View Full Version : Painting Alumaweld Sled
NETONE
12-17-2001, 06:13 AM
Ok test for all of you in the know here...I have the desire to repaint in inside of my sled with Zolatone...I have had lots of very mixed ways to do this...from sand blasting the inside to just painting over the current surface...My personality is some what "**** " as to fit & finish, thus I want to remove all motors, wiring, floor boards lights..just down to a bare shell..sand blast and paint...thus here is the Question....has anyone removed all the motors & guts to their sled...if so how did you do it at home...what equip did ya have to hoist off a 200Hp...then once off did you primer then paint Zolatone...Also how does Zolatone spray...Sounds like a lot of work..but I love this boat
Seefood Man
12-17-2001, 08:01 AM
Hi Netone; To remove your engine requires an engine hoist, a engine stand, and in the top of the engine there is a screw in hoist ring, that can be found at the dealer. Pulling the engine with straps or chains can damage the engine or YOU! As far as the Zolotone, I would strip down the boats hardware myself, then bring the hull to a paint shop that has a GOOD/HEATED spray booth. This will control the cure time of the Zolotone. Also, I believe that Zolotone requires a special paint gun to spray, or at least it did. I would have the shop do the prep work too, that way if there was peeling or other problems down the road the shop would have to fix it.
I'm looking foward to getting moved out to Woodland, as I have the engine hoist, stand, ect. to help do this. And I really enjoy helping folks work on their boats. If your not in any big hurry, I should be out there within a month or two, and then I'll give you a hand.
White Willie
12-17-2001, 08:34 AM
I did that to my old boat,you do need a special gun to do it. My advice is prep the boat and take it to a professional, by the time I was done I had more money in it than I was quoted at the paint shop. Rodda paint stores can get you the paint and the paint gun can be rented in portland. The inside of the boat looked good but I would never do it again.
unless you want to spend days of preping do not sandblast, the sand leaves a resadue that needs to be cleaned through out that means every little pit, or the paint will not stick
NETONE
12-17-2001, 11:54 AM
Thanks all...It a new open sled did not cost so much..I'd go get one....but...just have to make this one look new....as to the motor stand...can one rent these..or ...what...I asume ya can use a cherry picker to lift it off..last thing I want to damage a great running 200Hp....
Stz ll
12-17-2001, 03:56 PM
Being that it is an open boat, and you are planning to strip it I would have it coated with Rhino Lining. This stuff is great, and will last for life of your boat. It also is very slip resistant.
Phish_on
12-17-2001, 05:13 PM
All the good topics repeat themselves, be sure to search the archives on this one -
dampainter
12-18-2001, 05:58 AM
http://www.zolatoneaim.com/index1.html
netone,
if you have access to a conventional spray outfit you could do the zolatone ....go to the above site. probably pretty expensive stuff. I would strip existing coating or sand to sound material and feather edge all and spray some epoxy primer with a polyurethane topcoat that I'd get from pat moran at drew paint. If you really are set on zolatone I would go to the site get a phone # and talk to a rep about what kind of prep you need etc... keep it posted as to your outcome?
Chris Sessions
12-18-2001, 08:22 AM
Netone
Mark Hanson of Hanson's Auto has the all the supplies and equipment, heated paint booth, lots of experience painting alum. boats and does an excellent job. Mark has painted and re-painted several boats for guides and just finished painting a new 21' for me. His shop number is 503-774-8784. Next project I'm sending him is a 15' Alumaweld sled that I purchased for tidewater. I stripped everything out of this sled and had it sandblasted by double J sandblasting @ 360-694-6986.
Chris
Bob Barthlow
12-18-2001, 09:48 AM
if you do it yourself.prep work is important,you don't need to sandblast ,just make sure you use a cleaner or thinner to remove a oils and grease stains ,like from smelly jelly...and etc.and then just give it a light sanding to rough up the old zolatone.the nice thing about zolatone is it fills in well its self.just add a second coat to wear spots like seat box backs and edges ,and deck lids if not diamond plated.my 8 year old super vee needs it,i'm just not looking forward to stripping it out...have fun...........
NETONE
12-18-2001, 10:43 AM
Salmon Shark.....Thanks...I have attemped in call several place...all have NO clue as to what I am doing....before I call..what do you think as to cost...is a 22' open Alumaweld, I will more than likely remove all wiring, motors etc...
NETONE
12-18-2001, 10:50 AM
WOW...called Hanson (Mark)...going to let him do it....I would end up spend 2 weeks messing around with it...for $750 he will have it done with clear coats in 3 days...SALMON SHARK THANK YOU...I owe for that great lead.....
ssteelheadsteve
12-19-2001, 03:49 PM
Neytone
If Hanson will sandblast and paint that is a good deal.Painting should run about $600.Sandblasting extra.Your clear coat is where you can get screwed.The good (UVA inhibator) stuff is over $100 per gallon.The cheap stuff is about $50.Cheap will not last.
Also note that the above posters have little understanding of what it takes to do a quality job as none that I read mentioned acid washing bare metal( even if it has been painted before) and the mandatory coat of Zinc Chromate.Pete's mention about a heated booth is very important during Winter months.Zolatone is a water base paint and proper drying before application of Clear coat is extremely important.Curious as to how much Steven's Marine wanted to do the job ?
NETONE
12-19-2001, 04:05 PM
Stevens Marine told me about $2000....when I called over a few months back...they do not do it up here either, just down south...Hanson "guess-a-ment" over the phone did not include sandblast, since the I have orginal paint, with bare spots showing now, just scuff & buff...paint/clear coat...I want to do this right, since I have a very straight boat and even though its a flat bottom it serves me very well for the time I do fish. I will not do this until summer of 2002..so I am trying to learn all I can now....
dampainter
12-19-2001, 10:00 PM
ssteelheadsteve
...curious, why acid wash and why zinc chromate? Also is something wrong with an epoxy primer and poly topcoat???
Navigator
12-19-2001, 10:40 PM
I heard NorthRiver's are harder to repaint than Alumweld's ...... :rolleyes:
dampainter, i hear ya, nothing wrong with your idea, did one 12 years ago still looks as good as day one, prep is very important, but did it like you mentioned no problems and paint is still holding, used dp-40 epoxy primer with del glo top coat, use bon ami on scuff marks comes right off like it never happened, dk
[ 12-20-2001: Message edited by: DK ]</p>
NETONE
12-20-2001, 11:28 AM
DK...how did you do your boat....???? I surely don't want to get this wrong....
Grass Hopper
01-07-2002, 03:56 PM
CLEAR COAT CLEAR COAT CLEAR COAT! Save that new paint!