Curado Kicking My Butt

[Dan360]

I bought one of the 200 series Shimano Curado reels a couple years back in the 7:1 gear ratio. I used for throwing spoon/spinners at steelhead and used it to drift fish some too. No problems what-so-ever. Casts great with 10lb line.

Then, I decided to buy the same reel for my bass rods thinking the higher gear ratio would keep me from getting tired when crankin and would help me suck up slack line before setting the hook when using plastics.

WRONG! This thing is turning me into humble pie. I can barely make it five casts without getting a nasty backlash. I don't have the confidence in it to really get into it when throwing a crankbait.

I just don't understand. The same reel has been great on my steelhead rods throwing 2/5 oz spoons and 3/8 oz spinners. They are even better when throwing an inch and a half of 1/4 inch pencil lead on a drift rig. I can literally go all day without more than one or two bird's nests when steelhead fishing.

Has anyone else had this experience?

[yfz450guy]

i have a curado and have had it since they came years ago. the only advice i can give and it this has served me well over the years is this......
you need to dial it in for each lure you use. that means that if you use a drop shot rig then you need to dial it in for that. if you then switch to weightless soft plastic then you will need to dial it in for that. this means re-adjusting all the settings over and over throughout the day. if you intend to use any bait caster for flipping then you will more than likely have problems because the settings will be so light that backlass will be iminent (sp). remember that this is why the pros have so many poles laying on the deck and more down below. each one is setup for that particular lure ahead of time. i love my curado but for flipping i find it easier to use spinning reels. i can flip a weightless senko as far as most can cast with a bait caster.
also you need to keep your thumb on the drum ever so slightly until the lure hits the water then stop the drum so as to aviod free spooling.
:pray:knocking on the wood i can't remember the last nest i had. :pray:
hope this helps.

[Rage]

Have you tried adjusting the weights in the vbs brake system? I was having trouble with backlashes on one of my newer Shimano reels and noticed all the weights were set to the off position. I turned every other one on, 3 out of six, and the problem went away.

I'm assuming you already know how to use the spool tension knob on the crank side of the reel. I've heard some say the bait/lure should be able to slowly fall when set right and another say you should have to bounce your rod tip to get it to slowly fall. The latter would prevent more backlashes but your casts will be shortened.

Good luck!

[IslandBass]

I am inclined to believe that if it is not the line being used then the reel needs to be dialed to the lure, period.

It might seem a bit perplexing but it isn't. Usually, the culprit of this scenario if it isn't the reel setting for the lure in particular (but it is most of the time), it can be the aerodynamics of the lure. Two lures might weigh exactly the same but one might be more difficult to cast.

For example, a 1/4 oz spoon is going to be a breeze to cast on a bc reel even with wind. However, take a 1/4 oz rapala balsa lure. The latter is simply going to be tougher to cast under the same conditions.

You mention tossing crankbaits. Once again, not all crankbaits are equal in the casting department. Some will definitely cast better than others even if they weigh the same. Get yourself some Rapala DT 6 and 10s and some X-raps. They have excellent castibility.

So don't blame yourself or the reel yet. But if you can't cast a DT 6, it might be angler error. hee hee, j/k.

[Zarn]

This is my main reel for everything from Bay Perch to a light Tuna rig.

The longer the pole the better. I use 8.5 to 9.5'. Always have at least to break pins extended. That is all I find I need from #3 vibrax spinners to 2oz of lead. Also adjust the spool tension knob under the crank. Adjust so your lure drops slowly when you release the bail. Match you line size to your target fish and to get the best casting distance for the lure weight. For Shad, Bay Perch, etc. I use 4-6 lb., 10-25 for steelhead, Salmon and Tuna. I find I still have to sometimes thumb the spool to stop a potential backlash.

Casting in an arc using the weight for the lure instead of "flipping" a lure will help. If you flip you will need to finely adjust the spool tension and work your thumb on the spool. That works for me. I hope that helps you.

[skaha]

-as you are familiar with the reel could be the line.
-I've found similar problem (my casting error) Using 10 ft rod and pencil lead no problem to throw all day without backlash then swith to bass set up and....instant amature.


