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Hellibut
04-16-2009, 08:01 PM
Yes I did read the other posts but it just ain't working so here's the story. I just replaced my entire brake system. Bench bled the master and had fuid to the end of the lines prior to connecting them to my slave cylinder. Bought a hand vacuum pump and pumped and pumped and pumped some more. I got fluid through the line connected to the bleeder but NEVER solid fluid. There was always mostly air in the line. Switched to the other slave and the same thing. Went back and forth a couple times but never got solid fluid. Consequently I tried it the old fashioned way by pumping the master then holding pressure on it and cracking the bleeder. Got nothing but fluid on both sides so things were looking good and I tried to push the master. I was unable to push the master all the way in with my hands but if I put my foot on it it goes all the way in. There is resistance but this does not seem right. Two questions... do surge brakes work like this when properly bled? If so I guess I'm good to go. Second question .... do the vacuum pumps always have air? Seems I should be getting nothing but fluid as it's basically an extension of the line.

Herring Impaired
04-16-2009, 11:35 PM
I gave up on the Vacuum pumps, and pressure bleed now.
I think what happens is you can pull air from the loose bleeder screw and/or a loose tube on the bleeder screw.
Best solution I found is to get a set of "Speed Bleeders". Just like a normal bleeder screw, but they have a check ball built in so you don't need a helper. Even still I put a light coat of grease on the bleeder screw to prevent air leaks.

Orca
04-17-2009, 08:02 AM
Vac often times will draw air around the bleeder screw threads. You can put some teflon tape on the threads as a cure.

The master cyl should come up tight. Is your "all the way in" hitting a stop, or is it coming up tight fluid wise?

Hellibut
04-17-2009, 02:59 PM
Vac often times will draw air around the bleeder screw threads. You can put some teflon tape on the threads as a cure.

The master cyl should come up tight. Is your "all the way in" hitting a stop, or is it coming up tight fluid wise?
It's going all the way in to the stop. Apparently there's still some air in there somewhere. I ran nearly a full bottle of fluid through pressure bleeding them with no air and thus the question. I didn't think they would be any different than a car but have never had a problem bleeding brakes before so thought maybe the surge brakes had some sort of bypass or something that would not allow them to come full on.

goatram
04-17-2009, 03:48 PM
The Actuator might be allowing the fluid to bypass around the internal seals cups.

If you have all the air out. close off the bleeder and actuate the actuater if it fully seats, the Actuator is Bad. You could take it out, diassamble it, clean it and reassamble it. If you find rust inside it it might clean up with a hone. get a rebuild kit from a auto parts store that knows something. Not aw Shucks. they can match up the parts and get you on the way if they don't have a kit

DK
04-21-2009, 03:57 PM
If they don't have a kit and match up parts DO NOT let them give you standard o-ring's or u cup material, it MUST be E.P.R,