Down Riggers

[Loner]

Whats the preferred down rigger? Brand, Model? Sorry if this is a beat to death subject.

[dlm]

I use a Scotty electric, 30" boom loaded with synthetic line and love it. I also use a manual Scotty on the other side but will be changing to electric there also.

With both you let the ball down manually but I believe the Cannon electric lowers the ball itself. I have never used a Cannon so I really know nothing about them, except that I have never seen their reps at a sportsman show and Scotty people are always there and ready to help.

:twocents:

[fish-on-bend]

This has been discussed to death on all the forums, but I have 2 Cannon electrics. The new Cannon electrics are faster than the Scotty's, have beefier booms, and have auto-ball-stop at the water surface. I tried braided line (Scotty brand) and went back to steel. I use them at least 40 days a year.:twocents:

[pstutheit]

A downrigger is, in essence, a very simple piece of equipment that does a pretty simple job. I'd say go with the cheapest option that will get the job done for you. That said, whether a particular rigger will get "the job" done for you depends on what your "job" is. There's a billion variables to consider. How often will you be using them? What's your budget? What mounting options does your boat have? How deep will you be fishing? For what species?

[fish junky]

I have four electric Scotty's. Two 1106's out the sides and two 1101's out the back.

[dlm]

Fish-on-Bend

What problems did you have with the braided line on the downriggers? Is there something I should be looking out for?

[fish-on-bend]

I ran 1 steel and 1 braid for a year. Catch rate was slightly lower on braid(could have been a fluke) I found blow-back to be more rather than less on braid, braid frays and wears WAY to soon. I've never worn out steel. On the new Cannon electrics you must use steel cable to activate the auto-stop function. And I lost the familiar steel cable hummmmm:whistle:

[weekender]

Cannon electrics. Especially now that they have beefed them up so that all models use the heavy duty super fast motors. The rotating bases, heavy booms, high speed, auto stop, and ball hanging clip are all features I wouldn't want to be without.

[adobe wall]

I'll definitely be in the minority here- I've got a total of $100 in my three downriggers. Two are $49 (on sale) plastic ones from Fisherman's, one is a cut down boat rod with a sturgeon reel.

For trout and kokes they work fine and don't take up much space. I'd sure like to have some better ones, but can't justify it for kokes. They catch fish.

regards, aw

[fish-on-bend]

Good for you adobe wall. If it works don't fix it. However I routinely fish 100-200 feet deep for macks with 10 lb balls. I used manuals for years and I would not go back if I had to now.

[Chesapeake]

I've fished with downriggers from cheap hand crank models all the way up to the ones that plug into the depth finder and track the bottom.

For just trout a hand crank with 100 feet of cable that can handle an 8# ball will do.
For trout, and the occasional salmon trip a standard hand crank with 100 to 150 feet of cable and can handle a 10# ball will do the trick. If you plan on deep in the ocean then you will need 15 to 20# pancakes and electric downriggers to make it pleasant.

Brand doesnt seem to matter much to me. There all probably made in the same factory in china, and they all seem to work about the same. Things to think about are Price, hand or electric, capacity, mount system, hand crank style, brand.

With the hand cranks they have the vertical style and the horizontal style. With the vertical keep in mind the crank will be front on one and back on the other (plays a part in mounting options). The horizontal ones are less to think about when mounting, but have a different feel, and maybe arent as good for having a pole holder.

For general lake and occasional salmon the Cannon Lake trolls are hard to beat. You will probably want to ditch the clips they come with though and get the Scotty clips.

And look around, Scotty and Cannon arent the only companies making downriggers. Walker makes a decent one for trout and salmon thats a bit easier onthe pocket book.

[Splash]

Some thing else to consider is serviceability. Scotty has reps and dealers all around the northwest and Canada so parts are pretty easily obtained. I too have little knowedge of Cannon or any others so cannot speak about them.

[dbuechler]

I have 2 down riggers on my boat 1 manualand 1 electric Cannon. Can any one tell me when you use down riggers how much line or lure line you put out on a down rigger when in used? If you go down so 40' and then how much line do you attach out to the lure?? Do you need any weight on it? and do you still need FF or Dodgers?

[Cannon]

I am running (2) Penn manual w 2' booms on my boat. I would have had electric's if I could have justified the cost. I just spent more on other areas and eventually I will switch out to electrics. For fishing most of the lakes in the central Oregon area, manuals work fine. Butt, when you start going after mack's that 200' of cable can be a real pain in the drain. I primarily fish wickiup in the summer and they work excellent there. I have been doing real well at GP and DT on the West side of the hill. The things that are most important to me are; swivel mount, stainless cable, weight storage (it is a real bummer to pop off a ball in heavy seas), and my final is electric because that is where I will go next.

[tafish7]

I started out with Penn Manual Downriggers at first but then went to Penn Electrics and have been useing them for years. My Penns are 15 years old and still running strong. I have sent them back to the factory for repair and some replacement parts but they have been mostly trouble free.

I fish them real hard at Drano for Steelhead and Fall Chinook from mid July to mid September pulling plugs and spinners. I know a lot of people anchor up and bobber fish at Drano but I like to troll. There isn't anything better than to see that rod come off that downrigger release and see a nice summer steelhead come flying out of the water.

That's only a month or so away! :excited: I'm starting to get that feeling again! :D

[fish-on-bend]

I am running (2) Penn manual w 2' booms on my boat. I would have had electric's if I could have justified the cost. I just spent more on other areas and eventually I will switch out to electrics. For fishing most of the lakes in the central Oregon area, manuals work fine. Butt, when you start going after mack's that 200' of cable can be a real pain in the drain. I primarily fish wickiup in the summer and they work excellent there. I have been doing real well at GP and DT on the West side of the hill. The things that are most important to me are; swivel mount, stainless cable, weight storage (it is a real bummer to pop off a ball in heavy seas), and my final is electric because that is where I will go next.

With a name like Cannon I can't believe you fish with Penn downriggers.:D

[BigWaterBigFish]

I'll definitely be in the minority here- I've got a total of $100 in my three downriggers. Two are $49 (on sale) plastic ones from Fisherman's, one is a cut down boat rod with a sturgeon reel.

For trout and kokes they work fine and don't take up much space. I'd sure like to have some better ones, but can't justify it for kokes. They catch fish.

regards, aw

Man after my own heart ... always amazed at the percentage of fellows who answer on these things based on showing their pocketbook instead of practicality ... I rigging two manuals I inherited, trying not to skimp but do what I can - - - some of these threads would lead you to believe that unless you drop $600 per unit and have multiple units, well, you just aren't fishing.

[Chesapeake]

Man after my own heart ... always amazed at the percentage of fellows who answer on these things based on showing their pocketbook instead of practicality ... I rigging two manuals I inherited, trying not to skimp but do what I can - - - some of these threads would lead you to believe that unless you drop $600 per unit and have multiple units, well, you just aren't fishing.


Some would have you believe fishing is all about how much $$$$ you can drag behind the boat. If it makes you happy then it was money well spent!

[Cannon]

Man after my own heart ... always amazed at the percentage of fellows who answer on these things based on showing their pocketbook instead of practicality ... I rigging two manuals I inherited, trying not to skimp but do what I can - - - some of these threads would lead you to believe that unless you drop $600 per unit and have multiple units, well, you just aren't fishing.[/quote]

I have always tried to conserve on cash because, I never really had any and the kids were always needing shoes and such but now I have a little extra and spent in the right places it enhances just what I have been working my tail off for. I was up at Big Cliff earlier in the year and it was a cold miserable rainy day. I was out in my boat with the top up heater going and enjoying life. There were a couple of guys fishing on the bank that were shakin and shivering like a dog passing razor blades. when we fired up the grill...they got into their car and left. The point is that whatever we can do to enhance the experience without getting too gaudy, I say go for it!

[Cannon]

With a name like Cannon I can't believe you fish with Penn downriggers.:D
I wish they hadn't cut me out of the will:passout:

[latesvak]

Sorry And I Hope Not To Hijack Your Thread But I Just Aquired 2 Cannon's And I Really Like Them But The Line Seems To Scream When The Ball Is Down A Good 50-75 Feet . Does This Happen To Any One Else ..





Luke

[P-ride]

Sorry And I Hope Not To Hijack Your Thread But I Just Aquired 2 Cannon's And I Really Like Them But The Line Seems To Scream When The Ball Is Down A Good 50-75 Feet . Does This Happen To Any One Else ..





Luke

Yep its normal with the steel wire. Some people like it, some can't stand it. Personally i barely notice it anymore:D I've heard of people switching to high test braided line to eliminate the whine, people like braid, others dont...

[Cannon]

Yep its normal with the steel wire. Some people like it, some can't stand it. Personally i barely notice it anymore:D I've heard of people switching to high test braided line to eliminate the whine, people like braid, others dont...

whine, I tuned that out years ago.... kids, wife, boss.... deaf but a diving rod brings me back to the onlly reality that gets my blood boiling...fish on!

[Jedcraft]

I had Scotty manuals and they worked fine. Have Scotty electrics now and would not go back unless in a small boat and after macks or large fish where the bite is not real hot. For kokes or trout or ocean salmon(like that's gonna happen) over 50' the electrics are great but the manuals work fine. Just alot of cranking especially for the wife:D. Down to 50' or so I just use 3 - 4 - 5oz.lead. Gotta love that whine-worse in the salt.

[Chesapeake]

Soon you will learn to use the pitch of the wine to set your trolling speed.

[streamcatcher]

I'll definitely be in the minority here- I've got a total of $100 in my three downriggers. Two are $49 (on sale) plastic ones from Fisherman's, one is a cut down boat rod with a sturgeon reel.

For trout and kokes they work fine and don't take up much space. I'd sure like to have some better ones, but can't justify it for kokes. They catch fish.

regards, aw
:yeahthat: I have two of the cheapo Canon mini-riggers... for kokes a few times of year, they are the right solution for me.

SC

[weekender]

Man after my own heart ... always amazed at the percentage of fellows who answer on these things based on showing their pocketbook instead of practicality ... I rigging two manuals I inherited, trying not to skimp but do what I can - - - some of these threads would lead you to believe that unless you drop $600 per unit and have multiple units, well, you just aren't fishing.

I dont know about that... I've fished with cheap manuals and I've fished with Electrics. The electrics are an absolute dream by comparision. Two guys can fish two rods in one boat even fishing at depths of 150+ with hot fish. Try that will manuals. It's a little hard to clear your cable while your fighting a fish.

[Half fast Toyn]

I have 2 Scotty manual strongarms that have done me well the last 8 years. The best feature of these is you can lift the boom up and grab the weight or release without bending over the edge of the boat. My buddy has two cannon manuals and they are sweet cause it takes only one hand to let the lead down while the manual Scottys takes both hands. But everytime you have to hook the line onto the release you are hanging way out over the water.

Ive only had experience with electrics on one boat and they were cannon electrics. They were way handy and fast as we were going down over 100 ft. Again, you had to lean way out over the water to hook up the release.

[czechmate]

do you think 7 # balls are suitable for Green Peter?

[joemomma]

Sure, I use 8lb'ers, what a lb here or there!

[Splash]

Something I do to keep from having to lean out for the release clip is to get a wooden dowel and screw a tea-cup style hook into the end of it. Then you just reach out with the tool and hook the clip line and bring it to you. :)

[Roperguy]

"My buddy has two cannon manuals and they are sweet cause it takes only one hand to let the lead down while the manual Scottys takes both hands."


Before getting my electrics, I had only a manual Scotty, and I always dropped one handed by holding the brake and using thumb pressure on the rim (although too fast and you can burn your thumb). that's with an 8lb ball
Cheers
Maury