Diawa Beef stick rebuild

[Gooey]

I was given an old diawa beefstick by a friend. It had seen years of service on his dad's boat so the guides were a mess (bent and broken), the blank was scratched. It was the perfect rod to experiment with for my first heavy action rod.

I have only built light spinning and float rods with relatively simple single layed,mono colored wraps. This rod would be my first multi layer, multi colored wrap...I think it turned out pretty nicely.

Its a base layer of size A Crimson with a coat of low build on it and then the guides are lashed on with black D sized thread and finished with a coat of highbuild epoxy.

Now that the guides are done, I am going to attmept my first tiger (thanks to all the great examples and insparation I got on Ifish)! I guess I'll use the same Crimson over a base of white black or maybe white black silver for a little shine?!? Who knows, like I said, this is a warm up for a 30-50lb minty fresh lami blank I have in the line up!

One thing I notice is that the hot glue I used to set the tips on my lighter rods failed when I was loading the blank doing the guide placements...I guess I should just use epoxy to set the tip?

[StickFish]

Good job on the wraps. As far as the tops - there are a couple tricks to the hot melt. Use a hot melt glue gun and run some 6-8" beads of the glue - like long thin sticks - store in a cigar tube. Cut a small piece off and insert into the tip top tube. Heat till the glue melts and pop it on your blank. Clean up the excess while it is still warm.

[E. Harry]

Gooey,
If it were me I would use 5 min. epoxy on a rod as heavy as the one you mention but on lighter rods the hot melt glue will work just fine. However, you will want to use the hot melt glue that is darker in color because the darker the color the higher the melting temperature. The sticks available from Flex Coat are an amber color and if I remember correctly the melting temperature is around 200F and the lighter cream colored has a melting temperature of around 140F. Under some extreme conditions (trunk of a car in hot weather) a rod may be subjected to temperatures that will cause the cream colored hot melt glue to fail.

[Gooey]

My white NCP thread came in so I am ready to start my tiger...I thought I would do a trial run but dont have any suitable blanks to play with..how hard is a tiger to cut off if you dont like the effect? I assume with 3-4mm of epoxy it must be an SOB to undo if you don't like it?

[Twitchs_Tackle]

Good job on the wraps. As far as the tops - there are a couple tricks to the hot melt. Use a hot melt glue gun and run some 6-8" beads of the glue - like long thin sticks - store in a cigar tube. Cut a small piece off and insert into the tip top tube. Heat till the glue melts and pop it on your blank. Clean up the excess while it is still warm.

Ah monkee's! All this time I've been whittling off little shavings with a razor blade from a stick, then ram-rodding them down until the tip is packed...

long thin strings...:passout: Thats 2 things I've learned today!

[StickFish]

My white NCP thread came in so I am ready to start my tiger...I thought I would do a trial run but dont have any suitable blanks to play with..how hard is a tiger to cut off if you dont like the effect? I assume with 3-4mm of epoxy it must be an SOB to undo if you don't like it?

I've never taken a tiger off yet. I wouldn't try to strip the top wrap cause of the space between the thread and epoxy. Rather I'd go after the thread in the base layer. There is a good tutorial by crabbait on how to remove a wrap in the tips and tricks section.