Polishing the sides of a Al. boat.

[Jason S]

Have any of you done it yourself? Thinking of buying a 7" polisher/sander and giving it a try myself.

Boat is my new last year NR Seahawk. Sides still look really great and still have the mill finish because of my analness. Just want that mirror shiney finish.

What else can you use besides one of the big 7"ers? What polish on the pads and what type of pad? How to protect it after polishing out? Will wax work (I know you are going to say Sharkshide but it seems to make the shine flat again from the example I have seen which is why I am asking about wax)? How do you keep from screwing up the bare aluminum edge to paint transition, will blue painters tape work?

[t_birder]

Hey Jason,
I've only done a few boats like yours. I mostly do pontoon boats here in my area. But the process is all the same.
I only use my Sharkhide products to do the job. I'm sure others have their favorites as I do, but that shouldn't change the process much.
STEP 1) I allways start a polish job with the Sharkhide Aluminum cleaner. It cleans the hull to bare metal, and tends to somewhat decrease the hardness of the surface. I've noticed it makes the pollish cut quicker.
STEP 2) To polish I use a Makita 7.5" variable speed buffer with a cuped edge wool bonnet, and the Sharkhide Metal Polish. I like my polish because it's a single step process. The abrasive particles start out rather large. This gives a quick enitial cut. With friction, the particles begin to break down into smaller, and smaller pieces. This eliminates the need for two and some times three steps to get to a swirl free shine. I do small sections at a time (12" to 18") at a time working from the top down. Remember to use the edge (outer 1/3 to 1/4) of the pad. Never lay it flat.
Once I've gone all the way around the boat, I'll do little touch ups to try to blend any blotchy area's I see. And finally, I take a new pad and working in a vertical pattern, I work down the length to do a final blend.
STEP 3) I apply the Sharkhide Metal protectant. But first you MUST scrub the hull down good with soft paper towels and LACQUER THINNER. Once I got the hull to the point no more black comes out of the metal, there's a white chalky film left behind. All I do is give the boat a light hand buff with a baby diaper and it's ready. Then I take a white cotton baby diaper, saturate it with Sharkhide Metal Protectant and swipe a coat on. Even though it's dry in a few seconds, I like to let it set a day or so to fully cure. Then I swipe a second coat on.
Now to hit a couple of your questions/concerns. If my customer won't spring to put new decals on his boat, I use the painters tape. I put a line of 3/4" right along the edge of the decal, then I follow with a line of 2" over that. I start out polishing by hand up against the tape, then move to the buffer. I allways make sure my pad is turning away from the tape so it doesn't try to lift it, or roll it away from the decal. Also try to not to dwell on that area with your buffer. The heat can dammage the decal.
Last but not least, any type of clear coat (including Sharkhide) over a show quality polish job will some what deminish the shine. Like any other applied finish in the world, Sharkhide can be adversely effected by a thousand different things. For instance on the one you looked at, was it properly cleaned before they applied? Did they use the correct cloth? Did they use the correct wiping pattern? Was the surface dry? If they tried to spray it on, did they use the right equipment, did they know how to spray. The possibilities go on for ever.
Go to the Sharkhide web site and look at the polish job pic's some of customers sent in. If you pay attention to the instructions, and call if you notice a problem, I promise you, you'll be happy with the results. And you'll only have to re apply once very few years, intead of wax every time out.
hope this helps a bit,
Clint

[Salemsled]

Jason,
I just polished my 21' Thunderjet, and it was quite the job. I had it to a mirror finish and then I did the Sharkhide. I was a little disappointed with the way it knocked some of the shine down.
The polishing really isn't that hard just time consuming. I run a truck shop and deal with a lot of aluminum products. Here are the steps I took in order.
1. regular wash to get the loose dirt.
2. Acid wash with Aluminum Cleaner I believe dupont product. PM me and I will give you the particulars.
Very similar to the sharkhide cleaner, have to keep it wet and dont let sit for to long.
3. Polish with 10" rotary buffer wool wheel. Product was Heavy Metal Polish both Green and Blue. Came out really nice, mirror finish.

