View Full Version : 88 Johnson 15 kicker lower unit removal
Threemuch
10-30-2002, 07:07 AM
I was trying to remove the lower unit on my 88 Johnson 15 kicker to replace the water pump. When I removed the 6 retaining bolts, I expected the lower unit to just drop off, but it is still attached via the shift linkage. Does anyone know what I need to do to get this off?
KB
ReelMcCoy
10-30-2002, 07:26 AM
Not sure if this will help. I have a 1970 6 hp and the only way I found to get the lower unit off was to remove the power head. It sounds bad but really only amounted to about 8 screws and to disconect linkages and fuel line. The other thing I found on mine was there was a seal under the power head on the main drive shaft. This seal was made up of an "O" ring, a cup, a spring, a plastic washer and a metal washer. All needed to be installed after the lower unit was back in place. Then you could install the power head with a new gasket.
I not sure how far away you are but I have found Harvy's marine in Beaverton to be a big help with info. The owner is a little gruff but knows his stuff.
Hopes this helps
Smily
10-30-2002, 09:22 AM
Hi Threemuch,
Before taking on a project like that you could take a ride to your local public Library where they have manuals on them. That's what I did when I bought my mariner and changed the pump out myself. Had step by step instructions.
If I remember right, some models had a plate in the middle of the shaft that you unscrew off and exposes the shift linkage. I'm not sure if your model has this. Good luck with it. I used to work on out-boards in High school and won't say how long ago that was but it was before your motor came out. Email me if you want some help on it.
:smile: Smily :smile:
DON"T TAKE THE POWER HEAD OFF :shocked:
On the side of the lower unit is a cover held on by two screws. Remove the cover and you will see the shifter shaft and two cap screws on a clamp. Loosen the screws and then gently wiggle the lower unit to loosen. If it won't come loose you can smack it with a rubber hammer, but don't hit the cavatation plate as it WILL break :depressed: .
Grease all bolts when you reassemble your motor and then next time you work on it they will come out easier.
[ 10-30-2002, 09:56 AM: Message edited by: Keta ]
Threemuch
10-30-2002, 01:25 PM
No access plate on mine either. But I got it off at lunch, and bought the clymer manual for the motor. If you shift the motor into forward, and drop the long shaft extension, you can get to the shift linkage screws. The Clymer manual doesn't show this, though.
Anyway, bad news is the pump looks fine, but it wasn't pumping. So I may have bigger problems. When I blow in the copper water tube, I can here the air coming out further up the shaft instead of out the water outlet hole. Any ideas how to remove the copper tube for inspection?
KB
Smily
10-30-2002, 01:30 PM
Do you Have or checked your thermostat in the head by the spark plugs?
:smile: Smily :smile:
[ 10-30-2002, 01:30 PM: Message edited by: Smily ]
BUGLEMAN
10-31-2002, 12:51 AM
Hey bud! My suggestion is to spend the $35 for a repair manual and get the pictures and instructions.
Hitting a dead end while removing your lower unit.....frustrating. Having an instruction manual to keep you going and give you peace of mind.......priceless.
[ 10-30-2002, 01:03 PM: Message edited by: BUGLEMAN ]
No access plate on the '85 6hp that I have for parts. :blush: