Applying decals to rod blanks

[SteelieSpin]

I'm building my fourth rod right now. It's an 8-1/2' St. Croix steelhead rod and I would like to put the decal that came with the blank on right above the hook keeper. On one of my other St. Croix rods I tried to put on the decal and it wound up looking pretty lousy as I had some bubbles under the decal. I tried to release the air with a small razor slit and it still didn't look "perfect." I have been hesistant to put on decals since.

If anybody could give me a play-by-play as to the best way to apply a decal I would really appreciate it.

Carson

[alaskan]

I like to put a thin layer or finish down first, then affter it's dry I'll apply the decal.
I get it lined up right where I want it, then peel the paper off the back and lay the decal in place. Next I'll take my burnishing tool and roll over the decal a few times to clear out and bubles. Make sure you start in the center and work your way out.
The last thing I'll do is take a new sharp razor blade and trim around the edges, cutting the edges at an anglle, but being careful not to press hard and cut into the blank. Peel off the extra and then apply another coat of finish.

[Bobbin for steel]

Folks have different ways. Here is what I try to do.
If you can hold the decal just by the edges so it is somewhat bowed down like a cylinder, line up the middle along the center of the rod where you want it to be and put it on so just the center part touches the rod at first. Then working from the center out roll the decal down around the blank smoothly. Maybe using the tip of your finger or something similar. Don't push hard, just work it down smooth so it lays flat.
If it is kind of flimsy and looks like it might be hard to hold in a cylinder shape I lay it on the blank with the backing still on to see how I want it to line up. Take note / mark where one of the edges goes and place a piece of masking tape along the blank so the edge of the tape can be used to "butt" the decal up against. Then carefully start to peel some of the backing from your decal along the edge you are going to butt up against the piece of tape you have to "mark your spot". Place the decal edge on the blank next to / up against your tape to line things up and using a different finger or thumb roll the decal into place by moving up and down along the blank as you work your way around the blank. The idea is to get the decal in place along one side and evenly roll it down towards the other side. Trying to smooth down a bubble is way harder than trying to avoid one. Be careful not to leave your finger print in the adhesive.
If you like the layer of finish down first or not. You may have to try it to see what you like. I kind of like the trim around the edges bit, may have to try that one.

[Karry Batson]

Steps to apply Decal

Step one, peel the backing off about a ½ inch and tack the decal were you would like it to be. Make sure you do not touch the sticky part of the decal because it will show your finger print.
Step two, peel the backing off as you tack the rest of the decal to the blank.
Step three work your way back and forth up the decal and then back down the decal until securely tacked to the blank. I use my finger to tack or my burnishing tool.
Step four, wipe the decal off very easily with alcohol by using a coffee filter. Let dry.
Step five, wrap your thread on each end of the decal to insure it does not lift on the edges when you apply your finish coat.
Step six, apply finish coat to the entire wrap and decal. I strongly recommend two thin coats 12-24 hours apart. This will allow you to cover any contaminated edges of the decal ware the first coat did not stick with the second coat.
Hope this helps let me know if I can be of any further assistance. Best Regards, Karry Batson