Jig Floats

[Cohodependent]

Ok all of you Jig fisherman. I know that we are going to have a clinic next weekend, but I have a question about the floats. I want to try a few different things this weekend so by next week I will know where I am having trouble and can ask specific questions. I have and use the round cork floats. My question is about the set up for sliding floats. I have seen the string thing. Are you able to adjust the string stopper once it is on? Will it move throught the guides easily durring casting? I know I am sounding like an idiot, but I am having a hard time picturing the process. I did a search and have read a lot of the information that is available. I use a bait caster so I think that the sliding method would really help. I suppose that I should just go out and buy some and see if I can figure it out.

Thanks.

[ampersat]

i use something like a barrel knot tied out of leader material. the one thing i have to watch out for is heat stressing the mainline when i tighten the knot down. yes, it will slide up and down the line for adjustments. however i find that if i'm adjusting it a lot, it will loosen up and i'll have to tie a new one on. it does cast well if you take the time to clip down the tag ends pretty close to the knot. i too use a baitcaster and having the float down with the jig when i cast means fewer backlashes and longer casts. frankly, i can't see why everyone says to go with a spinning reel for jig fishing. the baitcaster allows me to free spool the float down river for longer drifts and i think it controls the line better than a spinning reel. just my .02

[Thumper]

I vote with Ampersat. I too use a baitcaster and love it for summers or winters. I use 20 pound dacron as a bobber stop knot on top, and it slides just fine. The dacron can be obtained from any fly shop in a variety of colors so it is easy to see. Down from the bobber stop knot I put a small stop bead, then a West Coast bobber big enough to float everything, then another bead, then (and this is important) another stopper knot, then a snap swivel, then 24-36 inches of leader, then the jig. To the snap on the snap swivel I hang a suitable length of hollow-core lead, or a slinky, or increasingly a "shrinkie" (which is the best of all in my opinion for a weight). I use the same exact set-up year around, varying only the leader strength and jig size.

The purpose of the lower bobber stop knot is to keep your bobber from sliding off and merrily floating away when you break your line at the snap swivel. However, by using 20 pound Power Pro as your main line you will rarely, if ever, break off above the snap swivel.

One great thing about attending Mark's jig clinic is that he will show you lots of great ideas. He is the guru of jigs/floats in my opinion.

[Thumper]

One other suggestion. Because of the bobber stop knot flying through the tip-top time after time at high speed as you cast, sooner or later you will lose the tip-top ceramic insert, even from a fairly expensive rod. I use to lose about 2 a year. When that happens I go to Fisherman's Marine and have them glue a super-quality Fugi tip-top in place of the factory tip-top. Problem solved. Costs about $5 and you are then set.

[Cohodependent]

Thanks you gentlemen. I am going to do some experimenting tomorrow. I am going to be on the North Santiam. I have heard that things have been slow, but it will give me a chance to try it all out and enjoy the day. I really do appreciate all of the help!

Andrew

[Cohodependent]

Thumper, why do you put an additional stop knot below the float? Would a bead placed above the knot oon the swivel do the same thing? If the upper knot is adjustable would you not use it for depth control?

Andrew

[Tanner]

In my opinion you are wasting your time and money by using a sliding setup. especially for summer steelhead. I have caught hundreds of fish on bobber and jigs and I used to use the sliding setup all the time. For the last two years I went with the bobber and jig both on the mainline and now I spend a lot more time hooking fish and a lot less time rigging up.
As far as reels are concerned, take a look at what the most succesful and well known B & J fisherman use. I will guarantee you that about 99% of the time you will see them with spinning gear.
Before I started B & J fishing you would not have caught me dead steelhead fishing with a spinning outfit. Nowadays, I don't leave home without one.
My ability to get a "drag free" drift is much greater with this setup and I can cast much lighter stuff than I can with a casting rod.
I have also learned a one handed method of contol feeding line to extend the end of my drift without
any un-natural drag on my jig (try that with a levelwind).
As far as bobbers Thill Premium Steelhead Floats. Nuff Said.

[ 05-10-2002, 03:38 PM: Message edited by: Tanner ]

[Thumper]

"Thumper, why do you put an additional stop knot below the float? Would a bead placed above the knot oon the swivel do the same thing? If the upper knot is adjustable would you not use it for depth control?"

The upper stop knot adjusts the depth of the jig. Takes about 2 seconds to adjust it. The lower stop knot is to save the bobber when you break off at the swivel. Otherwise the bobber will come off and float away. Bummer.

[Cohodependent]

Ahhhh, thanks.

