workmanship is inexcusable.

If Stevens Marine would like to see what I'm talking about, PM me and I'll be happy to bring my boat in to show you. Except for the fact that it would be a losing battle as the warranty on the boat has run out, I feel they need to replace the wiring harness free of charge.

I will be sending them an email regarding this

Paul Vincent

[TrapperJohn]

Boat Doc, I have a '92 SeaSwirl 25-5 with a King Cobra 5.8L Ford engine. I understand that the block is a 351W and some of these engines were actually built to NASCAR specs and placed in the Ford Torino.

How do I locate the maker code/pn on the cam? I just had mine replaced for the second time and suspect that the last one was the wrong cam for that engine.

[Boat Doc']

jetboatgreg, you definitely have a fuel pump/fuel supply issue.I would suspect the fuel pickup or check valve. you migt try hooking it up to a remote tank and see if it stays running

[Boat Doc']

you should be able to change the oil and plugs and have it be fine. verify the engine comes up to temperature and if you have a hot box that you keep the valve closed as much as possible

[Boat Doc']

trapperjohn, I would refer you to a ford dealer for id location and which cam you need based on that

[Klamanite]

Boat Doc,

I have a 2006 4-stroke Merc 8 HP kicker. I replaced the plugs, fuel filter, crancase and gearcase oil in April and have had no problems prior or after. I just ran it for a solid 3 days trolling, packed up and went to another lake and 2 hrs later it wouldn't start. I got home replaced the plugs and still no-go. I pulled the dipstick and found the dreaded milky oil. Where do I go from here?

you should be able to change the oil and plugs and have it be fine. verify the engine comes up to temperature and if you have a hot box that you keep the valve closed as much as possible

I assume this response was for me? I understand the oil change and plugs, but what was/is the source of the water intrusion and how do I prevent it in the future? I don't have a hot box (assuming hot hand washer here?) so that shouldn't be an issue. I'm knowledgable in engine operation principles and my first inclination was a head gasket or cracked block as the source of the water. Is there something I'm missing?

Thanks in advance :)

[Jetboatgreg]

Doc, I am going to get a portable tank, hook it up and ck it out....

The one ? i have is...If it is the fuel pickup or ck valve causing the hard starting problem why does the boat run fine once its warmed up? If it was pickup or ck valve wouldnt this cause it not to get fuel all the time?

thanks..
G

[billc_sbio]

I posted this on the general Boat and Motor Tech Forum, but maybe I should have posted it here?

I'll give this a try also...

I have a late 90's Merc 115 w/Jet Pump on my sled.

Generally speaking it has very low hours on it.

The other day I was out fishing, it fired up/ran fine, as usual.

Each of 2 times we hooked landed 'nooks, I fired it up and we went back up and got in line...NO Problems.

While sitting there I reached over and flipped the Auto-Tilt/Trim Switch.

It DIDN'T move, but the Solenoid went "click, click" when I toggled it. (To me this means the high current leads/terminals are probably dirty/corroded and need cleaning?)

That was the ONLY "thing" that I did differently or to it.

Then, when starting up to return to the launch ramp, it went "Beep" when I turned on the key (normal) but when I fired up the motor it continously went "Beep, beep, beep".

I don't have an Owner's Manual or shop repair manual for this motor, but I know that the Beep, Beep usually means the motor's low on oil or it's not being delivered, or the motor's overheating.

My Oil Tank's 7/8th full and I have a good Tell Tale of water out of the engine, so I really don't think it's either one, but I certainly didn't want to take a chance so I shut it down and returned to the ramp on my kicker.

I suspect that I did "something", electrically, when I toggled my Tilt Switch. :passout:

Who's got any ideas on this, and how can I check it out/repair it?

Any ideas? :shrug:

:cheers:
__________________

[Boat Doc']

Klamanite, sorry that was for you. If the thermostat is stuck open and the engine is running cold condensation can build up in the pan. If the thermostat is functioning then the powerhead base gasket should be replaced

[Boat Doc']

jetboatgreg, I was thinking something might be loose resulting in low supply at cranking speed

[Boat Doc']

billc sbio steady horn means overheat, intermittant horn means low on oil. If you have a intermittant horn and the oil isn't low try unplugging the wire going to the sensor on the bottom of the tank. If the horn quits either the sensor is bad or the float is sunk in the tank. If the horn stays on then the warning module is bad

[Jetboatgreg]

Ok doc....

I ran the fuel pump again with the selenoid when i got home....didnt seem to be picking up any fuel at all when i ran it...started the motor it spit and sputtered for an instant...then nothing it just cranked.

When i turned the key to the on position the fuel pump was not running..i assume that is normal and doesnt come on until you start the motor.

I got a portable tank and hooked the bulb up to the inlet of the fuel filter...when i removed the boats gas hose from the fuel filter there was no fuel coming out anywhere...there was none dripping from the fuel filter
and there was not any gas in the fuel line.

I hooked the gas line from the priming bulb up to the inlet of the fuel filter and attempted to start it....it spit and sputtered but after several times it did start and ran at idle.

I am going to let it sit over night and try and restart it when i leave for work in the am...

Did i find the problem? Is it the ck valve in the gas tank or do you think i have a bad fuel pump?

(started it this am....primer bulb was full and hard) started right up and came up to idle easily and smooth.

G

[Klamanite]

Klamanite, sorry that was for you. If the thermostat is stuck open and the engine is running cold condensation can build up in the pan. If the thermostat is functioning then the powerhead base gasket should be replaced

Doc', thanks for the responses so far. Last night I drained and flushed the oil, new plugs were already in and again it would not start. I had fuel all the way to the carb. I pulled the carb and completely disassembled it, cleaned all of the ports with compressed air, re-installed it and it started in 2 pulls. Here's the rest of the story. I originally thought there was water in the oil due to the color on the dipstick. After draining it (it ran out like straight water, no viscosity left), I realized from the smell that it was fouled with fuel. Also, after sitting for a period of time the oil would not separate like water normally would do. At this point my only idea is that the mechanical fuel pump has a bad seal and is bypassing fuel into the valve housing. Is there any other reason that you know of that would allow enough fuel to cause this into the crankcase? For the no-start, could this be an ethanol-based issue, or just bad luck that something created a blockage in the carb?

Thanks again for your help :flowered:

[billc_sbio]

billc sbio steady horn means overheat, intermittant horn means low on oil. If you have a intermittant horn and the oil isn't low try unplugging the wire going to the sensor on the bottom of the tank. If the horn quits either the sensor is bad or the float is sunk in the tank. If the horn stays on then the warning module is bad

Boat Doc,

Thanks,

Yes, it's "intermittent", i.e. it's going "Beep, beep, beep" rather than "Beeeeeep"

I can't get over the fact that it happened right AFTER I tried the Auto Tilt/Trim, which only caused the solenoids to go "click".

(I get into the habit when thinking these things through like, "What was the LAST thing I did before this happened?" Especially if it was different than usual:idea:)

Is there some way that I could have "triggered" something electrically by doing that?:shrug:

:cheers:

[ReelClass]

Hi Boatdoc,

The manual for my Yamaha 225 OB (6.0 liter engine oil capacity including filter) recommends using an oil extractor in preference to the usual oil change process of tilting motor up and to side and removing oil drain plug. I assume this is to avoid the mess from oil dripping down the side of the engine, etc but I wasn't sure if there were other reasons. I've never used an oil extractor before, but I'd certainly be interested as the process sounds easy and clean compared to the typical oil change. Do you think they do an equally good job of removing all the old oil/residue? Are these used by dealers who do oil changes? Any specific brand/model (eg Pela 6000) you would recommend?