This was where I debated. Sharkhide vs. Polish
I figured I would try the Sharkhide.

4.Lacquer Thinner bath lots of rags and shop towels.
5. Sprayed on Sharkhide 3 coats, but it did take down the shine factor a couple of notches. If it holds up I will be happy. If it lasts only a year I will stick with polish and wax.
6.If you go with the polish go with Pure Caranuba. Its easy to work and looks great. You just have to maintain it.
You might not have to go as extreme with the acid wash considering your boat is new. My boat is 2002 and I didn't want to take any chances with the Sharkhide not sticking so I followed the recommended prep to the letter.
I did however polish other parts of the boat without the acid prep and it came out sweet. But I did not Sharkhide those other areas either.
The Heavy Metal Polish is what the Aluminum Toolbox Mfgr. based in Vancouver WA uses. I did experiment with mothers and Maguires and they worked well also.
Heavy metal is more of a liquid base and easier to apply.

Hope this helps,
Jim

[fish_on]

I would have Greenbuttskunk apply a chrome vinyl to the sides and be done with it. Polishing is too much work to maintain, go vinyl.

[t_birder]

"Sprayed on Sharkhide 3 coats, but it did take down the shine factor a couple of notches. If it holds up I will be happy"

Hey there Jim,
From looking at the steps you took before you applied the Sharkhide (as long as you don't scrape or grind it off), you'll be protected for years.
As far as it reducing the shine goes, that's to be expected with any thing to a certain degree. The reason I tell folks to wipe it on in the instructions (on the can, on the shiped copy, and on my web site) is you get a much better finish than atempting to spray. The fast dry time of Sharkhide allows us to apply just about any where, and any time. But that same feature hurts the guy that's trying to spray it on. All to often the spray job will have a dry hazey look, or a thick, un even orange peel look, or both. On 99% of all my jobs where I've applied (wipe) Sharkhide over a polished finish, from a couple of feet or more, you can't tell there's any thing on it at all. The only thing I will say is noticeable is when you get right up to it and look just at the right angle, in just the right light, you can some times see a slight "rainbow effect" in a few spots. That's it.
Now don't get me wrong, IT IS POSSIBLE to spray it on with FANTASTIC results. And there can be certain advantages to doing so, but the chances of a guy picking up a gun and spraying a perfect job the first time is not very likely. Just ask magician01. He's spent countless hours practicing and probably sprayed his weight in Sharkhide before he's perfected his technique. He'll be the first to tell you there is quite a learning curve to applying it with a spray gun before you can get the results he gets.
And last but NOT least, I can't tell kolks enough, if you run into a question, or if something doesn't look right during an application, just call me. I put my phone numbers all over the place (can, instructions,web site etc.) so guys can reach me 24/7. I don't think youl find this kind of practice done by many other company owners. This should show folks how confident I am about my products, as well as how serious I am about you guys beeing 100% happy with them as well.
OK, climbing off my soap box now,
Clint

[Jason S]

So after talking with T-birder yesterday I decided to try his route. He gave me a shopping list and I got all the stuff yesterday. I guess I am just a do it myself type of person because I want to be able to do touch up and repairs as nessesary. Spent way too much on this boat and want it to look nice for years to come.

So since I decided to go the sharkshide and wipe on route I will put a pre picture on here. This was when I decided to give it a go with a powerball. Well that was just dumb. From the little section I did on the bow it looked great but with a drill and power ball that was about 8 hours of work. This time around I am using a Makita varialble speed with 9" lambs wool pads per T-birder. We'll see how it goes. I will post and honest reply one way or another as well as an honest opinion of how easy or hard it was to do along with how long it took me when I get done. I plan on doing it this weekend if the weather does not let me fish. Either way I will start the polish job this weekend and it will be finished next week.

So that I can be totally honest to the product do not worry T-birder I will not hesitate to call you with anything encountered or questions along the way. Thanks for the time you spent on the phone with me yesterday, just want to not screw it up.

Here are the pore pictures you can see the area I tried with the power ball. Note the boat is a almost exactly one year old boat. These pictures were taken last fall at the hiegth of fishing season.

http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/My_Seahwk.jpg

http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/Seahawk_2.jpg

[weekender]

The first three or four times I polished my sled I just used a electric 7" Craftsmans buffer and heavy metal brand polish (green). It was a project for sure.

The last time I did it, my buddy hooked me up with a pneumatic polisher. Amazing difference. I'd say it took roughly a quarter of the time and I finished it off better because I didnt get burnt out on it.

[fishkisser]

Are there any real advantages to keeping your hull polished on an aluminum boat other than apperance ???

[fish_on]

Are there any real advantages to keeping your hull polished on an aluminum boat other than apperance ???

No

[fishkisser]

I guess I'll just leave mine with a natural patina ...:D

[SeaSparrow]

I guess I'll just leave mine with a natural patina ...:D

Me too!! :wink:

[CRD4Liberty]

The natural patina is aluminum oxide, extremely hard, used as an abrasive.
The patina protects the aluminum from any further degradation.

[Salemsled]

"Sprayed on Sharkhide 3 coats, but it did take down the shine factor a couple of notches. If it holds up I will be happy"

Hey there Jim,
From looking at the steps you took before you applied the Sharkhide (as long as you don't scrape or grind it off), you'll be protected for years.
As far as it reducing the shine goes, that's to be expected with any thing to a certain degree. The reason I tell folks to wipe it on in the instructions (on the can, on the shiped copy, and on my web site) is you get a much better finish than atempting to spray. The fast dry time of Sharkhide allows us to apply just about any where, and any time. But that same feature hurts the guy that's trying to spray it on. All to often the spray job will have a dry hazey look, or a thick, un even orange peel look, or both. On 99% of all my jobs where I've applied (wipe) Sharkhide over a polished finish, from a couple of feet or more, you can't tell there's any thing on it at all. The only thing I will say is noticeable is when you get right up to it and look just at the right angle, in just the right light, you can some times see a slight "rainbow effect" in a few spots. That's it.
Now don't get me wrong, IT IS POSSIBLE to spray it on with FANTASTIC results. And there can be certain advantages to doing so, but the chances of a guy picking up a gun and spraying a perfect job the first time is not very likely. Just ask magician01. He's spent countless hours practicing and probably sprayed his weight in Sharkhide before he's perfected his technique. He'll be the first to tell you there is quite a learning curve to applying it with a spray gun before you can get the results he gets.
And last but NOT least, I can't tell kolks enough, if you run into a question, or if something doesn't look right during an application, just call me. I put my phone numbers all over the place (can, instructions,web site etc.) so guys can reach me 24/7. I don't think youl find this kind of practice done by many other company owners. This should show folks how confident I am about my products, as well as how serious I am about you guys beeing 100% happy with them as well.
OK, climbing off my soap box now,
Clint
Clint,
Not to talk down your product but I should have been a little more clear. When I stated I run a Truck Shop.
I run a company that manufactures and Installs truckbodies and hoists. We have been doing this for 35 years including all of the paint work. as for shooting any type of paint or clear coat we always practice with a new product.
As for sharkhide going on it was extremely easy to apply, and as for "laying down" it went on extreme flat. The Bottom line is that the sharkhide will and does knockdown the "mirror like effect".
However, if I do not have to Polish and wax as often to maintain the result I have just obtained with your product. I will be a happy customer.

The Jury is still out...
Verdict will be delivered after Fall Salmon out of Tillamook.

By the way Clint, it was the testimonies from this discussion board and all of your input, that persuaded me to give your product a try.

[olybirds]

bling bling:

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i49/olybirds/after2.jpg

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i49/olybirds/after3.jpg

[timinthegorge]

I would have Greenbuttskunk apply a chrome vinyl to the sides and be done with it. Polishing is too much work to maintain, go vinyl.

Are there any real advantages to keeping your hull polished on an aluminum boat other than apperance ???