--I think maybe with shorter rod getting to much of a snap in the throw causing backlash. I guess practice, practice, practice in order.

--might help to get someone with a video camera to film your throw as long as you can trust them to not put it on U-Tube for us all to comment on.
--I've found easly to see what others are doing wrong and not realizing I'm up to the same thing. So video yourself and you may see the problem

[Mr6lbR]

When I started baitcasting I ended up setting the casting drag real tight and I would really have to cast hard to get it out there. Now that I am used to it I can set my casting drag super light and casting is a breeze (effortless). I can't stress enough that it is all in the thumb. Gotta keep just enough tension on the spool with your thumb and stop it just as the bait gets to the water. With enough practice you can cast a long long distance AND get a super soft landing with no splash. All in the thumb!

[skaha]

When I started baitcasting I ended up setting the casting drag real tight and I would really have to cast hard to get it out there. Now that I am used to it I can set my casting drag super light and casting is a breeze (effortless). I can't stress enough that it is all in the thumb. Gotta keep just enough tension on the spool with your thumb and stop it just as the bait gets to the water. With enough practice you can cast a long long distance AND get a super soft landing with no splash. All in the thumb!

--my gut feeling is problem is similar to one I have. Casting fairly heavy weigh on 10 ft rod... it really rips out of there but fairly tight drag so doesn't bird nest.
--shorter stick light lure lighter drag but I just naturally don't want to get my thumb on the reel as quick as I should.

--to much thumb on the big bait caster and you get burned. I've dumped mine in the water a few times when stopping short. Even tried the leather patch in the thumb.

--first time back with the big rod after bass fishing for a while I usually dump the thumb on the big reel to quick and get the burning reminder.

[loveseafood]

lol at least im not the only one to have problems with one i bought one like 4-5 years ago for around 150 took it out around 12 times then gave up on it havnt used it since lol

[yfz450guy]

lol at least im not the only one to have problems with one i bought one like 4-5 years ago for around 150 took it out around 12 times then gave up on it havnt used it since lol
i'll remove it from your garage for you if you want?:meme:

[Lunkerlander]

I will second adjusting the brake weights, I fiddle with mine anytime I make big lure changes. Makes a real big difference on how the real casts and if way outta wack can make casting a big problem even for very experienced anglers.

[Dan360]

I use the reel mostly on a 8'6" Lamiglas 8-12# G1000 series rod. I can cast just about anything with that setup from a #3 Blue Fox or a drift rig, etc.

If I put one on a 7ft medium baitcasting rod (Shimano Compre), all goes to hell. Whenever I pick up a baitcast setup, I check the spoon tension knob to make sure the reel is set to the lure.

What is strange is that I've baitcasters for a long time and have never had this problem. I own several other Shimano baitcasters and they cast like a dream. I figured by stepping up, I'd be getting into a better reel.

I've used P-Line CXX, Berkley XT, Berkley Big Game, Izorline Platinum and Maxima Chameleon. No dice on any of it.

[skaha]

--I think only cure...like a golf swing is to get someone to take a look at what you're doing. Often we cannot detect suttle difference.
--I'm thinking with shoter rod you are giving it an extra kick somewhere in your delivery causing the back lash.

--This often happenes to me as I switch from longer rod no problem to shorter. I just give smoother release with longer rod thus less change for backlash. As usually throwing longer distance and bigger weight with longer rod just naturally smoother.
--I think I tend to try extra kick on the shorter rod for distnace that causes my problem . I know better, just cant help myself.

--might be holding onto the spool to long on release of short rod causing a hitch.
--same type of suttle changes causing hook or slice in golf with late wrist turn or extra kick at impact that is not required.

--Again I think best thing is to have someone watch what you're doing, get someone else to cast the rig.....might be the reel


--fly casters seem to be OK with a lesson but for some reason bait and spin caster believe they can learn on their own.
--try throwing to some short targets in a fan pattern. You may find you get the problem on one casting direction. you can then practice on the problem area or adjust your body position to the target.

