Hook Sharpening 101...

[Lured In]

Okay, so your giant 50+ pound nookie just came unbuttoned next to the boat. Could it be the hooks? Better not second guess and sharpen them up. graemlins/idea.gif

I am no expert on this and am actually looking for other thoughts/methods on sharpening hooks. I have a reatively inexpensive sharpener that takes enough off to put a 'factory' point back on my hooks. I can never seem to get them really 'sticky' sharp, though. I can get them to catch my fingernail, but not like some hooks can. I usally fish Gami's, but let's not get into that since we are talking about used hooks here.

I usually go from the bend in the hook shank toward the point on at least 3 sides of the hook point. I try to keep the angle as shallow and consistent as possible. Like I said it sharpens them up, but not as much as I would like.

I know with knives, you do the circular thing, but I don't see how that would benefit a hook, being that it is pointed, and not to mention a little difficult to manage.

What do you guys use and what method/approach do you use for sharpening your hooks? graemlins/1zhelp.gif

[crabbait]

Get a good hook file and a Holdzit (or you end up with a rusty file after one day around the salt). File toward the point at a shallow angle on both sides creating a triangle (truncated) point, then take one or two very light strokes on the inside (bottom) edge of the hook. Should now be scary sharp!

Or buy Owner Cutting Point hooks and be careful! Good luck. 5/0 and 6/0 are pretty tough to find for some reason. :whazzup:

[Get Bent]

What separates a "good" hook file from a bad one?

I remember that my dad used to have a hook sharpener that was a battery-operated rotating stone. Those still around?

[crabbait]

The yellow handled jobs they sell everywhere work great until I forget to put them in the Holdzit and they turn red. graemlins/eek13.gif

A small diamond file works well for finish work if you are real finicky or for small hooks.

[Terry H]

Lured--I have sharpened my hooks for years,usually with mixed results.This last springer season I found out why.
The steel on most hooks must be soft,I would sharpen until "sticky sharp" but sometimes a missed hit would slightly bend the point.Bummer,now you could ride to h*** and back and not get hooked.
I found the solution on this site.Someone posted about Owners hooks,I bought some of the Owners Cutting Point hooks ,HOLY MOLEY,these are unbelivable.I would get a hit ,have not lost a fish[cross my fingers]and when I would get the fish in the boat,the hook[s] would be all the way through bone.These hooks are THE best.
They are not cheap,in a pack of 23[strange pack]they are 18 bucks,but that still may be the cheapest part of the fishing outfit.You can buy them in smaller pack if you just want to try them,but you will be amazed.I got mine at fishermans.
:grin: :grin: :grin: :cheers: Terry

[TH]

This may not be the most popular anaswer.. but here it goes anyway.... throw them away!

I go through a lot of hooks, but they might be the cheapest piece of tackle I use all day.

When I land a fish I switch leaders, everytime.
I always throw my leaders away after each trip. Its not worth the hassle to me.. I would rather spend time cleaning my boat :grin: ..
Hooks are cheap.. fish the sharest ones you can find. For me its 6/0 black Gammies in the ocean/bay and visions for steelies.

Just my opinion. :smile:

[ampersat]

a hook file can take a lot of meat off in a hurry if you use a heavy hand with it. the key to really sharp hooks is a light touch and a well oiled file. if you don't oil the file, it just doesn't cut as well. dipping it in water will work, but will also cause rust. scent oils work just fine and if you're using enough scent on your rigs you'll already have it on your hands. also, go shallow and towards the point, but not too shallow. if your point is too thin, it will tend to bend instead of penetrate when pressure is applied. remember that 22.5 degree trick you were taught about sharpening your knife? the same applies here.

[Snagly]

First, I drift fish with chemically sharpened hooks. When they dull, I change them. If I have any doubts that they might be dull, I'll change them. Second, all spoon/ spinner hooks are changed to Gami Siwsashes (along with new split rings in the casse of spoons). I DO sharpen Siwashes if they dull. Third, most of the jigs I buy are tied by one-man custom shops who use Mustads and Eagle Claws, so they need sharpening and re-sharpening, too.