Thanks,
Mike

[Boat Doc']

jetboatgreg, try letting the fuel pump draw from the portable tank without squeezing the bulb, if it continues to work ok then you have a check valve or pickup issue

[Boat Doc']

klaminate, fuel in the crankcase would have to come from the fuel pump or the carb is flooding

[Boat Doc']

billc sbio, possibly you have or had loose battery connections which may have caused a surge?

[Boat Doc']

reelclass, in my opinion if you have a drain plug use it as that is the only way you get all the oil out. We use the plug method on all outboards here. As for recommends I am not familiar with them enough to comment. We use a air/vacuum machine here for our inboards that works slick. but it runs around 700.00

[billc_sbio]

billc sbio, possibly you have or had loose battery connections which may have caused a surge?

Thanks Boat Doc,

I'll go back and check ALL electrical connections...

I'm thinking it is something more along those lines.

:cheers:

[DTSportsman]

Boat Doc could you check out this thread and my issues?
http://www.ifish.net/board/showthread.php?t=214094

Thanks,
Daryn

[Klamanite]

Klamanite, sorry that was for you. If the thermostat is stuck open and the engine is running cold condensation can build up in the pan. If the thermostat is functioning then the powerhead base gasket should be replaced

klaminate, fuel in the crankcase would have to come from the fuel pump or the carb is flooding

Thanks Doc'.

Could carb flooding be caused by leaving the fuel hose/primer bulb attached all the time or would the carb have to have a separate problem of its' own?

Thanks again, you have been very helpful :applause:

[Boat Doc']

THERTE IS NO SHEAR PIN, YOU EITHER SPUN THE RUBBER HUB ON THE PROP OR BROKE A GEAR OR SHAFT. i WOULD LEAN TOWARDS THE HUB. WITH THE ENGINE OFF AND THE CONTROL IN GEAR TURN THE PROP AND SEE IF THE BLADES TURN AND THE SHAFT STAYS STILL, IF SO THE HUB IS BAD

[Jetboatgreg]

Boat Doc.....Sport jet fuel issue update.

Finally got back from the weekend and had time to get under the boats seat and pull the fuel pickup out...

Bottom Line is....THERE IS NO CHECK VALVE ANYWHERE!!!! the line runs from the fuel filter at the engine straight back to the gas tank and then goes into a 1/4 female x 3/8 male elbow straight into the gas tank pick up...I cked inside the fitting and its a straight shot...

Also blew air thru the gas line and its a clean shot as well.

Pick up was clean with no debris just no check valve anywhere!!!!!!

Now do i just install a check valve and i am home free?

I let the engine sit over the weekend with the portable tank set up...didnt prime the bulb..it started right up and continued to prrrrrrr like a kitten!!

thanks

G

[Ronaldo Stonehead]

Boat Doc, where do I connect my ez stear rod to my 2005 Merc. 8 ML?

[Dingis]

Hi there Boat Doc, I recently bought a mercury 9.9 short shaft(serial number od017888) and need to replace the pump impellor on the lower unit. I cannot figure out what I need to do to remove the lower unit- do I have to take apart something in the shift linkage, or is this a splined shifting component that will come apart with some prying/moving? Thanks.

[Boat Doc']

jetboatgreg, yes install a check valve, the fuel is probably draining back into the tank and has to crank until it is reprimed

[Boat Doc']

renaldo, mid section above the gearcase just below the clamp bracket

[Boat Doc']

dingis, if it's a 2 stroke ther is a clip on the stbd side of the carb that releases the shift linkage. If it's a 4 stroke there is a coulpling that unscrews just above the gearcase

[fishgetter]

Boat Doc:

Today I get home with the boat and notice smoke coming from the cowling on my outboard. I pull the cowling and see a electical wire with no sheathing, bare wire. There was a small fire or it got hot enough to melt other wires as well. I can see that I have to replace the harness but I'm concerned what may have caused this. This was the black wire off of the main harness. I had to unplug the main harness as it was really hot as well, had I not unplugged it I'm sure it would have caught fire again.

The good news is the motor ran fine when I shut it off. I believe I can replace the harness myself, any ideas what to look for as a cause?

The motor is a 175 Mariner, 1992.

Thanks Boat Doc!

[rags]

Boat Doc,
I purchased a can of the Power Tune for my 2002 Mercury 9.9. When I pull the hose off of the air filter do I spray the Power Tune into the hose or the nipple it is connected too? Or is there a better way to use this product? Thank You.

[Maddie'sDaddy]

Hi Doc


This doesnt seem to be normal, the oil is coming from the gasket area between the power head and lower unit, seems as though maybe the exaust might be coming out of there instead of the hole in the middle where it should be:shrug: Any advise on this one


http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/motor_005.jpg




MD

[Boat Doc']

fishgetter, the voltage regulater would normally be the source of a electrical fire, caused by loose battery connections. If the black wires are melted look for loose or missing grounds

[Boat Doc']

rags, you can spray it into the carb throat

[Boat Doc']

maddiesdaddy, it appears the gasket must be leaking. If so you will have to remove the powerhead and possibly the adapter plate to replace whichever one is leaking

[Maddie'sDaddy]

maddiesdaddy, it appears the gasket must be leaking. If so you will have to remove the powerhead and possibly the adapter plate to replace whichever one is leaking



Thats what I was affraid of, seems the motor runs ok , My worry is I have allready run into problems with stuck(corroded) Nuts and bolts with this motor due to salt or electrolosis or something, might have to go real slow with it.

Thank You

[rags]

Boat Doc,
How do I access the throat of the carb. On the front is the silencer? Do I need to remove the two long bolts? Or on the top is a plate with two phillip screws. Is this how I get to the carb? 2002 9.9 Mercury. I talked to Gary in your Milwaukee store and he told me not to use the power tune on a 4 stroke motor. Is this correct? Said it won't help. First I have heard of this.

[Boat Doc']

Power tune is meant for 2 strokes. Quik clean is a fuel additive that is for 4 strokes

[rags]

I used the Power Tune and it runs like a new motor.

[HuntNFishAddict]

Boat Doc,
Is there a way to turn my Yami F8 Longshaft 20" into an XL 25" shaft? If so what would it run me for the parts?
Thanks a ton.

[Boat Doc']

if they offer it as a xl you would need to purchase the individual parts and install them. Possibly not economically feasible. You may be cheaper off to sell what you have and buy an xl motor

[Boat Doc']

On vacation back 11/3 Happy Fishin!

[Wigeon Pete]

Boat Doc - I have an 06 Nissan 40 hp direct inject outboard. About 6 months ago it started stalling when at idle and in gear. First off I replaced the plugs, but that didn't help. I do run the boat a lot; all duck season and then fishing. I've had it in to a shop several times this summer and they haven't been able to figure anything out. I noticed the primer bulb leaking, so I replaced that. I use two gas tanks alternating between one and then the other between fill-ups. Not being able to idle in gear is not only annoying, but can be dangerous at the dock. Any help would be appreciated.

Pete

[hkbates]

Dear Boat Doc: I have looked for a thread regarding my problem without success so I thought I’d see if you could help me out. I have a 1998 Mercury Sport Jet 175-XR2 powered boat. It has performed flawlessly with regular maintenance for the years I’ve owned it. However, it has now developed a problem. It started when on throttle up towing a heavy tube I had to cut the throttle to idle from near WOT. The engine stalled. However, when I restarted the engine it did not want to run at idle for more than a few seconds before it died again. That is the current case. It starts easily enough and if I throttle up as soon as the engines catches, it will run at between 3000 and 3500 rpm (~25mph), but it never reaches cruising speed nor will it run at idle or above around 3500rpm. By way of answering some common questions, the plugs have about five hours on them and are all burning clean, the fuel filter has been replaced, and the fuel pump appears to be working fine (gas comes out when the engine is turned over).

I suspect that one of the carburetors has a problem, but I’d like to ask for opinions from everyone. Thank you for any help you can give!

[Tyler5592]

Hi Boat Doc,

I own a 1972 20 hp Johnson outboard. In the past it has always worked great. Lately, I have been having troubles with it running on only one cylinder for the first few minutes that it is running and then it will hit on both after that. If you shut it off and start it right back up the same scenario seems to play out.

I replaced the spark plug wire and both spark plugs seem to have spark.

Any suggestions?

Thanks.

Tyler

[smalldog]

See if your bulb is hanging instead of on its side...it should have a check valve in it that works.



Boat Doc.....Sport jet fuel issue update.

Finally got back from the weekend and had time to get under the boats seat and pull the fuel pickup out...

Bottom Line is....THERE IS NO CHECK VALVE ANYWHERE!!!! the line runs from the fuel filter at the engine straight back to the gas tank and then goes into a 1/4 female x 3/8 male elbow straight into the gas tank pick up...I cked inside the fitting and its a straight shot...

Also blew air thru the gas line and its a clean shot as well.

Pick up was clean with no debris just no check valve anywhere!!!!!!

Now do i just install a check valve and i am home free?

I let the engine sit over the weekend with the portable tank set up...didnt prime the bulb..it started right up and continued to prrrrrrr like a kitten!!

thanks

G

[DowntownBrowns]

1991 Mercury 115hp outboard. I'm having trouble getting it started. I can ususally get it going after 5-10 minutes trying, though. Once I get it started, it runs great, but if I leave it off for more than 5-10 minutes it has trouble starting again. Turns over fine and will fire up every other time, but as soon as I give it throttle, it will sputter and die. I'm giving it plenty of pumps on the choke. The bulb will fill up then after I try to start it for a little while the bulb needs squeezed again, which makes me think I might have a fuel filter problem of something...? HELP!

[Pete]

Dear Boat Doc' ...

My 2003 2 stroke Mercury 8 horse seems to have developed a problem. Since new, it's been the most reliable, consistent, quiet, one-pull fishing machine. Last time I used it, it started sputtering out. It would start again with one pull, but if I try to rev it up, it chokes itself out. Now it will start, with some effort, but it runs for 15 seconds and then dies.

The choke doesn't seem to make a difference.

I've changed the plugs and originally thought I might have a problem with separated gas. So I drained the tank, the line and the bulb, and started with fresh gas. No change.

What do you suggest I look at, next? I'd like to get out next weekend, but things aren't looking very positive right now.

[fishgetter]

fishgetter, the voltage regulater would normally be the source of a electrical fire, caused by loose battery connections. If the black wires are melted look for loose or missing grounds


Boat Doc,

I just tested the rectifier and it does not check out good, would this cause a fire/short? I have replaced the harness but do not want to hook it up until I find a "Cause". Your help is appreciated.

Fishgetter

[Wilmyster]

Boat Doc,

My 2007 Alumaweld with a 50 horse 2 stroke has begun to let the motor drift down form the position I left it in for towing, about a 30 degree kick. I went to tow it the other day, after it had set for @ 3 weeks and the motor was all the way down? Is this normal, or do I have a hydraluic issue? As a note the battery was very week and had to be charged, could this be a factor?

Thanks

[Jennie@ifish]

I've been asked where the boat doc is, lately, and then I read this. (http://www.ifish.net/board/showpost.php?p=2191459&postcount=2366)

Guess he'll be back on 11/3! :)

[marley]

Boat doc,

I have my 225 2003 optimax in your shop in Tigard, just brought it in yesterday. What happened is I was running on the willamette and the motor just kind of locked up and died while I was running. After it died I started it back up and got up on plane and it would only get up to about 3500 rpms before it just shut off (locked up) while I was moving. After this, I started it back up and in neutral and in gear you can hear a clunking/banging sound, just kind of idling extremely rough. I brought it into the shop and the mechanic thinks that it sounds like the lower unit when he was was turning the prop in gear.

They can't look at it for about a week, so I guess I'm just worried that I'll have to have the head rebuilt, because he said that is a possibility. From what I've expierenced does it sound like the lower unit to you or the head?
By the way I didn't hit anything in the water, no prop damage.

thanks for any input
Jesse

[kenai]

Doctor Doctor give me the news
Vitals: 2004 15hp bigfoot merc 4 stroke, 2 cyl,kicker

runs very rough, will not idle, thought maybe it was fuel starved so I changed the fuel filter. removed one plug and cleaned it, fair amount of carbon, couldn't remove bottom plug due to clearances for socket (whose idea was that?) No ethanol in fuel, main motor runs fine off same fuel plumbing. Where should I look next?

[Boat Doc']

wigeon pete, other things to check would be water in fuel, injecter pressure and possibly intermittent loss of spark. Good luck

[Boat Doc']

hkbates, try pulling the plug wires one at a time and see which ones have no effect then determine if it has spark on those cylinders. possible issues would be spark plugs, no spark, no fuel, water in fuel or reed valves.

[Boat Doc']

tyler5592, normally your problem would be the power pack, you should check output to verify. Also make sure you have the correct plugs

[Boat Doc']

downtownbrowns, if it runs good after startup then it may be the carbs are set to lean which would also explain the bog on acceleration

[Boat Doc']

Pete, if you haven't already fixed it I would guess either a stop switch is bad or the carb needs cleaned

[Boat Doc']

fishgetter, yes it can cause a fire, make sure you check for loose connections

[Boat Doc']

willmyster, the manual release screw may not be screwed all the way in.If its not that then you would be looking at internal o-rings or seals

[Boat Doc']

marley, I don't think your boat is here, I would guess it has powerhead issues

[Boat Doc']

kenai, you need to go thru the carb and clean it thoroughly

[FishnVandal]

Hey Boat Doc,

I have a 1992 40hp yamaha jet drive. Last week I was cruising at just a titch under wide open. Next thing I know the motor starts vibrating violently and then makes some loud/fast clicking noises. I shut it down immediately and limped back to the doc.

After looking for possible fuel issues and replacing plugs, I took it back out on the water for a test run. No more loud clicking noise, but I have no top end power and the motor runs rough when idling and just doesn't quite sound right. I haven't checked compression, but I know it's very low considering a 5 yr old year could pull start my motor. Not good.

