Add a gimbal to a Tiger Stik ????????

[Skipper]

Does anyone know if it is practical to add a gimbal butt to an Ugly StikTiger BWC/AO-2201 length 7' line 20 -50 ????

I have three of these multi-purpose rods (halibut, tuna, salmon, sturgeon, and bottom fish). I use them mostly for halibut in 800 ft deep water. Since they do not have gimbals the hand holding the rod tires way before the cranking hand. I figured a gimbal would help. I like the Tiger 20 - 50, so if a gimbal can be added then I would not have to trade them out for rods with gimbals?

The other rod I was considering is an Okuma Tail Walker 7' Line 10 - 40. Any opinions on this?

Cheerio'
Skipper

[nobrownline]

I would think it would work. I have not done it but dont know why it wouldnt.

[Grady252]

Should be pretty easy..... cut off the plastic/rubber butt cap and use Rod Bond to install the new aluminum gimbal. You can use Drywal fiber mesh tape to warp around the butt end, so the gimbal barely slides on and off. Gob on the goop and slide on the new gimbal...... you want to make sure you remember to align the gimbal with the eyes.

Angler's workshop will have everything you need......

Good luck!

[StickFish]

One point on the dry wall tape. After getting enough to just let the gimbal slide on and off, mix you epoxy, unwrap the dry wall tape and add the epoxy to the blank in a thick layer all the way around, then wrap the tape back on over the rod bond. Make sure there is plenty of rod bond so that it is oozing through the tape. You want to avoid any voids. Hope that makes sense?

[Grady252]

One point on the dry wall tape. After getting enough to just let the gimbal slide on and off, mix you epoxy, unwrap the dry wall tape and add the epoxy to the blank in a thick layer all the way around, then wrap the tape back on over the rod bond. Make sure there is plenty of rod bond so that it is oozing through the tape. You want to avoid any voids. Hope that makes sense?

I might add one more tip to Stickfish's explanation..... I unwrap the drywall mesh tape until there is still about 1 1/2 wraps left, so it wont come off. Then I glob on the goop and wrap so it is oozing through the mesh..... if you take it all the way off it is tougher to get it to wrap. :twocents:

[Pete]

I don't remember which model UglyStik I have, but it has a gimbel with a cap. I doubt I paid more than about $50 for it. Maybe it would be easier to give in to the acquisition virus.

[StickFish]

I might add one more tip to Stickfish's explanation..... I unwrap the drywall mesh tape until there is still about 1 1/2 wraps left, so it wont come off. Then I glob on the goop and wrap so it is oozing through the mesh..... if you take it all the way off it is tougher to get it to wrap. :twocents:

Forgot that part I leave about 3/4 of a wrap, but the idea is no void, otherwise the bond is only as good as the tape

[Hook'd]

Here are three where I added gimbals to each. It was pretty straight forward. Sharp knife, tape, and Rod Bond epoxy. Good luck.

http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/100_2815.JPG

http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/100_2811.JPG

[CRD4Liberty]

Also rewrapping in a spiral wrap will take just about all the torque out of you rod and will replace it with inherent stability as soon as you put a bend in the rod.