Trailer barkes

[SuperPanga]

What is the best way to bleed the brakes on a trailer ? We installed new backing plates that were loaded with new shoes and wheel cylinders, now we need to know the best way to bleed the brakes. Thanks.

[Herring Problem]

I just did this on my trailer.

Need two people.
First thing is to adjust the brakes. Remove the small rubber filler on the bottom of the backing plate.
Use a brake tool to tighten the brakes so the drum does not rotate.
Now back off the adjuster 10 clicks, do every wheel the same.
Now you can bleed the system.

One lays under trailer and loosens tha drain screw.

The second pushes and pulls the coupler in and out to pump the fluid.

While observing the fluid for air bubbles, when you get a full stream close off that valve screw.

Do the same thing to all of the wheels.

Trailer brakes perform great.

Hubs run real cool and braking is pleasent, no jerking or wheel sliding.

[Hellibut]

I just did this on my trailer.

Need two people.
First thing is to adjust the brakes. Remove the small rubber filler on the bottom of the backing plate.
Use a brake tool to tighten the brakes so the drum does not rotate.
Now back off the adjuster 10 clicks, do every wheel the same.
Now you can bleed the system.

One lays under trailer and loosens tha drain screw.

The second pushes and pulls the coupler in and out to pump the fluid.

While observing the fluid for air bubbles, when you get a full stream close off that valve screw.

Do the same thing to all of the wheels.

Trailer brakes perform great.

Hubs run real cool and braking is pleasent, no jerking or wheel sliding.
Hey HP aren't you missing something here. If you pump the coupler without closing the bleed screw your pushing air out and sucking it back in with each pump.
I rebuilt my brakes this spring including a new master. While considering myself pretty good at bleeding brakes I had a heck of a time even though I bench bled the master. I finally got a vacuum pump (about $25) and used it. I did have to teflon tape the bleed screws to prevent air leakage but it seems to have worked quite well. One set of instructions told me to bleed the slave closest to the master first and then the furthest one. The other was the opposite. Not sure it matters but go back and forth until your sure all the air is gone. Make sure and not let the master go dry while your bleeding or you get to start all over.

[bvs]

If you connect a tube to nipple on the bleed screw and run it into a container of brake fluid above the level of the bleed screw then you can pump to you your heart's content without having to close the bleed screw when you back off of each pump (or pry, if its surge breaks on a tailer). The bubbles rise quickly up the tube and don't get sucked back into the caliper. Make sure you keep the threads of the bleed screw well coated in fluid and don't open it too far or air can get in past the threads.

Don't reuse any of the purged brake fluild and expect to go through a couple pints to properly bleed the system.

Of course, it is always easier and faster to have a helper, but I have bled brakes myself this way.

[Reel Fun Fish'n]

I just replaced the wheel cylinders on my Rogue Trailer and I went to China Tool (Harbor freight) and purchased a "One Man Brake Bleeder Tool" that uses your air compressor to create the vacumn. worked great and only took about 10 minutes to bleed the system.