Any ideas or is this puppy shop bound?

Thanks in advance for your time and for this great service you provide.

[Boat Doc']

start with checking compression, if it's low the head needs to come off to see whats needed or just take it to the shop

[Wilmyster]

willmyster, the manual release screw may not be screwed all the way in.If its not that then you would be looking at internal o-rings or seals

Okay, thanks, since it is under warranty I may schedule a visit

[Uboat]

Boat Doc:

I have a 1998 175 SportJet. This weekend it started right up and I ran up the river and started fishin'. I restarted it a couple of time a with no problems, then it became hard to start and it sputterd with cylinders kicking in and out when it came off idle. On full throttle it would start running smoothly but just to about 3500 RPM at best and would not go any higher and there was no sputtering. I changed the plugs and it continues to do this. Any ideas???

THANKS!!!!!

[Boat Doc']

I would start with a fuel sample. If it's ok then check spark. I would suspect the stator. It has a high and low speed circuit.

[unionguynw]

Buddy of mine with a 2006 NR Seahawk dumped about 1-2oz of orange floor cleaner in his tank instead of stabil. No he was not trying to remove sludge from his tank and lines.....:laugh::laugh: Do you think it will hurt? Should he drain the tank? I belive the tank is over 30 gallons, my idea was to add some water remover, change the water/fuel separator and then change it again once he runs the tank out..........Any ideas??

PS don't just look at the shape of the bottle/color of the liquid........read the label!!!!

What do you say Doc?

[Boat Doc']

I wouldn't add the water remover. Instead run it and dump the filter after an hour or so. 1-2 ounces of a liquid in a water seperating filter is nothng to worry about.

[DowntownBrowns]

Boat Doc:

I have a 1998 175 SportJet. This weekend it started right up and I ran up the river and started fishin'. I restarted it a couple of time a with no problems, then it became hard to start and it sputterd with cylinders kicking in and out when it came off idle. On full throttle it would start running smoothly but just to about 3500 RPM at best and would not go any higher and there was no sputtering. I changed the plugs and it continues to do this. Any ideas???

THANKS!!!!!

I would check the black box for the left bank of cyclinders...:meme:

[baltz526]

i need to confirm a prop selection. this for a 1994 johnson 15hp model # J15EERE from searching, the only prop i find on the evenrude/johnson parts list here http://shop2.evinrude.com/ext/index.aspx?s1=a5a00bbbaa57a803d5dfff4ee16c2a7f is the 9.5x12.5 is this correct. what is on it now, (bought motor used) is a 8.25x8. 9.5" seems to large to fit. correction: hit the prop with light it is 9.25x8. so 9.5" is fine. is 12.5 pitch OK?

[Boat Doc']

for trolling the one you have is best. If this is the primary engine on a light 1-2 person boat then you could try the larger one.

[GreshamFisher]

Boat Doc'

I have a new 2008 Chevy 350 engine in my alumaweld. The last few times out, after a few minutes on the water, the engine chokes, acts like it wants to die... it coughs a few times, then rpms go back up and I'm off and the motor is fine the rest of the day. Just happens in the first 5 minutes, once, and then all is well. I have a fuel water seperator. Any ideas?

thanks,

Kurt

[Boat Doc']

Start with checking all the fuel line connections for being tight. Also if you have a trolling motor make sure the primer bulb isn't laying flat or pointed downhill. If it is reposition it. Lastly check the fuel filter to see if there is any water or debris in it. You might also make sure it is fully warmed up. If it's not fully warmed up that could be the problem

[DowntownBrowns]

Boat Doc,
My 1991 Mercury 115hp (inline 4) blew up. I have a line on a 1989 100hp Mercury inline 4 powerhead with excellent compression for a dang good price ($800). Will this work on my motor?

[Boat Doc']

yes, but the carbs are different. It looks like the bores are bigger on the 115. Not sure if that would be a problem. It may be you make the 100 a 115. Or it may have runability issues related to the carbs not matching

[eharris]

Boat Doc, I have not needed your help yet but I just can't believe how cool this is that someone can get a professional response with such ease. Thank you in advance for your help and support.

Evan

[30pound-tasty-fish]

Hey boat doc,

I have an 89 Merc 90HP. My fish finder reads about 18V when I am wide open and the battery is fully charged. Some folks have told me that it might be the voltage regulator on the motor. I called Steven's today and they said it was about a $200 part. Is there a test I can do to make sure it is bad before I replace it?

Thanks
~30#

[Boat Doc']

Needs to be upgraded to a regulated system., and yes it is about 200 in parts

[tracer16]

Boat doc, i have a 2005 merc 40 hp 2 stroke on my smoker craft, it quit running a few months ago and i spent 2 weeks messing with it. come to find out it had a sheared flywheel key. i replaced it and now it runs. i was wondering if this happens often or is it some kind of fluke thing. thank you for any imput

[Boat Doc']

It is rare to see them shear. Normally caused by the engine stopping suddenly

[bassnwhaler]

:pray:Boat Doc! This is so cool...thanks. I have an 83-ish 40 hp Evinrude 2 stroke and it has developed a slow oil leak where the rubber gasket thing is at the middle of the lower unit. It drips out when i raise the engine to trailer. can i run it like this, or do i need to get it fixed asap? It is a real slow leak, more of an ooze.

[Boat Doc']

Assuming the seal is where the cowls attaches you should eliminate the source of the oil/fuel. It will probably be a loose or broken fuel line. It may also leak exhaust into the cowl causing a rough running condition

[CKthumper]

Boat Doc-

My stearing cable has gotten very stiff (wheel hard to turn). It's a Teleflex cable in a 19 ft Hewescraft, 12 yrs old. Is there a way to lube it other than smearing grease on the shaft?

Thanks

[Boat Doc']

You need to pull the cable out of the motor and clean the old grease off it and regrease it. If it's still stiff the cable will need replaced

[corkyking]

Boat Doc - I am unhappy with the shift and throttle lever that came on my Alumaweld with the 175 Sportjet. It seems to require far too much effort when shifting. I really have to fight it sometimes. I get a little nervous when docking and performing other manuevers. I bought the factory manual and it tells me what to do to adjust the controls but it hasn't helped as much as I had hoped. Have you heard of a different set of controls perhaps with two levers which will work? I'd really like to get the thing working smoothly so that I can relax a bit. Thanks

[Boat Doc']

The first question is if it's still stiff with the engine not running. If it's not the idle speed needs adjusted. If it's still stiff the cables or buckety need replaced or lubed. Dual lever controls are a option but not necessarily the solution

[Bonk]

Boat Doc

I just purchased a 15 foot Alaskan from you guys it's outfitted with four seat boxes. I am trying to find a way to mount an Miller anchor roller on the bow and have decided that i will be getting diamond plating welded and mounted to attach the roller to. I am thinking about also getting it for the front of the bow past the bench to add some storage. The material will weigh about 80 or so pounds. Will this be to much weight up front or will it help keep the bow down. I have a 2002 25 horse Merc as my motor.

Thanks

[danger]

I have a 175 SJ that has intermitant problems with the starter engaging the flywheel.

Every so often, usually an inconvienient time, the starter will spin but not engage the flywheel. I can usually lift the cover and thump the starter a few times and then it will work.