[crabbait]

AAAARRRRGGGGHHHH!!!!! Just when I decided to buy a spinning outfit for jig fishing some guy comes along and suggests a casting outfit. I like casting but I know I will want to cast very light gear for summer fish. A lot of the time no weight except the jig and bobber will be the rule.

I am thinking of buying an outfit before the clinic but another part of me says to wait until after the clininc when I have a better idea of what I will really need.

I'm conflicted! :whazzup:

You can but the bobber knots pre-tied. They slide right on the line off the small piece of tubing they come on. Cheap and easy, saves time tying knots. I have used them for years bobber fishing fall 'nooks. They last for days on 50lb tuf.

Good call on a bottom knot if you are using a sliding rig. Before I started using tuf main line I had to pull anchor to chase down my bobber on many occasions. Now the 40lb maxima always seems to break before the 50lb tuf.

[DanS]

Yeah............what Tanner said. :grin:

I agree with Tanner 100%. One knot on the mainline to the jig, fixed float, spinning reel.

The Thill Turbomaster is my preferred float.

[Cohodependent]

Crabbait I know how you feel. I just spoke with the guy who wraps and repairs my rods asking how much a 10' med/light casting rod would be. He says he will get back with a price. I am sure I don't want to hear it though. I have been looking at spinning rods as well, but there is some thing in me that says stay with the casting stuff. RRAAGGHH!! Too many choices. I can't wait for the clinic...

[birdhunter]

Crabbait, go with a spinning outfit. I was using my steehead float rod on the Snake for crappie this past weekend. All I had on there was a little 1/16 oz crappie jig and a tiny wooden float. With my 30 lb power pro I was still able to cast that 25 yards.

[Jennie@ifish]

Spinning.
Amen.

[Thumper]

And this is what makes jig fishing so much fun! Only one more piece of advice --- listen to the guru (Mark), little Grasshopper.

[ampersat]

as for the bottom stopper, definitely tie it on. it may help you and it may not. it's good insurance for those pricey thill floats. i thought of it one day, tied it on only to see my bobber float away anyway. somehow i managed to lose the bottom stopper.

now i make my own floats. a standard wine bottle cork is excellent for 1/4oz jigs. find some round coffee stirrers and pick a drill bit that is the same size. now comes the hard part: drill the hole straight through. if they've been corkscrewed already you'll find the bit tends to walk off to one side on the way through. the easiest way to deal with this is to drill a little then let the cork spin in your hand. if it's wobbling, you'll be able to see how to adjust your hold to get straight through it. once you get the hole through, work the bit back and forth a little to clear out the shavings. next, run your stirrer through the middle (practice will help you know when you've drilled out enough stuff to let you get the stirrer through but not too much stuff that it won't stay in). leave a little excess length on the stirrer when you cut it off. if you cut it too short, your line will get stuck in the cork where the stirrer ends. now, if i break off, i could give a hoot that i'm losing a float. all it cost me was a cork i would've otherwise thrown away, a piece of coffee stirrer i didn't pay for and about half a minute of my time. a little bit cheaper than those thills, ain't it?

i tie in this order: beat, float, jig. above the bead tie in your stopper. if you're fishing lighter jigs, you can add some split shot to the line above the jig or you could try cutting down your float.

i'm definitely interested in going to the clinic. however, my buddy just bought a 17' sylvan and we might be on the willamette somewhere working on our back bouncing technique.

[ 05-10-2002, 05:52 PM: Message edited by: ampersat ]

[Boedy]

Clinic? What clinic? Man I sure would like to learn about jig fishing could someone fill me in on the details please

[birdhunter]

Jig clinic (http://www.ifish.net/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=012043)

[First Bite]

If anyone is thinking about purchasing a rod and reel for jigs, come attend my clinic and I'll let you cast some of my poles. I fish with both a fixed spinning rod & reel and also a sliding casting set-up. Both have their advantages and disadvantages. When it comes to floats, it's a personal preference. I'll bring several and let you try them on your rod and then see which one you like. I always tell people there is no wrong way to fish jigs, just different ways.

The clinic is going to be at Oxbow Park on the Sandy River on May 18th at Group Area "D" It will start around 8:00 AM. Bring your rod and reel and any jigs you might have. See you there.

Mark

[Snagly]

I know it's a lot of dough, but you can have your (baitcaster) and (throw light rigs) too if you stump up for a Chronarch Super Free (wiffle spool). That will cast just about anything in the 1/8 oz size on up using 8lb main line.

Marry it to a 10.5' float rod and you're in tall clover! :cheers: