Permaglos vs. Epoxy

[hooksetter1]

Just wondering the pros and cons of both. I just finished wrapping my first rod (6wt fly rod) and now I'm looking to complete the job. I don't have a drying motor/setup either. Also along these lines, is there any need to coat the blank as well as the windings? Thanks for any input.

[CRD4Liberty]

Permagloss is a thinner finish that takes multiple coats and dries very quickly. You can't leave the bottle open or it will harden on you very quickly. It is harder and will always be glass clear, but if enough is used, at close inspection it will have a light eggshell sheen to it. Won't yellow out like most epoxies in the sun.
You don't really need a turner with either finish. Just turn by hand 180 every few minutes till it sets up enough to not move, you can tell from the remaining finish you have after the application to get this info without touching the rod finish.
If the wraps aren't CP'd and you want the see through to the guide look, the epoxy finishes are a little better at this than Permagloss. Permagloss doesn't carry bubbles/microbubbles as readily as epoxy because it's thinner.
The blank doesn't need finish on it, in fact it doesn't need the finish that's on it now, it's just eye candy.

[hooksetter1]

Permagloss is a thinner finish that takes multiple coats and dries very quickly. You can't leave the bottle open or it will harden on you very quickly. It is harder and will always be glass clear, but if enough is used, at close inspection it will have a light eggshell sheen to it. Won't yellow out like most epoxies in the sun.
You don't really need a turner with either finish. Just turn by hand 180 every few minutes till it sets up enough to not move, you can tell from the remaining finish you have after the application to get this info without touching the rod finish.
If the wraps aren't CP'd and you want the see through to the guide look, the epoxy finishes are a little better at this than Permagloss. Permagloss doesn't carry bubbles/microbubbles as readily as epoxy because it's thinner.
The blank doesn't need finish on it, in fact it doesn't need the finish that's on it now, it's just eye candy.

Thanks!!! At this point I'm thinking permagloss will be it. I gotta say, this rodbuilding stuff is addictive. I'll be putting in an order to Angler's Workshop pretty soon here for a guide set to re-wrap an old Wright McGill Northwest Special who's guides are just too few to load the blank effectively.

Any other opinions out there on varnish/urethane vs. epoxy?

[Uncle Milty]

I've had very good luck with Trondak's LS Supreme

[Got One!]

You also have to put something, like varnish, over the top to protect the epoxy from direct sunlight or it will yellow and eventually become brittle.

[abufreak]

i have never heard of anyone putting varnish over epoxy. epoxy finishes are generally more flexible, and either will yellow over time.

[StickFish]

A little permagloss trick. Don't use the bottle it comes in to store and dispense. Once you let some air in the bottle the permagloss starts to setup.

Go to a craft store and get a small metal paint can. Put a hole in the bottom and seal it with a screw eye (like for hanging a cup) add you permagloss and seal the can up. The you need some permagloss, unscrew the screw eye and dribble some in a finish cup. Replace screw eye to re-seal.

[Got One!]

i have never heard of anyone putting varnish over epoxy. epoxy finishes are generally more flexible, and either will yellow over time.

Yup marine varnish over epoxy will prevent the UV rays from breaking down the epoxy. I'm sure there are better choices than varnish for a rod, but thats more of a wood boat building use. Always cover your epoxy or it will go bad on ya.

[StickFish]

Yup marine varnish over epoxy will prevent the UV rays from breaking down the epoxy. I'm sure there are better choices than varnish for a rod, but thats more of a wood boat building use. Always cover your epoxy or it will go bad on ya.

The faster the cure the easier it is to yellow. Most modern finishes like threadmasters have a UV shield and long 1 hour pot life so they won't yellow. Frankly I don't like threadmasters cause the slow cure brings out more bubbles from trapped air in the thread so I like a fast cure. Don't really care if it yellows a bit - I call it patina. Gets brittle - just makes it easier to re-wrap.

I might try something here. Diamondite over the thread, than recoat with threadmasters.

One thing I did learn at the rod workshop, thread finish isn't an epoxy. Yes it is a 2 part product, but is properly refered to as an Elastomer/Polymer. Wait till you see the new UV cure stuff that is coming.