I have sprayed the shaft with oil, and it hasn't cured the problem. Hard to tell if it has helped considering the intermitant nature of the problem.

Do I need an entire new starter, can I get it rebuilt, take it out and clean it myself.

Thoughts...?

[Boat Doc']

80 LBS especially with one person shoul help to keep the bow down, if it tries to ride bow down you can trim the engine up a notch to compensate

[Boat Doc']

Danger, try removing the starter and then the starter drive, clean any old grease from the shaft and lube it with a light grease

[DJD]

My bass buddy has a 2000 merc 175 efi that is a bugger to start after you stop and fish for an hour or so. It starts up fairly easy when you first put it in the water(just turn the key); but run across the lake, stop and fish for a while, and then it doesnt want to start up again. You have to disengage the shift lever and open the throttle some and then MAYBE it will start again; usually seeems flooded when it finally does start. This problem seems to have the local mechinics stumped. They seem to agree it is some kind of electrical issue but what? Can you shed any light on this problem? Thanks for any insight!

[CKthumper]

Hi Doc,

I posted a couple days ago about stiff steering. I tried to get the cable out of the motor (90hp, 2003 Honda), but it seemed to require some significant effort. Is there a trick to it or does the whole cable, disconnected at the steering linkage, need backed out through the hinge tube?

How much $$ for a new cable? For you to install?

Thanks
CK

[Boat Doc']

DJD, assuming spark and compression are good check the fuel pressure to see it is in specs and also see if it drops off rapidly after the key is off. Thinking sticky injecter, leaky pulse pump, engine running cold or bad reeds.

[Boat Doc']

ckthumper, the cable backs out of the hinge point, it should easily pull out. If not it will need to be driven out. Cables run about 100.00. Install can be 100-300 depending on weather the motor needs pulled to get it out

[CKthumper]

Doc-
The cable moves within the joint, but there is no where to go with the slack as it backs out. Can the cable and steering box be disconnected from the wheel and all slid out the front? The cable is installed above and held in by floatation foam in the gunwale.

I could un bolt the motor and slide it off the cable, but was hoping for an easier trick.

There does appear to be a lot of dirt/grease on as much of the cable as I've been able to expose.

Thanks
CK

[wallace g]

My bass buddy has a 2000 merc 175 efi that is a bugger to start after you stop and fish for an hour or so. It starts up fairly easy when you first put it in the water(just turn the key); but run across the lake, stop and fish for a while, and then it doesnt want to start up again. You have to disengage the shift lever and open the throttle some and then MAYBE it will start again; usually seeems flooded when it finally does start. This problem seems to have the local mechinics stumped. They seem to agree it is some kind of electrical issue but what? Can you shed any light on this problem? Thanks for any insight!

[Boat Doc']

ckthumper, the engine will need to be slid away to remove the cable

[Johnandhis4x4]

I have a question;
I have a 318 Chrysler inboard, and over the weekend I tuned up the engine. I checked the oil before I started her and it was clean + clear (the motor hasnt run since the oil was changed in sept), but when i checked it this morning it was a grey/brown color? I was going to change the oil again and see what happened, but I was going to ask you or anyone else who knows whats going on?

When the previous owner winterized it(in sept) , he used mystery magic oil. Putting in a little bit at a time then dumping it in the carb to "lube" everything and keep it from rusting. Not sure if this is exactly a good thing, but its what he did. Is this what I am seeing in the oil?

Thank you, any advice is greatly appreciated!

[Boat Doc']

John, if the oil level hasn't increased then it could be related to the winterize. If it is increasing then you are looking at damaged coolers or block or heads

[Johnandhis4x4]

Hasnt increased, but i am going to change the oil just to make sure everything runs ok. Thanks for the advice!

[Jsteel]

Boat Doc --

I have a 2001 19 foot Alumaweld with a front fish box. I don't use the front fish box. What I'd like to do is weld a piece of aluminum over the top opening to the fish box (currently has a hatch cover) so I would have a flush solid surface across the bow compartment that water wouldn't get into. Would also need to weld the small drainage hole closed. Then I might cut out a small access to get into the "fishbox" from the stern side (cockpit) so I could use it for dry storage.

Anchor storage access to remain as is.

Can you guys do this (the welding parts -- I can cut the hatch). Roughly what would the cost be?

[Redhawk]

Oh wise and knowlegable Boat Doc, you have helped me several times before and I humbly ask your forgiveness for not asking before I "fixed" my boat. I have an 18' inboard Alumaweld that I purchased from Stevens 20 years ago. It has a 302 Ford engine for power. My starter fried itself on N Fork a few weeks past and I had to have a lift back up to my rig. The solenoid got hot during this event so I decided to replace it along with the starter. Went to parts store and got marine starter (spendy!) and new solenoid. The question: when I replaced the solenoid there were no + - markings on either one so I lined up old with new, noted wire attachment and installed new one. When the ignition switch was turned on starter worked BUT the starter ran continuously, even with ignition switch off! I had to disconnect battery to stop it. Parts store said "defective" solenoid so I put old one on and it worked fine. Got another new solenoid, installed it and tried ignition again and starter ran continuously again. Put old one on and left it on as starter worked fine. ?: If the two main poles on solenoid are reversed (again no markings) would this cause continuous starter problem? or what am I dealing with here?

By the way, 4 years ago when I had starter rebuilt, I changed out the ignition switch and it seems to work fine with old solenoid.

Thanks again for taking the time to help

[Boat Doc']

You have the wrong solenoid for the application. Get a ford solenoid for point ignition and it should work. The 2 large posts have nothing to do with the problem

[Redhawk]

I switched to electronic ignition a few years back would this make a difference? Do you have a part number for the Ford solenoid? Thanks for the help. RH

[HuntNFishAddict]

Boat Doc,
I have a question? I was hunting in E OR this last weekend and it was very cold. Went to get the boat going Sunday morning and the throttle lever won't even budge. Have you ever seen the throttle mechanism freeze? The boat is a 20ft Alumaweld SuperV LT w/ a center console.

Any suggestions?

Thanks a million!!

[Boat Doc']

Redhawk, napa marine #18-5836

[Scott Riggen]

Dear Boat Doc,

I had my new to me 1997 Sylvan Yukon Pro Select in the Milwaukee shop about 6 weeks ago. I was having issues with the hand controls (specifically reverse) and then the power tilt stopped working. You fine folks fixed up the reverse issue and also repaired a pinched wire that was affecting the power tilt.

I'm now having some cold start issues with it. From talking to the previous owner it seems something is odd since he said it used to fire right up. (even when cold) I compression checked it when I bought it and all the cylinder were withing 2 Lbs of each other at around 120.

I always make sure the ball is pumped up. I turn the key one notch to the right and push in 5-10 seconds to choke it. I can get it started but it takes several tries. The first few times it does start it just dies out. I tried using the "Fast Idle" lever but it does not seem to be doing anything at all. (Even when warm the fast idle lever does not seem to be doing anything)

What should I be looking at first or do you think I should drag it back in.

The motor is a 1997 40 Hp. Merc 4 Cylinder Oil Injected 2 stroke.

Thanks,

Scott

[Redhawk]

You 'da man, Boat Doc -- thanks a lot.