No

Well said fish-on and fishkisser...... If your time is worth anything, vinyl is cheaper and easier, and looks better longer. My :twocents:

[t_birder]

Clint,
Not to talk down your product but I should have been a little more clear. When I stated I run a Truck Shop.
I run a company that manufactures and Installs truckbodies and hoists. We have been doing this for 35 years including all of the paint work. as for shooting any type of paint or clear coat we always practice with a new product.
As for sharkhide going on it was extremely easy to apply, and as for "laying down" it went on extreme flat. The Bottom line is that the sharkhide will and does knockdown the "mirror like effect".
However, if I do not have to Polish and wax as often to maintain the result I have just obtained with your product. I will be a happy customer.

The Jury is still out...
Verdict will be delivered after Fall Salmon out of Tillamook.

By the way Clint, it was the testimonies from this discussion board and all of your input, that persuaded me to give your product a try.

Hey there Salemsled,
Thanks a bunch for the details. It helps all of us the more folks share their experiences.
You mentioned that "if you didn't have to polish and wax as often you would be happy" (with Sharkhide). I can tell you that as long as you don't scratch, or scrape it off, you won't EVER have to polish the hull again. Your only regular maintainence is to wipe it down with a towell or chamois when you load it up at the end of the day. And once every couple of years or so you should swipe (or spray) another coat right over the original coat.
We all look forward to hearing from you once you've got some hours in the water.
Again, thanks a bunch,
Clint

[Salemsled]

Hey there Salemsled,
Thanks a bunch for the details. It helps all of us the more folks share their experiences.
You mentioned that "if you didn't have to polish and wax as often you would be happy" (with Sharkhide). I can tell you that as long as you don't scratch, or scrape it off, you won't EVER have to polish the hull again. Your only regular maintainence is to wipe it down with a towell or chamois when you load it up at the end of the day. And once every couple of years or so you should swipe (or spray) another coat right over the original coat.
We all look forward to hearing from you once you've got some hours in the water.
Again, thanks a bunch,
Clint
Right On Clint!
So far the Sharkhide has been doing great, it has only been a month.
Your right though, it does clean up very easy. I am very happy with the way it washes down after coming out of the river.
I will keep you posted after a few ocean runs this summer.
Jim

[huntnphool]

Have any of you done it yourself? Thinking of buying a 7" polisher/sander and giving it a try myself.

Boat is my new last year NR Seahawk. Sides still look really great and still have the mill finish because of my analness. Just want that mirror shiney finish.

What else can you use besides one of the big 7"ers? What polish on the pads and what type of pad? How to protect it after polishing out? Will wax work (I know you are going to say Sharkshide but it seems to make the shine flat again from the example I have seen which is why I am asking about wax)? How do you keep from screwing up the bare aluminum edge to paint transition, will blue painters tape work?

I do mine a couple times a year, sure makes it look nice but its a bit of work. I can do mine in a couple hours now, and that includes pulling it off the trailer to get behind the bunk rails.

[RiverMan]

Wow, that is beautiful phool. I am too lazy to do that to my own boat but I do appreciate seeing a boat that looks as nice as yours.

RM

[SilverBullets]

I polish the Smoker Craft about 3 times a year by hand using mothers aluminum polish... looks like a mirror! The hard water spots come off with a product called amaze that is generally used for removing water spots from tinted car windows.

[Jason S]

As an update I have been progressing it. I have completed one side and then got itchy and wanted to use it. Working on the second side now and want to redo the final on the other. Sunday should be finished and Sharkshided.

Sharkshide aluminum cleaner worked the best. tryed another brand because I ran out and it sucked compared to the Sharkshide stuff. As to thier polish. Well too much work using Mibro White and Green sticks on buffing wheel and it is faster with a better shine.

[tafish7]

WOW. Great looking finish on your boats. I going to have mine done as soon as the Wind River fishery is over in June. I'm going to have mine done by a professional so any of you Ifishers that have a business that does this send me a pm. I may have some business for.:)

Terry