In the salt, I fish 80% of the time with VMC trebles on lures and these are constantly being sharpened and/ or replaced. I probably sharpen 1000 hook points year.

My suggestions include:

1. Using a double cut file. The yellow handled (Luhr Jensen) ones are fine. Your local hardware store probably has double cut flat metal files for half the price that work as well.

2. Make a triangular point (both sides and top) taking approx 5 strokes INTO the file on each of the three sides. That's right: get the hook at the right angle (22.5 degrees is probably it -- I don't know) and slide the point into the stationary file. This takes more metal off per stroke (esp. if you apply pressure) than dragging the point away, so you can sharpen your hooks faster. (Of course, get the wrong angle and they dull faster too!)

3. Test the sharpness by *****ing the skin off your fingertips, NOT your nail. You just sharpened the hook. No need to dull it on your nail. If it grabs your fingertip, it's sharp.

4. Once the hooks have been resharpened to the stage where the points are taking on a "chisel" appearance, it's time to change them.

5. Spraying WD-40 or lightly oiling your hook file (or using a Holdz-it sheath) prolongs the file life.

OK, now for the REALLY controversial suggestion. FISH BARBLESS hooks. Really. 100% of my fresh and saltwater hooks are barbless. It's safer, always legal and, more importantly (from your perspective), insures that you achieve maximum point penetration on the hookset. Yep, you'll lose some fish you would have otherwise caught (e.g. jumpers esp.) but you'll catch as many or more than if you fished with barbed hooks. Just keep the line tight!

* * * * *

I sharpen or change hooks after EVERY fish. (Almost all of the time I cut and re-tie as well, unless the fish was lip-hooked and a tiddler.) I know I'm going to lose some fish anyway, but I don't want to have the self-recriminations that come from "pilot error".

[timinthegorge]

thanks Snaggly......

Very informative...... 'preciate it. Thanks again, Tim

[TH]

snagly always has outstanding insights.. and well researched information... must be the lack of steelhead fishing in Singapore.. :grin:

[Up-4-Air]

I'm surprised. After reading 9 posts on this subject no one talked about the sharpner that uses two small round files mounted in the red plastic card. It's called Deluxe Hook Sharpner and it's made by Check Point. These are the only sharpners I use. After getting used to it I get sticky points with only a couple passes. Am I missing something? :whazzup:

[crabbait]

Terry H. - I agree with you on Owner Cutting Points. I use them exclusively for bobber fishing but have resisted for mooching rigs because I go through so many due to line abrasion when fish are caught.

I just picked up a bunch of 6/0 Owners and will give them a try this weekend at the bridge. I can always retrieve them and re-tie.

[Herring Impaired]

I use a "Wet Wheel" grinder that I also use for my woodworking tools. Not only does it get the hooks "sticky sharp", but I can actually shape the tip of the hook if I think it is too thick to penetrate sufficiently. Kind of give it that "Hollow Ground" look....

[First Bite]

I used to be a fanatic about sharpening all my hooks. If I couldn't get a needle sharp edge on the hook, I'd toss it and tie on another one.

In the past couple years I switched to using only Owner hooks for everything including jigs. I haven't used a hook sharpener since.

Mark

[ReelMcCoy]

The best method I have found to sharpen hooks is a pair of chain saw files ( or any round file) taped side by side. You then drag the hook with point facing away from you towards the handle end of the file. With the two files side by side it forms a V shape that will create the finest point you have ever seen. It also has the advantage of sharpening both sides at the same time. I have been using this method for years in tide water and still have not had to replace the files. Even if I did they are cheap. It only takes a couple of passes to get the job done. I have used different factory made hook files (including the yellow handeled ones) stones and the diamond files and none will get the hook as sharp the round files.

It only cost a couple of dollars to try it so you don't have much to loose.

[Get Bit]

Get Bent,

The battery operated hooksharpener you are thinking of was made by Charlie White of British Columbia. Have worked with Charlie some over the past few years on the fishng simulator business and have access to a few of those sharpeners. Don't have many left, but if you or anybody else wants one let me know.
They work well.

Get Bit