RH

[Boat Doc']

Scott, The key is the fast idle operation, you need to raise the lever higher than what you are to get the rpm up so it will stay running. Put more force on it to get it to move

[Beefcake]

Dear Boat Doc'-

I am having trouble with my '95 Merc 150 XRI (fuel injected). It presented itself as an over-abundance of fuel / oil when cold, causing massive smoke and vapor-locking (so much gas in the crankcase that the starter barely turns it over, then a massive dock-clearing cloud of smoke once it fires). It "washes" the lower plugs (5&6) with gas. Also, it will only start with the throttle open a little (which is uncommon for the fuel injected motors). Once it starts and gets revved-up, it will run fine for hours. On my last outing, I think I narrowed the search for the problem, but let me give you the background first...

The problem was mildly evident at times since I bought the boat about 3 years ago. However, it got really bad last spring, and I have had the boat in and out of the shop several times since then chasing it. I first took it to my regular shop, and he did all of the things that were obvious possibilities. He rebuilt and tested the high-pressure fuel pump. He tested the CPU (or whatever the correct term is for the "brain" module that controls the EFI), and it didn't show any trouble codes. He also took the powerhead apart looking for any mechanical issues and replaced the reed valves while it was apart. He has supposedly also checked the injectors, the oiling system, and everything else that we could collectively think of, but the problem persisted. So, as a last ditch effort, we sent the EFI CPU thing to CDI, who made a couple of adjustments to the programming but verified that it was working fine (this step alone was like $700-800), but this didn't fix it.

I took the boat to the coast over the summer and had the usual problems when it was cold, then after running on plane for about five minutes, it died completely. My usual shop said he didn't have any more ideas, so he recommended that I take it to Stevens' for a fresh opinion. I gave all of the history information to the service manager when I called to schedule it, then I gave all the information again to the salesman who checked the boat in since the service manager was not there. Well, I'm pretty sure this info didn't all get to the mechanic; they called me back and told me that it ran fine but they replaced the #6 coil which might have been weak. I took it out to test it, and it was the same as before (hard to start, massive smoke, etc.), plus it only ran for about 10 minutes before it died completely again. I took it back, and they found a loose wire to the fuel pump, which was apparently the problem that caused it to die (I should note, they didn't charge anything for this second visit, which is cool since it was the prior shop that left it loose). Anyway, I am not writing this to complain about either shop; this is a tough problem to diagnose, and I will continue to do business with both shops; I just need to solve this problem. The good news is that I think I have a new clue that should lead us closer to the solution...

I took the boat out last weekend for the first time in several months. Since it had sat so long, there was no vapor in the crankcase, so it cranked over really well when starting. I ran the boat for about a half hour to get to my fishing spot, and it ran perfectly. Then I threw anchor and started fishing. When I went to start it back up an hour or two later, all of the old problems were back (hard to crank, had to add throttle, and smoked badly when it first started). So, my new revelation is that the problem is from gas leaking into the cylinders when I shut it off (we had all been approaching it as though the problem was too rich of mixture while trying to start it - sort of like a stuck choke on a carbed motor; or that it was gas leaking into the crankcase from the high-pressure fuel pump). Anyway, my big question is this: Is there a check valve that is supposed to relieve the pressure in the fuel injection system when I turn the motor off, or is it intended to stay pressurized? In other words, I'm pretty sure the original shop said that they had tested the injectors for leakage, but they almost have to be leaking for this problem to occur when I shut it off. Should I be looking at the injectors themselves, or is there a silly little check valve somewhere in the fuel system that could be causing this?

The bottom line is that I can't afford to keep taking it to the shop for mis-diagnosis. I have about $2,000 into trying to find this problem already. I know it is an older motor, but it has great compression and runs great once warm. I just need to get past whatever this stupid issue is that has me scared that it won't start when I need it to. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Scott Johnson

[Boat Doc']

Scott, the only things that will allow fuel in the cylinders is mechanical fuel pump which can be tested by removing it from the block by the two mounting screws and squeezing the bulb and see if fuel comes out of the pulse hole on the back side. If it does replace the diaphragm kit. Also the vapor canister can overflow if the float or needle is leaking, you can remove the vent hose on the top and squeeze the bulb and see if fuel comes out. If it does the canister needs to be removed and disassembled to find the reason for the leakage- debris in needle, sunk float or?. Next would be to hook up pressure gauge to it and check the pressure with the key on then shut it off and see if it drops off rapidly.If it does you have a sticky injecter. It will be normal for it to slowly bleed off. All these tests are done with the engine not running. Finally since the engine runs good at all speeds I think you are looking at something else. If this is a prop drive run it on a hose for a while and let it sit like you normally would. Remove the plugs and crank it over with the LANYARD SWITCH OFF and see if you get a lot of fuel, spray will be normal but solid liquid is not. If you do look at one of the previous tests to see what the problem is. If it's ok do the same thing in the water. I think you will see that you have a water fuel mix coming from the bottom cylinders. If so the lower crank seals or seal holder are leaking. Good luck and let me know

[CKthumper]

Hi Doc-
One more question about my steering cable-- I accessed the end, cleaned and greased it, and still stiff. Needs replaced, right?

Does the cable detach from the steering box or does the whole thing detach from the wheel?

Any tricks to removing it?

thanks
ck

[Beefcake]

Thanks for the ideas. My other mechanic checked the vapor tank (we had a problem with debris holding the float valve open a couple of years ago, and he took this apart and inspected it again this time around). This is also evident when I pump up the bulb - if the vapor canister overflow was open, the bulb would get soft as the fuel dumped into the block. He also replaced the diaphragm in the fuel pump recently, so that shouldn't be it. I also verified today that he pressure tested the system and checked the injectors, and it wasn't leaking down. Also, the lower plugs are wet with fuel, but there is no evidence of water on them. In other words, your diagnosis steps are perfectly logical, but I think we've done them all. Am I missing anything else? I have google searched all of the ideas I could find on boat forums ("Mercury EFI excessive smoke" brought up a bunch of articles from bassboat forums), and I have even tried following up on the really arcane solutions (for instance, an article I found had to do with improper connection of one of the wiring harness wires up near the helm, which turned out to be related to Sportjet installations rather than Outboards but that was unfortunately not mentioned in the article). Maybe we missed something in the steps you outlined, but I don't think so. I'm running out of hair to pull out.

[Boat Doc']

Thumper, cable needs replaced. Depending on style it either has a retainer nut or pin at the helm that you loosen or remove to get the cable out

[Boat Doc']

Scott, assuming the engine is getting up to temp and the sensors are functioning correctly, and all the plugins and grounds are tight and clean and the link and synch is correct and the bleed system is functioning and not plugged up. You might try opening the throttle shutters to lean it out and readjust the idle speed and TPI to specs.

[CKthumper]

Doc-

Soon you will be done with me.

I have a pin at the helm, but before I crawl under there and start tearing things apart, is there any knack to getting the cable off or should it just slip apart with little or no effort?

Is there a step by step procedure I need to follow?

Thanks
ck

[Boat Doc']

ckthumper, there is several different helms, if you could post a pic I could tell you how to take it apart or call me and describe it.