--you may find you are throwing down to the target rather than above and letting lure fall lightly into the area. Again with longer rod and heavy weight you tend to lob the lure. Shorter rod you might be throwing it at the target.
-- try not to focus on the target, aim above landing area and drop the lure in. Eventually you will do this without thinking and can focus on the target and naturally cast into it.

--whenever catching is slow I practice casting to targets so when I need to I can change delivery.

--fast ball is great but most like a few other pitches in their pocket.

[micropeterous]

I bought one of the 200 series Shimano Curado reels a couple years back in the 7:1 gear ratio. I used for throwing spoon/spinners at steelhead and used it to drift fish some too. No problems what-so-ever. Casts great with 10lb line.

Then, I decided to buy the same reel for my bass rods thinking the higher gear ratio would keep me from getting tired when crankin and would help me suck up slack line before setting the hook when using plastics.

WRONG! This thing is turning me into humble pie. I can barely make it five casts without getting a nasty backlash. I don't have the confidence in it to really get into it when throwing a crankbait.

I just don't understand. The same reel has been great on my steelhead rods throwing 2/5 oz spoons and 3/8 oz spinners. They are even better when throwing an inch and a half of 1/4 inch pencil lead on a drift rig. I can literally go all day without more than one or two bird's nests when steelhead fishing.

Has anyone else had this experience?





The rod you are using is probably too stiff to cast anything under a 1/2 oz unless you are sidearming it downwind. Try turning the cast control to zero and setting the spool tension to allow a 1/4 oz lure to make a slow drop when you push the release. Trying casting some 1/4 oz spinnerbaits in a no wind condition. If you continue to backlash the rod is going to be the problem so try the reel on a lighter action rod. I throw 1/4 oz cranks on finesse cranking rod using a reel that doesn't have a magnetic cast control and have no problems at all so my guess is that your rod is the problem.

[Dan360]

--I think only cure...like a golf swing is to get someone to take a look at what you're doing. Often we cannot detect suttle difference.
--I'm thinking with shoter rod you are giving it an extra kick somewhere in your delivery causing the back lash.

--This often happenes to me as I switch from longer rod no problem to shorter. I just give smoother release with longer rod thus less change for backlash. As usually throwing longer distance and bigger weight with longer rod just naturally smoother.
--I think I tend to try extra kick on the shorter rod for distnace that causes my problem . I know better, just cant help myself.

--might be holding onto the spool to long on release of short rod causing a hitch.
--same type of suttle changes causing hook or slice in golf with late wrist turn or extra kick at impact that is not required.

--Again I think best thing is to have someone watch what you're doing, get someone else to cast the rig.....might be the reel


--fly casters seem to be OK with a lesson but for some reason bait and spin caster believe they can learn on their own.
--try throwing to some short targets in a fan pattern. You may find you get the problem on one casting direction. you can then practice on the problem area or adjust your body position to the target.

--you may find you are throwing down to the target rather than above and letting lure fall lightly into the area. Again with longer rod and heavy weight you tend to lob the lure. Shorter rod you might be throwing it at the target.
-- try not to focus on the target, aim above landing area and drop the lure in. Eventually you will do this without thinking and can focus on the target and naturally cast into it.

--whenever catching is slow I practice casting to targets so when I need to I can change delivery.

--fast ball is great but most like a few other pitches in their pocket.

I don't have anyone close that can go over my cast, but I do have a video camera! I'll go over this and see what happens.

[Dan360]

The rod you are using is probably too stiff to cast anything under a 1/2 oz unless you are sidearming it downwind. Try turning the cast control to zero and setting the spool tension to allow a 1/4 oz lure to make a slow drop when you push the release. Trying casting some 1/4 oz spinnerbaits in a no wind condition. If you continue to backlash the rod is going to be the problem so try the reel on a lighter action rod. I throw 1/4 oz cranks on finesse cranking rod using a reel that doesn't have a magnetic cast control and have no problems at all so my guess is that your rod is the problem.

You might have something here. My drift rod is much slower in the tip than the model rod I use for bass. I have the most problems casting overhand. I took some other reels out the other day. I can use the Citica on the same rod and grip it and rip it without too many problems.