[JuneHog]

Doc,

all top notch good info. read the thread clear through from the beginning. can see you've been around the business.

question

do I need zincs on my 9"x18" electric Lenco trim tabs on a glass boat with OB motors have them, only metal on outside of hull beside trim tabs.

run in salt 50% but trailer boat with wash down immediately after every use. never moored in salt except for 1 or 2 weeks a year.

have ran inboard before with steel rudder and lots of metal fittings. lots of problems in salt even with a ton of large zincs with good bonding on everything

thanks
cliff

[salmonslayer1966]

hey doc,
was wondering what it costs to adjusy valves on a 2005 90hp4stroke. and also a 2005 9.9 and when do they need it?thanks

[Matt J]

Boat Doc,

any idea how to get hot water wash from a 2008 Suzuki 9.9? Thermostat cover does not look like there is any room to tap directly into it. If I put a T connector in the water hose coming out of the t-stat, what would the approx. temperature difference be? Thanks for all the great info.

Matt

[CKthumper]

Hi Doc-

Upon further examination, my helm is stamped "Disassembly of this unit may cause steering failure. Replace entire assembly".
So, it looks like I have to pull the wheel, then unbolt the helm and back it out from the front. The wheel looks to be held in by a retaining washer at the bottom of the shaft--which looks like a golf tee. Next step?
If it's time for a phone call, pm me a number and a good time to interrupt your day.

Thanks
ck

[Boat Doc']

junehog, yes I would put a zinc on each tab

[Boat Doc']

wa9857, I am not familiar with Suzuki. However if the hose off the t housing is thermostat temp then you could tee into it. If not it it's equipted with a zinc in the powerhead you may be able to remove it and drill and tap the retainer. If not you may have to carefully drill into te block

[Boat Doc']

ckthumper, the center comes out of the wheel and there is a nut that holds it on. You don't need to remove the pin.

[RKjk]

Boat doc i have a 2000 t9.9 yamaha that starts fine but when i give it
a little gas off idle to troll it dies.But if i get passed the flat spot it run fine
Thanks for our help

[Boat Doc']

rkjk, Access the idle mixture screw and richen it up. If you still have issues after that the carb will need to be disassembled and cleaned

[s20055]

Boat Doc, the last few days my boat has been leaking fuel out of the fuel tank vent (anti siphon vent?). I have an almost full tank of fuel and the boat is just being stored in my driveway. The front end of the boat is sitting lower than the rear...fuel tank is mounted in the rear. I have a NR Trapper with the 175HP sportjet. When I open the gas cap, quite a bit of pressure is released. Any ideas?

[jester1972]

Dear Boat Doc-
I have a '19 Thunderjet Luxor, inboard, w/american turbine pump, Has been hard to steer lately, last time out it steered to the right but when steering left, the nozzel would stop at center, Won't turn left!

sounds like I need to replace the steering cable, is this a do it yourselfer fix, or do I need to let the pros do it?
any idea on price?
the numbers on the jacket are, (I think) ssc13419 teleflex usa23091

thank you

[jester1972]

boat doc-
sorry I hadn't read all 2400+ posts before submitting. after posing I saw #2446 and could have wrote that myself. If I disconect at the pump nozzle can I pull the cable out and clean/regrease or do I neet to pull the whole thing out of the boat?

thanks:thisbig:

[Boat Doc']

s20055, you could lower the bow and in the future don't fill the tank as full. Todays fuels are more prone to expansion than in the past. Also the vent for the tank is probably located at the rear

[Boat Doc']

jester1972, disconnecting it at the nozzle will allow you to clean and grease it as needed. If the cable doesn't travel fully it will need to be replaced. If it does travel fully you need to see what is preventing the nozzle from full travel

[jester1972]

see attatched pic.
I removed ball joint from nozzle, didnt have a grease gun, but nozzle travels freely. took the bolt out that connects the cable to the steering arm, any advice on sepparating the two? I assume that the tube going through the transom doesn't need removal.

[Boat Doc']

jester, the cable attaches to the tube inside the boat. you would need to remove the bolt on the inside, undo the nut on the inside and pull the bable into the boat to remove or replace it

[ghull]

Boat Doc
I have a 2001, Merc 9.9 that on occasion will flood when the fuel supply is connected to the motor. Does it sound like I need a carb kit to remedy.
Thanks, Greg

[Boat Doc']

greg, if it runs good no, if it runs bad, smokes, or displays other signs of flooding yes

[Redneck]

boat doc,
i have a 2005 mercury 8hp four stroke motor with manual start. the last time i took it out i ran it for a few minutes then it would miss on one cylinder intermittently at idle, half and full throttle. i isolated it to one of the cylinders by disconnected one of the spark plug cables with no change in the missing. it seems to me like an ignition problem. all of the wiring looks fine. any help is appreciated.
thanks,
redneck

[GoneFission]

How does Steven's Alumaweld 17' Talon perform with a 60 HP 4-stroke (or 2-stroke) pump?

[adobe wall]

I'm going to moor my boat for at least a few days at a time (maybe a few weeks). Any reason to be concerned about the Mercury 90/65 jet? Do I need to tilt it up and out of the water or just make sure I grease the bearing after each use?

tia, aw

[justfish]

Doc, cruising along ( about 25-30 mph) in my buddies stryker and all of a sudden the motor dies.A few moments later he fires it up and we're off. 90 hp optimax with approx.10 hrs. Oh,and also when it died an alarm went off. Any thoughts? thanks Bill.

[Boat Doc']

sorry guys, been out of town

redneck, try switching the coils, if the lack of spark follows the coil then change it. If not it would be the cdi unit

[Boat Doc']

gone fissin, the Talon will function, however a larger baot and motor would be ideal

[Boat Doc']

adobe wall, in fresh water it won't matter, in salt water i would leave it down unless you have other zincs on the hull then leave it up

[Boat Doc']

just fish, hard to say what it is without looking at it, would guess a coil shutting down or water in the fuel or?

[Big EEE]

Boat Doc, I have a 90hp Optimax and last weekend while toolin up the willy at 3 quarter throtle, all of a sudden I lost power and an alarm sounded. I backed off tried her again and it happened again. It worked fine at low throtle. I thought it was going to be a slow ride back to the dock. I tried her again and she worked fine, I went out again the next day and had no problems what so ever, what was up? Should I be worried?
Any advise would be great. Thanks for your help. Big EEE.

[Boat Doc']

big eee, if this is a jet tiller it may not have been all the way in gear, other possibilities would be oil reservoir low, water in engine filter overheat or an ignition problem, if it happens again you should get it looked at. If the alarm sounds it should set a fault in the computer

[Big EEE]

big eee, if this is a jet tiller it may not have been all the way in gear, other possibilities would be oil reservoir low, water in engine filter overheat or an ignition problem, if it happens again you should get it looked at. If the alarm sounds it should set a fault in the computer

Thanks Boat Doc, before I took it out the next day (when it worked fine) I did top off the oil. Hope its ok, if not you'll probably be seeing me.

[fillet&release]

Boat Doc
I recently purchased a 16' boat with a 84 70hp yamaha.I test ran it on a hose and it ran great so off to the lake. When I put it in the water it started right up and idled great. When we got away from the dock it wouldnt rev. over 2000 rpm and I had to play with the choke to get it to rev that high. All 3 carbs were rebuilt before I got it but I took them apart and made sure everything was good and clean. I noticed a couple things that concern me, one of the carbs I was not able to get the main jet out of,and one of the carbs has a cylinder that slides into the carb body before the main jet and one does not,not sure about the one I cant get the jet out of so I guess im wondering if all three carbs are suppose to have all the same parts in them? If so can these missing parts be purchased and were? Also there was no base gasket on the carbs. Should there be or do I have a massive vac. leak causing all my problems? Thanks for your help.
Zach

[Boat Doc']

Fillet, I don't know that much about the Yami, however it should have a gasket or o-ring on the base, for further info try you trusted yami dealer

[dlm]

Greetings Doc.

I am thinking about installing a small kicker myself (bolt on). The boat is a 16" Alumaweld Talon and the motor will be a 6hp with extra long shaft. I will be mounting this on top of the transom on the port side.

Is there anything special I should be careful off? The top of the transom feels very strong, what is inside there that I will be drilling through, in other words is it hollow?

I also plan on plumbing it to the main fuel tank.

I will take any advice available to prevent me from messing the whole thing up.

[Boat Doc']

dlm, only concern I can see is making sure you can access the bolts from the inside

[yelloweye]

Doc,

I searched all 42 pages and note numerous times issues with stiff or frozen steering tubes/cables. You always recommend pulling the cable from the tube and lubing. Teleflex says to use only lithium based grease. However, when I went to my dealer to get some, he said it would get hard too quickly and I should just use regular outboard grease. With the cold weather we have been having this winter, my steering is quite stiff in the morning. Does the kind of grease really make a difference or not? Does one perform better in cold temperatures? Does one perform better in salt water?

Thanks!

[Boat Doc']

yelloweye, I would stick with the manufactures recommendation. The only servicable part of the cable is the aft end which is why I recommend removal and cleaning. If the cable is still stiff when removed from the engine then it needs replaced

[whirlwind]

I have been told that never seize mixxed with a small amount of corrosion-x coated over all the stainlees areas will keep things moving for a very long time.
I have tried it on limited bases with great results.

[Bigkat]

Boat Doc,

I heard a rumor that Yamaha 90/65 and 115/80 motors have a recall on aluminum impellars and that the replacement stainless impellar is available for $125.00

True or False????

[Williedrifter]

I have a 40MSHX Yamaha.

I have the carbs out and am trying to clean and service. I am unable to remove the main jet needle from the middle carb. It will move a bit but will not drop out! Any ides?

[Boat Doc']

bigcat, they are replacing aluminum impellers with stainless in cases where the blade has sheared off and there is no evidence of other damage. It requires preauthorization from the factory. The cost is 165.00 which is the difference between stainless and aluminum

[Bullwoods]

Hi Doc, I have a 135 Mrec I/O 85 Hrs. I had it out today and after warming up at the dock we took off, went a couple miles and it started cutting out then died. It started right up then died. I thought fuel but the little motor runs good (plumed to the main tank). Got it home and changed the water/fuel separator. Checked the filter in the fuel pump. It started right up ran good for about 5 min then died out, starts up then dies out right away. Any ideas, I got this week off to fish, maybe doing chores at home insted. :passout: Thanks

[fishjed]

Boat Doc. Hello I am very interested in the hydraulic tiller power steering for my open sled. I am currently running a 200hp hpdi yamaha. I have seen the power steering from enginesteer on there site. My concern with this system is that I would loose the trim switch that is located on the end of my tiller handle, because it is replaced with the new control handle. I have also seen the new power tiller handles that mercury is putting on some of there motors. I think that it puts the hydraulic contols between the handle and the motor instead of on the end of the handle. I am a machinist by trade and can pretty much build anything I need. Is it possible to install one of the mercury units on my yamaha motor? Or am I better off to go with the original unit made by enginesteer?

[Boat Doc']

Bullwoods, I would suspect the fuel pump if the fuel is ok.

[12pulls]

Doc, is it cost effective to install an electric start on a '04 Merc 40mhl? It looks like all I have to do is mount a starter and wire it up.

[Boat Doc']

fishjed, it would be easiest to use the enginesteer handle and build a bracket to locate the switch either on the side of the handle or just behind the grip so you can reach it with your little finger

[Boat Doc']

12pulls, the kit from Mercury is about 600.00, which includes a seperate key switch

[stevo]

Boat Doc',
My big motor is a '98 Johnson 115hp FICHT. Fuel injected 2 stroke, separate oil reservoir.
Anyways, question is; is it OK and advisable to run a bottle of fuel injector cleaner through it once a season or so?
Also, run a 4 stk kicker off the same fuel tank.
Thanks

[dinofun]

Boat Doc
Is there a kit or way to convert a 2008 9.9 Bigfoot Mercury so that it can charge a battery? I don't need electric start but it would sure be handy to have a back up battery charger in casr the main engine battery went dead.
Thanks

[rip n lips]

Dear Doc,

I have a older boat with a 115 merc. The Wiring harness for my tilt/trim came unplugged. After a struggle I finally got the rubber boot at the end with the 3 male adapters plugged in and the tilt down now works. Unfortunatley there is 2 wires that branch out before that plug that go to my tilt/trim up switch. They have female adapter ends on them and I was told that they go to the Trim Limit Switch. I have limited visibility and can't find where that limit switch is? Can you explain to me where that limit switch is or possibly have a wiring diagram I can look at? Thank You.
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[justfish]

Hello Doc',
I'm due for my 1st oil change on a KEM 350 MPI.First, what oil viscosity do I want, and any particular types or specs ? Also,do you guys carry the oil filter I need ?
Thanks for your help! Bill

[Boat Doc']

Stevo, yes it would be advisable and won't hurt anything

[Boat Doc']

dinofun, they make a kit- runs about 200 plus install

[Boat Doc']

ripnlips, the limit switch is located in the port trim cylinder housing. You should be able to hook the two wires together and use the trim button to take it up to the trailer position

[Boat Doc']

just fish, good brand of 10-30 is recommended. Anybody that has small block filter will work and yes we have them to

[PATRICK 11-14]

Hey boat Doc..
Posted this on another thred and only got one response. "Thing was having some issues when cold in the winter mornings not being able to throttle/power up even when warmed at the dock 5-10 minures.
Would bog down at full throttle and then rev up a couple times bog and "clear itself out" and run great the rest of the day. Well yesterday after clearing itself out now it surges at the top end from 1/2-3/4 throttle up.
Leaning toward either a high speed jet or float issue? Last time carbs were rebuilt was about 3 year ago.
Any ideas would be great...
Thanks!!!:D "
Its an 87 Johnson 48hp and been running great up till about a month ago with the taking for ever to warm up??? Also it revs great when in nutural and when in gear/under a load is when its acting up.
Leaning to rebuilding carbs again??

[dinofun]

dinofun, they make a kit- runs about 200 plus install
Thanks Doc, I assume Stevens carries them?

[rip n lips]

ripnlips, the limit switch is located in the port trim cylinder housing. You should be able to hook the two wires together and use the trim button to take it up to the trailer position

Both of the wires have female adapters, should I just stick a piece of metal in between the two and give it a shot?

[justfish]

Hello Doc'
12v batteries,what should I be reading on my meter with a good, fully charged batt. and vice versa, when should I put it on the charger?
Thanks for your help! Bill

[Boat Doc']

patrick11-14, I would be looking at fuel pump and float levels